Every day I get questions like 'which digital SLR camera to buy Nikon'. In this article I will share my experience on this matter. I have shot with almost all Nikon DSLRs with different lenses and in different conditions. Some things in choosing a camera for beginners may not be obvious, but believe me, in this article, I have thought out everything as much as possible and adjusted it as much as possible for the optimal and truthful options for choosing.
Popular Nikon cameras
To begin, I advise you to understand what is the camera forthen you need to determine the most suitable class of cameras that are suitable for the selected tasks.
All Nikon digital SLR cameras are very easily divided into 4 classes:
- Amateur cameras (entry level) - these cameras are aimed at people who just need to get a high-quality photo without delving into the subtleties and settings of the camera. These are the so-called cameras - 'pointed and took off '. Most often, amateur cameras are best suited to people who don't do photography professionally, they just want a good camera for home, leisure, travel, family, nature, etc.. The main requirements for such a camera are ease, simplicity in management, reasonable price.
- Advanced Amateur Cameras (Advanced) - these cameras have advanced functionality with a large number of specific settings that can be dealt with for a long time. These cameras are suitable for advanced amateurs who at least basic knowledge of camera settings either want to get a good potential for mastering photography skills. These cameras are noticeably more expensive, heavier, but still with the same intuitive controls as entry-level cameras.
- Professional cameras (cameras of the upper price range) - these cameras are created for people who are engaged in photography professionally, they know a lot about photography and are not afraid of manual settings. Typically, these cameras have a much better body, functionality and support additional extensions and capabilities. These cameras are not suitable for amateurs as do not have automatic shooting modes and have a specific professional management with a small number of tips.
- Flagship professional cameras (TOP cameras) - these are cameras with exorbitant workmanship and functionality, are needed exclusively for professional purposes. These are the cameras that everyone else is equal to, like a 'flagship'. These cameras are not suitable for beginners and hobbyists.
Nikon itself makes the distribution even easier, only professional and amateur cameras exist on the official Nikon website, but wikipedia also divides Nikon cameras into 4 levels. By the way, the words 'camera', 'camera' and 'camera' in this article, and in many others, mean the same thing. View a graphical distribution of cameras by category can here.
Basic separation of Nikon interchangeable lens cameras
For beginners and lovers I recommend entry-level Nikon amateur cameras.
A camera is a complex technical device, and technology does not stand still. It so happened that in my rating cameras from Nikon can be traced clear correlation of camera output - the newer the camera, the better it is. For 2017, following this logic and other details, the best amateur camera is Nikon D5600, this can be seen from the nameplate below.
When choosing a camera, I do not recommend paying much attention to the number of megapixels, in most cases a large number of megapixels is not in demand and even unnecessarily (these issues are covered in more detail here, here и here). Once again, in big letters - think about the fact that megapixels in amateur-grade DSLR cameras do not solve anything at all.
Each Nikon camera model is highlighted by a link that leads to its review, which describes all of its features.
The question of choice is very much limited by your budget.. I recommend buying a camera that fits into your budget based on the ratings below:
| Model | Rating | Exit time | The number of MP | Speed c / s | Point focus. | Video | Comment |
| D5600 | 1 | November 2015 | 24 | 5 (4) | 39 | Full HD 60p with autofocus | Very nice amateur cam |
| D5500 | 2 | January 2015 | 24 | 5 (4) | 39 | Full HD 60p with autofocus | A very good option for an amateur camera |
| D5300 | 3 | November 2013 | 24 | 5 (4) | 39 | Full HD 60p with autofocus | A very good option for an amateur camera |
| D5200 | 4 | November 2012 | 24 | 5 | 39 | Full HD 60i with autofocus | Great option for an amateur camera |
| D3300 | 5 | January 2014 | 24 | 5 | 11 | Full HD 60p with autofocus | Great option for an amateur camera |
| D3500 | 6 | August 2018 | 24 | 5 | 11 | Full HD 60p with autofocus | Great option for an amateur camera |
| D3400 | 7 | August 2016 | 24 | 5 | 11 | Full HD 60p with autofocus | Great option for an amateur camera |
| D5100 | 8 | April 2011 | 16,2 | 4 | 11 | Full HD 30p with autofocus | Good option with rotary display |
| D3200 | 9 | 24,2 | 4 | 11 | Full HD 30p with autofocus | Good option, no rotary display | |
| D3100 | 10 | December 2010 | 14,2 | 3 | 11 | Full HD 24fps with autofocus | A good option without a rotary display |
| D5000 | 11 | June 2009 | 12,3 | 4 | 11 | HD 720p, no autofocus | Bad video quality |
| D3000 | 12 | December 2009 | 10,2 | 3 | 11 | No | Old matrix, does not work well in dark conditions |
| D60 | 13 | March 2008 | 10,2 | 3 | 3 | No | Old matrix, does not work well in dark conditions, few focus points |
| D40x | 14 | May 2007 | 10,2 | 3 | 3 | No | Old matrix, does not work well in dark conditions, few focus points |
| D40 | 15 | December 2006 | 6,1 | 2,5 | 3 | No | Slow shooting speed, low ISO, few focus points |
| D50 | 16 | July 2005 | 6,1 | 2,5 | 5 | No | There is a focus motor. Very small display, very old camera |
All these cameras are cameras. Nikon DX (cameras with a cropped sensor format APS-C). All amateur cameras except Nikon D50, do not have a built-in focus motor and should use only lenses to achieve auto focus Nikon AF-S, AF-I, AF-Por lenses third party manufacturersthat have a built-in focus motor. Also, all amateur cameras except Nikon D50, do not have an additional monochrome display for quick setup of basic functions. And yet these cameras do not have an additional front selector (disk), which on more advanced models is located under the power button. Nor do they have buttons for previewing the depth of field, and their built-in flash cannot remotely control external flashes in automatic mode. These cameras do not have a mode high speed sync with flashes for shooting at extremely short excerpt. Most of these functions are not in demand for the amateur and are not particularly critical when choosing a camera.
If there are financial constraints, then good budget option there will be a camera Nikon D3500, which I recommend as Nikon's first DSLR for beginners and amateurs who don't plan on getting into photography in the future. Although she is ranked lower than D3300but it is still available for sale.
It's important: The era of SLR cameras is gone. Mirrorless cameras are all the rage right now. Nikon has a few mirrorless cropped cameras of the Nikon DX series.
Cameras Nikon Z DX (APS-C)
- Nikon z50 [October 2019]
- Nikon z50 ii [November 2024]
- Nikon Z fc [June 2021, black/silver]
- Nikon z30 [June 2022]
All Nikon DX lenses for mirrorless cameras with Nikon Z mount and APS-C sensor
- Nikon Nikkor ZDX 24 mm 1:1.7 [May 2023, BHphotovideo]
- Nikon Nikkor ZDX 12-28mm 1:3.5-5.6PZ VR [April 2023, BHphotovideo]
- Nikon Nikkor ZDX 16-50mm 1:3.5-6.3VR [October 2019, BHphotovideo]
- Nikon Nikkor ZDX 18-140mm 1:3.5-6.3VR [October 2021, BHphotovideo]
- Nikon Nikkor ZDX 50-250mm 1:4.5-6.3VR [October 2019, BHphotovideo]
For Nikon Z DX (APS-C), there are third-party autofocus lenses:
- felttrox: 13/1.4, 23/1.4, 25/1.7, 27 /1.2, 33/1.4, 35/1.7, 56/1.4, 56/1.7, 75 /1.2
- yongnuo: 11/1.8, 23/1.4, 33/1.4, 35/1.8, 50/1.8, 56/1.4
- SIRUI: 16/1.2, 23/1.2, 33/1.2, 56/1.2, 75/1.2, 40/T1.8 1.33X
- Sigma: 16/1.4, 30/1.4, 56/1.4
- TTArtisan: 23/1.8, 27/2.8, 35/1.8, 35 / 1.8 II, 56/1.8
- Meike: 33/1.4, 55/1.4
- Brightin Star: 50/1.4
- 7Artisans: 27/2.8
- AstrHori: 27/2.8
- Tamron: 18-300/3.5-6.3
Among advanced amateur SLR cameras, the best is full frame Nikon D780. If you don’t want to mess with the full frame, then Nikon is the best option among cropped cameras. D7500.
| Model | Rating | Exit time | The number of MP | Speed c / s | Point focus. | Video | Comment |
| D780 (FX) | 1 | January 2020 | 24,2 | 7 (12) | 51 | 4K 30p with autofocus | The best option for an advanced amateur camera. Full frame. |
| D750 (FX) | 2 | September 2014 | 24,3 | 6,5 | 51 | Full HD 60p with autofocus | A very good option for an advanced amateur camera. Full frame. |
| D610 (FX) | 3 | October 2013 | 24,3 | 6,0 | 39 | Full HD 30p with autofocus | A very good option for an advanced amateur camera. Full frame. |
| D600 (FX) | 4 | November 2012 | 24,3 | 5,5 | 39 | Full HD 30p with autofocus | A good option for an advanced amateur camera. Full frame. |
| D7500 | 5 | April 2017 | 20,2 | 8 | 51 | 4K auto focus | The best option for a cropped advanced amateur camera. |
| D7200 | 6 | March 2015 | 24,0 | 6 (7) | 51 | Full HD 30p (DX) and 60p (1.3x) with autofocus | A very good option for a cropped advanced amateur camera. |
| D7100 | 7 | February 2013 | 24,0 | 6 (7) | 51 | Full HD 30p (DX) and 60i (1.3x) with autofocus | A good option for a cropped advanced amateur camera. |
| D7000 | 8 | November 2010 | 16,2 | 6 | 39 | Full HD 24p with autofocus | A good option for a cropped camera |
| D90 | 9 | October 2008 | 12,3 | 4,5 | 11 | HD 720p, no autofocus | Good option, badly shoots video |
| D80 | 10 | September 2006 | 10,2 | 3 | 11 | No | Old camera with a good feature set |
| D70s | 11 | April 2005 | 6,1 | 3 | 5 | No | Morally obsolete camera, has a small display, few focus points |
| D70 | 12 | January 2004 | 6,1 | 3 | 5 | No | Morally obsolete camera, has a small display, few focus points |
Advanced amateur cameras Nikon D70, D70s, D80, D90, D7000, D7100, D7200, D7500 are cameras Nikon DX. Cameras Nikon D600, D610, D750, D780 are full-length, Nikon class FX. Unlike amateur cameras, all advanced amateur cameras have a built-in focus motor and can use non-motorized, sometimes cheaper type optics AF (optics AF S, AF-I, AF-P may also be suitable). These cameras have a monochrome display for quick setup of all basic functions, an additional selector under the shutter button, a depth of field preview button, and their built-in flash can remotely control other flashes automatically. All advanced amateur cameras except Nikon D70, D70s have very useful high speed sync function when using external flash units.
Attention: physical matrix size all-all Nikon DX cameras are the same. Physical matrix size all Nikon FX cameras, too, are the same. Matrix size Nikon FX is 2.25 times larger than Nikon DX. This is described in more detail in the section Fx / dx.
A good option for an advanced camera would be a model Nikon D7100, which I recommend as the first Nikon SLR camera for advanced users who want to get a huge amount of functionality for a not-so-large amount of money. There is also focus motor and nice control fast flash sync, a huge 3-inch display, the ability to control flashes through Nikon CLS, Live View mode and high-quality video shooting.
About the video: auto focus on all Nikon SLR cameras does not work well or not very well when shooting video. This is because the DSLR mechanism is not well adapted to focusing with the mirror up, which is required by video mode. Usually focusing when recording video occurs by contrast, and not using the camera's phase sensors. You need to be prepared for the fact that autofocus speed will sometimes be hundreds of times worse than on conventional compact cameras. If the speed and accuracy of focusing for video is very important, then I recommend considering buying mirrorless camera cameras Nikon Z6, Nikon Z7, Nikon z50 etc..
I specifically do not affect professional cameras such as Nikon D500, D300s, D5, D4s, D850, D810, Df - because there are very slippery moments among the choice of a professional line camera. For professionals, this will be interesting performance plate.
Mirrorless cameras with Nikon Z mount
Nikon now has full-frame mirrorless cameras Nikon Z6 and Nikon Z7, as well as a small fleet of lenses for them. With these cameras, you can use lenses from SLR cameras using the Nikon FTZ adapter. If there are a lot of problems with accurate information, it’s better to ask me about these cameras in the comments.
It's important: The era of SLR cameras is gone. Mirrorless cameras are all the rage right now.
Full frame Nikon Z mount cameras
- Nikon z5 [July 2020]
- Nikon Z5 II [April 2025]
- Nikon z6 [August 2018]
- Nikon z6 ii [October 2020]
- Nikon Z6 III [June 2024]
- Nikon z7 [August 2018]
- Nikon z7 ii [October 2020]
- Nikon z8 [May 2023]
- Nikon z9 [October 2021]
- Nikon Zf [September 2023]
List of all 'Nikon Nikkor Z' full-frame lenses for mirrorless cameras with Nikon Z mount
Fixes:
- Nikon Nikkor Z 20 mm 1:1.8 S [February 2020]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 24 mm 1:1.8 S [September 2019]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 26 mm 1:2.8 [January 2023]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 28 mm 1:2.8 [October 2021]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 28 mm 1:2.8 SE [June 2021]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 35 mm 1:1.8 S [August 2018]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 35 mm 1:1.4 [June 2024]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 35 mm 1:1.2 S [February 2025]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 40 mm 1:2 [September 2021]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 40 mm 1:2 SE [November 2022]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 50 mm 1:1.2 S [September 2020]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 50 mm 1:1.4 [September 2024]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 50 mm 1:1.8 S [August 2018]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 50 mm 1:2.8 MC [June 2021]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 58 mm 1:0.95 S Nod [October 2019]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 85 mm 1:1.2 S [January 2023]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 85 mm 1:1.8 S [July 2019]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 105 mm 1:2.8 S VR MC [June 2021]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 135 mm 1:1.8 S full [September 2023]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 400 mm 1:2.8 S VR TC [January 2022]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 400 mm 1:4.5 S VR [June 2022]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 600 mm 1:4 S VR TC [November 2022]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 600 mm 1:6.3 S VR PF [October 2023]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 800 mm 1:6.3 S VR PF [April 2022]
Zuma:
- Nikon Nikkor Z 14-24mm 1:2.8 S [September 2020]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 14-30mm 1:4 S [January 2019]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 17-28mm 1:2.8 [September 2022]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 24-50mm 1: 4-6.3 [July 2020]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 24-70mm 1:4 S [August 2018]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 24-70mm 1:2.8 S [February 2019]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 24-120mm 1:4 S [October 2021]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 24-200mm 1: 4-6.3 VR [February 2020]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 28-75mm 1:2.8 [December 2021]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 28-135mm 1:4 PZ POWER ZOOM [February 2025]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 28-400mm 1: 4-8 VR [March 2024]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 70-180mm 1:2.8 [June 2023]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 70-200mm 1:2.8 S VR [January 2020]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 100-400mm 1: 4.5-5.6 S VR [October 2021]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 180-600mm 1: 5.6-6.3 VR [June 2023]
Third party autofocus full-frame lenses for Nikon Z mount
- felttrox: 16/1.8, 20/2.8, 24/1.8, 28/1.8, 28/4.5, 35/1.8, 35/1.2, 40/2.5, 50/2, 50/1.8, 85/1.8
- Tamron: 90/2.8, 16-30/2.8, 28-75/2.8G2, 35-150/2-2.8, 50-400/4.5-6.3, 70-300/4.5-6.3, 150-500/5-6.7
- yongnuo: 35/2, 50/1.8, 85/1.8
- Meike: 35/2, 35 / 1.8, 50/1.8, 55/1.8, 85/1.8, 85 / 1.8 PRO, 85/1.4
- TTArtisan: 32/2.8, 75/2
- 7Artisans: 50/1.8, 85/1.8
- AstrHori: 85/1.8
- laowa: 10/2.8, 12/2.8
- Sirui: 85/1.4
- SG-image: 55/1.8
- Songraw: 50/1.2, 85/1.2
- Brightin star: 85/1.8
- Rollei: 85/1.8
Equipment
Usually the camera is sold separately from the lens, this is called bodyand sometimes the camera is sold with some kind of lens, this is called Kit, and the supplied lens is called 'whale lens'. Attention: take pictures with one camera body You can’t take pictures always with a lens.
Important: usually, if you buy a camera with a whale lens (Kit kit), then such a kit will cost less than buying a camera and lens separately.
Native (whale) lens
There are lenses really different for different purposes and for different tasks. Usually, the camera comes with a universal standard lens that can be used for basic photographic tasks. With a standard lens, you can shoot landscapes, and close-up objects, and portraits - almost anything. Usually the most common lens is Nikon 18-55 / 3.5-5.6 (one of 6 possible modifications) Instead of this lens, I highly recommend purchasing a kit with one of the following candidates:
- Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-105mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED SWM VR IF Aspherical
- Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-140mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED SWM VR IF Aspherical
- Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-200mm 1: 3.5-5.6GII ED SWM VR IF Aspherical
The above lenses are suitable for all Nikon DX cameras.. In online stores, the names of lenses can be specified differently, but they can be easily determined by the value of the focal length, for example, 18-105, 18-140, 18-200, etc.
Very important: choosing a lens is just as important as choosing a camera. The lens is sometimes so important that it is better to take a cheaper / simpler camera, but with a higher quality lens. Take my advice - instead of buying and using a camera with a lens Nikon 18-55 / 3.5-5.6 (or any modification of it), look for the recommended options mentioned above.
If you're on a budget, the best versatile, fast, professional Nikon DX lenses are Nikon 17-55mm f / 2.8G ED IF AF-S DX Nikkor и Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 16-80mm 1: 2.8-4E N ED VR Nano Crystal Coat SWM IF Aspherical. ask note to the fact that this is purely my recommendations and in each individual case the recommendations can be very different.
What do all these mean incomprehensible coded designations in the names of the lenses can take a look here.
List of all professional lenses for Nikon DX cameras can be found here (there are 4 of them).
The choice of other non-universal lenses requires a separate large article, but in addition to the full-time (universal whale) lens, I recommend getting a fast, discrete fixed lens. Such a lens does not know how to zoom, but it has a very high aperture. Huge aperture will allow you to shoot without problems in poor lighting conditions, control the depth of field (create blurred background in photos), create a bokeh effect, get brighter and more vibrant colors in photos. In good light, such a lens allows you to shoot at a very short shutter speed, thereby 'freezing' objects in motion.
Recommended list of fast fixed lenses:
- Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 35mm 1: 1.8G SWM Aspherical (for any Nikon DX cameras)
- Nikon AF-S Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.8G SWM Aspherical (for any cameras)
- Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor (for any cameras with a focus motor)
Usually the first such lens is the so-called 'half a ruble'(the last two in the list). The entire lineup of fifty kopecks for Nikon cameras can be found here.
You will find a complete list of all Nikon DX lenses. here.
Thoughts on optional external flash find in the section Which flash to choose for Nikon cameras?
How to check the camera upon purchase is described in the section 'Camera check'.
Recommendations for choosing a Canon camera can be found in the 'What kind of amateur Canon SLR camera to buy'.
Nikon or Canon? I have touched upon this question in a series of articles on this subject: time, two, three.
My experience
I had many Nikon cameras at my disposal: D700 (about 4 years) D90 (3 years), D80 (2 years), D40 (2 years), D200 (1 year), Nikon D70s (half a year) Nikon D70 (half a year) Nikon D100 (half a year) Canon 350D (2 years), Canon 450D (year), Canon 300D (half a year), Canon EOS 5D (1 year), Fujifilm FinePix S5 Pro (about a year) Nikon AF N8008s (2 years), many cameras of other brands (like Sony a7). Due to the fact that I am writing camera reviews and work professional photographer, then in my hands I held and shot almost all models of Nikon and Canon SLR cameras.
Over the past 2-3 years, everything orders I shoot on Nikon D700 or Nikon D610 (I take from friends). Also i like Sony a7which I use for the needs of this site. For home in 2015, I bought myself Nikon D40which I love very much for a pleasant color performance. In 2017, I bought and Nikon D70s, which is not a pity to use in any conditions, the gallery of images from this camera is located just below. In 2018, in fact, I got a gift Nikon D100, pictures from her can be looked here. I do not hesitate to shoot on old cameras, as I know for sure that the final result depends more on other factors (described here).
From personal experience I can add that choosing a camera is not an easy matter, it is especially difficult to choose the first camera, then everything becomes simpler and choosing something else becomes very, very simple. Take my advice - don't chase megapixels, they practically don't solve anything. I wish everyone to find exactly 'their very best camera', and also remember that important how to take pictures, but not by what means.
Alternative versions at the lowest price
If you have a urge to take pictures in your blood, and the budget for the purchase of an SLR camera is very limited, I recommend looking in the direction of used cameras. In used cameras are nothing wrong. For example, for only $ 100 can buy used Nikon D40 (or D50, or D70, or D70s, or D80) with a whale lens Nikon 18-55mm f / 3.5-5.6GII ED AF-S DX Nikkor. Even such an old DSLR will in many ways be better than some modern digital soap dishes and even advanced cameras with interchangeable lenses, such as Nikon 1 J1.
Nikon D40 body on the secondary market can be found for 60-100 ye - this is one of the cheapest SLR cameras of all time. For 80-100 USD you can find a pretty super-zoom to it Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-135m 1: 3.5-5.6G ED SWM IF Aspherical or Nikon AF-S Nikkor 18-70mm 1: 3.5-4.5G ED DX SWM IF Aspherical and shoot for your own pleasure.
My practice has shown that The following models may be the cheapest and most functional.:
- cameras with a focus motor: Nikon D200, Nikon D80, Nikon D70s, Nikon D70, Nikon D50, Nikon D100
- cameras without focus motor Nikon D3000, Nikon D60, Nikon D40x, Nikon D40
- focus motor lenses: universal zoom lens Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-135m 1: 3.5-5.6G ED SWM IF Aspherical, versatile zoom lens Nikon AF-S Nikkor 18-70mm 1: 3.5-4.5G ED DX SWM IF Aspherical, fast creative fixed lens YONGNUO 50mm 1: 1.8 (YN50mm F1.8N for Nikon cameras), fast, versatile fixed lens YONGNUO 35mm 1: 2 (YN35mm F2N for Nikon cameras)
- lens without focus motor (only suitable for cameras with focus motor) - fast creative prime lens Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor (any of the versions: MKI 165g, MKI 210g, MKII-MIJ, MKII N.J., MKII MIC, MKIII)
On here to place a catering order. you can see my picture gallery obtained with a fairly old camera Nikon D70 and a fast fifty-fifty lens Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8 AF Nikkor (MKII, Nikon JAPAN).
All pictures were taken with Nikon AF Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.8, MKII, NJ (NIKON JAPAN) и Nikon D70. Enlarge Image or go to large format photo gallery.
On here to place a catering order. You can see my gallery of pictures obtained with the help of an old man Nikon D100 (Nikon's first digital SLR camera in a classic case) paired with a fast fifty-pound lens Nikon AF Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.8 (MKII, MADE IN CHINA).
All pictures were taken with Nikon AF Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.8, MKII version, MIC (MADE IN CHINA) и Nikon D100. Enlarge Image or go to the gallery with large format photographs.
Imagine what can be removed on a better modern technology?
You will find many examples of inexpensive autofocus photo equipment among my galleries. here.
You can still get old soviet fast lens, such as MS Helios-81H 2/50 or any other inexpensive manual lenssuch as Nikon Nikkor-SC Auto 1: 1.4 f = 50mm и study just super-awesome shots, however, will have to lose auto focus.
Well, if you are a real ninja photographer and want to use some unusually stunning DSLR sword for a small amount of money, then I highly recommend that you look into my article Legends go to battle.
And that's not all, if you really want to shoot on full camera, then you can organize such a pleasure for yourself for just $ 240. How? Read in the section 'Full Frame for $ 240'.
If you’re not comfortable with Nikon amateur cameras, you can take a look a complete list of all Nikon Central Control Unitswhere you can find the top Nikon D1 professional cameras, D1h, D1x, D2h, D2x, D2hs, D2xs, D3, D3s, D3x, D4, D4s, D5, and top-tier cameras Nikon D100, D200, D300, D300s, D500, D700, D800,D800E, D810, D810a, D850. By the way, Nikon has also created a very interesting camera with a retro body design and without the ability to shoot video - Nikon DF :).
Results
Progress does not stand still, basically, the newer the camera, the better it is, but even with relatively old SLR cameras you can get wonderful image quality, since the photo quality affects not only the camera.
To choose the best option, just decide on the budget and use my rating of cameras in the plate.
I am constantly updating and adding to this article. This article was last edited on February 29, 2024.
I don’t understand anything and I was lost in the choice!
Just tell me the budget that you are willing to spend on the camera and the purpose of buying the camera (what you will shoot for and in what) in the comments and they will tell you the best option. Anyway, ask any of your questions in the comments under this article (the site does NOT require absolutely no registration). You can consult me directly on these contacts.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval.
Thank you for the article. He started with a film of Kiev and Zenith. There is a D5200, but now I understand that without aphthofocus in the camera on optics the budget will suffer, does it make sense to take 7000?
well, if you have already bought d5200, then when you switch to d7000, the budget will probably suffer too ... meaning is a subjective concept in this case, weigh all the pros and cons yourself, no one will take pictures for you ..
Dear Arkady!
I know that this question has already been asked - but I am very tormented by thoughts for and against which one to buy Nikon D610 or Nikon D7100.
The tablet did not give me information for a final choice.
In your own words It makes sense to pay more for the D610. Why is it fundamentally better - what will be reflected in the pictures!
Any convenience, buttons do not affect my choice. And the camera is needed for taking pictures and not as a beautiful gadget, high-quality pictures (from a technical point that you can squeeze out of the camera). And how much will there be a difference in the results between these cameras? And how much in quality the D610 breaks away from the Nikon D7100. Here For this gap does it make sense to pay?
Thank you so much.
Complete my weekly torment in choosing.
Waiting for your reply.
Thanks again.
Found a simple comparison http://youtu.be/-h91HJel0Pw which makes you think even harder.
price 69 890 rub. and 45 710 rubles.
Difference of 24 thousand
Or maybe the D610 is worth it?
Everything very much depends on the photo tasks, if you don't plan to shoot macro, then 610 is unambiguous. Judge for yourself: if you extrapolate the matrix sizes and their pixelity relative to each other, it turns out that 7100 is a 54 megapixel full frame, and 610 is a 10 megapixel crop. Here is all the hell for you. Extreme shooting conditions, a wide park of lenses and a higher diffraction limit is 610. High demands on the quality of glasses and per-pixel sharpness and detailing - 7100. Visually, the images are not distinguishable in quality if you do not make 100% crop, here the 7100 makes 610 without options.
Two weeks ago, by a fluke, I took a D600 with a range of 2 thousand, in a new state for 45 tr. Now I will sell the D7100, I will keep the D5100 from the crops. I will not describe all the pros and cons, but I liked the D600 as a whole much more. According to the picture: better drawing, better bokeh, less HA, IMHO slightly better color and easier to “stretch”, much less noise in the shadows and at high ISO. I did not notice where the D7100 "makes" the D600 according to the picture. If only for the uniformity of detail across the entire field when using FF glasses, edges and corners suffer on the D600, but in the center and middle the resolution is higher, as well as on a closed hole. But D7100 is also a great camera, I have no complaints about it and I really liked and like it. The D7100 is simpler and cheaper to operate and maintain.
The PS D7100 is simpler and cheaper to operate and maintain.
How much do you want for the D7100?
I’ll expose the carcass for 35, and then we'll see. We have a large deficit of D7100 in the Nizhny Novgorod secondary market, they are flying away quickly, only recently for 34 I flew for a short while. And new from 45.
Thanks! But you are too far away I am from Odessa.
Oh yes, I completely forgot to mention: when using some FF-glasses on the D7100, there may be a greater drop in contrast and illumination under backlight than on the D600, under the same shooting conditions. Perhaps something is being reflected somewhere, I still did not understand the end of the reason, but noticed the result.
I shot the same thing with two cameras 600 and 7100, a Nikon 105 mm 2,8 micro G VR N AFS lens. 600 immediately fell into my hand like a glove, I was even surprised at how pleasantly and naturally you can hold the camera, I liked the shutter sound (a purely subjective sensation), and it seemed to me that, here, the issue was resolved, I had to take 610 (it was just 610 that moment). He came home, opened the pictures and didn’t see much difference at first, except for EGF, but then he revealed the full scale and the difference became obvious. I initially focused on macro photography and the ability to crop even up to 100% crop without loss of quality was very impressive. So for me personally this factor turned out to be decisive, and no matter how unfortunate it was to give up the full frame, I still overcame myself. All dreams of the best technology remain dreams, but for now I use it, that is, I rejoice. The lenses are both old and new, all very good in their own way, but one thing is for sure, no matter how rare and legendary glasses are, I want to shoot more with modern, autofocus, bright, fast, sharp and not necessarily expensive (AF S DX 35mm 1,8 G is a very good example).
Regarding glasses: now I began to come to the same opinion, but here it is not so simple. Sharp contrasting glass does not necessarily mean good, and the prices of good new glasses for a full frame bite strongly, unfortunately. Slowly I will buy a shirik and a body (I would like a f / 2.8 body), but for now I will squeeze out everything that is possible from the existing one.
Yarkiy, more about the 105s: maybe something went wrong, did not take into account the narrower flu and greater blur on the FF, did not cover the diaphragm, back / front of the carcass, or something else? How so, 16mp resolution on the D600 versus 12MP on the D7100, and on the D7100 sharper than 100% crop? Maybe at the edges / corners washes?
Alexander, I don’t understand you, what is 16 megapixel at 600 and 12 at 7100? If you mean the density of pixels on the matrix, then, at d600 - 4279 DPI, 7100 - 6485 DPI, respectively, the clarity of the picture will be higher at 7100, I'm not talking about the absence of a low-pass filter at 7100. And about 105k, if you not an alcoholic with shaking hands, then in daylight at different apertures and with a stabilizer and a cheerful autofocus, and even when no one rushes you, what's the problem of getting a few sharp shots? Believe me, 105mm micro 2,8G glass is gorgeous and it doesn't wash any corners. Well, if the sharp and contrasting glass does not seem good to you, then I don’t understand at all what it is about, we are not discussing field glasses. Unfortunately it is impossible to find these frames, on hard discage the mess is terrifying. But you have both of these cameras, can't you check everything yourself? Take your sharpest lens and shoot something like a piece of cloth or wool.
Yes, I believe you in everything, no doubt, but I just make the assumption that this was a special case. Since according to DXO tests, 105 on the D7100 gives a clear picture resolution of 12MP (despite its 24MP), and on the D600 - 16MP (again, despite the 24MP). This is from the entire matrix. I'll check it on 85.
Well, I tried. At least the D600 is not worse, in my opinion even better: the outlines of the objects (letters) are more correct, the colors are cleaner and more correct (the original before the eyes), the noise is less. The settings on the cameras were absolutely identical, the angle was chosen so that in the images the object was the same size relative to the frame size. Crop and resize up to 400%.
85mm 1.8G, F5.6, ISO100, neutral, point exposure, no flash, incandescent light, auto white balance, 10s delay, all enhancements and noise suppressors disabled, shutter speed 2.5s for D600 and 2c for D7100, in Capture NX2 white balance corrected by white point, export to TIFF from NEF, further crop to FS, export to JPEG.
PS Of course all this is garbage, in serious offices they make measurements according to all the rules on the scales ...
Here's the complete source frame. Sorry for "advertising", took the first business card that came across.
ohhh, what a soft and unobtrusive ad! Alexander, you’re just a marketing genius;)
And yet, I do not understand you: why should the D7100 be sharper when linked to DPI? In your opinion, it turns out that if you take a 3x3mm matrix with a resolution of 8000x8000 - will it be even sharper? And why don't you take into account the resolution of glass, all kinds of aberrations? Here is the fact that the D7100 does not have a low-pass filter - yes, it is a plus. But even according to my crops I don't see any advantages over FF. If only the D600 with a low-pass filter smoothes the boundaries of objects more, but visually it is even nicer (on the D7100 there are some jagged edges), and the resolution does not spoil.
I tried to sharpen in Capture One NX2 on the sample with the D600, until the noise level is approximately equal to the D7100, it turned out +3 units. Sharpness is already clearly better than the D7100, at the same time, the purity of colors has been preserved. Crop 200%.
Yarkiy, Well, agree that this is pixel pixel art? :) In real photos, well, who will look at the pixel?
Hello. Please tell me which camera to buy if I am a beginner in this business. I need a DSLR for traveling, everyday in nature, in the future I will need extra money, etc. .. Reading different comments and going to many stores I was recommended to different cameras. I settled on the D5200, but in the last store I saw the D5300 camera (I liked it) and after reading the comments on the Internet that I was stuck, now I don’t know what to do. In the future I’m going to get good optics, but the camera itself doesn’t which one to buy. Please help me with the choice so that it does not fail and that it is excellent for me. Thank you for the answer
The D5300 is a good camera, better than the D5200.
And if you choose cameras from all the other nikon models, is it possible to find another camera at the same price as the D5300 only better, just many people write negative comments about it:
http://www.dns-shop.ru/catalog/i173252/zerkalnaya-kamera-nikon-d5300-kit-18-55mm-vr-black.html#opinion
http://www.dns-shop.ru/catalog/i176154/zerkalnaya-kamera-nikon-d5300-kit-18-140mm-black.html#opinion
or is it the best amateur camera ever !?
Before asking such questions, please read what is discussed in the article above!
Fuji Xm1, Fuji X-e2, Sony NEXT 7 and its successors.
Just by reading the comments for the D5300 on the sites and you have come to the conclusion, some praise as you have, while others speak for him, on the contrary. That's where I want to figure out whether to take it and how to deal with this problem.
Some praise any technique, while others scold. Take and take off.
At least you recommend taking the d5300 with which optics so that you can shoot mountains such as the sea, etc.
Any universal lens from the list specified in the article will cope with this task.
Good evening) advise pliz the most optimal lens to Nikon D810 body, thanks for earlier))
Nikon AF-S Nikkor 24-70mm 1: 2.8GN ED
WTF? Why isn't Nikon D3s on both lists? After all, this is the best camera for amateurs ...
D3s is a TOP professional camera with weak video quality, hardly suitable for an amateur.
How did you determine that D7200 is the best among cropped cameras ??? You haven't held it in your hands yet ... or I'm wrong and the D7200 is already on sale for 10-03-2015.
I just think logically, relying on TX and personal experience.
Good afternoon, Arkady. It's time to speak about the D750. Your opinion is very interesting.
Sincerely, Alexander
Well, about her in this article there is my opinion. What else is needed?
Is it worth it to change the D3100 to the D5300
What is missing in the d3100 that you really want to have in the d5300?
very noisy when over 400
Good evening, Arkady, please help me in my choice. I definitely wanted to buy a canon 5d mark3 camera, but while I decided to take it, the price skyrocketed very, very much, I settled on CANON 7D, but now I’m still tormented by doubts, I started looking at cameras of this category in NIKON, maybe give some advice on buying a nikkon camera of this level. thank you in advance
In the article there is a plate, d7200, d7100, d7000, for which there is enough money. Or Canon 60D / 7D.
Hello. I'm going to buy a d5200 camera, but I can't decide on the lens. I want a fotik for my family, trips, holidays ... I have no experience of shooting in mirroring. Recommend a lens ...
Here I would like to advise but - “I have no experience of shooting for mirroring”. Take a whale one won't hurt you. I myself have 5200, 18-55 thrown somewhere after purchasing fix manuals. In general, specific advice - read at least a quarter of Arkady's articles in a checkerboard pattern and you yourself will understand what to take
18-55 may not be enough. I advised to look towards 18-105. This lens is inexpensive, with a large focal range - it should be enough for a start. If the photograph captivates you, then more specific wishes will already arise.
Hello, tell me what to choose for the first SLR camera: D 3100,3000 or D 5100?
D5100 will be just right.
Will it work in the d5200 studio? I mean the light and everything connected with it
Yes, it will.
Please tell me which lens will give a better picture sigma17-50 or nikor24-85 (I know that there will not be a wide angle), there is a flash sb-700
Used Canon Mark 2. There were 2 lenses: fixed 50 (1.4) AND ZOOM. They stole a bag with all the best. After the shock, I think of a new camera. I'm an amateur. At one time I was very fond of, read magazines, then cooled down. But I love a good picture. Thinking about Nikon. Please advise!
To advise, you need to know what your financial threshold is for a carcass and glass, what you are shooting and under what circumstances. If just to have a fotik, I think the initial line will be enough, especially now the matrices are very worthy. Take a look at the d3300 (I was very pleased with the high ISO, small dimensions and 24-megapixels without an anti-moor filter). If you want it as it was - ff, then d610 is a great option. 50 1.8g from Nikon is excellent.
Hello! Now I use a nikon d70 camera) I want to change it to d5500, not in vain, I think the difference will be noticeable to me, given that my camera is very outdated. I just would not want to change the flea, as they say. But still in the process of reasoning, as I plan to go to a photo school. Please advise.
For learning photography and creative growth, I advise you to take the d7000, a camera of a more advanced level. Of course, if the d5500 suits you all, then you can.
About the photo schools.
I think the first thing you need to do is go to study courses in fine arts. I recommend pastel, because there the shades are not as bright as in oil, it is more difficult to get the desired color, but learn to think well in the color palette.
In photo schools, usually, solid megapixels and photoshop. Nobody really teaches compositions.
Tell me what to change Nikon D3000? I just want something more functional, and try the lenses without a motor, I think it’s not a new D90, it’s probably the cheapest one with a screwdriver. Or are there any other options?
Nikon D90 is good, but it is better to take nikon D7000.
It comes out much more expensive, d90 is now almost at the level of 3000th, and is there a big gain?
great.
or look for d200. but obsolescence is obsolescence.
“And 2013, following this logic and other details, the best amateur camera is Nikon D5500” it is necessary to replace “2013” with “2015”, below it is indicated that the camera was higher in January 2015.
Thank you for such a detailed analysis!
Good time of day.
Arkady, a question arose. There is a camera D7000 + Sigma 17-50 / 2.8 OS + Nikon 35 / 1.8G + Nikon 85 / 1.8G + Nikon 70-300VR + SB910. There is also a macro ring and a weak ring ice flash with constant light.
Now an interest has arisen to “play around” with shooting small objects, and even more drops, splashes, etc.
In terms of lighting, I have more or less decided - I want to buy two softboxes for 5 bulbs. I plan to supply 125W economical fluorescent lamps (recalculated).
There was a question about lenses. It is desirable, of course, makrik. The stabilizer is most likely not needed - shooting from a tripod, and the shutter speeds are short. The budget is now minimal, so the best of the budget is being considered ... Again, maybe you would advise not to buy makrik, but to “conjure” with what is available. How to protect the lens from water droplets when shooting splashes?
If makrik, then probably with a larger focal length? To put it a little further away from splashes ...
I think to shoot something like that ...
Industar 26M and a set of macro rings
"1. The Tamron LD DI AF 70-300mm 1: 4-5.6 Tele-Macro (1: 2) A17 is an inexpensive telephoto lens that captures subjects from afar. Works on all Nikon cameras. ” - some inconsistency of words in the sentence ...
Hello !!! My husband finally agreed to buy me a DSLR, or rather had to agree after I dropped my favorite digital camera. And for 3 days now I completely forgot about my family and choose her only one))) I choose between Canon EOS 700D 18-55mm DC III (I tend to it the most) and Nikon D3300 18-55mm f / 3.5-5.6G VR II. Or to buy a Nikon D3200 18-105 VR Kit there seems to be a better lens. You need to invest in the amount of 12 thousand UAH. Help please determined))))
Canon 650d For seven hundred I do not see much point in overpaying.
But it’s more interesting for a family to look towards Fuji X-e1 with a regular 18-50 / 2,8-4
Having slightly exceeded the limit of 12000 hryvnias, you can watch D5100 + 18-105VR. Also a very interesting option.
these are no longer on sale.
Have you considered the option of buying used equipment? You can buy a very decent camera for 60% of the cost of a new one, in a condition like from a store. On Radozhivka there is an article about buying equipment from hand.
You know, from someone you know I might have bought, but not.
did not think about mirrorless? in many cases, this is a better choice than crop DSLRs.
Nikon D3200 18-105 VR Kit option more interesting because of the lens
Hello! Help me please!!! I want to buy an amateur camera for myself, I just can’t choose between Nikon D5100, D3200, D3100, Canon 650D, 600D, 550D? Or maybe you yourself advise something ??? I would like not to overpay. Since I don’t understand professional photography) Generally, what should I look for when choosing-megapixels. Frames per second. Number of focus points ??? I don’t understand anything about this (And is it worth buying with a rotary display ?? ?
d3100 - cheap and cheerful, d5100 - about the same, but with a rotary screen.
550d - cheap and cheerful, a good workhorse.
if for a girl and for portraits, then 650d is the optimum for the price / quality .. Well, or if you find inexpensive 100d, but it is extremely rare.
d3100 - cheap and cheerful, d5100 - about the same, but with a swivel screen.
===========================================
q5100 is absolutely not the same as q3100. this is a different class of camera. D5100 - a lightweight version of the D7000, with a 14-bit matrix. D3100 - entry-level DSLR, 12-bit, mediocre color and midtones.
Of course, of course. And removes no worse than d800 !!! 11111
D800 in crop mode will remove identically D7000 / D5100.
they have matrices using the same technology, of the same manufacturer, and the pixel size is almost the same :))))
D3100, in principle, will not give out as many semitones as older cameras - read what 12bit is, what 14bit is and what semitones are :))))
as the owner of the D800 and D5100, I think I still know better how these cameras shoot, unlike the “gurus” who do not even understand the difference between 12 bits and 14 bits, and have never held either D5100 or D800 in their hands :)))) )
Oh my God!
One writes that modern lenses do not have infinity in manual mode, because the focusing ring rotates without stop, the other, endlessly banging about lovers of heaving (and just amateurs and not fans), already fanatically promotes a completely amateur penny and outdated d5100. The third, fourth and fifth, one after the other, in the same topic, they ask “what is better to take d3100 or d5100 and with what objective”.
What is going on on the site ????
her, it would be better if he returned. (((he was even one.
The D5100 and D3100 are both entry-level, the d5100 is slightly more advanced than the d3x00 line. By the way, the D7000 is also an amateur camera, only some of its fans can casually call it semi-pro.
D5100 has a matrix of D7000 and 14 bits RAVY.
D3100 has 12 bits and a mediocre matrix.
as a result, D3100 is significantly worse in dynamic range, color and high ISO than D5100.
Given that the d700 and d5100 ravats are reaped, there is a difference with the d3100, but it depends more on different matrices, and not on the compression level.
Look towards d5300.
Oksana
it all depends on your budget and your goals.
All DSLRs have a back-front focus problem. only older models have tuning in the carcass; for Nikon, this is the D7xxx series.
70% quality depends on the optics.
pay attention to the camera was 14bit (and not 12).
it is quite possible that you will be better off purchasing a mirrorless camera, the quality of the pictures there is identical (the same matrices), but the dimensions are smaller, there are no problems with back / front focus.
Arkady also switched to Sony's mirrorless mirror)
> all DSLRs have a back-front focus problem
That's not true.
> 70% quality depends on the optics.
90% of skills
> Arkady also switched to Sony's mirrorless mirror)
I did not go over, a7 is only for reviews. The working camera is still Nikon D700.
> all DSLRs have a back-front focus problem
That's not true.
======================
it's true. I worked with two services - Nikon and Kenon, centers in Dusseldorf and the USA. it is impossible to tune a bunch of carcass + lenses to zero without having a kit in your hands. physically impossible. Nasim Mansurov correctly indicated the standard spread of +/- 5 units. this is the factory test standard.
have questions, contact the Nikon Center in Dusseldorf, for example.
in practice, even if the carcass is set to zero, the lens still has a deviation of -1 or +2. there is no adjustment in the carcass; you are welcome to the service.
further, even worse. Nikon's technique - setting the zooms by one point.
zoom requires adjustment of 3-4 points. kenon makes it possible to adjust by two points, along the edges, the rest is calculated values.
all this is the specificity of phase AF.
and there are no such problems in principle in the BZ, which have hybrid and contrast AF.
It’s not true anyway. Or do you want to say that millions of cameras always work with focus errors? Even if there is a deviation, will you notice it with a lot of lenses?
Arkady,
Photographers set up professional cameras directly in the service along with lenses.
as I did with the D800 and the D5100. many people need fine tuning the AF in the carcass.
90% of beginner amateurs do not see a problem due to the use of crop cameras with dark lenses, where the error is simply blocked by the enormous depth of field.
In the instructions for the camera they often write that the most accurate AF-contrast.
when opening a case, for example, in the Kenon service, the standard letter immediately indicates that first you need to adjust the phase AF with the settings for the contrast settings :)
the famous Julia with Nikonru wears every lens and every carcass for adjustment to the service. in detail about adjustments - talk to Dmitry, you know him?
Nikon's service software considers it normal to adjust phase sensors in the range of -30 to +30 microns (to understand how much it is, the service software allows you to do focus within the range of -120 +120 microns), i.e. the setting of adjacent sensors (theoretically) can differ significantly (by 60 μm). Even if you bring a camera with a lens to the service and they are “adjusted” there, then at open apertures, adjacent sensors can give different focusing. And the service cannot set a smaller range of “correct” values in the software.
Yuri, you are right.
therefore, Nikoni and Kenon themselves in the manuals strongly recommend the use of more accurate contrast focusing if possible.
and different distances also require different corrections. this is especially noticeable on Sigma Art. their dock page allows you to enter different corrections at 3 distances. although it is necessary for 4.
after-yet about the specifics of phase AF :)
under different lighting conditions, it may be necessary to introduce different corrections. this again recently discussed in the photo ru. normally AF points work on fast lenses, on dark ones everything is not so rosy anymore. and AF points in the JVI do not quite coincide with the real AF points.
It’s also interesting when the amendment should be between 2 and 3 :) but due to the discretion of the settings, this cannot be done. :)
everything above - mirrorless cameras simply do not. direct focusing directly on the matrix.
Nevertheless, everyone is well aware that even during mirrorless boom, the mirror and phase focus will serve for a long time. Of course, each technology has certain limitations and disadvantages.
phase-detection AF - very fast, quite accurate after careful adjustment, works great at dusk.
which determines the list of tasks. cameras are primarily for professionals who understand why they need phase AF and how to set up new lenses for working with carcasses.
contrast mirrorless AF for lovers, for family photos and travel is more than enough, very accurate and does not require trips to the service and hour adjustments.
SLR-crop cameras without the ability to fine-tune AF and without fast contrasting AF are an order of magnitude worse for an amateur than a mirrorless camera. IMHO, of course!
http://evtifeev.com/31935-instruktsiya-na-programmu-reikan-focal-byistryiy-start-ne-ofitsialnaya-moya.html
one of the many options to combat the error in the settings of phase AF.
Experts help! Need an amateur DSLR for home and family, travel) Is it better to take a Nikon D3100 but with a lens 18-105 or more expensive Nikon D5100 but with a whale lens 18-55? Which fotik will be better for fotkat and is there any point in buying a cheap fotik with an 18-105 lens? Or is it not enough for professional shooting 18-55?
do mercy, at least read a little what is written on the page !!!!
HALF OF THE LAST PAGE ASKED FOR THIS QUESTION AND ANSWERED IT !!!
Take a picture, an iPhone will be good, and a SLR camera is a serious tool, even
for a home for a family, and even with one lens for all cases, it is best to buy a mirrorless camera.
the choice is huge. and the video there is often much better than in the SLR.
What decent mirrorless advise?
Fuji Xe-2, Fuji xt10, Sony Nex5, Sony Nex7, and their continuation of the series.
Why are mirrorless cameras much more expensive than the same Nikon 3100,5100?
Because the ones I mentioned are not the initial, five-year-old, the cheapest DSLRs, but more than sophisticated ones, often tops of the mirrorless series.
If you are interested in cheap mirrorless cameras, then you can look at Nikon 1J1 and Fuji x-a1. But how would they differ from those indicated, as d3100 from d610. and taking them off - there are some ummm .. inconveniences, especially children.
Although Fuji has a very inexpensive one now, but in terms of convenience, a very good camera - X-M1. She has one problem - focusing only in contrast, and is inferior in cramped conditions even to the d3100. but a rotary screen, and a very compact size.
True, the stock lens (17-50 / 3,5-5,6) is rather dull in quality and it is better to take a carcass and buy some of Fujik's “pancakes”, or a mega-awesome 35 / 1,4
If you are interested in cheap mirrorless, you can look at Nikon 1J1
================================================== ==================
Nikon 1 is a monstrously unsuccessful development of Nikon.
kit lens in J1 - development defects, recall.
matrix - problems with color (it simply does not exist), the noise is already at ISO 200, do not get anything out of the RAV. there are no semitones - see the comparison with a soap box on my Yandex, a soap box removes better)))
crop 2.7 - for the system camera - beyond good and evil.
optics are amazingly soapy at horse prices, and there are very few of them. and where are these sizes? Sony's crop 1.5 has half the optics.
according to nikon himself, nikon 1 brought 30% of the losses of the entire photo unit. We sold Nikon 1 with 75% discounts, there were no queues. )))
are you even in the subject? your advice is similar to the classics about the "rapid jack"))))
Can you advise what you tried?
why so much?
See Olympus. See Sony A5100. a big difference?
BZ are now popular, companies skim cream)))
on the other hand, the Nikon 3100,5100 is discontinued. old cameras.
compare with D3300 and D5300 - is the price very different?
Fuji Xe-2, Fuji xt10, Sony Nex5, Sony Nex7, and their continuation of the series.
=======================================
a person is little familiar with reality once gives such advice.
sony nexes - problems with overheating of the matrix.
partially fixed the problem in the new A6000 and A5100.
That's it on Sony A5100 and pay attention as an option.
Of the minuses of Sony, there is no normal optics at a normal price.
fuji - he2 - fuji ht10 and so on from fuji.
crazy price. very expensive optics. problem with AF. problems with post-processing.
the picture shows a standard Sony matrix from D5100 but a color filter developed by Fuja.
such a filter does not give any advantages. Fuj uses strong RAV processing (for more details, see the Internet).
I would not recommend fuj if there isn’t a very big discount or if you are not a fan of fuj (like a lynx)
from very cheap mirrorless cameras - Kenon M2. minus - slow AF.
but you can use optics ZK Kenon.
maybe ourselves
Oh my God! again this dude with d5100.
Oh my God! again the lynx is not the topic of trolls. Well, I don’t have d5100 :)))
NO! )))))))))) as there is no D7000 and even D7100))))
as there is no and your gadget frames with which you could not guess.
I have had FF for a long time, more precisely - two FF)))
would you at least invent something new for a change? )))
you give weird advice. advise Nikon 1 J1 after a long list of her problems and recalls?
Nexes in the presence of A5100 on the market?
hemorrhoidal super-expensive fuji?
since you prefer the address "dude", I'll tell you straight - dude, are you either not in the subject or advise people as personal enemies))))
Buy three FFs. )) Maybe you can better understand the technique?
well, well, where do I directly advise Nikon Ji?
Well, besides your fantasies from the inability to read / understand what is written?
The fact that you can not afford it (or, perhaps, you are not able to master working with it), a very good technique such as fuji, does not indicate its incorrectness. )))
Lynx
27.09.2015 in 18: 32
well, well, where do I directly advise Nikon Ji?
==============================================
Lynx
27.09.2015/11/29 at XNUMX:XNUMX Reply
If you are interested in cheap mirrorless, then you can look at Nikon 1J1 and Fuji x-a1.
=====================================
No need to look at Nikon 1J1. This is a super problem camera under a break with a very bad picture, ergonomics and reliability.
are you tired of dodging? we already discussed your knowledge in fuj in a profile topic, they impressed me very much.)))))
Then you fantasize that I have 5100. Do you have a fad about D5100? do you hate him for what? it is just a technique. Well, like a hammer)))
you are attaching some "deffochek" to this device.
Once again, my opinion is that today there are not frankly bad DSLRs. most produce an almost identical picture. much more important, optics and the photographer himself)))
mirrorless cameras are obviously killing the budget crop of DSLRs. this is already a fact today. In many cases, Sony, OLIKA, even Kenon mirrorless cameras are often a much better choice than budget DSLRs. and nothing can be done about it!
The fact that you can not afford it (or, perhaps, you are not able to master working with it), a very good technique such as fuji, does not indicate its incorrectness. )))
===========================
Another illogical fantasy from Lynx.
then I can afford D800, Mark 3 and optics to them but not afford Fuji x-trance? ))))))))))
open any frame with X-trans in an editor that does not support hidden improvers from Fuji. any questions? Arkady is aware of this, read Dmitry’s articles if you yourself cannot do such a test.
the fact that the prices for fuji are too high is common knowledge. compare prices for optics of the same nikon and fuja)))
Once again, try to understand the subject of discussion BEFORE you start to fantasize! )))
Well, who knows, what if you are an office manager from Moscow with d800 - “sitting on a doshirak for months, but you got Ford Focus on credit - Stomach in the trash, but“ like real guys! ” ))
Lynx, this picture is for you.
Do you have some ghouls and industrial? Do not be jealous of those with the Mark 3 and D800.
I don’t think the D5100 is bad just because I have Mark 3.
I don’t think other budget crop of Kenon, Nikon and Sony are bad only because I have D800.
I generally like cheap oliki with crop 2.0. and I’m shooting on the phone (horror!) and even on the soap dish.
and I will sell D800, lying on a shelf.
and you- look at the picture again. envy does not decorate.
the troll is not the best title to strive for)
however, with your love for d5100, but how fiercely you hate getting drunk)) Judging by the comments and tons of photos “proving something to someone”.
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By the way, the third mark is a highly overvalued machine and I am generally quite indifferent to top-end canons. And the 550d is a very useful workhorse.
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Pfft. I have many titles and reputations, even on this site. For example, they have repeatedly said to me “thank you for your help,” and I am really proud of that. And you?