Nikon 18-105mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED Nikkor VR AF-S SWM DX IF Aspherical (this is the full name of this lens, written on its body) is ordinary advanced full-time zoom lens... It comes as a base for some cameras and is often referred to as'whale'(from the English' kit '- kit). Now Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G can be found with almost all Nikon DX cameras elementary and intermediate. It originally came as one of three options for the camera. Nikon D90, own, it was announced along with this camera.
Nikon Nikkor dx 18-105mm
Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G lens suitable exclusively for APS-C DSLR cameras Nikon DX, which means that it is not designed for full frame cameras, but for so-called 'cropped' cameras. The full list of Nikon DX cropped cameras can be viewed here... Install Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G on full-frame cameras Nikon fx Not recommended.
Main technical specifications of Nikon 18-105mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED Nikkor VR AF-S SWM DX IF Aspherical:
| Review Instance Name | Nikon 18-105mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED Nikkor VR AF-S SWM DX IF Aspherical ∞-0.45m / 1.48ft Ø67 Made in Thailand US36549947 |
| Basic properties |
|
| Front Filter Diameter | 67 mm, plastic thread for filters |
| Focal length | 18-105 mm EGF for Nikon DX cameras is 27-157.5 mm |
| Zoom ratio | 5.83 X (usually rounded to 6) |
| Designed by | for digital cameras Nikon DX |
| Number of aperture blades | 7 rounded petals |
| Tags | focal lengths for 18, 24, 35, 50, 70, 105 mm, bayonet mount mark and hood mounts |
| Diaphragm | 18 mm from F / 3.5 to F / 22. 105 mm from F / 5.6 to F / 38. The lens is deprived of the aperture control ring, control is via the camera menu (G - lens type) |
| MDF (Minimum Focus Distance) | 0.45 m over the entire range of focal lengths, maximum magnification ratio 1: 5 |
| Stabilizer features | 3.5 stops by CIPA standards, 3 stops by Nikon standards. The stabilizer monitors the movement of the camera while shooting panoramas. |
| The weight | 420 g |
| Optical design | 15 elements in 11 groups, including
Image of optical circuit clickable |
| Lens hood | Nikon HB-32, bayonet type, plastic, the following lenses use the same lens hood: |
| Transportation | With a soft cover CL-1018 |
| Manufacturer country | Thailand, inscription on the lens: “MADE IN THAILAND”. Important: since 2014, the production of these lenses has moved to China. |
| Period | From August 27, 2008 to the present day (at least until the summer of 2017) |
| 3D view | View -> |
| Instructions | View–> |
| Price |
Nikon Nikkor dx 18-105mm, view from the bayonet side
Assembly
A copy of this review was made in Thailand. Important: Since 2014, the production of these lenses has moved to China.
The Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G is pleasant and weighty to the touch, weighing just over 400 grams. The lens uses common 67mm color filters.
Please note that the Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G on the mount side does not have a special rubber gasket, which is an indication that the lens has dust and moisture protection. It is better not to expose the Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G to severe moisture and dust tests.
The focus ring is plastic, and the zoom lens is rubberized. Unfortunately, the Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G has plastic bayonet, for which many photographers dislike it. The plastic mount is the first sign that the user is facing a lens from the simplest Nikon Nikkor line of lenses. For example, among the universal Nikon DX lenses, only the simplest kit lenses of the class have a plastic mount. 18-55/3.5-5.6 and another not very successful Nikon 18-135 / 3.5-5.6G.
The retractable lens barrel consists of two sections, to the touch they are quite durable, without any backlash.
With frequent use, the lens may begin to suffer from spontaneous lengthening of the frame (trunk of the lens) under its own weight.
There is a bayonet mount mark and a mark on the case for quick installation of the hood. The lens uses an HB-32 plastic lens hood, which is fixed in special grooves located near the front lens of the lens. The lens hood comes with the lens. The hood can be installed in the opposite direction for transportation. In this position, access to the zoom ring is partially lost. Exactly the same lens hood Nikon 18-70, Nikon 18-135 и Nikon 18-140.
When changing the focal length, the rear lens moves in the middle of the lens body like a pump - it draws in and pushes out air. This behavior of the rear lens is called 'vacuum cleaner effect', which can increase the amount of dust that accumulates in the camera. You can clearly see the effect of a vacuum cleaner with a Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G lens here.
The Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G comes with a CL-1018 soft case, and the lens itself comes in a small cardboard box with a characteristic Nikon coloring.
Nikon Nikkor dx 18-105mm, rear information part
Diaphragm
Diaphragm lens consists of 7 rounded petalswhich form a fairly even hole. Diaphragm closes to F / 22 by 18 mm and to F / 38 by 105 mm of focal length.
Unfortunately, Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G cannot boast good aperture.
There are marks with a focal length on the zoom ring, the following is a list with the minimum numbers F available for these marks:
- 18 mm - F / 3.5
- 24 mm - F / 4
- 35 mm - F / 4.5
- 50 mm - F / 5
- 70 mm - F / 5.3
- 105 mm - F / 5.6
Nikon Nikkor dx 18-105mm, maximum length
Stabilizer
The Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G has a second generation 'Nikon VR' image stabilizer that can compensate for 3.5 stops by shutter speed. In values excerpts this means that you can shoot at shutter speeds 10-12 times longer than what the lens without a stabilizer requires.
The manual for the Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G lens says 3 stops (measured by Nikon), and the official website 3.5 feet (measured by CIPA). In any case, the stabilizer works well.
To enable / disable the stabilizer on the lens there 'VR ON / OFF' button. The stabilizer itself works well. I was able to take pictures without grease and hard work at 105 mm focal length and 1/30 second. Unlike more advanced lenses, such as Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 16-85mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED VR SWM IF Aspherical, this lens does not have the ability to switch stabilizer modes.
While the image stabilizer is turned on and off, the viewfinder may twitch slightly, this is the norm and should not be afraid. The stabilizer is turned on by pressing the focus activation button.
The lens can track the movement of the camera during panorama shooting. In this case, the stabilizer will suppress vibration only in the direction perpendicular to the movement of the camera.
Nikon Nikkor dx 18-105mm with the most extended frame of the case and the established hood
Focusing
Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G focuses quietly thanks to 'SWM'-motor (Silent Wbird Motor - quiet wave / ultrasonic motor) and refers to the lens'AF S'type (with built-in motor focusing), and therefore it will automatically focus on any Nikon digital SLR camera.
Auto Focus Speed - average. On cameras Nikon D90, D200 the lens focuses tenaciously and does not release objects from the field of sharpness.
During focusing, the front and rear lenses remain stationary, as the lens uses internal focusthat is indicated on the case by the letters'IF'-'Iinternal Focus' - 'Inner Focus'. The front lens does not rotate while zooming. It is possible to use any filters without problems.
When changing the focal length, the front lens does not rotate.
The minimum focusing distance is only 45 cm, while you can shoot Macro with 1: 5 magnification... Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G does not have a window with a distance scale, depth of field scale and other useful marks.
In manual focus mode, the ring rotates about 120 degrees, when it reaches the extreme positions it does not rest, but continues to slide, without affecting the focus. Manual focus is easy.
On the lens housing you can find focus switch 'A - M'. In position 'A', automatic focusing works, and in position M - manual focusing.
The 'A-M' switch in this lens is non-standard. Normally, in all lenses equipped with such switches, manual focus cannot be performed in 'A' mode. But here is what the manual says for Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G:
Manual focus can be performed even if the AM lens mode is set to A. Set the camera to focus on AF-S and press the shutter-release button halfway to autofocus. Then, while holding the shutter-release button halfway, manually rotate the lens focus ring to fine-tune the focus. Note. Do not try to rotate the focus ring while the autofocus function is operating. When the autofocus function completes, release and press the shutter-release button halfway again.
Thus, in AF-S mode, after successful focusing, you can still rotate the focus ring to adjust the focus or refocus it. Unfortunately, such a property is only a miserable semblance of a full-fledged regime M / AM with the possibility of constant manual focus control.
You can find more information about lenses with a similar feature in the section Focus Features 'A', for some Nikkor lenses with the 'A-M' switch.
Nikon Nikkor dx 18-105mm with hood in transport mode
Image quality
The lens is sharp enough in the center of the frame, even on open apertures. Sharpness sags a little at 105 mm. Unfortunately, the corners and edges of the image on open apertures remain very weak. The lens also suffers from chromatic aberration and vignetting. Modern cameras can automatically correct vignetting and chromatic aberration.
Of course, at 18 mm you can see barrel-shaped distortion, which becomes pads like with an increase in focal length. The level of dystoria is at an adequate level for comfortable perception of the image.
Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G well tolerates side and back light and shows good contrast, which is typical of modern universal lenses. In general, I did not find anything particularly bad or good in the quality of the image obtained with the Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G.
Nikon Nikkor dx 18-105mm and Nikon AF-S Nikkor 18-70mm 1: 3.5-4.5G ED DX SWM IF Aspherical
Examples of photos on Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G:
UPDATED
More examples on Nikon D5600:
You can download the original photos in RAW format at this link (15 files, 400 MB).
Examples on Nikon D7200:
You can download the original photos in RAW format at this link (15 files, 400 MB).
Nikon 18-105mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED Nikkor VR AF-S SWM DX IF Aspherical prices
Actual lens prices can see here, or in the price block below:
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My experience
Nikon 18-105mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED Nikkor VR AF-S SWM DX IF Aspherical was my first universal lens for my first two cameras Nikon D40 и Nikon D90. I used it a little over a year, after which I changed it to Tamron 17-50mm F / 2.8 XR Di II LD Aspherical (IF). Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G is nothing more than an ordinary whale lens with a slightly expanded focal length, which allows you to use part of the tele-range.
For a month, I was simultaneously holding Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G and Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-55mm 1: 3.5-5.6GII ED SWM Aspherical, which allowed me to compare their capabilities. As a result, it turned out that using a range of focal lengths of 18-105 is several times more convenient than using 18-55. The ability to use 105 mm of focal length on the Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G is one of the lens's greatest strengths. Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G also has a more pleasant / solid appearance and it is much more convenient to handle it than with 18-55.
This lens is not a bit suitable as a regular lens for some more or less serious shootings (wedding, responsible reporting, etc.). I took off 4 wedding on the Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G and now I regret it. In the same time Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G fits very well for simple tasks. He repeatedly helped me out on hikes, on vacation, for homely leisurely filming. Like it or not, but finding a more balanced lens than the Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G is very difficult.
From cheap universal lenses for Nikon DX cameras, I advise you to look at the options Nikon AF-S Nikkor 18-70mm 1: 3.5-4.5G ED DX SWM IF Aspherical и Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-135m 1: 3.5-5.6G ED SWM IF Aspherical. True, these lenses can only be found in use on the secondary market. A good replacement for Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G are Nikon DX VR AF-S Nikkor 18-140mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED SWM IF Aspherical и Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-200mm 1: 3.5-5.6GII ED SWM VR IF Aspherical.
The most similar lens from a third-party manufacturer is Sigma Zoom 18-125mm 1: 3.8-5.6 DC OS HSM (Optical Stabilizer).
An accurate list of all Nikon DX Nikkor lenses
- 10.5 mm/ 2.8G AF Fisheye [gold ring]
- 35 mm/1.8G AF-S
- 40 mm/2.8G AF-S Microphone
- 85 mm/3.5G AF-S VR Microphone
- 10-20mm/4.5-5.6G AF-P VR
- 10-24mm/3.5-4.5G AF-S
- 12-24mm/4G AF-S [gold ring]
- 16-80mm/ 2.8-4IN AF S VR [gold ring]
- 16-85mm/3.5-5.6G AF-S VR
- 17-55mm/2.8G AF-S [gold ring]
- 18-55mm/3.5-5.6G AF-S [black / silver]
- 18-55mm/3.5-5.6GII AF-S [black / silver]
- 18-55mm/3.5-5.6G AF-S VR
- 18-55mm/3.5-5.6GII AF-S VR
- 18-55mm/3.5-5.6G AF-P
- 18-55mm/3.5-5.6G AF-P VR
- 18-70mm/3.5-4.5G AF-S
- 18-105mm/3.5-5.6G AF-S VR [Thailand / China]
- 18-135mm/3.5-5.6G AF-S
- 18-140mm/3.5-5.6G AF-S VR [Thailand / China]
- 18-200mm/3.5-5.6G AF-S VR [Japan / China]
- 18-200mm/3.5-5.6GII AF-S VR
- 18-300mm/3.5-5.6G VR
- 18-300mm/3.5-6.3G VR
- 55-200mm/4-5.6G AF-S [black / silver, Japan / China]
- 55-200mm/4-5.6G AF-S VR
- 55-200mm/4-5.6GII ED VR
- 55-300mm/4.5-5.6G AF-S VR
- 70-300mm/4.5-6.3G AF-P
- 70-300mm/4.5-6.3G AF-P VR
Thank you the store www.fotika.com.ua behind provided by Nikon 18-105mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED Nikkor VR AF-S SWM DX IF Aspherical lens, which I took for a while to create photos with its appearance.
Nikon Nikkor dx 18-105mm on camera Nikon D40x
Results
Nikon 18-105mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED Nikkor VR AF-S SWM DX IF Aspherical lens performed quite well as universal lens for amateur photographers. On vacation, he is simply indispensable. Unfortunately, one should not expect high optical performance from such a lens. In general, the lens is good for its price class.
I recommend it as the very first lens for Nikon DX cameras. It is best to buy a Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G kit (together with the camera), in which case the cost of the camera and lens will be lower than their total cost separately. Using Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G is much more convenient than class lenses. 18-55/3.5-5.6 due to the wider range of focal lengths.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval.
Good afternoon. Tell me, does anyone have experience of using this lens on FF? As far as it's possible? How critical is it? Interested, for example, on d610 ...
Here, read. There, clearly, with a photograph, it is shown what will happen if the DX lens is put on the FF camera: https://radojuva.com/2012/03/nikon-lenses/
If you shoot in FX mode, and then sprinkle, cutting off dark corners - it will be a little wider than in DH.
Absolutely pointless idea.
I fully agree with the author of the article. I used Nikon D5100 with 18-55 lens for several years, until my eldest daughter started taking photographs. I also had to give a Nikkor 85mm fix in addition (I took one from a friend - I really liked the quality for her tasks).
As for me Nikon D5100 with 18-55 lens suited everything with one “BUT” - there was not enough focal length.
Now I bought myself a Nikon D5300 with an 18-105 lens. For non-professional use, just a bomb. The D5600 would have been better, but after weighing the price and the additives I would get, I settled on the D5300.
All successful shots in creativity.
On a half-frame, 24MP is a rare tripper. 14MP - ceiling for 1.5
Use normal lenses and there will be no “triper”.
>> Half-frame 24MP - rare tripper
Yeah. Especially for those who cannot shoot.
And here he can or not? It is also very weak at 16 megapixels d5100. From 105 mm there is little sense because its sharpness is the best in the range of 30-80mm. The sharpness sags so much that they don’t accept photos on stocks. All of them are approximately the same, the right edge of the frame is soapy at any apertures, the corners are floating too, for some it happens that the upper right quarter of the frame looks like someone smeared it with Vaseline. 18-55 is especially updated and that one is better.
And how is he in comparison with 18-55 on similar fr? The wide angle is especially interesting.
To be honest !!!! Whoever does not need sharp pictures, you can take! nikon 3400. I bought a new 18-105 I chose from 4 (fortunately the seller is a neighbor), I checked my own on different cameras. soapy at all focal points. 18-55 af-p is sharper. for a long time in production, not because of quality, but marketing (the fotik looks more solid in the window. Thanks to the site, of course, but photos of crops are required !!!
It was released in 2008, for cameras with 12 megapixels, in the same year as d90. And you want ringing sharpness at 24?)
I was led to a laudatory review, I got this 18-105. More or less acceptable shots start with an aperture of 6,3 - 8, before that soap. I thought the seller cheated, okay sold it for parts. No, I think it can't be, they praise it - I bought another one. Same stuff. I get in touch with the seller - that one: yes, these lenses are so ... No need to be fooled. Better whale 18-55. Better yet, 18-135. Sharp throughout the range.
This review is over 10 years old. We need to make a discount. For a beginner hobbyist, he is really good. If you try very hard, then they can take excellent pictures. If sharpness is important to you, then either fixes or professional zoom - 17-55.
So the lens of 2008 and there were no updates. It was designed for d90 with 12 megapixels. Why doesn't the second version come out for new cameras like 18-55?
18-55 in the second version, but the canon just rings) At 3.5, the corners sag, and then everything is clear. But who shoots with such glasses at 3.5? What for? And also 70-300 cheap without a stub which with an ordinary motor, I did not expect really ringing sharpness from it, I tried it with a friend both on crop and on ff 24 megapixels. All the same, canon’s budget glasses are much better. And my 18-55 from canon served me actively for 8 years, and nothing happened to it, it didn’t suck dust and the rubber bands didn’t float.
I took the first photograph in 1969, as a 5-year-old boy, composing developing-fixing solutions under the supervision of a parent. In the 70s, I took first places in the republican children's competitions, submitting portraits, landscapes, reports. He worked in everyday life, producing the maximum negatives 30x40 cm and printing by the projection method from the negative 13x18 cm):
In the gloomy 90s, I had to print using the projection manual method faster than a fuji machine, after which I re-profiled and became an engineer by previous education.
The best b / w photos, I took a fed with an Industar 51 lens, in the 1983 army competition - I took 1st place in KODVO.
I graduated from analag photo activity with 7000 minolta with a 35-70 lens, after a break in photography that became a hobby, I became the proud owner of d90 and d5100 from 18-55, 55-300 and tamron 17-50 \ 2,8. The other day, Nikon 18-105 fell into the tenacious clutches of the Motherland. I tested it on d90 and d5100, after which I made a firm decision to get rid of the tamron.
18-105 on my crops, it showed itself quite well, sharp and remarkable in terms of color rendering, the jpegs climb out such that they do not require dancing with a tambourine in raves compared to tamron 17-50. I should note that in relation to this glass, d90 and d5100 behave friendly and practically do not require exposure compensation, I even rejected attempts to sell d90, it is against d5100, in some cases it gives a rather tasty picture.
Conclusion: a cool lens for an inexpensive price. Do not save, take in the best condition.
Thank you for the story, for the unexpected comparison of 18-105 and T.17-50 / 2,8. When I bought T.28-75 / 2,8 A09NII, on the contrary, I noted the increased picture quality against whale zoom. Even comparing it with N.40 / 2,8, I did not see what the tamron would lose. Now I'm thinking of taking T.17-50 / 2,8 for my ssd-shnyh crops (although 18-105 and especially 18-55 EDII are quite satisfactory), and you are a grain of doubt for me ... And from you the first I hear about the loss of T.17- 50 dark zoom.
Looking through my archives the other day on a 42-inch monitor, I discovered that the Nikon 18-55, which I once rejected, gave a very good picture, superior in color rendering to Tamron 17-50. Nikon has better detailing in highlights, color rendering is more real and there is a feeling of harmony in a bunch of native devices. In the harsh realities of life, it makes no sense to shoot a tamron on hole 2,8, to get most of the “exit requests” you need to twist the hole from 4,5 to 11. Yuzal at one time helios-81 at d90, after which he ranked himself in the league perverts, because with all due respect to the domestic manufacturer, Nikon's optics looks more perfect. Screw the Tavria muffler to the Honda through Lushnikov's dandelion, and then brag in public about how spicy the exhaust was - you may be mistaken for a weird person, tk. native Glushak works clearly better.
I am happy to buy 18-55 or 18-105.
Why "get it" right away. Take it to the institute, out of habit, as in the good old days.
I can give a lot of stories, especially on b / w photography and Soviet photographic equipment.
I didn’t hold in my hands only “Photocor”, “Komsomolets”, “Yunost” and “Moment”, I worked with photographic plates and sheet films. I took photochemistry in the institute laboratories of the ChDA brand, this is for you on "F" in stores, and it's cool, like shooting on film book-3. Everything is in the past, new times, digital, covid-19 and homosexuality have replaced the good old grandfather's analogue ...
Um, I must write some kind of refutation and repent of a few hasty conclusions.
Having done 18-105 at d90 and d5100, I desired to become the owner of this optical miracle. Then, having gained patience, I began to hammer tamron 18-50 on the same cameras and found that when the tamron was working on d5100, the results were much more fun than on d90. And autofocus works more vigorously and exposure metering. The colors and the level of sharpness and metering on the d5100 are flawless, and the d90 is somewhat dull in these parameters. Perhaps for d90 tamron 17-50 is more alien, with persistence and extra free time is acceptable, but in full glory it is not revealed. I don't want 18-105 anymore.
Good day everyone! Tell me, is there a difference in the assembly of Taiwan / China? What is better to take on the secondary housing?
Maybe Thailand is China?
In Taiwan, the canon was done like.
And so there is no difference.
Exactly - Thailand). Thank you, we will take it!
Hello again. I got this lens (hand-held, in good condition). And now the question arose: how to check the efficiency of the stabilizer? To be sure - whether it works or not. Because it feels like what's with him, what's without him…. True, I check the photo at maximum magnification for small details (letters on a business card, inscriptions on pencils, etc.). I found a method on the Internet, but whether my hands are shaking more than they should be ...) I also can't understand from the sound, whether it is focusing or stab ... In general, I will be glad if you can tell me how to calm my doubts.
Take the longest shutter speed with the stub when you get a sharp photo. Then turn off the stub and take another shot. If the stub works, the second frame should be blurry.
When the stub is on, immediately after focusing for 1-2 seconds, if you put your ear to the lens, you can hear the noise of the stub motor.
there is no motor. two mutually perpendicular coils on the body and two magnets on a suspension with a lens. everything is similar to the tracking / focusing system of a CD / DVD drive.
much easier. turn on LV, set the maximum focal length, focus on something distant, enlarge the picture and look at the display. when the stub is off, the picture will more than tremble and dance from the tremor of the hands. when it is on, it will be practically motionless.
I checked it according to your scheme - it turns out that it shakes both when it is turned on and when it is turned off (moreover, it seems that when it is turned off, it shakes even less ... although not a fact). I also did this: switched to manual focus (to exclude autofocus sounds), pressed my ear to the lens and half-pressed the shutter release. Silence! No motors, clanks, clanks - nothing! It turns out that I don't have a stabilizer. Then the question is: I know that it helps to remove shake at long exposures, but how much is it really useful? Ie, can I live without it? After all, there are a lot of lenses without a stub and people somehow remove them ...
it seems to me that the sho experiment was not entirely correct, I did not think that I needed to write the obvious - the stub turns on when the button is half pressed and continues to work for a few more seconds after it is released. the difference in picture jitter in LV with and without a stub, with a large RF and an enlarged picture, is more than noticeable.
The picture will shake both with and without a stub, just with a stub it will seem to stick when the camera moves. It is very easy to determine by ear - made a half-press, released the button, and after 2 seconds a sound similar to a quiet click will be heard, as if some small object had fallen into place.
You can shoot without a stub, but with a lack of light, the percentage of blur will be higher.
With the stub turned on, the picture in LV does not shake. we are not talking about this lens, but in general. on my 5DMkII + 24-105 4.0L with the stub turned on and in LV I see a completely motionless picture even on outstretched and clearly shaking hands.
I considered it my duty to supplement my post from 11.06.2021/5100/XNUMX. purchased at a tasty price with minimum mileage dXNUMX included with this lens. What can I say ... Nice. Quite abruptly. I specially tried to shoot at the maximum open apertures. I like it. There is a light purple border on the red flowers - easy to edit. From all that has been said, I conclude that the purchase of this lens is, in some way, a lottery. You need to check carefully.
I don't like him on the d5100. It seems sharp, but there is no ringing.
Try attaching a small bell to it.
Attach a friend to your testicles)
you wouldn't be rude to people. Friend is a dog.
I communicate in the chosen manner.
The more megapixels, the more flaws bulge out. I liked it on the D90, but I already wanted to spit on the D5500.
So he did 2008 goa under d90i .... There have been no updates and second versions so far. And it costs a new one, to put it mildly, simply inadequate.
No wiggle, you can shoot handheld with a focal length of 105 mm and 1 / 2sec
If only you are a master of sports in shooting).
hello rkady! lens Nikon 18-105mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED VR on two different "carcasses" d50 and d90, the focusing speed is very different. On d50, it’s excellent, on d90 it’s slower and much more. What could be the reason? Sincerely, Vitaly
I opened the ravines, not a single normal photo, all soapy ... The sharpness of 18-55 is many times better.
So this is RAW)
My experience is a piece G lens. But sometimes it was out of place and gave good shots. Nikon d5100 and 18-105
polar statement
There is such. As with the d5100, from delight and love to hate) With canon, somehow everything is smooth and stable in all cases.
Good day. I want to take a Nikon d3200 camera for myself, it has a camera with a 35mm/1.8G AF-S lens and 18-105mm.
Can you tell me which lens is better to use?
A very difficult choice. But a station wagon is more often needed than a light standard fix
Z oboma.
I disagree with the author of the article here. I am not only an amateur photographer, but also experienced in commercial photography. And in my opinion, Arkady’s statement that this lens is not suitable for serious photography is exaggerated. I shot some dynamic scenes with it, weddings, any kind of photography in general and I can confidently say that it is suitable even for commercial purposes, but with the caveat that at the long end it is not so sharp that you can confidently sell the photo, BUT! But this can be partially treated by covering the diaphragm, if possible.
But 18-55 is sharp at all focal lengths except 18 mm)) there is terrible blur and chrome aberration at the edges. As for professional lenses, they differ to a greater extent in essence, in image, only with less vignetting, slightly less color distortion at the edges of objects. But 18-105, unlike, by the way, 50 mm 1.8 g and d, even with closed apertures, gives a minimum of some color distortions, and then only approximately 18-25 mm.
In general, I still have the 18-17 and I didn’t understand Arkady’s idea to use it instead of the 18-105, perhaps for the sake of the iron bayonet?) Apparently the author meant that this lens is a little lighter and sharper at the long end WITH A COVERED aperture. That's all. That is, if you have 18-105, there is no particular point in using 18-70, especially since 18-70 does not have a stub, the lens has a problem with blurring the focus indoors (maybe, of course, it’s the focus of my copy).
As for concerns about the breakage of the plastic mount, many Nikonists have an 18-55; its mount can be taken as a donor one. Moreover, older versions of this lens are inexpensive. In general, it’s not worth getting rid of 18-55, it can be used as a donor and gives good sharpness and also never smears, except in absolute darkness.
Of course, Nikon has much sharper and less vignette prime lenses of the 35 mm, 85 mm or luxury series) But not even all commercial professional photographers will be able to afford such expensive lenses. In general, it is not yet clear why Arkady does not recommend 18-135, calling it unsuccessful, and 18-140 better than 18-105, of course, I personally have not tried them, I have only seen reviews, but I think that not everything is so bad. But the Canon 18-135 is definitely not very high quality, just like its 50 mm or 18-55. But this is by the way.
Therefore, 18-105 is a balance between compactness, price, quality and convenience. And it is one of the most successful lenses in the history of digital photography, IMHO. And Nikon didn’t have any frankly unsuccessful lenses. Unless, as far as I understand, the first releases of Nikor 18-105 had soap on the long end, but this was very quickly corrected.
D100 + 18-105