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In the comments, you can ask a question on the topic and they will answer you, as well as you can express your opinion or describe your experience. For the selection of photographic equipment, I recommend large catalogs, for example E-Catalog. Many little things for the photo can be found on AliExpress.
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The material was prepared by Arkady Shapoval. My Youtube channeland Radozhiva's group on Facebook и VK.
Good for all ! Very sensible site, great respect to the one who leads. Please tell me: You need to choose a camera (intuitively, according to what you read, I like Nikon cameras) for shooting painted pictures at home (a room with a maximum camera-canvas distance of 5 meters). Excellent quality is required for an Internet resource in the United States for potential gallery owners and collectors. Thanks in advance.
I will add: ... paintings measuring 1.2 mx 1,2 m
budget?
Budget: I would like to keep within 20 rubles, ... can be used
Small budget. For excellent quality, you also need an excellent lens and, possibly, additional lighting. Problem.
Nikon d7000 but this is with a kit lens, no light and a tripod.
If there are more than a dozen paintings a day, get a medium format film camera, good tripod and light. For delivery - film, development, scanning.
I think that SF is superfluous here + fiddling with film, developing, scanning. It seems that a person needs the shortest path to get the result.
Development and scanning only in a good Laba, otherwise money is down the drain.
"Budget: I would like to keep within 20 rubles, ... you can use it"
Sound the list, preferably with an AF lens included :)
So, for example, a new lens in the Nikon AF Nikkor 50 f / 1,8 D store - 7'990 rubles, used cameras Nikon D7000 - 8'790 rubles, D7100 - 11'990 rubles. I looked at Arcadia's reviews on these models and the sites recommended by them where they are compared and realized that the D7100 is better. + tripod 1'000 rubles. I haven’t yet understood what to look for with light ... I realized that this is the most important thing in my case, and we need constant light sources, but I haven’t figured out the spectra and types of lamps yet ...
you can look at a macro lens for your purposes. autofocus is optional and resolution will be good. Nikon has 40mm, in the variant you can fit in, I think. fotik is not important, you can watch 5xxx.
“Nikon D7000 - 8'790 rubles, D7100 - 11'990 rubles” - suspiciously inexpensive, cameras may not be in the best condition. Light nuance - you need to prevent the appearance of glare, especially if you have an "oil" painting.
Yes, the prices are really strange.
The D7000 in very good condition with a range of up to 50 thousand shots should cost 15-16 thousand rubles, and the D7100 with the same mileage of 20-25 thousand rubles.
The scam is felt.
It does not feel, but directly shouts at the top of its voice "look people, I am a scam."
However, there are those who will not even hear these calls.
But there are such announcements) Mileage, though for 100k, or even more judging by the appearance
In terms of light - a couple of softboxes for four lamps, but you need 5600K lamps, luminescent and thoroughly torment yourself with the placement ... Well, or try a flash somewhere in the wall-ceiling, but it's not easy there either. The room should have a lot of white or at least light gray for even filling.
A tripod and light are an order of magnitude more important, for the camera - almost any with almost any fix, covered to 5.6-8.
Will this light work?
Considering the price, I would try one. Why a bear is good - you can take a picture of it, for example, in the sunlight, and then, in the light of such a lamp, calculate the delta. If the delta is minimal, then the light is good. A bear is more suitable and more convenient for these purposes than bothering with a spectrophotometer. And for you, the correct color rendering is a matter of principle.
And such soft boxes, do I understand correctly? Is 2 pieces on the sides of the painting 1,2 × 1,2 enough?
The size of softboxes must be selected according to the size of the paintings
And in my opinion, it is still easier to use flashes, and not lamps, to reshoot pictures. At a fixed wattage, they will give reasonably the same color temperature.
If the flashes have a modeling light - approx. Otherwise, there will be a lot of fuss while putting out the light. This is much easier with constant light. Modeling light flashes are expensive studio solutions.
Putting on the light is a matter of experience, the first 5 times, you have to tinker, then it will be easier.
Would suggest using 'on-camera' flashes Yongnuo-560IV (III)
There is an opinion that fluorescent lamps are less durable even with the degradation of the light characteristics of the spectrum in favor of green ...
Well, the wife of vidosiki has been writing on this softbox for the third year already. But I looked, during this time, LED ones appeared. They are preferable, but you need to look specifically with a temperature of 5400-5600. Usually in everyday life 2700 are used - cold light and 4100 neutral, 6500 cold. And all professional lighting equipment is adjusted to the temperature of the solar corona - this is 5400-5600, so it will be easier. Well, such lamps will have a special double phosphor or some cool diode characteristics. More expensive, of course, but the spectrum is better.
Taking pictures of my wife's pictures, try to describe your experience. The camera will not play a decisive role here, I would focus on the lens and shooting / processing conditions. Well, that is, for publishing on the Internet, any camera, say, 12MP and higher will be enough. And in order to capture all the micro-nuances, you can stare at the full frame, and preferably from the functions of increasing the image resolution by shifting the matrix.
I have this Canon 550D + Canon 50 1.8 STM. In general, I recommend a good fix to minimize distortion and other distortion. Most likely, a 50mm focal length will be a bit cramped for shooting pictures of this format with a designated space. So 35mm is probably more optimal.
Further, the camera is of course on a tripod. I use an on-camera flash, which I direct at the ceiling at an angle (here it is important that the ceiling and preferably the walls are white).
When developing RAW, I use distortion correction, adjust exposure and contrast so that the highlights / shadows are not distorted, plus WB correction if necessary.
At the end, there is processing in Photoshop, where I use the relatively new Perspective Crop Tool, which allows me to eliminate distortions due to the insufficiently accurate perpendicular position of the camera relative to the picture. So you can restore the geometry of the canvas without cutting off pieces - in a few clicks at the exit rectangle.
I'll try to describe *
Thank you, Seladir, but the light is still a question ... do you really have enough “on-camera” flash?
Well, yes, you advised the deputy, but I read Arkady and, if I understood correctly, there are reasons in my case to make a choice in favor of fixing ... with mm yes, the question is: 35 or 55?
Well, I decided to experiment with a fifty-kopeck lens and a tape measure.
1.2m of conventional canvas + a small margin for framing fits into the frame on the short side only if the camera is about 4.5m away. But you still need to accommodate the tripod and you behind the camera :)
So 35mm focal length is the only possible of these two options.
The flash, to be honest, is not enough - it usually fires at its maximum power, while the ISO is automatically set to 400. Here you also need to take into account that I cover the aperture to 5.6 in order to maximize sharpness from my lens. I have a very simple YONGNUO YN-468 II, it would be easier with something more powerful. Of course, ideally I would like to put two tall softboxes in front of the canvas, this would give more correct lighting. But for me personally, there is no place for them at home, and it's all worth it. Lamps need high quality to give the correct spectrum. Cheap ones sin with such a "piecewise" spectrum, so that the output seems to be white as a sum, but in fact the color rendering will be monstrously distorted, some colors will be brighter or darker relative to each other than in reality.
Lushnikov's bears are available, you can take pictures with them and then adjust the colors in something like 3D Lut Creator
I want to add details about the purchase. Considering the light / tripod costs, you can try to get by with the kit lens 18-55 and only use it in the 35mm position. Canon has a decent 18-55 starting with the first model with a stabilizer, that is, 18-55 3.5-5.6 IS. In 35mm position they will show their best side with a minimum of distortion. In the case of Canon, I would focus on cameras of the 500D level and above. I won't tell you about Nikon. The author of the site uses Nikon, so intuitively you can lean towards this brand, just an imprint of consciousness is imposed. But in fact, for your purposes, it makes no sense to narrow the choice to one manufacturer.
I will add that shooting is more convenient, and in general it is better to conduct it in LiveView - contrast focusing on old SLR cameras, although clumsy, is still guaranteed to be accurate. To be sure, I take a few pictures.
IS STM is completely new.
Thanks to everyone who takes part)) .... Here are the interim results for an EXAMPLE OF A SET OF PHOTO EQUIPMENT FOR SHOOTING PAINTING IN HOME CONDITIONS FOR 30 thousand rubles: LENS: new from the store Nikon AF Nikkor 50 mm f / 1,8 D - 7'140 rubles ., + CAMERA: used Nikon D 7100 from a photographic equipment store with a declared technical check, and a 1 year warranty and the ability to return within 2 weeks - 15'100 rubles, + LIGHT: 2 softboxes 50 × 70 × 4 lamps each with ceramic pedestals, tripods and fuses - 4'000 rubles Aliexpress., lamps "Remezovskie" 8 pcs LED solar light LED A 60 9 W 5700K - 390 rubles × 8pcs = 3'120 rubles, TOTAL: 7'140 + 15'100 + 4'000 + 3120 = 29 360 rubles. (variants Nikon 18-55 mm f / 3,5 - 5,6 G AF - P DX - 7 ′ 120 rubles, Nikon 35 mm f / 1/8 G AF - S Nikkor - 10'690)
There are different shops. I repeat, this price for Nikon D7100 raises suspicions, with 24 megapixels you can take something from 3 ***, 5 *** lines, it is much more likely that the camera was not used professionally. For lenses, do not take a whale, if you need detail, zoom is not needed for your purposes, take a fix (you can use it).
I heard thank you
So far, for me, there is still a slightly open question with a lens: will the image of a painting 1,2 × 1,2 meters fit into the above-mentioned Nikon lenses at a distance of camera-canvas = 4,5 meters? And the fix is more optimal in terms of image quality and color rendering, do I understand correctly? And soft boxes 50 × 70 are optimal in size, considering the size of the paintings is 1,2 × 1,2 meters?
So I specially conducted an experiment with a fifty-kopeck lens and described the results above :)
The short answer is - will not fit, take a 35-ku or kit 18-55, using it in the 35mm position.
Yes, yes, everything, I understand)
Optimal softboxes are proportional to the picture, that is, in the area of 1-1.2 meters along the long side for a picture with a height of 1.2 m.
70cm will do, but lighting uniformity will be worse.
I heard thank you
Nikon d7000 or d7100 better for topic tasks?
The 7100 will definitely win in detail, and its white balance is more precise.
Thank you)
Hello, please tell me. How the lens unit is removed from Vega-3. I bought a Chinese adapter DKL-EOS. But he has a different working distance. Adjustment rings should be added if possible.
Please tell me if it will lose the quality of the photo if you shoot not 3300x6000 on the Nikon D4000, but on an average size of 4496 [3000?
It will lose formally, but it will hardly be noticeable at all.
If the lens has enough detail for 24 MP, and you do not exceed the diffraction threshold (for your camera, the real is on the order of 1 / 7,1-1 / 8,0), then you will lose detail. The question is, do you need them? If deep detailed processing is not planned, then 10-12MP is enough for most tasks. Well, for processing it is generally better to use RAW ...
Maybe someone can suggest a compact flash for Nikon DSLR? Want the smallest size and weight, but with TTL and head noise. So far, only the Godox TT350 is in mind. Need a flash to 'maybe come in handy'.
There is an SB-900 and a huge Yongnuo-968II in general, so it is not necessary to write that a small flash will be low-power, and not a universal one. What you need is a compact pusher that fits into a small bag
* with head zoom
By the way, Arkady wrote in his article that the zoom of the flash has practically no effect on the result of the picture. If you need a compact one, then Ken Rockwell praises the SB-400 very much in comparison with other "relatives":
The SB-400 is much better than today's bigger, crummier and more expensive SB-300 and SB-500. The SB300 is bigger, junkier, lower powered and takes too long to recycle from it's pathetic AAA cells, and the SB500 is too darn big and costs more than twice as much for about the same performance as the tiny SB400.
SB-600, SB-700 if with head zoom, small SB-300-400 have no zoom.
Compared to the Godox TT350, they are big.
Maybe I'm wrong, but there are no compact flash units with zoom.
Vladislav, you are so "advanced"! I am surprised that you are asking such a question.
It is impossible to know the entire range of all manufacturers of photographic equipment.
I have not seen any reviews of compact flashes other than the aforementioned Godox.
If you have nothing to write, why are the buttons pressed?
Yes, I am not angry, just expressed surprise. As I understand it, you meant "non-native" outbreaks.
I meant any :)
The Chinese have Meike 300, 310, 320 without zoom.
SB-300, SB-400 well, very primitive (in terms of functionality), with a non-rotating head, which greatly limits freedom of action. And the price for the new ones is inadequate, the same Godox costs around $ 80-85.
They also have a Yongnuo 320EX, which looks very similar to the Godox 350, but it seems to be produced only for Sony (I did not find it for other systems).
Well, the 400th has not been released for a long time, but I met on Avito at completely bargain prices. Still, the heads of the 300th and 400th turn, but only up.
Good day. I am probably writing more to get reassurance: There is a Canon 7D, I have been racing for a long time and now I bought it in excellent condition. I myself do not know what prompted me to clean the mirror. Bottom line: I took a Chinese mop for cleaning matrices, in a single package, opened it, held it, there were stains (the mop was impregnated from the factory). There were enough brains to try to remove these stains with paper for optics. at first everything was fine, then I wound a tampon out of paper and, as a result, slightly scratched the translucent mirror. thin scratches, visible at an angle. It is not visible in the viewfinder, the autofocus does not seem to go astray (though I aim at the center point). The question is how much it costs to panic, the device is new and there is no 20 thousand mileage. The third night does not sleep ...
Yes, in general, it's okay, next time be careful.
Don't make consumer items a cult.
If the scratches are not visible in the photo, you do not have to bother and
shoot: the camera should be actively used and, as it is used, on it
there will be scratches, scuffs and dust inside.
In a year or two, sell and buy yourself something else.
And the next buyer, if a picky redneck gets caught, you will make a 5% discount,
and he will be happy, no need to stay awake and worry at night.
And, this is a scratch on the lifting mirror, and this is not a dormouse with a fixed mirror, but a kenon, then don’t bother at all, it doesn’t affect anything and you can normally sell it later.
I would like to believe that nothing terrible and did not touch the autofocus area ...
Happy New Year! I wish you all prosperity and success in life and work!
HAPPY NEW YEAR! PLEASE HELP THE KETTLE TO BE FRIENDS WITH NIKONF90X MANUAL LENSES (HELIOS 81 N, KALEINAR 5N, MIR 24N WHERE TO EXPLORE AND 2) JUPITER 37A WITH ADAPTER KP \ A N.
Thank you!
Good afternoon, please tell me how you can install the Helios 81n 2/50 lens on the Fed 5 camera, are there such adapters from m42 to m39 ?? Thank you in advance.
Better not to. G81N is a lens from SLR cameras with a large flange distance. A FED is a rangefinder with a small working distance. Look for lenses for rangefinder cameras.
Even if installed, the rangefinder will most likely not work (do not focus). From rangefinder, you can try Industar-61 (sharp), Jupiter-3, 8 (bokeh).
Of course, you can compensate for the difference in the working distance between 45,5 mm and 28,8 mm with a certain ring in height for this very difference, having an external M39 thread at one end and an internal M42 at the other. Are you considering Industar-61 L / D?
I can hardly help with this answer, but ...
Version “N” - is it for Nikon's bayonet? Okay, it's technically possible to use a mirror M42 on ltm / M39 (as Mowgli said above) - and similar to how it was done in Industar-50 - but how do you solve the focusing issue? After all, the pusher of the rangefinder in (FED) will not be used, and you will have to aim along the distance scale.
Isn't it easier to get a rangefinder Jupiter-8? He's not bad. True, again, there may be problems: it's not a fact that you won't have to adjust the rangefinder in the FED for a freshly bought lens.
Well, or to put your Helios on any camera with F-mount - what is not an option?
Hello. What lens to choose for Nikon 3500 crop to get the maximum depth of field. I understand that you can close the aperture, but on the kit 18-55 the image quality will deteriorate, you can step back and frame the focal length. But the question is not this, are there any lenses that differ noticeably in depth of field from the standard kit? Either these are lenses that show excellent quality at closed apertures, or generally look towards advanced mirrorless cameras (but in my opinion, the color rendering quality and focusing speed there will be such that you don't want deep depth of field, write who switched from a DSLR to a cool mirrorless). Thank you all in advance. I'll add, I'm interested in lenses with a focal length similar to that of a whale lens.
Here we must understand that we are dealing with simple physics. Accordingly, if we shoot the same object, while maintaining the aspect ratio of the frame, we can increase the depth of field only in two ways - by covering the aperture or focus stacking. And closing the aperture, from about f / 7, we will encounter the diffraction limit, and this is inevitable on any lens.
Question to Arkady:
It would be very, very nice to finally have the ability to edit your own message on the site. I think all users of this resource would be only “for”.
Is this possible in the near future?
+ 1.
Not bad at least for a certain time - 1 hour. It is especially important when you write from a mobile device: the upper part of the text goes off the screen, the lower part is partially overlapped by a button and an inscription (the left page markup)
+ 2.
And the fact that posts cannot be edited (which is half the trouble) and the layout of the page has gone when visiting from a smartphone.
Yes, you can switch to the "mobile view", and the page markup when writing a post will be ok, but you cannot see the list of the latest posts on the site.
good evening!
I plan to purchase a Canon EOS 800D DSLR camera Kit 18-55 IS STM + tokina at-x 12-28mm f4 pro dx canon ef-s or Canon ef-s 17-55mm f 2/8 is usm /
I'm a beginner, there is only a dream for a photo. budget 120.000
Tell me, am I making the right choice?
Tokina 12-28 and canon 17-55 only complement each other, but do not replace, so there cannot be any “or” here, if you do not know what you need - take Canon 17-55.
For the rest, I would take something else for such a budget, but your choice is your choice, so I will not dissuade you. In general, the rules.
Thanks for the answer
Tell me to take you?
I chose only based on reviews and tutorials from the Internet.
I want the camera itself to be universal, the lens (and clarity and sharpness and bokeh and colorfulness), well, and the flash to fit
And so that he cooked borscht and cleaned the house. Although, stop, what borscht? Cabbage soup!
As an alternative for this money, you can consider: Canon Rp kit, Fuji X-T3 kit. Change the whale lens later when it stops satisfying.
If you are a beginner, then it makes sense not to try to put together a complete kit and run out of budget. It takes a year or two before a person realizes his real needs: what and how he removes in practice, and what remains unclaimed. You can try to take the kit "camera + 18-135". Shoot different scenes for your pleasure and analyze which focal lengths you use and which ones are not in demand. For example, frequent use of the boundary values 18 and 135 would mean that you need to expand in one direction or another. Lack of aperture at some values (that is, insufficiently "bokeh" photos where you wanted it, or those where you had to use high ISO often) will mean that you can try to cover there with fixes. Well, that is, on a crop, a 50 / 1.8 class lens is very must-have and is cheap for Canon EOS.
17-55 – это очень хорошие фокусные для новичка. Я бы остановился на этом варианте. Как сказал Seladir, потом докупите, когда будете знать, чего именно недостает.
Очень хорошая альтернатива – Fujifilm X-на-сколько-денег-хватит + 18-55 или 18-135. Оптика у них недешевая, но откровенно плохой нет. И картинка хорошая сразу “искаропки”.
В общем, сейчас сложнее найти откровенно плохую технику, чем хорошую, поэтому берите то, что больше нравится (я серьезно).
I crashed the front lens F92, tell me where to look for a donor or who is repairing lenses? Sincerely.
Hello! Tell me, pzhl., Do you have a video review of the Nikon D10?
What is Nikon D10?