Review of the Nikon d90.

At various times, I used to use several Nikon D90 cameras. In what conditions they were not: I constantly dragged cameras with me in hikes, reinstalled lenses millions of times, in the rain, in the cold and on hot days - but the cameras worked like clockwork. Of course, I understand that good Nikon D90 copies may have come across, but nevertheless, many years of uptime and a run of over 130.000 (one hundred thirty thousand) single copies and over 250.000 (quarter million) second copies give rise to positive reviews only.

Review of the Nikon D90. View of the camera itself.

Review of the Nikon D90. View of the camera itself.

To fully understand and understand the camera - you just need read the instructionsIt’s long and boring, but I don’t see another way. The quality of the pictures very much depends on the lens and the methodology of your shooting, as well as image control mode, therefore, to say that the camera shoots better or worse is blasphemy, we can only talk about its ergonomics, technical characteristics and direct work experience. Always remember that important how to take pictures, but not by what means.

Sample photos on Nikon D90

Sample photos on Nikon D90

And so, the camera belongs to the class of digital mirrors mid-range cameras. It is often said that the Nikon D90 is an advanced amateur camera. Therefore, please note that this is not a professional camera, as they often write on the Internet (especially in online stores), professional cameras - is D300(s) D200, D700, D3(x, s), D4, D800(E) - because you need to understand that the device is more aimed at amateurs than at professionals. Just the main feature of the camera is that the set of functions allows you to use the Nikon D90 no worse than professional equipment, but with some limitations.

Sample photo on Nikon D90

Sample photo on Nikon D90

The main parameters of Nikon D90, which are worth paying attention to
1. Live View
2. HD video 1280 * 720 24k \ s
3MP CMOS sensor
4. Aluminum-magnesium case with a bunch of buttons
5. Built-in autofocus drive
6. Additional screen
7. 4.5 frames \ second
8. Flash operating in Comand mode and FP mode
9. Lithium-ion battery
10. Matrix cleaning system
11. Bracketing exposure

Example photo on Nikon D90

Example photo on Nikon D90

Now let's go through each item from a practical point of view.

1. Live View. Under Live view “Live View” is implied and the Nikon D90 is a pretty strong point.
First: made for the D90 very large screen (920.000 points - the same as in professional D3, D700) from which you can not tear yourself away. He even knows how to show slide shows to music!
Secondly: very convenient button to switch to live view - just clicked and the incomprehensible digital SLR turned into an ordinary soap box (useful for people who just switched to SLR cameras and just can't figure out what to see through the viewfinder).
Third: this mode allows clearly control focus at any point in your frame. Let’s take a closer look - when sighting you can select any area in the frame with the joystick and zoom it in on a scale of 1 to 1 - that is, select any point for focusing. This mode is indispensable when working with manual (non-autofocus lenses) and a tripod.
True, it takes time to get used to the work of the mirror, which adds unnecessary sounds and clatter at work. When you enable Live View, the mirror and shutter make a click, and when shooting, two clicks. It may seem that the camera is taking extra frames. A huge minus of this mode is that autofocus works very, very slowly, but in video mode it does not work at all.

Photo on Nikon D90

Photo on Nikon D90

2. HD video 1280 * 720 24k \ s without autofocus - absolutely no use for a photographer
Why not necessary - yes because who will watch the video without autofocus? Okay, you can still take photos somehow in the manual focus mode, but video with manual focus when the scene changes at the speed of light is a very difficult task. I recommend shooting a video only with a tripod. I shot a video a couple of times with my hands - you can shoot, but again, it’s very, very difficult. Video without auto focus has another camera - Nikon D5000.
The video itself is quite solid, in Motion JPEG format - which means that it “weighs” a lot. I advise you to immediately distill it into any of the popular formats after shooting - save a lot of disk space. Also, I advise you to block the exposure when shooting a video so that there are no tonal differences when changing the composition in the frame. Another serious problem with video is limiting the duration of the clip in 1280 * 720 up to 5 minutes. On the one hand, 5 minutes is enough to create short video collections, but I had to shoot my friend’s performance once, and the 5-minute limit made the process very difficult. Also, after several 5-minute clips, the camera starts shooting clips up to 30 seconds in length and automatically turns off, most likely due to overheating of the sensor. Nikon D90 is the first Nikon camera with the ability to shoot video, therefore, you should not demand more from it. If you need a camera from Nikon, which shoots video well and has auto focus, I advise you to look at the models Nikon D3100, Nikon D5100 и Nikon D7000.

Photo on Nikon D90

Photo on the Nikon D90. At high ISO.

3MP CMOS - just right
And why more? The more pixels - the greater the density and there may be more noise due to the fact that the matrix cell is smaller and smaller - which means that it can catch less light. I advise you to read my article Battle of Megapixels.
The matrix is ​​excellent. Of course, I already see noise at ISO 400, but at ISO 1600 they are still quite tolerant.
When working at high ISOs, I noticed a very important point that noises increase sharply after ISO 2500, that is, something can still be squeezed out at ISO 2500, but then - the quality of the photo decreases greatly. I recommend shooting at verified ISO 200 and not raising ISO above 1600. ISO LO-1 (100) should be turned on only on a bright day, when you need to get some portrait with an open aperture to fit into a shutter speed of 1/4000 s. ISO values ​​Hi1, Hi0.3, Hi0.7 - this is a kind of software wrapping ISO, at such values ​​it is almost impossible to get a low-noise picture.

Sample photo on Nikon D90

Sample photo on Nikon D90

4. Aluminum-magnesium housing (part)
In the introduction, I wrote that I constantly use, drag, ride with this camera and it feels quite adequately. Aluminum-magnesium alloy (although I did not find such information on the manufacturer’s website, but by weight, it’s not plastic) and one rubber insert, make the camera very practical, well-knocked down and provide excellent weight balance with different lenses. Perhaps for little hands it will be a little bit wrong, but for the serious hand of the photographer it’s just lovely.
On the body is a whole bunch of buttons. In the camera - the more the better. You can get quick access to all the basic functions and not scroll through the huge menu. I configured the programmable button to change the type of focus.

Wildlife Photo on Nikon D90

Wildlife Photo on Nikon D90

5. Built-in autofocus drive
A panacea for saving money and a panacea for professionals. The Nikon D90 camera has a built-in auto focus motor (screwdriver) for working with lenses marked AF. This allows you to use optics without a built-in focusing system (which means that you can use any autofocus lenses). Usually such optics are cheaper, for example, you can buy Nikon 50mm F1.8D AF for only 150u.e. and feel like a true professional. Also, a huge part of professional optics simply goes without an auto focus motor. For example, there is simply no analogue for the Nikkor 135 DC with a built-in autofocus motor. In more detail about Nikon lens compatibility in my article - Lens difference.

Photo on Nikon D90

Photo on Nikon D90

6. Optional monochronous screen.
I recently read on the Internet that the small monochrome display on the D90 - archaism, was very surprised at this. Actually - this is not so, the additional display is a very good ergonomics and saves time, battery power, unnecessary movements. Let me explain - the display is always on top and you don’t need to turn the camera lens down to look at the main display, secondly, it has a very high contrast in the sun (everything is visible), thirdly, it does not eat the battery (even the backlight mode uses a lot more less charge than the main display). In general, with him the camera even looks more impressive. By the way - the backlight mode is turned on by turning the camera power lever to the right. He then returns to its original position. Below is written one of the most serious drawbacks associated with this lever.

Photo on Nikon D90

Photo on Nikon D90

7 - 4.5 frames / second
Someone can say, they say, stamps from Kenon are shot at 10 frames per second, the same D3 shoots 8 frames per second, but what can I say, D300 with a battery pack squeezes 8 frames per second. And now the question is - why do you need it? Burst shooting is very rare. 3 frames per second is already quite enough, the rest is only for specific tasks. Therefore, almost 5 frames per second is a pretty strong point. Conduct an experiment - at what speed can you press the camera button in the frame shooting mode? The same 5 times plus or minus will come out. In any case, the Nikon D90 has a higher rate of fire than the new, very expensive professional Nikon D800which can shoot at speeds up to 4 fps.

Sample photo on Nikon D90

Sample photo on Nikon D90

8. Comand mode flash and FP support
Classics from Nikon. No need to buy expensive flash units or synchronizers - just go to the bracketing \ flash menu and select flash control mode C. Set the channel and group and control external flash units, such as S, S, S, S и S. Also do not forget that you can configure the built-in flash so that it gives only commands and does not take part in the shooting itself.
Then the most interesting - quick sync mode. With external flashes, you can set any shutter speed, up to 1/4000. Those who have not encountered such a problem will not understand, who knows, he will be glad. Few cameras support this mode. Why you need this, you can find, for example, in my article - 'flash in the afternoon '.

Sample photo on Nikon D90

Sample photo on Nikon D90

9. Rechargeable Li-ion Battery EN-EL3e
Great armor-piercing battery. Also suitable for D700, D200, D300(s) etc. Withstands flash without over 2000 frames. The instructions say that it can provide work for 1200 shots, a third made with the flash - somewhere it is. The number of shots is greatly affected by the type of lens (e.g. VR mode), delay modes of the main display, etc.

Sample photo on Nikon D90

Sample photo on Nikon D90

10. Matrix cleaning system
A very useful thing. I recommend setting the cleaning when the camera is turned off, since when you turn it on you often need to take a picture right away, and when you turn it off, let it clean itself. I advise you to clean the matrix read here.

Sample photo on Nikon D90

Sample photo on Nikon D90

11. Bracketing exposure
Bracketing allows you to shoot without fear for the correct exposure. True, this requires additional time, battery wear and fast filling of the memory card. It is under bracketing 4.5 frames per second are useful. I recommend not much use bracketing, it’s better to adjust the camera (especially the amendment exposure) and make one frame in RAW, and then, if anything, hold it out programmatically rather than slam the shutter on expo.

Nature photo on Nikon D90

Nature photo on Nikon D90

I would like to note a number of huge advantages: wA wide range of functions to improve the picture - noise reduction functions, D-lighting etc.

Nikon D90 photo

Nikon D90 photo

The disadvantages of the Nikon D90:
The strongest minus when working with the camera, I think that the shutdown lever returns strongly - that is, when you turn on the backlight of the secondary screen, the lever moves back to the “ON” position, but its inertia is very strong and it goes on and off the camera (to the “OFF” position), because you need to smoothly move your finger after turning on the backlight of the additional screen. This glitch is associated with very unpleasant stories, when at night at important moments, the camera simply died out after setting the settings on an external display. Also, this switch is pretty shaky, but it still works stably.

Also, after active work during the year, the rubber band, which is located to the right of the display, fell off, it expanded slightly and peeled off. I noticed that the gum covers the indicator of the activity of the memory card, that is, there are fears to push the indicator deep into the camera and damage it. This disease was treated with trimming excess rubber and superglue. This disease got D90 from D200 and from D80. But, of course, I use my D90 camera a lot.

Exposure in 1/4000 second - if you haven’t understood yet, then when shooting with fast lenses starting with aperture of F / 1.8 and lower, you will miss the shutter speed, even at the lowest ISO.

Metering (exposure meter) does not work with non-chip lenses. It would be nothing, but this is just the camera and inferior to professional ones, such as D200 and older, almost any lens can be attached to them and the camera will work in semi-automatic aperture priority mode or in the good old manual mode. This really limits the camera’s operation with fully manual (without processor contacts) lenses, for example, Soviet ones - and you have to set all the settings completely “by eye”. Personally, I would really like this feature, since I am a fan of photographing Soviet (and post-Soviet) optics.

Photo on Nikon D90

Photo on Nikon D90

For 3d tracking focus, there are not enough points (focus areas), and indeed, not enough focus points for such a solid camera.

No one wants depth of field view button imaged space. I use it very rarely, for example, in macro photography, but usually in 99% it is not needed. A funny thing that I advise you to check is to raise the flash and press the depth of field button (it’s located below, under the lens mount) and you will see that for a couple of seconds the flash works as a flashlight (using the strobe effect)

I consider one more unnecessary button \ property focus point lock button. It was useful to me only a couple of times, when I very strongly brought the camera to my face and accidentally pressed the joystick, thereby changing the focus point, in other cases, the point retains its position. It would be better instead of it to set the lever for changing the metering (as in older models), and so you have to press the top button near the external display and turn one of the selectors.

Photo at Nikon D90

Photo at Nikon D90

Brief comparison with Nikon D80:

D90 is a descendant Nikon D80, which has an increased rate of fire, a different type of sensor (CMOS VS CCD), a central multi selector button is added, there is a Live View function and the ability to record video, and the display is also enlarged. Battery, menu navigation, ergonomics and other important functions remained the same. If you Nikon D80 I do not recommend upgrading the Nikon D90, as the main functions of the cameras are the same.

A brief comparison of Nikon 90 with D300, D300s:

D300, D300s - These are professional cameras from Nikon, and the amateur D90 is not able to compete with them. IN D300, D300s stronger body excerpt up to 1/8000, a professional camera control interface, high rate of fire and the ability to work with manual lenses, this is where the main differences end. I do not recommend overpaying for D300, D300s unless you have to shoot 1000 frames every day.

A brief comparison of Nikon 90 with D7000:

D7000 surpasses even the Nikon D300 in a number of parameters, D300s, and especially Nikon D90, because as an upgrade I recommend only Nikon D7000 or already ff Nikon D700, D600, D800.

Photo at Nikon D90

Photo at Nikon D90

Fit in the Nikon D90 Camera I think control with infrared remote Nikon ML-L3It costs a penny, and gives a lot of opportunities.

Attention: The final result of the image in the photo very much depends on a large number of factors and the camera plays not the first role in this quantity, therefore, when photographing, remember - important how to take pictures, and do not try hard to find the best camera.

Sample Photos

The photos in the gallery below were shot on a budget lens Yongnuo 35mm f / 2 (model YN35mm F2N for Nikon cameras) and shown without treatment. Part of the photos is the conversion of the source RAW files by the original Nikon ViewNX-i utility without any additional adjustments, the other part is the original on-camera JPEG.

Download source files in format JPEG can at this link (114 files in the '.JPG' format, 735 MB).

More examples of photos, as well as source files, can be found in the reviews:

  1. YONGNUO LENS YN50mm F1.4N E
  2. Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-55mm 1: 3.5-5.6GII ED SWM Aspherical
  3. Nikon N AF-S Nikkor 58mm 1: 1.4G Nano Crystal Coat SWM Aspherical
  4. YONGNUO 50mm 1: 1.8 (YN50mm F1.8N)
  5. Tokina VCM-S AT-X PRO SD 70-200 F4 (IF) FX N / AIS
  6. Nikon AF Nikkor 28mm 1: 2.8 (MKI)
  7. Tokina AT-X 80-400mm 1: 4.5-5.6 (AT-X 840 AF-II)
  8. Nikon AF Nikkor 20mm 1: 2.8D
  9. Tamron PZD Di 28-300mm F / 3.5-6.3 Piezo Drive VC Model A010
  10. Nikon Zoom-NIKKOR 80-200mm 1: 4.5 (AI, MKII)
  11. SIGMA ZOOM 28-105mm D 1: 2.8-4 DG
  12. Nikon AF Nikkor 28-70mm 1: 3.5-4.5 (MKI)
  13. Sigma 135-400mm 1: 4.5-5.6 D APO
  14. Tokina SD 24-70 F2.8 (IF) FX AT-X PRO Aspherical
  15. Nikon AF Micro Nikkor 105mm 1: 2.8 (MKI)
  16. Tamron 16-300mm F / 3.5-6.3 Di II PZD VC Model B016
  17. Tokina 107 Fisheye 10-17mm F3.5-4.5 DX AT-X Internal Focus
  18. INDUSTRAR 22U-1 1: 3,5 F = 50mm P
  19. LOMO RO501-1 F = 100 1: 2
  20. Nikon ED AF Nikkor 80-200mm 1: 2.8 (MKI)
  21. LOMO RO500-1 F = 90 1: 2
  22. Tokina AT-X PRO AF 28-70mm 1: 2.6-2.8 (Tokina AT-X 270 AF PRO)
  23. Nikon Lens Series E Zoom 75-150mm 1: 3.5 (MKII)
  24. Sigma DC 17-70mm 1: 2.8-4.5 MACRO HSM
  25. Tokina AT-X PRO SD 11-20 F2.8 (IF) DX ASPHERICAL
  26. SIGMA ZOOM 55-200mm 1: 4-5.6 DC HSM
  27. TAIR-3 4,5 / 300A
  28. Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 55-200mm 1: 4-5.6GII ED VR II
  29. QUANTARAY TECH-10 NF AF MULTI-COATED 1: 4-5.6 f = 75-300mm
  30. Nikon NIKKOR-SC Auto 1: 1.2 f = 55mm
  31. Sigma DC 18-50mm 1: 2.8 EX MACRO HSM
  32. Tamron AF Aspherical 28-80mm 1: 3.5-5.6 177D
  33. Quantaray 70-300mm 1: 4-5.6 D LDO MACRO for Nikon AF, MACRO (200-300)
  34. SIGMA ZOOM 28-200mmD 1: 3.8-5.6 UC Aspherical
  35. Quantaray 70-300mm 1: 4-5.6 D LDO MACRO for Nikon AF
  36. MC PANCOLAR 1,8 / 50 CARL ZEISS JENA DDR
  37. YONGNUO 40mm 1: 2.8 (YN40mm F2.8N)
  38. Sigma 70-300mm D 1: 4-5.6 APO DG
  39. TOKINA AF 70-210 1: 4-5.6
  40. Sigma 70-300mm 1: 4-5.6 D DL MACRO SUPER
  41. Quantaray for Nikon AF 28-300mm 1: 3.5-6.3 LDO Multi-Coated (28-300mmD Ashperical IF)
  42. SIGMA ZOOM 28-300mm 1: 3.5-6.3 DG MACRO
  43. YONGNUO LENS YN 14mm F 2.8 N
  44. Tamron AF Tele-Macro 70-210mm 1: 4-5.6 158DN
  45. I-26m-U 2,8 / 52
  46. Sigma Zoom DC 18-200mm 1: 3.5-6.3 II HSM OS
  47. Yongnuo YN 85mm F1.8 N
  48. INDUSTRAR 22U-1 1: 3,5 F = 50mm P
  49. SIGMA ZOOM 18-50mm 1: 2.8 EX DC (D)
  50. Nikon IX-NIKKOR 60-180mm 1: 4-5.6
  51. YONGNUO LENS 100mm 1: 2 (YN100mm F2N, for Nikon)
  52. PROMASTER DIGITAL XR EDO AF Aspherical LD ​​(IF) 18-200mm 1: 3.5-6.3 Macro
  53. Tamron Di II SP 17-50mm F / 2.8 VC
  54. MC HELIOS-44M-4 58mm 1: 2
  55. YONGNUO 35mm 1: 2 (YN35mm F2N)
  56. Sigma DC 17-70mm 1: 2.8-4.5
  57. Nikon ED AF-S Nikkor 300mm 1: 4D IF Silent Wave Motor
  58. Yongnuo YN60mm F2NE MF MACRO

Prices for modern Nikon cameras in popular stores can look at this link.

Video review, retrospective

Here on the site comments do not require registration. In the comments, you can ask a question on the topic and they will answer you, as well as you can express your opinion or describe your experience. For the selection of photographic equipment, I recommend large catalogs, for example E-Catalog. Many little things for the photo can be found on AliExpress.

Conclusions:

In general, the Nikon D90 camera is simply lovely, a wide range of functions will allow both a professional and an amateur to work. The speed and quality of the picture is very pleasing.

Material prepared by Arkady Shapoval. Do not forget subscribe to my instagram.

Add a comment:

Comments: 1 240, on the topic: Review of the Nikon d90. Reviews about Nikon D90 from Radozhiva

  • Alexander

    Arkady (or maybe someone else) please tell me how to reduce noise on the D90? I got a very noisy camera - it’s already impossible to shoot at 800. For the sake of completeness, I’ll add that you mainly shoot at a shutter speed of 250, 125, or even 60. ISO is constantly worth 200, but there is a lot of noise on it.
    And maybe at the same time someone will tell. Is it technically feasible in the SIGMA 150-500 / 5-6,3 lens to change the sharpness from one end to the other. It means that at the minimum focal lens it gives very good sharpness, but at maximum the pictures (and their 95%) are not very sharp.

    • Arkady Shapoval

      disable ADL, enable high ISO noise reduction
      You won’t do anything with Sigma

    • BB

      Without a tripod on the FR 500mm and a shutter speed of 1/250, 1/125, and even more so 1/60 it is very easy to get a “blur” from the camera’s movement, maybe this is the reason for the blurry photos?

    • Vladisir

      To reduce noise in the pictures, I was helped by a Chinese lens with Ali Yangnou50 with aperture 1.8.

  • Alexander

    Thanks! ADL has been disabled for a long time, and for pod.shum for high. ISO used the middle version of the three (HIGH-NORM-LOW). Since, it seems, with my lens, HIGH smears the image even more.
    And what about the setting of sharpness in the camera in the case of my lens? I crop almost all the pictures, and these are mostly birds and other animals and sharpness, when I shot in JPEG, I set it to zero. Then sharpening in the editor. It seemed better to me. Or is it possible to increase the sharpness in the camera by switching from RAW to JPEG? And yes! As I understand it in RAW, these settings do not work - only in JPEG. Or is it not so?
    Thank you in advance for your response!

    • B. R. P.

      For RAW they do not work.

    • Michael

      It’s not worth going over - chamber “improvers” are rather primitive.

  • Oleg

    Good evening, Arkady! I would like to clarify one point. Are D90 and D300s matrices comparable in noise? As I understand it, both cameras relate to approximately the same time of publication. Thanks!

    • Arkady Shapoval

      Yes, they are very similar in noise. D90 a little noise is a little less. In fact, the d300s and d90 have the same sensor.

      • Oleg

        Thank you very much for your reply! And what about the D7000? How “small pixel” affects the noise of the matrix, if you compare these two generations - D90 and D7000? I ask myself this question, because I have a D90, I like the device, but I'm interested in shooting birds, where there are problems with a lack of light, and you can’t shoot up more than 400 without compromising the quality of the picture. I don’t want to switch to FX. So I’m thinking, does it make sense to upgrade the camera to the 7000th version, will there be a gain in the sensitivity of the matrix or thoughts in vain?

        • Arkady Shapoval

          Yes, there will be a win, the d7000 makes less noise. But a significant improvement already with the d7500 or with a full frame

          • Oleg

            Thank you Arkady! Multi-pixel cameras are confused not so much with the heavy weight of images, but with the doubt that their matrices will not allow my optics (I shoot on Sigma 100-300 f / 4 EX DG HSM in conjunction with Sigma 1.4x converter, in addition, there is Tokina 11 -16 / 2.8, Nikkor 28-105, bought, by the way, thanks to reading your material, for which special thanks!). And the crop camera is happy, thanks to which I get 630 mm on the sigma at the long end with a converter, which is a lot.
            In this case, I will not rush, maybe the megapixel race will someday stop and the company will give out something acceptable for my interests)).
            Thank you for your work! Interesting reviews for the joy of us lovers!

            • Pokemon

              Quite the contrary - you are afraid that the existing lenses will not pull the small-pixel matrix, they will not be able to resolve it.

              • Oleg

                That's right))) put it wrong

            • us6ibd

              There are test tables to determine the resolution of the lenses in the lines. They consist of different sections with groups of lines of different thicknesses and filling densities.
              We remove the table and ... through a 20x magnifier we consider the negative, determining to what extent these lines are distinguishable. At least it’s written in all methods.
              So, the technique is not suitable for digital devices, because we rest on pixels, which are larger in size than the pairs of lines in the table in the group corresponding to the resolution of even 20 ,,, 25 lines. Test on D610 (24MP)
              Therefore, even the most budget lenses to implement their resolution in the lines will require matrices of at least 100 megapixels. And it will not be soon. And there is no special need.
              Conclusion (IMHO): any budget lens is superior in resolution to any existing digital matrix.
              For a working ISO, see the DxoMark website. For FF, ISO2900-3000 is a good indicator. All Nikon FFs provide this. At Canon - only starting with the 5D Mark IV.
              On the D80 I never shot on ISOs above 200. 400 was already enraged because of the noise.
              On the D610 I can use 3200.

              • Michael

                Pixels are just smaller in size. For the FF 24 megapixels, this is about 90 lines / mm - the interpolation is still about a third. As a result, 60 lines / mm

        • Neustrdm

          Compared D7000 and D5000 (same matrix as on D90)
          The D7000 makes less noise, about half a foot from the force, so it's not a panacea.

          • Oleg

            Thanks! I agree with you, really, not a panacea

        • BB

          the d7000 has a working ISO about half a stop higher than the D90; the D7100 has another half stop. On the D7100 I try not to use Iso above 2500.
          Regarding the small pixel (on the D7100): with 18-105, 18-140, 70-300G lenses you can get very close to pixel-by-pixel sharpness, with fixes (I actively used Nikkor 50 / 1.4, Yongnuo 35/2, Yu-37p) - and even more so. I did not feel any problems with the 16MP crop matrix. True, do not forget about the problem of micro-grease, with 24 megapixels it is easy to get micro-grease without stabilization: the shutter speed that I recommend - in the region of 1 / (2 * FR) - from my personal experience received blurry pictures at 140mm and 1/160.

          • Oleg

            Thanks a lot! The fact of the matter is that this micro-lubrication confuses me on multi-pixel cameras, my optics are unstabilized (a wide-angle lens does not count). And I do not need 24 megapixels at all (do not print posters!).
            The D7100 camera seemed interesting in that you can additionally crop the matrix up to 1.3x if you shoot with a telephoto lens.
            T.O. I leave myself my own D90 and do not bother)). I looked at the D300s at one time, but now I don’t see the point in it for my needs.

            • BB

              more pixels - more possibilities to sprinkle :-)
              × 1.3 I also sometimes use it when the zoom is not enough, it remains on the order of 12 megapixels): you can, of course, crop it later, but it's overweight. And the rate of fire is added and the buffer is increased.
              My opinion is that switching from d90 to D7100 means you don’t lose anything (from what D90 can do), you get extra. buns (AF, ISO, resolution, control) and better color.

              • Oleg

                Thank you!)) I'll think about what you said. Of course, I was more interested in the ISO problem and the possibility of this feature (D7100) “features” x1.3. The color, I think, will not differ much, on the other hand, there is always the opportunity to fix something in editors, filters.

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