Canon EOS 5D - this is a legendary old full frame semi-professional camera (or advanced amateur - as it is convenient to count), which was produced from 2005 to 2008. My version made in japan. Canon 5D became the third camera after Canon EOS 1DS и Canon EOS 1Ds Mark II with a full-frame sensor, the Canon EOS 5D is the first in a new class of professional cameras with a lightweight body (often referred to as 'semi-pro'). Canon EOS 5D has direct descendants: this 5D MarkII, 5D Mark III и 5D Mark IV... Canon EOS 5D is often referred to simply as'first dime'or' 5D classic '.
The Canon EOS 5D has a 13.3 MP CMOS sensor, of which only 12.8 MP, which by today's standards is not so much, but 12.8 MP is enough for comfortable shooting of most photo tasks. I rarely find it necessary to use cameras with a large number of megapixels. Canon EOS 5D Captures Images 4368 by 2912 pixels (total - 12.719.616 pixels), which is enough to print pictures even on the A3-A4 format. I rarely print pictures larger than 20 x 30 cm.
Canon EOS 5D can use ISO from 100 to 1600 and expand the range to a value ISO L (ISO 50), ISO H (ISO 3200). Today you won’t surprise anyone with ISO 3200, even modern Canon cropped cameras with APS-C format sensors, for example Canon 650D, can overclock their ISO up to 25.600. But still, I want to pay tribute to the old lady Canon EOS 5D: unlike the 'inflated' ISO values of many cropped cameras, the Canon EOS 5D can actually use its ISO 1600 and even ISO 3200. In terms of noise level, the Canon EOS 5D still bypasses a lot. (if not all!) cropped cameras, such as Canon 7D, Nikon D300, Pentax K5, Sony SLT-A65 etc.
Canon EOS 5D can shoot at speed 3 frames per second. Some argue that the speed is around 3.5 to \ s. The camera shows in the lower right corner. frame bufferequal to 9 shots (8 frames when using the ISO extended range function), but when shooting in Drive mode, you can take about 17-20 pictures in RAW format until the camera starts to slow down. In JPEG L mode, a series of shots reaches 60 frames. Generally, pretty large real frame buffer I was pleasantly surprised.
But when shooting in RAW + JPEG mode, after filling in the frame buffer, the camera goes into a stupor for a long time. In this mode, the buffer is 12 shots, the camera takes the next frame in only 10-15 seconds, which is an eternity! Using a fast memory card does not solve the problem.
Canon EOS 5D can use RAW (CR2) format only with 12 bit depth of color. RAW (CR2) files average 11 to 19 MB. JPEG L files are 2 to 10 MB on average. Canon EOS 5D uses fast cards CF. My Canon EOS 5D easily made friends with a memory card CF Transcend 32GB 400x and Transcend 32GB 133x.
Important: The data recording speed, which depends on the camera itself, is very low on the Canon EOS 5D and this cannot be corrected by using a faster memory card. One RAW file weighing about 10 MB, the camera records about one second even with the fastest CF cards.
I liked the Canon EOS 5D excellent ergonomicsa, large monochrome backlit secondary display. The camera weighs about 900 grams with the battery and without the lens. Almost a kilogram of weight is not scary. Canon EOS 5D does not have a dust and water resistant body. Camera display 2.5 inch with 230.000 points. When working with the display, I noticed that it reproduces the real color rather poorly in the obtained photos - it is too faded. The camera's menu is quite simple, it is very easy to understand it, in this camera it became available in Russian as well.
Canon EOS 5D supports shutter speeds from 30 s to 1 \ 8000 s. For measuring exposure 35-zone sensor responds, a large number of amateur Canon cameras have a similar sensor, more about it here.
Canon 5D has just 9 focus points (and 6 more invisible auxiliary)... In the Custom Functions menu, I recommend adjusting the focus point selection with the joystick. You can read more about the focusing system installed on the Canon 5D in the 'Canon EOS Camera Focus Sensors'.
But the Canon 5D has a good large optical viewfinder with 96% coverage, working with such a viewfinder is pretty nice. The battery holds up to 1000 shots, which is pretty good.
Sample Photos
All sample photos located in the gallery below were obtained using a Canon EOS 5D camera and lens YONGNUO 50mm 1: 1.4. Some photos were taken using a polarizing filter. HOYA 58mm PL-CIR.
Personal experience
Canon EOS 5D can be regarded as used. camera option for people who want to immediately start shooting at full frame. In nature there is no cheaper and more practical option for a full-frame camera. Although, for about the same cost you can find Canon EOS-1DS. Personally, I think Canon EOS 5D is preferable Canon EOS-1DS due to its smaller size, lithium-ion battery, larger display, larger frame buffer, more adequate work with memory cards and, most importantly, more flexible capabilities for processing RAW files.
Among the shortcomings of the Canon EOS 5D, I would like to note the absence of the Live View mode, which is very useful when working with manual optics, and the small number of focus points. At the same time, the camera does not have fine adjustment of automatic focus. True, Canon EOS 5D supports replacement focusing screens.
Many people complain that the camera sensor gets dirty quickly - Canon EOS 5D does not have a matrix cleaning system. Also in the camera no HDR, built-in flash, automatic ISO control in modes P, Av, Tv, M and many modern 'gadgets'. Many photographers have easily and painlessly switched to Canon 5D after crop cameras. Personally, I liked the color rendering of the Canon 5D much more than the color rendering on my 'workhorse' - Nikon D700.
At one time, I made a mistake - instead of Canon EOS 5D (even in the used version) I bought another cropped camera. Now i highly recommend to all novice photographers who are limited in funds and who do not need various 'gadgets', including video filming, instead of buying a 'mediocre' cropped camera, get a used one. Canon EOS 5D (not new). I think that for the growth of a photographer, immediately shooting in full frame is very, very important and useful. If you are looking for some interesting and inexpensive camera with a 'beautiful pattern', then I recommend looking at the 'Legends go to battle', as well as 'Full Frame with 28 megapixels for 240 cu :)'
More examples of photos, as well as source files in RAW format, can be viewed or downloaded in the following reviews:
- In my gallery at 500px
- In the video review
- Yongnuo 35mm 1: 1.4
- YONGNUO LENS YN50mm F1.4
- ASAHI OPT. CO., JAPAN SMC PENTAX-M 1: 1.7 50mm
- SMC PENTAX 1: 1.8 / 55 ASAHI OPT. CO., JAPAN
- Canon Zoom Lens EF 20-35mm 1: 3.5-4.5 Ultrasonic (there are examples at high ISO values)
- Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1: 1.4 / 50 ASAHI OPT. CO., JAPAN
- Canon Macro Lens EF 100mm 1: 2.8 L IS USM
- Carl Zeiss Makro-Planar 1: 2,8 f = 100mm T *
- Carl Zeiss Sonnar 2.8 / 135 T * (C / Y)
- EBC Fujinon.Z 1: 4.5 / 75-150 Fuji Photo Film Co. Lens-japan
- Vivitar 75-205mm 1: 3.8 Close Focusing Auto Zoom
- Hanimex Automatic 1: 2.8 f = 100mm (there are portraits)
- Sigma 70-200mm 1: 2.8 APO EX HSM (portraits available)
- MC Helios-44M-4 58mm 1: 2
- Auto Super-Lentar 1: 2.8 f = 35mm
- Travenar wide auto 1: 2.8 f = 28mm (colorful photos)
- Era-6M 1,5 / 50
- Nippon Kogaku Japan Micro-Nikkor Auto 1: 3.5 f = 55mm
- TAIR-3-FS 4,5 / 300
- Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1: 4 / 200 ASAHI OPT. CO., JAPAN
- Vivitar 17MM 1:3.5 AUTO WIDE-ANGLDE
- A. Schacht Ulm Edixa-Mat-Travenar-A 1:3,5/135
- Olympus OM-System G.Zuiko Auto-S 1:1.4 f=50mm
- Olympus OM-System E.Zuiko Auto-T 1:2.8 f=100mm
- Olympus OM-System Zuiko MC Auto-W 1:2.8 f=28mm
- Spiratone Tc 1:2.8 f=135mm Japan
- FUJINON 1:1.4/50 FUJI PHOTO FILM CO. LENS-JAPAN
- LEITZ CANADA SUMMICRON-R 1:2/90
- LEITZ WETZLAR SUMMILUX-R 1:1.4/50
Nowadays, the Canon EOS 5D is morally obsolete, but still attracts with its full-frame sensor and affordable price per second. option. Canon 5D only requires full-frame Ef lenses. Canon EOS 5D even nowadays shows a great picture at low ISO. Many appreciate it for its nice color rendering.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval.
I also bought myself a first-aid kit for the 1ds MarkII, which you cannot take with you everywhere and always because of its weight and size, and the 5d is universal in this regard. And his picture, in my opinion, is close to unity. I got a copy in excellent condition, the estimated mileage of 25 thousand (according to the service information), but it is clear that no one knows for sure - at least outwardly the camera is almost like from a store, with its own box, wires and even a cd-disk. The serial begins with 3 - which means late, 2008 (0-2005, 1 -2006, 2-2007, the early ones have problems with the mirror blade) In general, it is clear that they treated it with care.
Everything works perfectly, the only thing is that sometimes it turns on / off trigger (it's not for nothing that this idiotic lever is the only thing I don't like about canons). It happens, you stand - you turn it on, and the screen blinks if you touch this switch. Vigorous shifting back and forth in all three positions helps. It seems like a trifle, but annoying. I don’t know, from rare use of this, or vice versa, from frequent - i.e. Is it contact oxidation or wear? How to understand? Because of this nonsense, I really don't want to open the virgin chamber (especially to peel off the gum, which I’ll hardly glue it back so neatly), but I don’t know how to fight. Hopefully it can develop over time?
I use 35mm and 50mm with yongnuo, I also use a lot of manual retro lenses, and I was counting on them. And then there was some disappointment. For example, Helios 44-2 touches the mirror in the infinity position (Neither on one, nor on my 40D does it touch mine - but on a penny, this is such nonsense. I did not know that. It's a pity, I love Helios. That is, the choice of a manual lens should be treated Although Jena Tessar Zeiss, for example, also drives in, but not as much as Helios - everything seems to be all right with her.
Also, for some reason, a Pixco m42 adapter with a chip is not put on any dime. It just doesn't turn - that's all. Again, everything is fine on the other two canons. Why? Riddle ..
In general, a camera with its own peculiarities, strange)
Well, but the picture - what can I say .. It is beautiful)
Thanks for your feedback.
Arkady, thank you for a wonderful blog and everything you do! Can you tell me, with your experience you probably know which of the helios does not have the problem of clinging to the mirror on the fifth canons? Or do they all go inside so hard and no longer fit? Thank you!
All 44e + are the same, take 77m, 77m-4, 81n under 5d
Take any and sharpen so that the edge of the rear lens unit does not go beyond the plane of the adapter at the top (where the mirror moves).
Denis, MS Zenitar-M 50 / 1.9 and 50 / 1.7 do not touch the mirror! Checked! The first one can still be bought conditionally new, there are many ads on Avito and not expensive enough. Yes, the chip on the adapter scratches the plastic inside the carcass. But you can shoot without a chip, the viewfinder allows you to focus accurately even without changing the focusing screen and without installing a viewfinder magnifier. My Pixco adapter got up without getting stuck in the mount.
Hello. I have a camera with serial number 720505278. What year is it?
Pixco M42 - shiny stainless steel? If so, then he, too, did not get on a nickle in any way. I had to open a dispute on Aliexpress and punish the seller (bought from officials, Pixco itself) with a ruble. As a result, perseverance won out and the ring was then removed back only by swearing and almost ruining the bayonet. It was very unpleasant. It looks like the problem is in linear dimensions that are slightly larger than other rings. By the way, the adapter ring M39-M42 in it, too, was stuck tightly. As a result, I spat and bought ordinary rings for some of the lenses, black without a chip, and this was left for Jupiter-37A. The chip is glued crookedly: both on a nickle and on a pyadvak, in most cases it lost contact with the carcasses. As a result, I re-glued the ring and now everything is ok, it can be screwed into the bayonet normally. For that kind of money - a disgusting quality adapter.
Pyatak used the year and got only positive impressions. But I needed a live view and a little video, so I went to Pyadwak. There will be more money, I will buy a nickle again, while there is plenty to choose from, even if it’s lying on the shelf for now.
Like M42 glasses, Yongnuo, when choosing the first FF, that is, a nickel, was largely guided by this blog, which I have been reading for many years, for which many thanks to Arkady.
On the second patch, Helios also touches at infinity (
There were 3 spots. Two of them were out of order before reaching 100k run. I am now looking at pictures for 10 years and I understand that the color was only at the heels and all my STOs. Something is not right with the rest of the pile of cameras .. Arkady, I heard that from some serial number 5D we went more reliably, maybe you know what?
Hello Arkady!
In the review, write that you liked the picture and colors much better than in your Nikon D700.
And with cameras Nikon d70s, Nikon d40 how do you compare the color rendition in the pictures, despite the fact that these cameras are cropped.
Arkady - d40 has one of his favorite cameras.
The D40 / D70-D70s you mentioned are cameras with CCD sensors.
CCD cameras differ from CMOS cameras with more pleasing to the eye “colorful” color rendition. This is not for everybody, there are people who criticize her and who do not like her.
Hello.
I'm certainly not Arkady, but how can you compare the color rendering? I like something more, something less.
There were all the indicated cameras (the only one I had was d70 and not d70s).
And they are all different.
For example, D70 costs around $ 50. It's easier for you to buy it and describe your impressions of the color rendering of the ssd matrix)
Good luck.
Gregor_S
Since you are not Arkady, then there is no need to express your opinion on my question.
The question is not technical, but subtle-artistic for a professional and respected owner of this blog - Arkady Shapoval.
As they say, there are no comrades for taste and color, so I:
only Arkady's personal opinion is interesting.
Vladislav,
yes, sometimes people try to lend a hand to those who do not deserve it.
Perhaps this is just such a case.
Keep looking for the difference between 15 year old cameras instead of filming.
Once again, good luck.
Without any respect.
Hamlo!
Sorry for late answer!
Vladislav,
some comrades say the same about 6d)
Vladislav, you can buy for trial both D40 (as an option D80 or D70) and 5D.
All of these cameras are very inexpensive now.
And then just sell what you like less.
Please advise! Bought Canon 5D in very good condition. When checking at the point of issue, I noticed dust in the viewfinder. I thought that on the matrix or focusing screen, I will not clean it up. However, later I checked at home: there is no dust on the matrix - the pictures are clean. I took out the focusing screen, blew it out, looked at it - it was clean. But all the same, the same motes are visible in the viewfinder, i.e. it turns out they are inside the pentaprism ... Has anyone encountered such a problem? Is it possible to clean it?
"Has anyone encountered such a problem?"
Yes, I met on two cameras. The s / c has a compressed air blowing service.
Tk I needed to clean the matrix, then I asked the master and he did it for free.
Thank you! I wonder where to blow? ) And then I have a gas cylinder for purging the system units
Most likely on the inside of the viewfinder or on the surface of a prism. It needs to be disassembled for cleaning. If your balloon is under high pressure, it is dangerous to blow. Better handmade pear.
for this you will need to disassemble the camera
That's how I wrote what needs to be disassembled.
In principle, there can be nothing inside the pentaprism, since it is a monolithic piece of glass. But, in a pentamirror - yes.
the main thing is that it’s not on the matrix, forget it) The Nikon D5100 with a mileage of less than 3000 was already crap)
And what am I advised on the crop "take 10-22 to 24-105" and it will be happy ... "And I will even carry two lenses on a hike, but the crop ... Come on, we take the first penny and 24 mm from the zooms is quite a decent shirik already it turns out, well, if not 16 mm, but from a shirik to a portrait lens in one lens, and with a margin. Nice, light camera, the same 10d, but only full-frame, super!
Well, for the crop, there is its own analogue in the form of 15-85, if you want to get by with one lens.
And for a really wide angle - even more compact 10-18, almost weightless. 10 and 16 cm on a crop (or 16 - 24 cm on a full frame) is a really significant difference.
A friend of mine took the first DSLR from me yesterday - 100D with a native 18-55 lens. Went out with him for a walk, told him how and how. He took 55-250 with him, gave it to him to use it. Everyone is looking for the same. So this is just a city walk. 18-55 is the most inconvenient focal set for real use. On it, you can record a video with your beloved, drinking, children in the apartment, your wife against the background of anything, so that there is more wife and less background. 24-105 is not much better in this regard, especially on a full frame. A little more zoom for a portrait - that's it. Slightly capture architecture or landscape in half the sky, with tolerable blur for porter, street photography, and people-people-people. If these are models and a studio - approx. But in any camping or city situation, there will always be either too little corner, or too much. Either this whole mountain must be captured, or that bird. Therefore, in the full frame it will be 16-35 and 100-400, which is expensive and difficult. Or 10-18, 55-250, which is cheap and easy and of sufficient quality. Because dawn in Borobudur at 10-18 looks much better than the barracks at noon at 16-35.
I agree about the crop, which is easier and cheaper to get into the focal range. But FF somehow fell for me because of the picture that the crop does not have. Rather, there is, but for some reason the crop is purely outwardly not so beautiful any more reportage drawing comes out. I may be retrograde, but when I scanned film frames, by the nature of the picture and other things, it is the digital full frame that resembles film. Crop as digital-digital. But there is someone who likes SF, it is generally inconvenient to shoot birds there. I often think about Pentax 645d, I miss it this "fatness". Many people say that the human eye gets used to the picture with the SF better, this is its original natural vision, for example, a photo from old color magazines in a spread, portraits of artists from the 70s and 80s. Well, I still think that a full frame is enough for me to resemble this fatness.)))
SF is good, only this pentax is far from the same, honest SF - 6x6, for example. The difference, of course, will be noticeable to the "trained" eye, but will it be significant, especially for the purchase of a system (optics are not cheap, however)
What is better D7000 or 5D with 50mm fix? Namely, who works better in low light, and is Canon's color so good if you shoot only in rav?
5d of course will be better in everything, and sensitivity, and even more so in color, despite old age. The main thing is to get used to autofocus :)
Clearly, thanks) I got used to AF somehow by itself on the D3100, no problems
The answer, of course, is late, but the D7000 is definitely better in everything. Even in ISO, despite the full-frame nature of the nickel, they have almost parity.
The only advantage of 5D is the full-frame “volume” in the pictures. Which, by the way, is for some reason less pronounced than on my FF Nikons. I'm sorry about the optics, I only have 7 Canon lenses.
5d also has the most disgusting dd. I’ve only seen this kind of bullshit on canons and CCD matrices.
I would choose 5D if I had no money at all, but at the same time I would have a bag of optics for Canon. Otherwise, it’s better to pay an extra 20-30% and take the D700. Also ff, but much more functional
IMHO it’s better to look towards the second nickel (if you need Canon and an inexpensive ff).
The second nickel has no problem with the mirror coming off and is very durable in itself.
Many say that it is stronger than the D700, and I myself have seen second quarters without replacing the shutter with mileages of 400 thousand or more and they looked decent, while on the D700 the rubber bands are already peeling off, etc. Even now, if you want, you can find second nickels with mileage of up to 100 thousand frames in good condition and with boxed sets - recently I saw several pieces on Avito from sellers with good ratings. In my opinion this is a good purchase. Nowadays it has become more difficult to find inexpensive lenses in good condition at reasonable prices.
I can agree here. the second nickel costs the same as d700. The shutters last for both on average a little more than 500 thousand; the 700 has a problem with attaching the mirror in the shaft; the mechanism often wears out before the shutter dies. As for the 2nd nickel, I don’t know what classic problems they have, unfortunately I was not the owner of the second one. according to synthetic tests, the d700 and 5 of the second are approximately the same (only the focusing area of the second is confusing, it painfully resembles the 1st nickel). This is the case when Canon was able to, if the Canon system entails, then this is much better than taking the first nickel with its bunch of shortcomings (I had/have more than 40 models of DSLRs, the first nickel is one of the most overrated DSLRs by users in my entire photographic journey)
I downloaded the sources, played in Camera Raw and I don’t understand something, everyone praises the first-timers and FF so much, and at 200 ISO, when trying to pull out a shadow, terrible color noises climb, on my D3100 it stretches better! How is that? Or is this the standard for the Canon?
3100 is better
It is a pity that so, I thought the ideal option for a penny. I would have left 3100 if there was a screwdriver in it. Thanks for the article)
With canons, this is usually, the shadows do not stretch well
Why pull shadows?
The question is, why drag out the shadows so much that the picture becomes flat?)
This is a device of 2005, in my opinion it is generally the first digital full-frame camera in the world. What can you pull there at all
Not the first one, I just don't understand where these tales came from, that even the ancient FF is better than any crop in sensitivity.
Certainly not the first. The first was, in a limited sale, the late Contax N Digital 6 megapixel, and next to it was practically Canon 1Ds approx. 11 megapixels, and in 2004 1Ds mkII came out, and only in the fall of 2005 did the legendary Canon 5D, available for a wider audience, and my first FF that I bought in 2013 ...
Just try to shoot on it, not draw shadows, and everything will somehow work out by itself :-)
Indeed, in general, you need to shoot on film) Yes, and you don't need to take pictures, it's better to draw
There are a couple of points))
1. If you do not yet understand why 5d is better than your d3100, then it is too early to think about 5d)))
2. Find galleries of the best 5d photos. If your photos are already ahead of them, then it's time to change 5d to something more stretching in the shadows. If not, it's clearly not about the camera))
I know very well, and I checked one well-established statement that even in terms of the sensitivity of the 5D matrix, it surpasses any crop. The rest of the advantages of FF and 5D specifically, I did not dispute.
If not, it is at least on par with the latest crop models. Having also a pretty good color at the same time.
I agree by color. It is also interesting about the effect of depth and "air" in the frame, in comparison with the crop. Is this a feature of optics sharpened for FF or does the size of the matrix somehow affect these sensations? The question is not about 5D, but in principle about FF, of course.
Yes, the full frame of the digital is the heir to the film, and all the lenses of that era, which have the unique charm of a picture, sometimes a little distorted, imperfect, but so pleasing to the eye, especially in fixes and widths, continue to live, because it is the full frame that allows you to see the entire field of work of the lens. Yes, I also really like this airy volume of the picture, it is especially noticeable with a large pixel. Previously, a similar effect was achieved on crops, the cell size was similar. With a decrease in the pixel, lenses began to be made more accurate, meticulous and sharper in glass resolution. But something was lost instead of impressive graphics and geometries, namely artistry and sincerity. Yes, let me be subjective, but thousands of other photographers, namely amateurs who value nostalgia very much, will agree with me. By the way, I also like some crops, I really like 10D, 6 megapixels is not enough, but it looks like a film in character.)))
the shadows of all kenons up to mark 4 stretched poorly - their ADC was not on the matrix, so the noise was converted with the signal.
Interesting thanks
I have a feeling that the nature of the noise is completely different. I can't compare with the d3100, but after the canon crop and especially several fuji cameras, this noise does not bother at all.
Perhaps, of course, it's something else.
I thought about purchasing this camera, the reasons - the main arguments in its favor - full frame, pleasant color rendering. But, here, many complain about the rapid contamination of the matrix. Is it possible to clean it yourself without affecting the matrix?
Possible.
Depends on whether a little dust got in or vice versa.
In the first case, a pear is enough, in the second, you need a special set with mops.
added a vid about 5d https://youtu.be/JUy711VhR3s
Good day everyone! Please help me to sort out this annoying issue! Is there a way out of the situation, can something be done? For this 5D Classic camera, I specially bought a Carl Zeiss Jena Pancolar MC 50 f1.8 lens. When trying to shoot at slow shutter speeds (somewhere from 1/40 and slower), the following was discovered - a more or less uniform black strip appears on the frames below, and the longer the shutter speed, the slightly larger the strip becomes. At fast shutter speeds, for example, 1/125, everything is fine, which is why even the first time I used glass I didn’t know what could be what I’m talking about in the message. So I understand that this is the rear lens of the lens touching the camera mirror? It is noticeable at Pankolar by default. But it’s also not clear to me why at short shutter speeds everything is in order with the pictures: maybe the mirror also hurts, it’s just that, due to the fast shutter speed, it simply doesn’t have time to be captured in the picture. I tried to put Helios-44 on the same 5D - everything is in perfect order.
The situation, to be honest, is offensive, in view of the fact that I myself do not know exactly what to do: are there any chances to somehow fix this, maybe shorten something, undermine it? BUT ONLY under the condition that this does not affect the optical properties, does not change the output image of this Zeiss. I liked the lens and, as a last resort, if it can’t be faked under Canon, can it be reground to the Nikon F mount, of course, provided that the problem of the rear lens I described here on the Nikon F system will not exist, especially on cropped devices?
yes, it looks like the mirror is touching. Almost no chance
the same
Thank you so much! And if you sharpen the Nikon F mount, specifically for the Fuji S3 Pro camera, will there be no such problems?
Michael, email me savritskiy_dmitriy@list.ru, I will try to help in independently solving the problem with the hook of the rear lens. it is not difficult and safe for the lens - if everything is done methodically and accurately
They offered to purchase this camera model, the number starts at 413, do you know who this model year is?
What difference does it make what year? Look at the state of a particular instance.
I have a second nickel, and he wets awesome photos! The latest photos have hooked me with their analog/film/paper texture. I think this happened because of shooting at ISO 800 and in the evening in the open air. The effect is more noticeable if you increase the photo to 100%.
I bought a canon5d to try to shoot with old lenses like mir-1\zenitar\gel81\ind50\61\nikorr35-70\yup135a..... I liked the gel44m2-4 and nikorr35-70 mk2 the most. sharpness and color... but I remember that on the film there were more colors and more beautiful tonal transitions, even black and white were better. Maybe it’s a worn out old matrix or the electronics deteriorate over time, who knows, you can somehow identify it or it’s better to look for another camera
or remember that the camera has “Picture Style” menu settings, and in it there is additional fine-tuning of the programmed scenes (via the 'INFO' button). Of course, “the grass was greener” - sweet oblivion
Yes, of course, there is a difference in the styles in my landscape, it’s too contrasting and saturated, it seems the bright lights are shining through. Natural, and accurate, it’s more interesting if the saturation and sharpness are raised. If only they were loaded with more styles, at least 20 pieces
It's still possible. RAW -> LightRoom (any other name, like DxO PhotoLab 5) and millions of ready-made presets, many of which are designed to simulate film.
Interestingly, LightRoom even displays the camera model for color correction. You need to download a normal editor and check the difference. Previously, I saw the camera profile in Camera raw but couldn’t insert it...... I finally found the kodak gold 100 preset
“I bought a canon5d to try shooting with old lenses”
Are you able to focus with your eyes?
I'm not Sergey, but I also use 5D periodically with old manual lenses. There are no major problems with focusing through the viewfinder. Except that on many lenses it can be quite difficult to achieve sharpness at a long focusing distance (4 meters and further, on average). But in general, the defect rate is no more than 25-30% (in the worst case) from my shooting. True, it’s worth keeping in mind that my photography on a dime is mostly portraiture.
industrial-61ld under m42 1986
yup-137a