Nikon D200 great camera, which was released back in 2005, but can still please you with a wonderful picture. The camera has a nice clone: Fujifilm FinePix S5 Pro, which differs from the Nikon D200 only in software and better matrix.
It is very funny that now on the official website of Nikon there are only two sections for modern SLR cameras - this is a professional section and amateur. So, on the same site, the camera is positioned as semi-professional. Just after dividing only into two classes, D200 was not transferred to the “professional” section. Why am I? And to the fact that Nikon D200 is really a professional camera with which it’s not a shame to shoot any type of picture. Can here see the evolution of all Nikon cameras.
In general, I am delighted with the Nikon D200, and after a day of working with it, I don’t feel like shooting anything else. The camera is quite weighty, sits perfectly in my hand, behaves perfectly with heavy lenses.
When working with a Nikon D200 camera, I highly recommend paying attention to such important parameters as:
- Great ergonomics. This is expressed in everything from a rubberized handle and discs to a shooting mode lock. Using well-thought-out ergonomics, the camera is very convenient to control; all the most necessary settings are always available and always at hand. By the way, even the bottom of the camera (where the tripod socket is) is also rubberized.
- Optional monochrome display. Just an indispensable thing for a professional. The display shows all the most important settings - ISO, aperture values, excerptsamendments exposure, the amount of free space on the card, white balance, picture quality, flash mode, battery charge, focus point and all that is possible. When the camera is turned off, the number of frames that can be taken to the remaining space on the memory card remains on the display. The monochrome display is larger than in younger models Nikon D90, D80, D70(s) D50, D7000.
- Dust and moisture protection. Of course, it is worth mentioning that the protection will be complete only if there are dust and moisture protective lenses, but in nature I have not seen such, because I will say that the camera perfectly tolerates light rain, dust, dirt and slight frosts.
- Using the card CF. Big card CF can reach enormous read/write speeds, which is very important for continuous shooting, and indeed for copying files to a computer. Although, my CF 32GB 400x during operation showed itself to be only 5MB/sec better than SD 32 GB class 10. As you understand, the Nikon D200 can handle even 32 GB normally.
- Huge continuous shooting buffer. Buffer can store 21 RAW files. Given that the maximum shooting speed 5 frames per second, the camera can click as long as 4 seconds in quick mode. 4 seconds is already a normal indicator. For example, my Nikon D90 starts to slow down after three seconds of filming at a speed of 4.5 frames per second. Also, keep in mind that when shooting in JPEG, the buffer becomes almost dimensionless.
- Whole 10.2 megapixels. Chasing megapixels is not worth it at all, but still 10.2 MP is enough for shooting in almost any genre. Of course, more is better, but I do not see any difference between the 10.2 megapixels of my Nikon D200, D80 and 12.3 megapixels of mine Nikon D90. Anyway, baby Nikon D40 with its 6.1 MP it can sometimes do with sharpness Nikon D90 with the same lens - look at the section Battle of Megapixels.
- The matrix on ISO 100 allows you to get just a very good picture, everything above ISO 400 is already a very bad result. About it a little lower. Having experience working with processing images from different cameras, I can say that at low ISOs, at some points, a CCD image is simpler and easier to “bring to mind”. The matrix of the Nikon D200, although in some respects similar to the sensors used in the models Nikon D80, D40x, D60, D3000but still different. Details here.
- The camera has focus motor, this will allow you to use any optics that can focus on Nikon, for example, the camera works great with non-motorized lenses Nikon 50mm F1.8D, Nikon 70-210 F4, etc. The motor buzzes when focusing, but nothing can be done, in order to save money on non-motorized lenses, you can be patient.
- The camera can measure exposure with any lens (and without a lens at all). This means that it will be possible to work in semi-automatic aperture priority mode with any manual lens. Even if you wear instead of a lens tin can, the camera will still measure exposure meter correctly. Also, for older lenses, a menu for setting the focal length and maximum aperture is provided. It is very, very convenient. Personally, I put on the programmable button the choice of focal length and aperture for manual optics. When I use my Helios-81N AI-s type, the Nikon D200 camera correctly displays 50mm focal length and maximum aperture F / 2.0, and if I twist the aperture ring on the lens, the camera also understands this and shows the following values F / 2.8, F / 4.0, etc. Important set manual lens parametersfor matrix metering to work, otherwise only spot and center-weighted will work.
- At the camera 11 focus points and just one cross-shaped sensor. Now 11 focus points put on the simplest Nikon D3000You won’t be surprised. But the camera has 4 focus modes and a special switch for them.
- Nikon D200 has a minimum 1/8000 short shutter speed, sometimes a very useful thing, especially when you need to shoot at aperture of 1.4 (or higher) on a sunny day. And still, Nikon D200 can fulfill non-standard excerpts type 1 \ 750, 1 \ 3000, 1 \ 90s, etc., which cannot be selected in priority mode excerpts or in manual mode. Intermediate values shutter speed allow adjust exposure more precisely. For example, with such shutter speeds, younger cameras, like Nikon D80, D90.
- The camera can control flashes in command mode. That is, if you have a Nikon D200 and any flash like Nikon SB-600, SB-700, SB-800, SB-900, SB-910 or third-party manufacturers, you can put it in a radius of 10 meters and shoot using Nikon's creative lighting system NIKON-CLS.
- And of course, fast flash sync. You can shoot with an external flash that supports FP mode, with any shutter speedup to 1/8000. Very important and necessary parameter.
- A bunch of all sorts of connectors that you rarely use, it's just too lazy to write about them, who cares, download the instructions and read for yourself.
- Limit ISO 100-1600 (100-3200). At the moment, this is not the best indicator, but I would say very low.
- The camera has 1.005-pixel RGB matrix metering sensor exposureinherited from the flagship camera D2X. Measurement works very accurately.
- Those who have read up to this seventeenth paragraph have probably already grown tired. There are many more important points that should be written about, but this is already necessary for a very narrow circle of people, therefore we will limit ourselves to this list of important aspects of the camera.
Disadvantages. Since I took the camera to a professional type, you can demand a lot from it. because I consider serious shortcomings:
- The delay when you turn on the menu or view pictures. Delay does not always occur, depending on whether you watched or took a picture on the camera. Usually, after turning on the camera and pressing the menu button or viewing the image, the camera “thinks” for 3-5 seconds, which is a disastrously long period of time. The card activity indicator is on. Actually the “communication" of the camera with the card takes this time. On my two cards, 2GB and 32GB 400x, the delay time is the same. This is not a very important point, but sometimes waiting for 3-5 seconds is still not a hunt. But the camera turns on instantly.
- The battery runs out very quickly. Really I have enough battery for 400 shots. You can still take a small photo shoot on one charge. But, for example, at a wedding without 2-3 batteries just can not do (checked more than once). This disease is treated by buying a special booster. The booster adds convenience when shooting, but it takes extra space in the case and adds extra weight.
- The viewfinder does not give 100% frame coverage, but only the usual 95%. It's really annoying when after the picture you find an extra piece in the photo that fits in these 5%, which were not visible behind the scenes.
- 2.5 inch display. Yes after Nikon D90, D300 look at 230.000 points after 900.000 points at D90 not that anymore. Of course, offending the old D200 is bad, but the display is not the same as before. Many say that the D200 gives a bad picture, from personal experience I will say that professionals will not distinguish a picture from Nikon D200 and Nikon D7000 with the same lens and the same settings at low ISO when printing and / or on a computer monitor (I personally conducted an experiment that confirmed this). But almost everyone will say that the picture looks much worse on the Nikon D200 display than anywhere else. Why is not known.
- The standard lack of gum in all Nikon cameras is that they swell and fall off. Let me explain - the rubber, which is so nice to the touch, swells over time and comes off.
- Very poor results at high ISO. Given the age of the camera, you can come to terms with this.
- It’s bad that when switching the compression level, the RAW buffer still shows 21 frames. For example: compressed RAW weighs about 10 MB, and not compressed about 16 MB, it would not be bad if the camera placed more frames in the buffer with the compressed format.
- No focus adjustment. Honestly, when I bought a Nikon D200, I was just saddened by this, since for some of my lenses adjustment would not hurt.
- Nikon D200 is one of the few cameras that does not have a menu for post-processing photos. In general, no processing of the filmed material with the camera is provided. I was very surprised when I discovered this. You can't even convert from RAW to JPEG.
A couple more moments:
Nikon D200 bribes with its ability to enlarge the image is actually 1 to 1 with one button. This is real, very much accelerates the choice of a sharp picture. Moreover, the camera enlarges the picture at the focus point. The camera is not such a familiar (for all users of the line below) the method of zooming the picture. To enlarge the picture you need to press as many as two buttons and the main control dial. But the multi selector has 8 directions. Impressions are positive.
Choose and don’t know what to take?
It is unlikely that someone will say with certainty whether the camera is suitable for you or not. At the moment Nikon D200 is outdatedher descendant Nikon D300 Has matrix cleaning, Live View and less noise at high ISO. Nikon D300s in addition, it also shoots video and clicks the shutter much faster, and even on 2 cards. Well and Nikon D7000 in general can still better. Well, if it’s at all hot to take a camera of a similar level, you can look at Nikon D80, which has similar image quality with the Nikon D200 and the only significant difference is not the ability to work with manual optics. More photos in gallery of autumn photos.
Prices for modern Nikon cameras in popular stores can look at this link.
Final World:
Nikon D200 - professional digital SLR camera, which is now not available and which can be taken at a ridiculous price. Able to do almost everything you need. Not suitable for beginners in photography - there is not a single automatic shooting mode, for everything you need to think for yourself. It is also hardly suitable for the pros, since it quickly eats up the battery and has strong noises at high ISO. But in fact, the only drawback of the camera is that now there are much more advanced Nikon D300(s) D7000that make things even better. So who will suit Nikon D200 - I can’t say for sure, but in skillful hands you can squeeze a lot from her.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval.
Ochepyatka: 'amatro':
“On the official Nikon website there are only two sections for modern SLR cameras - this is a professional section and an Amatro one”
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Fixed
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The beginning of the review: “The matrix of the Nikon D200, although some of its parameters are similar to the sensors used by the Nikon D80, D40x, D60, D3000 models, is still different. Details here.”
End of review: “you can look at Nikon D80, which has exactly the same matrix from Nikon D200”
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Fixed
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Hello everyone, help me choose a great universal lens for this old camera and its number of megapixels? I take pictures of landscapes, animals and sometimes my wife) the price is not very important
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Tamron Di II SP 17-50mm F / 2.8 VC B005
Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 17-55mm 1: 2.8G ED IF SWM
Sigma dc 17-50mm 1: 2.8 ZOOM EXOS HSM
Sigma dc 17-70mm 1:2.8-4 C
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Thanks for the lightning fast response! You really help people, good luck to you and health!
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Optionally - Tokina AT-X PRO SD 16-50 F2.8 DX
https://radojuva.com/2014/10/tokina-at-x-pro-sd-16-50-2-8-dx/
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Are there any differences in the picture between the D200 and D3000?
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Yes there is
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What are the differences and in whose favor?
D200 or d3000?
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d200 is 2 classes higher, but in general the sensors are very similar in their capabilities, as is the focus module. A matter of taste and needs of certain options.
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This is the only such camera with such a sensitive thing that is responsible for the white balance in auto mode) And something that is only in some special optics will help to fix the blue channel! :)
Here is the solution to the warm-yellow-green color during the day, which many people encounter .. Partial solution))
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You are not Bond, you are Sherlock Holmes!
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My girl has one little thing and ... what to talk about! (from)
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Hello dear community.
Tell me, please, in which direction to develop)
I use the D200 for portrait shooting outdoors (80%) and shooting dynamic scenes with (child 9 years old) Lens - 50mm 1,8D
Not satisfied with the soapiness of pictures from a short distance with an open aperture. Well, I would also like to try other focal ones.
I am considering Nikon AF Nikkor 70-210mm 1: 4Yu, the price is captivating, it is embarrassing that it is rather dark.
Nikon 35-70 2,8D - according to reviews, an excellent portrait lens, I even looked at a couple, one with a fungus, the second without screws. I don’t quite understand whether it is needed, in the presence of 50mm., And the price is not much lower than 85mm 1,8 G ...
Well, actually 85mm 1,8 G.
Or from the wrong side, I get down to business, and go to Ktitorchuk's courses, or somewhere else?
Prompt
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35-70 on a crop, no matter how that or that: as a station wagon - 35 is too much for a crop, I would take at least 20mm, the portrait starts at least from 70mm. That is, if you do not strive for a wide angle, then either 85mm, or something of the 70-200 / 210/300 class. f / 4 for such phased arrays is already quite good (if the model is sufficiently distant from the background, the background blurs well)
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Slightly exaggerating: you can shoot anything with anything. Here is a portrait at 16mm: https://thevaluablefriends.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/Sony-A6400-Sigma-16mm-1.4-Low-light-test-The-perfect-combo-1280×640.jpg
And James Popsys shoots landscapes on TV. Yes, 1.8D is slightly soapy at full open - well, cover up to 2,2 or 2,5 - my copy comes to life on this.
If you really want a zoom, then there are not so many inexpensive lenses with a constant 2.8. I would recommend Tamron 2,8 / 28-75, but I did not like its bokeh (“onion rings”). But it focuses quickly, which is important for dynamic scenes.
In general, any lens, even the most extreme one, is always a compromise. We must learn to bypass problematic moments and use strengths.
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70-210 not the sharpest, more creative
35-70 2.8d finding normal is difficult
50 1.8d on the open, also not ice
Develop in the direction of improving skills, with 50 1.8d you can do wonders, especially if you slightly modify the photo in editors, which is much more important than finding new lenses
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Thank you very much Arkady, thank you Trueash, thank you Vv.
Indeed, everything is bad with photo processing for me) Chukchi is not a writer))) I like to shoot more. This means training, plus refinement in the editor.
James Popsys looked up. Cool)
Trueash - the portrait of the girl is cool of course) Especially the model
When I need a wide angle - I shoot on a phone (Samsung), such a normal wide angle, with Kenon colors)
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There are two cameras Nikon D200 and Canon 500D. And whatever Canon 500D says here I think the results are better!
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Nifiga.
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Disadvantages: weight. battery drains quickly. winter exposure +2 stops should be set or shot in RAW!
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Pretty incoherent text. In any case, the results are better or worse for the photographer, not for the camera.
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Gold words.
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Thanks for support! I used to lean towards Nikon. Now the color reproduction is better for Canon! Yes, and there are fewer problems!
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Come on. It had both 50d (with the same matrix as the 500 and the 200) and the d500 - two hundred is better - the picture is clearer on the basic isos, the color is better, the control is much more convenient (it's even embarrassing to say that the 50d has a better viewfinder) 500d, it's even a shame to talk about XNUMXd again)
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The camera is not for sports. reporting! For extremely leisurely shooting! If you shoot in JPEG THEN MANDATORY several shots with different exposures! Bracketing, in my opinion, does not work out its functions very well ...
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Two hundred is not for sports / reporting? For extremely slow shooting?)))
Well, don't tell fairy tales))
I shot a lot of sporting events with a XNUMX - everything is fine there.
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At what distance did you shoot? RAW?
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At various distances. I always shoot Rav.
Maybe you have something with optics ... wrong?
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Well then, of course, we are sitting in Photoshop.
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Well, “we are sitting” - it will be very loudly said, I almost never spend more than a couple of minutes per frame, more often - a minute.
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What is the picture?
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And the second one is not visible!
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))) The fly is just visible) If something doesn’t work out for you (color reproduction, exposure, flies become invisible, etc.), what does the camera have to do with it? Any camera needs to be mastered and learn how to work with it.
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A fly is visible - but no sharpness!
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What's with the camera?)
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I shot as a child on Smena-8m. Is the camera good? or so-so? And the camera is useless! Here Victor admitted that he was “sitting” in the editor. Because he understands that there is no time to shoot well otherwise! Athletes run. Animals run. People are also impatient!
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Victor "confessed" that he "sits" in the editors from one to two minutes per frame, which corresponds to the basic correction on ANY camera.
If you have masterpieces at 500d right in a chamber jeep in any conditions, and it won't be difficult to give a couple of examples of this miracle, it would be extremely curious to look at them :-)
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More than 2 MB does not add.
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What should this picture show?
The fact that a card from a canon 500d can be reduced to the size of a nokia n70 display of a bearded year? ))) Well, yes. Can.
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Write your phone number.
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This is to whom the appeal?
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To you.
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What would you like to discuss that can't be done in blog comments?
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How to remove pictures from white balance from presets D1-D4 Nikon d200?
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No, it's not necessary. If annoying - you can do a factory reset
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Thanks for the answer.
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Hello Arkady!
Thanks for the great review of the retro camera pro. But which is still relevant today.
You are often asked - which camera is better?
But you always answer correctly, you can’t say and not advise d90 at one time, it’s more progressive in some respects, and you are a professional and for progress!
Therefore, you should always learn to read your texts, and understand what everyone needs.
And this comes with experience.
You are very tactful in your blog, and intervene in the discussion only on the merits of the issue.
Thank you.
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Another question for you, Arkady. I searched and did not find a sensible answer on the Nikon D200 firmware. I now have A-2.00, B-1.00. Do I need to update to the latest on the site nikon A-2.01, B-2.01.
What do my firmware say, and what will be added after the new one?
There is no flashing battery icon. Everything works fine.
As they say, "Perfect is the enemy of good." My camera was shipped to Australia, ser. number starts 603…,
Therefore, I have doubts whether it is necessary to update, are there any deterioration after the update? ?
I need your advice, given your knowledge and experience in firmware updates.
If possible, in more detail, not briefly.
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Once again - great review!
In general, it’s very good that this camera was produced a long time ago, it’s good that there are a lot of complex settings, it’s good that it’s heavy and big ...
Thanks to these qualities, it can now be bought quite inexpensively, in very good condition.
But the most important thing for those who bought it is very pleasant film colors, lively and balanced.
It's like sound tube amplifiers at a rather high price, but giving a lively natural sound, are now valued by music lovers all over the world. By the way, in the West, lamps and tube amplifiers themselves are still produced, as well as films for cameras. That is, everything for a person.
I will add once again - the choice of camera depends on the tasks and preferences of the photographer.
And nothing more.
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Good afternoon.
Arkady can not answer my question, I updated the firmware on the camera, everything is fine. It's good that the nikon website still has these firmware, although many years have passed.
I will add to your review that there is no such delay of 3-5 seconds when you turn on the menu or view pictures. The delay is no more than 1 second, which is normal. Both before and after the firmware, this delay did not change.
This remark will be useful to potential buyers of this wonderful camera.
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Good evening !
Tell me how to understand the intricacies of the settings in the “Custom Settings” Nikon D200.
With sharpness, contrast is understandable. But with the tonality, shade, I do not understand.
How and in which direction to adjust in order to change these characteristics, and what will change in the photo?
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there is in the manual https://downloadcenter.nikonimglib.com/ru/products/10/D200.html
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I took it. Mileage-0.
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Aha
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“See the run? -No. “But he is!” © almost DMB
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Look at the condition and can be taken to the service for diagnostics.
D200 with such mileage probably only from Japan in a box can come from a collector.
The service software for old Nikons goes on the Internet and there you can correct the mileage (I saw it myself), but I didn’t see this to reset it to zero.
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The mileage is adjusted to the maximum possible for display and another photo is taken to reset it to zero. Don't thank
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Are you joking like that now?)
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I now have 6348, when I bought it, it was about 5500. In my opinion, this is also zero, for a collector the mileage is zero or one frame, this is probably a fetish, I don’t see anything negative in this. But for an ordinary person, the Nikon D200 mileage of 5500 frames is the same zero as for a collector
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Yes, colleagues, you were right in your skeptical comments. When I clicked on the frame and sent it to the mileage site/site, it showed 1. So I lied with 0.
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proofs?
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Mileage is quite easily reset to 0 using the so-called. service software. Aleksey 68 can tell you here from his rich practice. If you want)
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Your sarcasm, colleague, is understandable and forgivable.
But please take a look below.
Oops..)
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But no, colleagues. Believe it or not, I opened the box myself. Okay, let's say you can solder. Looks like it hasn't been touched. On the battery - not touched.
Arkady, I don’t know what proofs are. :(
Tell me where else you can look to check, although I believe without it.
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Ready to trade for a decent Epson RD1. For 200 years I have been dreaming of a rangefinder and still nothing.
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Vasily… do you have any idea how much this Epson RD1 costs? not to mention something else. Get ready to dream another 200 years)
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I represent. But. First, I did not write that I was ready to change one for one. There would be a desire, you can discuss everything. Second - New Epsons flicker much more often than new Nikon D200s. Otherwise, they are comparable. Nikon will also be cooler. Here to whom as. Without departing far from this site, you can see what someone has a grip on, someone with one hand (it’s always interesting what he does with the second), someone has autofocus, someone has a rate of fire, video, a monitor, etc. ... and someone has a rangefinder and the absence of all of the above. People are different.
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By the way, the Nikon D100 has exactly the same matrix as the Epson...
This matrix was not installed anywhere else.
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There is a canon 450d, there are two nikons d40 and d200.
At the canons, I went through all the pros 1d and dx, and the BZK Rki
I stopped at Nikon d40, she is constantly with me with a whale lens 18-55, I shoot 90% on her now. Light, fast, but there is not enough live view, clean high ISO in the dark, and so on.
I’m thinking of getting rid of the d200, well, it didn’t fit me at all.
I like the picture better with Nikon's d40, but light and contrast are important.
Canon 450d is convenient to work with manual lenses, and optics for canon in any country in a shaft :-)
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Sort out professional cameras and turn Nikon D40? Seriously?
Simply, for the sake of tsіkavostі, but what didn't Canon EOS-1D and Canon EOS-1D X think?
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I am a pro lover, the 1d and dx family eventually disappeared due to weight (broke my back).
Namely, I like jpeg from 40, but here, as they say, for an amateur.
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Lover of what? Nothing came to mind. My google translation cannot translate into normal language those that you have written.
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Translate, Ukrainian)))
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Vіn same maє pobachiti hoch yakіs know the words, Chukchi.
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like a turbo. better than your mova ti vivchiv, hero.
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It was always interesting how you can tear your back with an extra kilogram.
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neck.
If the camera hangs around the neck.
By the evening (depending on age, someone starts in 3-4 hours) the neck and lower back can become wooden. Well, things like darkening in the eyes will begin, when, for example, at a car show, you squat or kneel and then abruptly get up with a unit or something like D3-D4 and 24-70 / 2.8.
If there is something like the D750, or even more so the weightless D40, then you get less tired.
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And with light cameras, there will be no darkening.
*
And another such moment is already typical for the tropics - when it’s something like + 32-34С and high humidity outside, the belt is soaked with sweat and starts rubbing your sweaty neck and the next day you can’t hang a heavy camera around your neck.
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That's right, I'm talking about this kilogram. The other day I tried sigma 30 1.4, it seems like a good glass, now a new dream :-)
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I’ve never understood lugging around heavy DSLRs, and even with large heavy lenses around my neck.
Small, lightweight cameras are another matter, there is no discomfort.
How inconvenient it is, there are convenient photo bags and backpacks...
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When you plan to constantly carry/carry a camera, you want minimal size and weight. You can’t just pull single bricks because you have nothing to do, you have to take them purposefully. Previously, with 1dm3 I rode a bike to the reservoir to photograph the sunset, in the evening 60 km with this brick behind my back was very felt, and also a lens, a tripod) That’s why now I’m also attracted to either a bzk or small DSLRs like d40 or 100d.
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Good afternoon, I have the following question: I now have a nikon d200 and a nikon 35mm f1.8 in my hands, I want to get a Helios 44-2, what do I need to buy/do in order to have an infinity focus?
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adapter with lens, this
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On Kufar (RB) a d200 (20k+ mileage) appeared for almost $70, and there is a d7000 (120k mileage) for a little more than $100. If I had a need, I would not hesitate to take the d7000 in tandem with the existing one, rather than the overrated “professional” d200. Comrades who have read a lot of joy sometimes sell us a tired D40 at the price of a D5100 out of the box)) this is an SSD matrix with fat pixels))
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If only they could shoot better with this “pixel” and sell it
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The d7000 is also overrated, in my opinion, from that era of the most crooked and crooked cameras from Nikon) the d200 for $70 is an excellent option. You need to understand that CCD matrices today are more like a toy for the soul.
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It’s better then d80)
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James Webb for 10 billion USD with CCD sensors cries loudly in halo orbit
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Are there any proofs? On Hubble, yes, on Hubble it is very ancient.
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Hello, while using the camera I encountered a focusing problem - it constantly misses, it’s especially painful when I use a manual lens, I don’t trust the focus indicator at all. For example, autofocus in my F100 works much faster and more accurately, I don’t understand how this can be. Maybe someone knows - this is the norm or it can be fixed somehow, for example with newer firmware.
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You need to adjust to the focus indicator. On my Nikons, focus will only come into focus when the indicator just starts blinking, and only if I turn the ring from the MDF towards infinity. If you turn the LED until it lights up steadily or rotate it from infinity to the MDF, then you won’t see a hit like your own ears.
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