According provided by Nikon D5300 camera (body) many thanks to Andrei Chernikh.
The camera was introduced on 07.11.2012/XNUMX/XNUMX Nikon D5200 and a year later, on 17.10.2013/5300/XNUMX, its update was released - Nikon DXNUMX. The cameras turned out to be very similar, but still, if you dig a little in their parameters, you can find many significant differences.
Nikon D5200 and D5300 use different matrices from different manufacturers: on board the Nikon D5300 has a Sony IMX193 sensor (proof link). Nikon D5200 uses the same Toshiba TOS-5105 HEZ1 sensor (proof link 1, proof link 2) A complete list of sensors used on all Nikon central control centers can be viewed here. In addition, the Nikon D5300 missing OLPF filter (proof link), which makes it easier to achieve a sharp, detailed image (and the appearance of moiré due to the absence of such a filter no longer worries anyone). I rummaged through all the instructions for Nikon D5300 and did not find any mention of the lack of a low-pass filter there (proof link).
Now I am seeing a tendency to remove the OLPF filter in modern cameras with a huge amount megapixels. Nikon D800E no longer has such a filter, D810, D7100 и Nikon D3300.
Likely Nikon D3300 uses the exact same sensor as the Nikon D5300. This is indirectly indicated by the main characteristics of their matrices (proof link 1, proof link 2, proof link 3) And it’s very strange that on the official page с Nikon D3300 nothing is said about the fact that the camera also lacks an OLPF filter. This is most likely done to make users feel a more serious difference between the D5300 and D3300. But born in the USSR you won’t be so easy!
Nikon D5300, D5200, D3300, D7100, D7200 create pictures of the same maximum size of 6000 x 4000 pixels, which equals exactly 24 MP. In the characteristics they often write that the cameras have 24.1 (24.71) or 24.2 (24.78) MP, the difference of 100-200 thousand pixels is associated with the special structure of the pixels and sub-pixels of the sensor (details here).
Due to the new matrix, Nikon D5300 can use the range ISO 100 to 12.800 units and expand it to the value of Hi1 (equivalent to 25.600). In the same time Nikon D5200 uses ISO from 100 to 6400 units and expand it to a Hi2 value (equivalent to 25.600). Nikon D5300 has become first camera Nikon DX, which can use real ISO 12.800 (not advanced 'hi' modes). For this indicator, the D5300 and D3300 overtake the 'older' model Nikon D7100. There are also serious suspicions that Nikon D7100 uses the same sensor as Nikon D5300, but due to the older processor it cannot use ISO 12.800. It's funny, but all three cameras - D5100, D5200The D5300 uses a maximum ISO threshold of 25.600 and still cannot jump over it.
Online many with CAPS LOCK pressed say that the noise level in the pictures taken with the Nikon D5300 is several times less than the noise level of cameras of previous generations. In any case, I want to note that with the noise reduction functions turned on, when shooting in JPEG, a really good result is obtained, and the Nikon D5300 is one of the quietest cropped cameras of all time (until some D5400 is released). At the same time, I can bet that at ISO up to 3200 units, no one difference with D5200 won't notice :). At ISO, starting at about 9000, the image is filled with a red veil. This is a rather specific noise, which often gives a picture a warm tint, but at the same time 'eats up' the color, and the included 'noise reduction' removes details. I observed the exact same nature of the noise in the model Nikon D3300. At the same time, on my ancient Nikon D700 the color at ISO 25.600 just 'fades out', but does not have an additional color cast.
Nikon D5300 has a built-in wi-fi module. If you connect your tablet or smartphone using Nikon WirelessMobileUtility, you can view the captured photos and videos, and copy them to your mobile device. And, of course, you can control the camera remotely - this is a useful function, you can think of many examples of its use.
I installed Nikon WirelessMobileUtility (WMU) on my Android phone using PlayMarket app service without any problems. To connect a mobile device to the camera, it is enough to turn on wi-fi on the camera, and on the mobile device, in the wi-fi connections menu, select the Nikon D5300 access point. The interface of the program is very simple, only one problem - there is no Russian language. When displaying an image in Live View mode, the picture slows down a little, and it's also a pity that the remote control only supports focus point selection and shutter release - the camera controls all other parameters by itself (and this does not depend on the selected mode on the camera control dial). I still could not get the camera to shoot video using WMU (even with the 'Remote control' -> 'Remote shutter release' -> 'Movie' option selected). Also, the application does not allow you to view an already shot video on a mobile device, you can download it and only then view it. When downloading a video, WMU does not understand that it is a video and offers 'Download current picture'. The fact that the thumbnail contains a video can only be guessed by the 'mov' icon. Perhaps WMU for iOS is better at thinking.
One acquaintance told how he used the remote control function of the camera using Wi-Fi. He was on vacation somewhere on the ocean, crowds of crabs crawled out onto the shore, but people constantly shied away and hid back in the water. He mounted the camera on a tripod, waited for the crabs to get out of the water and remotely shot many interesting shots of marine animals :)
When viewing photos on the camera, you can note those photos that will be automatically transferred to the smartphone the next time you connect via wi-fi.
As one sage said: World, Labor, Wifi.
Externally, the D5300 has a slightly different design. On the D5300, the shooting mode button (the button sets continuous shooting, remote control or interval shooting) is now located near the lens mount button, and in that place is now the GPS receiver. All other controls are exactly the same as on the D5200.
The new camera uses an Expeed 4 image processor, while the D5200 uses Nikon Expeed 3. It's funny that Expeed 3 also works on Nikon D4, and Expeed 4 on D4s. It was possible with a clear conscience not to create the Nikon D5300, but to call the new camera D5200s :).
But here's the bad luck - the D5300, like the D5200, can shoot at a maximum speed of 5 fps, but when using the RAW (RAW + JPEG) format with 14-bit color depth, the Nikon D5300 drops to 4 fps. The difference between 4 and 5 frames is immediately noticeable during real shooting. Why was it necessary to install a new generation processor that can not cope with such a volume of data? Nikon D5200 shot without problems with the same 14-bit color depth in RAW format at 5 fps. At the same time, in the Nikon D5200 RAW files were always recorded with 14-bit color depth, and in order to realize 5 fps in the Nikon D5300, it was necessary to add the ability to set 12-bit or 14-bit color depth in the menu. Turns out that the new camera is slower than the old. Of course, there is no difference when shooting in JPEG, but still, I have already written more than once that Nikon cannot solve the problem of shooting in RAW format with 14-bit color depth. Remember the legendary Nikon D300 и D300sthat went down to level Nikon D40, and began to shoot at a speed of 2.5 frames per second, and also Nikon D7100, which even in 1.3x mode resets the shooting speed when using 14-bit color depth.
I want to criticize the camera’s features in Live View a little more. I tried to make a video for my note 'interesting property of the aperture on the Nikon CZK' and in Live View mode, when I enlarged the selected image area for fine-tuning the focus, I came across that the camera is very (very, very, very!) very slow with the image output. For shooting, I used Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-200mm 1: 3.5-5.6GII ED SWM VR IF Aspherical and ISO about 4000-5000. In any case, the camera processor does not cope with the tasks. I saw the exact same problem on the Nikon D3300.
If you disable features such as' Aut. distortion control ',' Active D-Lighting ',' Under. Noise for long. Exposure. ',' Under. Noise for high. ISO 'then in frame buffer fits:
- 7 frames in RAW 12bit format
- 5 frames in RAW 14bit format
- 12 frames in JPEG format
- 6 frames in RAW 12bit + JPEG L Fine format
- 5 frames in RAW 14bit + JPEG L Fine format
If you enable all these functions, then it is placed in the buffer:
- 4-5 frames in RAW 12bit format
- 2-3 frames in RAW 14bit format
- 7-8 frames in JPEG format
- 4-5 frames in RAW 12bit + JPEG L Fine format
- 2-3 frames in RAW 14bit + JPEG L Fine format
The number of frames in the buffer is practically no different from the Nikon D5200.
The viewfinder has slightly increased, the Nikon D5300 has a magnification of 0.82x, the D5200 - 0.79x. If I did not know about this difference, I would never visually notice it.
In addition, video has improved: Nikon D5200 can shoot at maximum quality of 1920 x 1080 60i / 50i, D5300 can shoot at 1920 x 1080 60p / 50p (progressive). In modes 1280 X 720 and 640 X 424, you can select the same quality for both cameras. Personally, I don't care about video at all, and it's unlikely that an ordinary amateur camera user will notice improvements from 60i to 60p (I'm already silent about the theoretical understanding of the difference). But for advanced fans to shoot a high-quality video, and even then process it, 60p will be just right :). I want to note that Nikon D5300 does not make a slight crop at the beginning of video recording, as was the case with Nikon D5200.
Nikon D5300 uses new 3.2 inch display 1.036.800 pixels (720 pixels wide x 480 pixels high x 3 RGB sub-pixels), while the Nikon D5200 uses a 3-inch at 921.600 (640 x 480 x 3). I immediately felt the difference in the size of the display, although the numbers 3 and 3.2 inches differ slightly. As a result, when viewing thumbnail images, the D5300 displays 80 thumbnails and 72 thumbnails on the D5200 display. The new display has proportions 3: 2 (like the pictures from the camera) and when viewing black stripes do not form at the edges, as was the case with the Nikon D5200 (and many other cameras).
All the time while I had a camera, it was bad weather outside, and I never got to the studio, so, alas, there were not many test frames. Here link to the archive with the originals - 399 MB, 15 photos in .NEF format (RAW) When shooting, the lens was used Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-200mm 1: 3.5-5.6GII ED SWM VR IF Aspherical с protective light filter Hoya HMC UV (c) 72mm.
UPDATE 1
Examples of photos on HELIOS-44M 2/58 and camera Nikon D5300 with readers of Radozhiva shared by photographer Vladlena Lapshina:
Nikon D5300 is even a little lighter than its predecessor. The D5300 weighs 530 grams versus 550 on the Nikon D5200. You won’t feel the difference in any way. Usually Nikon D5300 sell with a lens Nikon DX VR AF-S Nikkor 18-140mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED SWM IF Aspherical, and D5200 with Nikon 18-55mm 1: 3.5-5.6G VR AF-S DX Nikkor, although the camera equipment can be anything. The camera also uses the new EN-EL14a battery, which helps to get more frames on a single charge than the EN-EL14 used in the Nikon D5200.
Of course, in addition to the wi-fi module, a GPS receiver was installed in the camera. Photos for which the shooting location was obtained have a satellite icon.
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Nikon D5300 is the best amateur camera from Nikon right now (not to be confused with advanced amateur cameras like Nikon D7100) at the time of this writing. The camera has great potential! You just need to take and shoot. On the other hand, I am an adherent of the idea that it is better to get an older camera, for example, Nikon D5100but with a better lens, such as Nikon DX VR AF-S Nikkor 18-140mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED SWM IF Aspherical. Who believes that wi-fi, GPS, the absence of a low-pass filter on the heap with ISO 12.800 and 39-point focus system help in achieving good shots, he will definitely look at the Nikon D5300 :).
When choosing a Nikon SLR camera and a lens for it, I advise you to look in the 'Which Nikon camera to choose?'.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval.
Good evening. Can you please tell me how to configure the iso parameters in manual mode? Before that, there was a D3100 and everything was set up there without problems. I do the same as in the instructions, click on the “i”, then select the desired value (let it be 100). As a result, I have “100” at the bottom of the display, and “800” at the top in a circle. And whatever value I would not set, it still costs 800. As a result, noisy photos are obtained (I tried to shoot in the studio). What am I doing wrong?
Did not download and / or open the camera manual. And there everything is painted in detail.
You know, if I found in the instructions, I would not write here. There would be no point in forums and similar articles in general if newcomers would understand everything right away.
Why is everything described in detail for other Nikon cameras (D90, D700, and even Pro - D3s, D4).
You just opened the manual for the camera?
Nikonov peerless manual goes to almost every camera. And there, in plain human language, everything is chewed to the smallest detail. Yes, it makes him sleepy. But it is detailed and having studied it completely do not need forums and stuff.
Disable AutoISO
Thank you!
Good afternoon!
Does it make sense to change the Nikon D80 and D100 (there are both for the photo) to this D5300 model only for the more convenient use of the device as a whole and HD video? In terms of photo quality, as I understand it, there will not be much difference and it can be even worse with the same lenses (Soviet optics park, nikkor 35mm).
Yes, it makes sense. The difference will be significant.
good afternoon. I just can’t decide which camera I really want to buy a D5600 but there is no review on the site, so I was thinking between the D5600 and Canon 650D, advise what to do?
Good evening. I advise you to look at reviews on other reviews, like this: https://prophotos.ru/reviews/19365-nikon-d5600-test So 5600 will be more modern - 2016. against 2012.
Better nikon, kenon will be worse
Where can I see and find out what lenses of other companies are suitable for this unit? Thanks in advance for the answer)
Here, in the section LENSES (look at the upper right corner of the main page of Radozhiva).
Any autofocus Nikon Nikkor and autofocus lenses of Sigma / Tamron / Tokin firms under Nikon mount. Most interesting Arkady has already described.
Very nice description. Thanks so much for your work.
Good afternoon.
I have been plowing d10 for 3000 years already and I want to change my old friend for something fresher.
Tell me, what is better to take d5600 or d7200? In order for the model to quickly become morally obsolete and in a couple of years would not want to change it to something newer.
Hello. It is logical to advise that to prefer the d7200, as it is more functional - this is a “screwdriver”, and autofocus adjustment, etc. If you do not mind the larger weight-size.
Thanks for the recommendation :)
Please tell me, the color depth is 42 bits, and in the D3300 it is 36 bits - will the difference be noticeable in the photo?
If you shoot in JPG - no. If in RAW / NEF - then also not.
But this gives a little wider possibilities when processing photos in raw, especially with large errors in the exposure.
Thank you!
In practice, no. Both cameras give out color to put it mildly not very and which requires strong post-processing.
It is more important that the camera produces accurate color.
Thanks! And which camera in this segment produces the exact color?
None. Neither in this segment, nor in the other. In general, it was a reference to either Canon or Nikon CCD. You can not pay attention, you do not need it yet
Of course there is in this segment and in any other.
That what the choice of cameras in 2019 is huge.
Your statement about kmos and ssd is also incorrect. The cameras with the most accurate color and the best color gamut are exactly the kmos of the matrix))
Tales about ssd are true only for Nikonists. Nikon, after good cameras on Sony ssd matrices, switched to kmos matrices very late and yes, the color of all such cameras varies from satisfactory to terrible. Nikon was able to establish a good color only in the d850. Therefore, such a huge color difference between d40 and, for example, a whistle transformer of the type d3100 or d7500 there.
Other manufacturers have no such problem.
You defend maniacally. And I just think it's holivar. If we like it - we take whatever we like and for the money, so that it fits, EVERYTHING.
I have to agree, I also think that defending the UPC is pretty one-sided and pretty aggressive. And this is usually the first sign that the topic of the question is not fully explored :)
Arkady, recommendation kenon 5d - is it a one-sided defense of the bzk? ))))
So far, a friend cannot clearly list why to buy a Nikon d3xxx or d5xxx if there is a much better choice for the same money.
All his argument comes down to the argument, buy at least something and the rest is a holivar)))
Your 5d recommendation doesn’t change
She cannot change the list of benefits of mirrorless.
Alas, the mirror leaves the masses of the segment. How did carburetors, cylinders in wheels, etc. go?
Both kenon and nikon pass to the BZK.
Once again I note, no one objected to the obvious advantages of the BZK, the list above. And no one has clearly said what is the point of buying a crop of d3xxx and d5xxx today with the same money.
## You can not pay attention, while you do not need it ##
Strange logic. In your opinion, a person should buy junk with a disgusting color, suffer from post-processing and come to the conclusion that the camera needs to be changed?
Get color spots, bad halftones, carrots and brilliant green?
Moreover, the Nikon d3xxxx and d5xxxx series crop cameras do not have fine-tuning AF and guarantee the front / back focus problem on high-aperture lenses.
I thought that there should have been less talk about special, spoken CCDs, after my experiment, described here on Radozhiv, in which I clearly showed how in two or three clicks (!) The jeep (!) From the terrible D90 is completely brought in colors to the divine D40.
Where is this wonderful workshop, direct.
Special spoken SSDs exist mainly in the excited Nikon fanboy minds.
It has long been known that it is important how the matrix is made and the color profile for it and not what it is made of.
The best color of the Nikons is the d850, it is oddly strange kmos and not ssd)
I join the question, I want to see examples
CCD has less dynamic range, and therefore color is better, although it is less natural than modern CMOS, but people like this color
Look in the comments for the Yongnuo 100mm review
Well, you really intimidated the girl. Can you show her examples of “color spots” and so on? I have never even noticed the famous carrots, except sometimes magenta. And what is a digital camera without sin? 5d? Then everything would be filmed for them, and he would not roll around at flea markets. And mirrorless cameras have their drawbacks. Vera, do not bother, take a camera that you like and can afford, I would recommend only a little more advanced - 5100 or 5200, and that is not fundamental.
Full of examples, google to help.
The easiest option is to look in the profile topics in the photo ru. See the difference between Kenon 5d and Nikon dhhhh in color? The price of cameras is comparable.
If you do not distinguish between colors and midtones poorly, then any camera is suitable.
And once again - the DSLR crop has died as a class for today.
Buying a crop DSLR without fine-tuning the AF is a guaranteed hemorrhage. Then run and adjust or sit on a frozen live view.
For a novice amateur photographer, a mirrorless camera is much more convenient and it is much easier to get good photos with it. And immediately see the exposure, and af in the eyes, and an excellent video and no problems with the adjustment ..
There is simply no reason to buy DSLR crop for beginners.
Opinion of a novice amateur photographer) chose for a long time, and bought the canon m100 as the first camera. Some knowledge in the field of photography was, my father used to work as a photographer, taught him something. The camera was also needed for work: portrait photography, some interiors and objects. I shot it on m100 for about a week, I was unhappy. The pictures are soapy, strange work of AF near the MDF. A defective lens may have come across. As a result, I paid a little extra and exchanged it for d5600 in the same store. And it's just heaven and earth. The speed and accuracy of autofocus, ease of control, battery, photo quality even on the kit 18-55 - in everything the d5600 is just a cut above. Not to mention the number of available optics) Of the advantages of the m100 - only the size and video shooting (stabilization and autofocus). Liveview in CZK Nikon is really so-so, very slow work and AF. Although smooth focus adjustment is available with AF-P lenses, it's a big plus for video. In general, UPC is not always the best option.
So convincing. And the price of the BZK with good EVI? And the park and the price of lenses (and their presence on the secondary)?
But what to take specifically depends on the tasks that were not voiced. The first bz kenon crop 1.6 from $ 150, through the adapter put any kenon lenses, the park is the largest in the world).
Or maybe a micra will suit a person.
If you need ff, that is, sony bz for $ 600 and so on ...
For any tasks, crop SLRs have long been no longer the best option, especially the Nikon whistle transponders of the d3xxx and d5xxx series and their analogues from kenon.
In my opinion, a person wants to buy the first DSLR and this holivar about color, the divine skinton, the divine microcontrast, he does not need anything and may never be needed. They will shoot the child on holidays on a whale and rejoice, and you have 5d right away.
And I don’t know your religion, so I won’t immediately say which way the holivar will go. About ssd or boot, or maybe fuj?)
He wants to buy just a SLR just because of the presence of a mirror? Canon 5d $ 200. Are there better options at this price?
And just to shoot children without a mirror is much better, more convenient and focusing on the eyes, and with a bunch of other features including video. Maybe Dade Mikra Panas or Olik Bulut is the best choice.
Once again, is the crop of a DSLR Nikon d3xxx or d5xxx better than a lot of crop mirrorless or better than a full 5d frame? Just list)))
Have you ever worked with mirrorless or full frame?
An immodest question - is there any way to shoot children with a smartphone? Read Arkady's article about this.
The conclusion is very simple - crop DSLRs are simply useless, they are merged by all and sundry.
For a family home, an inexperienced photographer is much more comfortable with a mirrorless camera if you really want to get something different from a smartphone.
- the same matrix as a DSLR and the same quality
- more accurate and better af with focusing on the eyes
- matrix stub
- you can see the exposure immediately
- no problems with front and back focus in general
- great video
What Michael does not suit you in the mirrorless that you so insistently insist on the old trash? You can not sell your old crop SLR?
This anonym = Anatoly, who has been scribbling in one sense for many years - nikon guano, wrong color, wrong buttons, wrong price, all wrong, better buy a canon. Sometimes diluting with the fact that even a smartphone is better, and if you want a class at all, then buy a Canon. Typical vocabulary and sentence structure. Found in all topics. Don't feed him anymore, he has a pay for each post.
I agree. I also have experience with canon (100D and 800D), and if we compare the average canon, then it is a competitor only to the initial CZK from Nikon of the previous generation. Honestly, after switching from Nikon to Canon, then to Nikon, I don't want to go back to cheap plastic with ever-noisy matrices anymore.
It looks like a complex of a person who bought a canon and is now trying to justify the purchase by any means.
In the $ 200- $ 300 segment, I would recommend the Canon 5d. This is a full frame and not a neutered crop, read her review from Arkady.
If color is not important, do not take crop DSLRs at all, they are now leaving the market. Take a mirrorless mirror at least so as not to have problems with front back focus.
Again, the girl is frightened. If the lens is normal, then the crop SLR will focus normally. A fast aperture and focus adjustment will smear if autofocus gets in the wrong place. And just an object is enough to swing unnoticed.
Will not. Read the alphabet of the photo, why you always need to do the adjustment on the mirrors. On high-apertures, the back front with a small flu is simply better visible. It doesn’t depend on the lens in any way, well, there are no lenses perfectly aligned for your carcass from the factory)))) because there are tolerances and the plane of the phase af in the mirror always does not coincide with the matrix, unlike the mirrorless mirror.
So I recommend reading on the topic before posting nonsense.
You post nonsense. Most have no problems with this, you are probably lucky as a drowned man. Of course, there are lenses, especially from third-party manufacturers, which require adjustment. But there is always a choice. And what, contrast focusing has already become ideal?
And in general, for viewing a photo on a computer-TV set, and printing at 10 * 15 and a good soap dish is enough. I took a high-aperture soap dish (1.4) with the second camera - sometimes it is indistinguishable from a DSLR. Admit it - your battles at the expense of skinton are not needed by anyone but you. And the SLR is still good for its rate of fire and autonomy, even an amateur one. Especially considering their secondary market price.
You, as usual, post nonsense without reading posts.
Tighten and try to read before shaking the air.
As I already said, a smartphone is enough for many tasks, nobody needs soap dishes.
If you want color, volume and other, you need ff, bz or zk.
For home and family crop mirrorless is excessively enough.
What exactly are you arguing with? )
Why FF? Mediums are better. The question was about this price range, and you are pushing FF and BZ, forgetting that it is already at least 2-3 times more expensive. The smartphone is at least not convenient, the prosumer has mirrorless ergonomics and compact dimensions. Buy BZ and use lenses from ZK - why then BZ? Full of acquaintances who also read a lot from bought BZK or FF. Now they gather dust, because they don't want to sell cheaply, and shoot on smartphones. Used amateur DSLRs are great because you can sell almost nothing or lose nothing at all. To understand - is it yours. And then decide what you need. You yourself have already forgotten the original question, can you read it yourself?
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Faith, 2 bits only decide on processing. When you want to extract something from overexposure or shadows, but there is simply nothing there. D5xxx may turn out to be a camera forever, D3xxx - to decide. But D3xxx is sufficient in most cases. Those who offer something are sometimes much more expensive - akin to patients with audiophilia. The difference in quality per penny, overpayment per ruble.
How much nonsense has been written here over the past three days in this thread.
Let the person buy what he wants. Do not bother. This is not from your wallet.
It’s wrong to advise a beginner to buy a used camera, especially if there is no certainty how long this camera will last. Well, I bought S3Pro. And after a half thousand frames, a shutter replacement is needed. Why does a beginner need a hemorrhoid with Byzantine era cameras?
Here one comrade insists that B. at. UPC and FF cost as much as a crop, forgetting to mention the cost and choice of lenses, as well as the number of offers of the carcasses themselves.
Front / back is also a horror story for beginners (if anything, it is adjusted once, and then it works ok with normal optics), but on dark zooms, it doesn't matter at all, the depth of field is huge there.
I believe B.U. You can take it, but a beginner should be helped by a knowledgeable person who can quickly, on-site check the camera’s performance in all modes (and possibly bargain). (Already three of my friends / acquaintances have got used cameras with my help, everything works, everyone is happy)
Of course, the new is better and more pleasant (+ guarantee), if the wallet allows.
Yeah, especially if it's a dime, which FIGs are so easy to check and for which they liked to shoot all kinds of bombs. The risk to run into a novice is huge
Hello, I’m interested in whether there is a function of displaying ISO changes and shutter speed in Live View on this camera and on the D5600? To see the changes before taking the photo and not after) For example, like on the Canon 600D.
Yes, I checked it in A and S modes, as well as when the 'AutoISO' function is on, the display shows the parameters with which the shooting will be made - shutter speed, aperture, ISO.
PS I checked on the D5100, I think everything is also on the following cameras
Thank you very much for the above opinions on my question !! And a deep bow to Arkady for the site! In our village, there is nowhere to look at live photographic equipment, but here on the site everything is on the shelves and with pictures))) I have had Nikon D10 with a Nikon 5000mm 35 lens for about 1,8 years. I take pictures of my children, cats and dogs, for myself, mainly on the street, on hikes, my camera is like my own, but I patted it, of course, it was not a miracle, so I thought about switching to d5300 or d3300, the main criterion is a new clean one, well, stronger, matrix))) the budget is 30tr maximum, so I don’t consider the crop. unknowingly, I cannot assess the condition. I read about mirrorless cameras that they are capricious in terms of dust and moisture protection - for me the fundamental moment in the campaign.
But about colors, thank you guys, you opened your eyes, I thought that ALL digital cameras transmit colors like that))) I thought that natural colors are just film ... So what should I do now ??)) I'll have to go through all the reviews on cameras in within your budget to find the best color
Yes. The film, by the way, doesn’t give out natural colors, yes. See reviews. If you do not like the colors of Nikon, you can see another manufacturer. Each has its own color rendition. There are not many differences by model.
Plus different image processing algorithms
Faith, mirrorless have different degrees of dust and moisture protection, depending on the model and brand. In terms of reliability, mirrorless mirrors are noticeably more reliable than DSLRs due to the much smaller amount of mechanics.
Of the advantages of bz, you will have evi and not ovi - that is, what you see is what you get in terms of exposure, no fine adjustment of af is required, and a very useful 5-stop camera stabilizer. Well, quality video.
As for color, the cameras you mentioned have about the same color. Try different brands, maybe something will like more. Processing can fix far from everything.
Evi plus doubtful, this is a matter of habit, no more
The film has never been accurate color. Different brands and different films produced very different results, remember agfa, all sorts of astia and velvia.
Well, in principle, I realized what you are looking for. I recommend trying Sony a7mk3, Nikon d850, bz fuji, bz olympus, kenon 5d, 5dmk2, mk4, mk3, 6d, 6dmk2.
Better yet, learn how to process it and your colors will be what you want, not what you need. Though film, even non-film.
Film is the result of experimentation in selecting those color transformations that will be perceived by the eye as artistic. And then, not all types of film are suitable for all subjects. Someone better landscape, someone succeeds in a portrait. Moreover, the main thing that the film does is selective reduction of the number of shades, their "convergence", due to this motley and heterogeneous frames look more coherent, "picturesque".
From the camera you need to decide what exactly you want. A dirty matrix can also be cleaned. A larger matrix is also needed for certain purposes, it is unlikely that you decided to print your children and animals on outdoor banners. Set goals - what exactly would you like to improve and choose the right camera.
Roman, do not confuse matrix size and matrix resolution.
Size is not associated with print sizes in any way. Well, absolutely nothing!)))
Matrix size affects influenza, and often high iso. Therefore, for example, pictures on ff look more voluminous and more beautiful than on crop.
The resolution of a matrix is how many megapixels it has. This affects (oversimplified!) The max print size, diffraction limit, blur and wiggle, detail.
Optimal for today is a 20MP crop and 30MP ff. This is if we ignore a bunch of conditions and details.
Further. Post-processing is not a panacea and will not fix the matrix color curve. That is why people change systems, knowing how to handle ditches very well)))).
Resolution depends on the size of the matrix very much (in addition to the number of pixels) it is not necessary to generalize
And who argues with this? Carefully read the posts above.
Roman's statement was that the size of the matrix affects the size of the print, which is basically wrong. FF 12mp can be printed at a smaller size than crop 24mp with other things being equal.
Or isn’t it? ))))
Not understood. What is wrong? How "not at all"? Matrix size affects the maximum allowable print size, without loss of resolution. But this is theory, in practice the weakest point is precisely the print resolution. Here Arkady has articles about megapixels and print resolution. Read it and everything will become clear to you.
FILM size affects print size.
DIGIT operates with pixels, it is their number that affects the maximum print size (simplified explanation). By itself, the size of the sensor does not, does not affect the print size at all, because you are printing not the area of the sensor, but the pixels written to the file)))).
Well do a super elementary test. Open the full-size double-crop frame with a 20mp matrix and a snapshot from d700 or 5d with 12mp on the preview. Which picture is MORE? ))) here it can be printed in large size, and it will be a tiny double crop and not a huge full frame! ))))
I looked at the articles by Arkady, it is not clear where you found Arkady to argue that the size of the matrix affects the maximum print size? Can you quote?
I found that it indicates the number of pixels necessary or sufficient for printing some sizes, which is logical and true, where does the sensor size ??? Where did you get this?
I haven’t seen Arkady, but the optical system will give different resolutions for different sensor sizes. It's all about the resolution of the lens and its fall at infinity, so 24 MPix on a half-frame device will not give such a resolution as 24 MPix at 35 mm, and then on increasing
Clearly, I didn’t read, but I condemn)))
do not distort the subject of discussion, okay? and moreover, do not substitute concepts.
Roman made an illiterate statement that in digital photography, the maximum print size depends on the sensor size. the answer is simple - DOES NOT DEPEND. you are printing PIXELS. and Arkady never claimed such senseless nonsense, at least I could not find it in his articles. )))
As for the generally long list of factors on which the DETAILS of the printed frame may depend (do not confuse the max size which depends on pixels and only on pixels!), Then this detail is measured, for example, in lines per mm and depends on all factors that affect it, such as: the quality of the matrix itself (signal / noise), shake, blur, back / front, focus error, lens resolution, (for BZ - tent shock), light / lighting, RAV artifacts, etc.
“But optically the system will give different resolutions for different sensor sizes. It's all about the resolution of the lens and its fall at infinity, so 24 MPix on a half-frame camera will not give such a resolution as 24 MPix on 35mm "
=========================
nonsense on the rise. )))
simple test.
35mm Art Sigma lens (for example), put through an adapter on a 2x crop of 20MP, on 1.5x 16MP and FF 12MP.
Max print with the highest detail will be on 2 crop, then on 1.5 crop and the most soapy picture will be on 12MP FF. ))))
and then even more interesting.
crop x2 with 20 megapixels will often give out in the hands of a pro a more detailed picture than for example in the hands of an amateur d800, which is famous for its lubrication and movement, while the maximum print size will be larger by d800 (35 megapixels). And a crop of 2x with 16MP will give out a larger print size and a larger resolution than the ancient 12MP d700 with 12MP. )))
In general, everything is just a little bit to get to understand how it works and practice, practice ...
In the end, look at what size is measured when you send the file to print)))).
You do not sleep that you wrote so much? Which of your posts should I reply to? And please already be called something, otherwise I don’t understand talking with one person or with several anonymous people.
Verbosity and a large number of arguments are one of the signs of wrongness, since it is an attempt to bury the grain of discussion under a mountain of chaff. Therefore, I will immediately answer the main question - Roman is absolutely right on the merits of the issue, and you are only formally, and insist on your formalism. Let me explain if our goal is to print only megapixels, without taking into account what they carry - then yes, the main thing is that there are many, and if there is a high-quality image, then the size of the matrix plays no less important role than megapixels.
And now the points:
- post 21:06. The first paragraph was answered above. The second paragraph - compare the comparable 24mp on crop and ph.f., try sprinkling in the editor, and the questions will disappear;
- post 21:13 Read thoughtfully and more. Perceive not only the reproduced information, but also the consequences from it. If there is a lack of information, read other articles;
- fasting 22:39 Absolutely true;
- post 03:01 Yes, I repeat, if we don't care what we printed, then only pixels, if we print an image, then please observe the detail. And when listing the factors influencing the detailing, you probably merged the size of the matrix into “etc.”;
- post 03:03 No, not delirium, but science, in contrast to your experience with incomparable.
- post 03:21 And if there is a shake on the crop? Again - compare the comparable. Will give more if the lens allows. What is measured is understandable, but it is also important what is in them. Yes, everything is relatively simple, and practice is an extremely necessary thing, but without theory it is blind.
Alexei, I’ve laid out everything for you at the kindergarten level. If you still don’t understand, I can’t help.
And do not drag Arkady, he never enchanted your enchanting nonsense in his articles.
Alexei, are you unable to send any picture to print? )))) it’s very sad, then they would see that the linear print sizes are associated exclusively with the image size in pixels, as well as its display on the screen 1: 1.))))
And no way, absolutely no way the print checks the size of the matrix this file is taken from))))))
Read the alphabet of digital photo)))))
Alexey, it just so happened that in Europe I work just with photo stocks and the issue of printing is a common thing there. If you ever want to get serious about photography, you have to raise your level of schoolboy-couch theorist. The stock requires two technical characteristics from the photo - the size in pixels and the absence of defects. Therefore, for example, 20mp crop 2x will be accepted for large print, but ff 12mp will not))))). You see, it's just a business, they don't have time to study your fantastic nonsense))))
I tell you about Thomas, you tell me about Erem, they explain to you how to get an image suitable for printing with high resolution, you are about how to print. You think linearly, and are not able to take a step to the side, or simply insist on your formal position, not wanting to admit wrong, which also doesn’t color you.
Your experience with photo stocks is not alpha and omega, and then two requirements have led. What is the second then? How to achieve it? And so it’s true, nobody cares how you achieved detail at the given pixel sizes.
You should study the basics of optics, starting with the wave theory of light, and only then the basics of digital photography.
And for the insults, a special thank you - when there are no arguments, they go to the individual, you did not bring arguments, but you rolled down to insults - which is typical for Anonymous.
Alexey, you mixed up all the concepts in a bunch, people, horses ... wave theory of light or wave corpuscular? ))))
Then why did you attribute your delusional theories to Arkady, which he never said))))
Then, in good faith, you do not read this ## As for the generally long list of factors on which the DETAIL of the printed frame may depend (not to confuse the maximum size that depends on pixels and only on pixels!) Then this crushed detail is measured, for example, in mm by mm and depends from all the factors that influence this, such as: the quality of the matrix itself (signal / noise), movement, blur, back / front, focus error, lens resolution, (for the shock protection tent), light / lighting, RAV artifacts, etc. .d. ####
And when you are caught lying about Arkady and about nonsense about the sensor, you wag with statements about your non-linear logic and illogical thinking))))).
This is the typical behavior of the schoolboy theorist, no offense, it's just a term for the grief of the guru of a pseudo specialist who heard something somewhere but didn’t understand and didn’t try it himself)))) but with the appearance of a connoisseur he speaks truths about the nature of light and three elephants, and the simplest test itself is not able to do)))
Comrades, stop it. From these disputes, your photos will not be the best. All this is not so important to spend so many nerves :)
Arkady sorry to get involved in an argument. I just don't like it when a person misleads other people - it's bad.
I will answer the last time to anonymous.
I omitted the corpuscular one because you will generally get confused, and in the discussed issue it can be neglected. Your pixels, without detailing, have no practical value. Detailing is measured in lin / mm - that's right, here the manufacturers are a little cunning, indicating the resolution in megapixels. When listing the factors affecting detail, you omit one of the most important parameters - the size of the matrix. Moreover, you make a mistake, considering the matrix in isolation, and not in the system: the lens is the matrix. Therefore, the size of the sensor is not nonsense, and I do not need to wiggle. About the rest, which “no offense” is on your conscience. And to communicate without introducing yourself, already an insult to the interlocutor.
Film color is, first of all, very smooth color transitions.
In pursuit of pure high ISOs, many brands use subtle color filters on the sensor - more light - better high ISOs. The reverse side of the coin - halftones disappear, their camera compensates by increasing saturation.
As a result, everything seems to be colorful and beautiful, but not that! )))
Hello Arkady, I want to know your opinion or can someone give advice? I want to update my Nikon D90 camera, as there is already a lack of resolution, the noise is high, and I want more focus points :) I can't save on the Nikon D7100 / 7200, my hands are itching to buy the D5300, I don't need a screwdriver, but the lack of a monochrome display is dark the viewfinder and the absence of other pleasant things give a little doubt ... Should you change the D90 to D5300 for a leisurely reportage, objects and photo sessions in the studio and sometimes on the street?
It is not clear why for the above scenes more resolution and more focus points. As soon as you answer this question to yourself, then the answer to the question whether to change
Faced with strangeness in the D5300 during interval shooting.
Full M mode, both with a manual lens and with AF-P DX 18-55.
All noise suppressors, autofocus, stabilizers and control. distortions are disabled. There is enough charge on the battery (3 green stripes).
Shutter speed 10sec (tried different), Interval 1 sec (tried up to 10 sec), number of frames 50 (tried more and less). JPEG image size tried different. Start shooting immediately, without a timer delay.
The camera takes only 7-8 frames, then the shooting itself stops. The camera is on a tripod and in the process I don’t touch it.
Someone tried interval shooting, maybe I don’t understand something or am not doing it right?
I found a discussion of the issue in the Nikon Club. It turns out you need to set the interval for more exposure.
This is just logical: the intervalometer 'presses' the button at a predetermined interval (for example, once every 1 seconds). If the interval is less (or equal to) the shutter speed, there will be some glitches.
the more I read, the harder it is to choose.
I’m still a beginner and I had the choice to take in 5300 or for example 5100 or 5200. It seems that each has its pros and cons, but I really want to try out old lenses in the near future. I understand that compatibility with this camera may not happen.
If you want to shoot with old lenses, then it's better not to take Nikon at all. All cameras released in the last five-year plan shoot normally - you can take any
Good afternoon! I purchased this camera to replace the D5100. 99% of the time I’m shooting a landscape. I really don't like the white balance. At the exit, a yellow-green porridge, which is difficult to rule in Lightrum. Shooting constantly in RAW. Maybe I'm somehow setting the BB wrong? Out of habit, he is exhibited in Auto. thanks
Try a native converter
Thanks for the answer. It’s a bit complicated. Put it up for sale and so far returned to the D5100
View camera profiles. Try others. RAW does not change no matter how you set the BB, it is fixed in the file when shooting, but does not affect the data from the matrix, it can be changed and displayed with a different value.
When working with a landscape, you can move the green sliders - saturation and hue. Someone likes juicy greens, someone dull, someone is warmer, someone is colder. This is from the basic settings. If something is more interesting, you can use loot.
Landscapes do not work out very well on a sunny day under the midday sun. Part of the shine of the leaves can be removed by the polarizer, then the foliage becomes more uniform (well, the sky is darker at the same time). Here it is better to wait for time closer to dawn or sunset.
So there are much more aspects, Th simply D5100 and BB.
Thanks for the answer. I shoot with a polarizing filter and a set of Lee filters, and most of the time. I just don’t like colors somehow after D5100
Nikon D5300 has another sensor which is noticeably different in color from the D5100.
These differences are before writing to the RAV and therefore they do very poorly in post processing.
IMHO, in D5100, the overall picture in color is more interesting.
Thanks for the answer. I agree in you. For my taste, there is something wrong with the D5300 picture.
Well, you fired a brick into the camp of those who asserted “there is no bad color, there are crooked hands that poke poorly in the editor”.
This is such a delusional and technically illiterate statement that I don’t even see the point of discussing it.
Color filters from different matrices and from different manufacturers give different colors.
And you can’t create half-tones that aren’t there. )
All that can be fixed in development and post-processing is the demosaic color profile and play with curves, bb and saturation. This is a lot, but again, it will not return what is not there, and it is extremely difficult to correct color spots and floated colors.
* earnestly praises the Lord, who did not give the opportunity to distinguish between “interesting” and “uninteresting” colors *
Again, the clones began to mess up the branch.
Arkady, can you ban these troll novels and co?
These are not clones, and they communicate with you on the topic.
I received a response from the lawyer to the screenshot.
The fasting of a Roman can qualify as an insult and a mockery of the feelings of believers.
Arkady, you do not want to take action?
* prays to the Lord that it be a thick clumsy trolling * Because if it is not a thick clumsy trolling, then you are completely gone.
Truly :)
“The result is a yellow-green porridge that is difficult to go to Lightroom” - try developing in Capture One. In terms of the possibilities of working with color, it surpasses LightRum by an order of magnitude.
C1 is certainly better than lightroom in this regard, but even he is not able to fix the mess.
So with experience comes understanding why people are switching to a system with worse dd but with a clean, commercial color. As they say it was smooth on paper but forgot about the ravines.
Technology does not stand still, digital photography is still a teenager, and in the future, I hope we will see new matrices with both a high dynamic range and the widest color spectrum.
There is no economic sense.
Something will happen but at space prices for pro use.
For normal use, the future is in computing photography, now smartphones in many cases shoot better than crop budget bells and whistles.
could not resist your statement about the white balance. So in my opinion it always needs to be set manually if such a responsible shooting, in this regard all cameras are wrong ... The color system of such famous brands as Nikon Kenon and others is quite accurately calibrated if the BB is set correctly, but in fact it takes a few seconds , for example, with the help of a gray card or a simple white sheet ... Then you will not have to edit, and also all the colors will “fall into place”. Of course, different cameras differ in color reproduction, there is a king in the form of Canon 1Ds Mark3, but others are also normal. Try setting the BB manually. By the way, I am writing this because today I accidentally had to compare the D5300 and the famous Canon 70D for video in terms of video, one Chinese compared them. He himself was surprised when in real life the video from the D5300 was much more lively and enjoyable, and after manually exposing the BB, the video from the canon and next to it did not stand. I myself could not believe it, since on the Internet it seems like all the observers prove the opposite with their own eyes. And now I think that 90% of them are manipulations, there is one video where he looks faded with the D7100, the colors are useless, but with the 70D you just want to watch and watch, etc. And now I realized that this is a simple manipulation, paid manipulation, the author of this review simply set the exposure adjustment to +1, and greatly reduced the saturation, and not only set everything correctly on the canon, but added contrast, saturation, and maybe even an ND filter picked up. Ordinary people always trust the observers on youtube, they create the impression that everything is shown directly, with the help of a video, so to speak, you see everything as it is, but in fact, after the video, the display of the results cannot be faked, corrected, so that the customer there was something to pay for ... The whole world history was falsified by those gentlemen for the sake of money and profit, what should they fake simple tests of some cameras ...
Everything as it is, all capitalism is based on manipulation, playing with concepts, terms, marketing for consumption, etc.
Hello. Nikon AF-S 50mm f / 1: 1.4 G turned up to me. Is it for full-frame cameras? But so far I only have the D5300 crop. Can I combine these two friends? Is it possible to use such a lens on the crop? And what are you afraid of when shooting? (I'm an amateur, I don’t understand much about this)
Yes, you can. You will lose in convenience, specifically in the viewing angle.
You will not lose anything. The viewing angle will change, become Already, but this loss or gain depends on your needs and ideas, on the shooting conditions and so on. Now I often shoot for fifty dollars, and also on a crop. I'm quite comfortable. In general, shoot for your own pleasure, bother with technical reviews less, pay more attention to the photography itself.
Good afternoon.
I’m thinking of selling my D5300 and buying a D7100.
Do you think it makes sense?
What will I get, what will I lose?
Get a little better AF, convenient control, a motor in a carcass, metering with manual optics, a more capacious battery, a little higher burst speed. If something of the above is VERY missing for you, then there is a sense of replacement, otherwise - no (IMHO).
Lose the swivel screen, shoot video at 1080x60p / 50p (60i / 50i only), and less weight.
In the last photo (Nikon D5300 with Nikon ED AF Nikkor 80-200mm 1: 2.8D (MKII) lens)
The description for this lens indicates that autofocus will not work with the D5300 camera (without a screwdriver)
That is, as I understand it, have to focus manually?
Yes
I thought for a long time how to replace my Canon 1100d, which became faulty after the fall. I read a bunch of articles and posts on the forums. In total, I bought the Olympul pl9 BZK just a carcass. To her took a pancake 12-32mm from Panasonic. What can I say after a year, the first month was very inconvenient since there was no viewfinder, during this time I got used to the uncomfortable little menu. The quality of pictures and videos (4K with high bitrate) is very pleasing (especially after buying m.zuiko 25mm 1.8, gorgeous glass for both photos and videos). The matrix stabilizer in the camera is excellent, especially with manual lenses, I bought myself another Jupiter 3 (now I abandoned it after buying m.zuiko 25mm 1.8) and mitsuki 2.8 135mm. Why am I all this, recently I had to shoot a canon 650D and honestly all the good impressions that remained in the memory of the 1100 have disappeared, maybe they just got used to the UPC or the quality of the 650D's pictures upset….
This is very valuable information for this review (no)
Good afternoon, does it make sense to change the D3300 (with impressive mileage) to the D5300? I don't want D7x - or rather I want to, but in tandem with 70-300 this burden will be too heavy. The d3300 is frustrating with its autofocus and lack of a rotating screen. Will autofocus work better, is there an accurate adjustment, and will there be an increase in the quality (clarity-sharpness) of the photo - I use sigma 2.8 17-50, nikkor 4.5-5.6 af-s 70-300 lenses and nikkor af-s 50 mm fixed lens 1.8. I shoot mostly in manual mode.
Thank you
Autofocus will not work better on one point, and there is no adjustment in the d5300 (as in the entire d5xxx series). As an increase, it will not be accurate (even at the expense of 14-bit ravs, if it is, it will be very, very unobtrusive).
How impressive is the 3300's mileage? If 100000+, then maybe just replace it with the same one? If not - do not take a steam bath and shoot.
Change - so on some already 7200 or 7100 as a last resort, there will obviously be more bonuses.
Yes, while 50k mileage, it can really save up to 7200.
Hello. Tell me please. What is the maximum capacity of memory cards supported by the D5300?
any, the SDXC specification allows the d5300 to work with any volume
Thank you. And then they told me that only 64GB and if you put more in volume, then there may be glitches in the fotik.
Tell me please. I can’t find how to turn on the Exposure Meter in A mode on the Nikon D5300 so that it is displayed on the camera screen. On manual settings it is displayed, but not on A.
Hello, I have a Nikon D5300 camera, I bought a sigma 1,4 50mm lens for it and my autofocus disappeared, that is, the motor does not spin, I only have to turn the wheel manually, but I rarely have to catch focus. What to do, how to be? How to set up autofocus?
Do you have the opportunity to test it on another camera? Focus mode (need AF-S or AF-A) what is the cost? Not M by any chance?
Good afternoon I want to thank you for such a useful site! I’m choosing my first camera, I’ve settled on the Nikon d5300 for now, I’ve also thought about the canon d600, but I still want more sharpness, the canon has disappeared, and the nikon’s picture is more pleasing to the eye. Perhaps you can advise what other models I can pay attention to? Budget 10-12k UAH for a used one, for portraits, animals, sometimes city buildings/nature, I’m also interested in a lens to make the bokeh look wow :) I’d be grateful for the hint!
Take any one you like. It's better to invest money in a lens. And here the flight of imagination is not limited. But there is no one good solution for these purposes. Start with a station wagon like 18-105/18-135/18-140 (no matter what system), fix 50/1,8
Thank you I found a nikon d5300 in conjunction with a nikkor af-s dx 18-140vr for 14000, I’m thinking of sticking with it. I couldn't find something similar from Canon in terms of characteristics and price
I also found it with an 18-105 lens, for 9200, will this be ideal? Plus buy more for portraits at 50/1,7
Yes, it is quite
Good afternoon, how will you use the rangefinder when focusing with Arsat/Kaleinar manual lenses? On Nikon D5300 and D90?
Guilty of pratsyuvati.