Legend of the last century, the national lens - Jupiter 37A 3,5 / 135. He is called a small telephoto or a large portraiture, which is true. Jupiter 37-A takes first place in my vote on the best Soviet portrait lens in the range of 85-135mm.
Jupiter 37A Lens Overview
Jupiter-37A has interchangeable shank, which is marked on the lens with the letter "A". Replaceable shank allows you to change the "rear" part of the lens, which attaches it to the camera mount. Regarding the replaceable shank, it is necessary to erect a monument to domestic manufacturers for this ingenious move. With the help of an interchangeable shank, this lens can also be attached to cameras under the M42 thread or "H" mount.
Changing the size of the lens Jupiter-37A 3.5 135 when focusing from infinity to MDF
How to use with modern cameras?
'A' lenses with an interchangeable shank, such as the one in this review, are very easy to use on almost any modern digital camera (both DSLR and mirrorless), just select correct adapter. Soviet interchangeable shank 'A' is similar to 'T2 Mount'. The cheapest adapters can be found aliexpress.com.
For use on modern digital SLR cameras Canon EOS need adapter T2-Canon EOS, you can buy such an adapter (interchangeable shank) here. Such an adapter can still be replaced with a set of shank KP-A42 + M42-Canon EOS.
An adapter is required for use on Nikon SLR cameras T2-Nikon F, buy such an adapter (interchangeable shank, analogue KP-A / N) it is possible here.
How to use this lens with cameras of other systems (Pentax, Sony, Fujifilm, Olympus, Panasonic, Samsung, Sigma etc.) - ask in the comments and you will be prompted. If you have any questions on compatibility and adapters - ask in the comments (comments do not require any registration at all).
Jupiter-37A on the ZK
In times of mass use, version with MS was twice as expensive as usual, which actually affects the quality of work. Nevertheless, a lens without an MC feels great with the hood installed. The lens hood can be worn backwards, the hood has special grooves that allow it to be screwed in the opposite state into the thread for the light filter. I know of only one Soviet lens that allows you to put on the hood backwards - and that is Jupiter-37A.
Enlightenment of the lens Jupiter-37A 3.5 135
Most likely, Jupiter 37A became a copy Carl Zeiss Jena DDR MC Sonnar 3,5 / 135 (Sonnara / Zonnara). Both lenses are pretty good, but narrowly focused experts say that the Sonnars are nevertheless better assembled and give a slightly sharper image.
Enlightenment of the rear lens of the Jupiter-37A 3.5 135 lens and the view of the aperture blades
Positive aspects and their brief description:
1. Cheap. Of course, in our time it can be obtained at a fairly low price. This is due to its mass production. This allows novice photographer to get a great picture for low cost.
Interchangeable shank and lens Jupiter-37A
2. Normal enlightenment. But even such enlightenment avoids unnecessary glare, Zaitsev. Removes fear of back and side light. But nevertheless, Jupiter-37A is a little afraid of flare and gives a light veil in the generated image.
Hood on Jupiter-37A dressed back to front and in normal position
3. The lens came with a wonderful case with the emblem of the 80s Olympiad. The lens hood and lens hood are conveniently placed in the case. You can see how the lens cases look here и here.
Difference in enlightenment MS and not the MC version of the lens Jupiter-37A 3.5 135
4. Lens hood in delivery. The metal hood is quite long. It sits very well on the lens. But here is one minus of the lens hood that it is metal, it adds extra weight and when screwing the metal into the metal, the lens hood wedges and then it takes a lot of effort to unscrew it back. So I do not advise tightening it up much.
5. With interchangeable shank. I wrote about this at the beginning of the article. Allows you to use photo systems with different working lengths.
6. As many as 12 aperture blades. Therefore, it can act as an excellent portrait lens with smooth circles to blur the background (it has good bokeh).
7. Non-fixed stroke of the iris ring. Let me explain - the ring does not have fixed aperture values of type 4.5, 5.6, 8, but has a continuous stroke ring. This is very useful when shooting video, when you can smoothly close and open the aperture (and not jerkily at fixed values)
8. The large stroke of the diaphragm F3.5-F22. Pretty maneuverable lens. Jupiter-37A has a function of preset diaphragm... To use this function, you need to strangle the aperture ring towards the camera and release it at the desired aperture value. After that, the diaphragm will close only to the specified value. This is quite convenient when working with manual optics - to focus on a fully open aperture, quickly close to the desired value and shoot.
9. Metal case... As they say - give the people bread and circuses, and here - give glass and metal.
10. It works in minus 15 to plus 45 ° C, it is nice to read about it in the instructions before going on a winter photo walk.
Features and their brief descriptions:
- The weight. Over 400 grams, makes you feel all the "power" of the telephoto. But still heavy.
- The location of the diaphragm ring itself is rather inconvenient.
- Close focusing from 1.2 meters, you can forget about macro. The focus ring rotates 270 degrees.
- The thread of the filter is 52 mm, which is a fairly popular diameter.
- The lens has 4 lenses in 3 groups
On the fully open F3.5 aperture, you get slightly soft excellent portraits, but if you close it, then the sharpness is enough with the head for almost all tasks. What does my copy without MS, 1980.
From personal experience using:
I shoot on Jupiter-37A, even when there is very little time to set the sharpness. The picture is excellent. I really like its contrast, although sometimes it seems dull, in the editor it can be made simply incredible. At aperture of 3.5, you can shoot portraits without fear for the soapiness of the glass. Impressions are pretty positive. Here's another interesting comparison of Jupiter-37A and Kaleinar-5N. Jupiter was slightly better.
But if you need to shoot at least slightly moving scenes, then I would prefer any autofocus telephoto, even if it is a zoom and even if it is very dark (does not have enough aperture) and even if from the manufacturer’s know-how, for example, similar to very cheap Quantaray 70-300mm 1: 4-5.6 D LDO MACRO.
Sample photos on crop (APS-C, Nikon DX)
All photos in the gallery below were shot on the APS-C Nikon DX, crop 1.5x. No processing. Reduced size to 2MP, imprinted data from EXIF.
Sample photos on crop (Canon APS-C)
All photos in the gallery below are shot on APS-C Canon 350D, crop 1.6x. No processing. Reduced size to 2MP, imprinted data from EXIF.
Full-frame sample photos (FF, Nikon FX)
All photos in the gallery below are shot on APS Nikon D700 FX Without processing, in JPEG L, VI mode, the size is reduced to 3MP, data from EXIF.
All photos in the gallery below, too, were shot on APS Nikon D700 FX Without processing, in JPEG L, VI mode, the size is reduced to 3 MP, data from EXIF.
UPDATED
Photographer shared examples of photos on Jupiter 37A 3,5 / 135 with readers of Radozhiva Lilia Nemykina:
UPDATE 2
Examples of photos on Jupiter 37A 3,5 / 135 (This one) and the camera Pentax K10D a photographer shared with readers of Radozhiva Yuri Leo.
UPDATE 3
More sample photos on Canon 600D and Jupiter 37A 3,5 / 135 for Radozhiva kindly provided Alexander Frolov.
There are several modifications of JUPITER-37, produced at different times:
- MS Jupiter-37AM 3,5 / 135, 1990-2002 (prefix 'MC' is placed before the lens name)
- Jupiter-37A 3,5 / 135 МС, 1983-1986 (the prefix 'MC' is placed after the lens name)
- MC Jupiter-37A 3,5 / 135, 1986-1989 (prefix 'MC' is placed before the lens name)
- Jupiter-37A MS-N-30 3.5 / 135, 1983-1984, very rare
- Jupiter-37A 3,5 / 135since 1978
- Юпитер-37AМ 3,5/135, 1990-2002
- MC Yu-37A 3,5 / 135, from about 1978
- U-37AM 3,5 / 135 MS
Catalog modern brand lenses 'Zenitar' и 'Helios' can look at this link.
Comments on this post do not require registration. Anyone can leave a comment. Lenses and promotions on them look at Moyo.ua.
Conclusion
Jupiter 37A 3,5 / 135 - good lens. The lens has a pleasant background blur and excellent sharpness starting at its widest aperture. Jupiter-37A is one of the best Soviet portrait lensesIt is easy to install on modern DSLR cameras with an interchangeable shank system.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram | Assistance of the Armed Forces
Relatively recently, I bought this lens on Avito without MS, but with a quality mark on the frame. I am very pleased with it, I have long dreamed of having a telephoto lens with an average telephoto lens. The lens gives a soft picture. I use it on a FUJIFILM system camera, install it through an adapter. Recently I found how to shoot macro, there is a Soviet achromatic nozzle AN-2 (+2 diopters), the shooting distance is 30-40 centimeters. I want to buy a +1 diopter attachment lens, then it will be possible to take pictures at a distance of 60 centimeters.
It apparently gives a soft picture only on Fujik). Or you have it misaligned. Attached lenses for macro in itself are a very so-so idea, and even with a soft lens ...
It just gives a picture that is similar in softness to Helios, even a little better. This is compared to modern digital camera lenses.
You naturally do not understand. Jupiter - the lens is of course ancient compared to modern “nano-monsters”, but this is one of the sharpest old lenses, even in an open and soft picture, it can only give if something is wrong with the lens or digital camera settings.
I completely agree! All Jupiters are televisions from Yu-11 to Yu-36, very contrasting and sharp. If they are soft, then a specific instance is a marriage, or it is damaged by an unskilled repair, a fall, etc., etc. For example, my Yu-21 version A, in terms of sharpness, even modern Japanese can easily do it, or at least not yield!
In fact, many Soviet open-aperture lenses are considered soft lenses. Apparently technology did not allow them to be very sharp in the open. Or maybe it's not possible at all.
And modern lenses give a soft picture in the open. Look at Canon 50 1,2. Zeiss macroplanar 50 2,0, sigma 50 1,4 (not art) and you will see a soft pattern.
I'm not talking about the Soviet in general, but specifically about the Yu-37. And it is not fast, and even more so, not super fast, so your examples are useless.
Greetings 👋. Tell me, will this lens on nikon focus on infinity?
Yes
Thank you 👍
If with a tail under Nikon, then yes.
Thank you, I was thinking about buying a dandelion shank for this one!
And another moment. How significant is the difference between ms37a and just 37a?
In fact, none.
Thank you!
On MS, contrast is slightly better and glare resistance is slightly better. But all the same, the MS does not live up to modern glasses in these parameters, even to whale zooms. MS makes sense to take if they ask for it no more than 25% more expensive than the non-MS version: it does not justify the higher price.
+ + +
Thank you! What is a realistic price for it?
I answer Vitaliy's question for the price (there is no answer button). I wouldn't give more than $20-25. I don’t know what the prices are now, I bought it myself in 2016. for $ 16 from the hands along with k-n \ an. Externally, the lens was very worn, but it works perfectly to this day.
Thank you 🤝
Of course, thanks to the author for such a wonderful site and the work done. This is probably the best site in this area.
I read the comments. )) Comrades, why are you buying Nikons for yourself? It's not me to unleash a holivar here. But when I was choosing a camera (my first), I took into account that my hobby and the limited budget of an amateur could attract old Soviet lenses. And not only Soviet ones, but everyone with the M42 seat. But here it seems that in Ukraine everyone is forced to buy Nikons. )) And rarely anyone manages to avoid it. Well, plus the menu of the younger Nikons is still what. The elders didn’t hold much, so I won’t say anything.
And the lens is amazing. Long wanted it. But while there were cropped cameras, I did not see the point in buying it. And I think I was right. My advice to you: look for FF. Let it be inexpensive, second-hand, amateur to the marrow, but FF. Believe me, your lenses, which are all made for full frame, will sparkle with new colors. And even shading that is cropped will seem very appropriate to you in many cases.
Arkady, thanks again for a wonderful site.
We are afraid of a dumka thought in Russia. And what kind of cameras can you buy in Russia?
There are a lot of sumnivivs that only the coolest medium-format cameras are, but it’s also important to read the same from the sack of the curb.
Andriyko, I'm from Donbass. ))
I hope your patriotic fart made this news
A person without a sense of humor is a Ukrainian. ))
like a new country? Say something in Donbas.
Photo on Jupiter 37A
I got a lens without a front cover, only a back one. What cover can be adapted to it, can someone come across?
Any 52 mm. Maybe from a whale.
Thanks for the advice. Will seek.
Unlikely. I have not seen such. But you can buy a 52mm lens hood and have a cap on it. It seems there will be 58mm. The lens will become a little longer, but protected.
I read all this 4 years ago, I went to look for 3500. I didn’t like it. After such portraits in the article, you will involuntarily want to buy it and repeat it, the portrait can be in manual focus, this is a leisurely and calm shooting. I have two options - for the soul in the Jupiter 37a collection for 2000-2500 maximum, for a cooler picture of modern samyang 85-1.4 manual for 9 thousand for Nikon, this is the most affordable now from aperture with 1.4 for sure. Checked by weeks of searching. I just sold Helios 58/2 as new, I couldn’t beat its conversion to Nikon, everyone was afraid that it would hit infinity with a mirror, it was almost never used. Jupiter seems to be easily remade and not dangerous for the camera. We need 2 chances to give him all the same, let him be
Why remake it? kp\a-n buy - and truncated.
Hello. Help to understand please. I bought Jupiter 37a, put Canon 7D on my carcass, through an adapter with a chip. The aperture does not change in any modes, and stands at 1.4. What can be wrong?
The point may be that the aperture changes on the lens with a ring, because this is a film lens.
Why then is this chip needed if it is of no use? (As I understand it, it is non-programmable, judging by the dots on the chip “out of order”)
why buy non-programmable?
but in general, to shoot with manual optics on canon, you need to install ML and enjoy the process))
What it was, it was like that, I didn’t have anything to choose from) I just can’t understand why it was needed there then, if it was possible without it.
What it was, it was, I didn’t have anything to choose from :) I just can’t understand why it was needed then, if it was possible without it.
nevertheless need programmable. otherwise it will not be possible to make a focus confirmation correction. and it is better to make the aperture value in the chip 1.1, in this case the focus will be confirmed more accurately.
If the chip is not programmable, then there is no point in it. although on the seven you can make a correction in the camera itself.
And what side aperture has an effect on focusing accuracy? For the work of cross-shaped sensors of increased accuracy in the CZK, you need a lens no darker than 2,8, that's all. Therefore, of course, it is better not to add 3,5 to the chip. To avoid. Is it a little...
Where do such legends come from? ))
I took a picture, it seems to be normal. True, you have to focus purely “by eye”, nothing lights up and no sound signals.
The chip on the boot is needed to confirm focus, without it you will have to aim through liveview with magnification.
What will be written in exif and on the screen is of no practical importance.
It has. In aperture priority mode, the exposure will depend on the aperture value hammered into the chip.
Here you have to take pictures with live view, you can also take pictures through the viewfinder, but it turns out more accurately.
if you shoot in LV, then you should install magic lantern, how to set it up I wrote more than once on this site and Dima Evtifeev and in many other places.
I'll try to install, thanks
The same Dima Evtifeev (is he definitely Dima for you?), When shooting on zeiss in live view, he uses a special device attached to the screen. What in my opinion is the most correct solution than some alternative firmware for alternatively gifted. Also Dima )) uses special Tenpa eyecups. Which also has a very positive effect when focusing. It's also a good idea to change the focusing screen if the camera allows it.
On the camera, select the “A” mode, turn on the auto with the necessary parameters in the settings, set the aperture size with the ring on the lens and then just focus and press the shutter button. The camera will select the shutter speed
Is the chip not programmable? If you shoot in M mode, then it's okay. If there is an incorrect exposure, then you will correct it. And I'm shooting at M, setting the ISO in auto and setting the shutter speed. With your EGF, it will not be superfluous not to lower the shutter speed shorter than 1 \ 250.
The chip is not programmable, as I understand it (or programmable one-time). I bought it from my hands. The points on the chips are random + the aperture does not change at all in any modes.
Explain what dots are. And what is “the aperture does not change”. Have you tried putting the chip into programming mode?
I'll explain a little. When I used the Canon 600d, the aperture value stuffed into the chip affected the exposure in aperture priority mode. Perhaps more modern cameras simply measure according to the actual aperture and do not care what is in the chip. Therefore, I did not understand what “the aperture does not change in any modes” is. Where should it change?
In order to enter the chip into editing mode, you need to press the shutter button at aperture 64. Well, it does not change (in none of the modes, not in “M”, not in “Av”, in any other) . According to the chip: there are barely distinguishable dots on the metal plates of the chip - in the programmable ones they are located in one line, in the non-programmable ones they are discordant.
They are there (chips) for almost a dozen generations, as I understand it. Some are programmed, some are not. I'll take a picture of the adapter and attach a picture.
these are not points, but vias on the printed circuit board (vias), if it is impossible to set an aperture value other than 1.4, then the chip is of the first generation, without the possibility of programming.
Make sure your camera is set to 1/3 EV. It is important! - Is this condition fulfilled?
Visually, it does not differ from my programmed one.
“1) Minimum aperture value
It is better not to touch the parameter, since different
aperture value. Functionality is not affected. ”
So fuck the light. If the exposure will work out normally, then it's good. No, change it to what you want.
Comrade, do you have a picxo adapter for an hour?
I ordered an inexpensive similar one from ketai. It gives an error when shooting and does not enter the programming mode.
But the adapter itself is well made.
No, it doesn’t give errors when shooting like. But not programmed. And yes, it’s well made, it doesn’t play, it doesn’t hang out. Bought by hand
And further. I do not understand what is programmed one-time. It's pointless. Because on three cameras I have the same chip had to be re-adjusted for the accuracy of getting into focus.
commenter above. I am one of the ML developers and I know how the camera works very well. in addition, I have a kenon \ nikon authorization and access to in-house documentation and software.
about the aperture value and the accuracy of focus confirmation. everything is not so simple here, and information about this is not in the public domain, so few people know how everything works.
in short.
1. Diagonal AF sensors are turned on when there is a bit called F28 in the data block transmitted by the lens. if it is “1”, then the MCU will use the diagonal sensors when focusing. if it is equal to “0”, then they will never be included. Unfortunately, all chips, of any manufacturer, transmit this bit equal to “0”, and therefore, no matter what aperture is written in the chip, diagonal sensors are disabled when shooting with such a chip.
2. when focusing or when confirming the focus, the MCU calculates the fine focus area (this is not a single point), which depends on the depth of field, which is calculated by the MCU based on the aperture value transmitted by the lens or written to the chip. the more “open” the aperture, the narrower the focus confirmation area. you can check it yourself.
To the commentator who creates an alternative for alternatives.
Explain these lines from your posts, please.
“Yes, and the aperture value in the chip is better to enter 1.1, in this case, the focus will be more accurately confirmed.”
“Unfortunately, all chips, of any manufacturer, transmit this bit equal to “0” and therefore, no matter what aperture is written in the chip, diagonal sensors are disabled when shooting with such a chip.”
Cognitive dissonance does not arise when reading your own lines?
It was not in vain that I called your firmware for the alternatively gifted. Because it’s probably better than a screen, an eyecup and a nozzle on an LCD screen.
there is no dissonance here. I wrote very clearly.
the diagonal sensors themselves will be disabled when working with the chip. but the depth of field (on the basis of which the focus area will be determined) will be calculated from the value of the aperture recorded in the chip. yes, only regular cross sensors (F5.6) will work, but this does not change the logic of the MCU.
Perhaps it is. And if there is somewhere to read about it, then it will be great.
But how does this apply to dandelion? Where for each camera you need to adjust the focus accuracy. I set up my chip for three cameras. And the depth of field has never been clearly centered. There is an offset either slightly in front of the object, or slightly behind. I prefer a little back. It seems to be a very rough setting. And no prescribed tsifiri will help this.
And how will the camera calculate the depth of field when focusing from a dandelion if the camera does not receive information about the focusing distance? )) We have a manual, my friend. Old manual. And the depth of field is simply not possible to calculate.
Are you sure you understand something about what you are talking about here?
But it was interesting.
I'm not saying that all lenses are adjusted to focus at aperture 5,6.
hmm ...
you see, monsters, being an electronic equipment development engineer, I had to, among other things, remake cameras and rewrite their software for special tasks, therefore, as I noted above, I know their internal structure very well.
having service and in-house documentation, which are inaccessible to anyone without authorization, and service software, I sometimes write and explain some technical points.
You can’t read about this anywhere, only, in the past, Chuck Westfall told something, but even then, he was limited by the rules of the company. I, especially, under the terms of the NDA, are not allowed to voice something.
Well, now a bit of answers, what can be voiced
when focusing, the depth of field zone is calculated not from the focus distance, but from the value of the maximum open aperture recorded in the firmware of the lens microcontroller or in the dandelion chip. this refers to the depth of field at a fully open aperture and the minimum focusing distance, that is, the narrowest depth of field achievable in principle.
lens adjustment is a voluminous issue, and here I simply physically cannot tell everything, again within the limits of non-violation of the NDA.
in a nutshell, the AF adjustment of lenses is always done on an open aperture and on a reference camera. moreover, the adjustment is made separately for two different groups of AF sensors in the camera - for cross-section (separately for vertical and horizontal) and for diagonal ones (also separately for ascending diagonal and for descending diagonal).
When shooting, lenses transmit two focus corrections to the camera - for cross sensors and for diagonal sensors. if the lens has aperture less than 2.8, then there is only one correction, for cross sensors.
all this applies to fixed optics.
in the case of varifocal lenses, such corrections are transmitted for several DF values.
So it was necessary to say that it is involved in the calculations of the MDF.
The rest of the water has long been known to me.
One question. If the adjustment is made on a reference camera, then why are both the lens and the carcass sent to the service? Something tells me that the cameras are not absolutely identical in terms of mechanics and it is better to make adjustments to the native camera than just to the lens according to some kind of standard.
the points.
according to the manufacturer's official technology, the camera and lenses are adjusted separately. camera - by reference lens, lens - by reference camera.
after which focus accuracy is guaranteed for any combination of camera and lens.
I set up all my own in this way and now I can put an arbitrary (from the ones I have) lens on any (my own or someone else's configured) camera.
if someone somewhere does otherwise, then either they don’t know how to do it right, or they don’t have the whole set of software and equipment.
I have all this and therefore I write as it is correct.
What is the reference lens? How many of them should be in the service? There are a lot of lenses in the world. Is there a whole pantry of standards in the service?
If you believe Evtifeev, who obtained information from Zeiss, then all lenses are adjusted at aperture 5,6. Even bright ones. And on what are the reference ones adjusted? And if I need not 5,6, but 1,2?
Adjusting the lens to the carcass is simply reasonable and least expensive. And most likely they do this in most cases, given the feedback from the people on the forums.
add answers point by point
“Where for each camera you need to adjust the focus accuracy. I set up my chip for three cameras.”
this means that the AF of the cameras was set incorrectly. all my cameras, the AF of which I personally adjusted on the stand, require the same focus adjustment in a dandelion
“And the DOF has never been clearly centered. There is an offset either slightly in front of the object, or slightly behind. I prefer a little back. Apparently the setting is very rough there.”
there are two points.
1. Do not forget about the effect of spherical aberrations on the operation of the focusing system. many manual lenses have very large CA wide open, and therefore the picture of the subject on the CCD rulers of the AF unit looks very fuzzy, it is simply impossible to determine exactly where the focus is.
2. The focus adjustment step in dandelions is very coarse, this is due to the need to have a full range of correction using only 32 correction values. why the developers did this is unknown, no one bothered to do it right.
Well, my Canon 85 and Sigma 50 lenses will disagree with you about incorrectly configured autofocus. They shoot at ten on both 7d and 6d. And the tampon 17-50 2.8 also worked well for 7 days.
The correction in dandelion was insignificant, but was
I myself wrote about the roughness of the adjustment.
Another question, how does the camera calculate the MDF from the manual? )))
I have something like a focal length of several meters crammed into the chip. And nothing, the sensor works well.
Summing up what has been said.
Read what a man well done and clever. Praise, just in case, if not praised in childhood.
There is interesting information.
Perhaps the camera really aims more accurately for a larger aperture, taking into account the MDF. Perhaps. But all this data is apparently packed into normal lenses. This has nothing to do with the Chinese chip and Lushnikov's. These chips do not transmit anything except aperture ratio. And there is no data and no algorithm work. Yes, and aperture is apparently not so necessary for modern cameras, as it was before.
This is my opinion.
Are there millions using alternative firmware? Share your impressions.
and again you misunderstood me.
I will say differently, without the words flu and mdf, because I wrote them only for clarity and brevity.
The MCU calculates the size of the focus area based on the value of the maximum open aperture read by the camera either from the lens or from the chip. at the same time, the value of the RF does not affect this calculation in any way.
You can’t read about it anywhere, because information about the work of AF is closed, access is only under NDA.
Apparently it's not open to everyone. You've been exposed to a big secret.
You wrote that AF will be more accurate considering the aperture ratio and, accordingly, the accuracy should be based on the flu. Otherwise, your accuracy is a spherical horse in a vacuum. Because there is no point from which you need to start counting and start aiming just like that or more precisely. Fisheye 15 2,8 will have a flu on MDF of 300 millimeters. And 50 1,2 is only 3 mm. So why are we dancing? And how to determine where you need to be more precise, and where will we get into 300 mm anyway? )))
And using the example of my chip, I have already shown that the information stuffed there does not affect the work of the focus in any way. Accordingly, your advice to hammer aperture ratio 1,1 into the chip is a flimsy letter for the camera. At least from the chip. He won't take anything into account.
ML is used by thousands of photographers/videographers around the world.
on all my cameras (except for units, of course) ML is installed.
I also installed it to all my friends and showed how to set it up and use it.
As a rule, ML is criticized by those who could not or did not want to figure it out.
and shooting with manual optics with ML support becomes as convenient as with the UPC.
I first learned about the alternative in 2011 or 2012. When I bought 600d. I looked and realized that the firmware will not give anything to this camera. This is a budget DSLR and that says it all. Now I have 6d. I erased two 00s on 600D and got a new camera. A month ago, I climbed to look at what this firmware is there and realized that, again, it would not give me anything.
But maybe I didn't study the question thoroughly enough. In a nutshell, what can this firmware give?
PS. Linux is also used by thousands of people, and sometimes millions. And they are still in the total mass no more than 1% for the rest of the OS,)) I have never heard that the pros recommended this firmware. Honestly.
1. ML is used by videographers to shoot in RAW.
2. in relation to the issue under discussion, ML greatly facilitates focusing on manual lenses. in addition, flashing allows you to eliminate a number of errors by camera software developers, which appear when shooting with manual optics. I have repeatedly described the whole process in detail, you can also search on this site.
3. A complete list of ML features will take more than one page of text. If someone does not need these features, this does not mean that they are not needed at all.
4. canon 6d is a completely amateur camera with many limitations and design errors. previously repaired them in quantity, now I don’t take them anymore, I’m tired.
In general, I did not hear anything. ))
I can’t even imagine how the firmware can make it easier to focus on the manuals. Again - no one advises her to manual optics. And on most cameras, she no longer becomes.
I don't make videos. Therefore, he said that he did not find anything in it for himself.
Like I said, it's useless to me.
mon cher ami, do not be lazy and find my notes on this site, there are a lot of them. I still don’t think it’s right to write again, Arkady would be against repetition.
I said that I read what this firmware gives. And he said that he did not find anything for himself in it. Like most people who are fond of photography.
And if you are really serious about video shooting, then buy a camcorder. And half measures are for the bombers. Where there is no point in bothering with equal. None of the customers there appreciates, neither the design of the lens, nor, oh, what colors from Hollywood films. ))
This is my opinion.
I will add. Now I have a focal length of 50 mm on the 1.7 65535 chip. With an aperture of 1.8, the flu value is infinity. Hyperfocal formed. And this does not prevent the chip from working properly and focusing.
So it goes. )))
The flight of engineering thought is high, and here on earth we live on earthly chicks. I know it. I am a mechanical engineering technologist.
explained this point above.
I made mistakes with my smartphone. Pardon me. The fingers are thick.
mon cher ami, why argue about what you do not understand?
I have all the service documentation and software in front of my eyes.
because everything I write here is based on official canon data.
if you can find friends in the ASC, come in and see for yourself.
not the fact that someone will violate the NDA, but who knows.
and now in order.
The canon reference lens is a precision-machined steel tube with a bayonet at the end. inside are lenses that form a 50 1.8 lens without aperture and focuser. the distance of the lenses from the matrix is such that the focus is at a distance of 2.5 meters exactly. the camera is mounted on an optical bench at a precise distance of 2.5 meters from the test target.
then, using the service software, the AF of the camera is adjusted for all points.
this procedure is the same for all chambers, including units.
the cost of a reference lens is several thousand dollars.
if not, then it is allowed to use a specially converted lens 50 1.8, the conversion technique is also described in the official service documentation.
but in this case, a reference camera is needed to set up such a homemade reference lens.
the reference camera is set at the factory, previously it was 5dmkii, then 5dmkiii.
it is on such a camera that the AF of all lenses that enter the ASC is adjusted.
“The reference camera is set at the factory, previously it was 5dmkii, then 5dmkiii.
it is on such a camera that the AF of all lenses that enter the ASC is adjusted.”
In the Online Trade service (they service Sigma lenses), as a reference camera, either 7D or 70D (I talked with their serviceman last spring, when I took the Sigma fifty dollars and 24-70 there and I remember being surprised that they were not adjusting on FF Canon).
*
More from a curious walk around the services: in Copy Moscow (Canon officials) they refuse to take out-of-production Canon lenses for adjustment. I went there with a 28-70/2.8L after replacing cloudy lenses with another stylist (who couldn't align it). So they told me that this is a film lens and it is not adjusted)
I came to Tsifra near the Perovo metro station, they didn’t want to take it and redo it after another master, but they did take 28-70 / 2.8L, sorted out the lens block, skewed it and adjusted it.
I will try to answer in order.
1. in principle, no one bothers to use any camera as a standard, but where is the guarantee that it has absolutely finely tuned AF?
2. The lenses of the film era are not programmatically adjusted for AF, only with jumpers inside, and the set of AF offsets is extremely limited.
3. A real ASC does not even have the right to pick up something that has been withdrawn from support. the reason is simple - if this something taken by them fails (provided that it was handed over to the ASC as serviceable), then the ASC is obliged to repair or replace it. it's the law! but, since it has already been removed from both production and support, there are no spare parts and repairs, if it is suddenly needed, is impossible. hence the refusal to accept something old.
and one more moment, a little boring))
speaking strictly terminologically correct, then alignment is a mechanical process (aligning the position of the lenses along the optical axis and all that), while AF adjustment is either a software or electronic process (soldering jumpers)
I know it's bullshit, but still.
Do not spoil the statistics of a theoretical engineer with your imperial encroachments))
Empirical, of course. )
May Liber owl, but then half of my posts do not reach. ))
Maybe I'm not an adjuster from the SC, but you can't refuse me logic. And in practice too. And if I know something and checked it in practice, then all your titles do not scare me.
We give a standing ovation. Bravo!
I thought I'd have to insist on it.
You allowed yourself a lot if you sat reading all this. ))
I have a question for the developer.
The last ML dates back to July 2018. What have you been developing there for the last 4 years that you don’t upload fresh versions? ))
Therefore, I never liked SPO. Even on Linux, I realized this - open source software is the lot of enthusiasts without a bright future. ))
how do you photograph him 80% of the marriage in focus, well, fuck
What they twisted with their hands, they got it - after all, there is no motor in the glass. So, the marriage in focus is not with the lens, but with the photographer.
Greetings!
I recently purchased this lens of the non-MS version. I'm going to order a shank for Nikon F on Ali. The lens was caught without a hood and front cover. Tell me, who knows, the lens hood and cover from which models can fit? It is desirable that you can find their Chinese version on Ali))
And further. If I understand correctly, the back cover from any lens under Nikon F should fit the shank?
The issue with the front cover is resolved - the cover from the old kitogvo 18-55 came up.
Questions about the hood and back cover remain open.
I took this:
https://alii.pub/6oz4yh
As for the back cover, it’s true, any one for Nikon F will do.
Are tails sold on Ali? I've only seen adapters.
Sold. Only not the original KP-A / N, but the T2-Nikon F. In principle, they are the same, only the inner diameter of the alish ones is slightly larger.
I have one. The inner diameter is actually larger. Fortunately, in a jar left over from sysadmin times, there were several screws of a suitable length, otherwise I would have bothered to look for them.
I also have a habit of collecting small screws, bolts, etc. in a jar. ))
Sometimes it really helps. I think there is something suitable.
Thanks for the information.
Tell me, does the lens hood that you ordered have a matte finish or corrugation inside? And then there were Chinese blends, glossy from the inside ...
I would be grateful for your advice! It is possible to take Jupiter 37A 135mm f3.5 and in the kit a person has an adapter for Nikon F mount without a lens. He says that if you want to shoot further than 4 meters, then you need to look for an adapter with a lens. But I want to understand if I want to shoot half-length portraits, do I need this lens or can I get by with what I have?
Have you respectfully read what is written in the glance?
From 4 meters, waist belts cannot be removed. Look for a tail kp / an instead of a lens adapter.
Thanks, I'll look for it then. Can I install it myself? I just read about the fact that these adapters (with Alik anyway) have a slightly larger inner diameter and need longer screws.
Easy to install with the right screwdriver. You're right about the screws.
Ramona, I bought such a shank (remake) for Avito, the screws fit.
Without a lens, it will focus at 5-6 meters. For portraits, it may be enough.