I've been asked to review the Nikon D50 for a long time. Huge thanks to Denis K. for providing the Nikon D50 body.
Nikon D50 body review
The Nikon D50 is a very old camera, released back in early 2005. The camera featured in this review is over eight years old, which is a long time in digital camera history. The Nikon D50 marks a very interesting milestone in camera design – it was the first and last Nikon entry-level camera (as opposed to its advanced entry-level cameras) to feature a monochrome display and a focus motor. Subsequently, the entire line of entry-level cameras, from the Nikon D50's successor, the Nikon D40 , to the Nikon D5200 , lacked a monochrome display and a focus motor. It would have been great if the Nikon D40 had removed only the display but retained the focus motor, so that the entry-level Nikon camera line would have been fully compatible with all autofocus lenses.
Shadows in the forest. Sample photo taken with a Nikon D50. White balance set to 'Shadow'.
If you're wondering why the Nikon D50 isn't considered an advanced amateur camera , it's simple: it's limited in features. First and foremost, the Nikon D50 lacks an additional selector—the dial under the index finger that controls aperture. It also lacks depth-of-field preview buttons, an FN button, a backlit monochrome display, and a protective cover for the main display. Of course, the Nikon D50 lacks useful flash modes, such as remote control for external flashes and high-speed sync . Overall, the Nikon D50 is a cross between the Nikon D70 and Nikon D40.
Example photo at D50
The Nikon D50 uses ISO from 200 to 1600. While the Nikon D50 can use Auto ISO , the camera menu doesn't allow you to set the maximum ISO value for this function , and the fastest shutter speed you can set in the Auto ISO menu is only 1/125 second. You can manually set only four ISO values : 200, 400, 800, and 1600. The old Nikon D50 doesn't perform the best at high ISO values. I'll add that it's a shame that the Nikon D50 and Nikon D40 , which can't use ISO 100, have a minimum shutter speed of 1/4000 second. This small detail makes it difficult to work with fast lenses in good lighting. But the minimum flash sync speed is 1/500 sec – this is a very good feature of Nikon D50, D40 , D70 , D70s cameras.
Wild grapes. Example photo on Nikon D50
The Nikon D50 uses a 6 MP sensor, allowing it to capture images up to 3008 x 2000 pixels. The " large " pixels of older, first-generation Nikon cameras have their own unique charm. Nikon actually released several cameras based on the sensor found in the Nikon D50: the Nikon D70 , D70s , D40 , and D50. It's worth noting that the imaging software used in these cameras differs, so they may produce slightly different images, even with identical menu settings. However, in my experience, the image quality from these cameras is virtually identical. These cameras can now be found used for very modest prices. The Nikon D100 , while having the same 6 MP, uses a slightly different imaging sensor (see the Nikon D100 review for details ).
Under cover. Example photo on Nikon D50
The Nikon D50 and Nikon D40 are Nikon's slowest digital zoom cameras, capable of shooting at a maximum of 2.5 frames per second. This speed has never been a problem for me. However, the camera's frame buffer is small:
- 4 RAW pictures with the shutdown function turned off, slow shutter noise reduction
- 3 RAW images with slow shutter noise reduction enabled
- 9 JPEG images with slow shutter noise reduction turned off
- 7 JPEG image with long exposure noise reduction enabled
- 4 RAW + JPEG shots with long exposure noise reduction turned off
- 3 RAW + JPEG shots with slow shutter noise reduction enabled
- 49 frames in format JPEG Basic s
- in demo mode (without a memory card) 40 photos are always placed, which is typical for many Nikon cameras (isn't it strange?).
The Nikon D50's frame buffer is virtually identical to that of the D70 , D70s , D100 , and D40. Consequently, the Nikon D50 has practically the lowest performance of all Nikon DSCs.
Example photo on the Nikon D50. Spider on the web.
The Nikon D50 was the first camera to feature a 420-pixel RGB sensor for exposure metering . This same sensor was later used in a large number of Nikon cameras. You can find a list in the section on Nikon camera exposure metering methods . The amateur Nikon D50 cannot use semi-automatic modes with older, non-chip ( manual ) lenses; it only supports 'M' mode. The focusing system is the same as that of the Nikon D70 , D70s , and D100 , based on the Multi-CAM 900 module . The Nikon D50's 5-point focusing system is much more convenient than the 3-point system of the Nikon D40, D60 , and D40x.
Autumn is not only weddings :) Sample photo on Nikon D50
Important notes on the Nikon D50:
- The Nikon D50 can use batteries from Nikon D100, D70, D70s, D80, D90, D200, D700, D300, D300sbut not vice versa.
- The camera has no image enhancement features such as A-Dlighting, aberration control, distortion control, vignetting control, HDR, etc. This is a problem for shooters in JPEG format. Of course, there is no video recording in such an old camera. I am writing about video shooting, since now many people are sure that if you have a SLR camera in your hands, then it should not just shoot video, but at least play guitar and download movies :)
- The central joystick of the camera does not have a central 'OK' button. The same inconvenience is observed in Nikon D80, D70, D70s.
- To switch between AF-S, AF-A и AF-C You need to pick your menu.
- The camera cannot shoot in RAW + JPEG Fine mode, but only RAW + JPEG Basic. Nikon D40, D70 have the same sore, D70s.
- Unlike Nikon D100, D70, D70s, the Nikon D50 has a Russian-language menu.
- Nikon D50 supports only cards SD up to 2 GB (SD 1.0). To write this review I had to buy a 2GB card :(
- The camera has a function bracketing exposure.
- RAW files do not have compression settings and only support 12-bit color depthwhile RAW is stored in compressed form.
- The camera can be controlled remotely using a simple remote control Nikon ML-L3.
- You can find the Nikon D50 in a silver case.
- In focus mode AF-C the camera is in focus priority and you can take a picture at any time only in manual focus mode.
- The Nikon D50 uses a 2-inch 130.000-pixel display, the same as the Nikon D70s. The display is really small and not suitable for viewing the footage.
- The camera from this view was made in Thailand. The build is not bad. First-generation cameras last a very long time and sometimes even 'unkillable'.
Color rendering. Example photo on Nikon D50
Sample Photos
Sample photos on Nikon D50
Sample photos on Nikon D50
Sample photos on Nikon D50
You can download the original photos from this link.
More examples of photos on the Nikon D50 can be found in the lens overview:
- Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-200mm 1: 3.5-5.6GII ED SWM VR IF Aspherical
- Nikon AF-S Nikkor 85mm 1: 1.8G IF SWM
Personal experience
The camera often has serious white balance issues. When I was looking for a simple travel camera that I could use in any conditions, I settled on the Nikon D40 for its light weight, 'normal' display, and support for SDHC memory cards. A single 32GB SDHC card lasted me more than two weeks of travel with the Nikon D40. The Nikon D50, however, doesn't support larger memory cards , has a small display, and is heavier than the D40. Still, the Nikon D50 is a very nice camera. You can buy one for just $150-$200 these days, and for another $100 you can get a Nikon 50mm f/1.8D AF Nikkor and enjoy shooting to your heart's content. Because older cameras like the Nikon D50 have very limited functionality and few of the mind-blowing settings common to modern digital cameras, they're a joy to use. When shooting, you pay more attention to the photo itself than to the camera settings.
In the woods. Example photo on Nikon D50
The Nikon D50 is a dated camera with very limited functionality. Its only highlights are its focusing motor and the secondary display with quick adjustments to some settings. A serious drawback is its small display and limited ISO range. Of course, there's no point in expecting more from the old Nikon D50. In any case, even with the Nikon D50, you can get excellent photos—the main thing is to want to take photos . I recommend checking out our recommendations for buying an amateur Nikon camera.
An Accurate List of All Nikon DX Nikkor Lenses for DSLR Cameras
Fixes
- Nikon DX AF Fisheye Nikkor 10.5 mm 1: 2.8G ED GOLD [AMAZON]
- Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 35 mm 1:1.8G SWM Aspherical [AMAZON]
- Nikon DXAF-S Microphone Nikkor 40 mm 1:2.8G SWM Micro 1:1 [AMAZON]
- Nikon DXAF-S Microphone Nikkor 85 mm 1: 3.5G ED VR SWM IF Micro 1:1 [AMAZON]
Wide angle
- Nikon DX AF-P Nikkor 10-20mm 1: 4.5-5.6G VR [AMAZON]
- Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 10-24mm 1: 3.5-4.5G ED SWM IF Aspherical [AMAZON]
- Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 12-24mm 1:4G ED SWM IF Aspherical GOLD [AMAZON]
Universal
- Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 16-80mm 1:2.8-4E N ED VR SWM IF Aspherical GOLD [AMAZON]
- Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 16-85mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED SWM VR IF Aspherical [AMAZON]
- Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 17-55mm 1:2.8G ED SWM IF Aspherical GOLD [AMAZON]
- Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-55mm 1:3.5-5.6G ED SWM Aspherical [AMAZON]
- Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-55mm 1:3.5-5.6GII ED SWM Aspherical [AMAZON]
- Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-55mm 1: 3.5-5.6G SWM VR aspherical [AMAZON]
- Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-55mm 1: 3.5-5.6GII VR II [AMAZON]
- Nikon DX AF-P Nikkor 18-55mm 1: 3.5-5.6G [AMAZON]
- Nikon DX AF-P Nikkor 18-55mm 1: 3.5-5.6G VR [AMAZON]
- Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-70mm 1: 3.5-4.5G ED SWM IF Aspherical [AMAZON]
- Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-105mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED SWM VR IF Aspherical [AMAZON]
- Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-135mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED SWM IF Aspherical [AMAZON]
- Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-140mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED SWM VR IF Aspherical [AMAZON]
- Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-200mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED SWM VR IF Aspherical [AMAZON]
- Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-200mm 1: 3.5-5.6GII ED SWM VR IF Aspherical [AMAZON]
- Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-300mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED SWM VR IF Aspherical [AMAZON]
- Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-300mm 1: 3.5-6.3GED SWM VR IF Aspherical [AMAZON]
Televisions
- Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 55-200mm 1: 4-5.6G ED SWM [AMAZON]
- Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 55-200mm 1: 4-5.6G ED VR IF SWM [AMAZON]
- Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 55-200mm 1: 4-5.6GII ED VR II [AMAZON]
- Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 55-300mm 1: 4.5-5.6G ED VR SWM HRI [AMAZON]
- Nikon DX AF-P Nikkor 70-300mm 1: 4.5-6.3G ed [AMAZON]
- Nikon DX AF-P Nikkor 70-300mm 1: 4.5-6.3G ed VR [AMAZON]
Exact list of all Nikon F DX cameras:
- D1, D1h, D1x, D2h, D2x, D2hs, D2xs
- D100, D200, D300, D300s, D500
- D70, D70s D80, D90
- D7000, D7100, D7200, D7500
- D50, D40, D40x, D60
- D3000, D3100, D3200, D3300, D3400, D3500
- D5000, D5100, D5200, D5300, D5500, D5600
- + Fujifilm FinePix S1 Pro, S2 Pro, S3 Pro/S3 Pro UVIR, S5 Pro/IS Pro
- Basic information on the Nikon system (lenses, cameras, compatibility, a lot of information).
- Nikon camera selection (models, recommendations, discussion)
- All Nikon digital cameras with interchangeable lenses. Their types and dates of announcements. Camera designations s, h, x, e, a.
- Methods and modules for metering Nikon cameras.
- Processors of Nikon cameras. Performance.
- Focusing systems for Nikon cameras.
- Sensors of Nikon cameras (who produces, which models are used)
- Which external flash to choose for Nikon cameras?
- Other articles on Nikon / Nikkor cameras and lenses.
This material was prepared by Arkady Shapoval . The greatest support for the site is if you use links on this site, such as Amazon , when purchasing anything . It costs you nothing, but for this site, and therefore for my family, it's the main source of support.
I will sell Nikon D50 complete with a Nikon AF lens Nikkor 28-80mm F 3.3 - 5.6 G (MK ІІІ), charging and 2 batteries. Mileage 24 thousand frames. Price: 2000 UAH per set. Phone 0681306220. Ukraine.
Have you sold it? Tsіkavit.
I have a photocamera, the same, for sale, please call 0501576009
My first DSLR, I bought it as soon as it came out. I still use it, she is already 13 years old, it works perfectly. Just with the above polytype. Gives a very sharp and characteristic only of these devices picture. For travel, the quality is excellent and the device is not a pity, unlike my Canon 7D. Weight is also acceptable - 750g with 1.8D half
Thanks Arkady. I have SHE - sweetheart. And you described everything correctly. I have a question: which lens 18-140, 18-200 is better for her? Native or Sigma?
Both are suitable, native or non-native - a matter of taste. I like Sigma 18-250
Thank you Arkady, take a look at your advice.
There is a choice between d50 and d70s.
I already had a D50 (the shutter died, sold for parts).
And now I'm thinking of buying d70s because pentaprism will be better than a penta mirror, there is a display backlight (it turned out to be a very important thing) and two wheels, I don't look at d80 because the picture there is worse (too noisy and not as sharp as with 6 megapixels, but I interpolate and I can myself ...).
I look at different sites on camera comparisons and one moment I am very worried: namely, Color Depth 20.9 vs 20.4, Dynamic Range 10.8 vs 10.3, Low Light ISO 560 vs 529 in favor of the d50.
The question is - I take pictures only as a picture and squeeze all the juices from the camera in terms of the picture, will I see a loss in quality? or rather so - how much loss in quality and noise will be? (at d50 I shot very often at 800 iso and was very pleased with the picture)
I have both, and 50 and 70. I can’t definitely say which one is better, I like both. If you twist the ravine, then take D70, it is noticeably more advanced and the picture is slightly different for the better, it seems to me if it's equal. And more settings. The menu is in English at D70, but it’s easy to figure it out. Exposure to 8000 is. Grip at d70 is better. D70 is faster.
I did not notice the difference in ovi between them, about the same. The second wheel, yes, is convenient. You will not see the loss of quality in the picture. I do not know what is there in the tests, but the picture with d70 is richer, the skin tone is slightly better - d50 reddens more.
Everything is done through Capture NX2; white balance is easy to adjust and not only
Regarding cards up to 2GB. On d70 before the firmware update I saw cards up to 2GB, after it became normal. Probably also at d50
D70 initially knows how to work with cards larger than 4GB, it won’t work with D50, it has a different format for memory cards
I still have a D50 in working order with an 18-105 lens and a 50 1,8D portrait lens, and sometimes I photograph with it. So, in the 2000s I bought 2 4 GB SD cards for her, namely SD, not SDHC. Larger cards were only SDHC, which are not supported in the D50.
Hello Arkady! I want to buy myself a 6 megapixel miracle! I just want to))
In your opinion, d50 or d70s?
D40 (if there is afs optics), d70s (if there is optics for a screwdriver)
Thank you very much!
Arkady, why D40 and not D50? After all, that's how the question was asked?
The color rendition of the device is very strange. I mean, very inaccurate. The color imbalance is terrible. It's not even a bad car bb, although it is too. There is some kind of wild color profile. The green color rushing on everything is the auto bb jamb, the blue channel is oversaturated - the profile jamb. The only thing that can be done is to forget about the camera and shoot only as a rav. At the same time, except for the native converter, I will not advise anything - in the native one you can quickly fix the bb and jambs with a blue channel, and in the ado camera it is equal - only time to kill - the result is many times worse. More or less true colors are obtained using the “standard” profile in NX and shifting the hue to the right + 3 °, and increasing the brightness of the blue while decreasing its saturation.
That's all I wanted to say.
Sergey, there seems to be something like color mode i, ii, iii.
By default, active iii, with a strong imbalance in color and with preset saturation.
Switch to i mode, the color will be better.
Ii mode is adobe rgb, which is a cross between i and ii.
Yes, I know about all these modes. I always take off in rav because of an inadequate auto bb. Then I set everything up in NX. But it still does not give the result as I would like. The color of the camera is specific whatever one may say. Own. For an amateur. Blue is oversaturated, red is often orange, green is only warm - emerald is cold - a big problem. But what he says - the author gave examples. Nice but not natural color rendition. For comparison, you can see photos of kenon 20 d and 350 d. Heaven and earth in color accuracy.
When I took the color I didn't think at all. Just before that there was a soap dish kenon a 700 - such a g that it was disgusting to kenon. Well, I took d 50. At first, when I felt the difference with the soap dish, I was shocked by the quality of the photo. In Photoshop, the raves were twisted and twisted. But gradually I began to notice that the colors are not natural at all, and it is much more difficult to get natural colors than to make decorations. Well, when I started to figure it out, I realized that for the natural color it was not for Nikon, but for Kenon it was necessary, even though the soap dish from the Kenon was shit .. In general, I saw the jpeg from the camera Kenon 350, 30d - that's the exact color there - photo as alive. Nikon d 50 is an entry-level camera - as for children who love everything bright and rich.
Sergei, you are right, but the “gurus” of the local spill will troll you now. Any donations and other audiences will prove to you that all the ravs of all brands are the same and getting the desired color from the rav is like two fingers on the asphalt))
And if it doesn’t work out then you don’t know how to process it. ))))
But seriously, you voiced the obvious facts and reasons for leaving Nikon for those who are looking for a good color and not coloring.
It is unlikely that anyone will seriously pick a rav with d50 :) at 6mp these days. Yes, and it is believed that at the time of the ssd, Nikon's color was normal, but deteriorated with the arrival of kMos. But, of course, you can't hide the “beautiful” color from competitors, and time and the market put everything in its place.
I remember with horror dancing with a tambourine when I tried to pull out the normal color with the d7000 and d800. Searching for developers, working with curves, etc.
And how easy it is to get great color on kenon, two clicks.
Yes, af is worse, the specs on the bouyage are worse, the assembly is worse. But the color covers everything.
In general, what anyone needs.
Sergey says: “d 50 is an entry-level camera - as for children who love everything bright and rich.” And d200 is also for children? And the color is the same. Yes, the color is not real - probably invented by the then engineers for beauty, and this beauty, IMHO, is often there in favorable light. Especially for the so-called. skinton. Kmoses nikon try to convey the colors as they are, and even if it works, you don't get excited. Unlike, I repeat, from ssd. About canon, alas, I do not know.
D200 also gives out wild colors.
If you compare for example d5100 and d200, then kmos will be definitely more beautiful.
Here I laid out the pairs and albums for Fuji ghoul and d5100, so most chose d5100 for smooth tones and beautiful color, sincerely believing that this is a praised gibberish! )))
IMHO, blind testing is the most objective criterion.
I also posted tests to the public: D40, D610, Fine Pix S5Pro. People liked the heel.
I think the concept of "beautiful color" is very subjective. I also posted here pairs of d50, d200 vs d5100 with an obvious loss in terms of the palette and saturation of the latter, opponents distinguished between ssd and kmos, they assumed that BB was incorrectly selected for d5100, etc., but the settings were the same - auto BB, the picture was neutral.
Valery, your test just confirmed the obvious fact that Nikon has a bad profile on kmos.
For the kmos vs ccd test, you need to use the pens to set the same bb, align the color in ravs. And then you will be surprised that kmos is at least no worse and often better.
Kenon made excellent profiles for kmos and among the kenonists, ccd vs cmos does not occur to anyone.
And the most accurate color cameras are just at kmos.
Unlike ## beautiful color, ## the concept of exact color is objective and easy to measure.
"D 200 is also for children?"
I didn't want to offend anyone. I just think that d 50, in contrast to the similar kenon 350 d, limits the development of the amateur photographer. Since even if you buy more interesting optics, over time, it will outgrow the period when the rubber d 50 will get tired of decorating, as in childhood, and you want a serious "adult" color - it will not work with Nikon d 50. And what is the result? And in the end, you have to sell everything for half the price and switch to another system. But on the contrary - as much as you like! If initially the camera gives a normal natural color, painting as desired later is not a problem!
Borrow from NEF and everything will be fine, everything can be fixed
By the way, in the photo ru I look at a lot of topics on modern Canon cameras and see there such a terrible color that I do not even believe that this is with Kenon. But I remember that when I figured out the color on my d 50, and the alternative to it at that time was kenon 350 (used) and kenon 400 d, I saw a lot of photos on the network from them and it was believed that kenon with color is much better in terms of naturalness. So, I don’t understand, is it now in the photo ru people are ruining the photo with their processing or were the really old canons much better in color than the current ones? Has anyone had the opportunity to compare on this issue?
Canon Kenon strife, there are many models, many lines, many generations of cameras. We need to talk about the specifics. The same goes for the rest.
You were not mistaken, the most accurate cameras in color are 5d 2 and 1ds 3.
Already in 5d 3 and 6d, kenon reduced the thickness of color filters because there was a request for optimization of high high ISO.
Mark 4 is a separate story.
The new r, rp are no longer the color of the canon, everything is sad there.
But sony a7 iii significantly improved the color, it is now sold better than all of the used kenikon vieste taken.
sony a7 iii very well balanced camera
I agree completely! So I haven’t gotten to a friend so far to test 1Ds3, as Arkady requested. I tried many cameras, and indeed, 1Ds3 gives the best color, moreover, it gives files cleaner than others (5d2 is far behind it, but also a good camera for less), transitions without artifacts to ISO 3200, and up to 1600 you can work freely. And how the camera is made as it should, and it sits in the hands as conveniently as possible, and the autofocus there works very quickly and accurately. I myself have a Nikon D3s, it also works fine with color, and it doesn’t compare much with high ISOs and in terms of noise, not like 1Ds3, but high ISOs are not often required, and the photographer’s task is not to shoot at high ISO, on the contrary, always try to shoot at its lowest possible values, so personally, I would love to buy it as a side camera or a second system, or rather, the main system, and Nikon D3s would use in obviously difficult shooting conditions. This is my personal observation, having also 5D3, which I did not like because of terrible banding on all ISOs (the color there is normal, better than with many other cameras, but banding !!!), especially when I tried the cheap 6d, which in terms of quality photos and noise at high ISO, as well as low level of banding (but not without deep file processing) a cut above 5d. But living and very balanced files with 1ds3 cost a lot, I think that with optics with high microcontrast (the ability to transfer the maximum number of gradations of one or similar colors), such as Zeiss or high-quality lenses Canon, Voigtlander, Tanron (not Sigma !!!) will give maximum quality for black and white photography.
5D Mark l has the best color of all other 5D Marks.
For example, two models: kenon 350 and kenon 200 d. The latter seems to be very worse in my subjective opinion relative to the first in color. From the examples in the photo re. What I noticed and what caught my eye. Pictures from 200 d show an unusual color of the sky during the day. It comes out some kind of purple, then, the color of the clouds is not snow-white, but some kind of yellowish. With a seemingly normal bb. This alarmed. But I can't understand - this is the cant of the camera or the people who post the photos. It's just that it usually becomes more or less understood when one person has such photos, but there many people get such colors.
older cameras, such as the 350d, have smoother colors, do not by themselves make the image too saturated, which may make it seem “correct and pleasant”, low dd also contributes to the formation of the overall color tone in the photo.
New cameras are trying to "squeeze" the maximum out of both color and dd and still not overdo it. Depending on the profile, someone does better, someone worse. As for me, 200d gives “too transparent” where it is not needed and “too bright” where it should not be. As a result, if 200d misses the color, then it will be much stronger than if it misses 350d. Something like this. And this is just one part of a long opus about the color of these cameras.
In old cameras, optimization for daylight, in new ones for high iso.
And yet I remembered d 50 ..
On one well-known site, a person also understood the color of this camera. He was struck by the incorrect transmission of black on synthetics (fabric). Instead of black it was purple. Through long discussions and experiments, it turned out that the camera has a very thin IR filter in front of the matrix. Therefore, some objects that strongly reflect infrared light may appear in the photo with a distorted color. Which was the reason for the purple color of the fabric, which is seen by our eye as black.
But this is a fairly well-known fact - a weak IR filter at d 50. In general, we continued the investigation further. It became even more interesting. It turns out that someone noticed that on test shots with d 50 and 350 d (the author of the topic posted both options) with a curved color of black fabric in the photo with d 50, all other things being equal, the shutter speed is one stop longer at d 50. That is, if put ISO 800 on both cameras and shoot the same scene, d 50 will have the same exposure of the picture but with a slower shutter speed. And this means that in fact, in order to get the same scene exposure as in 350 d, at nikon d 50, if you select the same aperture and shutter speed settings, the picture will turn out to be a stop darker, and so that everything is the same as in the Canon 350. you need to lift the iso one stop. This long reasoning led to the conclusion that there was something wrong with the noise at 50, since the engineers did such a trick with the exposure. Indeed, a competitor with a larger matrix (the kenon had 8 megapixels) had less noise than the d50 with only 6 bold megapixels. And in order to hide this, the cunning engineers of Nikon not only tricky with the expo, but also put a thinner IR filter in order to be able to suppress the noise more strongly at high ISO. If you put the usual thickness, then there would be soap. And so a thin filter - stronger noise reduction - acceptable sharpness.
Well, the bb curve is probably because a weak IR filter in front of the matrix spoils the color transfer on many objects, shifting it to a purple hue. And you can see that the auto bb in nikon d 50 very often turns green photos. Green is the antipode of violet.
You have it.
The distortion of colors on Nikon budget cameras with BB Auto has its purpose.
A user of budget cameras often shoots in jpg, and as a rule a person is undemanding.
He just needs "bright" pictures.
After reading an interview with one of Nikon’s engineers, where he mentioned different accuracy of color adjustment depending on the price and purpose of the camera, everything became clear.
On older cameras, delta hue distortion is minimal.
On the younger ones, the picture is “bright” and, possibly, oversaturated.
In older models, exactly the same problems.
For example, the delta of d750 reaches 25% !!!
What color can we talk about?
Saturation is 11% higher than normal.
What, in your understanding, is the minimum delta distortion, 25%, is it a lot or a minimum? )))))
D750 is not an older camera, but an FF for the poor / economical.
D810 / D850 have a different housing and a different resource.
I'm talking about cameras of the D4 / D4s series, etc. etc. About cameras PRO segment.
D4 / D4s are configured differently, more precisely color rendering.
I already wrote about this.
Saturation should be considered in all shades. Yes, the D750 has excesses in some shades.
However, I'm not talking about her now.
D750 lies on all deltas, it has a mismatch in color of 17.3%, 24.7%, 25.3%.
Searching for exact colors there is useless no matter how you look at the editor.
D4s is better, but not globally, it is at the level of d600 with deviations in deltas of 9% -12.5%.
Those. the flagship in color is absolutely no better than the cheap d600.
Within 17% it has deltas of the color of sony a7 mk3.
Then which camera has the most accurate color rendering?
D4 camera for reporting. The color there is secondary. The main rate of fire and high sensitivity, with moderate noise. Well, of course, reliability and security.
If the color, then on the D800E, 810 and further navigate
Thank you, I have an idea of the color D800E and D810.
On the D4 and D3s, the standard color profile is configured quite accurately and much more successfully than in the D750 or D800 / D800E.
I will not focus on the D800E / D810 - I will focus on the studio D3X, which I hope to buy this year.
Non-standard color profiles are now uploaded to the D750, and then I can replace it with a D780 or 5D_Mk4.
What other cameras have a thin IR filter besides the D50?
D40, D60, D70, D80?
Thank you, that means the color of the old kenon is really more correct.
Look at the decline in sales of the new canon and nikon.
Nikon returned to the horror of the d600, d800 and d750 in novyz bz after the excellent d850, kenon gave out the worst colors of sony and nikon in novyz bz.
As a result, Sonya steers))) because if there is already no difference in color, it is the best.
I re-read my post above .. It's hard to understand. I will formulate it easier.
Nikon kind of cheated: if the exposure is the same on d 50 and on the competitive kenon 350 - iso on nikon will be one stop more. It would seem that for canon iso 800, but for nikon 1600 the noise is the same, which means nikon is cooler. But ... It's a trick. After all, the exp is the same, but the isos are different. Nikon deceived and invented his own ISO marking standard. And it rolled! In all reviews of that time, Nikon was positioned as a less noisy model than the 350 d. Modestly keeping silent that the Nikon ISO standard is purely special.
All brands have their own ISO, there is no standard.
It is necessary to compare in mode M with identical lenses for exposure.
Further more interesting. Often with an increase in ISO, the same rabbit is removed, after which infa stretches with processing.
And to make it even more interesting, a noise canceler which can be switched off by a regular editor can be used.
In principle, Nikon, Kenon and Sony have comparable ISOs, I did not notice much difference in exposure.
“All manufacturers have their own standards”
Perhaps, but in my example it turns out like this: we do the same shutter speed, aperture, iso, then shoot the same subject with 350 d and nikon d 50. Nikon will get a darker picture. Let's bring this picture to the same brightness - with a canon of 350 d. Naturally, we will pull the exposure in the editor to +1 stop. Noises climbed. What do we see? We see the following: with the same exponent and ISO - the snapshot from Nikon d 50 is more noisy.
For a correct test, the lens must be the same.
It is possible that you are right, I didn’t particularly test such old crop, when I twisted d40 as it came out, I was not impressed.
I think that this whistle with poor color on modern cameras is a tribute to the marketing megapixel race. Eventually. Well, or corny normal engineers died out.
Bad color is the price to pay for good high ISOs and small pixels.
Plus just problems with profiles.
Rather, they no longer attract "artists", and programmers do not care about your "color"
Thanks for the review, I agree completely with everything))
14 years after the purchase, the camera works, the battery still decently holds, not like before, of course, but you can take a quiet walk taking a couple of hours in the studio or 3-4 hours on the street. And I would have pleased further, but the dust had fallen on the matrix, or the pixels were already broken, but when shooting on a closed aperture starting from 5,6-7 a bunch of dark spots and blurry traces from them.
But so far I manage to shoot to these values, it turns out as before, good.
If possible, I will show a few photos taken over the past 2-3 years.
https://ibb.co/d57D7JM
https://ibb.co/G05qwVp
Very cool pictures. I also shoot with this camera now, I really like it ...
I can't even believe that this is d50)
Thanks for your review. Once again I was convinced by looking at sample photos ... Photos (good) are made by the artist and not by the camera)
In vain you are so about the D80. He is better than D70s. faster, larger and better display, better color. I had these cameras at the same time (D80 reappeared). The noise on the D79 is for some reason stronger than the D80. But on the D50, on the contrary, 1-1.5 stops in noise wins from the D80
I noticed one fact long ago. The longer the thread of discussion of photographic equipment, the fewer photographers and more engineers there are. Corrections, profiles, IR filters, black synthetics ... What a game! :)) And about the photo, where, guys? Open some flicr or 500px, the eye is happy! There you and Nikon and Canon and Olympus are different ... People shoot and do not care what the thickness of the IR filter is or what kind of profiles the manufacturer has laid down or what is there with black synthetics ... Do not forget your head! Take pictures and have fun!
Well, I'm an electronic engineer, I am interested in photography purely from a technical point of view. I think that this is normal)) everyone finds in some business interesting only to him sides.
Where is the like button? :)
I agree. We really need such a button!
In general, the D50 is a very unusual camera, sometimes I walk it from 80-200 2.8, it looks absolutely hilarious outwardly, a large black pipe and a plug in the back, however, the focus on the central point is always accurate, the sharpness is high, and the color, immediately in JPEG, in good light, pretty good. annoying in the camera, even taking into account her age, only one thing - nothing is visible on her display. I only use it to view the histogram. well, just like on old ones))
I bought it, although I have d3300 and d7100.
It is quite possible to take pictures. Yes, it is inconvenient in some moments, but in general it is interesting.
The main disadvantage is the screen, it really is not clear whether it hit or not.
But the noise due to the pixel size is not as fine sand as on the 7100.
Bought to play around with manual glasses, try a screwdriver. (Although cheap screwdriver lenses are a myth, modern ones with a motor are cheaper.)
"While cheap screwdriver lenses are a myth, modern motorized lenses are cheaper."
Why a myth?
Nikon 28-105 / 3.5-4.5 are very cheap for the picture you can get with it.
Yes focal inconvenient for a crop. Well, plus everything is full of used different Sigma, Tamron.
Whale 18-55 and 35 / 1.8, 18-70 / 3.5-4.5 are also cheap on the secondary. In short, everyone can choose for themselves.
and the 80-200 2.8D is also very reasonable for the picture it can give.
Found an interesting feature. In the native software Capture nx-d, the data from the light areas of the image is very good. The d3300 and d7100 cannot be pulled like that. But on the other hand, newer cameras do not have this kind of lightening. The dynamic range is larger. After 24MP at 6MP, it is quite difficult to photograph. There is no maneuver to crop the frame. There is no such detail. I really like the sound of the mirror drive motor. The colors, in my opinion, are all strong, in the sense that the face can bang in red-faced.
In connection with the purchase of the D7100, the old woman stood without work with the removed battery for about a year. I decided to get it and shoot, but it was not there - in all the pictures there is a black eran of Malevich. The mirror is normal, the shutter curtains are also (checked with the lens removed in the “M” mode). There are no electronics errors, but the screen after the shot is black. P.S. I tried it with different objectives - the same result. Where to dig, colleagues?
Lay out EXIF image from RAW or the image itself
photographed the light bulb on
Indeed, it looks like Malevich's Black Square, if you cut off the excess.
You can do business.
exif of another picture (black square) - also photographed the included light bulb:
File, physical data
File size 179 kB
JPEG file type
MIME type image / jpeg
EXIF Big-endian Byte Order (Motorola, MM)
Image width 3008
Image height 2000
Baseline DCT coding type, Huffman coding
Bits per component 8
Color Components 3
Y and C downsampling ratio YCbCr4: 2: 2 (2 1)
EXIF information
Manufacturer NIKON CORPORATION
Camera model NIKON D50
Orientation Positive direction
X Resolution (DPI) 300
Y Resolution (DPI) 300
Resolution Element X and Y inches
Name and software version Ver.1.00
Last date modified 12.01.2020/18/17, 30:XNUMX:XNUMX PM
Position on Y and C matching in place
Exposure 10
Aperture 22.0
Exposure program Manual
Exif Version 0221
Original date and time 12.01.2020/18/17, 30:XNUMX:XNUMX
Created on 12.01.2020, 18:17:30
The value of each component Y, Cb, Cr, -
Image compression mode 4
Exposure Calibration 0
Maximum Aperture 3.5
Exposure Metering Pattern
Flash No flash
Focal length 18.0 mm
Comments from user JULIA2005AAAA
Time, sub-seconds 80
Original sub-seconds 80
Digitizing, sub-seconds 80
Supported Flashpix 0100 version
SRGB color space data
Allowable image width 3008
Allowable image height 2000
R98 Interoperability Identification - DCF basic file (sRGB)
Intercompatibility version 0100
Registration method Single processor color area sensor
DSC file source
Scene type Directly captured image
CFA card [Blue, Green] [Green, Red]
Image processing according to personal settings Normal process
Exposure Mode Manual Exposure
Digital zoom ratio 1
Focal length for 35 mm film 27 mm
Subject program Standard
Step Control No
Contrast Normal
Saturation Standard
Sharpness Normal
Distance range to object Unknown
Thumbnail Offset 7596
Thumbnail Length 970
MakerNotes (manufacturer notes)
Manufacturer notes version 2.10
ISO value 200
Image quality Fine
White balance Auto
AF-S focusing
Rear flash setting
Flash type
White Balance Fine Tune 0
Program Shift 0
Exposure Difference +8.2
JPEG compression scheme (old-style)
Preview Image Start 2632
Preview Image Length 4825
Flash compensation 0
ISO Setting 400
Image Boundary 0 0 3008 2000
External Flash Exposure Comp 0
Flash Exposure Bracket Value 0.0
Exposure Bracket Value 0
Tone Comp Auto
Lens type G VR
18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6 lens
Flash Mode Did Not Fire
AF Area Mode Single Area
AF Point Center
AF Points In Focus Center
Shooting mode Single-Frame, Auto ISO
Color Hue Mode3a
Light source Natural
Shot Info Version 0205
Vibration Reduction On
Hue Adjustment 0
Noise Canceling Off
WB RGGB Levels 550 256 256 366
Lens Data Version 0201
Exit Pupil Position 93.1 mm
AF Aperture 3.7
Focus Position 0x11
Focal length 0.71 m
Lens ID Number 158
Lens F Stops 5.33
Minimum focus distance 18.3 mm
Maximum focal length 106.8 mm
Max Aperture At Min Focal 3.6
Max Aperture At Max Focal 5.7
MCU Version 160
Effective Max Aperture 3.6
Sensor Pixel Size 7.8 x 7.8 um
Serial number BODY, camera without lens
Image Data Size 117506
Camera mileage, lens shutter number 25217
Flash Info Version 0100
Flash Source None
External Flash Firmware n / a
External Flash Flags (none)
Flash Commander Mode Off
Flash Control Mode Off
Flash Compensation 0
Flash GN Distance 0
Flash Group A Control Mode Off
Flash Group B Control Mode Off
Flash Group A Compensation 0
Flash Group B Compensation 0
Image Optimization Custom
Vari Program
Composite (ordered or basic information)
Aperture 22.0
Blue balance 1.429688
Lens ID AF-S DX VR Zoom-Nikkor 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G ED
Lens 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6 G VR
Preview (Binary data 4825 bytes)
Red balance 2.148438
Scale factor for 35mm equivalent 1.5
Exposure 10
Created on 12.01.2020, 18:17:30
Creation date and time 12.01.2020/18/17, 30:XNUMX:XNUMX
Date of change 12.01.2020, 18:17:30
Pictogram (Binary data 970 bytes)
Scatter spot 0.020 mm
Depth of field 11.13 m (0.37 - 11.49)
Field of view, viewing angle 66.0 deg (0.92 m)
Focal length (reduced to 35 mm) 18.0 mm (35 mm equivalent: 27.0 mm)
Hyperfocal distance 0.74 m
Image size 3008 × 2000
Light value 4.6
Megapixels 6.0
You can try taking a picture without a lens. If Malevich again, then something with a matrix or board
tried - black
Dig 2 meters deep. Or sell for parts.
Give it to the children, let them play.
I can't - this is the first love, so to speak)))
And on my D50 (took to play) 2 stripes of red pixels. Sometimes they are not visible, and sometimes very noticeable.
I think you have a jammed aperture drive, which is why the pictures are black. Try setting your aperture as close as possible and taking a photo with a bright light source in aperture priority mode. If the picture is successful, definitely look at the diaphragm drive. Something like this.
aperture 22, exposure 10 seconds, photographing the included light
Even the matrix noise is not visible.
It is necessary to take it for diagnostics in the SC.
repairs in the SC is impractical - there is no SC in my village, but sending them to the capital for repairs at the cost of a working device for a penny is such a thing. Or I will do it myself (hands grow almost from the right place) - there are spare parts for the CFM, or I will put it on the shelf.
If possible, try a different battery.
there is no other, the tester shows 7,5V, not under load, of course, but still ...
Ask someone.
I think this is not a diaphragm drive)) Perhaps something with the electronics.
If d50 is the first love, they can still be found on Avito in a state of near-lick, for mere pennies. Hurry)))
No, I'll either make this one or buy another model with a CCD matrix. I'm more inclined to believe the matrix is dead, according to this: https://photo.tveur.kiev.ua/neobhodim-remont-fotoapparatov-nikon-d5100-esli-poluchayutsya-chernye-snimki
The matrix, as a rule, does not die like that, but stripes appear, colors are distorted.
Try rubbing alcohol on the contacts on the camera mount.
unfortunately did not help
It's a pity…
It feels like the mirror isn't going up, or it's going up, but at the wrong moment
If everything is fine with the mirror, it means that the matrix is not powered
Only this can explain the "black square" when the diaphragm drive is working
Roman, I wonder how it all ended? I had a similar case, but only with d7000. Knocked out both memory cards, moreover, both at once. To which it was difficult to whine. The month was looking for a reason, which he just didn’t do. Bought D610. D7000 showed a radio master to a friend, left to look. I left the memory cards at home by accident. He inserted his card for verification and after half an hour calls, the camera works with a bang. I go back, check, everything works. I come home, Malevich's black square. Kondrat almost "missed" me. and then it dawned on me ... Maps ... This is probably from the realm of fantasy. Both maps in D610 still work, and in d7000 - Malevich's square ...
There are cards that D800 reads, but D90 does not. More modern, or something ...
Good afternoon!
Arkady, hello!
I read the comments on this review page (on the last one), sorry, but most of them are talking such nonsense about this camera, and they even write more about completely different cameras, like grannies at gatherings, peeling seeds.
See the following examples of photos from this camera taken by Arkady, discuss these photos, the quality of which you most will not get.
These photos are simply superb, chic, with amazing color reproduction and good dynamic range.
This means that the Nikon D50 camera is a very good camera, despite its retro age.
I advise all commentators to learn how to take such excellent photos.
You still need to have brains for any camera ... But don’t find fault, it’s not right, it’s not like that, the grip is not like that, the speed is not that ..
As a bad dancer knows... tomatoes get in the way...
Many thanks to Arkady for the photos taken with this camera!
It's a pleasure to watch them, unlike today's modern photoshopped abstractions ...
su informe es correcto pero nunca entendi si es buena, o no lo es, si es compacta ,si es mirroless , o si es reflex
Si no entendiste nada, ¿cómo puedes decir que el informe es correcto?) Esta es una SLR, no compacta, vieja, con ISO bajo y hermoso color sin procesamiento.
An excellent camera, I was lucky, I bought one for only 5000 rubles with 731 frames, it’s basically like new from the store. I bought it in a box with documents and a receipt, the owner bought the camera in 2005 in the Netherlands... She said that she tried to take pictures, but it wasn’t mine and the camera in the box was in the closet, fortunately she thought of taking out the battery.
I’ll say a few words about this camera, the camera is excellent and I liked it, but the standard 18-55 mm lens completely sucks, at 18 mm it gives such distortion that mother don’t worry. I attached a Sigma 24-70mm f2.8 to it, but I didn’t like the result, the focusing was blurry.
On the native 18-55 the focus is sharp.
I liked the camera because the colors are really cool! Especially in the sun, the colors are clear, like on old film cameras. Ravchiki weigh only 5 mg, japeg only 2.8 mg. The problem is with memory cards, 2 GB is absolutely impossible to find, a 512 MB card is included.
Please advise which lens is best for me to buy for it? I can simply give 18 – 55 mm to anyone, I literally don’t need it at all.
And I also noticed that in M mode, in which I always shoot, exposure correction + – is impossible, but only in P mode.
And another question is how to make the ISO step not 200, 400, 800, 1600, but 200, 300, 400, 500, etc.
Try the Sigma 17-50 f2.8. My copy on the d50 body focuses accurately and quickly, and the picture is truly sharp at an open aperture. Although the d7000 with this lens has front focus.
Well done for thinking to remove the battery!
Need a 18-55 lens. Can you send it? Or have you already gifted it to someone?
Thank you very much, Arkady.
In my opinion, there are no more such experts who describe photographic equipment in Russian. A huge bow from all photographers.
But still...
Why do you prefer the D40? Because of the display? After all, the memory card is not a problem. You can buy several.
And the D50 has a motor and an info ring! This is a big plus! In addition, more buttons are brought out (except FN).
It weighs more, yes. But if you install a motor and an additional display on the D40, it will probably weigh the same.
The D40 has a D200 processor, which makes the picture cleaner and better. With BB ProbeGem, it's much (many times) smaller. https://youtu.be/sAVc40WCvvw?si=u9HVL55sOvd0WTCA