The Nikon AF N8008s is a pretty analog film camera released back in 1991 to replace the Nikon AF N8008. In those distant times, no one thought that in a decade and a half the figure would rule the world of amateur photography.
Nikon AF N8008s is better known as Nikon AF F-801s (cameras with the letter 'N' in their name were mainly produced for the USA market). Unlike the Nikon AF N8008 (Nikon AF F-801), the new Nikon AF N8008s received faster autofocus and spot metering exposure. Otherwise, the cameras are identical.
Working with the Nikon AF N8008s is very pleasant. As soon as you bring it to the right eye for sighting, you experience a slight shock from what you see. The optical viewfinder is simply huge, much more than any there Nikon D800 и Nikon D4. After my viewfinder Nikon D80, JVI the old Nikon AF N8008s seems the size of the universe. JVI Nikon AF N8008s has 0.75X magnification, and it's a pity, but only 92% frame coverage. After shooting with Nikon AF N8008s even with Nikon D700 stiffness due to JVI.
In addition, the camera has a well-designed LCD display in JVI, its brightness physically depends on the illumination. At the top of the camera, where the built-in frog flash usually hides, there is a white window strip that projects light onto the LCD display in JVI. The brighter the lighting - the brighter the LCD, which allows you to always clearly see the camera settings in JVI. For example, on many CZKs, I don’t see the LCD at all on a bright day or when shooting in backlight. In conditions with poor lighting, the green LCD backlight turns on, and you can notice how the white bar-window starts to glow green.
exposure carried out using a 5-segment sensor, I have no complaints about the measurement. The focusing system uses only one, central, focusing sensor (I do not know its type), the camera supports focusing, as well as the operation of an electronic rangefinder with lenses with a relative aperture of at least 1: 5.6. Of course, sometimes it is quite difficult to work with aiming by only one central point, because you constantly have to use the tactics of 'pointed - recomposed - removed'. The camera can operate in three focusing modes: M, AF-S, AF-Cwhich are switched by a lever near the camera mount.
The camera control is very simple. It’s enough to charge the film, and the setup is no different from modern Nikon advanced cameras, which have an additional monochrome display.
The camera has the following buttons:
- '+ -', for amendment exposure within + -5 ev Although the scale itself has a graphic designation + -2e.v., correction is made by third stop.
- measurement method selection button exposure (matrix, weighted average, dot)
- ISO selection button, this parameter is set either manually or automatically by the DX code on the film roller
- button 'Mode', to select one of the shooting modes: P, A, S, M, Pd, Ph. Ph mode works in a similar way to Program P mode, with the only difference that it tries to set the optimal fast shutter speed (Programm High), and Pd sets the optimal slower shutter speed.
- Drive button to select one of the drive modes S, Ch, Cl.
- button 'ME' for multiple exposures. You can take up to 9 pictures in multiple exposuresto turn off multiple exposure, just set the value to 1.
- timer button, the timer can be set to a delay of 2 to 30 seconds, and also choose a two-shot mode.
- af-l button that locks focus.
- depth of field preview button.
- red button for rewinding the film. The button is only activated if pressed simultaneously with the 'ME' button (foolproof).
- AE-lock button for fixing exposure.
- there is also a button for forced backlight LCD in JVIBut there is no backlight for the main monochrome display.
A slight difference (from modern advanced Nikon central control centers) in control is another power-on lever. The lever is not under the index finger near the shutter button, but simply on the top of the camera. It has three positions: OFF, ON, BEEP (on, off and signal). In the 'signal' mode, the camera also turns on, just additionally activates a sound notification.
Without a crochet, I affirm that to control the camera after Nikon D700 и D80 you don’t have to get used to it at all, just take it and take it off, everything is intuitively clear. In addition, the camera lies well in the hand, the entire handle is rubberized. Additionally, you can use the remote control cable (the photo below shows the connector for its connection).
A small inconvenience, in comparison with modern central brake call centers, is a small selection of shutter speeds. You can set the values on the Nikon AF N8008s: bulb, 30 s, 15 s, 8 s, 4 s, 2 s, 1 s, 1/2, 1/4, 1/8, 1/15, 1/30, 1 / 60, 1/125, 1/250, 1/500, 1/1000, 1/2000, 1/4000 and 1/8000 seconds, that is, excerpt changes in feet. Exposure Flash sync is 1/250 second.
Amazingly, the Nikon AF N8008s can shoot at 3.3 frames per second, which is more than mine Nikon D80, yes, and from Nikon D800 the old filmmaker is practically not far behind.
Since this is a very old camera, it only supports working with lenses such as AF, Non-G (without a focus motor and with aperture control ring). With AF-S, AF-I lenses, the camera will not focus. The stabilizer will not work with Nikon VR lenses.
With G-type lenses (without an aperture ring), you can shoot in either P (Ph, Pd) or S mode. In M and A modes, iris control is not supported and the iris will always be completely closed.
The camera supports metering exposure with manual Ai lenses, Ai-s at the same time the electronic range finder works. For more convenient work with the camera, you can use the special Multi-Control Back MF-21 back cover, which will allow you to use some additional functions.
The camera does not have a built-in flash, but it can work with external flashes Nikon SB-20, SB-22, SB-23, etc. With my Nikon flash SB-900 the camera only works in manual mode either in Auto Non-TTL Mode.
For those who have shot with Soviet Zeniths and other non-autofocus cameras all their lives, I can assure you that the Nikon AF N8008s is a miracle of engineering. After my Zenith-E, the Nikon AF N8008s experience is so amazing that I can't even find anything to compare with.
Nikon AF N8008s is powered by 4 AA batteries, for work I use NiMh batteries, which are enough for 4-5 film rolls of 36 frames each. The camera automatically charges and rewinds the film, and also rewinds it when necessary. The film compartment opens only when two latches are pressed simultaneously. There is a special window in the compartment through which you can see if the film roller is inserted.
Sample photos on Nikon AF Nikkor 28-105mm 1: 3.5-4.5D
Sample photos on Cosina MC 19-35mm 1: 3.5-4.5
Find more sample photos taken with the Nikon AF N8008s in the review. Nikon AF Nikkor 85mm 1: 1.8D.
Prices for modern Nikon cameras in popular stores can look at this link.
In comments Can I ask you a question on the topic and you will answer, and you can also express your opinion or describe your experience. Many little things for a photo can be found on AliExpress.
Actually, I don't do film camera reviews. Nikon AF N8008s is an exception, because I sometimes shoot with this camera, and it also poses for shooting with different lenses, for reviews. Of course, there are a ton of much better analog cameras out there. Nikon AF N8008s I took for the article 'Mirror Full Frame, 28 MP for 240 cu'after which the camera got accustomed to me. Sometimes, there is nothing better than loading a clip of fresh film, leaving in search of adventure with Nikon AF N8008s, and then handing over the film for development and waiting for what happened there.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval.
It’s a pity that you don’t do reviews of NIkon film cameras, it would be very interesting to read your opinion on different models, both fully mechanical and digitally controlled. Pros and cons, compatibility with different optics and so on. In particular, I want to buy a Nikon film with an autofocus screwdriver, but at the same time I want not electronic control of the shooting parameters, but mechanical, for the soul to shoot :)
Good evening, I still did not understand whether exposure metering with Soviet lenses on this camera would work, tell me please)
"The camera supports exposure metering with manual Ai lenses, Ai-S while the electronic rangefinder works"
Paradoxically, after reading the article and the comments THREE times from cover to cover, I ordered myself a similar camera ... Fantastic and the worst thing about this in all is that, having got my fill of digital, I will most likely eat on film for a long time. Nikkor's manuals 60x 70x to help.
Button designation? There is no understanding in the shift off on, when shifting to the side on, the button moves to the end bypassing on. What does this mean ? Thanks for the answer !
The answer in the article is to turn on the sound. Read
Combined housing. There is drowning.
Those. plastic on top? saw frayed specimens that looked like metal - aluminum.
PS and why after each of my comments does any picture attach? Where does it come from?)) Previously, this was not.
Yes, the top is mostly plastic.
Really? This is not your photo with the A6000?
no, not mine. I don't know where it comes from) In another review about the Canon FD lens, I left a comment - also some kind of picture stuck. What is different every time))
I will sort this out. The site has moved to another hosting. Possible malfunctions.
Are the lenses of this Nikon AF N8008s camera suitable for mounting on a Nikon D 90? For example, AF Nikor 35-70 1: 3,3-4,5?
Yes, they do.
Good evening Arkady, tell me what to choose on film Nikon f801s (n8008) mainly on film shooting portrait, landscape (rarely architecture). Thanks .
Of course we are not talking about top-end optics! from available.
Good day. Speak the budget, please
10 tr
may 15
In this case, you can take the excellent Nikon F100 on eBay
I no longer see the point, occasionally shooting, for the soul. there is a figure and a full frame from Sony a7, it's not that ...
portrait of a large-faced and half-length (daughter of 6 years) and her on the background of nature .. purpose of shooting. I just shot it at the zenith before, but now I want a photo for the soul (remember youth so to speak))) I bought a new f801s, although there is an X-300 minolta and it shoots quite well. there is a manual, but Nikon was not with me yet. thanks in advance !
Any glass will do, even with a motor
thanks for the help !
Wagons: Normal (15-20 tr) Nikon 24-85mm 1: 2.8-4 D IF, cheap Nikon AF 28-85mm 1: 3.5-4.5, wide angle only (16-20 tr): Nikon ED AF 18-35mm 1: 3.5-4.5D. Fixes: inexpensive aperture 50mm (4-5 tr): Nikon AF Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.8D, good 50mm (with F2.2-2.5) (8-12 tr): Nikon AF Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.4D, portrait (also with F2.5) (14-18 tr): Nikon AF Nikkor 85mm 1: 1.8D.
thanks for the help !
I didn’t figure out why in the “A” mode, as the aperture priority does not work on the digital, I tested it with the Nikon 50-1,8 D lens ...
Arkady, good afternoon. Thanks again for your site. I want to buy this unit, and I can not figure out the lenses. I have all G. lenses. Can I somehow control the aperture (at least through shutter priority mode)? Thanks.
To work with G lenses, better look at the F80 (N80) or F100
Thanks for the advice. f100 is much more expensive, and less often on sale. I would be grateful if one of the owners tells me how this device works with G lenses.
Arkady, your opinion about the work of exposure compensation is interesting. Shutter speed and aperture change in stops. How does exposure compensation work in third steps?
Yes, the impression from the review is that this is not a camera, but an airplane. And in those same years, in the crumbling USSR, Zenits and other Vigilants were still being produced according to the norms of fifty years ago ...
Good afternoon, Arkady and everyone who reads the topic. I have a Nikon N90S without a battery compartment. My hands have been scratching it for a long time, but I can’t use this beautiful camera due to the lack of a battery compartment. I can’t find it anywhere. Can you tell me.
ps I do not use ebay. Something there now the requirements are inadequate at registration.
If you have friends in the States, on nikonusa.com this thing costs 27 USD
In America, unfortunately, there are no friends! (
Then there is a second option - to buy on Ibei through an intermediary. I have been doing this for a long time, because I do not want to deal with either registration or correspondence. The intermediary's margin is around 15% of the selling price, shipping, of course, is on you. Ibei has the same thing at a price of 22.85.
Well, yes, as an option. You only need to find an intermediary! )))
Ask around at the Lance Club. There, it seems, many people buy on Ibei. After all, there are websites of firms that mediate purchases at online auctions, including Ibei.
Hello. Thank you for your resource. Very informative. I have an F801S, but, unfortunately, it’s very difficult to get the film, and it’s even harder to develop. I decided to switch to a digital mirror. There is an ordinary digital camera with hyperzoom, but they do not suit me in terms of functionality. I love these shutter speed / aperture priorities and manual therapy. I take pictures from case to case. I want to take Nikonovskoe, since the lens and the flash are simple but there are already and do not have to spend money (speedlight SB-50DX and TAMRON Aspherical XR 28-200 macro). Taking pictures of the landscape. The budget is approximately 15tr. Please tell me the model. Thanks.
Good day. Any models with a focus motor. Nikon D80, D90, D200 etc.
Thanks. Not a sprinkled cheapest is the D700?
Let me answer myself. As ebay showed from Nikon's DSLRs, yes. I did not look at other firms.
I sell such a camera.
Write to mail: stanislav.danylov@gmail.com
Thanks for your review!
I found this fotik on the Internet and thought about buying.
Thanks to your feedback, I’m sure to buy)
Question to users of this device: what is the focusing screen of this camera? I plan to shoot with MF lenses, so the question is critical for me. Is there focus confirmation? Are there wedges? What is the general impression of working with MF lenses on this camera? Thank you in advance!
I do not know whether the comments are still rising from here or not, but I will still ask those who used it. I plan to buy this camera, all the reviews on the network are laudatory, but I don't have a problem with the lenses, and I'm not going to take it, all the glasses are either old manual or modern ones with a motor, so you have to turn everything with handles. How is she doing with manual focus? On younger nikons, this is a pain, even a confirmation point does not help much. Is the big, bright viewfinder just enough to get a good shot, no wedges or anything? .. And yet, did I understand correctly that the exposure meter will not work with glasses without a diaphragm control lever?
By and large, JVI is not difficult to focus on sharpness. But it's not worth focusing on the confirmation point. Exposure metering will work with and without any lens (this is indicated in the review).
In fairness, with a dot it's easier than without it, I tried this and that, and the dot gives a better result than if by eye, but it is often difficult to see.
I read about froze, but, apparently, I misunderstood. Doesn't the camera need to know all the others to calculate the recommended parameter? Let's say you know the ISO and aperture numbers to calculate the shutter speed?
If it is ai, ai-s, af, d, g lens, it already knows the aperture or its displacement from the open one, if it is manual (without a jump rope) - it is measured by the current value (the jump rope does not work there)
Wow, I thought they only come from the given values. Thank you very much for the answers, I will dwell on it then, especially since they are decent on the secondary. Initially, I rolled my lip on fg, but after a week of searching, it is clear that a full automatic machine in working order is much easier to find.
Oh, and one last thing, I forgot to ask. How different is the metering quality between this camera and the 8008? Just choosing between a good 8008 and a shabby 8008s, I don't need autofocus, does it make sense to sacrifice the camera state for better metering?
Most likely do not differ in any way
Please explain in detail the feed mode and modes under the “Mode” button.
Broach - how many times and at what speed the camera will shoot after pressing the trigger. S - once, Ch and CL - until the tape ends. Ch - at maximum speed, CL - two frames per second.
Mode - almost the same modes as on the CZK: program, aperture and shutter speed priorities, manual. Arkady wrote about the differences in different versions of the software in the article.
In general, literally two hours ago, I downloaded the full instructions for the device here (I don't know if links to a third-party can be used, I seem to have seen it): https://www.butkus.org/chinon/nikon/nikon_f-801s_af/nikon_f-801s_a_af.htm
Good day to all! I am very worried about this question, is it possible to install modern studio flash synchronizers on this camera in the studio? Will it harm the camera from this and will it work with them at all?
There will be no problems. A regular manual sync with a center sync pin will work well
Muy ilustrativo tu articulo a raiz del mismo se parece mucho a mi Nikon f90x y tambien tengo una Zenit pero el espejo no se mueve pero uso el objetivo Helios-44M-4 2/58 con adaptador que me da confirmacion de enfoque para la Nikon y estoy gratamente sorprendido por las fotos conseguidas. Escaneo el negativo con la camara digital.
Great functionality. The camera is excellent, with a huge disadvantage, for which I am ready to kick the designers. Why the hell did they remove the synchronization port from the body? Absolutely any brick has it, I even shoot with flash normally in pre-war Kyiv, but on a modern Nikon camera from the 90s it’s not there!!!! The hot shoe doesn't understand the trigger, that's right! Don’t write to me about crooked hands and that you need to shoot in manual mode, IT DOESN’T WORK! The flash only works in the slave, and not in the manual, but a flash on the camera is a sign of a fool. You need a synchronizer and a group of flashes for basic work in the studio and outside. This minus negates all the advantages of the camera and turns it into a tool for an amateur landscape photographer. I'm shocked by Nikon!
I’ll write anyway - what kind of trigger is that? It’s a common problem that not all triggers are suitable and work adequately; I’ve encountered this myself more than once. Emotions are unnecessary, a professional solves the problem and does not inflate it
Sorry for the stupid question for a newbie. If you set the timer for 2 seconds, is it activated? How to turn it off? Choices range from 2 to 30 seconds and double. There is no OFF option. I don’t want to waste valuable frames of expensive film on experiments..
I understood it this way. The timer can be set for at least 2 seconds. To activate it, you need to hold down the timer button, select the appropriate time, press the photo button and that’s it. The timer icon will flash on the LCD and it will go off after the selected time. To turn on the timer again, you need to hold down the timer button again and select the time, then press the button to take a photo (while not releasing the timer button) and the timer will work.
I hope I explained it clearly)
I bought this miracle, but I can’t figure out how to turn off the backlight. I figured out how to turn it on, but I can’t turn it off (
I liked the review of 10 years of virginity :)
Cool, warm, lamp photos of Crimea, not yet occupied, open to everyone. I once took with me a FED-3 film brick along with a digital brick. Usually you want to shoot beautiful landscapes, but how much do you shoot with a 50mm Industar?