Every day I get questions like 'which digital SLR camera to buy Nikon'. In this article I will share my experience on this matter. I have shot with almost all Nikon DSLRs with different lenses and in different conditions. Some things in choosing a camera for beginners may not be obvious, but believe me, in this article, I have thought out everything as much as possible and adjusted it as much as possible for the optimal and truthful options for choosing.
Popular Nikon cameras
To begin, I advise you to understand what is the camera forthen you need to determine the most suitable class of cameras that are suitable for the selected tasks.
All Nikon digital SLR cameras are very easily divided into 4 classes:
- Amateur cameras (entry level) - these cameras are aimed at people who just need to get a high-quality photo without delving into the subtleties and settings of the camera. These are the so-called cameras - 'pointed and took off '. Most often, amateur cameras are best suited to people who don't do photography professionally, they just want a good camera for home, leisure, travel, family, nature, etc.. The main requirements for such a camera are ease, simplicity in management, reasonable price.
- Advanced Amateur Cameras (Advanced) - these cameras have advanced functionality with a large number of specific settings that can be dealt with for a long time. These cameras are suitable for advanced amateurs who at least basic knowledge of camera settings either want to get a good potential for mastering photography skills. These cameras are noticeably more expensive, heavier, but still with the same intuitive controls as entry-level cameras.
- Professional cameras (cameras of the upper price range) - these cameras are created for people who are engaged in photography professionally, they know a lot about photography and are not afraid of manual settings. Typically, these cameras have a much better body, functionality and support additional extensions and capabilities. These cameras are not suitable for amateurs as do not have automatic shooting modes and have a specific professional management with a small number of tips.
- Flagship professional cameras (TOP cameras) - these are cameras with exorbitant workmanship and functionality, are needed exclusively for professional purposes. These are the cameras that everyone else is equal to, like a 'flagship'. These cameras are not suitable for beginners and hobbyists.
Nikon itself makes the distribution even easier, only professional and amateur cameras exist on the official Nikon website, but wikipedia also divides Nikon cameras into 4 levels. By the way, the words 'camera', 'camera' and 'camera' in this article, and in many others, mean the same thing. View a graphical distribution of cameras by category can here.
Basic separation of Nikon interchangeable lens cameras
For beginners and lovers I recommend entry-level Nikon amateur cameras.
A camera is a complex technical device, and technology does not stand still. It so happened that in my rating cameras from Nikon can be traced clear correlation of camera output - the newer the camera, the better it is. For 2017, following this logic and other details, the best amateur camera is Nikon D5600, this can be seen from the nameplate below.
When choosing a camera, I do not recommend paying much attention to the number of megapixels, in most cases a large number of megapixels is not in demand and even unnecessarily (these issues are covered in more detail here, here и here). Once again, in big letters - think about the fact that megapixels in amateur-grade DSLR cameras do not solve anything at all.
Each Nikon camera model is highlighted by a link that leads to its review, which describes all of its features.
The question of choice is very much limited by your budget.. I recommend buying a camera that fits into your budget based on the ratings below:
| Model | Rating | Exit time | The number of MP | Speed c / s | Point focus. | Video | Comment |
| D5600 | 1 | November 2015 | 24 | 5 (4) | 39 | Full HD 60p with autofocus | Very nice amateur cam |
| D5500 | 2 | January 2015 | 24 | 5 (4) | 39 | Full HD 60p with autofocus | A very good option for an amateur camera |
| D5300 | 3 | November 2013 | 24 | 5 (4) | 39 | Full HD 60p with autofocus | A very good option for an amateur camera |
| D5200 | 4 | November 2012 | 24 | 5 | 39 | Full HD 60i with autofocus | Great option for an amateur camera |
| D3300 | 5 | January 2014 | 24 | 5 | 11 | Full HD 60p with autofocus | Great option for an amateur camera |
| D3500 | 6 | August 2018 | 24 | 5 | 11 | Full HD 60p with autofocus | Great option for an amateur camera |
| D3400 | 7 | August 2016 | 24 | 5 | 11 | Full HD 60p with autofocus | Great option for an amateur camera |
| D5100 | 8 | April 2011 | 16,2 | 4 | 11 | Full HD 30p with autofocus | Good option with rotary display |
| D3200 | 9 | 24,2 | 4 | 11 | Full HD 30p with autofocus | Good option, no rotary display | |
| D3100 | 10 | December 2010 | 14,2 | 3 | 11 | Full HD 24fps with autofocus | A good option without a rotary display |
| D5000 | 11 | June 2009 | 12,3 | 4 | 11 | HD 720p, no autofocus | Bad video quality |
| D3000 | 12 | December 2009 | 10,2 | 3 | 11 | No | Old matrix, does not work well in dark conditions |
| D60 | 13 | March 2008 | 10,2 | 3 | 3 | No | Old matrix, does not work well in dark conditions, few focus points |
| D40x | 14 | May 2007 | 10,2 | 3 | 3 | No | Old matrix, does not work well in dark conditions, few focus points |
| D40 | 15 | December 2006 | 6,1 | 2,5 | 3 | No | Slow shooting speed, low ISO, few focus points |
| D50 | 16 | July 2005 | 6,1 | 2,5 | 5 | No | There is a focus motor. Very small display, very old camera |
All these cameras are cameras. Nikon DX (cameras with a cropped sensor format APS-C). All amateur cameras except Nikon D50, do not have a built-in focus motor and should use only lenses to achieve auto focus Nikon AF-S, AF-I, AF-Por lenses third party manufacturersthat have a built-in focus motor. Also, all amateur cameras except Nikon D50, do not have an additional monochrome display for quick setup of basic functions. And yet these cameras do not have an additional front selector (disk), which on more advanced models is located under the power button. Nor do they have buttons for previewing the depth of field, and their built-in flash cannot remotely control external flashes in automatic mode. These cameras do not have a mode high speed sync with flashes for shooting at extremely short excerpt. Most of these functions are not in demand for the amateur and are not particularly critical when choosing a camera.
If there are financial constraints, then good budget option there will be a camera Nikon D3500, which I recommend as Nikon's first DSLR for beginners and amateurs who don't plan on getting into photography in the future. Although she is ranked lower than D3300but it is still available for sale.
It's important: The era of SLR cameras is gone. Mirrorless cameras are all the rage right now. Nikon has a few mirrorless cropped cameras of the Nikon DX series.
Cameras Nikon Z DX (APS-C)
- Nikon z50 [October 2019]
- Nikon z50 ii [November 2024]
- Nikon Z fc [June 2021, black/silver]
- Nikon z30 [June 2022]
All Nikon DX lenses for mirrorless cameras with Nikon Z mount and APS-C sensor
- Nikon Nikkor ZDX 24 mm 1:1.7 [May 2023, BHphotovideo]
- Nikon Nikkor ZDX 12-28mm 1:3.5-5.6PZ VR [April 2023, BHphotovideo]
- Nikon Nikkor ZDX 16-50mm 1:3.5-6.3VR [October 2019, BHphotovideo]
- Nikon Nikkor ZDX 18-140mm 1:3.5-6.3VR [October 2021, BHphotovideo]
- Nikon Nikkor ZDX 50-250mm 1:4.5-6.3VR [October 2019, BHphotovideo]
For Nikon Z DX (APS-C), there are third-party autofocus lenses:
- felttrox: 13/1.4, 23/1.4, 25/1.7, 27 /1.2, 33/1.4, 35/1.7, 56/1.4, 56/1.7, 75 /1.2
- yongnuo: 11/1.8, 23/1.4, 33/1.4, 35/1.8, 50/1.8, 56/1.4
- SIRUI: 16/1.2, 23/1.2, 33/1.2, 56/1.2, 75/1.2, 40/T1.8 1.33X
- Sigma: 16/1.4, 30/1.4, 56/1.4
- TTArtisan: 23/1.8, 27/2.8, 35/1.8, 35 / 1.8 II, 56/1.8
- Meike: 33/1.4, 55/1.4
- Brightin Star: 50/1.4
- 7Artisans: 27/2.8
- AstrHori: 27/2.8
- Tamron: 18-300/3.5-6.3
Among advanced amateur SLR cameras, the best is full frame Nikon D780. If you don’t want to mess with the full frame, then Nikon is the best option among cropped cameras. D7500.
| Model | Rating | Exit time | The number of MP | Speed c / s | Point focus. | Video | Comment |
| D780 (FX) | 1 | January 2020 | 24,2 | 7 (12) | 51 | 4K 30p with autofocus | The best option for an advanced amateur camera. Full frame. |
| D750 (FX) | 2 | September 2014 | 24,3 | 6,5 | 51 | Full HD 60p with autofocus | A very good option for an advanced amateur camera. Full frame. |
| D610 (FX) | 3 | October 2013 | 24,3 | 6,0 | 39 | Full HD 30p with autofocus | A very good option for an advanced amateur camera. Full frame. |
| D600 (FX) | 4 | November 2012 | 24,3 | 5,5 | 39 | Full HD 30p with autofocus | A good option for an advanced amateur camera. Full frame. |
| D7500 | 5 | April 2017 | 20,2 | 8 | 51 | 4K auto focus | The best option for a cropped advanced amateur camera. |
| D7200 | 6 | March 2015 | 24,0 | 6 (7) | 51 | Full HD 30p (DX) and 60p (1.3x) with autofocus | A very good option for a cropped advanced amateur camera. |
| D7100 | 7 | February 2013 | 24,0 | 6 (7) | 51 | Full HD 30p (DX) and 60i (1.3x) with autofocus | A good option for a cropped advanced amateur camera. |
| D7000 | 8 | November 2010 | 16,2 | 6 | 39 | Full HD 24p with autofocus | A good option for a cropped camera |
| D90 | 9 | October 2008 | 12,3 | 4,5 | 11 | HD 720p, no autofocus | Good option, badly shoots video |
| D80 | 10 | September 2006 | 10,2 | 3 | 11 | No | Old camera with a good feature set |
| D70s | 11 | April 2005 | 6,1 | 3 | 5 | No | Morally obsolete camera, has a small display, few focus points |
| D70 | 12 | January 2004 | 6,1 | 3 | 5 | No | Morally obsolete camera, has a small display, few focus points |
Advanced amateur cameras Nikon D70, D70s, D80, D90, D7000, D7100, D7200, D7500 are cameras Nikon DX. Cameras Nikon D600, D610, D750, D780 are full-length, Nikon class FX. Unlike amateur cameras, all advanced amateur cameras have a built-in focus motor and can use non-motorized, sometimes cheaper type optics AF (optics AF S, AF-I, AF-P may also be suitable). These cameras have a monochrome display for quick setup of all basic functions, an additional selector under the shutter button, a depth of field preview button, and their built-in flash can remotely control other flashes automatically. All advanced amateur cameras except Nikon D70, D70s have very useful high speed sync function when using external flash units.
Attention: physical matrix size all-all Nikon DX cameras are the same. Physical matrix size all Nikon FX cameras, too, are the same. Matrix size Nikon FX is 2.25 times larger than Nikon DX. This is described in more detail in the section Fx / dx.
A good option for an advanced camera would be a model Nikon D7100, which I recommend as the first Nikon SLR camera for advanced users who want to get a huge amount of functionality for a not-so-large amount of money. There is also focus motor and nice control fast flash sync, a huge 3-inch display, the ability to control flashes through Nikon CLS, Live View mode and high-quality video shooting.
About the video: auto focus on all Nikon SLR cameras does not work well or not very well when shooting video. This is because the DSLR mechanism is not well adapted to focusing with the mirror up, which is required by video mode. Usually focusing when recording video occurs by contrast, and not using the camera's phase sensors. You need to be prepared for the fact that autofocus speed will sometimes be hundreds of times worse than on conventional compact cameras. If the speed and accuracy of focusing for video is very important, then I recommend considering buying mirrorless camera cameras Nikon Z6, Nikon Z7, Nikon z50 etc..
I specifically do not affect professional cameras such as Nikon D500, D300s, D5, D4s, D850, D810, Df - because there are very slippery moments among the choice of a professional line camera. For professionals, this will be interesting performance plate.
Mirrorless cameras with Nikon Z mount
Nikon now has full-frame mirrorless cameras Nikon Z6 and Nikon Z7, as well as a small fleet of lenses for them. With these cameras, you can use lenses from SLR cameras using the Nikon FTZ adapter. If there are a lot of problems with accurate information, it’s better to ask me about these cameras in the comments.
It's important: The era of SLR cameras is gone. Mirrorless cameras are all the rage right now.
Full frame Nikon Z mount cameras
- Nikon z5 [July 2020]
- Nikon Z5 II [April 2025]
- Nikon z6 [August 2018]
- Nikon z6 ii [October 2020]
- Nikon Z6 III [June 2024]
- Nikon z7 [August 2018]
- Nikon z7 ii [October 2020]
- Nikon z8 [May 2023]
- Nikon z9 [October 2021]
- Nikon Zf [September 2023]
List of all 'Nikon Nikkor Z' full-frame lenses for mirrorless cameras with Nikon Z mount
Fixes:
- Nikon Nikkor Z 20 mm 1:1.8 S [February 2020]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 24 mm 1:1.8 S [September 2019]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 26 mm 1:2.8 [January 2023]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 28 mm 1:2.8 [October 2021]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 28 mm 1:2.8 SE [June 2021]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 35 mm 1:1.8 S [August 2018]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 35 mm 1:1.4 [June 2024]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 35 mm 1:1.2 S [February 2025]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 40 mm 1:2 [September 2021]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 40 mm 1:2 SE [November 2022]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 50 mm 1:1.2 S [September 2020]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 50 mm 1:1.4 [September 2024]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 50 mm 1:1.8 S [August 2018]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 50 mm 1:2.8 MC [June 2021]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 58 mm 1:0.95 S Nod [October 2019]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 85 mm 1:1.2 S [January 2023]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 85 mm 1:1.8 S [July 2019]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 105 mm 1:2.8 S VR MC [June 2021]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 135 mm 1:1.8 S full [September 2023]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 400 mm 1:2.8 S VR TC [January 2022]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 400 mm 1:4.5 S VR [June 2022]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 600 mm 1:4 S VR TC [November 2022]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 600 mm 1:6.3 S VR PF [October 2023]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 800 mm 1:6.3 S VR PF [April 2022]
Zuma:
- Nikon Nikkor Z 14-24mm 1:2.8 S [September 2020]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 14-30mm 1:4 S [January 2019]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 17-28mm 1:2.8 [September 2022]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 24-50mm 1: 4-6.3 [July 2020]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 24-70mm 1:4 S [August 2018]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 24-70mm 1:2.8 S [February 2019]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 24-120mm 1:4 S [October 2021]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 24-200mm 1: 4-6.3 VR [February 2020]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 28-75mm 1:2.8 [December 2021]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 28-135mm 1:4 PZ POWER ZOOM [February 2025]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 28-400mm 1: 4-8 VR [March 2024]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 70-180mm 1:2.8 [June 2023]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 70-200mm 1:2.8 S VR [January 2020]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 100-400mm 1: 4.5-5.6 S VR [October 2021]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 180-600mm 1: 5.6-6.3 VR [June 2023]
Third party autofocus full-frame lenses for Nikon Z mount
- felttrox: 16/1.8, 20/2.8, 24/1.8, 28/1.8, 28/4.5, 35/1.8, 35/1.2, 40/2.5, 50/2, 50/1.8, 85/1.8
- Tamron: 90/2.8, 16-30/2.8, 28-75/2.8G2, 35-150/2-2.8, 50-400/4.5-6.3, 70-300/4.5-6.3, 150-500/5-6.7
- yongnuo: 35/2, 50/1.8, 85/1.8
- Meike: 35/2, 35 / 1.8, 50/1.8, 55/1.8, 85/1.8, 85 / 1.8 PRO, 85/1.4
- TTArtisan: 32/2.8, 75/2
- 7Artisans: 50/1.8, 85/1.8
- AstrHori: 85/1.8
- laowa: 10/2.8, 12/2.8
- Sirui: 85/1.4
- SG-image: 55/1.8
- Songraw: 50/1.2, 85/1.2
- Brightin star: 85/1.8
- Rollei: 85/1.8
Equipment
Usually the camera is sold separately from the lens, this is called bodyand sometimes the camera is sold with some kind of lens, this is called Kit, and the supplied lens is called 'whale lens'. Attention: take pictures with one camera body You can’t take pictures always with a lens.
Important: usually, if you buy a camera with a whale lens (Kit kit), then such a kit will cost less than buying a camera and lens separately.
Native (whale) lens
There are lenses really different for different purposes and for different tasks. Usually, the camera comes with a universal standard lens that can be used for basic photographic tasks. With a standard lens, you can shoot landscapes, and close-up objects, and portraits - almost anything. Usually the most common lens is Nikon 18-55 / 3.5-5.6 (one of 6 possible modifications) Instead of this lens, I highly recommend purchasing a kit with one of the following candidates:
- Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-105mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED SWM VR IF Aspherical
- Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-140mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED SWM VR IF Aspherical
- Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-200mm 1: 3.5-5.6GII ED SWM VR IF Aspherical
The above lenses are suitable for all Nikon DX cameras.. In online stores, the names of lenses can be specified differently, but they can be easily determined by the value of the focal length, for example, 18-105, 18-140, 18-200, etc.
Very important: choosing a lens is just as important as choosing a camera. The lens is sometimes so important that it is better to take a cheaper / simpler camera, but with a higher quality lens. Take my advice - instead of buying and using a camera with a lens Nikon 18-55 / 3.5-5.6 (or any modification of it), look for the recommended options mentioned above.
If you're on a budget, the best versatile, fast, professional Nikon DX lenses are Nikon 17-55mm f / 2.8G ED IF AF-S DX Nikkor и Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 16-80mm 1: 2.8-4E N ED VR Nano Crystal Coat SWM IF Aspherical. ask note to the fact that this is purely my recommendations and in each individual case the recommendations can be very different.
What do all these mean incomprehensible coded designations in the names of the lenses can take a look here.
List of all professional lenses for Nikon DX cameras can be found here (there are 4 of them).
The choice of other non-universal lenses requires a separate large article, but in addition to the full-time (universal whale) lens, I recommend getting a fast, discrete fixed lens. Such a lens does not know how to zoom, but it has a very high aperture. Huge aperture will allow you to shoot without problems in poor lighting conditions, control the depth of field (create blurred background in photos), create a bokeh effect, get brighter and more vibrant colors in photos. In good light, such a lens allows you to shoot at a very short shutter speed, thereby 'freezing' objects in motion.
Recommended list of fast fixed lenses:
- Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 35mm 1: 1.8G SWM Aspherical (for any Nikon DX cameras)
- Nikon AF-S Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.8G SWM Aspherical (for any cameras)
- Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor (for any cameras with a focus motor)
Usually the first such lens is the so-called 'half a ruble'(the last two in the list). The entire lineup of fifty kopecks for Nikon cameras can be found here.
You will find a complete list of all Nikon DX lenses. here.
Thoughts on optional external flash find in the section Which flash to choose for Nikon cameras?
How to check the camera upon purchase is described in the section 'Camera check'.
Recommendations for choosing a Canon camera can be found in the 'What kind of amateur Canon SLR camera to buy'.
Nikon or Canon? I have touched upon this question in a series of articles on this subject: time, two, three.
My experience
I had many Nikon cameras at my disposal: D700 (about 4 years) D90 (3 years), D80 (2 years), D40 (2 years), D200 (1 year), Nikon D70s (half a year) Nikon D70 (half a year) Nikon D100 (half a year) Canon 350D (2 years), Canon 450D (year), Canon 300D (half a year), Canon EOS 5D (1 year), Fujifilm FinePix S5 Pro (about a year) Nikon AF N8008s (2 years), many cameras of other brands (like Sony a7). Due to the fact that I am writing camera reviews and work professional photographer, then in my hands I held and shot almost all models of Nikon and Canon SLR cameras.
Over the past 2-3 years, everything orders I shoot on Nikon D700 or Nikon D610 (I take from friends). Also i like Sony a7which I use for the needs of this site. For home in 2015, I bought myself Nikon D40which I love very much for a pleasant color performance. In 2017, I bought and Nikon D70s, which is not a pity to use in any conditions, the gallery of images from this camera is located just below. In 2018, in fact, I got a gift Nikon D100, pictures from her can be looked here. I do not hesitate to shoot on old cameras, as I know for sure that the final result depends more on other factors (described here).
From personal experience I can add that choosing a camera is not an easy matter, it is especially difficult to choose the first camera, then everything becomes simpler and choosing something else becomes very, very simple. Take my advice - don't chase megapixels, they practically don't solve anything. I wish everyone to find exactly 'their very best camera', and also remember that important how to take pictures, but not by what means.
Alternative versions at the lowest price
If you have a urge to take pictures in your blood, and the budget for the purchase of an SLR camera is very limited, I recommend looking in the direction of used cameras. In used cameras are nothing wrong. For example, for only $ 100 can buy used Nikon D40 (or D50, or D70, or D70s, or D80) with a whale lens Nikon 18-55mm f / 3.5-5.6GII ED AF-S DX Nikkor. Even such an old DSLR will in many ways be better than some modern digital soap dishes and even advanced cameras with interchangeable lenses, such as Nikon 1 J1.
Nikon D40 body on the secondary market can be found for 60-100 ye - this is one of the cheapest SLR cameras of all time. For 80-100 USD you can find a pretty super-zoom to it Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-135m 1: 3.5-5.6G ED SWM IF Aspherical or Nikon AF-S Nikkor 18-70mm 1: 3.5-4.5G ED DX SWM IF Aspherical and shoot for your own pleasure.
My practice has shown that The following models may be the cheapest and most functional.:
- cameras with a focus motor: Nikon D200, Nikon D80, Nikon D70s, Nikon D70, Nikon D50, Nikon D100
- cameras without focus motor Nikon D3000, Nikon D60, Nikon D40x, Nikon D40
- focus motor lenses: universal zoom lens Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-135m 1: 3.5-5.6G ED SWM IF Aspherical, versatile zoom lens Nikon AF-S Nikkor 18-70mm 1: 3.5-4.5G ED DX SWM IF Aspherical, fast creative fixed lens YONGNUO 50mm 1: 1.8 (YN50mm F1.8N for Nikon cameras), fast, versatile fixed lens YONGNUO 35mm 1: 2 (YN35mm F2N for Nikon cameras)
- lens without focus motor (only suitable for cameras with focus motor) - fast creative prime lens Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor (any of the versions: MKI 165g, MKI 210g, MKII-MIJ, MKII N.J., MKII MIC, MKIII)
On here to place a catering order. you can see my picture gallery obtained with a fairly old camera Nikon D70 and a fast fifty-fifty lens Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8 AF Nikkor (MKII, Nikon JAPAN).
All pictures were taken with Nikon AF Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.8, MKII, NJ (NIKON JAPAN) и Nikon D70. Enlarge Image or go to large format photo gallery.
On here to place a catering order. You can see my gallery of pictures obtained with the help of an old man Nikon D100 (Nikon's first digital SLR camera in a classic case) paired with a fast fifty-pound lens Nikon AF Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.8 (MKII, MADE IN CHINA).
All pictures were taken with Nikon AF Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.8, MKII version, MIC (MADE IN CHINA) и Nikon D100. Enlarge Image or go to the gallery with large format photographs.
Imagine what can be removed on a better modern technology?
You will find many examples of inexpensive autofocus photo equipment among my galleries. here.
You can still get old soviet fast lens, such as MS Helios-81H 2/50 or any other inexpensive manual lenssuch as Nikon Nikkor-SC Auto 1: 1.4 f = 50mm и study just super-awesome shots, however, will have to lose auto focus.
Well, if you are a real ninja photographer and want to use some unusually stunning DSLR sword for a small amount of money, then I highly recommend that you look into my article Legends go to battle.
And that's not all, if you really want to shoot on full camera, then you can organize such a pleasure for yourself for just $ 240. How? Read in the section 'Full Frame for $ 240'.
If you’re not comfortable with Nikon amateur cameras, you can take a look a complete list of all Nikon Central Control Unitswhere you can find the top Nikon D1 professional cameras, D1h, D1x, D2h, D2x, D2hs, D2xs, D3, D3s, D3x, D4, D4s, D5, and top-tier cameras Nikon D100, D200, D300, D300s, D500, D700, D800,D800E, D810, D810a, D850. By the way, Nikon has also created a very interesting camera with a retro body design and without the ability to shoot video - Nikon DF :).
Results
Progress does not stand still, basically, the newer the camera, the better it is, but even with relatively old SLR cameras you can get wonderful image quality, since the photo quality affects not only the camera.
To choose the best option, just decide on the budget and use my rating of cameras in the plate.
I am constantly updating and adding to this article. This article was last edited on February 29, 2024.
I don’t understand anything and I was lost in the choice!
Just tell me the budget that you are willing to spend on the camera and the purpose of buying the camera (what you will shoot for and in what) in the comments and they will tell you the best option. Anyway, ask any of your questions in the comments under this article (the site does NOT require absolutely no registration). You can consult me directly on these contacts.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval.
Good evening everyone! Tell me, what kind of full-frame camera () lens) should I buy a Nikon to achieve such bokeh? if you take the kit to a minimum (I'm talking about the real costs of the majority. so you can also recommend a lens for 500 thousand rubles.)))
I'm wildly sorry, but where did you see the bokeh here?
any. this - you can even get an inexpensive soap
Again holivshchiki ran, and you will not get off after all!
All forums are essentially holivar or demagogy.
Yarkiy, if you open the photo and pay attention to the focus only on the face (and the right hand), here I have a question, on which camera can this be achieved?
Special thanks I want to say to the author, your site is regularly viewed and not the first year, we read your articles with interest.
Any APS / APS-C camera.
A lens with a FF of 50mm or more with an aperture of 1 / 1.8 - 1/2 - approx.
Thank you
Vladimir, the photo is very small, maybe on your computer its size is much larger and you see something that we don’t see. But in the example that you brought, everything looks sharp enough, even the shadows from the wiring of the garland on the wall do not look blurry. You need to upload a larger photo, or give a more illustrative example.
Thank you! I’ve already thought that the quality of the photo here is low, but it was taken from an Internet, so I don’t have a larger photo.
Then look for another example, because such a picture can also be taken with the phone. Or reveal the essence of the question, there is a feeling that you will need a more extensive answer. Something on the topic of assistance in acquiring the first DSLR.
at the moment I have a nikon d7100, and by clicking on 50, I understand that I lack the blur (at 1/8), or the picture is too "cropped" or something, so I wanted to switch to a full-frame camera. and I want to immediately buy a less decent device with a good lens. I thought d600, but his reviews are embarrassing (frequent marriage and all that), and d610 is already expensive for me (not enough money for a lens), so I already look at the canon. and I don't know where to stop, so I turned to you
The more FR, the more 'blur', at the same aperture, because DOF less.
For example, if you take Nikon 70-300 4.5-5.6VR and Jupiter-37a (FR = 135 f / 3.5), then at 70mm@f/4.5 the blur will be less than on Jupiter 135mm with the same aperture.
And the D7100 is a great device.
About how to shoot with a blurry background on the network is just an incredible amount of information, it is not difficult to find. I also have 7100 so far and for my inquiries it suffices with a head. Well, in a nutshell, to get more blur by 50mm, it is not necessary to shoot only at f1.8, just move the model away from the background and you will have a blurred background, and the depth of field can be reduced to bring the lens closer to the model.
Here is 50mm 1.8 g
the photo is at your height., but the question is that you have one head, but I would like with the body, but the blur is the same!
but if you repeat with d7100 and take again 50, the same thing will not work. all the same, your legs will be in focus, but here are blurred
It seems to me that this girl is not a fifty dollars shot. But you must understand how DOF works. Here's an online sharpen depth calculator http://www.dikovsky.ru/fotoshkola/kalkulyator-grip/
I think you’ll figure it out.
Well, for clarity, shemka.
So there is an assumption than this girl was filmed? Which camera / lens row? I specifically need an answer. in order to achieve not small cropped photos as they are obtained at 7100 or here for a guy (Peter Sh.) - it's all NOT THAT, but with a similar blur (like a photo with a girl - where there are hands, legs, etc. and not just a face) , just an answer camera and lens? (what)
I think this is something a little wider than 35mm, maybe 28mm on any cropped camera.
Vladimir, I’ll tell you so, until you learn how to shoot, no camera, whether full-frame or crop or medium format, will replace your ability to take pictures.
I’m glad an excellent site, maybe even the best in RuNet, there are many articles for self-training. In addition, YouTube has a huge amount of training material.
In the West, almost none of this exists, people are forced to pay a lot of money for the opportunity to study photography.
Here I give you an example, shot on a Nikon D7000 lens 35mm f1.8g. If this does not suit you, then I don’t know.
There seems to be a blur here. 50mm f / 1.4G, f / 2.5. More can be done if necessary. So what's the problem?
Especially for you:
Nikon D5100
Nikkor 50mm @ f / 1.4G
The distance between the toys is about 1 meter.
The blur, in my opinion, is even greater than in the photo with a pregnant girl.
From processing - development in ACR, alignment of images (so that they are the same, removed from hand), small cropping (~ 5%), reduction in size, data imprinting.
anonymous !, you are right there are many and everywhere, and in fact they only clever, but in fact there is little travel., such a battle of knowledge. ask a question and away we go, but nothing
Thanks to everyone. got it. went to practice
brighty
I have no complaints. The article is not mine, I reposted it because, a little tired of useless disputes. You are right a little wanted to run into “the site”, it became somewhat empty, it may seem, but before it seemed to be more interesting.
Almost every day I read it for almost 2 years.
Maybe I'm wrong, then please be so sorry!
The site is undergoing serious work.
Please advise which camera to take? 7200, 3300 7100 or 5500? The set includes 2 lises 18-55 and 55-200 and 55-300 for 7200. The problem is that you still have to buy 35 f1.8 ... Is it worth buying a set or a base just and buy more lenses? Now I have a D40 with 2 lenses 35-55 and 55-200
Anna, why doesn't the d40 suit you? Buy 35tku to it, and, perhaps, you will understand that it’s not the camera.
Maybe you are right! I have a 40-55mm lens for the D200, but I wanted to be more professional, since I'm studying now and I want to make good portraits with a minimum of photoshop and light. By the way, to 7200 it may not be necessary to buy an additional flash, but on the D40 it is definitely necessary, since everything turns out to be contrasting.
Maybe you are right! I have a 40-55mm lens for the D200, but I wanted to be more professional, since I'm studying now and I want to make good portraits with a minimum of photoshop and light. By the way, to 7200 it may not be necessary to buy an additional flash, but on the D40 it is definitely necessary, since everything turns out to be contrasting.
Properly working in Photoshop is just a virtue, but not a disadvantage. Of the cameras you listed, the one that is newer is better, namely the d7200. It’s very easy to give such advice, but I’ll ask you, why not think about the full frame? 610 for example, a very good camera and the cheapest of the FF.
Do you think the 610 has more advantages over the D7200?
With lenses, I decided ... buy 35 Nikon 1.8 and Tamron SP AF 17-50mm f / 2.8.
But I can't figure it out with the camera itself ...
The Tamron you specified on the full frame will not work normally, it is designed for crop. For FF, something like 24-70 would be an adequate replacement
Actually, all the optics you specified are designed for crop. Nikon 35mm can be on the crop, and on the FF.
That is, when buying an FF carcass, you will have to think about replacing the optics.
Yes, I’m crop and I want 7200. And about Nikon 750 I’m just thinking.
I did not talk about the benefits, although they are, however, obvious. Both cameras are amateurish, but the 610 is still full-frame. And Vv is right, optics for DX (i.e. crop) will not be useful to you, although you can use it, but this is purely masochism. But full-frame optics were simply filled up with all sorts of different ones, much more than crop, and there are quite cheap ones if you choose from the old ones, here on the site Arkady has a lot of reviews on them.
Oh, as far as I know, full-frame optics are much more expensive, at least what I see on Amazon. Here are the basics of 7200 you can buy somewhere for $ 1,000, but the licks are all my listed about Nikon 35mm f / 1.8G AF-S DX Lens ($ 197),
Nikon 50mm f / 1.8D AF Nikkor Lens ($ 114),
Tamron SP AF 17-50mm F / 2.8 XR Di-II ($ 333)
I use the 750th year, davad Arkady for review.
In general, I am happy as an elephant. One drawback is that autofocus does not work well when shooting video.
Well, the main disadvantage, but not the cameras anymore - these are the crooked hands of the movable pad between the camera and the ground (((
Happy New Year everyone!!!
Nikon has real problems with the video, I wrote about it https://radojuva.com.ua/2014/11/aperture-during-video-nikon-and-angry-haruhi/
Hello! Sorry for this possibly strange or just stupid question. The problem is this: there is a lens with a motor and a carcass with a “screwdriver”, the question is: how will they work together?
The focus motor that is in the camera will be turned off. Focusing will be carried out by a motor built into the lens. It will always be like this, with any lenses with a built-in motor and on any cameras with a built-in motor.
Thank you!
The screwdriver is resting, the motor in the lens is buzzing.
Thank you!
Arkady, thanks for your tremendous work.
I ask for your advice: I am facing the choice of a full-frame camera, there is an option I can not decide - I really want to hear your opinion. Nikon d3 (mileage 13.800, sold by a good friend) 80 thousand rubles VS Nikon df (new) 100 thousand rubles.
Thank you in advance.
Mileage 13.800 - What after replacing the shutter? Somehow I can't believe in such a mileage at the top-end device.
Hello, the real run is verified. What can you say about the fact that he stood for a long time, what could be the consequences?
Thank you in advance!
Nothing has changed.
Hello! I decided on the choice of the camera - this is the Nikon d7100, but I can’t decide on the lens, there are two options at great prices, 18-55 + 70-300 mm, or from 18-105 mm. Thanks in advance!
if it’s 70-300 VR, then I would prefer the first option. 18-55 will be as a wide-angle lens, and 70-300 as a good telephoto.
A moot point, but still. It is believed that Nikon is more friendly, in terms of additional amenities and the presence of pleasant trifles at the camera, to the user.
Good afternoon, Arkady, I have a Nikon D40x carcass and AF-S Nikkor 50mm 1.8G and AF-S DX Nikkor 18-140mm 3.5-5.6G ED VR lenses.
I bought the carcass already in 2008 (then with a whale 18-55, which I accidentally broke) "for home and travel", and like any newbie I clicked on cars and scenes, but for a long time I have been shooting only in M, for some time I have there was enough, an excellent camera, but now there is an acute shortage of “more control buttons on the body”, a second screen, focusing points, etc. At first, my choice fell on the D7000, the device meets all my requirements. But since the model is rather outdated, I began to consider the D7100, but it would be necessary to save some money for it. I want to give the D40x to my husband to keep him busy while walking while she is busy filming, maybe he will also be involved and there will be a common hobby. I read articles about the choice of a camera, the battle of pixels, about both models, but the question remains open. 7000 rst now in Moscow can be found for 30-35 thousand, 7100 45-50, i.e. the difference is half the cost of the first. What advice would you give me?
7100 of course, you will not be mistaken, and even better 7200, but it is more expensive.
It’s clear that it’s better who would argue, and even better, the D750 and even better .. it’s clear that there will always be something better. The question is whether I need what is better. As I understand it, the 7100 does not have a low-pass filter, unlike the 7000? The speed is higher (for me this is not an important criterion at all, I almost never use serial shooting, I don’t shoot moving objects) Matrix size? Yes, and 10mpix on the D40x was enough for me. And I think 16 to 7000 is enough. Why else is it worth taking 7100?
It's not about megapixels, in my opinion today it is generally pointless to talk about them, and computers are quite powerful and huge hard disks.
Well, just for the senses, plus a little for the functions, I had to shoot on both, both are good, but 7100 is better. They wanted advice, so here is advice to you.
So I say that pixels are not a reason to choose 7100. I'm trying to get a reasoned answer why 7100. Where do these sensations come from?) Picture quality? Focus points? Any newer model of something, better than the previous one in terms of functionality, is understandable, otherwise how could companies make money? For me, it makes a difference to spend 35 sput on a camera or 50. I want to know these "better" are these 15 sput?
And in what genres do you like to shoot?
Landscape. I understand that in 7100 the matrix is newer, the af system is better, the automation algorithms are better. But to me, as a beginner, a lover does not understand this when shooting these same landscapes. Automation algorithms are generally vague for me. The af system, already more understandable, is probably not so relevant for landscapes. Matrix .. well, newer and?
Well, you need 7100! You can’t imagine what detail at 24mp, I know it well, I shot it at 5100 for a long time, it has the same matrix with 7000.
If you had cats or kids there, you snapped all kindness at home, then yes, 7000 just right, even more preferably, less micro-lubricants when you are trying to keep up with fast creatures. But on the landscape and especially on the macro, 24mp without an AA filter, I’ll tell you, the difference is still very noticeable. And what kind of printout you can then make mmmmm download. 7100 Maria! And then just say thank you.
Yeah, by the way, why not 5300? Cheaper than 7100, newer and the matrix is the same, (well, almost). True, there are no such goodies as a second tuning wheel, an additional LCD screen, a 100% viewfinder, but still, a very decent camera.
2 of several reasons why I want to change the carcass is the second screen and the presence of a second wheel :) Therefore, the 5300 does not suit me exactly. Yes, and in the landscapes I don’t want any branch to fit into the boundless percent of the viewfinder)
I actually persuaded myself already at 7100, I just wanted to back up my arguments with outside advice) Thank you for that.
yarkiy apparently forgot to add that "mmmmmmm you swing" is achieved ONLY with a very good wide-angle lens. Which one exactly? Fix or zoom? The choice is not particularly rich…. but the money will be worth it. No, 18-140 is not bad either, but… the taste comes in the process….
It's a deal then. :)
Yes, I forgot to add. 18-55
Here are another 18-55. Unfortunately, the restriction of files on the site does not allow to evaluate the image in full size.
yarkiy, can you link to full-size RAW footage, not touched by the artist's hand? The photos are beautiful; - without any doubt…. But you will have to tell your girlfriend Maria where to find such a landscape in February and how to shoot a landscape with Nikkor 105 f2.8G, what stack shooting is and how all this is “cooked” in Photoshop. Otherwise, a naive girlish soul will really think that 18-55 at the short end does not have any “soap” or geometric distortions around the edge, which can be forgiven in one shot like this ... and that's it.
I apologize, I didn’t really pay attention to the exip, everything was in a heap all in one folder. The first picture actually turned out to be a 105mm macro.
But the second one is exactly 18mm f5.6, 1/2000, ISO 100.
The third one is also 18-55, which with a button, 18mm, Ф7.1, 1/1000 ISO 100.
Well, and another 18mm f7.1, 1/1000, ISO 100. On the go, it was removed from the car window, so there is micro-grease on the ground.
All photographs were taken in one shot, without stacking, (I only use it in macro), developed in ACR and a shallow color correction in Lab. Of course, she starred in RAW.
I can easily assure the naive female soul that geometric distortions are first corrected by the 7100 camera itself, and if this is not enough, but sometimes not enough, then choosing the right one in the lens profiles, the geometric distortions disappear themselves as if by magic. And the soap around the edges is practically absent.
And finally, the ability to competently and correctly “cook” in Photoshop is today an integral part of the life and work of a photographer. And the one who says that this is not so, simply does not know Photoshop, does not know how to work in it and is afraid of it, trying to naively justify himself with love for the natural and the natural.
The ability to use the "development" correctly is only a plus without a doubt. By the way, the girl may not quite understand (the second photo with cereals and flowers) is the end of March, but it “smells” like the end of July…. And then the depth of field “from laces to Saturn”; - strong crop in the center? The second and third photos were taken at intervals of 10 minutes; - cloudy on the first, but clear on the second…. miracles are simple. I'm afraid Maria will doubt.
You feel a certain restlessness in you, just with the spinal cord I feel the following question - "-With a tape recorder did I come to Shpak?" :))
I hasten to reassure you, the pictures were taken at different times of the year, moreover, in different years. And the date is the processing time and not the shooting time. For example, the last one in the desert was shot on December 31, i.e. 3 weeks ago, and processed on January 15.
Yes, unfortunately I can’t give a link to full-size files, because I did not merge them into the network.
And it's enough to “take me out into the open”, have you ever filmed a whale.
Come on, yarkiy don’t be angry. I absolutely didn’t want to offend you; - I respect you. Still, I wanted to "dilute" on RAW in order to conduct a more reasoned dialogue. But since they have not survived, there is nothing to talk about. To be honest, it never occurred to the D7100 to wind up 18-55 ... It's like a Ferrari rubber from a Zaporozhets. Although ... maybe I'm wrong about something. So I want a little bit about "restlessness". If KIT 18-55 is so gorgeous, then why the hell am I dreaming about 14-24 f2.8? Probably I will never be able to buy, but ... it's a shame! This is what the 7100 is capable of "revealing" glass, especially in a landscape, so it really is. And you don't need to merge into the network ... just a link https://yadi.sk/d/sYjW9S9MnJRQN per folder; - by the way, some photos were taken on Nikkor 28 1.8 on the open (who cares if).
Well, first of all, I'm not angry, there's nothing, and secondly, I also dream about 14-24, so what? Dreams are still dreams, but I want to shoot. So I tried to get out with the help of 18-55, by the way, I bought it relatively recently, just after Arkady's video about him. I won't sing praises to him, a whale is a whale, but it still works. This is the first 18-55 which does not rotate the front lens when focusing and it is very convenient to use a polaric. And although this glass has practically no "pattern", but it is very sharp. I sometimes even use it in macro, it turns out a great close-up.
And I didn’t say about the sources that they weren’t preserved, they’re just stored at home on the hard drives, I prefer not to flood them anywhere.
And my dreams provoked me to buy Samyang 14 F2.8 to realize how much “I need it?” this is a focal ... There are some peculiarities. Here I am slowly mastering.
The girl is far from naive) And she takes off for quite some time) And she doesn’t have any illusions)
By the way, you can congratulate her on your purchase of the D7100)
Congratulations to Maria's girlfriend on purchasing the D7100 !!! As it turned out, you are not naive, but ... very gullible. Did the disappointment come right after the first frames? What was the lens? Share your impressions, do not be shy.
And what do you think my credulity is expressed in? When buying, I, to a greater extent, relied on my own judgment. Disappointment did not come, I am extremely pleased with the camera. She gave everything that I needed, and even a little more. The lenses are the same as they were.
Smart girl! DO NOT listen to those who hate D7100 (none of them held it in their hands, or hands like Mr. Trehsotkovich, where the finger is "in the nose", then in the gills or somewhere else strives to climb). Great camera. Very soon you will be dreaming of the Sigma 35 F1.4 Art series. Just a "freaky" bundle with the D7100. Arkady has a review of this lens. Recommend.
I confirm.
Maria! As an example, a group photo (I had to cut the quality down a lot) with a quiz "whose watch?" and "where are the leaves from?" The quality of the leaves and watches did not deteriorate naturally. Winners await…. and nothing awaits, except envy that he does not have the Sigma 35 F1.4 Art yet. I can also on RAW, of course, a reference, if that.
Strange, there are no such prices on the market for the new D7000, about 10 tyr more expensive. and some muddy offices remained, who else have them
The market is not a panacea) For example, the store where I took both lenses on the market is not there, but both rst lenses (the CH check on the Nikon website confirmed) and the prices there are quite reasonable.
And from the fact that there are 3 points on the market, rst ~ 35tyr is. Can you watch fixes?
oh, that is not fixes but whales)
Body 39-45, KIT from 46 tyr
OPS, it turns out that my chosen region is affected, in Moscow it looks differently)
I thought, where do you live, that your prices are a good order higher than in Moscow
28 500 rub. Nikon D7000 Body Camera Market
29 000 RUB Nikon D7000 Body
29 150 RUB SLR camera Nikon D7000 Body Camerastar.ru
29 400 rub. Nikon D7000 Body Pro-Zoom.ru Camera
31 550 rub. Nikon D7000 Body ropal.biz
32 900 rub. Nikon D7000 Body BmFoto
33 500 rub. Nikon D7000 Body X-Reality.ru SLR Camera
33 700 rub Nikon D7000 Body ELECTROGOR camera
33 990 RUB Nikon D7000 Body G-PRO.RU camera
Barnaul. In fact, prices differ only because they are leftovers
That's it, I bought Nikon D7100 ... for $ 610. Trying to remove the flash ... before the flash ... who knows, only if I turn off the porthole it won't be there? Children especially don't like it when the porthole lights up before focusing.
autofocus highlight? it turns off in the menu
Formulate the question more precisely. “Who stood on whom?” :)
If you just remove the backlight, autofocus assistant, then this is the menu, item A7.
Well, yes, I turned off the backlight, but will it focus in a poorly lit room? Pre-flush many people get on their nerves.
Another question ... what kind of lis does anyone use for a portrait? I have always considered 35mm f 1.8 to be the best, and many people use 50-300 2.8 zoom and say that only zoom is necessary to shoot portraits ...
Let's start with the release date. Progress does not stand still, and most often it makes no sense to buy the model that your friends recommended to you as having served faithfully for more than one year. Pay attention to the cameras of 2015 and 2014. With rare exceptions, new cameras shoot better than models two or three years ago.
New items are not that much different from their predecessors. GPS, touchscreen, bluetooth ... you can certainly think of something else to respond to the whistle of the owner, "cough" when the battery is low in the cold, automatic ejection of the memory card when it is full ... into the dirt; - also not superfluous. I would like to agree with the phrase “new cameras shoot better than models of two or three years ago”, but it’s not the camera that shoots…. And then a lot depends on which lens to attach to it. Such “oldies” as Canon 20D, Canon 5D, Nikon D100, Nikon D300 with good optics (in good hands) are still able to impress.
Ooooh hassle with the choice of lens ...
Recently, I ride in auto-moto competitions, take pictures of both spectators and participants and the races themselves. I use the Nikon D7000 camera, but there is a hassle which lens to choose and preferably high-speed. Maybe someone will help and tell what?
I myself use Sigma 17-50 / 2.8 as a standard + Nikkor 80-200 / 2.8 (I) but this telephoto focuses very hard in winter, which makes it impossible to make pictures more successful and sharp.
I do not exclude the main problem that the hands do not grow from there))) Nevertheless, I return to my question)) can someone tell me what can be used in conjunction with the Nikon D7000? Desirable high-speed ...
Perhaps these lenses are quite suitable ... I will not give up practical advice on shooting technique.
Do you use a focus distance limiter? In summer, the speed is much higher?
I use a limiter, but still somehow it works hard. The regular simple zoom 18-105 /3.5-5.6 works much faster)) I did not use it in the summer, because I took it from a friend a couple of months ago. In the summer I will also try it at sporting events.
Again, I do not exclude the matter of habit, because Compared to other 80-200 lenses, it is noticeably heavier and can shake hands with no habit)))
Ken Rockwell writes that focus speed is low. And as for the choice of a fast telephoto, you yourself understand, either the dark AF-S 70-300mm 1: 4.5-5.6G VR for the sane money or the light AF-S 70-200mm f / 2.8G ED VR II for the sane. As an intermediate version of the AF-S Nikkor 70-200mm 1: 4G ED SWM VR. Or look for AF-S 80-200mm f / 2.8.
Nikkor AF-S DX 17-55mm f / 2.8 G paired with Nikkor AF-S 70-200mm f / 4 G and preferably on D7100 or D7200; - these models have practically no problems with focusing (it is important for dynamic sports stories).
Suggestions and changes:
“Once again in big letters - think about the fact that megapixels in amateur-grade DSLR cameras do nothing at all.”
decide
“The Nikon D5500 is interesting for the lack of a low-pass filter (allows you to get very sharp photos), a rotatable touch screen, a good focusing system, burst shooting at 5 frames per second and Full HD 60p video (with progressive scan). Of course, the Nikon D5500 is packed with a whole bunch of modern 'gadgets', it has wi-fi sensors, GPS (optional), HDR functions and a lot of tips for newbies. ”
Arkady, well, it's not true, about “GPS (optional)” ...
The younger D5300 has GPS, and the D5500 only has the ability to screw on a separately purchased and externally connected unit, which eats a very strong battery and costs very much American money. Well, you can screw it to the old D90 too ...
IMHO - everything is simpler:
- if you want GPS, take D5300, it is almost as good as D5500;
- you can do without GPS - take the D5500 better - it is slightly better in noise, a little lighter and consumes the battery much more economically.
You can screw the GPS into the D5100 ...
And what pr d5200 nobody remembers? I’m thinking which Nikon DSLR to buy. In mind, 3100,3200,5100,5200. The budget limits to buy newer and more expensive, and it’s hardly useful for the first DSLR. What do you advise ? Maybe 3100 and an interesting lens or 5200 (5100) whale
D5100 + 18-105 - would be a great option. Perhaps then you will not buy anything in addition (except perhaps - on the camera puff) - I have three friends on such sets 'sit'.
5100 is no longer a novelty for a long time, and you can find the control unit in good condition for little (relatively) money, while it has a good matrix, slightly inferior to the more modern ones in noise: ISO 2000 is still quite working, the noise is moderate, the color leaves already with 2500, I do not recommend use.
The D3100 is a little worse - the functionality is slightly reduced (compared to the 5100), the matrix is slightly older, the display is weak (low resolution). Newer devices are a little less noisy, but with a large bucket of megapixels, they have higher requirements for optics.
The 18-105 is also a very pleasant universal lens; it comes out inexpensively with the device. A better alternative is 18-140, but it is also more expensive.
If you want 'creativity' - buy Helios-81n for it - with it you will inexpensively understand what high-aperture optics is, and what it is to work with manual optics. If you like the manual work - take the portrait classics - Jupiter_37a - with a rotary display, working in LV is quite comfortable.
5100 is already outdated, although super-duper, and of the three thousandth series, 3300 is the most delicious. And it keeps high ISO 5 frames per second and video 1080 60 frames per second, and at the same time the smallest and lightest, and it costs like 3100, well, maybe a little more expensive, 50 dollars.
And glass is already a difficult question, on the one hand a fixed fast lens would not hurt by the type of 35mm 1,8, and on the other hand there might not be a desire to carry a lot of glasses with you, then the most budget wagon is 18-105, as already mentioned above, 18-140 is a little expensive.
Well, if there is no problem to take more than one lens with you, then it may be worth taking a kit with 18-55, plus a 55-300 TV set, it seems to cost like 18-105.
In general, something like this.
3300 is much more expensive. I don’t know what is better to take, confused already. I need a camera only for shooting portraits of people in general. Landscapes are not needed. I don’t want to overpay. I understood from what I read above that 70% depends on the lens.
Dmitry, take a look at the used Fuji S5Pro, if you do not make portraits on ISO above 400 and you do not need to shoot video, then this will be a good choice.
Dmitry may not be able to find the "stick". And not cheap to that. Then 200, if the weight is not worn out (with a lens per kg), or models also with an SSD matrix, an advanced version - D80, D70s. Advanced - because they have wireless flash control (useful for portraits), also fast. synchronization and motor. The 5100 does not have this, in addition, unfortunately, a problematic color in portraits is not excluded, in addition to the photo itself, you will have to learn how to use Photoshop and improve programs. Well, the simplest, easy option is the D3000 and earlier. The lens is probably 50 / 1,8 of any version to start with.
For a gift to a girl. I’m sure that I won’t be carried away professionally
I would not recommend taking an old CCD camera because of the low working ISO. The camera in this case will be less versatile.
All the same, the 5100 is an excellent machine (considering the price).
In general, for bust / face portraits, it is not bad to have a high-aperture fix like 85 / 1,8, but in a small room it is difficult to work with it; for tall ones it is better to have 35 / 1,8 - with this and the room is normal, but it is better not for them to shoot bosom / face portraits
Therefore, for the first time, in order to determine which RFs are in demand, and what is missing, I advise you to take 18-105, 18-140, or a set of 18-55 + 55-300
"All the same 5100 is a great machine (including the price)." The machine is great (I have it myself), but sometimes it goes nowhere. These are the notorious KMOS colors, critical for faces, and I also remember Mr. Bright noted that the pictures were sometimes covered with a veil, and I agree with him (how the light came in). In any case, comparing it with the STD photo, the differences are clearly visible: they have bold contours, the colors on the faces are delicate and natural. I met the opinion that Nikons of the X300 series give good colors, but Dmitry is a little expensive. Then such an option: D3000 hand-held in a new state, to it 18-55ED (2nd or 1st), or 17-50 / 2,8 tamron-sigma, or 18-105. Of the fixes, probably 50 / 1,8G, because 85 / 1,8 is expensive and less versatile, fifty is also good.
depending on whom and for what
Comrades, welcome!
I choose a gift.
Now the birthday of Nikon D3000 (bought in 2010 like) + 35 1.8G + 18-55 kit.
Complaints about the current iron in insufficient sharpness, lack of light on the 3000th matrix with a whale, noise.
With 35mm, there are frequent autofocus misses and, as a result, a fuzzy picture (there is probably more lens ... for adjustment?)
There are often glitches with the definition of a memory card. The carcass, as he says, is fighting, it was splattered / poured, now it seems like a “second life” for her after two years of inactivity.
So the question arose.
The budget is 30K. Moscow.
Buy a new carcass? for example, D5100 / D5200 / D7000.
Or buy a new glass and / or flash / other accessory with this money ... and wait until the D3000 gets tired completely?
Sorry for the confusion, I do not really understand the question :)
a flash
in principle, there is enough money for the carcass (5100) and for the flash :)
and the flash will be Chinese?)
Yes. If I understood correctly, the d3000 does not have such a rich functionality for working with external flashes ...
Only from the answers did not understand. Do not buy a carcass? :)
I have a Chinese flash. I haven’t tried my own, but the Chinese TTL works horribly)
why I think it’s better to take a flash: the sum of 30 sput is not so big, if you think that it’s enough for the camera, you can take it. you can’t guess with the lens, all the more it is advisable to check it. and branded flash will last a long time, especially since now there is no
however, 30 ty is enough for a whale, I thought the prices rose more)
All right. Prices are not so critical. Found in Moscow D5100 Body for 16k rubles.
Two 18-55 and 35 1.8 lenses are already in use.
We take the flash for sure, thanks.
We’ll think about a carcass, maybe we’ll also buy a present in the gift budget :)
+1 per flash. If you take the SB-700, then another rack with a softbox is enough.