Camera Nikon D3000 Is a direct descendant of the well-known line Nikon D40, D40x, D60 Having experience with Nikon D60 I immediately realized that the review will be almost the same as for D60because the Nikon D3000 is just an upgrade D60but still there were some interesting points worth considering.
Nikon D3000 review
First you need to understand that in the reviews a lot of attention is paid to the technical characteristics or just the characteristics of a particular camera, in Radozhiv we will try to translate strange and incomprehensible numbers and notation in this review into a language that is understandable for lovers of high-quality photos. But this model is aimed at the market of relatively cheap and simple digital SLR cameras.
If you were looking or looking or just reading this review, then you are probably already familiar with the line of low-end cameras from Nikon, this Nikon D40, Nikon D40x, D60, D3000, D3100, D3200, D3300, D5000, D5100, D5200, D5300, D5500 All these cameras are quite similar in management, but each subsequent model has more and more functions and takes better photos and videos.
Features of the D3000 camera that you should pay attention to when buying or just when using:
1. D3000 has a CCD matrix with 10 MP... But do not forget that the megapixel race, for the most part, is not a race for quality, you can take a look at my article Battle of Megapixels. The average amateur can hardly find the difference between 6 Mp Nikon D40 and 10 megapixels Nikon D3000, even on A4 prints. The size of the matrix (physical) remains unchanged for all APS-C cameras (+ - fractions of millimeters). The physical size of the D3000 is the same as D3100, D7000, D5200. At low ISOs, the Nikon D3000 can produce a picture no worse than Nikon D7000.
2.In D3000 no focusing motor for non-motorized lenses. This is one of the most important points for this camera. It is believed that by purchasing a camera with a “motor”, that is, with a lens focusing drive, it will be possible to significantly save money. The question is quite controversial. But the fact remains that a number of lenses will not automatically focus on this camera, which will limit the choice of optics for growth or development in photography. This must be clearly understood and taken into account. For an upgrade after the whale lens, I advise you to take a look at Nikon 50mm F1.8G lenswhich has a huge aperture and will allow you to get an interesting picture with a shallow depth of field. If you need a telephoto lens to reach further, then a cheap option Nikon 55-200 f / 4-5.6G IF-ED AF-S DX VR Zoom-Nikkor will be just right.
3. Matrix Cleaning System. The cleaning system really helps to avoid clogging the matrix with fine dust. This really will rarely allow real cleaning. In the camera, you can specify when the camera will clean the matrix, I recommend cleaning when the camera is turned off.
4. Compact and lightweight... Do not bother with the fact that the camera is made of plastic, and not of aluminum or composites, this gives the camera lightness and you need to understand that the amateur does not need to use the camera in extreme conditions and overload it with work as much as possible.
5. Shooting speed is an important indicator. At D3000 it is 3 frames per second, a normal indicator, the same speed and Nikon D80which is much more functional than the amateur D3000. Again, amateurs do not need 10 frames per second at all, high-firing cameras are needed only for rather specific purposes. The set speed is sufficient for 99% of basic needs.
6. Image quality. Do not believe anyone that this or that camera shoots well or badly. These are just people's prejudices. We can talk about benchmarks, but in real life, the quality of the final image depends on a dozen factors and the camera is far from the first of them. In terms of quality, I will say that it fulfills its functionality 100%, just important how to take pictures.
7. Nikon D3000 has 11 focus points cameras have the same focusing module Nikon D200, D80, D90, D3100, D3200, D5100. More details in the section on focus systems.
8. Great 3 inch display. Unlike the D40 or D60, it’s half an inch larger, but still has the same 230.000 points
9. Must be considered crop factor camera which is equal to 1.5x. This means that the camera when working with lenses will narrow the viewing angle of the lens. And if, for example, you use a lens with a 50mm focal length, then the viewing angle will be the same as that of a 75mm lens on a regular full-frame camera. This is absolutely normal for APS-C cameras.
10. D3000 now works with EXPEED processor
11. Minimum excerpt flashes 1 / 200s, Nikon D40 in this regard, 2,5 times better.
12. The function of rotating the image on the screen in horizontal and vertical position. It is very convenient when the camera is turned, all the information for shooting is turned on the display and any parameter can be corrected without problems.
In brief about the main features - it is an opportunity to change ISO from 100 to 1600 + one HI1 value equivalent 3200. On HI1 I do not recommend shooting at all. Unlike Nikon 40, it became possible to lower the ISO to 100, this will allow you to use fast lenses during the day without fear not to fit into the minimum shutter speed of 1/4000 and get overexposure. On Nikon 40, it’s already quite difficult to invest in 1.8/200 second in the afternoon on F1 and ISO 4000 in the afternoon. The camera has a lot of settings for editing the footage - from working with RAW files, to creating a movie in avi format from photos. Also at the camera, the viewfinder covers 95% of the frame, and you need to remember that 5% of the frame will still be captured on the left \ right \ top \ bottom in the picture.
What I liked when working with the camera:
Weight, the weight is really small. The camera shutter is quiet, quieter than Nikon D40 or Nikon D90. I liked the large display and ergonomics - there are no extra buttons and everything is just elementary to use. There is a great guide for beginners. And the Nikon Multi-CAM 1000 focus sensor is the same as in Nikon D90. I really liked the function of rotating the screen with horizontal and vertical position of the camera.
What did not like:
The lack of a million functions present in older models, but this is a purely subjective opinion. Also, I didn’t like that little has been improved compared to Nikon D60, by and large, only the number of focus points. I didn’t like the small size for the buffer, if you shoot RAW, then already at frame 4 the camera will slow down with a flash drive of class 6. Also, I did not like that when ADL the camera “thinks” much longer when saving a picture. The noise level starting from ISO 800 greatly affects the picture quality; you cannot do without the noise reduction function.
What is the best way to use the camera and what to configure?
The FN button can be programmed by choosing one of several options, I advise you to set the ISO quick change function on it.
To buy this else?
Preferably a pretty bag, the main thing is that it is comfortable, you can buy a bigger bag to fit an additional lens. It is possible and desirable to also buy lenses, first of all, this is a high-aperture fixture and one telephoto lens. The main thing is to remember that important how to take pictures, and not what technique to do it on.
He shared his photos Radmir Karimov:
UPDATED
Nikon D3000+ Nikon AF Nikkor 85mm 1: 1.4D.
What upgrade can I do after Nikon D3000? If you decide to change your D3000 to another camera, then I recommend switching to class cameras Nikon D90, Nikon D7000or on the camera of a similar amateur class Nikon D5100, Nikon D5200.
Conclusions:
Nikon D3000 has proven itself by showing excellent ergonomics and ease of operation. Tips will always help a beginner to navigate the settings, and flexible firmware will allow you to quickly and easily use the camera for any purpose. Who wants to upgrade after Nikon D40, D40x, D60, D50, D70(s) - will not receive anything particularly new.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval.
... and an additional display, and a screwdriver. Oh yes, and the small main display :(
Honestly, I would have bought 80 because of a screwdriver, but I can’t find it in good condition. D300 sold a carcass for $ 320, with a range of 37k. I don’t even know if he did the right thing or not. He did not like the color. By the way, Arkady, can you say rubber pads in the D80 or as in the d60, d3000?
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D80 has one rubber pad under the thumb, it costs a penny.
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The d80 has a disease - the gear wheel of the mirror drive (or the shutter, I don't remember exactly) breaks down. So if you take this camera, then only with a minimum mileage, otherwise you risk throwing your money down the drain. You can also consider d200, he himself at one time changed d3000 to it. Its color is more restrained than that of d80, and slightly different than that of d3000, but at the same time it will not turn out to call it bad.
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I had three different d80s with a range of 150.000 each, not every amateur photographer will squeeze at least 100.000 from the camera.
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With such luck, you need to buy lottery tickets)). Gear failure is a well-known and well-known disease in certain circles. There is no point in repairing it, it is cheaper and more reliable to buy another carcass.
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I can say the same thing that the d80 is a very long-running camera.
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nonsense, my mileage is 16 because the gear died... repairs are very expensive!
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Why doesn’t it make sense? I was replaced with it in a couple of days, it cost about 1500-2000 rubles. (I do not remember the exact price of the repair). This option is clearly better if there are no other problems and the camera is not too ushatanny.
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Yuri, do not tell me where the repairs were done, a similar problem.
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Because the D80 is sold in perfect condition with mileage of up to 5-10k operations for 4-5 ty, it goes without saying in perfect condition.
So if the camera runs half an hour at least, it makes no sense to change the gear for 2k.
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this gear was given to you. I've changed them to D90 myself many times. no special problems. only this is nikon, not kenon, and everything is not done in a smart way - instead of normal connectors, you need to unsolder a lot of wires. annoying, yes))
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And where did you get the idea that there are connectors in Nikon cameras and no wires need to be unsoldered?
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I did not immediately understand the meaning of your phrase. Apparently, you wanted to say that everything is smart in Canon cameras - connectors instead of soldered wires.
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I agree!!!...I had a D80 with 6t mileage. ….gear-dead!!
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Who can tell me if it is possible to use a vacuum cleaner for a car to clean the dust from an open bayonet?
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can be ordinary, only gently
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buddy, go to a psychiatrist - he will give you pills!
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I can sell. Mileage 2600
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D80? In what city? And how much is it?
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and the girth itself is not rubber?
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Rubber, but from something else. It is tougher, more similar to the Canon one and does not fall off
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Thanks guys. Today I bought another Sony Alpha NEX 5 photocompact, a complete set, mileage 7k, for 65u. Condition as new. I don’t know, I immediately fell in love with him. Here Arkady has a review on him. Fot-small monster with aps-c matrix, probably the only one with this size, and even with interchangeable optics. There was firmware 01, put the last 05-pleased, added focus picking (for manual optics) and the purpose of the buttons (now there is no need to go into the menu). So guys, you will see at a good price, take it, you will not regret it.
zs sorry for not being in the subject ...
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Write your feelings in the NEX 5 thread.
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Fotik seems not bad. But somehow I took a purple flower in nature, and then a blue one. And at home, and on the phone screen I realized that the purple flower is sfotkan blue, and blue - purple. I decided to take pictures of multi-colored cardboard boxes at home and the picture from the Internet directly from the monitor, the result is the same. Interestingly, the Nikon company knows about such a glitch?
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Knows. Google for the keywords “metamerism” and “Luther-Ives test”.
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I read it, interesting, but not clear)) the conclusion is not correct vision? well let's see. in life, the color of the petals of these flowers is saturated blue. after taking a picture I see them on the camera screen and on the computer monitor is pale purple. So?
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Was the BB in the camera correctly configured? I usually come across these phloxes pink and purple, I don’t remember the blue ones, although Google says that such exist.
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BB is set to auto. on the internet I found photos of flowers such as I remembered.
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No. The conclusion is that our vision is adaptive and color perception depends on the viewing conditions, and the camera sees it as it is, but it can make a mistake with the WB.
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On the one hand, the wrong white balance. On the other hand, the camera’s photosensor cannot (and generally cannot) give a response identical to the eye. Therefore, for certain colors, especially in the extreme parts of the spectrum and non-spectral, such as purple, nuances are possible.
One must still decide and add an article on this topic.
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Judging by the white-gray pebbles on the background and black soil, BB, in general, did not screw up. SSD-shnye cameras often handle blue incorrectly - the sky will turn violet, etc. As mentioned above, nuances are possible.
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generally an interesting moment and I think Nikon has nothing to do with it ... I found a purple dumbbell pancake and took a picture on Nikon, and on 2 different smartphones and all three sensors see the pancake in blue ...
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To put it simply. There are spectral colors - pure, which are in the spectrum. These are photons of the same wavelength. There are non-spectral colors. These are colors with complex spectra, which include many photons of different wavelengths at once. Spectral colors range from red to purple. Non-spectral colors are white and all shades of gray, brown and magenta. Well, a lot of shades when pure colors are mixed with shades of gray and so on.
The human eye sees honest violet at the far end of the spectrum - blue first, then violet. But it also has a peculiarity - different spectra give the same response, which the eye perceives as the same color. This phenomenon is called metamerism. The spectra are different, the feeling is the same. Therefore, when there are elevations in the spectrum from the blue and at the same time from the red edge, the eye perceives them as purple, violet or lilac.
The monitor uses three different types of filters in front of the lamp to reproduce color. Filters change their characteristics, letting in light of greater or intensity. Their band is rather narrow. And due to metamerism, we can give a sensation of one spectrum, presenting another spectrum to the eye. These are the red, green and blue elements. In most cases, this works. There are few really purple objects in the world, more purple ones. And so it turns out, when you photograph your real purple flower, the color spectrum of which looks like a tubercle at the very edge, where there are short waves, the eye sees it honestly, the camera registers honestly - there is some kind of response from the blue part of the camera sensor. No long and medium waves, nothing red and green. But the monitor cannot reproduce this color. He can simulate a similar color (for the eye) by adding red to it (you do this by changing the white balance). True, the whole picture floats. For all other colors this phenomenon is not so noticeable, but it is especially for violet colors. Therefore, you can have outwardly two identical violet colors - one of which is pure spectral, the second is a mixture. The eye will see them in the same way. Well, it will have the same sense of color. The camera will register differently. One as a mixture of red and blue, the other as pure blue. The monitor will reproduce accordingly - in one there will be red and blue, in the other blue. And get the corresponding result.
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This seems to be part of the reason why sometimes you just can't seem to get the color that was in reality. And the camera screen, just in red and blue, often messes up, showing a completely implausible color, while a normal IPS displays everything correctly.
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The brain automatically adjusts everything to white balance... What is white for us is not a fact for the camera, even pink walls turn green in the light of fluorescent lamps.
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I have a Nikon D300 mainly for family photos, at the same time I shot my considerable film archive of bw and color, using an inverted Vega12V prefix of my own design, * from all sorts of rubbish * I’m satisfied with the quality. The camera ravines are small, but processing in the same lightroom is easy, efficient, and I achieve what I intended.
As for the pixels, in 3000 10MP they write in 3200 24mp, but it looks like in a joke:
Armenian radio is asked how the three-star Armenian brandy differs from the five-star brandy.
- we ourselves are surprised - answers - pour from one barrel.
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Hello! Has anyone disassembled this body? Is there a battery? Something always seemed to me that when removing the battery from it, the clock did not reset. And then he lay down for a little ... and the 35th yongnigicho sucked the entire charge. Now, each time you pull it out, the date is reset. Is this how it should be or am I buggy? All other nikonis keep the date.
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he asked, he answered))) she has a rechargeable neon inside her. It remains to find out the type and size.
The camera clock is powered by an independent, rechargeable power source, which is
charged as necessary when the main battery is installed or the camera is powered by an
optional EP-5 power connector and EH-5a AC adapter (0 168). Three days of charging will
power the clock for about a month. If a message warning that the clock is not set is displayed
when the camera is turned on, the clock battery is exhausted and the clock has been reset.
Set the clock to the correct time and date.
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Neonka cannot be charged - it is a gas discharge lamp. The lithium battery should be there. Must be charged from an inserted main battery or a connected power supply. If it does not charge for several days, then change it.
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Tyuyu, it can't ... GAS DISCHARGE. The fact that her capacity is small does not mean that she is not a battery!
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Hmm, the humanities. Neon is a LIGHT. Where did this word come from? Something Nikon has not a word about a light bulb, only batteries and batteries. I do not advise to climb into the carcass with such knowledge.
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Enlighten https://ru.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/%D0%9D%D0%B5%D0%BE%D0%BD%D0%BE%D0%B2%D0%B0%D1%8F_%D0%BB%D0%B0%D0%BC%D0%BF%D0%B0
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Do not pay attention, hike, troll
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http://lurkmore.to/%D0%A3_%D0%BD%D0%B5%D0%B9_%D0%B2%D0%BD%D1%83%D1%82%D1%80%D0%B5_%D0%BD%D0%B5%D0%BE%D0%BD%D0%BA%D0%B0 - how boring you are.
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There is something else along the way. I asked myself, I came up with it myself, I answered it myself, I climbed it myself, I broke it myself, I threw it out myself ... Although maybe they just let me go for the weekend ...
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Yes, man is joking. I understood the question, and the answer, and humor. :)
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And why is it HERE? Maybe make a literary page? It's hard to write a good solution to a problem.
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Hmm, with such an inert gas, instead of a worldview, I would now explain for technical literacy ... I thought this kind of current in classmates is also found on photo forums. But no, and Arkady's blog did not pass this fate :)
In the 2nd message I gave an exhaustive answer to my own question. Especially for Vitali I will translate the official answer:
YANDEX TRANSLATE
The camera clock is powered by an independent, rechargeable power source that recharges as needed when the main battery is installed or the camera is powered by the optional EP-5 power connector and EH-5a AC adapter (0 168). Three days of charging, turn on the watch for about a month. If a message appears stating that the clock is not set when the camera is turned on, the clock battery is exhausted and the clock has been reset.
Set the clock to the correct time and date.
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Technically, most likely a small ionistor is installed there, since the charge controller is not indicated. You can safely change if necessary.
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The person is clearly not in the subject, more assumptions than real knowledge, ionizers, batteries, that's all, just don't take his posts to heart :)
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Come on? I already wrote this above. And what about the worldview - what does it have to do with it? Reading books, I do not learn quotations, so that later "pontovat" them to the point and no. I already wrote - I asked myself, answered myself and, laughing, ran away into the distance ... Type of that.
On business. Hardly an ionistor - what will happen to him? And it is unlikely that he is a decent self-discharge. And the controller for lithium will most likely be on the board itself.
Example on D5200 https://photo-parts.com.ua/parts/IMG_STORE/Nikon%20D5200%20PCB/Nikon%20D5200_pcb.jpg
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Parsing d3000 to the main board https://ru.ifixit.com/Guide/Nikon+D3000+Motherboard+Replacement/51393?lang=en
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The d5200 really looks like an ionistor, but I don’t find anything on the d3000 boards. Perhaps they didn’t bother at all and the clock on the power supply simply had a capacitor.
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there is a camera Nikon d3000 Kit with a range of about 20 frames in very good condition. I can offer for 000 5 rubles t 500 8906 895
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Tell me, does it make sense to buy this camera in 2020, as the first camera, for starters, for learning photography, and amateur photography?
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For training, any camera is suitable. Specifically on this camera, depending on who and in what condition you will get it. And also a question of price. If at the same cost there are newer ones, or models higher than the level, then it makes sense to take them.
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The D3000 does not have a liveView mode (shoot through the screen) and does not shoot video. To learn to photograph is not important, but it is important to determine the price. The D3100 can do both, so the D3000 is interesting if its price is well below the D3100. Any item is good value for money.
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You can start with a soap dish. After all, the main thing is not the technique but the skill of the photographer. At a higher level, creativity comes to the fore. Well, this is when they have mastered the basic professional techniques.
See only that the capabilities of the low-level device do not discourage photography at all.
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better d3100 due to live view
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Maron did not choose between 3000 and 3100. Therefore, there can be any camera here, and not necessarily Nikon.
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The most affordable and functional DSLRs, in my opinion, are just the D3100, D90, Canon 450D, 40D (cheap, functionality with live view). But, of course, you can start anywhere.
I do not particularly consider Pentax, Sony A, and others, since the systems themselves are much less popular.
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the D300s or 50D will still be more interesting. if we consider old people. The D90 is a good camera (for all my idiosyncrasy towards Nikon, especially younger cameras). however, now I would not advise it - over the years, the gear on the shutter and mirror drive motor is cracking, and its replacement, with a penny cost of the gear itself, is very difficult, you need to disassemble almost the entire camera.
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do cameras Nikon D40, Nikon D40x, D60 and this D3000 have the same CCD matrix, except for the number of pixels? I just think it's worth looking among newer models than the D40, if the sensor is just as interesting.
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They have different matrices, therefore the color will be different. If 6MP in d40 is enough, then there is no particular sense in buying something else, except for trying it.
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The D40 has a different matrix. Nikon's D40x, D60 and this D3000 are the same. The D40 has a bold pixel and good skin tone.
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How to work with it with manual optics, does the rangefinder and exposure metering work?
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The rangefinder works, the measurement is not.
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I had a D40 on duty, which I got as a mouth cover when buying a lens. After a while I felt the need for a simple everyday camera. And then, as usual, something interesting, but there is nothing to photograph. Since the free D40 were no longer found, the glance at the famous site fell on the D3000 in perfect condition. As the seller wrote, with a small defect. The condition, yes, outwardly turned out to be perfect. But inside, someone has done a pretty barbaric soldering iron attempt to replace the memory card slot. I decided to purchase one more device as a donor. Also at the price of scrap metal (about $ 15). Although that one had a broken lens and broken covers, it turned out to be completely working with a mileage of 8k. I had to find a third device for the same money, which became a donor for the first two.
As a result, for less than $ 50, I have one fotik constantly at work, the other rides in the car. And to this there is also a bunch of spare parts, software for software correction of autofocus (it turned out that the “motherboard” cannot just be rearranged from one carcass to another) and invaluable experience :)
The camera is not bad. In conjunction with an 18-70 lens, it gives an acceptable picture.
In general, the device has the right to live in a competitive environment.
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Gadsky T9 !!!
not ROT, but when buying a lens
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Good ph. In his series, I stopped on this model because of the CCD, as I like them better. A video with live nafig is not needed.
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I liked the Nikon d3000 matrix more than the d40, the detail is higher and the color is brighter, I compared it with the same settings, but yes, the noise is 6 MP less or it seems that it is less due to the grain size
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I liked the Nikon d3000 matrix more than the d40, the detail is higher and the color is brighter, I compared it with the same settings, but yes, the noise is 6 MP less or it seems that it is less due to the grain size https://photos.app.goo.gl/oxgo75PrLpyQhzjm8
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Another photo, all shot with an open aperture /
facebook post link YN 35mm lens
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And what kind of lens? 50 1.8?
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YONGNUO 35mm 1:2 (YN35mm F2N) “Standard” mode, the aperture is completely open, the colors are not correct, only shutter speed, the grass is fresh, so the color is juicy, it’s a pity the sun was not overcast. The lens is buggy sometimes the camera does not see it, there is 50 1,8 G, but I don’t like it on crop only for portraits, incl. good to shoot in dark rooms here is an example
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Hmm .., I was just thinking about the same thing) .., I really like the photos from the D40 !!! ..., but then they told me that there would be fire on the D200 in general! ...
I got into the topic and now I’m reading about the d3000))
Of course, everything is very individual ... but your photos are really very juicy!
I wonder what Arkady would say about this, and is there any point in upgrading from the d40 to the d3000 if I have a Nikon purely for enjoying the picture in non-professional use? ..)
I have three systems in my hands (Nikon, Canon, Sony), but the D40 is radically different in the juiciness of the picture ..
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Yes, it’s interesting what Arkady would say, but it seems to me that such an “upgrade” is appropriate if your D40 is completely breathing its last.
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D40 is the most colorful of the entire series in the jeep.
But if you process frames, d200, IMHO, it’s more interesting - the picture is cleaner, and the convenience of shooting / control is simply incomparable, and the support of a screwdriver would not be superfluous.
3000 ... would have been suitable for the role of the first camera 10 years ago. But now, when the cost of all the old tsd-shek is practically equal to each other, there is no point in it.
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Good afternoon, tell me please. Which lens is better 18-55 or xx-105? I don't remember the first two numbers. Regularly comes with 18-55. It was this photo that, by the way, was advised to me for a long time because of the special Honest colors. And, accordingly, the convenience of shooting in auto mode. Allegedly, even 3100 loses in colors.
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18-105 figures, looked. By the way, this photo was recommended to me 10 years ago. And only now I ordered it on Avito with the 18-105 lens mentioned above.
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3100 is already a different matrix and colors, respectively.
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Those wishing to comment on the war and politics - here:
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Шесть
On Youtube, I have no restrictions on comments, they will be published all, absolutely and without restrictions (but maybe not immediately, because YouTube itself automatically filters some)
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Good afternoon, please tell me a good lens for shooting... everything. Mountains, faces, streets, interiors... Moreover, it is important for me that everything I photograph is photographed in auto mode.
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Tamron 18-400/3.5-6.3 Di II VC HLD Model B028 or Tamron 16-300/3.5-6.3 AF Di II VC PZD Macro Model B016
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Thank you. I'll study it.
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Thank you. I'll study it. But I want something better. I looked at the reviews - they are contradictory. I want both sharpness and... in short, maximum versatility and quality.
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Many people advise me as an all-rounder like this: Nikkor AF-S 70-300 1: 4.5-5.6G. What do you think?
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I will say with complete/absolute/fanatical confidence that the 70-300 is not a station wagon, no way, no options :)
Everything at once does not exist. There is no perfect all-round lens that will give you what you want.
My advice is simple - add a couple more lenses to the 18-105, for “macro, and faces, and buildings, and mountains, and forests, etc.”
But if you can’t shoot “mountains, buildings, forests, faces” well with 18-105, then I give 80% that it won’t work with something significantly different.
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Ugh. Thank you, of course.) It’s difficult. The fact is that I am used to taking photographs exclusively in auto mode, without further processing of the footage. Therefore, you just want to press a button and... Get a finished, good photo. Yes, at the amateur level. Yes, mostly for myself, but... Still. In general, I’m really surprised by the range of recommendations. There is so much contradictory advice being given that I don’t really know.
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Ancient advice - buy a soap dish/smartphone. This is your ceiling. And your head won't hurt.
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Yes, this is more about the capabilities of technology. For example, iPhones (which was a discovery and surprise for me) shoot with amazing quality that surpasses many SLR cameras. Although of course the price there is very expensive. And the soap dish and smartphone... Well, there’s absolutely no quality there. And of course it’s different from DSLRs. Although! If we take ancient models, then maybe not by much.
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Moreover, people stubbornly argue even regarding the complete 18-55 (if I’m not mistaken in the numbers) and 18-105. But this is the level of optics - nowhere lower. No professional frills.)) With a point-and-shoot camera, there was no such torment of choice.))) And now I can’t make up my mind for a month now.)) I absolutely don’t want to carry a bunch of lenses around the city. Sometimes I’m just walking along my usual routes and... I wanted to take a photo of something.
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Well, what's the problem with taking photos on 18-105? The more a person delves into his professional activity, the more nuances he learns. You are still very far from the nuances that are discussed on forums
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Yes, at 18-105 there is some kind of sharpness... just lousy. In any lighting, by the way. The pictures are generally not bad, but they seem to be much better with a different lens. But I’m not 100% sure of this, then... I’m trying to read, ask, discuss, but this doesn’t add clarity yet.
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In short, I really want a station wagon a little stronger than the kit ones.
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Please tell us what you did with the 18-105, how you got “sharpness... really lousy,” how you tried to improve it, what you set up, how you shot it, show examples.
I will repeat, probably for the millionth time, another station wagon will not help you significantly. Without any options. Once again, I am writing for re-reading - it is almost impossible to obtain significantly better performance and at the same time a significantly larger range of focal lengths. There is no magic button, lens, etc. to make it “sharp and beautiful.” But you know what there is?
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Especially just nothing. Purely comparison. I noticed that I like similar pictures taken by other people more. But unfortunately (even though this is bad) I won’t give specific examples. I’m writing from my phone, but the photos are on my computer, which is far away. I didn’t make any settings as such – “auto”... Is there probably something like a scrupulous study of the art of photography?)) I know. But anyway. I’m not talking about competing with professionals, but rather about the simplest everyday level. It’s precisely at this level that many people take better pictures. And they have just one lens. But everyone is different. And everyone (which is logical))) praises and recommends mainly their own.
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And what conclusion do you draw?
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There is just no conclusion. That’s why I wrote here, in the hope of getting clarity. There is no clarity yet.)
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It’s just hard for you to come to terms with the fact that you won’t get anything fundamental with the d3000 and other universal lenses. And if you can’t get what you like on 18-105 now, then you won’t get it with any other. You are walking in circles. And here it doesn’t matter whether these are “automatic” modes or not.
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If you don’t want to strain your brain, nothing will help you. No technology can save you, neither existing nor fictional. If you don’t want to strain yourself, ask the neuron to draw you a masterpiece from what you found on your smartphone. These content generation technologies are being developed specifically for the audience you belong to.
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This is a classic trap of an amateur photographer, a manic confidence that a new “even more” universal lens will help you shoot “even more” universally and well :). And then information about each model only gets sucked deeper into the quagmire of choice.
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I agree here.) There is such a thing.)
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From your queries:
“I also want sharpness” - only primes or zooms with a very limited set of focal lengths (magnification factor)
“in short, maximum versatility” - station wagons, quite 18-105
“quality” - only primes or zooms with a very limited set of focal lengths (magnification factor)
“macro” – macro lens only
“and faces, and buildings, and mountains, and forests, etc.” – the neural network will draw on request. Because for faces - portraiture (usually fixed), for buildings - tilt-shift shirik/shirik, for mountains - shirik/extra-wide, for forests - shirik/extra-wide
A station wagon technically cannot have an ultra-wide angle (16-18 mm limit for crop). And it cannot have high optical performance. It will always lose the same sharpness to any cheapest prime. That's why there are so many disputes online. And it’s so difficult for a beginner to come to terms with the idea that the result is influenced by himself, and not by the technique.
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You don’t even have to go outside or into the mountains. Why strain, carry equipment with you, take a smartphone out of your pocket, press buttons... Ask chatpt to draw and show everything you need. Masterpiece button - without leaving the couch.
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I don't understand why these extremes are needed. There is definitely a niche for hobbyists. But this niche certainly has something to look at. Yes, even for those who mainly use auto modes. In general, I got the impression that I walked into an elite, gourmet restaurant with my sandwich, where everyone looks at me with elements of contempt, just because I don’t eat the sandwich with seven forks, as etiquette requires.
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“I want both sharpness and... in short, maximum versatility and quality.”
“I want more. Universal – this includes macro, faces, buildings, mountains, forests, etc.”
These are extremes. There's no such thing. 18-105 plus or minus will cope with tasks at the level of other universal solutions, even the most expensive and coolest ones, like those I wrote: Tamron 18-400 / 3.5-6.3 Di II VC HLD Model B028 or Tamron 16-300/3.5-6.3 AF Di II VC PZD Macro Model B016
Versatility is always a compromise between convenience and quality, not in favor of quality.
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No, what are you talking about? You came to a restaurant, burst into the kitchen and want to cook a gourmet dish, but at the same time using only an ax from ingredients, and spending 5 minutes on time, and then you wonder why the team of cooks in the kitchen is standing and looking at you in bewilderment.
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Nothing like this. But the fact that I came to the restaurant was clearly not up to the level, I already understood. But to Arkady Shapoval - sincere thanks. Even if not immediately, but in the end, he explained it very constructively. Not by talking about the level of my abilities as a photographer (I myself know that there is no level as such), but by explaining technical issues.
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You didn't come to a restaurant. You are asking for free food. And Arkady is a kind person, he tinkers with people like that. Do not “moderate” this Arkady, like the previous 3. No swearing, no politics, just the hard-hitting truth in them.
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Listen, man, what’s the problem, tell me... Is there a fee for the consultation? Is the site paid or what? Tighten up your pride a little. I went to the profile website to seek advice. What's wrong with this? What kind of formulations are there for “messing around with people like that”? I asked, they answered me, they explained... If you consider it beneath your own dignity to explain something to someone, then why are you commenting? HR is off the charts...
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stop it already :)
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Good afternoon. Anyone who knows, please advise a universal lens for Nikon D3000. I have 18-105, but... I want more. Universal - this includes macro, faces, buildings, mountains, forests, etc.
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Gregory, for the situations you specified (mountains, faces, macro, etc.) you already have a lens - 18-105. Do you want mountains? 18 mm and aperture 8-11 will help you. Faces? No problem: 85-105 mm and an open aperture. Macro? Easy: buy macro rings and shoot at full range in manual mode. No macro rings? Buy a reversing filter ring for your lens. It is highly advisable to use a flash with a diffuser.
Do you want it to be like others? OK. Choose the photo you like and simply repeat it. It just seems like it will be simple.
The 18-105 is an excellent lens. Good luck to you
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Gregory: What you are looking for is in your hands - a SAMRPHONE. This is your level. There is no need to write sheets of text.
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I am writing sheets of text because I do not receive a clear, succinct answer, firstly, and because I am trying, it seems, to justify myself - secondly. I don’t quite understand why you should even tell me about my level if I’m asking about lenses. And I’m trying to explain that there is something to discuss, including among amateurs.
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They give you good and correct advice. A new lens won't help you at all. You're stuck on the idea that a new, versatile lens will help you achieve better quality. But if this quality is unattainable with the 18-105, then it will not be achievable with other universal lenses. This is difficult to come to terms with; amateur photographers think that new technology will help them achieve the best. But this is not true (in the case of station wagons). Therefore, you are advised not to search for a solution using a lens, but quite seriously, like an adult, they are recommended to pay attention to other possibilities. Including the possibility of customizing the same d3000.
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Thank you.) Finally, at least some constructive specifics. Although people around, for some reason, recommend buying a slightly better lens. Saying that even the D3000 continues to remain relatively at the same level and that almost more depends on the lens. And at the same level.
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And what were you advised to buy?
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For some reason, the emphasis is either on Nikon 70-300 or on a tampon with the same numbers. Although there are a huge number of different ones with the same numbers. But for some reason they say that this is exactly it.
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Tamron (autocorrect worked like that)
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So, 70-300 is a telephoto. You have already written about him. There is no way (no way at all!) that can be a replacement for your universal 18-105
It can be an addition. At the same time, Tamron 70-300 exists in approximately 10 modifications. Most likely they meant the last of them - with a stabilizer and VC marking.
To understand how stupid it is, trying to replace 18-105 with 70-300 is like replacing a passenger car with a giant truck.
To experience the difference for yourself, set the zoom ring on your 18-105 to 70mm and shoot the day without ever turning it down. You will be completely deprived of a wide angle.
That’s why, when you already wrote about the 70-300 as a replacement for the 18-105, you were kindly hinted that first, it would be very advisable to understand the basic things, in the same setting of the d3000.
The same sharpness is enhanced in d3000 using two buttons: SHOOTING MODE MENU -> Mode. management snapshot -> Standard SD + press the right arrow on the joystick, set the sharpness to 9 and press OK. Voila, the sharpness has already been increased three times!
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Wow! I didn’t know.) I’ll try. Thank you for the quality educational program.
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Active D-Lighting function when saving a photo and in post-processing mode, is it the same? Is the quality the same in both options?
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