Nikon D5600 at a Glance

According provided by Nikon D5600 camera with lens Nikon DX VR AF-P Nikkor 18-55mm 1: 3.5-5.6G many thanks Nikon official representative office in Ukraine.

Nikon D5600

Nikon D5600 increase.

Nikon D5600 camera was officially introduced November 10, 2016 years and became a replacement for an older model Nikon D5500submitted January 6, 2015.

Please note that the Nikon D5400 model does not exist, this serial number has been skipped.

Nikon D5600 belongs to the amateur Nikon DX series of cameras D5x00. The lineup consists of six models: Nikon D5000 -> D5100 -> D5200 -> D5300 -> D5500 -> D5600.

D5x00 series cameras have a level slightly higher than the series cameras nikon D3x00: D3000 -> D3100 -> D3200 -> D3300 -> D3400 -> D3500. In turn, the D3x00 line is a logical continuation of a series of older cameras: D50 -> D40 -> D40x -> D60 (with a strange sequence of numbers).

The main difference between the D5x00 and D3x00 lines is the rotary display, but there are several other important features described in the table below.

D3000, D3100, D3200, D3300, D3400, D3500 + D40, D40x, D50, D60 D5000, D5100, D5200, D5300, D5500, D5600
Rotary display no Yes
Color depth selection for RAW only 12 bit 14 or 12 available for selection (except D5000which has only 12 bit)
Shutter Priority to Focus in AF-C or AF-S can't choose focus priority always works ('protection from the fool') can be set (except D5000)
Focus Modules weak, at 3, 5 or 11 points advanced 11 or 39 points
ADL (Active D-Lighting) Only ON / Auto or OFF Level can be set manually + Auto
Menu and number of settings The most simplified Extended

The cameras of the D5x00 and D3x00 series are rather limited in their functionality compared to the more advanced amateur cameras from the model range D7x00. The tablet with the main features by line can be found in the overview Nikon D7200.

Nikon D5600

Nikon D5600

Briefly about Nikon D5600:

  1. Nikon D5600 uses a 24 MP CMOS sensor without an AA filter, the maximum image size is 6000 X 4000 pixels. ISO range from 100 to 25.600 (without any HI 1, 2, etc.). Most likely, this sensor is used in some other cameras, including the previous model Nikon D5500. Approximate data for sensors that use Nikon cameras can be see here. The Nikon D5600 sensor has high characteristics, the noise level at high ISO is at the level typical for modern APS-C sensors. High enough dynamic range. In real shooting conditions and in most situations, the pictures will be difficult to distinguish from more advanced models D7200 or D7100.
  2. Responsible for image processing EXPEED 4 processorwhich cameras use Nikon D810, D810a, D750, D7200, D5500, D5300, D3300, D3400, D3500 and even D4s.
  3. Focusing module Multi-CAM 4800DX, exactly the same as D7000, D5200, D5300, D5500. The camera uses 39 focus points, 9 of which are cruciform. This is a fairly advanced module, which in a modernized form was used even on full-frame cameras D600, D610 и Df. Multi-CAM 4800DX first installed on camera Nikon D7000 in 2010. In general, it is not bad, significantly better than what is used in the D3x00 models.
  4. Maximum burst speed is 5 frames per secondbut only for JPEG or RAW with 12-bit color depth. With a color depth of 14-bit, the speed drops to 4 fps.
  5. The camera supports high speed bus UHS-I for SDHC / SDXC memory cards.
  6. Minimum excerpt synchronization is 1/200 seconds, the minimum excerpt 1/4000 seconds. The camera does not support high-speed sync with external flash units.
  7. Metering module exposure on 2.016pixels. Exactly the same as the models D7000, D7100, D7200, D5200, D5300, D5500 и D600, D610, Df.
  8. Video: 1920 x 1080 60p, stereo microphone. H.264 codec, 'MOV' container. The maximum video length is 30 minutes. 3.5 mm jack for microphone. HDMI type C.
  9. Display 3.2 in and 1.037 million dots (720 x 480 x 3). The display is rotary and touch.
  10. The Nikon D5600 controls are very similar to previous models.
  11. On board, the Nikon D5600 has Wi-Fi, Bluetooth and NFC
  12. Together with a battery and a memory card and a bayonet plug, the camera weighs 470 grams
  13. The camera menu is hidden many useful settings and functions. In order to describe them all, I would need to reprint the entire manual for this camera
Nikon D5600

Nikon D5600

Buffer

With disabled / enabled all additional features frame buffer D5600 is:

  • 6/3 RAW 14-bit
  • 8/4 RAW 12-bit
  • 5/3 RAW + JPEG L FINE, 14-bit
  • 6/4 RAW + JPEG L FINE, 12-bit
  • 11/4 JPEG L FINE

With fast memory card SanDisk Extreme Pro 95MB / s 32 GB during burst shooting in 'RAW 14-bit' mode, brakes start after 15 frames. In JPEG format, continuous shooting practically does not stop even after a long time.

Nikon D5600

Nikon D5600

Sample Photos

Convert source RAW files (14-bit) with the original Nikon Capture NX-D v 1.4.6 utility.

  • Picture Control mode: SD (Standard with default settings 3, 1, 0, 0, 0, 0, XNUMX)
  • White balance: Auto (with default offset)
  • Active D-lighting: Auto
  • Vignette Control: OFF
  • Under. noise for long Exposure: OFF
  • Under. noise for high. ISO .: OFF
  • Auth. distortion control: OFF

Zeiss Milvus 2/35 ZF.2

Examples on the lens Zeiss Distagon 2/35 T * [Milvus 2/35 ZF.2], for which a special thank you to the store ProFotoSale:

You can download the original photos in RAW format at this link (15 files, 400 MB).

Nikon 18-105 / 3.5-5.6G VR

Examples on the lens Nikon 18-105mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED Nikkor VR AF-S SWM DX IF Aspherical:

You can download the original photos in RAW format at this link (15 files, 400 MB).

Nikon 18-55 / 3.5-5.6G VR AF-P

Examples on the lens Nikon DX VR AF-P Nikkor 18-55mm 1: 3.5-5.6G:

You can download the original photos in RAW format at this link (15 files, 400 MB).

My experience

If you need an entry-level amateur DSLR camera, the Nikon D5600 is a very good solution. There are no special complaints about the camera itself, but there are serious complaints about the development of the D5000-D5600 line.

It amazes me how slowly the D5200-> D5300-> D5500-D5600 develops. All the same basic functional units are transferred from camera to camera. Additional functionality is developed in very small steps. Differences between the models need to be examined through a microscope. The same goes for image quality. Synthetics lovers already make fun of it for a long time. Since the announcement D5200 nothing dramatically changed as an image. Even the burst speed with a 14-bit RAW in the Nikon D5600 could not pull up, and this is when using a processor from Nikon D4.

At the same time, Canon can offer smart auto focus in Live View for photos and videos using Dual Pixel CMOS AF technology. For example, in the models Canon 850D and Canon 800D, which roughly correspond to the Nikon D5600 class, uses Dual PixeL CMOS AF. The same technology is used in Canon 250D, Canon models. 200Dwhich roughly correspond to models from the line Nikon D3400 -> Nikon D3500.

The situation is also aggravated by the fact that since 2016 there has not been a replacement for the Nikon D5600. Usually a new model is released every one to two years: D5000 (2009) -> D5100 (2011) -> D5200 (2012) -> D5300 (2013) -> D5500 (2015) -> D5600 (2016).

At the same time, Canon came up with similar cameras that can shoot 4K video, which is now a very attractive feature for many users. We are talking about amateur cameras Canon 850D and Canon 250D. APS-C mirrorless cropped systems (that is, systems whose physical size of the photosensitive sensor is the same as the D5600) in the face of Sony and Fujifilm also went very far and far ahead as focus during video shooting.

Focusing itself while shooting video on the D5600 is pretty good, but it has one serious drawback - high-quality autofocus is available only with lenses. Nikon Nikkor AF-P type, that is, with those lenses that use a stepper focus motor. There are very few such lenses (exact list here).

But it's worth remembering about inability to control aperture during movie shooting when using modern G-lenses, the whole house of cards collapses again. The reason for this is the old and not completely resolved problem of the Nikon system related to the lever method of iris control. Details on this subject are described in detail. here.

Most often, the Nikon D5600 is sold with a whale (i.e. standard) lens. Nikon DX VR AF-P Nikkor 18-55mm 1: 3.5-5.6G, sometimes this kit is additionally equipped with a lens Nikon DX AF-P Nikkor 70-300mm 1: 4.5-6.3G ED VR... Such a set will be enough for most amateur photographers. I also recommend buying such a set. If fears of a simple 'whale' lens torment the future owner very much, then you can look at universal lenses for the D5600 Nikon 18-105 и Nikon 18-140.

Perhaps the continuation of the D5X00 line will not take place, and the line itself will be replaced by mirrorless cameras, such as Nikon z50. Then it will be safe to say that the Nikon D5600 was Nikon's best amateur digital SLR camera (not to be confused with advanced amateur ones).

Nikon D5600

Nikon D5600

Materials on the topic

  1. Basic information on the Nikon system (lenses, cameras, compatibility, a lot of information).
  2. Nikon camera selection (models, recommendations, discussion)
  3. All Nikon digital cameras with interchangeable lenses. Their types and dates of announcements. Camera designations s, h, x, e, a.
  4. Methods and modules for metering Nikon cameras.
  5. Processors of Nikon cameras. Performance.
  6. Focusing systems for Nikon cameras.
  7. Sensors of Nikon cameras (who produces, which models are used)
  8. Which external flash to choose for Nikon cameras?
  9. Other articles on Nikon / Nikkor cameras and lenses.

Comments on this post do not require registration. Anyone can leave a comment. For the selection of a variety of photographic equipment, I recommend E-Catalog и AliExpress.

Material prepared Arkady Shapoval... Look for me on Youtube | Facebook | VK | Instagram | Twitter.

 

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Comments: 144, on the topic: Overview of Nikon D5600

  • Rodion

    Kitty is just a miracle: 3

    • B. R. P.

      The cat is beautiful. Yes, and Millvus is nothing.

    • Evlampy

      There are two of them :)
      And at least one cat.

  • Vladimir

    So they told about my camera))
    Yes, it's very awful when it is not possible to change the aperture in Live View mode ...

  • Dim

    In my opinion, the most significant drawback of this line is its work with flash: no flash control, 1/200, no high-speed sync. I have several cameras in use, when switching from D200,300 or 700 to amateur ones I catch myself in some kind of stupor or surprise or something - I can't understand for a while why the equipment itself does not do what it should :-) Even after hanging it becomes funny.

    • Alexey

      this applies to junior cameras of all systems. I take pictures myself with older canons, and when I pick up someone's junior apparatus, I wonder - where is this here, or how to turn on that and why it does not rob me as I desired? but it’s more funny than sad.

      • Anatoly

        As an amateur I went through all the stages 3100-5100-7100, now 500. Now picking up 5100 I don't understand how I had enough ...)))

        • BB

          The first transition (3100-> 5100), IMHO, is not logical, except because of the rotary display :-)
          I looked at the D500, did not dare to buy, because the control there is noticeably different from the D7100 / 7200/750, and I have at least two cameras in use, and they are almost identical in control. Price is also not in the last place, especially if photography is not the main craft.

        • Johnny

          Anatoly, you're just a marketer's dream.

          • Anatoly

            So I don’t make money with photography, I only spend on it. And I came to the 500 as exactly that camera. which suits me more for my tasks. I like to shoot people, you know. situations ...

        • Michael K.

          I don’t even know? I’m probably not advanced? I sold the D7100, now I’m shooting on the D80-D40-D50.

          • Valery A.

            How could you not just move the sliders to achieve the desired color, they say this is a couple of trifles (I myself can’t either).

  • witness

    Who knows?
    Can I buy a red Nikon D5500?

    • B. R. P.

      It is possible, but the lens should also be red. Or, at least with a red ring.

  • B. R. P.

    And what about Nikon’s official representative office in Ukraine?

    • Michael

      Apparently they will separately sell, like blends

  • Photo Cat

    Was such, sold and I do not regret. I did not like the camera.

  • Alexey

    ADL (Active Day Lighting)
    Active D-lighting, not Day)

    • Arkady Shapoval

      Fixed

  • Vladimir

    Interestingly, will there be something more advanced and mirrored instead of the D7500? And it will soon be 4 years, as 7500 will be ... .. Or are they going to rivet it for another ten years?

    • anonym

      With the mirror it's all over. They will not develop a new camera. So far, only release what is available and soon stop production altogether. And produce only the flagship 850, D6, etc.

      • Not a bot

        there were stuffing about 7800, recently.

    • Pokemon

      Partly here is the answer to your question:
      Nikon plans restructuring and cost reduction:
      https://photar.ru/kompaniya-nikon-planiruet-restrukturizaciyu/
      There was also news that they were planning to release a light version of the Z50 - Z30 for a new mount.
      It seems to me that Nikon and Canon will inevitably reduce the output of new products for old bayonets and both will leave the mirror.
      There are too many crop cameras on the market from different manufacturers for different mounts.

      • Pokemon

        Another curious moment - no one except Fuji or Samsung (who left the camera market) has made a crop camera with BSi.

        • copenhagen72

          Sony A6x00 series with BSI.

          • Pokemon

            No.
            A6300-A6400-A6500-A6600 are equipped with matrices without BSi.
            It will help make sure the wiki, Dxomark, and the official site of Sony.

  • Sergei

    For almost 2 years now I've been using Nikon D5600, from optics:
    Nikkor 18-140mm 3.5-5.6 VR DX
    Nikkor 50mm 1.8, and whale 18-55.
    In general, I am satisfied with the camera. This is my first SLR.
    The only drawback is iso, which is above 1000 noises are really noticeable.
    I often go to the mountains, I like landscapes and evening photos.
    I plan to buy in general it is not cheap for me Sigma art 18-35mm f / 1.8 dc hsm.
    According to the description on the internet, cool and sharp glass, although sometimes there are problems with the focus.
    But still, I am overcome with doubts to improve what is or save for a new one. Or maybe still leave this venture and collect on the FF slowly?. Who will advise what?

    • Pokemon

      It depends on how often you need to shoot in the dark without a tripod.
      If not often, then you can do with the purchase of lighter lenses and a tripod.
      For example, buy Sigma 17-50 / 2.8 with a stub and Sigma / or Nikon 50 / 1.4, and sell a whale and another fifty dollars. Or, as an option, buy Sigma 18-35 / 1.8 + 50-100 / 1.8 + 50 / 1.4, and sell the rest.
      If you switch to FF (for example, inexpensive d610, d750 (but not used d800), then you will have to sell and buy second-hand lenses with a camera and buy second-hand or new ones for a full frame.
      One must consider and one must think.

      • Pokemon

        Under crop, good lenses are expensive.
        For example, a used Nikkor 17-55 / 2.8 DX stands like a used Nikkor 28-70 / 2.8 for a full frame.
        As far as possible on a budget, you can go out, for example, selling everything except fifty dollars and buying a used or new d610 / d750 and used Tamron / Sigma 24-70 / 2.8 as a lens - that's enough for the first time.

    • Roman

      Sigma 18-35 is heavy and stupid. Neither here nor here, but aperture, but without a stub. Like the steam room, she is no less stupid 50-100. 70-200 / 2.8 with a stub is much more convenient, but it is also suitable for a wide frame.

      If it’s mountains, landscapes, architecture, then 10-24 or 12-24 is a more interesting set of focal points for crop, better with a stub, from Tamron or from Tokina. Go down to the ultra wide, you'll like it. Well, 24 on the crop is a very good working distance.

      • Pokemon

        "70-200 / 2.8 with a stub is much more convenient, but it is also suitable for a wide shot."
        A person has priority in the landscape.
        A 50-100 / 1.8 suggested to partially overlap the focal 18-140 whale lens.
        Here the whole question is - either go to the last and buy really good lenses, albeit with a crop, or go to ff, if there is a need, and still sell lenses for a crop and buy decent lenses, but with ff.
        And so and so - a waste of money, maybe something will have to be sold, and probably not for the money that I was counting on, but alas, cheaper.

        • Roman

          Well, something like 10-24 (or even 8-16, if you want to be really wide) is much more suitable for landscape than 18-35.

    • Johnny

      Yes. The best strategy would be to accumulate funds for ff. Expensive crop lenses are a bad idea. If you still want a good lens, it is better to buy a full-frame lens (for example, sigma 24mm art, instead of 18-35mm; it will be good both on crop and ff). I don’t know why the d800 didn’t please the local gentlemen, but I have this camera, and it’s great for photography.

      • Roman

        And I want to shoot here and now. And while you save up for a crop and you don't know really good lenses, Nikon will take it and suddenly end up, for example. Or mirrorless cameras will win, in which “good” is for crazy money.

    • Roman

      Go from the task.

      Noises at high ISOs are inevitable, noise canceling to help. Or a tripod that comes out cheaper than any lens. Because in the landscapes you need to hide up to 8 in a good way, and there not a single lens and not a single stub will save, if it is dark overcast. But even in this case, your 18-140 with VR will be more effective than sigma 18-35.

      Further, the landscape is a wide angle. The wide angle on your 18-140 is most likely a barrel. And not wide enough. Therefore, 10-24 s VR will give you the opportunity to shoot even wider, there will be no such distortion, and shutter speeds at 10 mm with VR can be in the region of 1/4 - 1/2.

      Just ask yourself a question - what does not suit me and what I would like to fix. And fix it. And do not listen to advice in style: I have X, take X - I'm happy.

    • Peter

      Sergey, buy a d750 and don't steam your brain with a sigma of 18-35. It's not about the noise. All modern cameras allow prof. frames. The main carcass + lens. 18-35 lens with disgusting autofocus. Even if you configure it perfectly, it will still be just the center point, the sides will be smeared. Yes, and the central one will not be ideal, I compare it with a similar ff nikkor 24-70, where I put it on the carcass and shoot it.

      • Alexey

        Sigma 18-35 on kenon works without problems, I adjusted the focus to my camera and that's it.

    • Basil

      Sergey, advice is good, but your own head is better. About landscapes. A tripod (good and stable) is a must. The remote control (so as not to press on the camera) and the pre-lift mode of the mirror are a must. No stubs. Aperture from 5.6 to 13 depending on the situation plus wound filters. Therefore, there is no need to chase the aperture ratio. Sharpness and resolution across the entire frame is more important. Autofocus is not needed for nothing, and if you do without it, then with such apertures you will still not miss. By the way, you have named very good lenses as candidates. FF will not give a significant increase, this is general hysteria. Lovers of bokeh and wide angle drown behind ff. Bokeh in the landscape is not needed, angle Yes, but you can get by with gluing panoramas. When you yourself firmly feel the need for ff, then take it. But most likely it will work out. Shooting landscapes still does not involve the high speeds required for reporting, sports, etc. And there is no need to chase after autofocus speed, burst shooting, buffer, etc. I am now shooting with a mirrorless camera and have discovered more advantages than when I was shooting with a mirror ff.

      • Sergei

        “I am now shooting with a mirrorless camera and have discovered more advantages than when I was shooting with a mirror ff”
        what do you mean ? what are the pluses?

        • Basil

          Dimensions and weight. It’s hard to carry everything you need for hiking and shooting all day on the mountains. Even if you come to the location by car, there’s still a lot of walking around.
          Second. The number of different interesting lenses in use has grown dramatically, including the entire fleet of remaining from the previous system. The presence of an electronic assistant when working with manual lenses greatly simplifies the process of focusing and determining depth of field. Third. A trifle. There is no need to “bypass” the clap of the mirror, which inevitably leads to micro-lubrication and negates all the capabilities of any super lens. Fourth. The notorious back \ front focus. Okay, the landscapes are not very smelly, but "sediment". Fifth. The final picture is immediately visible on the monitor, which is more convenient to correct when shooting, the work of filters and hoods worn on the lens is better visible, overexposure / underexposure - yes, everything is visible right before shooting and not later. Sixth. The movement of the mirror during the exposure often gave rise to bunnies that were not visible during framing. In the BZK, if they are not there, then they are not, if they are needed - here you are. Sometimes "hares" decorate landscapes. A swivel monitor is convenient and sometimes simply irreplaceable when you need to shoot by raising the camera on a tripod high above your head or, on the contrary, lowering it off a cliff. I agree, lifeview can also, but I did not have it, but I am writing about my case. And I got all this without loss in the size and resolution of the picture.

          • Michael

            I agree with everything except filters. The action of the polarik is hard to see on EVI

            • Alexey

              when shooting in LV, the work of the polarizer is perfectly visible, moreover, I just expose the desired angle of rotation of the filter.

          • Alexey

            on kenon cameras, shooting on manual glasses in LV (with ML support) is almost as convenient and fast as on bzk. EVF is not suitable for people with poor eyesight, I tried it more than once. in addition, not everyone needs to run around the mountains with a camera, and sometimes there is a desire to shoot with optics of the 80-200 2.8 class, and doing this on a bzk is very inconvenient, the camera is too small and it is inconvenient to hold it. even the third Sonya and the one with such optics is not very useful. in addition, sometimes you want to have a really fast and accurate AF, the ones that cannon and nikona provide it, which can not be said about the bzk. so bzk is far from a panacea. I would say that they are convenient only in some cases.

            • Basil

              Alexey, a friend asked specifically "for the landscapes."

            • Nicholas

              Pocheiu EVI is not suitable for people with poor eyesight, is it just for this reason that I use it more often?

          • Alexey

            “The movement of the mirror during the exposure often gave rise to bunnies” DURING the exposure, the mirror is raised and does not move anywhere.

            • Basil

              I'm not talking about a focal plane shutter. The lamellar starts working a little earlier, and by the time it is fully opened, the mirror manages to rise completely. Although, perhaps, the reflection from the lamellas gives rise to hares - I have not sat inside yet. I know for sure that there is no such thing in the BZK.

              • Alexey

                did not understand anything. in the DSLR, the mirror first rises and only then does the movement of the shutter curtains begin and nothing else. if something is not working right, then the camera is simply malfunctioning.

              • Ivan

                I’ll add to Alexey’s comment, in the SLR too.

      • Nicholas

        What good advice for a landscape painter. Just a fairy tale. Landscape is a very controversial genre. Why does this landscape not need aperture and the resulting play with depth? Pezage also seeks to highlight something special, it's just that our perception in this case does not work as hard as when we perceive a portrait.

        • Michael

          Because the plans, as a rule, are far from each other and separate even with the hole clamped. Isolation occurs mostly through light and color. Aperture is needed very rarely, and it’s very difficult to carry around the mountains of bandura 1.4

        • Basil

          Nikolay, I would pinch the hole even more, there would be an opportunity.

    • VasilVasil

      Back in February, I made this comment.
      Even if you drive an Audi A6, you still want something more.
      Upgrade or transition from D7200 to D750, my thoughts and impressions.
      First, let's see this link.
      https://camspex.com/ru.comparison.php?camera1=Nikon+D7200&camera2=Nikon+D750
      in which you can see what is the advantage of the D750 over the D7200 or the FX over the DX, this is twice as much ISO with the same SNR - the signal-to-noise ratio at the output. Otherwise, where it is better, where it is worse with almost equal functionality.
      Looking at this, I came to the conclusion that, you can get the same quality on crop by compensating for high ISOs, in particular, by increasing the aperture by 1,41 (ex. F4-> F2.8) and decreasing the ISO by one step ( ex. 1600-> 800) we get the same noise level as on the D750 (ISO 1600 - you can see the graphs on DXOMARK) at the output and the same exposure. In this case, the thought of replacing the whale zoom lens with a fast zoom or fast prime is obvious.
      There are, of course, other aspects associated with compensation for high ISOs through exposure - these are depth of field, bokeh, sharpness at closed apertures due to diffraction, etc.
      In this case, I focused on “toad” or “sober calculation” in assessing the winnings. Here I have indicated aftermarket prices when buying a new model and selling an old one
      D7200 + Nikkor18-140F / 3.5-5.6 -> D750 + Nikkor 24-120F / 4 + 600 $, weight 1255-> 1550g
      D7200+Nikkor18-140F/3.5-5.6 -> D7200+Sigma17-55F/2.8 +125$ вес 1255->1330гр
      I followed the second path and kept 18-140 for myself, after all, I consider myself to be an advanced amateur and I need a camera to take pictures of family, friends, landscapes and architecture while traveling.
      I will not be offended if this calculation can be attributed to the article choosing a camera and lens. At the same time, if the transition is made to a new technique with a guarantee and the sale of the old costs increases, everyone assesses the expediency independently. You can go further and make an assessment table for such Upgrade-s.
      I still have Audi but I want to drive a Mercedes. :)

      • Pokemon

        Even buying a crop (it doesn't matter Canon or Nikon) Sigma 18-35 / 1.8 and 50-100 / 1.8 and up to a heap with a staff Sigma 17-50 / 2.8 with a stub, you will not be able to deceive physics. Well, maybe partly due to the first-class lenses.
        What you described is theory. In practice, of course, it is better to have an FF and something from inexpensive, but good lenses.

        • VasilVasil

          ForPakemon
          I had the opportunity to compare for 3 months, I had both cameras. I do not deny that the D750 is better in noise level, exactly 2 times.
          But with the combination
          D750 + Nikkor24-120F / 4 (24mm / F4 / ISO400) and D7200 + Sigma17-55F / 2.8 (17mm / F2.8 / ISO200) the gain is no longer noticeable; subjectively, the D750 is marginally better, bokeh, depth of field are the same.
          It was not in vain that I emphasized that I am an amateur and the variant with the D7200 with a high-aperture zoom and budget and easier, especially when traveling.
          I continue to dream about the D750. :-)

          • Pokemon

            It fell a lot - you have to go buy it until it was removed from the production)

  • Nicholas

    Last year, I still sold it. No matter how I use it, I still could not get a beautiful picture, even changing lenses did not help. Some kind of empty figure from inside. But functionally, on the contrary, it seemed to me nothing.

    • Dim

      The “blank drawing” is probably a new very sharp and corrected lens, the “interesting drawing” will most likely not be sharp, with a bunch of artifacts and from the old lens. This is not a camera. Put on some Fujian Chinese for 30 bucks for a video surveillance system and enjoy, though you have to take pictures in “M” mode.

      • Nicholas

        I'm talking about the other. I used different lenses, both old and new (fortunately there are enough Nikon friends) These amateur cameras simply have poor quality matrices (not only on the D5600, but also on other cameras of the line, and the same thing for 3000s) Replacing it with the D610 right away put everything in its place. In general, I was disappointed in the crops, I don't like them, and that's all. And after installing Nikon610f85G on the D1.4, it turned out to be a completely different movie. And about drawing - why is it so widely believed that a good drawing must necessarily be associated with a decrease in sharpness? Good photographic equipment - photographic equipment with a large dynamic range and great opportunities in the field of micro-contrast. Sharpness as such has nothing to do with it, all the more so today it is easily achieved in almost any price range (at least for Nikon) .If to speak completely illiterate, then for me a good drawing is associated with a large matrix and large aperture optics, which is cumbersome and expensive, but worth it. Although I agree with the author of the article - the D5600 is a very good amateur camera, probably one of the best, and justifies its $ 600. True, I did not like its small size yet, it is not at all convenient to hold it in my hand, although my hand seems to be not big. He has a grip under the girl's hand. And he has no viewfinder, like all crops, but for me a wide and bright viewfinder is half of all art.

        • Dim

          1. Very sharp pictures, as it were, by themselves, due to their sharpness, are drawn to the consideration of details and approximation. Creature people are curious. Accordingly, during such examination, details invisible in ordinary life are revealed, and the picture is purely psychologically connected with these details. Lens flaws focus on other aspects. Plus, as a rule, an uncorrected field, weak sharpness and contrast add perspectives and focus attention. It's my opinion.
          2. At the expense of the size of carcasses, there is such a thing, after heavy and large cameras, small ones again psychologically, as it seems to me, are not taken seriously, this is also facilitated by truncated functionality and impaired ease of management. IMHO.
          3. When comparing shots, sometimes it also feels like something is wrong with modern multi-pixel cameras with noise or micro-contrast. I think that this is more likely a lack of experience with them.

          • Nicholas

            You say that people are curious creatures, and you immediately betray yourself as a photographer who works for others. But I'm just an amateur and I'm not “curious”. Yes, all this garbage is super sharp. I have already said that for modern photographic equipment, sharpness is NOT a problem AT ALL. But everything else becomes more and more problematic, and the further, the worse. You can see for yourself how, in order to meet consumer tastes, manufacturers have thrown all their efforts into this unfortunate "harshness" ... to the detriment of everything else. Go to any art gallery. Which of the major artists drew attention to "sharpness"? Perhaps Dali is the only one ... As for increasing the so-called detail in the editor, this is generally a gross perversion. How can more appear in a picture than it already has? And most importantly - why emphasize this inconspicuous, and even in such a brutal way? Personally, as a lover of good photography, I have never had such a desire at all. So I said that I didn't like the picture of the D5600. He with his whale (18-55 P) gives extreme “sharpness”, but I don't need it for nothing ...

        • US6IBD

          I am for sharpness, but ...!
          Usually, when shooting portraits in FS, I sharpen the eyes. There are filters such as “smart” sharpness, contour sharpness. Well, I love it when each eyelash is drawn and the texture of the skin is visible ...
          Somehow I tried to apply these filters to the landscape. The result is disgusting. Lost the volume of the picture.
          Everything should be in moderation. Both undersalt and overcooking are unacceptable.
          Now I don't even clamp the aperture for the landscape more than 4 ... 5,6, otherwise the depth is lost.

          • Roman

            Try another option.

            1. On a new layer Filter - Other - High Pass (Filter, Other, Color contrast) - and there select the blur radius. Although this is not the blur radius, it is the maximum size of the high-frequency component - the smallest image detail that you want to enlarge. From 0.5 pixels to about three, depending on the picture.

            2. Overlay the resulting layer in the Overlay mode (Overlap, in my opinion) and, if necessary, adjust the layer's opacity. Again, if necessary, you can apply "sharp" layers several times on separate areas, developing them using a mask.

            Such a sharpe has a much better result, without stupid halos and flaws of the usual contour sharpness.

            • Michael

              The CC Smart Shaerpen works pretty neatly. High Pass was good on older versions. + it is better to use it separately for shadows and highlights - then, indeed, you can achieve the absence of visible halos

              • Roman

                Well, this method essentially does this.

            • US6IBD

              Thank. I will try. I'm not a big specialist in FS, but I wanted to emphasize that in landscape photography, excessive sharpness is useless.

    • Roman

      They would try to compensate for the plot.

  • Vladislav

    Nikon's D3xxx line of cameras is designed for beginner photographers, they present users with a slightly smaller range of options compared to the D5xxx series, but they have a lot in common with this class of cameras. What sets the new D3500 apart from the cameras previously introduced by the company in this segment? Let's compare the new product with the D5600 and D3400.

  • Vlad

    I have been using d5600 for about a year, available 18-55 afp, 70-300 afp and sigma 30 / 1.4 art. I photograph mainly for myself, portraits, travel + some animal photography. In general, I am satisfied with the camera, it is lightweight, compact, it perfectly covers most of my needs. But lately there has been a strong desire to switch to canon, and here's why: firstly, disgusting work in lv. A terrible lag of the shutter, flapping of the mirror, the impossibility of changing the aperture. The contrast afp was finished, but only with afp lenses. With the rest - horror-horror. Why a rotating screen, if lv is not working in fact?
    Second, the presence of excellent 50 / 1.8, 70-200 / 4 in the canon system is much cheaper than nikon (2 times). Many other glasses (85 / 1.8, 24-105 / 4, etc.) are also noticeably cheaper. Hassle-free work with non-native lenses due to af in lv.

    • Nicholas

      I really liked this rotary screen at first) And even the trick where I poked my finger - beauty. True, after a couple of months, for some reason I completely lost all interest in this newfangled game. Through the viewfinder, especially if it is close to 100% (which the D5600 does not have), the only way to really feel the picture even before it is taken.

    • Michael

      Um ... Does the D610 have much better drawing than the D750? Are you seriously?

      • Michael

        Apparently, a friend in JPEG takes and picture = camera profile

        • Pokemon

          It is enough to use a regular developer of raw.
          And yes ... the color profiles of the D750, the operation of the exposure meter and, in general, the color vision of this camera is very peculiar.
          He experimented with different color profiles, poured amateur ones in the same.
          Compared with D4 and with D3s.
          Used full-time Capture NX-D.
          As a result, he didn’t want to get used to it and sold partly because of this, and partly because the camera itself has structural disadvantages from birth.
          Arkady, in his color preferences mentioned d810, d850, d4, d5.

          • Pokemon

            Filmed only in nef. It is interesting that the built-in presets for incandescent lamps (and especially LED ones) in the d750 are inferior to those in the d4 / d3s. In older cameras, color reproduction is more precisely configured. Moreover, revising old photos, I can say that visually, the color rendition of d3s is a bit nicer than in d4.

          • Michael

            There is a moment and the color profiles are peculiar and the RAV is crooked. You have to suffer - the picture will not work right away) But this is mainly for those who do not process the photo. Using third-party developers, you can relay profiles from other cameras

          • Nicholas

            The D750 is similar in image to an iPhone. Of course, I don't have access to all Nikon's variety, but I have the Internet, with endless examples of photos. Personally, I like the picture of their professional lineup, both the D810 and D610. The 810 is a little expensive for me, not to mention the "bricks", and taking the used ones ... boring. So only D610 remained.

            • Alexey

              Is Buddha forbidding to buy D3s? :)

            • Michael

              Buddha and RAV in Photoshop forbids twisting

      • Pokemon

        I already heard something like that. Moreover, in Radozhiv and other resources.

    • Michael

      If there is a desire to climb into the TV range, then Canon is better (cheaper) without question. His fifty dollars, however, are not very successful. I like Nikon's Gs more

    • Alexey

      Mon Sher is a typical victim of a marketer)) In the same way, many people believe that the 6D canon is a less noisy camera than the 5D MkIII, and all because in the sheh it is more aggressive and in principle noisy - marketers wanted to give the consumer a beautiful picture right away :)

      • Pokemon

        By the way, yes, I also caught myself thinking that the Japanese I follow most visually like (by color) photos from (descending): 1Dx mk2 / 1Dx, 5D mk4, 6D, 5Ds / 5DsR.

        • Alexey

          khm) but what about 1DsMkII or III - really not to your liking?

          • Pokemon

            Those Japanese on flickr, to whom I subscribed, do not have these cameras.
            They are strange people in themselves - they are very fond of everything new and the most modern and can change cameras that have not yet become outdated even when there is no particular sense in this. For example, replacing d610- > d750- > z6, 6D- > 6D mk2, 5D mk4- > Eos R, 5D mk2- > 2 different cameras m4 / 3-> A7m2.
            Of the old cameras, only film ones are found.

            • Alexey

              She, you see, have already grasped Zen ... This is not given to us, alas :)

            • Ivan

              They are not strange, they have a different income level (Japan has the highest salaries in the world).

    • Alexey

      and returning to Father Nikon, you can recall the beautiful D3s, the price of which will not ruin anyone. and for a very modest budget, there are D2Xs, with excellent color and sharpness immediately in JPEG. (yes, crop, so what?)

    • Michael

      Vlad, I would recommend not to rush this summer)
      Coronavirus restricts travel and shooting, especially you can’t walk around.
      This summer, according to rumors, Nikon Z5 (a competitor to Canon RP) should come out, Sony is up to something, maybe the camera in this segment will also be announced, the Canon RF 85mm f / 2 Macro IS STM is also expected for this year.
      I am in a similar situation, I want to assemble a light set of Crop + f1.4 lenses or FF + f1.8 lenses while in “standby” mode.

      • Vlad

        It is important for me that the system has a high-quality standard fast aperture (the same sigma) and an inexpensive 70-200 (an ideal tool for animated photos and a universal portrait), as well as normal work in lv. Well, and some other whale as a travel zoom, quality is already less important here. Based on this, the Canon system looks the most attractive

        • Alexey

          sigma non-art series has problems with focus, and the art series is expensive, 70-200 4.0 is very dark glass, you can shoot only in good light.

          • Vlad

            Art series is still cheaper than native glass, especially since there is lv. And Canon has a relatively inexpensive 70-200 / 2.8, which is without a stub. For animals, only short exposures, no stab. Used can be found for $ 500. And 70-200 / 4 in general for $ 250

            • Alexey

              Well, if so, then the magic drain pipe is better, it is both cheaper and more reliable.

              • Vlad

                I had not even heard of him before. And why is it better than the first usm version? It seems like it costs the same, it's much harder to find

            • Alexey

              I will not answer quite there, because the branch is cut. The “magic drainpipe” is a legend. Nikon has the same. old, reliable as a tank, heavy, and even black in appearance - norot is not so scared and the thieves do not look - they are accustomed to white glass. but seriously, it is noticeably cheaper than any modern glass with the same parameters, but more reliable. AF is slow and noisy, it is. but it won't break like USM either. better weather protection than newer ones. I know people who have two such pipes - "just in case"

              • Vlad

                Interesting. Offhand I found only 2-3 ads, the same - / + $ 500. And how slow is AF - can you catch animals in tracking mode?

  • fiat124

    Dear photographers, I recently bought a Nikon D5600 with a whale lens 18-140mm, this is my first SLR, I decided to learn the world of photography with this model.
    I have a question for you, is it possible to buy full-frame lenses for the D5600, with an eye to the future, in order to switch to “full frame” in the future?
    I wonder how such lenses behave on the D5600.
    Will quality deteriorate dramatically compared to DX lenses?
    Like several lenses:
    For portrait photography - Tamron SP 85mm F1.8 Di VC USD
    Macro - Sigma AF 105mm f / 2.8 Macro EX DG OS HSM
    For landscape

    Interested in landscape, macro, growth, facial, waist-length portraits.

    Thank you in advance)

    • Ivan

      FX lenses behave the same as DX. Quality, by definition, cannot be degraded.

    • Trueash

      The lens does not know what is behind it.

      • Vlad

        The lens does not know, but some FF lenses are designed for the pixel density of the FF matrix, which is much lower than that of crop. That is, on crop these lenses are likely to be less sharp. But this applies mainly to old or budget models. On the other hand, FF lenses cover a larger frame size, so there will be no vignettes and soap corners / edges on the crop. After all, only a sharp center works

    • Roman

      In most cases, everything from 50 mm and specialized makes sense to take full-frame. Especially with your 18-140. At the long end, it can be in a pair of 100-400 from Tamron or Sigma.

      The landscape needs a wide, and full-frame wides are very expensive and still not wide enough. Native 14-24, for example, and especially 17-35 will give a better picture, but not much wider angle. Therefore, the width on the crop is only for crop. 10-24, 10-20, 8-16 will close your ultra-wide range from and to.

      Of your choice. The 85 and 105, although very different lenses, are very close in focus (and equally inconvenient). For full-fledged portraits, you will need either a huge studio or a street and go somewhere far away, especially for a full-length one.

      Sigma 105 / 2.8 can cope with portrait shooting functions, it is fast enough, it has a stub. It is advisable to take something much wider with the second lens. For example, the same Tamron 45 / 1.8 with a stub. On a full frame it will be a good staff, on a crop - a moderate portrait telephoto. If there are a lot of lenses, you can take different options for yourself - this is small for travel, and this is a fast one, and when you just start shooting, play enough with the whale and think about what you are missing. Apertures at available range, long end or wide.

      • fiat124

        Thanks a lot, everyone)

  • Tatyana

    Hello. Can you tell a spare battery (in addition to the native) to the nikon d5600? Thank.

  • Vlad

    D5600 in double-kit is equipped with afp 70-300 without vr. And it's very sad, it's not very fun to shoot on 450 mm without a stub

  • Vlad

    Good afternoon, Arkady. I am the owner of d5600. This camera has a pretty good focusing system in lv, so I use it a lot. And I noticed one incomprehensible feature. When I zoomed in on the lv as much as possible, I see more detail than the final image. The inscriptions, which I can read through lv with magnification, are blurry and unreadable in the picture. I tested it with different lenses at different aperture values, with a tripod and with a stabilizer, in raw and jpeg, with different sharpness settings in the picture control. Always the same result. What could be the reason and how to fix it? Yours faithfully

    • Alexey

      there is no way to fix it. this is a feature of all nikon cameras - an increase in the karinka more than 100%
      I swore many times about this, and not only on this topic with the engineers and employees of Nikon - to no avail. their marketers decided it was more convenient for the consumer.
      but, in general, I don’t care, because I shoot only on kenon, where there are no strange problems, and on nikon from time to time, although I have cameras from both companies.

      • Vlad

        It's not about the degree of magnification, I can increase in lightroom even to individual pixels, but in live view, the detail is still higher.

        • Alexey

          that's exactly what I wrote about. I speak as a programmer :)) when viewing the footage the same cant.

          • Vlad

            As a result, this means that there are extra details somewhere, but they are lost at the stage of image processing / compression / recording, so it turns out?

            • Alexey

              what is digital zoom you know? this is it. there are no additional details there. once again, marketers have smoked what they usually smoke there.

              • Vlad

                That is, when I zoom in to lv, I see, roughly speaking, an interpolated image with a twisted peel?

      • Victor

        Canon has its own weird problems.

        • Alexey

          yes there are no strange problems canon. we are talking about normal cameras, and not about amateur soap dishes.

          • Victor

            It would be nice to clarify - normal - which ones?

            • Alexey

              at least two numbered. but in general normal - all 5D, except for the very first and all units. I repeat - there are no strange (read - inexplicable from an engineering point of view or simple common sense) glitches or problems on the canons. but in general there are problems, and there are many mistakes. part I know why it arose, and the other part - canon does not answer in principle))

    • Victor

      I think that once everything has been checked, there is no way to fix it. The entire 24 MP series has excellent detailing in the final picture, almost the best among crops (we don't even consider a noisy Canon 90d on the base ISO with a soapy picture on most lenses), if it's not enough, your path lies to full-frame models from 36MP and above.

      • Vlad

        The problem is rather not that what is missing, but that if there is this increased detail, then I would like to use it. It's not for nothing that we invest in high-quality optics. For example, the resolution of my 30 1.4 sigma at f2.8 is so high that I can see moiré on small textures in lv. What is called razor sharpness. And in the final picture - it's still porridge and dregs

        • Alexey

          horses, people mixed in a heap ...
          the final frame in what format? and what do they do with it? Is there any processing or not?

          • Vlad

            The resulting frame is jpeg in maximum quality and nef, lossless compression. Without processing

            • Alexey

              here is the answer - WITHOUT processing.

        • Alexey

          and the moire is not visible at all because of the high resolution of the optics.

          • Victor

            Not for a reason, but on a soapy lens it will not appear on a matrix without an anti-moor filter, but on a sharp one - please.

            • Alexey

              will appear on anyone. the point is not at all in this, but in how the downscale of the picture is implemented in liveview. I mean, moire is just software artifacts and that's it))

      • Vlad

        At the same time, kit 18-55 af-p provides the same quality of the final image. Although in lv the difference with sigma is visible. The question is, then why pay more?

        • Victor

          Perhaps the problem is exactly the d5600 (perhaps your model, xs), I did not have this camera. If the detail is equally weak, even from the fix to the covered ones.

          In general, detailing on fixes above the roof is usually the same as for a crop.

  • Paul

    I am not writing about the camera, but about your website .. damn, I don’t want to be rude, as if softer .. you read the article and it jumps because of advertising! I can't finish reading I want to leave right away, does advertising bring you a lot of money? make a high-quality website, make money on something else, or place an advertisement so that it does not interfere with reading the article ..

    • B. R. P.

      I am viewing the site without ads. It's strange why? Probably because there is an ad block in the browser. Set yourself if you master it and see how much advertising there really is. You didn't want to be rude, but it turned out both rude and stupid.

      • Seladir

        Now the adblock installation would be presented as something remarkable.
        For example, I have an ad block by default, but I add sites with unobtrusive ads and original content to the whitelist. Of course, I'm happy not among them, here the aggressiveness of advertising is beyond common sense.

        • Alexey

          it's easier for me - everything unnecessary is written in hosts.

          • Seladir

            On the one hand, it's kind of simple. On the other hand, you need to manually keep the hosts up-to-date, plus the adblock additionally modifies the html-code of the page so that in some cases there are no empty blocks left in place of the advertisement.

            • Alexey

              Yes, manually and I prescribe if, suddenly, something new comes out. Well, pacifiers in place of banners do not bother me.
              I have been doing this for over 20 years, since the days when there was dial up, then this greatly reduced the page load time.

  • Sergei

    Please give advice on autofocus.
    I have this 5600 carcass and several lenses, 3 lenses go to the front focus (through the viewfinder), namely the kit Nikon 18-105, Nikon 35 1.8, Tokina 11-16 DX II. There is also Nikon 85 1.8, everything is fine with it. Live View is precisely in focus on all lenses.

    What could be the problem, the carcass or the lenses themselves?
    If you need alignment, where is a good service in Ukraine to contact?
    Thanks in advance for your advice!

  • Sergiy

    After shooting in Self-Timer mode, the Nikon D5600 switches the mode to quiet or single frame by itself. This is very inconvenient when shooting in this mode all the time. I did not find such a problem on the Internet.
    No matter how many frames are set in the setting, it will take them and then switch the mode to “Q”.
    If you turn off and on the unit in the self-timer mode, it will turn on already in single-frame “S”.
    The firmware costs 1.10 Re-flashing with the same firmware does not give anything.
    Perhaps someone faced such a problem?

    • Sergiy

      I found information: "Nikon D3400 does not remember the self-timer setting, it has to be turned on again every time for the next shot - this is terribly inconvenient." source
      This is really awful ... Why do that? And if the D3400 has an infrared port, then the D5600 has removed it ...
      I asked a friend to check on the D5200 - the mode remains there ...
      Snapbridge works in live view, and in live view in low light, autofocus practically does not work.
      The wireless remote for the D5600 is expensive and hardly sold.
      I have no experience with wired ones. Tell me, does the wire not move the camera on the tripod?

      • Ivan

        It depends on what kind of tripod.

      • Ivan

        By the way, why a wired remote control? Isn't it easier to install Snapbridge on your smartphone and connect via Bluetooth?
        https://www.nikon.ru/ru_RU/product/software/snapbridge

        • Sergiy

          Snapbridge works in live view, and contrast autofocus requires brightness. Self-timer is needed even when there is little light.

          • Ivan

            Yes, I see you have already written above. I missed it.

  • Alexander

    Can you please tell me how to shoot video to them on external media (using an HDMI cable)?

  • Delta

    Tell me what to do if even on daytime photos in cloudy weather or indoors, even at relatively low ISOs like 400, hot pixels in the form of small crosses are visible. Several white ones are red and a couple of blue ones, they are all located in different places of the frame. From photo to photo, they hang in the same place and these are not 100% dust particles. Can you somehow remove this and in general has this become the norm for modern cameras and matrices? For some reason I thought that hot pixels should be at high ISO damn it, and not at 200-400 and not during the day.

    • Specialist

      I had a similar one on d600. While I was thinking how to fix it, I accidentally applied "clear the matrix now" - and this pair of unpleasant red dots disappeared.

    • Ivan

      This happens. It is “treated” by the service program.

      • Specialist

        And it happens, it turns out, and like me. If you have read.

  • SERGOS

    Unhappy Nikonists, how many problems you have on Nikon. Well, you can see for yourself that they are lagging behind Nikon, I judge from your comments. My opinion is the following: all devices, starting from 3300 ... maximum sharpness for little money. marketers somehow strangely did not focus on this improvement, but in vain. then they gave a blunder. thanks to Arkady, I wondered in the reviews. if not this, I wouldn't buy NIKON. d2x has been gathering dust for several years \ akb has covered itself \ .. instead of akb I took sony nex5n for the same price and I'm not overjoyed, and forgot about nef * s and raw * s and the white balance does not torment. and, most importantly, you can stick in almost any lens. the filter, alas, is in stock and 100% cropped is visible. here I will try to test 5300. for the price on the secondary \\ while \\ from 12tr from 18-55 is very acceptable

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