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Hello! I choose between D5100 with sigma 18-100 and D3100 with whale + Nikkorov fifty fifty g.
Both used the first option is cheaper than the second kind of less poyuzanny
But I am for the quality of the picture, from whom will it be better to extract it?
Beginner, but I want to do something thoroughly, I love macro photography
If you mean Sigma 18-200, then the second set is better (whale + fifty dollars).
Oh yes, 18-200
Thank you!
If Nikon, then NOT a series of 3xxx and 5xxx, these are frankly amateur soap dishes with no ergonomics and trimmed "self-limited" functionality ...
You are wrong. These series are far from soap dishes and for beginners just right.
I myself give the beginners 5D MkII or D300s, who prefers what. And sometimes units. It is much more convenient with them.
Hello. I wanted to buy a strong Russian optics, I wanted Helios-40 but expensive. I decided to buy a Cyclops, I bought NZT-1 by mail but not a regular metal lens, but with a rubber insert in the focusing ring. Year of release 1996, in the passport of FR 85 it is crossed out and it is written 55. Lenses with slightly blue enlightenment, no tail. Question! Why on the Canon 5D MDF is about 4-5 meters! Or is this normal? Or maybe the helicoid is wedged? Thank.
Cyclops, well, those that produced a light version of Helios-40, it seems, until the year 94 they released, then they replaced it with another model with a new ending design, and then generally with a non-removable night vision device. I can assume that your lens has a new design, there was also the so-called shank (it’s inside the M42, as it were), which was cut down, otherwise you won’t put it on the camera. Look carefully if there are traces of some kind of saw cut. In the shank, I don’t remember exactly, I also thought about purchasing for a long time, studied forums, there is also a lens, so its absence with a sawed-off shank makes its own adjustments, such as a change in MDF. And yet, as far as I remember, it was discussed that, alas, this version has no relation to Helios-40.
Yes, I did not like the color of the lens right away. But the shank in the seller’s photo did not see and therefore took (
This is a lens from PNV manufactured by ROMZ. He doesn’t need to saw a tail with a lens, he gets out. The lens has mediocre quality and does not apply to the G-40.
Here it is: http://lens-club.ru/lenses/item/c_5469.html
Here is such a model.
Sorry, but you don’t know what you bought by mail ...
Soviet night vision device CICLOP-1. With a lens in which there should be lenses from Helios-40. I tried to shoot. MDF is approximately 4-5 meters. Induced by the moon-strong flight for infinity. Probably need to redo something. Maybe there are adjustment washers there? Filmed in the evening the sun was at sunset in the clouds. And still the pictures catch the light. And not to say that sharply. Portrait photos are obtained at a distance of 4-5 meters. FR for some reason big.
It seems to have found the answer to my question. There is no lens at all on the back of the M42 thread :( there is only a front lens. Everything seems to be factory-made to show no signs of disassembly. Did they really start hacking in 1996? The seller claimed that he sold forty of these lenses! For DSLRs. What should I do?
in general there is far from one lens in the lens. Is there a large photo on all sides of the lens itself?
It was possible to unwind the helicoid without problems and there was small shavings :( It looked like a tail with a rear lens. And it was carefully sawed off. I will talk with the seller (maybe something will be sent in exchange.
There was a tail (inside the M42) with a lens. It was cut down, otherwise you can’t put it on the camera. And this, as I heard, is another version, no longer based on Helios-40.
Yes, I saw those on Avito called Cyclops-1M. With a red pimp. But I didn’t see this model in reviews.
hmm this is not a lens. and don’t even do it yourself. in his trash.
Here is a photo.
Here. I don’t know whether to boot.
And so
Good ... A couple of years ago here on the forum was the announcement of the Tamron SP AF 17-35mm f / 2,8-4 DI OSD lens. Can someone now review it after some exploitation. Thank.
What is better to buy Nikon D3 (mileage 177 thousand) or Nikon D7500 (mileage 84000 thousand).?
For the price are almost the same. The shooting conditions are not studio. Nature, sport, rain, snow.
Security and speed are important. Before that was the Nikon D2H. The soul lies more to D3.
Lenses
80-200 MK3.
50mm 1.8
Shooting speed and environmental protection? Definitely a D500!
D 7500?
Just the D500 option is a little expensive
You yourself asked about speed and protection.
Interestingly, I also wanted to offer the D500, because both the D3 and D7500 are full of compromises.
I have D700 (“reduced” D3) and D850 (“increased” D500) on my hands and the focus of the latter is really impressive: it focuses almost in total darkness (seven hundred surrenders significantly earlier), 3D tracking works (it is still raw in the D700), almost never does not scour, there is group AF, a very convenient joystick, more coverage (the D500 will have almost the entire viewfinder), etc.
Management in general has become much better. Apart from minor flaws, the seven hundred is good, but, conditionally, the 5th generation of D5, D500, D850 cameras is a huge step forward in terms of ergonomics (from AutoIso settings to the screen).
If you do not need FF, and you are shooting a sport, then maybe the d500 would be the best choice.
PS This is just my opinion, and I do not pretend to be completely objective.
D3 or D3s - which one is suggested?
It is D3. The second-hand option is offered for 45 thousand. Approximately the same in our city is the second-hand D7500. In terms of rate of fire, D3 will be a bit higher. Yes, and lives longer on 1 battery.
eska would be better. but just the “three” is also a great camera. generally a strange question from a person filming a “deuce”, and choosing between amateur crop and professional full frame :)
Well, actually the difference in release date is about 10 years. And technology does not stand still. D2 suited until you start shooting at “high” for this ISO camera.
Therefore, I choose a camera between the old man D3 (2007) and D7500 (2017)
D3s at high ISO very worthy removes. Just D3 did not try, most likely it will be a little worse. But full frame and protection - this is important for someone.
Hello. I have on hand d3300 with whale 18-55. I want to buy something longer. The choice fell on two options, unfortunately there are no others.
Nikkor AF-S 55-200 mm 1: 4-5,6G ED and tamron AF18-250 mm F / 3.5-6.3 what can you say about these glasses. Or is it better to look for something else?
For ordinary amateur photo tasks, 18-250 will be more convenient than wearing two lenses (18-55 + 55-200) and constantly changing them. But in this case, I write only for ease of use. In addition to it, immediately or in the future, you can buy Yongnuo 50 1.8, if on a budget, to get better portrait shots.
According to the reviews of Comrade Tamron 18-250 strongly lathers at the short end, perhaps the problem is precisely his copy + this is “not native” optics. + Nikon will be lighter at the long end.
Hello. Advise mirrorless yes in the range of $ 1000-1500. With the ability to use non-native lenses. Interested only in photos. The possibilities of the video do not matter at all. Thank.
With any mirrorless camera you will have such an opportunity with the help of appropriate adapters.
Nikon D7000 Camera.
From Lenses:
1. Jupiter 37A 135mm
2mm 50
I want to buy a lens for portraits. Of the used options in our city there are:
80-200 f2.8 MK3
85mm f1.8G
Portrait fix already exists, now portrait zoom 80-200 mk3 just right
Thank you very much for the advice.
And if it makes sense to buy 80-200 f2,8 MK4? The difference in price is 7 thousand.
Or still buy version 3.
mk3 will be enough
Got another good version of the Nikkor 105mm 2.8G ED VR SWM IF Micro?
Will it be better 80-200?
For a better macro. For a portrait, debatable, but can be used.
I wrote in the topic about “crop”, and decided to duplicate here:
Good afternoon. There is a question regarding crop:
I’m shooting on a Nikon D3300 camera (crop, respectively), purchased a Jupiter-21m (200/4) lens - and expected that the crop factor would work, and the picture from Jupiter would be about 300 mm or more.
However, when comparing with his old zoom, 55-200 (DX version) saw that the difference in the eyes was practically not noticeable, and after making test shots, he calculated the difference - the frame from Jupiter was only 1,15 times larger than Nikkor, not 1,5, XNUMX, which is similar as implied by the crop factor of the camera.
Regarding the viewing angle of the lenses - Nikkor (would have been) 12 degrees, Jupiter - 8, which in turn also hints that there should be a "gain".
What and where am I mistaken in my calculations and expectations?
I am also waiting for the arrival of the Tair-3s lens, how will the camera crop affect it?
PS
I like the picture from Jupiter-21m more than from my own Nikkor 55-200 DX VR. It is sharper, well, noticeably lighter.
200 mm and 200 in Africa, why suddenly “Jupiter” will grow to 300 (and Nikkor - no)? The focal length of the lens is a physical quantity that does not change; only the viewing angle changes, and even then, indirectly. This is the same as shooting a 24x36 frame, and then cutting out the middle part of 24x18 from it.
For all lenses designed for DSLR, the physical value of the focal length is always indicated. It doesn’t matter if the lens is designed for crop, FF, or medium format. 200 mm for crop, FF, or SF will remain 200 mm. What changes during development is the coverage area, that is, if you put the lens for crop on the FF, then the corners of the image will be darkened. And the viewing angle and “increase” will be the same.
for BB and Trueash
read what crop and ff are and how they will visually differ:
https://radojuva.com/2011/05/size-of-matrica/comment-page-4/#comment-342766
here with pictures, everything is clear and understandable.
Of course, the focus will be the same everywhere, no one has canceled physics, but under the same conditions on the full frame more space will enter the frame, accordingly the elements will be smaller, and the crop will take up less space, while the details in the final picture will be larger. That's why they say, for example, that 50mm on crop can give an equivalent of 75mm full frame.
I was expecting this, that my 200 mm from Jupiter, being designed for 36 * 24, will give 300 mm EQUIVALENT on my crop. But this does not happen, the picture of my standard telezoom, calculated on the crop matrix - in the end is exactly the same as from Jupiter.
Your 55-200 telezoom has EFR on a crop of 82,5-300 mm. Let it not bother you that it is designed for DX cameras, since the focal length is true, and not equivalent to crop.
Sergey, on any lens they write its true focal length, this is “the distance from the front main point ...” (read it yourself), both for crop 1,5 and crop 5 (6,0 - 20,0 mm standard zoom for it, rather than shirik), a question on the sensor of what size it projects. It is customary to measure from the FF (36x24mm), comparing with the angle of the picture on the FF - the so-called EGF, so DX 55-200 on Crop 1,5 gives EGF 82,5-300mm, U-21m also EGF 300, on FF at U-21 EGF 200mm, and on Crop 5 (if attached) - EGF 1000 would give.
Yes, this is the most common question for beginners. The most common question that appears under almost every review. That's why I worked out a simple rule.
On ANY cropped camera, EGF is ALWAYS recounted for ANY lens. Without any exceptions.
Hello, I would like to fix the Lomo compact in St. Petersburg, and since I just started filming, I don’t know the appearances, addresses and passwords, could you tell me?
Such rare rarities can be repaired only by rare amateur craftsmen who also have spare parts.
Hello. I ask for help again) I bought a Helios-40 lens early white by mail. But having screwed the adapter upset (The back with the m39 thread is deformed! Apparently the camera was dropped but there are no signs of falling on the lens. Can this be fixed at home? Is there not a working Zorky who can be twisted into it gradually and bent? Or are there any ways? PS something is not lucky for me on expensive lenses.)
You can’t buy optics by mail.
Only a personal check.
It’s better not to buy anything with delivery.
Let the sold returns the money.
Aligning the back geometry of this lens is very difficult even for an experienced craftsman.
And shooting with optics with an inclined optical axis is a strong distortion and lack of sharpness in at least two angles.
It is best to return the subject to the seller and get your money back.
Return is unlikely to succeed. He says that maybe the carrier hit the lens. Although the box is whole and inside too. Probably I will try to bend with the help of an old camera.
And you accidentally did not allow a bias when screwing the adapter?
Of course not. By the way, almost managed to straighten the backdrop! True, the camera could not stand it, the bayonet collapsed) Today I already took it off) I think that next time I will straighten it to the end when I get another old non-working carcass.
Hello.
Flour of choice!))) Lover. For a long time I own randomly in the bustle of kullenny d1100 with whale 18-55. I tried fix 22 and realized that it wasn’t mine ... Only zoom!))) The camera is morally outdated, and it’s very budget 12mp ... I want something more comfortable and better ...
In general, I want to take a better camera with a rotary display. Plus, a universal lens with a focal length from 17-18 to at least 100 ...
I choose between nikon 5200, 5300 and canon 650d, 200d ... Budget 15-25. More for “fotochki” for insty and the family archive is not yet mentally ready to give =)
For the price of course more like options
Nikon 5200 + 18-105 vr
canon 650d + 18-135 stm
Is it worth it to overpay for 200d or d5300? And in general, which is better of all these? According to ratings, the same 5200 is much higher than 650, but is it so ?! It seems that he was already used to canon, but he is not happy with many, for example, the dynamic range and high ISOs are very sad ...
In general, tell me, what would you advise from my list for this money for my tasks (or not) ...?
For instagram and family archive, the Canon 1100 features are quite enough.
The main drawback of this device is the noise at ISO from 400.
But there is a plus - a relatively bold pixel, which can work well with old inexpensive optics.
Given your love of zooms, it makes sense to purchase for a very inexpensive native 18-135 with a stub (but not STM - this one is much more expensive).
Stub will partially solve the problem of noise at high ISO.
Thank you for your reply!
Initially, I wanted to! And in principle, I put ISO at 100-200 in the daytime and the norms, but in poor light without a tripod I don’t touch it ... Therefore, I don’t have acute problems with noise ... But then again, when it’s not necessary, I don’t take it into my hands knowing that I don’t will cope ... = / Very rarely I bet on 800 and, as a rule, as a result of the pictures I’m not happy ...
Well, the screen for 1100 squalor! Small - the resolution is terrible - as a result, the shot was invaluable, nothing. When the sun is poorly visible. Well, for the photo from the bottom to the top, the screen still would like to be rotary ... The touch screen is not really needed, but I will not think it is superfluous ... As a result, I still tend to 650d.
18-135 stm seems to be praised more for the quality of optics and autofocus a little faster / more accurately. Not?
But I didn’t understand the pixels ... Do you want to say that 12mp at 1100d works better than 18 at 650d or what?
12 megapixels will work better with old manual lenses (than 18 megapixels), unless of course you decide to use them in your work.
200d is smaller, lighter, pulls the battery better, behaves better when shooting video, stop better by ISO.
If possible, try someone 55-250. Perhaps you will like it - small, light and with a stub, for street photography or portraits of the house - quite for yourself.
According to ISO - noise reduction, at least even Photoshop or from Lightrum. I've found old pictures from 12 years old, which were made just at 1100, and there are also many things that can even be extended to 1600-3200. Progress does not stand still.
Thank you for your reply!
I don’t want a collection of lenses ... Bdzinkulo me to take 22 + 50 + telephoto, but was blown away by another 22m))) Yes aperture and sharpness Pts. pleased! But when I put the whale back over time, it seemed to be “a load from the shoulders” for ease of use))) I don’t like the bunch of “eyes” in the bag on my shoulder and somehow I’ve made it easier to zoom in on the composition by turning the ring. Well, for an amateur ... So preference for a lens like 18-135 ...
According to ISO unsubscribed a little higher. I’ll add that yes, a lot is solved in post-processing, but alas, not all! For example, I tried to do time-lapses at night, the result: the GoPro 7 action camera coped with this task better, alas ... For 1100 it was either noise, or there were no stars, or shutter speed 15+ and everything was floating ...
As for 200d, yes! In fact, the ideal (for my tasks) option! But it on the secondary costs 2 times more expensive than 650d, will this overpayment be justified ?!
Do you need 24mp for budget lenses and amateur tasks? question…
Well, miracles do not happen. For timelapses, especially for the sky - a tripod, a moderate fast shutter speed, large ISO, better full frame and wild processing, it is possible to add frames. So that everything is universal - it does not happen.
22 is an EF-M variant. On the EF-S - 24 / 2.8. If you haven’t got rid of it, it looks very good on the tiny 200D, it’s quite versatile and fast enough for many different tasks.
Try to start with 18-135, perhaps it will “revive” your old 1100D, first of all, with a large range of focal lengths and a stub. It’s just not to say that the 650D is going to be so different right now. The swivel screen is good for those who shoot video. Well, or for complex framing, but there you must not be too lazy to go around and climb somewhere.
In general, practice shows that even on complex and demanding filming, you usually use zooms at the minimum and maximum range. Well, sometimes in the middle, but rarely enough. Even you often accustom yourself to crop with a margin so that you can then cut the corner or at least 4: 3 to squeeze. A 3-5x zoom is useful for television, but in the middle of the range you can often do quite well with something average and one.
Well, about TL I understand that there is another equal)) But the hands itch)))
I thought about taking a fast 50k and looking for a favorable angle ... But still it’s a shame that the compact VIDEO action camera with 800 ISO, in the interval photo mode, gave the material better than a large PHOTO SLR ...
Yes! I forgot a little ... Canon EF-S 24mm f / 2.8. But personally, I did not like how it looked! The miracle is judo ... Compact of course. But as for me, the view of an elephant without a trunk)))
In principle, this was the plan ... I wanted to take an 18-135 objective first, then I think if I need a carcass. But there are many options on the market namely the 650th with 18-135 stm at reasonable prices ...
Swivel yes - mainly for video, but even when you shoot “from the ground” you don’t particularly look into the viewfinder. Living on the sea, landscapes authorizing a similar angle - a lot and have to slap in the blind ...
I agree, usually I use zoom at minimum-maximum. You need a darker or larger blur 55, a wider frame 18. But in the process of zooming, you often find the desired angle and then set the focus as technically necessary, taking the necessary steps back and forth ...
Good afternoon.
There was a question. Took from the hands of Tokina 17-35 / 4 to d800.
This bug was discovered - when shooting high-contrast scenes (silhouettes against the sky and the like) at 17 mm, the mirror does not drop instantly - it remains raised for 1-2 seconds.
This is only 17 mm, this does not happen on other focal lengths.
If the scene is more or less evenly lit (for example, indoors) - this also does not happen.
What could be the problem?…
Tell me, I think to take sony rx 100 m vii.
Can anyone share real experience on this model?