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Material prepared Arkady Shapoval.
Good evening. Can you kindly tell me what a terrible fungus is on the lens?
In general, it depends on the degree of damage and the degree of accessibility of the lens for cleaning. If these are, say, isolated outbreaks that occupy a small area of the total surface area, it’s not particularly scary. But the fungus has a tendency to grow, so it is best to either neutralize it with a long exposure to mercury UV (if there is no access to the lens; the method may be ineffective if there are flint lenses in the optical path) or clean it off (there are different methods, their applicability depends depending on the circumstances, in particular the type of coating of the optics).
If the damage is extensive (>10% of the area), pronounced (thick film), then there is a chance that the anti-reflective coating or even the top layer of glass is damaged - such a lens is not worth taking, it’s a lottery. Let me explain: I cured my OKS1-300-1 of fungus so that not a single trace remained, but with Sonnar 4/300 T such a trick is no longer so effective due to different types of coatings and different brands of glass (less chemically resistant in Sonnar ).
Hello!
Help with choosing a portrait lens.
There are two options:
1, Vivitar Series 1 90/2.5
2. Nikon 85/1.8d
Exclusively for hobby.
Thank you!
autofocus with 85tka would be preferable
Thank you!
Please, recommend a good repair and maintenance service for photographic equipment (specifically, the Nikon camera requires less maintenance)
Hello, Arkady.
Thank you for the wonderful site, I read it like an encyclopedia of photography.
Let me ask a question.
I take pictures on a Nikon d3500 in a jeep, viewing through JVI or Live View (LV).
Do I understand correctly that, all other things being equal (same shutter speed, aperture, ISO, exposure compensation, exposure metering method), a photograph “aimed” through the JVI will be cleaner in noise than a photograph “aimed” through LV? Allegedly, when LV was turned on, the matrix worked longer, therefore it warmed up more and made noise on its own, regardless of ISO and shutter speed.
When visually comparing two images of the same object and at the same exposure, I cannot notice that the image through LV is noisier. In my opinion, they are almost the same, only sometimes the shot through LV turns out to be more contrasty or sharper (and sometimes vice versa).
Thanks in advance.
it won’t, it barely gets warm during Live View (not in video mode). And when the shutter is released, it turns off for a fraction of a second, this gives it the opportunity to get rid of thermal noise.
Hello Arkady. Tell me, will there be a review of the Nikon D850 camera?
what is there to see there? camera like camera
A strange answer from a person who reviews photo equipment. The camera was released for the 100th anniversary of the brand, full frame with large pixels and other famous characteristics. You reviewed the Nikon d810 but didn’t deign to review the Nikon d850?) They didn’t pay you for the review, so you didn’t do the review)
Ilya, it’s a different time—wartime.
It seems to me that reviewing photographic equipment when something explodes nearby and you need to look for money for food is at least uncomfortable.
It is possible that you are right, but what you described does not prevent Arkady from making posts on social networks and reviews of photographic equipment.
Actually, yes, the war really ruined my whole life, this is a very big problem that prevents me from working on this site, among other things.
You are either a cynic or a narrow-minded person.
“They didn’t pay you for the review, so you didn’t do the review)”
Just to laugh, who do you think pays him to review cameras of previous generations, maybe Nikon?)))
company “industar”, “helios” and “know-name-china” :)
or this is the “mind theory”: Kenon, Sony, Fuji paid pennies to Arkady, so that they would not hesitate to look at the cool Nikon camera, and would not harm their sales with their actions :)
d850 – best in class (C)
Now send me millions!
If you noticed, in the following years I generally do not review cameras
Arkady, hello.
Thank you for your website and blog on YouTube!
Question.
How is the material filmed on video divided into frames with a frequency of, for example, 30 or 60 fps?
For Nikon d3500, d5600 cameras.
Do these entry level cameras have an electronic shutter that can fire 30 or 60 times per second?
Tell us about the physics of the process of dividing video material into frames at a given frequency.
Thank you.
Yes, there is, yes it works. Everything is as usual - electronic reset and switching on. It's exactly the same on your phone.
Thank you for the clarification.
But if entry-level cameras have an electronic shutter that can fire 60 times per second, then why isn’t it widely used for serial reportage photography in cameras?
there are many features, to put it very briefly - the image quality deteriorates significantly, from a banal rolling tent to problems with full resolution.
For example, cameras with a small sensor, budget ones like Nikon 1, have 60 fps in photo mode, but there the frame buffer lasts for a third of a second, which is why this option is practically useless there.
Thank you for the clarification.
Yes, I read about Nikon 1 J1 and its claimed, but really useless 60 frames per second in your review)
As far as I understand (from your announcement about the Sony a9 III), this is the first time Sony has mastered a real high-performance global electronic shutter - the first time it has been installed in the Sony a9 III camera?
from cameras - yes, Sony a9 III. But many modern cameras, even without a global shutter, already had a good reading speed and allowed more or less shooting only with an electronic camera, like the Nikon Z9
Good day. I'd like to do a big studio test. Color quality, dynamic range, and so on. I have my own photo studio. I have Fujifilm S3 pro, S5 pro cameras. Nikon D7000, D3, D800, D850 and Z6. Lots of lenses, about 15 of them. I have my own Canon 400d. A friend has a Canon 5d mark 3 and it seems 6d, I don’t remember exactly, but something with a six. It would be possible to put all this on your page. I really want to dispel all the rumors about the color rendition of certain cameras. There is also the opportunity to buy a Canon 1ds mark 2 or a Canon 5d mark 2, I don’t know which is better, both are in good condition. The price is about the same. What do you think about it?
While listing all my cameras, I forgot to mention three more legendary cameras. These are Nikon D1x, D2h and D2x.
do
Do you know if you can fix a Canon mount?
I'm flying!!!
No. Third-party lens manufacturers make a request for each lens separately and then Canon decides to issue permission. These are mainly lenses that, according to Canon, are not direct competitors to their native products.
they only allowed for crops Canon EOS R (APS-C, RF-S). After all, Kenon himself does nothing at all for the crop. And now there will also be Tamron 11-20/2.8 and Sigma C 16/1.4 | Sigma C 23/1.4 | Sigma C 30/1.4 | Sigma C 56/1.4 |Sigma C 10-18/2.8 | Sigma C 18-50/2.8
The shutter doesn't work
The sun is setting, the wind is blowing
+1
))))))
only in haiku the ratio is 5\12
The sun is setting
It's lonely in the fields
The wind's blowing
Muscovites arrived at night to sit and burn in tanks.
Durnyatko Yuri sprinkled
Yakus gidotu znov
Yogo pukan palae...
There are plenty of videos on YouTube of Muscovites burning in front of tanks. So I’m just stating the facts, but you can’t come to terms with it - and who among us is the fart falling on?
Hello. Sometimes situations arose when I wanted to take long time-lapse shots of 3-4 hours, but the battery lasted for an average of 1,5 hours of continuous shooting. I was thinking of buying an external battery for the camera with a snag insert instead of a battery. There are no problems with insertion. But which powerbank to choose so that it lasts for the required period? I haven’t come across any articles with real experience in using external batteries with cameras.
Is deception really necessary? Modern cameras have a direct external power input (for example via USB C).
In principle, any external battery with a capacity of 10.000+ mAh is sufficient. This is ~4-7 times the capacity of the original camera batteries. As a rule, they all support charging at 5, 9 and 12V. It's important that it's not just 5V, since the camera usually needs 7,2V. If weight is not a problem, then you can take 20.000 mAh (with two charging outputs!), there will be a reserve for heating the lens through a special collar or for a flashlight/phone. Don't buy the cheapest options for $5 - they rarely meet the stated characteristics and their outputs often fail.
I have a Sony A5100. Possible only with deception.
GOOD AFTERNOON. Tell me if there is an adapter for an emount Sony camera and Sony lens. those. on both sides e mount/
morris
It’s not entirely clear what you mean by “both sides e mount”.. To use mirrored A-Mounts on the new Sony E, there are adapters LA-EA4 and LA-EA5. If there is an E-Mount on both sides, then this is essentially a macro ring, of which there are a bunch of different lengths.
Hello,
I am an amateur and want to choose one zoom lens and one fix lens around 20mm for the FUJIFILM X-S50 camera.
Please help me choose or recommend something of your own.
I understand they have different apertures, but they are in the same price category.
Tamron 17-70mm f/2.8 Di III-A VC RXD vs Fujifilm XF 16-80mm F4
и
Sigma 56mm F1.4 DC DN | C vs Fujifilm XF 50mm f/2 R WR
mi speedlite YN560 IV enciende pero el piloto se mantiene en azul y no dispara, como puedo solucionar mi problema
I take amateur photos (photos only) for myself, friends, and family on a Nikon D5500 + a pair of kit 18-55/70-200 lenses + a pair of 35/50 primes. I would like a more serious camera, ideally a D7500 (the possibility of motorless AF lenses, there is AF adjustment, CLS, an additional LCD screen, a pentaprism JVI, a matrix, I hope in most situations it will be better due to a bolder pixel). I found that prices for more modern mirrorless cameras (Z50) are often the same or even lower. This applies to both new and, most surprisingly, used cameras. At the same time, mirrorless cameras have noticeably better autofocus, they are more compact, often also have a faster rate of fire, and over time you can purchase modern Z-lenses for them. Why are prices for morally and physically obsolete DSLRs not reduced? Even a full frame is often sold cheaper. What keeps me from switching to it is the need to change optics and the convenience that I’m used to, for example, a rotating touch screen (in comparison with the available and at about the same prices used D750). If we are to change so radically, then in this case it probably makes sense to consider other systems from Fujifilm and Canon.
Who thinks about the prices for used DSLRs against the backdrop of the rapid development of mirrorless cameras? Is it even worth changing your D5500 to something else in such conditions?
I won’t advise you on what to take... I’ll just say a few words about your expectations.
“...in most situations it will be better due to the bolder pixel)”
Of all the things you listed, the least you will notice is the “fat pixel” and the improvement in photo quality. The most you will notice is that when developing in the converter, you will be editing other colors. I have this camera, although I haven’t used it for almost a year. Compared to the 5000 series, it is much more convenient to use due to the presence of quick buttons and a more convenient case. JVI, as for a crop, is large and light - it’s like a breath of fresh air compared to the 3000th and 5000th series. As for pricing, this is most likely due to the fact that the D7500, along with the D5600, D780, D850 and D6, belongs to the latest generation of DSLRs and is still sold new (even though some of them are already 7 years old).
Yes, I thought too, the fact is that the D7500 is still being sold “new” (is it really even being produced or are the accumulated stocks simply so large?), but is anyone buying it?
The problem of choice remains unresolved... Perhaps I’ll save money and just continue to take photographs with what I have, or even better, add something (lens, filters, umbrellas, flashes). Over time, you'll see, something will turn up that meets my wishes/limits :))
PS. By the way, what did you switch to from the D7500? Or did they just stop taking photos?
“... is it really even being produced or are the accumulated reserves simply so large?”
Most likely the D7500 is still in production, since here in Germany it is available in all photographic equipment stores. If these were only leftovers, then stores would get rid of them through discounts, because storing dead capital in a warehouse is expensive. Since we are not seeing strong discounts, there appears to be demand.
“... what did you switch to from the D7500? Or did they just stop taking photos?”
Both.. I switched to Fujifilm GFX 50S II, but the time is really much less than I would like.
Good afternoon. May Nikon d100 2002 rIk.
Pereyshov from grandfather. Vіnіvіv іzhіvіzhії skin week іn 2002 roku. I would like to know the mileage of the shutter. I hope I lose my memory because of my memory. Please show me how to verify it. All platforms show mileage since 2005.
Peaceful sky to everyone! Can you tell me which NIKON models have the focus bracketing function for frames 40-80? The search engine doesn't give anything intelligible. I would appreciate your answer.
most likely only in the latest mirrorless cameras
It turns out that it’s not available in DSLRs? Sorry, thanks for the answer.
The D850 was the first from Nikon with this feature. This was even presented by the manufacturer as some kind of sensation. It allows you to select from 1 to 300 frames.
Addition.. D780 can do it too. And of course, as Arkady said above, new mirrorless cameras. More specifically Z6, Z6 II, Z7 and Z7 II.
It is also possible to implement this function on all other Nikon DSLRs with WiFi. For example, on the D7500 with later firmware, which allows you to use WiFi without Snapbridge). This is done using the device on Android via the “Qdslrdashboard” application or a USB OTG cable.
Qdslrdashboard is also available for iPhone.
Via cable means using, for example, Helicon Focus through a laptop or computer.
Thanks for the answers and clarifications and all the best!
Arkady, hello. Please advise a not very expensive camera for easy, high-quality and quick photography at a child’s school, in kindergarten, or on a walk. For photos that you won’t be ashamed to include in an album later. I have a Nikon d300, old). It's too heavy and difficult to set up. If you answer, I will be grateful. I once had a Sony Alpha NEX-F3K, Kit, 18-55mm camera, I took very good pictures with it on vacation, but it was sold a long time ago. Now I'm looking at a used Sony alfa NEX 6. Or NEX 7.
Unfortunately, I’m not Arkady, but I can personally recommend the Sony a6000-6100-6300-6400.
Good eye autofocus.
If you choose a lens to suit your needs, you will be pleased with the camera.
Recently I managed to take pictures with this camera (friends asked the girls to film themselves with the camera).
The cameras are quite easy to set up. The menu is a little unique, but you can get used to it.
For amateur (and not so amateur) purposes it is quite normal. The eye tracking autofocus and the presence of a zebra made me happy.
Thank you They write in reviews that 6000 is quickly covered.
everything is relative, my A3500, 140.000 flight is normal. nex 6, 160.000, normal flight
The girl bought herself a second-hand A6000. For amateur use, it’s quite good; she’s had this camera for several years. She has low mileage and takes photos infrequently (she has an iPhone 14 or 15, she uses it more often). She doesn't make videos of her.
Now I googled and did not find a large number of negative reviews on this model regarding the unreliability of the camera.
Good afternoon. As a hobby, I photograph birds, deer and other animals. I use a Nikon 5200 with a 55-300 lens. The lens is terribly soapy. I want to eventually replace it with AFP 70-300. But I’m not ready to spend money at the moment. Does it make sense to try out the very budget option Tair 3?
Thank you in advance!
The living creatures are painfully playful and zealous, but Tair is manual, so think about it. To avoid blur, you need to set the shutter speed to 1/600, or better yet, 1/800 if these are birds. I tried it on a Sigma 50-500 mirrorless camera, it even worked, but it takes a lot of time and desire.
photo - class
Tair may be sharper, but the focusing is manual - can you handle it? Maybe a 300/4 prime with ED glass or a more modern zoom is better?
On my lens, the focusing speed is so slow that it is faster manually.
I won't take Tair. I'll take 70-300 AFP a little later.
Czy mogę zamiast tego użyć tego adaptera, którego nie mogę znaleźć, KP-A\42, Adapter t/t2 – m42? Aby podłączyć mto 1000 to m42?
Can I instead use this adapter that I can't find, KP-A\42, t/t2 to m42 Adapter? Connect MTO 1000 to M42?
Comrades, please tell me, is this enlightenment falling off or is it a fungus? In the light it shines like a mirror.
Everything is much worse - this is sticking up.
What does this mean and what to do about it? It does not affect the quality of the photo in any way!
The glued group of lenses comes unglued. Further development is unpredictable. It may remain this way, but it will more likely deviate further towards the center. There's nothing to be done about it. Unless there is the same donor, with a different problem, from which the lens block can be removed.
I see. Thanks.
Rodion, please tell me! I have Jupiter 21A, is it possible to install a front lens block from 21M?
I cannot guarantee you that the gluing is bored out the same on 21M and 21A. It would be worth a try. In general, somewhere I even seemed to have a glue from Yu21M, but I can definitely say whether I have it or not, and what condition it is in after August 25th. If I have a good one, I would give it to you.
Oh cool! I'll write to you.
Hello, help me choose a camera. The first camera was a Canon EOS-1100D. Why do you need a new one? I want to have a richer picture, I want more opportunities for creativity. Perhaps provide links to existing articles here for reference, or there will be recommendations for consideration of a specific model. I will be glad to receive any help. Thank you.
A purely utilitarian opinion, so as not to harbor illusions: the 1100D is one of the most crappy cameras at the moment and any newer Canon or any mirrorless camera will take better photos than it.
Secondly, any phone will take better photos than it, except if you attach a fast prime lens to it and use post-processing, or take photos with long-focus lenses (photo hunting).
>> I would like to have a more juicy picture
use photoshop and the analogs will be a more juicy picture; you don’t need a new camera for this
>> I want more opportunities for creativity
all cameras have similar opportunities for creativity, the result is influenced by the photographer, lens and post-processing
Pay attention to the R-50
Hello, I suddenly have a question 😅 about changing the exposure in the “sport” mode of the Nikon D90
Does she change at all? I tried everything, nothing
Good day.
I'm trying to choose, without first “touching” it, between two lenses for the Nikon D7500.
1. Nikon N AF-S Nikkor 28mm 1: 1.8G
2. Sigma 30mm 1:1.4 DC Art
The question is preferably addressed to those who have had the opportunity to try both. Given the same cost, which one would you keep for yourself and why?
I would appreciate your feedback.
Good day. Tell me, will there be a review of the LOMO I-11M F=30cm 1:9 lens? Thank you.
On Industar-11m there will be 150/9))