At various times, I used to use several Nikon D90 cameras. In what conditions they were not: I constantly dragged cameras with me in hikes, reinstalled lenses millions of times, in the rain, in the cold and on hot days - but the cameras worked like clockwork. Of course, I understand that good Nikon D90 copies may have come across, but nevertheless, many years of uptime and a run of over 130.000 (one hundred thirty thousand) single copies and over 250.000 (quarter million) second copies give rise to positive reviews only.
To fully understand and understand the camera - you just need read the instructionsIt’s long and boring, but I don’t see another way. The quality of the pictures very much depends on the lens and the methodology of your shooting, as well as image control mode, therefore, to say that the camera shoots better or worse is blasphemy, we can only talk about its ergonomics, technical characteristics and direct work experience. Always remember that important how to take pictures, but not by what means.
And so, the camera belongs to the class of digital mirrors mid-range cameras. It is often said that the Nikon D90 is an advanced amateur camera. Therefore, please note that this is not a professional camera, as they often write on the Internet (especially in online stores), professional cameras - is D300(s) D200, D700, D3(x, s), D4, D800(E) - because you need to understand that the device is more aimed at amateurs than at professionals. Just the main feature of the camera is that the set of functions allows you to use the Nikon D90 no worse than professional equipment, but with some limitations.
The main parameters of Nikon D90, which are worth paying attention to
1. Live View
2. HD video 1280 * 720 24k \ s
3MP CMOS sensor
4. Aluminum-magnesium case with a bunch of buttons
5. Built-in autofocus drive
6. Additional screen
7. 4.5 frames \ second
8. Flash operating in Comand mode and FP mode
9. Lithium-ion battery
10. Matrix cleaning system
11. Bracketing exposure
Now let's go through each item from a practical point of view.
1. Live View. Under Live view “Live View” is implied and the Nikon D90 is a pretty strong point.
First: made for the D90 very large screen (920.000 points - the same as in professional D3, D700) from which you can not tear yourself away. He even knows how to show slide shows to music!
Secondly: very convenient button to switch to live view - just clicked and the incomprehensible digital SLR turned into an ordinary soap box (useful for people who just switched to SLR cameras and just can't figure out what to see through the viewfinder).
Third: this mode allows clearly control focus at any point in your frame. Let’s take a closer look - when sighting you can select any area in the frame with the joystick and zoom it in on a scale of 1 to 1 - that is, select any point for focusing. This mode is indispensable when working with manual (non-autofocus lenses) and a tripod.
True, it takes time to get used to the work of the mirror, which adds unnecessary sounds and clatter at work. When you enable Live View, the mirror and shutter make a click, and when shooting, two clicks. It may seem that the camera is taking extra frames. A huge minus of this mode is that autofocus works very, very slowly, but in video mode it does not work at all.
2. HD video 1280 * 720 24k \ s without autofocus - absolutely no use for a photographer
Why not necessary - yes because who will watch the video without autofocus? Okay, you can still take photos somehow in the manual focus mode, but video with manual focus when the scene changes at the speed of light is a very difficult task. I recommend shooting a video only with a tripod. I shot a video a couple of times with my hands - you can shoot, but again, it’s very, very difficult. Video without auto focus has another camera - Nikon D5000.
The video itself is quite solid, in Motion JPEG format - which means that it “weighs” a lot. I advise you to immediately distill it into any of the popular formats after shooting - save a lot of disk space. Also, I advise you to block the exposure when shooting a video so that there are no tonal differences when changing the composition in the frame. Another serious problem with video is limiting the duration of the clip in 1280 * 720 up to 5 minutes. On the one hand, 5 minutes is enough to create short video collections, but I had to shoot my friend’s performance once, and the 5-minute limit made the process very difficult. Also, after several 5-minute clips, the camera starts shooting clips up to 30 seconds in length and automatically turns off, most likely due to overheating of the sensor. Nikon D90 is the first Nikon camera with the ability to shoot video, therefore, you should not demand more from it. If you need a camera from Nikon, which shoots video well and has auto focus, I advise you to look at the models Nikon D3100, Nikon D5100 и Nikon D7000.
3MP CMOS - just right
And why more? The more pixels - the greater the density and there may be more noise due to the fact that the matrix cell is smaller and smaller - which means that it can catch less light. I advise you to read my article Battle of Megapixels.
The matrix is excellent. Of course, I already see noise at ISO 400, but at ISO 1600 they are still quite tolerant.
When working at high ISOs, I noticed a very important point that noises increase sharply after ISO 2500, that is, something can still be squeezed out at ISO 2500, but then - the quality of the photo decreases greatly. I recommend shooting at verified ISO 200 and not raising ISO above 1600. ISO LO-1 (100) should be turned on only on a bright day, when you need to get some portrait with an open aperture to fit into a shutter speed of 1/4000 s. ISO values Hi1, Hi0.3, Hi0.7 - this is a kind of software wrapping ISO, at such values it is almost impossible to get a low-noise picture.
4. Aluminum-magnesium housing (part)
In the introduction, I wrote that I constantly use, drag, ride with this camera and it feels quite adequately. Aluminum-magnesium alloy (although I did not find such information on the manufacturer’s website, but by weight, it’s not plastic) and one rubber insert, make the camera very practical, well-knocked down and provide excellent weight balance with different lenses. Perhaps for little hands it will be a little bit wrong, but for the serious hand of the photographer it’s just lovely.
On the body is a whole bunch of buttons. In the camera - the more the better. You can get quick access to all the basic functions and not scroll through the huge menu. I configured the programmable button to change the type of focus.
5. Built-in autofocus drive
A panacea for saving money and a panacea for professionals. The Nikon D90 camera has a built-in auto focus motor (screwdriver) for working with lenses marked AF. This allows you to use optics without a built-in focusing system (which means that you can use any autofocus lenses). Usually such optics are cheaper, for example, you can buy Nikon 50mm F1.8D AF for only 150u.e. and feel like a true professional. Also, a huge part of professional optics simply goes without an auto focus motor. For example, there is simply no analogue for the Nikkor 135 DC with a built-in autofocus motor. In more detail about Nikon lens compatibility in my article - Lens difference.
6. Optional monochronous screen.
I recently read on the Internet that the small monochrome display on the D90 - archaism, was very surprised at this. Actually - this is not so, the additional display is a very good ergonomics and saves time, battery power, unnecessary movements. Let me explain - the display is always on top and you don’t need to turn the camera lens down to look at the main display, secondly, it has a very high contrast in the sun (everything is visible), thirdly, it does not eat the battery (even the backlight mode uses a lot more less charge than the main display). In general, with him the camera even looks more impressive. By the way - the backlight mode is turned on by turning the camera power lever to the right. He then returns to its original position. Below is written one of the most serious drawbacks associated with this lever.
7 - 4.5 frames / second
Someone can say, they say, stamps from Kenon are shot at 10 frames per second, the same D3 shoots 8 frames per second, but what can I say, D300 with a battery pack squeezes 8 frames per second. And now the question is - why do you need it? Burst shooting is very rare. 3 frames per second is already quite enough, the rest is only for specific tasks. Therefore, almost 5 frames per second is a pretty strong point. Conduct an experiment - at what speed can you press the camera button in the frame shooting mode? The same 5 times plus or minus will come out. In any case, the Nikon D90 has a higher rate of fire than the new, very expensive professional Nikon D800which can shoot at speeds up to 4 fps.
8. Comand mode flash and FP support
Classics from Nikon. No need to buy expensive flash units or synchronizers - just go to the bracketing \ flash menu and select flash control mode C. Set the channel and group and control external flash units, such as S, S, S, S и S. Also do not forget that you can configure the built-in flash so that it gives only commands and does not take part in the shooting itself.
Then the most interesting - quick sync mode. With external flashes, you can set any shutter speed, up to 1/4000. Those who have not encountered such a problem will not understand, who knows, he will be glad. Few cameras support this mode. Why you need this, you can find, for example, in my article - 'flash in the afternoon '.
9. Rechargeable Li-ion Battery EN-EL3e
Great armor-piercing battery. Also suitable for D700, D200, D300(s) etc. Withstands flash without over 2000 frames. The instructions say that it can provide work for 1200 shots, a third made with the flash - somewhere it is. The number of shots is greatly affected by the type of lens (e.g. VR mode), delay modes of the main display, etc.
10. Matrix cleaning system
A very useful thing. I recommend setting the cleaning when the camera is turned off, since when you turn it on you often need to take a picture right away, and when you turn it off, let it clean itself. I advise you to clean the matrix read here.
11. Bracketing exposure
Bracketing allows you to shoot without fear for the correct exposure. True, this requires additional time, battery wear and fast filling of the memory card. It is under bracketing 4.5 frames per second are useful. I recommend not much use bracketing, it’s better to adjust the camera (especially the amendment exposure) and make one frame in RAW, and then, if anything, hold it out programmatically rather than slam the shutter on expo.
The disadvantages of the Nikon D90:
The strongest minus when working with the camera, I think that the shutdown lever returns strongly - that is, when you turn on the backlight of the secondary screen, the lever moves back to the “ON” position, but its inertia is very strong and it goes on and off the camera (to the “OFF” position), because you need to smoothly move your finger after turning on the backlight of the additional screen. This glitch is associated with very unpleasant stories, when at night at important moments, the camera simply died out after setting the settings on an external display. Also, this switch is pretty shaky, but it still works stably.
Also, after active work during the year, the rubber band, which is located to the right of the display, fell off, it expanded slightly and peeled off. I noticed that the gum covers the indicator of the activity of the memory card, that is, there are fears to push the indicator deep into the camera and damage it. This disease was treated with trimming excess rubber and superglue. This disease got D90 from D200 and from D80. But, of course, I use my D90 camera a lot.
Exposure in 1/4000 second - if you haven’t understood yet, then when shooting with fast lenses starting with aperture of F / 1.8 and lower, you will miss the shutter speed, even at the lowest ISO.
Metering (exposure meter) does not work with non-chip lenses. It would be nothing, but this is just the camera and inferior to professional ones, such as D200 and older, almost any lens can be attached to them and the camera will work in semi-automatic aperture priority mode or in the good old manual mode. This really limits the camera’s operation with fully manual (without processor contacts) lenses, for example, Soviet ones - and you have to set all the settings completely “by eye”. Personally, I would really like this feature, since I am a fan of photographing Soviet (and post-Soviet) optics.
For 3d tracking focus, there are not enough points (focus areas), and indeed, not enough focus points for such a solid camera.
No one wants depth of field view button imaged space. I use it very rarely, for example, in macro photography, but usually in 99% it is not needed. A funny thing that I advise you to check is to raise the flash and press the depth of field button (it’s located below, under the lens mount) and you will see that for a couple of seconds the flash works as a flashlight (using the strobe effect)
I consider one more unnecessary button \ property focus point lock button. It was useful to me only a couple of times, when I very strongly brought the camera to my face and accidentally pressed the joystick, thereby changing the focus point, in other cases, the point retains its position. It would be better instead of it to set the lever for changing the metering (as in older models), and so you have to press the top button near the external display and turn one of the selectors.
Brief comparison with Nikon D80:
D90 is a descendant Nikon D80, which has an increased rate of fire, a different type of sensor (CMOS VS CCD), a central multi selector button is added, there is a Live View function and the ability to record video, and the display is also enlarged. Battery, menu navigation, ergonomics and other important functions remained the same. If you Nikon D80 I do not recommend upgrading the Nikon D90, as the main functions of the cameras are the same.
D300, D300s - These are professional cameras from Nikon, and the amateur D90 is not able to compete with them. IN D300, D300s stronger body excerpt up to 1/8000, a professional camera control interface, high rate of fire and the ability to work with manual lenses, this is where the main differences end. I do not recommend overpaying for D300, D300s unless you have to shoot 1000 frames every day.
A brief comparison of Nikon 90 with D7000:
Fit in the Nikon D90 Camera I think control with infrared remote Nikon ML-L3It costs a penny, and gives a lot of opportunities.
Attention: The final result of the image in the photo very much depends on a large number of factors and the camera plays not the first role in this quantity, therefore, when photographing, remember - important how to take pictures, and do not try hard to find the best camera.
The photos in the gallery below were shot on a budget lens Yongnuo 35mm f / 2 (model YN35mm F2N for Nikon cameras) and shown without treatment. Part of the photos is the conversion of the source RAW files by the original Nikon ViewNX-i utility without any additional adjustments, the other part is the original on-camera JPEG.
More examples of photos, as well as source files, can be found in the reviews:
- YONGNUO LENS YN50mm F1.4N E
- Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-55mm 1: 3.5-5.6GII ED SWM Aspherical
- Nikon N AF-S Nikkor 58mm 1: 1.4G Nano Crystal Coat SWM Aspherical
- YONGNUO 50mm 1: 1.8 (YN50mm F1.8N)
- Tokina VCM-S AT-X PRO SD 70-200 F4 (IF) FX N / AIS
- Nikon AF Nikkor 28mm 1: 2.8 (MKI)
- Tokina AT-X 80-400mm 1: 4.5-5.6 (AT-X 840 AF-II)
- Nikon AF Nikkor 20mm 1: 2.8D
- Tamron PZD Di 28-300mm F / 3.5-6.3 Piezo Drive VC Model A010
- Nikon Zoom-NIKKOR 80-200mm 1: 4.5 (AI, MKII)
- SIGMA ZOOM 28-105mm D 1: 2.8-4 DG
- Nikon AF Nikkor 28-70mm 1: 3.5-4.5 (MKI)
- Sigma 135-400mm 1: 4.5-5.6 D APO
- Tokina SD 24-70 F2.8 (IF) FX AT-X PRO Aspherical
- Nikon AF Micro Nikkor 105mm 1: 2.8 (MKI)
- Tamron 16-300mm F / 3.5-6.3 Di II PZD VC Model B016
- Tokina 107 Fisheye 10-17mm F3.5-4.5 DX AT-X Internal Focus
- INDUSTRAR 22U-1 1: 3,5 F = 50mm P
- LOMO RO501-1 F = 100 1: 2
- Nikon ED AF Nikkor 80-200mm 1: 2.8 (MKI)
- LOMO RO500-1 F = 90 1: 2
- Tokina AT-X PRO AF 28-70mm 1: 2.6-2.8 (Tokina AT-X 270 AF PRO)
- Nikon Lens Series E Zoom 75-150mm 1: 3.5 (MKII)
- Sigma DC 17-70mm 1: 2.8-4.5 MACRO HSM
- Tokina AT-X PRO SD 11-20 F2.8 (IF) DX ASPHERICAL
- SIGMA ZOOM 55-200mm 1: 4-5.6 DC HSM
- TAIR-3 4,5 / 300A
- Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 55-200mm 1: 4-5.6GII ED VR II
- QUANTARAY TECH-10 NF AF MULTI-COATED 1: 4-5.6 f = 75-300mm
- Nikon NIKKOR-SC Auto 1: 1.2 f = 55mm
- Sigma DC 18-50mm 1: 2.8 EX MACRO HSM
- Tamron AF Aspherical 28-80mm 1: 3.5-5.6 177D
- Quantaray 70-300mm 1: 4-5.6 D LDO MACRO for Nikon AF, MACRO (200-300)
- SIGMA ZOOM 28-200mmD 1: 3.8-5.6 UC Aspherical
- Quantaray 70-300mm 1: 4-5.6 D LDO MACRO for Nikon AF
- MC PANCOLAR 1,8 / 50 CARL ZEISS JENA DDR
- YONGNUO 40mm 1: 2.8 (YN40mm F2.8N)
- Sigma 70-300mm D 1: 4-5.6 APO DG
- TOKINA AF 70-210 1: 4-5.6
- Sigma 70-300mm 1: 4-5.6 D DL MACRO SUPER
- Quantaray for Nikon AF 28-300mm 1: 3.5-6.3 LDO Multi-Coated (28-300mmD Ashperical IF)
- SIGMA ZOOM 28-300mm 1: 3.5-6.3 DG MACRO
- YONGNUO LENS YN 14mm F 2.8 N
- Tamron AF Tele-Macro 70-210mm 1: 4-5.6 158DN
- I-26m-U 2,8 / 52
- Sigma Zoom DC 18-200mm 1: 3.5-6.3 II HSM OS
- Yongnuo YN 85mm F1.8 N
- INDUSTRAR 22U-1 1: 3,5 F = 50mm P
- SIGMA ZOOM 18-50mm 1: 2.8 EX DC (D)
- Nikon IX-NIKKOR 60-180mm 1: 4-5.6
- YONGNUO LENS 100mm 1: 2 (YN100mm F2N, for Nikon)
- PROMASTER DIGITAL XR EDO AF Aspherical LD (IF) 18-200mm 1: 3.5-6.3 Macro
- Tamron Di II SP 17-50mm F / 2.8 VC
- MC HELIOS-44M-4 58mm 1: 2
- YONGNUO 35mm 1: 2 (YN35mm F2N)
- Sigma DC 17-70mm 1: 2.8-4.5
- Nikon ED AF-S Nikkor 300mm 1: 4D IF Silent Wave Motor
- Yongnuo YN60mm F2NE MF MACRO
Prices for modern Nikon cameras in popular stores can look at this link.
Video review, retrospective
Here on the site, comments do not require any registration. In the comments, you can ask a question on the topic and you will definitely be answered, and you can also express your opinion, leave your feedback or describe your experience. For the selection of photographic equipment, I recommend E-Catalog. Many little things for the photo can be found on AliExpress.
In general, the Nikon D90 camera is simply lovely, a wide range of functions will allow both a professional and an amateur to work. The speed and quality of the picture is very pleasing.
The material was prepared by Arkady Shapoval. Take a look to the Radozhiva group on Facebook.