Choosing an amateur Nikon camera and a lens for it

Every day I get questions like 'which digital SLR camera to buy Nikon'. In this article I will share my experience on this matter. I have shot with almost all Nikon DSLRs with different lenses and in different conditions. Some things in choosing a camera for beginners may not be obvious, but believe me, in this article, I have thought out everything as much as possible and adjusted it as much as possible for the optimal and truthful options for choosing.

Popular Nikon cameras

Popular Nikon cameras

To begin, I advise you to understand what is the camera forthen you need to determine the most suitable class of cameras that are suitable for the selected tasks.

All Nikon digital SLR cameras are very easily divided into 4 classes:

  1. Amateur cameras (entry level) - these cameras are aimed at people who just need to get a high-quality photo without delving into the subtleties and settings of the camera. These are the so-called cameras - 'pointed and took off '. Most often, amateur cameras are best suited to people who don't do photography professionally, they just want a good camera for home, leisure, travel, family, nature, etc.. The main requirements for such a camera are ease, simplicity in management, reasonable price.
  2. Advanced Amateur Cameras (Advanced) - these cameras have advanced functionality with a large number of specific settings that can be dealt with for a long time. These cameras are suitable for advanced amateurs who at least basic knowledge of camera settings either want to get a good potential for mastering photography skills.  These cameras are noticeably more expensive, heavier, but still with the same intuitive controls as entry-level cameras.
  3. Professional cameras (cameras of the upper price range) - these cameras are created for people who are engaged in photography professionally, they know a lot about photography and are not afraid of manual settings. Typically, these cameras have a much better body, functionality and support additional extensions and capabilities. These cameras are not suitable for amateurs as do not have automatic shooting modes and have a specific professional management with a small number of tips.
  4. Flagship professional cameras (TOP cameras) - these are cameras with exorbitant workmanship and functionality, are needed exclusively for professional purposes. These are the cameras that everyone else is equal to, like a 'flagship'. These cameras are not suitable for beginners and hobbyists.

Nikon itself makes the distribution even easier, only professional and amateur cameras exist on the official Nikon website, but wikipedia also divides Nikon cameras into 4 levels. By the way, the words 'camera', 'camera' and 'camera' in this article, and in many others, mean the same thing. View a graphical distribution of cameras by category can here.

Basic separation of Nikon interchangeable lens cameras

Basic separation of Nikon interchangeable lens cameras


For beginners and lovers I recommend entry-level Nikon amateur cameras.

A camera is a complex technical device, and technology does not stand still. It so happened that in my rating cameras from Nikon can be traced clear correlation of camera output - the newer the camera, the better it is. For 2017, following this logic and other details, the best amateur camera is Nikon D5600, this can be seen from the nameplate below.

When choosing a camera, I do not recommend paying much attention to the number of megapixels, in most cases a large number of megapixels is not in demand and even unnecessarily (these issues are covered in more detail here, here и here). Once again, in big letters - think about the fact that megapixels in amateur-grade DSLR cameras do not solve anything at all.

Nikon z50 - a mirrorless camera with very wide capabilities, from very fast burst shooting to 4K video. Rotary touchscreen display and many modern features.

Nikon D5600 - SLR camera, interesting by the absence of a low-pass filter (allows you to get very sharp photos), a rotatable touch screen, a good focusing system, continuous shooting at 5 frames per second and Full HD 60p video (with progressive scan). By itself, Nikon D5600 stuffed with a whole bunch of all sorts of modern 'gadgets'.

Each Nikon camera model is highlighted by a link that leads to its review, which describes all of its features.


The question of choice is very much limited by your budget.. I recommend buying a camera that fits into your budget based on the ratings below:

Model Rating Exit time The number of MP Speed ​​c / s Point focus. Video Comment
Z50 1 October 2019 20 11 (5) 209 4K 30p with autofocus The best option for an amateur camera
D5600 1 November 2015 24 5 (4) 39 Full HD 60p with autofocus Very nice amateur cam
D5500 2 January 2015 24 5 (4) 39 Full HD 60p with autofocus A very good option for an amateur camera
D5300 3 November 2013 24 5 (4) 39 Full HD 60p with autofocus A very good option for an amateur camera
D5200 4 November 2012 24 5 39 Full HD 60i with autofocus Great option for an amateur camera
D3300 5 January 2014 24 5 11 Full HD 60p with autofocus Great option for an amateur camera
D3500 6 August 2018 24 5 11 Full HD 60p with autofocus Great option for an amateur camera
D3400 7 August 2016 24 5 11 Full HD 60p with autofocus Great option for an amateur camera
D5100 8 April 2011 16,2 4 11 Full HD 30p with autofocus Good option with rotary display
D3200 9 24,2 4 11 Full HD 30p with autofocus Good option, no rotary display
D3100 10 December 2010 14,2 3 11 Full HD 24fps with autofocus A good option without a rotary display
D5000 11 June 2009 12,3 4 11 HD 720p, no autofocus Bad video quality
D3000 12 December 2009 10,2 3 11 No Old matrix, does not work well in dark conditions
D60 13 March 2008 10,2 3 3 No Old matrix, does not work well in dark conditions, few focus points
D40x 14 May 2007 10,2 3 3 No Old matrix, does not work well in dark conditions, few focus points
D40 15 December 2006 6,1 2,5 3 No Slow shooting speed, low ISO, few focus points
D50 16 July 2005 6,1 2,5 5 No There is a focus motor. Very small display, very old camera

All these cameras are cameras. Nikon DX  (cameras with a cropped sensor format APS-C). All amateur cameras except Nikon D50, do not have a built-in focus motor and should use only lenses to achieve auto focus Nikon AF-S, AF-I, AF-Por lenses third party manufacturersthat have a built-in focus motor. Also, all amateur cameras except Nikon D50, do not have an additional monochrome display for quick setup of basic functions. And yet these cameras do not have an additional front selector (disk), which on more advanced models is located under the power button. Nor do they have buttons for previewing the depth of field, and their built-in flash cannot remotely control external flashes in automatic mode. These cameras do not have a mode high speed sync with flashes for shooting at extremely short excerpt. Most of these functions are not in demand for the amateur and are not particularly critical when choosing a camera.

If there are financial constraints, then good budget option there will be a camera Nikon D3300, which I recommend as Nikon's first SLR camera for beginners and amateurs who no longer plan to take photographs.

Real prices on Nikon D3300 with lens 18-55 here, with a lens 18-105 here.


Among advanced amateur cameras, the best is full-frame Nikon D750. If you don’t feel like contacting the full frame, then the best option among cropped cameras is Nikon D7500.

Model Rating Exit time The number of MP Speed ​​c / s Point focus. Video Comment
D780 (FX) 1 January 2020 24,2 7 (12) 51 4K 30p with autofocus The best option for an advanced amateur camera. Full frame.
D750 (FX) 2 September 2014 24,3 6,5 51 Full HD 60p with autofocus A very good option for an advanced amateur camera. Full frame.
D610 (FX) 3 October 2013 24,3 6,0 39 Full HD 30p with autofocus A very good option for an advanced amateur camera. Full frame.
D600 (FX) 4 November 2012 24,3 5,5 39 Full HD 30p with autofocus A good option for an advanced amateur camera. Full frame.
D7500 5 April 2017 20,2 8 51 4K auto focus The best option for a cropped advanced amateur camera.
D7200 6 March 2015 24,0 6 (7) 51 Full HD 30p (DX) and 60p (1.3x) with autofocus A very good option for a cropped advanced amateur camera.
D7100 7 February 2013 24,0 6 (7) 51 Full HD 30p (DX) and 60i (1.3x) with autofocus A good option for a cropped advanced amateur camera.
D7000 8 November 2010 16,2 6 39 Full HD 24p with autofocus A good option for a cropped camera
D90 9 October 2008 12,3 4,5 11 HD 720p, no autofocus Good option, badly shoots video
D80 10 September 2006 10,2 3 11 No Old camera with a good feature set
D70s 11 April 2005 6,1 3 5 No Morally obsolete camera, has a small display, few focus points
D70 12 January 2004 6,1 3 5 No Morally obsolete camera, has a small display, few focus points

Advanced amateur cameras Nikon D70, D70s, D80, D90, D7000, D7100, D7200, D7500 are cameras Nikon DX. Cameras Nikon D600, D610, D750, D780 are full-length, Nikon class FX. Unlike amateur cameras, all advanced amateur cameras have a built-in focus motor and can use non-motorized, sometimes cheaper type optics AF (optics AF S, AF-I, AF-P may also be suitable). These cameras have a monochrome display for quick setup of all basic functions, an additional selector under the shutter button, a depth of field preview button, and their built-in flash can remotely control other flashes automatically. All advanced amateur cameras except Nikon D70, D70s have very useful high speed sync function when using external flash units.

Attention: physical matrix size all-all Nikon DX cameras are the same. Physical matrix size all Nikon FX cameras, too, are the same. Matrix size Nikon FX is 2.25 times larger than Nikon DX. This is described in more detail in the section Fx / dx.

A good option for an advanced camera would be a model Nikon D7100, which I recommend as the first Nikon SLR camera for advanced users who want to get a huge amount of functionality for a not-so-large amount of money. There is also focus motor and nice control fast flash sync, a huge 3-inch display, the ability to control flashes through Nikon CLS, Live View mode and high-quality video shooting.

Real prices on Nikon D7100 BODY (without lens) can be viewed here, with a lens 18-55 here, with a lens 18-105 here.


About the video: Autofocus on all Nikon SLR cameras when shooting video does not work well or not very well. This is due to the fact that the mechanism of a digital SLR camera is poorly adapted for focusing with a raised mirror, which is required by the video mode. Typically, focusing when recording video occurs in contrast, rather than using the phase sensors of the camera. You need to be prepared for the fact that the speed of auto focus will sometimes be hundreds of times worse than with conventional compact cameras. If speed and focusing accuracy for video is very important, then I recommend thinking about buying mirrorless cameras Nikon z6, Nikon z7, Nikon z50.


I do not specifically affect professional cameras such as Nikon D500, D300s, D5, D4s, D850, D810, Df - because there are very slippery moments among the choice of a professional line camera. For professionals, this will be interesting performance plate.


Mirrorless cameras with Nikon Z mount

Nikon has full-frame mirrorless cameras Nikon z6 и Nikon z7as well as a small fleet of lenses for them. In general, these cameras are at mirror level. Nikon D750 or even just above her. With these cameras, lenses from SLR cameras can be used with the Nikon FTZ adapter. If there are a lot of troubles with accurate information, it is better to ask me on these cameras in the comments.

Equipment

Usually the camera is sold separately from the lens, this is called bodyand sometimes the camera is sold with some kind of lens, this is called Kit, and the supplied lens is called 'whale lens'. Attention: take pictures with one camera body You can’t take pictures always with a lens.

Important: usually, if you buy a camera with a whale lens (Kit kit), then such a kit will cost less than buying a camera and lens separately.

Native (whale) lens

There are lenses very different for different purposes and for different tasks. Usually, the camera comes with a universal standard lens that can be used for basic photographic tasks. With a standard lens, you can shoot landscapes, and close-up objects, and portraits - almost anything. Usually the most common lens is Nikon 18-55 / 3.5-5.6 (one of 6 possible modifications) Instead of this lens, I highly recommend purchasing a kit with one of the following candidates:

  1. Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-105 mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED SWM VR IF Aspherical
  2. Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-140 mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED SWM VR IF Aspherical
  3. Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-200 mm 1: 3.5-5.6GII ED SWM VR IF Aspherical

The above lenses are suitable for all Nikon DX cameras.. In online stores, the names of lenses can be specified differently, but they can be easily determined by the value of the focal length, for example, 18-105, 18-140, 18-200, etc.

Very important: choosing a lens is just as important as choosing a camera. The lens is sometimes so important that it is better to take a cheaper / simpler camera, but with a higher quality lens. Take my advice - instead of buying and using a camera with a lens Nikon 18-55 / 3.5-5.6 (or any modification of it), look for the recommended options mentioned above.

If you're on a budget, the best versatile, fast, professional Nikon DX lenses are Nikon 17-55mm f / 2.8G ED IF AF-S DX Nikkor и Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 16-80mm 1: 2.8-4E N ED VR Nano Crystal Coat SWM IF Aspherical. ask note to the fact that this is purely my recommendations and in each individual case the recommendations can be very different.

What do all these mean incomprehensible coded designations in the names of the lenses can take a look here.

List of all professional lenses for Nikon DX cameras can be found here (there are 4 of them).


The choice of other non-universal lenses requires a separate large article, but in addition to the full-time (universal whale) lens, I recommend getting a fast, discrete fixed lens. Such a lens does not know how to zoom, but it has a very high aperture. Huge aperture will allow you to shoot without problems in poor lighting conditions, control the depth of field (create blurred background in photos), create a bokeh effect, get brighter and more vibrant colors in photos. In good light, such a lens allows you to shoot at a very short shutter speed, thereby 'freezing' objects in motion.

Recommended list of fast fixed lenses:

  1. Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 35mm 1: 1.8G SWM Aspherical (for any Nikon DX cameras)
  2. Nikon AF-S Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.8G SWM Aspherical (for any cameras)
  3. Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor (for any cameras with a focus motor)

Usually the first such lens is the so-called 'half a ruble'(the last two in the list). The entire lineup of fifty kopecks for Nikon cameras can be found here.


You will find a complete list of all Nikon DX lenses. here.


Thoughts on optional external flash find in the section Which flash to choose for Nikon cameras?


How to check the camera upon purchase is described in the section 'Camera check'.


Recommendations for choosing a Canon camera can be found in the 'What kind of amateur Canon SLR camera to buy'.


Nikon or Canon? I have touched upon this question in a series of articles on this subject: time, two, three.


My experience

I had many Nikon cameras at my disposal: D700 (about 4 years) D90 (3 years), D80 (2 years), D40 (2 years), D200 (1 year), Nikon D70s (half a year) Nikon D70 (half a year) Nikon D100 (half a year) Canon 350D (2 years), Canon 450D (year), Canon 300D (half a year), Canon EOS 5D (1 year), Fujifilm FinePix S5 Pro (about a year) Nikon AF N8008s (2 years), many cameras of other brands (like Sony a7). Due to the fact that I am writing camera reviews and work professional photographer, then in my hands I held and shot almost all models of Nikon and Canon SLR cameras.

Over the past 2-3 years, everything orders I shoot on Nikon D700 or Nikon D610 (I take from friends). Also i like Sony a7which I use for the needs of this site. For home in 2015, I bought myself Nikon D40which I love very much for a pleasant color performance. In 2017, I bought and Nikon D70s, which is not a pity to use in any conditions, the gallery of images from this camera is located just below. In 2018, in fact, I got a gift Nikon D100, pictures from her can be looked here. I do not hesitate to shoot on old cameras, as I know for sure that the final result depends more on other factors (described here).

From personal experience I can add that choosing a camera is not an easy matter, it is especially difficult to choose the first camera, then everything becomes simpler and choosing something else becomes very, very simple. Take my advice - don't chase megapixels, they practically don't solve anything. I wish everyone to find exactly 'their very best camera', and also remember that important how to take pictures, but not by what means.



Alternative versions at the lowest price

If you have a urge to take pictures in your blood, and the budget for the purchase of an SLR camera is very limited, I recommend looking in the direction of used cameras. In used cameras are nothing wrong. For example, for only $ 100 can buy used Nikon D40 (or D50, or D70, or D70s, or D80) with a whale lens Nikon 18-55mm f / 3.5-5.6GII ED AF-S DX Nikkor. Even such an old DSLR will in many ways be better than some modern digital soap dishes and even advanced cameras with interchangeable lenses, such as Nikon 1 J1.

Nikon D40 body on the secondary market can be found for 60-100 ye - this is one of the cheapest SLR cameras of all time. For 80-100 USD you can find a pretty super-zoom to it Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-135m 1: 3.5-5.6G ED SWM IF Aspherical or Nikon AF-S Nikkor 18-70mm 1: 3.5-4.5G ED DX SWM IF Aspherical and shoot for your own pleasure.

My practice has shown that The following models may be the cheapest and most functional.:

On this link you can see my picture gallery obtained with a fairly old camera Nikon D70 and a fast fifty-fifty lens Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8 AF Nikkor (MKII, Nikon JAPAN).

On this link You can see my gallery of pictures obtained with the help of an old man Nikon D100 (Nikon's first digital SLR camera in a classic case) paired with a fast fifty-pound lens Nikon AF Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.8 (MKII, MADE IN CHINA).

Imagine what can be removed on a better modern technology?

You will find many examples of inexpensive autofocus photo equipment among my galleries. here.

You can still get old soviet fast lens, such as MS Helios-81H 2/50 or any other inexpensive manual lenssuch as Nikon Nikkor-SC Auto 1: 1.4 f = 50mm и study just super-awesome shots, however, will have to lose auto focus.

Well, if you are a real ninja photographer and want to use some unusually stunning DSLR sword for a small amount of money, then I highly recommend that you look into my article Legends go to battle.

And that's not all, if you really want to shoot on full camera, then you can organize such a pleasure for yourself for just $ 240. How? Read in the section 'Full Frame for $ 240'.

If you’re not comfortable with Nikon amateur cameras, you can take a look a complete list of all Nikon Central Control Unitswhere you can find the top Nikon D1 professional cameras, D1h, D1x, D2h, D2x, D2hs, D2xs, D3, D3s, D3x, D4, D4s, D5as well as top-level cameras Nikon D100, D200, D300, D300s, D500, D700, D800, D800E, D810, D810a, D850... By the way, Nikon has also created a very interesting camera with a retro body design and no video recording capability - Nikon DF :).

Where to buy?

You can see prices and compare cameras and lenses in popular online catalogs:



Results

Progress does not stand still, basically, the newer the camera, the better it is, but even with relatively old SLR cameras you can get wonderful image quality, since the photo quality affects not only the camera.

The most good modern cameras are (depending on the class):

  1. Nikon D3500 (amateur class, SLR camera, entry level)
  2. Nikon D5600 (amateur class, SLR camera with a rotary display)
  3. Nikon z50 (amateur class, mirrorless cropped camera with a rotary display)
  4. Nikon D7500 (advanced amateur class, cropped SLR camera)
  5. Nikon D780 (advanced amateur class, full-frame SLR camera)
  6. Nikon z6 (advanced amateur class, full-frame mirrorless camera)
  7. Nikon z7 (professional class, full-frame mirrorless camera, this class is not described in this article)
  8. Nikon D850 (professional class, full-frame SLR camera, this class is not described in this article)
  9. Nikon D6 (professional TOP full-frame SLR camera, this class is not described in this article)

To choose the best option, just decide on the budget and use my rating of cameras in the plate.

All prices for Nikon cameras (body or kit) can be viewed here. Or maybe someone will like Canon - you will find recommendations for choosing a Canon camera here.

I am constantly updating and supplementing this article. Last time the article was edited 11.06.2020/XNUMX/XNUMX (added information).

I don’t understand anything and I was lost in the choice!

Just tell me the budget that you are willing to spend on the camera and the purpose of buying the camera (what you will shoot for and in what) in the comments and they will tell you the best option. Anyway, ask any of your questions in the comments under this article (the site does NOT require absolutely no registration). You can consult me ​​directly on these contacts.

Material prepared Arkady Shapoval... Look for me on Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram.

Add a comment:

 

 

Comments: 1 917, on the topic: Choosing an amateur Nikon camera and a lens for it

  • Olga

    Good afternoon.
    Please tell me what would you recommend to change your D60 camera to? I shoot mainly nature, city, landscapes with Nikkor 50mm f / 1.4G and Tokina 11-16mm f / 2.8. In the future, I plan to shoot the same thing for the soul plus birds.

    • Seladir

      Something from the D5x00 series on a 24MP matrix was a balanced version, and a 55-200 telephoto camera for birds.

      • Olga

        Thanks for the recommendations. But D7200 - for 27 thousand frames 430 euros - is it a normal option? I like that the body is with a motor.

        • Seladir

          I won't tell you about the price.
          Do you have optics without a motor? It just seems to me that having a camera with a screwdriver is relevant for those who already have such lenses on their hands, or just 10 years ago it was relevant when such used lenses were much more profitable. Now it is easier to focus on optics with a motor - it is newer, sharper, it will not buzz and scare birds away)

          • Alex

            I completely agree, a screwdriver is not needed now, only extra weight

            • Victor

              It's like who. When you find a budget replacement for 85 1.4d or 80-200d (at least), then you can talk about the uselessness of a screwdriver.
              I liked it about being overweight))) How much do you expect to save? Gram 30…50?

        • Victor

          The d7200 has many advantages over the 5xxx series, and the motor is just one of them.

          And non-motorized lenses are much more profitable today as well :)

          • Olga

            I ended up choosing the D7200. In complete delight. Yes, 50 without a motor, before you had to turn it manually.

          • Seladir

            Can you give examples of such lenses?

    • B. R. P.

      If the birds are wild 200mm. will be a little short, better than 300 or even more.

      • Seladir

        I agree. For walks in the park, the Canon 55-250mm is enough for me, but shooting really wild birds somewhere in the forest is a completely different league with different lenses.

  • Lyudmila

    Good day! Please tell me which lens is better to choose Nikon DX AF-P Nikkor 70-300mm 1: 4.5-6.3G ED VR or Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 70-300mm 1: 4.5-6.3G ED VR or Nikon ED AF-S Nikkor 70 -300mm 1:4.5-5.6G VR? camera D5300? Does the mount with at least some protection and the versatility of the old model outweigh the faster and quieter focusing of the AF-P? still alarming, I read that if autofocus breaks down, the new model stops working, even in the manual.

    • Lyudmila

      I'm sorry, I was a little tricky with copying the names: Nikon DX AF-P Nikkor 70-300mm 1: 4.5-6.3G ED VR or Nikon ED AF-S Nikkor 70-300mm 1: 4.5-5.6G VR

      • Arkady Shapoval

        AF-P versions for d5300 just right

    • B. R. P.

      Outweighs or not - it's up to the photographer, based on individual circumstances. Then, full-frame focuses too quickly and not too noisy. The AF-P has a fully electronic manual focus ring and will not focus when off camera or if the camera is off, especially with a broken motor.

    • Lyudmila

      Thanks for the answers, I'll try what suits my soul during the shooting process and I'll take it.

  • Alexey

    Hello Arkady! I read your article and learned a lot, thank you. I'm a beginner
    photo amateur if you can please answer some questions I have
    1 If I'm not going to print large pictures and I'm quite satisfied with the size of 20\30 cm, that is, the A-4 format is a standard sheet and less, starting from 10\15 cm, will there be a noticeable difference if this is shot on a crop or on a FF, provided that the optics will be the same, the settings are also the number of MP cameras and processors
    2 It is very interesting whether there are tables of resolutions of foreign lenses in lines / mm according to the type of Soviet optics, in order to understand and compare them with Soviet optics used on film cameras. Well, or at least correspondence tables. comparisons. Let's say the owl lens Helios Ms 44-7 2.0: 58 mm has 50 \ 30 lines per mm, it is sharper than let's say Nikon 50 mm 1.8
    3. How realistic, visually better is the detail, sharpness if there is no AA anti-moire filter installed in front of the matrix, which is absent in some Nikon cameras, both in cropped and in FF.
    4. Is it possible to consider that the resolution of the FF matrices is equal to the resolution of the matrices of crop cameras I mean if they have the same number of MPs and they both do not have anti-moire filters, or if we compare the ff and crop matrices in which these filters are both yes And if we are talking about the center of the picture and the picture will not be larger than A-4 format

    • Arkady Shapoval

      1. for a4 you need only 8 megapixels with good optics, it will be difficult to notice the difference, but on a large sample of photos you can feel the difference
      2. no
      3. weak
      4. in general, it is impossible

      in general, a full frame is always about 2 times better than a crop in everything
      While such questions - no difference, ff or crop

  • Alexey

    Thanks Arkady. On the first giving questions I received exhaustive questions on the rest I would like
    if possible in more detail. of course, the point is that, I read, I’m sorry, I forgot the name of your colleague in the shop, he often talks about various cameras, makes reviews, of course you know him, he’s 45 years old, he teaches somewhere, he’s also from Ukraine if I’m not mistaken. he tells it competently, everything seems to be clear, he also claims that you can take a high-quality photo with a simple amateur DSLR, and somewhere I heard from him that the Nikon d 7100 matrix is ​​not inferior in sharpness to the D 810. it is the same Toshiba company, both do not have this AA filter I first time writing to you have not written to anyone before. I have a Nikon D 3300 and a d 7200 I took both from my hands, will there be a difference in quality, detail, if I take the FF D 610, which was released much earlier than my cameras, it has an older processor, focusing system, and so on, at a price in the secondary market, it even cheaper Or, in order to see the difference, you need to take D 750. or rather, it will be taken all the same D 800s or d 8100, I shoot mostly portraits of birds and nature. I want to ask the difference between FF and crop that you promise, will it be immediately noticeable without processing, or such a difference can be obtained only after post-processing the photo frame in various photo editors. Thanks in advance for your reply

    • Arkady Shapoval

      It’s better to take a d610 and normal optics to it than a d810 with something mediocre.
      Yes, in general, the difference will be 2 times compared to 7200 in almost everything, including detail, all other things being equal. In any case, you will need to come to the full frame sooner or later

  • Alexey

    I heard about matrices in the photo webexpo from Sergey Samsonov.

  • Alexey

    Thanks Arkady.

  • Alexey

    Arkady, please tell me is it true that when shooting with different cameras, but with the same lens with good optics, well, let's say such as sigma 85mm 1.4 ART there will be no difference in
    as the resulting portrait shots of the same subject. That is, a picture from the D 610 will be almost impossible to distinguish from pictures taken by such more expensive FF cameras as the D 750, D 810. Can't we see a visual difference? I mean Gee Peg's shots immediately from the camera without post-processing. Shooting will be done during the day or in a studio with good lighting, by the same experienced professional photographer.

    • Michael

      You will see only by the work of automation. If in the studio and as a normal photographer, then you won’t see, of course

    • Arkady Shapoval

      It is difficult to distinguish single frames, but at large volumes the difference will accumulate. At low ISOs and other things similar, the pictures are really similar, but not the same

  • Alexey

    Thank you Arkady, no offense to you, but as they say, it’s better to see once than hear a hundred times. I would very much like, if it doesn’t make it difficult for you, that you, or someone else who has a large fleet of optics, would make a kind of photo gallery for novice photographers, where you could compare the image quality, first of all, portrait and other types of shooting made by different FF and crop cameras of the same object but with the same lens. I think that this will be relevant and will save a whole army of novice amateur photographers from headaches.
    Secondly, if you can, of course, to me personally, but I think that many others will also be interested in the opposite, that is, to look at the quality of the pictures if there is one camera, one subject, but it will be shot with different glasses. including Soviet ones, since I believe that individual lenses, at least, are not inferior to the current foreign ones, but they cost much less, so why overpay, people don’t live sweetly anyway. Looking at these tests of cameras and glasses, I think every photographer will decide both on the choice of camera and on the choice of lens, otherwise it often happens that a person buys a camera and only then begins to realize that he bought not what he needs. just boiled up. To begin with, well, at least test D 610 D 750 and D 800e Sorry for some confusion Thank you in advance for your answer.

    • Joe

      > subject but it will be shot with different glasses. including Soviet ones, since I believe that individual lenses are at least as good as the current foreign ones, but they cost much less, so why overpay
      Glass is a material, lens is an optical system. not interchangeable concepts.
      Regarding “not inferior”:
      - the working length of many Soviet lenses does not allow them to be fully used with a number of modern digital SLR cameras;
      - Soviet lenses usually do not have autofocus and automatic iris control, unlike many modern ones;
      - Soviet lenses usually lose contrast more and create much larger glare in the presence of bright light sources in the frame, unlike many modern ones;
      - different copies of Soviet lenses may initially have different quality, and due to age they will be in very different technical condition, unlike most modern ones;
      - the resolution of many Soviet lenses is inferior to modern counterparts, especially significantly - with an open aperture;
      - few Soviet lenses have a variable focal length, unlike modern ones;
      - among modern lenses, you can easily find faster aperture compared to Soviet counterparts;
      - Soviet lenses often do not have a bayonet mount, which leads to inconvenience in use (they spontaneously unscrew when focusing), unlike modern ones;
      - Soviet lenses do not have correction profiles for cameras and raw converters, and therefore automatic correction of vignetting and distortion becomes difficult, unlike many modern ones.
      Soviet lenses may be of interest, first of all, by the nature of the resulting image, as well as their lower cost relative to modern analogues. To solve some problems, Soviet lenses will be quite enough. However, if convenience and ease of use, speed of operation, great versatility, stable quality are required, modern autofocus lenses are usually preferable.

  • Alexey

    I agree . Of course, glass is not a lens, it's a kind of slang word, but often they write like that on
    many forums, but I think that everyone who reads us here perfectly understands what is at stake.
    Now, at the expense of the working distance, if I'm not mistaken, owl rangefinder lenses have the same working distance as modern mirrorless cameras, to change the working distance in SLR cameras, there are various adapters, they make improvements with which cameras can focus to infinity. someone writes that some adapters degrade the quality while others do not, there are also such adapters with which infinity may not exist, but for portrait shooting they can be used without losing the optical qualities of the focusing lens within 2-3 meters. Of course, I agree with the rest of your arguments, since you don’t have categorical nos in your answers and you admit that there are such owl lenses that may not be inferior to their current counterparts. That's why I want to figure it out. It seems to me that not a single photoblogger has such comparison tests. I looked at Arkady's photographs taken on owl lenses, since for me they are of very good quality. So I ask you to take comparative photographs. If I'm not mistaken, resolution was indicated not only for our lenses earlier. Everything was fair, now we can only guess or see if the inscription SR appears, if there is a gold rim, and other often incomprehensible abbreviations, all other things being equal to the lens parameters. It seems to me that such comparative shots - tests from different cameras with one lens and with different lenses - but with the same camera both ff and top crop cameras D 7200, D 7500, D 500 will simply be an indispensable tool for beginner amateur photographers, I think that there are some professional what they can find for themselves by looking at these comparative tables, tests You probably have been talking in this and other photo topics for a long time, maybe you have a lot of practical experience, you may have changed a lot of cameras used dozens of lenses There is such an expression among shooters sitting in a trench for a long time and watching the enemy as “the eye is washed out”, that is, you seem to not notice what I, as a novice photographer, noticed and this may be relevant for many amateur photographers. Why step on the same rake every time, act by trial and error, or run around in search of the required photographic equipment to try how and what.

    • Human

      Sorry, but you don't get the point. Regarding the working segment, it was about SLR cameras. Next and most important:

      - different copies of Soviet lenses may initially have different quality, and due to age they will be in very different technical condition, unlike most modern ones;

      Therefore, such tests and tables that you propose to make may have some usefulness, but by and large they do not make much sense.

      • Alexey

        I didn’t say that Soviet lenses from such rangefinder cameras as Fed, Zorkiy, etc. can be used on modern ZK, although some use them
        really like macro lenses
        Now, by capturing the essence, I meant modern digital ZK cameras in conjunction with Soviet lenses mounted on SLR cameras like Zenith, Kiev, etc., and there are a lot of such optics like Helios, etc., I won’t talk about quality now, of course, they are already veterans, but nevertheless, many professionals shoot on them, lenses of very good quality come across, you can say like from a store, there are absolutely new lenses made already, not in the USSR, but in the Russian Federation at the Krasnogorsk plant. these days. Well, due to the fact that modern UPCs have a smaller working length, this is compensated by the thickness of the adapter from the M 42 thread to the F bayonet mount from Nikon, a lot has been written about this, and in different sources

    • B. R. P.

      Modern bzk have a smaller segment than the Soviet rangefinders. About using rangefinder optics on the SC - forget it, no adapter will help, even with a lens.

  • Max

    Good health to all!
    Arkady, a question for you.))
    Your task is to photograph the night sky, often with the aurora borealis.
    If you are buying the first, albeit used, camera (now I own a D40 18-70, and it seems to me that I have not yet become an expert in photography))), so I think that the purchase will be the first relatively good camera) and the lens for these purposes, then which of Nikon, from the height of your experience, would you choose with a limited budget?
    Budget $500 (in rubles 40k)
    Going forward, what second all-purpose lens would you recommend for daytime outdoors and travelling?
    Thanks in advance for your reply.

    • Arkady Shapoval

      used Nikon D600/D610 + Nikon 24-85/3.5-4.5G

      • Max

        Thank you. Nikon 24-85 / 3.5-4.5G is also suitable for night shooting? I was sure that for the night you need something like 1.4 or 1.8, even at least 2.8. Or am I confused and this parameter does not affect lightness in night shooting?
        Tell me, the d610 has the function of shooting series with the parameters set in the manual with specified intervals between frames (in order to collect a time-lapse from this series later).
        Since the terminology in photography is still weak, treat my questions with understanding. I'm sure you as a pro can understand me)))
        Thanks again🙏

        • B. R. P.

          Aperture will affect the duration of exposure.

        • Victor

          Keep in mind that the 24-85 has a stabilizer option. Which, if you shoot something inactive or immovable, will allow you to win 3 stops in aperture ratio, as if you were shooting with a 24mm lens with f / 1.25 aperture)) Although if you need to shoot something completely dark, like a night starry sky, there is only light lenses and tripod.

          • Max

            The task is to shoot a dark sky (no noise), aurora borealis and people in their background. Yesterday, for example, I had to find myself in such a situation. The man filmed with a canon (did not look at the model, but said that he bought it 5 years ago for 40 k.rub., supposedly a good amateur one). I helped with the settings and saw that the ISO was up to 6400, the focus points were around 39, the lens was f 4+ ..., the fastest shutter speed was 1/4000. A flashlight was used as a flash. The flash on the camera was turned on. I shot on a samsung S21 ultra 512 phone. Both shot on the manual in RAW mode. ISO on the photo camera was set to 3200, shutter speed 5 seconds, aperture 4, on the phone ISO 1600 shutter speed 8 seconds, aperture unfortunately not adjustable, automatic. By the way, RAWs from the phone turned out to be about 25 mb in weight, while the programmatically compressed by the phone itself is 2.5 mb. On the photo camera, I don’t know the weight of the resulting pictures. When comparing the sharpness of the shots, the overall coarseness of the colors and the detail, there is not much difference. The dark color of the sky is much more noisy on the phone. The sharpness of the faces in the frame is not very good here and there. I think for sharpness you need to use an additional flash from photo cameras (can they be set on fire manually? Tell me who is in the subject, I have not reached this question yet, and on the Internet no one talks about this anywhere, as a sort of self-evident fact, about which everyone should know, even those who have never held a flash in their hands😁). It remains for me to conduct an experiment with a flash and then the situation with the phone is clear.
            The main conclusion that I draw for today is this. If you have the latest versions of phones (Samsung, iPhone), there is no point in acquiring an amateur camera and dark inexpensive optics (if you are not going to become a photographer and you really need to acquire skill and observation for inexpensively). The latest phones have manual shooting features that you can also start learning from.

            • DmotryKostin

              “The task is to shoot a dark sky (no noise), aurora borealis and people in their background.”
              Try with a tripod.
              “The man was filming with a canon (didn’t look at the model, but said that he bought it 5 years ago for 40 k.rub., supposedly a good amateur one). I helped with the settings and saw that the ISO was up to 6400, the focus points were around 39, the lens was f 4+ ..., the fastest shutter speed was 1/4000.”
              Perhaps it was a crop - 800d. 6d fewer focus points.
              And for crop Canon ISO6400 is a difficult task (as for most crops)
              “When comparing the sharpness of the shots, the overall coarseness of the colors and the detail, there is not much difference. The dark color of the sky is much more noisy on the phone.”
              On the monitor with what diagonal compared?
              Why am I asking - a friend has just S21Ultra and night shots from it can be viewed on a monitor diagonal of more than 24″ inches - well, that's it ... Noiseography blurred by noise reduction.

  • Antonina

    Good afternoon. Tell me, please, by choosing a camera. There was a d90 that was made with legs, with an 18-105 lens, a sigma 24-70 and a fixed 35. I would like a full-frame, but now the budget is limited. I am considering d3, d700. Or something more expensive, but later. D750, 800 and 610 plus or minus in the same price range. Well, what kind of universal lens can you take to it. Again, something universal and inexpensive, maybe Nikon 24-85
    The goals are different. Photos on trips, people and children on the street, buttercups, flowers, shooting in the studio, product photography (we even made legs for a tripod).
    Automatic mode on the camera is not important, weight also does not play a role

    • Arkady Shapoval

      Descending Nikon D810 -> Nikon D800E -> Nikon D800 -> Nikon D750 -> Nikon DF -> D3s -> Nikon D610 -> Nikon D600 -> D3 -> Nikon D700

      • Antonina

        Thank you

  • Andrei

    Good evening, I have a choice, photos mainly in the apartment, children, cats, flowers, birthdays, general portraits, budget $ 250-300, Canon eos 200-250d Canon ef-s 24mm f / 2.8 stm or Nikon d5300-5500 Nikkor 35mm f/1.8g?

    • Specialist

      Good evening. It seems to me that the Nikon set is better, and the focal length is more convenient. True, I myself am a Nikonist.

      • B. R. P.

        For an apartment, “better” will be something that is wider, which means a Kenon set. 2,8 is a normal aperture, but most likely, the flash will still have to be used.

  • Sofia

    Good afternoon. Tell me, please, I want to buy the first camera in my life, I'm looking for a used one. I'm attracted to photographing sunset, dawn, nature, etc., perhaps a couple of home holidays. Please advise where to start. The main question is DX or FF and with which lenses should I look?
    P.S. please do not throw stones, but understand and forgive ..))

    • B. R. P.

      The main question is not “DX or FF”, the main question, sorry, how much money do you have) Almost any camera + kit lens (for starters) is suitable for your purposes. If there is a lot of money and you want to immediately jump to a higher level (technical) of pictures, then you need to specify.

      • Sofia

        Not much money)))) Chuyka tells me that I need FF))) Used. the camera costs 20-25, I’m ready to consider it, but I don’t know how much the lens will cost for it) If more than 15t.r., then I will abandon this idea for an indefinite period ((

        • B. R. P.

          What camera are you considering? You will note that the bu must be checked when buying, can you do it?

          • Sofia

            no I can not)

            • Sofia

              So what to do? Still not enough for a new one.

        • Dmitry Kostin

          With such a budget, this is something like Nikon D700 + Nikon Nikkor 28-105 / 3.5-4.5D or Canon 5D mk2 + Canon 28-105 / 3.5-4.5. Reviews of these cameras and lenses are available here on the site.
          Another nuance is that yes, as B.R.P. you need to carefully check them before buying and know what and where to look so as not to go for repairs (and before that you still need to find normal repairmen who will agree to take an old lens or camera into work).
          There are a lot of these cameras and lenses at flea markets. Look at the ones the sellers with the most positive ratings are selling, it will make things easier. Unfortunately, after February of this year, prices for photographic equipment rose, and the choice became narrower. As something for the first time for study, which is not a pity to drown in a fountain, I would recommend looking at crop cameras with whale lenses like 0-18 or 55-18.
          For example, Sony cameras are very inexpensive, both NEX and a55 and a57. They are often sold almost like new with minimal mileage.

          • Sofia

            Thanks for the detailed and detailed answer! Thank you very much!

        • Victor

          Chuyka is wrong in this case))

          There are many reasons for this, it’s a long story, just take my word for it - you don’t need fefe))

          Take a not too old crop (if Nikon-Sony, then something at 16..24mp), a whale lens, a light fix, and at least one external flash (for children's parties). All

          • Sofia

            ok, I believe))

            • Rodion Eshmakov

              You can try something like Canon 650D (100D, 200D, 250D…) + 18-55 STM to start with, or 650D + 24/2.8 STM + 50/1.8 STM. I recommend these cameras because of the fast AF in Live View mode. It is also better to give preference to cameras with a folding screen - it is more convenient, and the screen will be more intact. STM lenses are quite good optically and have fast AF. I have a very positive experience with the 600D + Canon EF-s 24 / 2.8 STM bundle, a review is on the site.

              • Sofia

                Thanks for the advice!

    • Victor

      If there is not much money, definitely crop.

      Better crop with a normal lens, fefe weeks with a mediocre one. And for a budget of 25 + 15 it will be a 100% irrational purchase, and a camera for 25 is guaranteed to be something old and shabby.

      • Sofia

        Thanks for the advice! You can, of course, and more expensive, but they will have the same runs. Just someone who wants to sell and puts the price lower. Anyway, I think so...

        • Victor

          For 40 if you try, you can assemble a relatively good kit on the crop, that's the point.
          On FF and for 60 something similar cannot be assembled in principle.
          And in the picture, the differences will not be visible in every frame, and in your genres they will not be visible at all.

          • Sofia

            Thank you! But what about advice from the Internet about the simplest camera, i.e. Nikon D40 or D80 for the first time? After all, you won’t find new ones .. Or is it already for experienced photographers to “play around” with natural color?

            • B. R. P.

              D40 and D80, etc. cameras are not for bombing, so the risk of running into an emergency camera is much less than, for example, the above-mentioned seven hundred and second nickel.

              • Sofia

                exactly spotted! but if you consider how old they are, then they have a lot of working out ..

              • Victor

                This is not a fact that the working off is large, cameras with ridiculous, “break-in” runs of 5 ... 10 thousand frames still come across.

                At a symbolic cost of 3 ... 5 thousand rubles

            • Victor

              “... to “play around” with natural color” - that’s right, more precisely, not with “natural”, but beautiful. This is relative to subsequent Nikons.

              • Sofia

                Thank you!

  • Boris

    Hello! Which option is better as a first amateur camera: Nikon D3500 kit 18-55 or Nikon D5300 kit 18-55? At the price on the Yandex market, they come out about the same now.
    As I understand it, the 5300 has better focus, a swivel screen and more options for more professional shooting. The 3500 is lighter, more compact, simpler, with a more powerful battery.
    What confuses in 5300 is that it was released 5 years earlier than 3500, and it is already in the archive on nikon.ru (respectively, you cannot buy it in recommended online stores).

    • B. R. P.

      Do you need an amateur camera for shooting?) SLRs are all in the archive now. If we abstract from all this, 5300 is more interesting.

      • Boris

        Not for pro shooting, rather for photos on trips / trips / hikes)
        Judging by the discussions, I realized that 5300 seems to be more interesting, but now it costs about the same as 3500. I’m not sure, however, that with my “experience” I will appreciate the difference)

    • Arkady Shapoval

      doesn't matter. They are all in the archive, the time of SLR cameras is gone.

      • Boris

        Thanks for the answer! As a beginner, I still feel sorry for the money for a mirrorless camera .. The same Z50 will come out almost 2 times more expensive than the D3500 or D5300. Although guided by worldly logic, I understand that it is better to buy something more modern (at least models that are still actively sold). But I realized that there is no big difference between 3500 and 5300.

  • Tatyana

    Hello! Please help with advice on which camera and lens to buy for it. The budget is not fundamentally important. I would like to shoot birds, at the amateur level, but in such a way that decent photos are obtained. I'm afraid not to deal with professional

    • Arkady Shapoval

      Good shots require understanding of the process. Either way, you'll need to figure it out. For birds, the lens is more important than the camera. The longer, the better. But these are usually large and heavy lenses. There is no easy easy way here. That's why it's important to know your budget.

    • B. R. P.

      Olympus OM-D E-M1X+300mm. f/4. Many praise.

  • Yuliya

    Hello!

    I like to shoot people in motion (dance and sports events).

    I am looking for a budget camera with a reserve for the fact that it is quite possible that I will be shooting for a fee. Heavy photos are not needed, the quality for social networks is enough (but, of course, when processing and zooming in, I want to see normal quality and sharpness)

    The budget is up to 60 thousand rubles, I am also considering used.

    Please advise a cool camera and lens for my purposes :)

    • B. R. P.

      Paid shooting on a budget camera?))) If your events are outdoors or in very good lighting, you can somehow get out with such a budget. But cameras for dynamic reporting in any way will not be easy + more optics are needed. With such a budget, only used, and these are old matrices that do not pull high ISO and poor lighting. Moreover, cameras with an exhausted shutter resource will be enough for you for a short time for commercial shooting.

    • Basil

      Julia, I wanted to answer you, give you a hint ... but I can’t briefly. But, I'll try: Usually beginners, having read the "experts", experience a quiet horror from "these difficulties." I want to buy and not miscalculate, not fly by, etc. Tip - don't push yourself too hard. There is NO difference between the cameras for many tasks (almost all), the nuances will come out with very complex and rare shootings. But they are also surmountable. Knowledge is needed, not technology. Having gained knowledge, you will shoot ANY story with ANY camera. The modern “digital” generation has grown up on a race of digital speeds, volumes, etc. Yesterday's phone, processor, camera is not the same, but tomorrow's is. None of the youth yet wants to stop and admit that there is NO DIFFERENCE. The web is full of materials that clearly demonstrate this. The best camera is the one that you have with you, in your hands, with which you, without hesitation, without looking at it, quickly control it and shoot from the fly. You need to look at the subject and not at the instrument. What parameter in the device has already become “weak” and you want better, faster, etc. only you can determine. With time. Look, here on the site there are many examples of how you can shoot on digital cameras 20 years ago. If you do not have your own oil rig, start with the most feasible option for you. If you have your own tower, then you probably know what to do.

      • B. R. P.

        It would be better not to advise. To her for specific shootings, and not “in general”.

        • Basil

          And what specific shooting did Julia name? Sports and dancing? What, in your opinion, does this require some kind of expensive or special apparatus? Well, not 20 years ago, but 10 years old is quite beyond the eyes. And you can buy it for 50-100 dollars. What parameter is missing for these shootings in the apparatus of 10 years ago? Usually the device is not at fault. Lack of knowledge - that's what they returned to.

          • B. R. P.

            I don't know why you are back there. You can also shoot with a smartphone. If the client is satisfied.

    • Neustrdm

      Try Nikon d500 + 17-55 2.8

      • Dmitry Kostin

        Kindness:)
        Used 17-55/2.8 in good condition will cost $650-700.
        I saw a new one recently for almost $2000.
        I am silent about the cost of the D500)

    • Viktre

      Even a budget camera is enough for dancing (ideally a full frame, but the crop will pull quite well, with light optics), there are a lot of options of 60 sput, it is necessary to specify the Wishlist.

      Further, for sports like motorcycle racing, cycling, swimming, running, there are also a lot of options in 60tr.

      Of course, everything is second hand.

      For chaotic sports (hockey, football in the halls) it can be already difficult.

    • Dmitry Kostin

      I recommend looking at fresh cropped bzk, there is a decent focus on a person’s eyes.
      I managed to shoot my brother on the Sony ZV-E10 and there the AF module tenaciously clings to a person’s face, even if he is wearing glasses, and even if he is moving. I liked 16-70/4, but this is not a budget story.

    • Yuliya

      Thank you very much everyone for the response!

      Paid only in the plans, now there is a desire to learn how to shoot people in motion (1-5 people in the frame) with some kind of blur from behind, to be more precise)

      It is clear that the matter is in the settings, but if the camera is initially selected on request, it will be more convenient to learn, I think so)

      • B. R. P.

        Here the question is not only to the camera, but to the lens. Something wide-angle (not over) and fast aperture is needed.

  • Sergei

    Hello, I have a Nikon d3200, in principle it suits me, I don’t shoot a video, but I don’t like the noise that immediately appears, you just have to raise the ISO a little. Please tell me some options, so to speak “not noisy”, can you look towards the UPC (for example, Fujifilm), or towards the full frame? My budget does not allow me to buy a new camera, I look at the secondary market.

    • B. R. P.

      bzk or zk - it doesn't matter. A full frame will help, if crop, then look for fewer megapixels than your 24. And, as a rule, old matrices are noisier than new ones.

      • Sergei

        Thanks for the advice

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