replies: 1

  1. Alexander
    18.02.2020

    Arkady (or maybe someone else) please tell me how to reduce noise on the D90? I got a very noisy camera - it’s already impossible to shoot at 800. For the sake of completeness, I’ll add that you mainly shoot at a shutter speed of 250, 125, or even 60. ISO is constantly worth 200, but there is a lot of noise on it.
    And maybe at the same time someone will tell. Is it technically feasible in the SIGMA 150-500 / 5-6,3 lens to change the sharpness from one end to the other. It means that at the minimum focal lens it gives very good sharpness, but at maximum the pictures (and their 95%) are not very sharp.

    Reply

    • Arkady Shapoval
      18.02.2020

      disable ADL, enable high ISO noise reduction
      You won’t do anything with Sigma

      Reply

    • BB
      21.02.2020

      Without a tripod on the FR 500mm and a shutter speed of 1/250, 1/125, and even more so 1/60 it is very easy to get a “blur” from the camera’s movement, maybe this is the reason for the blurry photos?

      Reply

    • Vladisir
      14.05.2020

      To reduce noise in the pictures, I was helped by a Chinese lens with Ali Yangnou50 with aperture 1.8.

      Reply

  2. Alexander
    18.02.2020

    Thanks! ADL has been disabled for a long time, and for pod.shum for high. ISO used the middle version of the three (HIGH-NORM-LOW). Since, it seems, with my lens, HIGH smears the image even more.
    And what about the setting of sharpness in the camera in the case of my lens? I crop almost all the pictures, and these are mostly birds and other animals and sharpness, when I shot in JPEG, I set it to zero. Then sharpening in the editor. It seemed better to me. Or is it possible to increase the sharpness in the camera by switching from RAW to JPEG? And yes! As I understand it in RAW, these settings do not work - only in JPEG. Or is it not so?
    Thank you in advance for your response!

    Reply

    • B. R. P.
      19.02.2020

      For RAW they do not work.

      Reply

    • Michael
      19.02.2020

      It’s not worth going over - chamber “improvers” are rather primitive.

      Reply

  3. Oleg
    16.03.2020

    Good evening, Arkady! I would like to clarify one point. Are D90 and D300s matrices comparable in noise? As I understand it, both cameras relate to approximately the same time of publication. Thanks!

    Reply

    • Arkady Shapoval
      16.03.2020

      Yes, they are very similar in noise. D90 a little noise is a little less. In fact, the d300s and d90 have the same sensor.

      Reply

      • Oleg
        17.03.2020

        Thank you very much for your reply! And what about the D7000? How “small pixel” affects the noise of the matrix, if you compare these two generations - D90 and D7000? I ask myself this question, because I have a D90, I like the device, but I'm interested in shooting birds, where there are problems with a lack of light, and you can’t shoot up more than 400 without compromising the quality of the picture. I don’t want to switch to FX. So I’m thinking, does it make sense to upgrade the camera to the 7000th version, will there be a gain in the sensitivity of the matrix or thoughts in vain?

        Reply

      • Arkady Shapoval
        17.03.2020

        Yes, there will be a win, the d7000 makes less noise. But a significant improvement already with the d7500 or with a full frame

        Reply

      • Oleg
        17.03.2020

        Thank you Arkady! Multi-pixel cameras are confused not so much with the heavy weight of images, but with the doubt that their matrices will not allow my optics (I shoot on Sigma 100-300 f / 4 EX DG HSM in conjunction with Sigma 1.4x converter, in addition, there is Tokina 11 -16 / 2.8, Nikkor 28-105, bought, by the way, thanks to reading your material, for which special thanks!). And the crop camera is happy, thanks to which I get 630 mm on the sigma at the long end with a converter, which is a lot.
        In this case, I will not rush, maybe the megapixel race will someday stop and the company will give out something acceptable for my interests)).
        Thank you for your work! Interesting reviews for the joy of us lovers!

        Reply

      • Pokemon
        17.03.2020

        Quite the contrary - you are afraid that the existing lenses will not pull the small-pixel matrix, they will not be able to resolve it.

        Reply

      • Oleg
        17.03.2020

        That's right))) put it wrong

        Reply

      • us6ibd
        18.03.2020

        There are test tables to determine the resolution of the lenses in the lines. They consist of different sections with groups of lines of different thicknesses and filling densities.
        We remove the table and ... through a 20x magnifier we consider the negative, determining to what extent these lines are distinguishable. At least it’s written in all methods.
        So, the technique is not suitable for digital devices, because we rest on pixels, which are larger in size than the pairs of lines in the table in the group corresponding to the resolution of even 20 ,,, 25 lines. Test on D610 (24MP)
        Therefore, even the most budget lenses to implement their resolution in the lines will require matrices of at least 100 megapixels. And it will not be soon. And there is no special need.
        Conclusion (IMHO): any budget lens is superior in resolution to any existing digital matrix.
        For a working ISO, see the DxoMark website. For FF, ISO2900-3000 is a good indicator. All Nikon FFs provide this. At Canon - only starting with the 5D Mark IV.
        On the D80 I never shot on ISOs above 200. 400 was already enraged because of the noise.
        On the D610 I can use 3200.

        Reply

      • Michael
        18.03.2020

        Pixels are just smaller in size. For the FF 24 megapixels, this is about 90 lines / mm - the interpolation is still about a third. As a result, 60 lines / mm

        Reply

      • Neustrdm
        18.03.2020

        Compared D7000 and D5000 (same matrix as on D90)
        The D7000 makes less noise, about half a foot from the force, so it's not a panacea.

        Reply

      • Oleg
        18.03.2020

        Thanks! I agree with you, really, not a panacea

        Reply

      • Konstantin
        21.09.2020

        What about the D7000's dynamic range, which is noticeably higher than the D90?
        Raw files from the D7000 stretch noticeably better than from the D90.
        Especially if you need to pull something out of the shadows.
        Besides, the D90's AF makes it work only through one point.
        And there is no shutter speed of 1/8000, which is useful if you shoot with a high-aperture fix with an open hole on a sunny day.
        And the D7000 focuses through the LV noticeably faster, the D90 often dulls when shooting through the LV.
        And these are not all the advantages.
        The difference between D7000 and D90 is big, which cannot be said about the difference between D7000 and D7100, there is not such a big difference.
        But changing the D90 to the D7000 is definitely worth it, especially since the D7000 is now generally inexpensive.

        Reply

      • BB
        18.03.2020

        the d7000 has a working ISO about half a stop higher than the D90; the D7100 has another half stop. On the D7100 I try not to use Iso above 2500.
        Regarding the small pixel (on the D7100): with 18-105, 18-140, 70-300G lenses you can get very close to pixel-by-pixel sharpness, with fixes (I actively used Nikkor 50 / 1.4, Yongnuo 35/2, Yu-37p) - and even more so. I did not feel any problems with the 16MP crop matrix. True, do not forget about the problem of micro-grease, with 24 megapixels it is easy to get micro-grease without stabilization: the shutter speed that I recommend - in the region of 1 / (2 * FR) - from my personal experience received blurry pictures at 140mm and 1/160.

        Reply

      • Oleg
        18.03.2020

        Thanks a lot! The fact of the matter is that this micro-lubrication confuses me on multi-pixel cameras, my optics are unstabilized (a wide-angle lens does not count). And I do not need 24 megapixels at all (do not print posters!).
        The D7100 camera seemed interesting in that you can additionally crop the matrix up to 1.3x if you shoot with a telephoto lens.
        T.O. I leave myself my own D90 and do not bother)). I looked at the D300s at one time, but now I don’t see the point in it for my needs.

        Reply

      • BB
        18.03.2020

        more pixels - more possibilities to sprinkle :-)
        × 1.3 I also sometimes use it when the zoom is not enough, it remains on the order of 12 megapixels): you can, of course, crop it later, but it's overweight. And the rate of fire is added and the buffer is increased.
        My opinion is that switching from d90 to D7100 means you don’t lose anything (from what D90 can do), you get extra. buns (AF, ISO, resolution, control) and better color.

        Reply

      • Oleg
        19.03.2020

        Thank you!)) I'll think about what you said. Of course, I was more interested in the ISO problem and the possibility of this feature (D7100) “features” x1.3. The color, I think, will not differ much, on the other hand, there is always the opportunity to fix something in editors, filters.

        Reply

  4. Dmitry Volgograd
    26.05.2020

    Good afternoon! Is it worth it to switch from Nikon D70 to Nikon D90?

    Reply

    • Arkady Shapoval
      26.05.2020

      Yes, in general, the transition is fully justified

      Reply

  5. Dmitry Volgograd
    26.05.2020

    And if you choose between the Nikon D90 and D200? On the "secondary" they are approximately the same.

    Reply

    • Arkady Shapoval
      26.05.2020

      It all depends on the tasks, goals and experience. In general, the D90 will be better. But there are special cases.

      Reply

    • Alexey
      26.05.2020

      D300s will be better.

      Reply

  6. Dmitry Volgograd
    26.05.2020

    I just read from you that the Nikon D200 allows you to shoot on Helios and the like, not only in manual mode. And I have just Helios. On the other hand, in D70 I shoot in manual mode, but ... Of the three frames in focus, one is obtained - as I understand it, the green signal, although it shows that the object is in focus, but in fact not. I take three frames offhand with a difference of about half a meter, but this is not very convenient: you lose time and since the D70 has a very small screen, you can see how the frame turned out only at home on your computer. True, I suspect that it can always be out of focus when using helios. Would you like to know your experience?

    Reply

    • Alexey
      26.05.2020

      not wishing to provoke holy wars, I will say that for manual optics, kenon is much more convenient.

      Reply

      • Arkady Shapoval
        26.05.2020

        All right

        Reply

  7. Dmitry Volgograd
    26.05.2020

    did I understand that worrying that in Nikon D70 or D90 can be shot on "helios" only in manual mode, you should not worry? In those Nikonas, where you can shoot on manual ones in Auto modes, there will be no more sense, will it not help?

    Reply

    • Alexey
      26.05.2020

      The fundamental problem of younger Nikons when shooting on manual optics without a chip is the inability to use the camera’s exposure meter. therefore, the camera mode is only M, and the exposure will have to either be selected by eye, according to the histogram, or use something external. in older Nikons, everything is different, there is the option to select non cpu lense from the menu, specify glass parameters, after which exposure metering will work. a chip on the lens is not needed.

      Reply

      • Alexander
        28.05.2020

        “There is an opportunity to choose non cpu lense from the menu” - you don’t need to choose anything, you just hook the manual glass and take it off, the camera measures light always with all lenses and without a lens too.

        Reply

    • Alexander
      28.05.2020

      On older cameras, only “A” mode will be added. There is not much sense to him, all the same, you often have to make corrections, and you need to focus with your hands, and this is the main inconvenience. So because of one automatic mode, changing the d70 is definitely not worth it. But due to the larger number of pixels or higher sensitivity, it’s completely. If we compare the d90 and d200, then the first one has less noise at high ISO (the ISO 800 is fully operational, and even 1600 can be removed if there are no high requirements for the picture). At d200 max. working ISO a stop lower, but on its side a more beautiful color.

      Reply

  8. Sergei
    08.06.2020

    Hello, tell me if it’s worth switching to this camera with the d3000?

    Reply

    • Michael
      08.06.2020

      Generally yes

      Reply

    • Vlad
      26.06.2020

      Of course worth
      You'll see the difference right away
      I switched from d3100 to d7000
      Taking in my hands the d3100 is now for me a toy uncomfortable in the hand, the viewfinder is not pentaprism, dark, autofocus shit
      In general, take it, you will not regret it

      Reply

  9. Uncle Fedor
    15.07.2020

    Writes: “The quality of the pictures depends very much on the lens”
    Here, a little lower: “Always remember that it is important how to photograph, and not by what means”
    You already somehow oprelitsya one way. Probably more true, this is a tandem of one with the other, and everywhere trending hand in hand, this is cheap PR

    Reply

    • Arkady Shapoval
      15.07.2020

      Does one interfere with the other, or do you disagree with this?

      Reply

    • Roman
      19.07.2020

      There is the quality of photography, but there is image quality. The quality of photography depends on the skills of the photographer - plot, correct exposure, cropping. And the quality of the image depends on the equipment (camera and lens) and is able to decorate a good photo, but it will not stretch the mediocre one. Roughly speaking, it doesn’t matter how much your camera is noisy and how sharp the image angles are on your lens, it's all to a light bulb if you shoot shit.

      Reply

  10. Dmitriy
    19.07.2020

    Good day. If you compare the d90 in the picture with the d3300, which is better? Other parameters are not of interest.

    Reply

    • Arkady Shapoval
      19.07.2020

      Generally D3300

      Reply

      • Dmitriy
        19.07.2020

        So I think so too. I would like to join the d40 with another legend, but we need to take a modern amateur one.
        Thanks for the opinion!

        Reply

    • Alexey
      19.07.2020

      D2Xs is beautiful in the picture, if we remember the old people.

      Reply

      • Dmitriy
        19.07.2020

        In the picture, my first-fame is beautiful. But I'm kakbe about something else.

        Reply

      • Alexey
        19.07.2020

        Paaaazvolte :) If you remember Kenon, then a better picture than single ones and not to find)), coupled with excellent AF and reliability.

        Reply

  11. Firear
    03.08.2020

    Hello, dear amateur photographers.
    I ask for advice: I have Nikoshka D 90. I want to buy this lens with him.
    Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G AF-S ED DX VR Nikkor
    Maybe someone has already tried such a combination, tell me how acceptable this union is? Or should you pay attention to other optics?

    Reply

    • Vol4ara
      08.08.2020

      This combination can be called universal and classic for any Nikon crop. I think it will be more difficult to find someone who has not tried it yet) For everyday, not difficult tasks - quite a good budget union. For a regular zoom, it is good. For more serious tasks in terms of photo quality, you need to look towards fixes.

      Reply

      • Firear
        10.08.2020

        Thank you!
        Is there anything to advise more specifically?

        Reply

      • Ivan
        10.08.2020

        What advice do you need? The lens you specified came as a kit for the camera you specified. This was the most common kit. Earlier, the commentator answered you about the same. You can read the review for this lens, it is on this site.

        Reply

      • Firear
        14.08.2020

        I bought the carcass separately. About the fact that such a lens came in the kit, I know, I just had no experience of shooting with it.
        The council asked to inquire about an alternative in favor of better quality, but at an acceptably reasonable price point.

        Reply

      • Ivan
        14.08.2020

        Lenses similar to 18-105, but slightly more expensive, these are 18-140 and 18-200. The best choice is 17-55 / 2.8, but it's not cheap.

        Reply

      • Firear
        30.08.2020

        Thank you, Ivan!

        Reply

      • Vol4ara
        18.08.2020

        As an inexpensive, everyday fix with a high-quality, sharp picture, I definitely recommend 35 1,8G. This is generally a must have for a crop! For portraits - 85mm. This is if you need not versatility and zoom, but quality and sharpness. In any case, fixes always give a better picture than zooms.
        And Ivan, above, correctly suggested which zooms are better. Hope it helped?)

        Reply

      • Firear
        30.08.2020

        Yes of course ! Very ! Just now, I got a review on YouTube on this topic. They also talked about just such lenses. Well, I will look for a used one, at a reasonable price….

        Reply

  12. Anton
    20.08.2020

    Good day! Can you please tell me if it makes sense now in 2020 to take the D90 as a replacement for my D3000? The budget is limited, and the D90 is offered for a very “tasty” price, but is there any point in taking an old camera, I don't know ... !?

    Reply

    • Pokemon
      20.08.2020

      If a friend suggests, take some test shots.
      The mileage of the D90 is not clear.
      Well, now there are also a lot of fresher D7000s at flea markets, which are also very inexpensive (and 8 years ago the price was from $ 1000 for it).

      Reply

    • Vol4ara
      20.08.2020

      Anton, the question is too superficial .. what is the purpose of changing the camera? What does not suit the same d3000? What do you expect from the exchange? And so, D90 is still very good for a more advanced acquaintance with photography. It is unlikely to give you any increase in picture quality, but in ergonomics, control and training to work with non-automatic modes, it is an excellent and inexpensive option. The review perfectly describes all its advantages. Decide for yourself whether they are needed in your case.

      Reply

  13. Konstantin
    24.08.2020

    Perhaps the most unpleasant moment in the d90 is the lack of adjustment of the back or front focus of the lens in the camera, and since the quality of the lenses is different, this function becomes very important when buying a camera.

    Reply

  14. Vyacheslav
    25.09.2020

    Good afternoon everyone. I bought the d90 from my hands, the camera is excellent, I am very pleased, but there is a question. When shooting on the display, the image is "cold" as under a fluorescent lamp. but the photo turns out to be a “correct” image in those colors that you see with the eye, or in those proportions that the matrix can transmit. actually the question itself: is it a display error? which of the image viewing settings or is this a problem with this model? this effect is especially pronounced in “gray” weather. because of which it is sometimes difficult to understand what is missing for the “correct” shot. I hope someone will tell you.

    Reply

    • Alexey
      25.09.2020

      this is a feature of LCD color reproduction inherent in almost all nikon cameras, on the kenon, on the contrary, almost all LCD cameras show a slightly warmer picture. if you really don't like this, you can ask the SC to correct the WB LCD, or, if your hands grow from the right place, download the service program and do it yourself :)

      Reply

      • Vyacheslav
        25.09.2020

        thanks for the explanation, hands on the locksmith's part =), on "cybernetics" so-so. What is the name of the program? because there is no service center in our city 1000%.

        Reply

      • Alexey
        25.09.2020

        the name will not say anything, an archive with software for a number of old nikon cameras is walking around the network. I can give you a link to it if Arkady permits. well, I do not give any comments on the use of such software))

        Reply

      • Vyacheslav
        30.09.2020

        if possible, give a link to the archive in a personal, so as not to be an advertiser on the forum. and don't break the rules.

        Reply

      • Alexey
        30.09.2020

        where to PHYSICALLY send the link?

        Reply

      • Ivan
        02.10.2020
      • Roman
        25.09.2020

        Canon 5D II is cold, so I don't look at the BB at all. Can I correct it on it? I would raise it a little.

        Reply

      • Roman
        25.09.2020

        More precisely, omitted :)

        Reply

      • Alexey
        25.09.2020

        you can, in the service. it is a common job to color-match the LCD of different cameras of the same client. but you can just wind up the color as you like.

        Reply

      • Ivan
        26.09.2020

        As such, there is no rear display white balance setting in the service program. Here are the settings in this program:

        Reply

      • Alexey
        26.09.2020

        I wrote about BB in order to make it easier for an ordinary user to understand.

        Reply

      • Roman
        26.09.2020

        Well, they call it hue, but in fact it is a white point setting.

        Reply

  15. Vyacheslav
    02.10.2020

    Thanks for the tips Ivan and Alexey, I downloaded the program and I will try it.

    Reply

    • Alexey
      02.10.2020

      1. disable antivirus. 2. disconnect the computer from the Internet.
      and then run the software. and remember to save all data BEFORE trying to change anything.

      Reply

  16. Svetlana
    17.10.2020

    Have you had any experience shooting sports with this camera? Your opinion? Thanks.

    Reply

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