The Nikon D700 is a full format Nikon FX camera and is Nikon's second full format DSLR camera. The camera was introduced in the summer of 2007 and is now the cheapest full frame from Nikon (unless, of course, film cameras) Most photographers attribute the Nikon D700 to reportage cameras.
Legendary Nikon D700 with booster MB-D10 and lens Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor (MKIII)
I have been using Nikon D700 for a little over 3 years, during which time I have changed several of these cameras.
Nikon D700 is a professional camera, it has no automatic modes shooting. This camera is designed for people who know the basic skills of working with photographic equipment and for whom it will not be difficult to work in semi-automatic or manual modes P, A, S, M.
Example shot on a Nikon D700
Nikon D700 - heavy, dustproof and waterproof chamber with uncompromising metal alloy housing. But trouble, trouble, over time, the gum on the handle and throughout the camera body swell, peel off, and badly spoil the nerves. In addition, the lateral rubber plug for different connectors after swelling of the rubber does not want to close and constantly hangs. On my last Nikon D700, I just cut off this stub. Hanging gum and dummy plugs for PC-sync under studio light and contacts for the remote control. You can replace the rubber bands in the service center, but they take a lot of money for this pleasure, and the rubber bands come from China for quite a long time.
Example photo on Nikon D700
My Nikon D700 cameras are badly worn out from fighting, which is why metal began to appear under their black paint. Due to its heavy weight, the Nikon D700 distributes weight well with heavy lenses like the 70-200 / 2.8. It is best to use a Nikon D700 with a battery grip.
Example photo on Nikon D700
We accelerate the Nikon D700 to the cherished 8 fps
In normal mode, the Nikon D700 can shoot at a speed of 5 fps (with any image quality settings, color depth and compression level RAW) Using battery pack MB-D10 or network adapter EH-5a / EH-5, the speed can grow up to 8 fps. But, to make the camera shoot at a speed of 8 fps, one MB-D10 not enough. You need to use a special holder MS-D10 with 8 AA cells (batteries or rechargeable batteries). The MS-D10 holder is supplied with MB-D10. Also, 8 fps can be achieved using a more capacious battery. EN-EL4 (from cameras Nikon D2h, D2hs, D2x, D2xs) Or EN-EL4a (from cameras Nikon D3s, D3, D3x), but this requires the optional BL-3 cover (which is not included with the MB-D10). In addition, if you buy a battery EN-EL4 or EN-EL4a, you will have to additionally buy and charge Nikon MH-21 / Nikon MH-22 for it. If in MB-D10 use a regular standard battery EN-EL3e, then the burst speed will not change. Battery pack MB-D10 equally suitable for D300, D300S and D700.
Recently, I have been using Nikon D700 with a booster MB-D10 and one EN-EL3e battery. I want to note that the booster (battery pack / portrait grip) MB-D10 performed not logically. Only one battery is inserted into the booster, the second is inserted into the battery compartment of the camera itself. As a result, to use the camera with two batteries, you need to remove the booster from the camera, insert the battery into it and reinstall the booster. I think this method is stupid, impractical and in general, after the bustare from Nikon D200, such illogical behavior is just a mockery of the photographer.
Example shot on a Nikon D700
Unpleasant feature of batteries No. 1
At low temperatures (not necessarily freezing), the camera does not fully release the shutter, and an error message 'Err' appears on the display. To resume camera functionality, just press the shutter button again, after which it will perform a full cycle and you can continue shooting. This behavior in cold weather is most likely due to a drop in battery capacity, which is not enough power for a full shutter release cycle. The repairmen say that diaphragm drummer absorbs a lot of energy and this problem can be observed with many Nikon cameras. This feature is also observed when working with a booster. In any case, in cameras of this level I would like not to encounter such unpleasant features. I get around this shortcoming with 'warmed up' batteries, of which I have 6 spare pieces.
Unpleasant feature of batteries No. 2
When using non-native (Chinese counterparts) batteries with a battery pack, the camera often reports that the battery is completely discharged. At the same time, if you install it in the main battery slot, which is located in the camera, then everything will work fine.
Trouble number 3
With the active use of external flashes, the hot shoe of the Nikon D700 camera breaks, after which the flash begins to behave similarly poltergeist. Even if you put the camera on a table or a tripod, install any flash, for example, the native Nikon SB-910, the flash can turn on any of its functions on its own. Usually a malfunction manifests itself in the fact that the camera stops “seeing” the flash, or blocks the shutter release, the flash can spontaneously give any number of pulses of any power (you can burn your eyes), the flash focusing grid is activated, etc. If you move the flash in the hot shoe a little, the problem goes away for a few seconds. Clamping the metal contacts of the hot shoe only solves the problem for a while. It is treated by replacing the shoe.
Example photo on Nikon D700
The camera has a great small monochrome displayon which all the basic settings are available. I write small because, compared to Nikon D200, D300, D300s the monochrome display has decreased, since the Nikon D700 uses a large pentaprism, which pushed and reduced the secondary display. The monochrome display has a pleasant green backlight, which is turned on using the camera's power lever. The monochrome display saves battery power and simplifies camera setup and shooting.
Sample photo on Nikon D700
The main display of the Nikon D700 at 920.000 points, the same as that of the cameras Nikon D90, D300, D300s, D7000, D3, D3s, D3x. The display is nice and has a protective cover that I never take off. You can adjust the brightness of the display for yourself.
Nikon D700 uses big and fast cards CF. My Nikon D700 works with a 32GB 400x card without any problems.
Nikon D700 is not big at all frame buffer. Depending on the type and format of the image, the buffer can hold a maximum 18 RAW shots (at conventional compression, 12 bit RAW), 15 shots of Tiff, 24JPEG L FINE (size priority). I almost never saw information in reviews about the fact that some functions reduce the number of frames in the buffer. Because, attention: if you enable ADL, noise reduction at slow shutter speeds and high ISOs, frame buffer reduced to 6 shots - this is a very, very bad indicator. But, even if you take the maximum - 18 RAW files with disabled additional settings to improve images, this is 3 frames less than in the ancient professional Nikon D200.
Given that the maximum shooting speed is 8 fps, with the Nikon D700 you can shoot series no longer than 3 seconds. So, the Nikon D700 is not quite suitable for serious reporting. Frame buffer - one of the main indicators of camera performance and speed. Well, if it is very important to shoot in series in RAW, then in DX mode the buffer can hold as much as 26 frames (with normal compression and 12-bit color depth).
Example shot on a Nikon D700
Nikon D700 camera has everything 12.1 effective megapixels... This is small enough for a full frame camera. A small number of megapixels increases the diffraction threshold. CMOS sensor type, Nikon D700 is the first full frame matrix from Nikon, because it is not the most ideal. In a number of characteristics, the D700 is inferior even to amateur cameras. Nikon D7000, D5100... Full frame is not a panacea for image quality. In general, I do not recommend chasing the number of megapixels, for more details in my article Battle of Megapixels.
Wedding photography for the Nikon D700 is not a problem at all
Nikon D700 has built-in focus motorthat allows you to automatically focus with AF optics, for example, with Nikon 50mm F1.8D, Nikon 85mm F / 1.8D AF Nikkor and other AF lenses.
For measuring exposure thrown out 3D Color Matrix Metering II with 1005 zones. The camera works wonderfully even with old AI-S, Pre-ai lenses. In principle, froze exposure available and tin can instead of lens, and even without a lens at all. The camera can memorize 10 manual lenses. I love to use Nikon D700 with Soviet lenses, since the camera has an electronic rangefinder (arrows near the green dot, which suggest which direction to rotate the focus ring on manual lenses).
Full-length portrait on Nikon D700
At the camera 51 focus points, 15 of which are cruciform. After using the camera for a long time, I do not feel the difference between cross-shaped and regular focus points at all. A serious focusing drawback is the fact that all points are placed only on the DX area of the camera - you cannot focus at the edges of the frame. Focus module MultiCAM 3500FX use older cameras Nikon D3, D3s, D3x.
The camera has a main ISO range from 200 to 6400 and an expanded from 100 (1) to 25.600 (hi 2). It's a shame that the Nikon D700 does not have a true ISO 100. The shortest excerpt the camera is 1 \ 8000c. Funny but one of the first Nikon D1h could shoot at 1 \ 16.000. Short excerpt and minimum ISO are very important when using fast lenses.
Example shot on a Nikon D700
Nikon D700 can control flash according to the protocol Nikon CLS. Funny but before the release Nikon D800 (D800E) The XNUMX was the only full-frame camera with built-in flash. Yes, that's right, in Nikon D3, D3s, D3x, D4, D4s, Df there is no flash at all, therefore, the SU-800 module is recommended for flagship cameras. You can read how to control flashes in the section about Nikon CLS. Many do not respect the built-in flash frog, but in skillful hands it turns into an ideal flash synchronization device. Of course, the Nikon D700 has fast flash synchronization and can shoot in FP mode with flash for at least 1/8000 s, in more detail in the section on flash in the afternoon.
The battery on the camera is quite powerful, without a flash it easily fulfills 1000-1500 shots. The battery is completely identical to Nikon D80, D90, D200, D300, D300s and compatible with D100, D70, D70s, D50 (but not vice versa).
Nikon D700 behaves well in the studio
A thousand and one useful things: bracketing, control HA in JPEG, vignetting control, virtual horizon, Live View, viewing depth of field, multiple exposure, matrix cleaning, interval shooting, etc. If you have questions about small things, write in the comments, I will try to answer quickly.
If you take the matrix and the stuffing from the flagship camera Nikon D3, and shove it into the case from Nikon D300 (Nikon D300s), we get the Nikon D700.
With Nikon D700 and a cheap fifty dollars, you can squeeze a lot
About Nikon D700 and Nikon D3, I highlight the main differences in bold.
- Different level... Nikon D700 is professional and Nikon D3 - flagship professional camera. In any case, Nikon D3 is positioned for a different circle of photographers.
- Different body. And therefore, Nikon D3 has better ergonomics of management, more capacious battery.
- Nikon D700 has dust cleaning matrixand the Nikon D3 doesn't have one.
- Nikon D700 takes off 1 f slowerthan Nikon D3
- Nikon D700 has another pentaprism with less coverage, covering only 95% of the picture.
- Nikon D700 only one slot for memory cardsThe Nikon D3 has two. Professionals value this feature in the Nikon D3 very highly.
- Funny but Nikon D3 does not have a built-in flash, and the Nikon D700 has, from here comes up a whole series of Nikon D700 work options with Nikon CLS with groups of flashes. I really appreciate this feature.
- Different shutter. Nikon D700 will last two times less than Nikon D3
- Various little things in the menu settings, etc.
Speaking on the case, I did not use Nikon D3, but, given that the cameras have the same matrix and the same focusing system, the image quality and functionality are very close. Now both cameras are outdated, as Nikon D3s, D4, D4s, D5 are much better than these two old ladies.
Example on Nikon D700
About Nikon D700, D600, D800,D800E:
| D600 | D700 | D800 (E) | |
| Pixels | 24MP | 12MP | 36MP |
| Native shooting speed k / s | 5,5 | 5 | 4 |
| Maximum possible speed k \ s | 5,5 | 8 | 6 |
| Number of Focus Points | 39 | 51 | 51 |
| Cruciform sensors | 9 | 15 | 15 |
| Focus Sensors at F / 5.6-F / 8.0 | 33 | 0 | 15 |
| Focus Sensors at F / 8.0 | 7 | 0 | 11 |
| ISO | 100-6400 | 200-6400 | 100-6400 |
| Maximum high ISO | 25600 | 25600 | 25600 |
| Maximum low ISO | 50 | 100 | 50 |
| Minimum speed excerpts | 1 / 4000s | 1 / 8000s | 1 / 8000s |
| Minimum sync speed | 1 / 250s | 1 / 320s | 1 / 320s |
| Chassis | Part from M. alloy | Magnesium alloy | Magnesium alloy |
| Memory cards | 2 X SD(HC, XC) | 1 x CF | CF+ SD(HC, XC) |
| Video | 1920 x 1080 | no | 1920 x 1080 |
| Display | 3.2 in | 3 in | 3.2 in |
| Dots on display | 921000 | 921000 | 921000 |
| Viewfinder Coverage | 100% | 95% | 100% |
| Viewfinder Zoom | 0,7h | 0.72x | 0,7h |
| Weight with battery | 850g | 1075g | 900 |
| RAW Buffer (FX Mode) | 15 | 18 | 16 |
| HDR | Yes | no | Yes |
| RAW | Compression only | Without compression | Without compression |
| Measurement exposure | 2016 pixels | 1005 pixels | 91000 pixels |
| Shutter | 150000 | 150000 | 200000 |
I note that Nikon D600 and Nikon D700 - these are cameras of different levels, despite the fact that the D700 is much older Nikon D600, but still its 'charm' is noticeably better than the 600. In choise Nikon D800, D700, D600 I would adhere to this sequence, leaving the budget: Nikon D810 -> Nikon D800E -> Nikon D800 -> Nikon D750 -> Nikon DF -> Nikon D610 -> Nikon D600 -> Nikon D700. Nikon 810a will be chosen only by experts in their field.
Sample photo on Nikon D700
Interesting options for setting up and managing the Nikon D700:
- You can set the center selector button to view captured images at a specific magnification. Roughly speaking, when viewing a picture, with one press of the central button of the selector (joystick), you can get an increase in any area of the picture. This is very useful for checking sharpness. Moreover, the increase is done at the focus point (or group of points), according to which the picture was taken.
- I adjust the FN button for auto ISO controls. This is not so easy to do, which is the strong minus of the camera. To do this, add the item “Auto. management feels. ISO ”, and in the function key programming menu select“ Call. top. item MY MENU ”. The button is configured via the “INFO” menu.
- I program the preview button to select the manual lens. Moreover, it is very inconvenient that you can only select the lens number with the specified parameters. On my Nikon D200 with this setting, it was also possible to change the parameters of the lens, which is very useful when using lenses with manual aperture controls and zoom lenses. The button is configured via the “INFO” menu.
- I program the AE-L / AF-L button for the 'Live View' mode, after which the Live View mode becomes more familiar for the convenience of switching on, for example, as on Nikon D90. By the way Auto focus in Live View is only available in AF-S mode and only with the AF-ON button and only when 'tripod' mode is selected.
- I turn off the audible focus alert, which greatly disturbs and annoys some people when shooting, for example in церкви.
- In the playback menu, you can configure the camera so that the focus points that participated in focusing (on which the subject was focused) are displayed in the image when viewing images. This is done through the "Display Mode" submenu.
- Focus mode AF-C set to shutter priority, and AF-S to focus priority. You can find useful information on working with these modes here.
- All other settings (and previous ones too) can be customized to taste and needs. Do not forget that the Nikon D700 has several banks of settings that you can save and change. More details about this here.
Nikon D700 portrait example and rare manual lens
More examples of photos with RAW source files obtained with Nikon D700 can be viewed and / or downloaded in the following reviews:
- YONGNUO 35mm 1: 2 (YN35mm F2N)
- Nikon AF-S Nikkor 70-200mm 1: 2.8GII ED N VR Nano Crystal Coat SWM IF (portraits available)
- YONGNUO LENS YN50mm F1.4N E
- Nikon AF Nikkor 85mm 1: 1.8 (portraits available)
- Nikon Nikkor 85mm 1: 1.4 (portraits available)
- Sigma 50mm 1: 1.4 DG HSM EX (portraits available)
- Nikon N AF-S Nikkor 70-200mm 1: 4G ED SWM VR IF Nano Crystal Coat (portraits and reportage available)
- Tokina Macro 100 F2.8 D AT-X PRO N / AIS (portraits available)
- Nikon AF Nikkor 35-135mm 1: 3.5-4.5 (there are portraits in the review)
- Sigma 50mm 1: 2.8 DG Macro D EX (various scenes)
- Nikon N AF-S Nikkor 24-120mm 1: 4G ED VR SWM IF Aspherical Nano Crystal Coat (reportage and portraits)
- Sigma 70-200mm 1: 2.8 APO DG HSM EX Optical Stabilizer (different stories in the review)
- NIKON ED AF-S NIKKOR 28-300mm 1: 3.5-5.6G SWM VR IF Aspherical (various scenes)
- Voigtlander Nokton 58mm F1.4 SL N / AI-S (a lot of bokeh in the review)
- Nikon AF Nikkor 35-105mm 1: 3.5-4.5 (indoor portraits)
- Tokina AT-X SD 100-300mm 1: 4 (there are portraits)
- Sigma AF Zoom APO 70-210mm 1: 2.8 (portraits available)
- Nikon AF Nikkor 35-105mm 1: 3.5-4.5 D (in the review photo of the autumn)
- Sigma High-Speed Wide 28mm 1: 1.8 Multi-Coated Aspherical (in the autumn photo review)
- Nikon AF NIKKOR 20-35mm 1: 2.8D (landscapes)
- MC TAIR-3S 4,5 / 300 (different scenes at different ISOs)
- Tamron SP AF Aspherical LD [IF] 28-105mm 1: 2.8 276D (many autumn photos in the review)
- Tamron AF LD 200-400mm 1: 5.6 75DN
- Sigma Zoom 15-30mm D 1: 3.5-4.5 DG EX Aspherical IF (in the autumn photo review)
- Nikon AF Nikkor 35-70mm 1: 2.8 (just color pictures)
- Quantaray - NF AF 1: 3.5-4.5 f = 35-70mm Multi-Coated (outdoor)
- Nikon 80-200mm AF Nikkor 1: 4.5-5.6D (flowers, street)
- Cosina 70-210mm 1: 2.8-4 MC Macro (nature)
- Nikon AF Nikkor 24mm 1: 2.8 (MKII version)
- MC HELIOS-44M-4 58mm 1: 2
- Nikon ED AF Nikkor 300mm 1: 4
- Sigma Zoom 28-70mm 1: 2.8 (miscellaneous)
- Nikon AF Micro Nikkor 60mm 1: 2.8D (colors)
- YONGNUO 40mm 1: 2.8
- Nikon N AF-S Micro Nikkor 60mm 1: 2.8G SWM ED IF Aspherical Nano Crystal Coat (macro)
- SIGMA ZOOM 28-105mm D 1: 2.8-4 Aspherical (miscellaneous)
- Nikon 180mm 1: 2.8D ED AF Nikkor MKIV (Street Photography)
- Tamron SP AF 20-40 1: 2.7-3.5 Aspherical 266D (street shooting)
- Nikon ED AF Nikkor 18-35mm 1: 3.5-4.5D IF Aspherical
- YONGNUO LENS YN 14mm F 2.8 N
- Nikon AF Nikkor 35mm 1: 2 (MKI) (miscellaneous)
- YONGNUO LENS 100mm 1: 2
- Nikon AF DC-Nikkor 105mm 1: 2 D Defocus Image Control (studio)
- Sigma EX 85mm 1: 1.4 DG HSM (portraits available)
- Nikon ED AF VR-Nikkor 80-400mm 1: 4.5-5.6D Vibration Reduction (portraits and high ISO available)
- Sigma Zoom 24-135mmD 1: 2.8-4.5 (miscellaneous, portraits)
- Nikon AF Nikkor 28-70mm 1: 3.5-4.5D
- Tamron DI SP 70-300mm F / 4-5.6 VC USD A005NII
- Nikon ED AF Nikkor 70-300mm 1: 4-5.6D (there are portraits and high ISO)
- Sigma 170-500mm 1: 5-6.3D APO
- Nikon N AF-S Nikkor 28mm 1: 1.8G Nano Crystal Coat SWM RF Aspherical
- Yongnuo YN60mm F2NE MF MACRO
- Nikon ED AF Nikkor 80-200mm 1: 2.8D (MKII)
- Yongnuo YN 85mm F1.8N
- Nikon ED AF-S Nikkor 80-200mm 1: 2.8D (gray)
- Nikon AF-S Nikkor 85mm 1: 1.8G IF SWM (many portraits)
- Tokina AT-X PRO 28-80 1: 2.8 Aspherical N / AIS (miscellaneous)
- Sigma Auto Focus UC ZOOM 70-210mm 1: 4-5.6 Multi-Coated
- Nikon ED AF-S Nikkor 300mm 1: 4D IF Silent Wave Motor
Personal experience:
Nikon D700 is a very good camera. I work as a photographer and really appreciate her 51 point focus, quick response. It's funny, but all 51 focus points are in the DX area of the image, it seems that the Nikon D700 is not Nikon Multi-CAM 3500FXand Nikon Multi-CAM 3500DX from Nikon D300 (details here) Also, exposure meters Nikon D700 is afraid of flare. For example, when shooting in a church, if a small light source in the form of a candle enters the frame, matrix and centrally weighted measurements take a strongly underexposed frame. The dynamic range of the camera is small, Nikon D7000 it is much higher, but do not blame the old Nikon D700, because it is the first full frame matrix from Nikon. Also, the Nikon D700 is one of the few cameras that has a useful Live View mode and at the same time does not need to overpay for the video function. When viewing an image in Live View, it is very slow. For example, Live View at Nikon D90 much better "understands", especially when enlarging an area of the image. Often, Nikon D700 is the first FF camera for photographers, and whether it's worth switching to full frame at all - everyone must decide for himself, perhaps my article will help with this. 'Crop identification'. Regarding the matrix noise: yes, Nikon D700 bypasses any Nikon DX camera in terms of noise, there is nowhere to hide the cat in the bag. Regarding the recommendation of lenses for use: it all depends on the needs and tasks of the photographer.
D700 and skinton
Some do not like the way the camera conveys skin color (skin tone). Indeed, sometimes you can seriously complain about this. But for the Nikon D700 (and also for Nikon D300, D300s, D3, D3s and D3x) there is one unusual solution - to shoot in RAW, which then needs to be 'developed' using Nikon ViewNX (Nikon ViewNX-I) or CaptureNX (CaptureNX-D), while making sure to select Picture Control (Picture Control Mode) 'M1 D2Xmode1 ', or 'M2 D2Xmode2', 'M3 D2Xmode3' to your liking. These are special picture management sets that mimic the operation of cameras. Nikon D2x и D2xs... Try it, the result is sometimes very, very pleasantly surprised. So, the 'M1 D2Xmode1' is best for portrait photography.
For those who do not want to bother with RAW files: these same image management modes can be installed right into the camera by downloading them on the official website here to register:.
On the net you can find the same profiles for Lighroom and ACR ( link), after which working with RAW files can turn into a pleasure. Also, I advise you to look into my note about RAW converters.
Live, die and live again!
A little addition: after 150.000 shots at one of the weddings, I refused camera mirror... The cause of the breakdown - the mirror lever broke, the repair at the official service center in Kiev took over 1 month and stood at around $ 650, as they explained, in the D700 all the mirror, shutter and diaphragm mechanisms are connected, so the entire front mirror bay had to be changed ... After the repair, the frame counter showed 10 pictures.
Another small addition: I got another Nikon D700 camera, I bought it second-hand with a range of about 10.000 frames. At 330.000 frames, problems started with mirror sticking.
Example shot on a Nikon D700
Prices for modern Nikon cameras in popular stores can look at this link.
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Results
Nikon D700 - Nikon's most affordable full-frame digital SLR camera.
I do not recommend to beginners - it is heavy and requires an understanding of photography techniques.
I do not recommend to professionals - the potential of other full-size cameras will last for many years to come.
Elder Nikon D700 is interesting only for the price and full frame. I recommend Nikon D700 for upgrade after old DX cameras as budget option FX camera.
Nikon D700 is a long-running legend.
Nikon D700 is one of Nikon's most balanced cameras. Until now (in the summer of 2016) there is no full replacement for her. Nikon D750 - not at all. It is Nikon D700, not Nikon D300, that can be considered a reduced copy of the TOP Nikon D3.
Have questions about Nikon D700? Ask them in the comments, I have been using this model for a very long time and I know a lot about it.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram
I really like the picture and the skintones on the d700. I do not have time to process photos, so the result with compression with standard settings tired me and people who watch photos. It seems to me that the camera has many user options in which you can achieve any results. Compared to the d90 and d7000, this is a step forward, especially in poor light. What I always lacked.
It's funny since the D90 and D7000 released after the D700. But of course, I understand what you mean.
Arkady tell me how to better customize the user menu and it is white balance. It seems to me that my device sometimes falters with auto balance, especially in rooms with poor light. Thanks.
It’s better to configure as you like, and bb the way you like.
In the section “My menu” I have the items “ISO sensitivity settings”, “grid display in the viewfinder”, “battery information”, “built-in flash control” - what I often use.
In poor light, the D700 may not produce a nice picture, this is normal.
How not to try to avoid edits, but if you shoot in poor light, you still need to edit the white balance. There is a situation when there is simply not enough light, and here only the ISO rises and the D700 performs well: the colors on it remain quite working. But there are situations when there seems to be enough light, but it has the wrong temperature, and it can even be from multidirectional sources with different temperatures. Here, a lot depends on your ability to choose the right angle, correctly set the WB settings on the camera, correctly record information about the light and correctly process the final frame. No camera can automatically correctly set the BB for the photographer. I often see amateurs completely neglect the correct BB and do not worry about it, considering their shots to be good. In fact, over time, you get used to seeing the wrong light in a photograph, and if you wish, you can master and work with it.
And what is the maximum CF card capacity supported by the D700? Will he see for example 64 or 128 GB?
Initially (and this is reflected in the instructions) support for cards of this size is not provided. But when SunDisk released the 64GB Nikon D300s CF card, the D700, D3 and D3X were able to work with it after updating their firmware. Look for information or feedback on a specific card model. And do you really need 64 GB - after all, the D700 has not the largest raw materials, and it allows you to record them with compression and with a choice of 12/14 bits. Often times, the D700 can easily get by with a smaller card.
Thank you, Valentine! The fact is that I have a lot of CF cards of all kinds, but there are no less than 64 gigs, and work experience suggests that it is always better to have a good supply.
So you can take a 64GB card and try it in working with the D700, for example, before you buy this camera. This, of course, will show only the ability to work with this card (yes / no), but not its stability. I just treat the memory card as a consumable, which must immediately be included in the budget (for example, also as a battery, especially if you take a used camera).
Please tell me what to take in addition to the D7100. I decide between the D600 (610) and the D700 (I don’t want to spend more on it yet). I shoot macro, nature, portraits of relatives, children (amateur). I really do not like the colors of 7100 under artificial lighting, and I also want to try the FF already, since there are lenses.
For myself, I see such advantages in 600 - old familiar batteries from 7100, the same body, the same two Sd cards, and a larger matrix + video, 100% viewfinder coverage. But I don't like the problem with the oil, 39 focus points, and the price is about $ 800 for used. Yes, and the photos look a little like the result with 7100 - wouldn't he also lie with the skin tone?
The 700 likes 51 focus points, the possibility of interval shooting, the low price, quite nice photos, the presence of a large number of familiar settings. I am pleased with the reviews about fast focusing - I need it for filming my son.
The camera with high ISOs, for example 2500, raises questions, I often have to use this to shoot a child in a room.
The d700 does not like peeled rubber bands (well, they can be ordered on aliexpress), CF cards (can also be ordered), the inability to use a wifi adapter from 7100 and batteries, a small matrix (is it small? I still squeeze all the frames after processing by 2000x3000 pixels) video is not critical, for this I have a video camera.
The price for the D700 is $ 500, the difference is felt. Also a battery pack as a gift!
I understand that a penny-worthy camera and a top FF both do the same thing - they shoot.
I don't need a super speed of 100 frames per minute, video, a bunch of MP and other bells and whistles - for all this I will leave my 7100. But I would like to get a good picture at high ISO, no problems with skin tone (since 7100 is incredibly disfiguring!) I have already looked at the photos at low ISO in the article - I really liked everything, and by the colors too)
I care if the D700 is really out of date? is it worth buying it in 2018? After all, it remains one of the most accessible FFs ...
Which camera do you think will be better? Or wait for the D750 price decline?
Maybe there is some site where you can compare test photos with one and the other model to see all the noise and color reproduction?
I really hope for an answer.
Happy New Year!!!!
Good day. D700 is not suitable for work because of its age. She has a critical problem after 150.000 frames with a mirror. Those. it is advisable to take it only with low mileage.
Otherwise, 600/610 is preferred. I have repeatedly pointed out that despite the fact that the d700 is higher in class than 600/610, the rest are still more preferable to the old d700.
Thank you for quick answer!
Maria, D7100 is a very good amateur camera. I declare with complete responsibility that she does not suffer from any special vices that would not be found in other Nikon cells (and not Nikon either). Shooting in artificial light (as well as in low light, in the wrong light temperature, with side and backlight) requires skills and additional equipment. Both Arkady and many other photographers can definitely confirm to you that with such problems, you can take excellent shots with devices lower than the D7100. Working with skin tone is also a separate skill, and not the exclusive merit of the camera. If you have free money, think about purchasing at least good optics and a flash for your D7100. You also need to master the technique of setting colors and white balance, working with portrait photography and skin tone. If this is difficult for you, invest in courses on these issues. This will give you more than the second carcass. I've tried different carcasses. Do not believe me - rent the carcass and shoot it, if possible.
By the way, I did not notice a good color in the photos with the d700. everything is acidic like d90. d7100 is better in this sense
An old topic ... Arkady has a lot of photos on the D90 and D700 taken without processing, about which the language can not be called acidic. D40 / D60 / D80 in bad light from the box also give an ugly picture. I agree that starting with the D300 Nikon's approach to color reproduction has changed, so that, for example, in the shade, even with sufficient light by default, the light skin of Europiode began to look worse. The rest of the cameras work better. I know people who want nice color right out of the camera and right in jpeg. They spent a lot of money on various carcasses and optics, but they stubbornly refuse to master even a simple raw converter. Their choice and their right.
Masha, skinton is folklore. Do not bother yourself with all sorts of nonsense. You can get a beautiful skin tone on any camera. Need the right light, competent BB and the corresponding lens. Here I support Valentine. At home, in ordinary light, you won’t get a beautiful skinton for any equipment. Well, maybe only after dancing with a tambourine in Photoshop.
Thanks! Yes, after all, when shooting outdoors during the day, the 7100 transmits everything normally ... my lenses are Nikon's 35,50 and 85 1.8G. There is a flash, but I do not take the child with it, maybe it will be harmful for him, God forbid to blind the boy (once she accidentally made a light in her eyes, she could not move away for 10 minutes).
In general, does it make sense to switch from 7100 to FF? I often come across such advice that, they say, there is not much difference between crop and FF ...
there is hardly any harm from the outbreak. and banning a child’s ban doesn’t hurt :)
Dr. Komarovsky also believes that the outbreak is not harmful. I saw the video, google now, here is his answer to the question in the article
http://articles.komarovskiy.net/rebenok-i-fotovspyshka-vredno-ili-net-2.html
Still, babies should not be photographed with flash. And strangely, in the instructions for the outbreaks it is written, but in the tyrnet they write what they can. Something on the site did not find a copy of Komarovsky's diploma ...
Direct eye flashes are best avoided. Often they take pictures this way - they are blind with both an in-camera flash and a phone flash. A good external flash avoids this. For some flashes, Nikon has an application “Collection of sample images”. There are many children's portraits shot with an external flash.
Maria, you did not write a flash model, but if it is a full-sized external flash, then when shooting with its direction to the ceiling, the light will gently scatter from the ceiling and give an excellent picture. The child does not need to direct the flash into the eyes, and when it shines into the ceiling there is no harm. If you have the optics you described and a normal flash, it’s not difficult to take a good portrait with a quite nice skin tone on the D7100, even if you don’t know how to process photos.
There is not just a difference between FF and crop, but in principle there is a considerable difference between different cameras. Keep in mind that the D7000 (and then the D7100 and D7200) became the cameras that are widely used by commercial photographers. The wedding is sometimes filmed in a very non-standard light, and the requirements for the quality of the images remain high. This is a good indicator of the quality of these cameras. Also, remember that the D700 is a professional camera and a big part of its price is a payment for a more durable body, for a longer shutter resource and filling, for better weather protection and reliability in operation, for greater manual control over the shooting process, including in studios. The quality of the picture will still depend more on the skill of the photographer, although it is definitely known that FF has advantages in a number of situations. Improving the picture is not guaranteed, but spending a large amount on a heavy brick with functions that you will not use.
It depends on which house ...
I was able to compare, for shooting under difficult conditions, the FF is very helpful, the atmosphere and skin tones when shooting portraits without a flash allow you to get a very interesting result, so Masha’s result of the D700 and D7100 in difficult conditions will be different.
For these conditions, a camera with a higher working ISO is only one option for shooting. These scenes are successfully shot at lower ISO settings. The crop is also suitable for them. A scene such as: a dark room, a cake with candles, the face of a child and parents - successfully cropped at low ISO without destroying (and vice versa, enhancing) the atmosphere of the picture. For this, the correct backlight temperature is set. The same is done in a cafe, club, etc. Light needs to be controlled.
I support Igor. If possible, you must always put your light on. It doesn't matter what your equipment and optics are. The cheapest Chinese flash on an umbrella can do wonders.
In principle, of course you are right, but you need a tripod, umbrellas. light again. But with FF can be removed from the hands. It is convenient on the street and indoors.
Racks or tripods are not always needed. Hundreds of successful shots in the light, which is considered insufficient and incorrect, on Yandex Photos (you can select for example Olympus OM-D E-M5, which is not just a crop, but a double crop), where the exif shows the shooting parameters to confirm this.
Arkady, you write that the d750 is already completely different. And something? I'm just taking a look. The d700 likes the picture, then how it works with most lenses. It resembles its picture of Nikon's flagship square carcasses. The same d750 certainly does not resemble.
The D750 is a different class of cameras with a million small details. I have written more than once that the 750 is from the 600/610 line.
That’s why I ask for a replacement. It seems to me that they did not come up with a replacement. But I am not an expert.
Greetings! An amateur, not a professional. Having D90 I decided to buy D700 (thanks in large part to this review, special thanks to Arkady). The quality of the photo turned out to be two - three heads higher! I put 50 / 1.8g on it and I'm not overjoyed, photos even just in Jpg come out voluminous and plastic. After the D90, there are no misses of autofocus, aimed and always on the point! I really recommend this camera, it's just a pleasure to shoot, it's very comfortable and well-assembled. And recently I went into the store and for fun held the D610 in my hands, it's just a plastic light toy compared to the D700)) I personally have enough pixels with my head, and the photo quality is very emotional!
Maybe there was a marriage in the D90 or something messed up with the settings. I just shot a lot with it, and did not notice any misses in focus with it either at 50 / 1,8G or at 50 / 1.4D. Well, about the immediately seen volume with plasticity from changing the D90 to D700 - this is certainly interesting. I don’t argue that the D700 is higher than the D90 in many respects (that’s why it is a professional carcass against an amateur one), but you have slightly exaggerated some things that you immediately saw as a drawing. Yes, the D700 is pleasant to own, the “full frame” (and not some crop) and “professional camera” (and not some kind of amateur toy) warms the soul. But still, for me, for an amateur D90 (and a similar class), a more balanced solution in terms of price / quality / ergonomics / weight and dimensions.
Precisely, the phrases “full frame” and “professional camera” have a lot more magic to the hobbyist than “medium format” or “camera for special tasks”. They start to dream about clicking on the "medium format" when they find out its price tag - it works automatically: for that kind of money, the camera should give out a miracle of the picture.
I confirm all the words, I went the same way, and I do not regret it a bit, the excellent device has a noticeable increase in the picture, but there are situations when everything seems to be different from crop-FF. Again, much depends on the photographer (and this is the light, the plot composition), all not for the sake of holivar.
Arkady, good afternoon, very interesting review, thank you. I just have a little question: what custom settings do you use for different types of photography, for example, a wedding. I shoot in M mode, like at the zenith))) without any noise reduction and other settings - as always, read the instructions and delve into the settings. Perhaps I'm wrong and don't use the full potential of the camera, especially in difficult constantly changing conditions ??? Help me figure out the necessary functionality and frankly unnecessary "buns". Thanks in advance.
A wedding is not a type of shooting, but a whole set of different types of shooting. The settings in each case are different. I think no one will answer you in a detailed manner, but you can choose any frames you like on the site and independently look at the settings exif exhibited. I also add that the M mode is sometimes useful, but more likely sometimes than to be regular. Modes with automatic A / S / P often work out faster and more accurately than manually adjusting parameters in mode M. The conclusion was made by observing photographers shooting in M at corporate parties and weddings (by analyzing the photos received, i.e. by the result) .
Thanks, Valentine for the answer. On the contrary, I was getting more marriage in semi-automatic modes due to improper exposure, or badass to extremes under normal lighting, etc. He began to fight by setting restrictions, but then he came to the conclusion that it’s easier to deceive automation in M mode. But many people shoot in auto modes, so he came to the conclusion that something might be wrong with me? Of course, I want comfort, help from the technical side and think about the frame rather than the settings when shooting. Therefore, I am here. Or is the whole strength of this old man in his metal trouble-free simplicity?
When using the D700 very rarely lies with exposure. Here is the exposure sensor, which was also used in the top cameras Nikon D3, D3s, D3x. Sometimes you just need to understand how the camera works in a particular metering mode and balance the auto-ISO mode.
Arkady, with all due respect, but I got the feeling that on a 700-ke the light meter doesn’t hold out.
I don’t really like how it works in the dark, especially if the lighting is difficult.
To “fall short” often means to fit all objects in the frame into dynamic range without losing information in shadows and highlights. This is what the exposure meter should do. And you have to decide what you need to expose in the frame and what you need to exclude. For example, when shooting an object against a light background, you may have two different tasks: to work out the light details of the background and the object - then you balance the brightness, or to work on the object, and the background can (must) be excluded - then you are exposed to the object, allowing for knocking out the light background. Here, in fact, the A or M mode has nothing to do with it, here you yourself must understand what you want from the camera.
In my opinion, this does not apply to the D700, but to all Nikons when using matrix metering and D-Lighting. The algorithm takes the exposure to minus to preserve the lights, and D-Lighting tightens the shadow. With other settings, everything returns to normal.
In mode A, exposure parameters are calculated automatically, but the control process still requires the participation of the photographer. You set the measurement method, correction, if necessary, block the measurement, etc.
With the constant use of M, this is usually the problem: put the shutter speed under some light (indoors or outdoors) and shoot a series of frames on it, moving slightly, changing the angle and distance to the subject. However, they do not pay attention to the fact that the exposure of individual frames for a given shutter speed is no longer optimal. About the conditions of the sun-clouds-the sun and nothing to say. Then the frames that you can just rule. I saw a lot of marriage.
It is difficult to help you in absentia; you need to see the frames and their parameters. If you shoot in raw, then in any cloud you upload a file that is poorly exposed in your opinion from mode A and gives a link. Then there will be specifics.
When the sun and clouds, yes. And indoors, when the light is more or less constant, it's easier in M, because The exposure meter often begins to require different corrections due to the appearing light sources in the frame. And with a flash, if not on the street, it's easier in M.
The fact of the matter is that the light even in the room is not uniform. The model is closer to the source - one value, a little further - another. Light is scattered, reflected, summed up, so, alas, it is not the same. I like working in M - please. Use the handles to make the correct exposure or pull it later, if you haven't seen it. I like it better when the frame is immediately more or less accurate, or deliberately adjusted for specific tasks of post-processing. By the way, there are no problems with the flash in A / S either. That's what TTL is for, to participate in the processing of the frame according to the specified parameters.
With the flash in A / S there is a problem that the shutter speed or aperture is not regulated, but to climb the menu, setting the desired values is not comme il faut. TTL still works and gives a normal exposure of the object. Although all this is subtlety and a matter of habit rather. And in most cases, of course, it’s better to work in priority modes
I am not saying that you need to work in only one mode. Also, I am not suggesting that the ISO setting should be automatic in P / A / S modes. There are situations when auto ISO is needed in M mode, there are many situations when in P / A / S modes it is convenient to control ISO with your hands. Flash is also - in some cases it is more convenient only in M, in some cases it is more convenient in P / A / S. The goal is to get a good shot, so which settings and techniques work best for this are the right ones.
Good afternoon! I ask you to explain whether it is possible on this camera to switch without entering the ISO menu from automatic mode and vice versa. On my second camera, D 7100, this function is implemented - when I press the ISO button, one dial changes the value, and the second turns on automatic mode.
Yes you can. To do this, add the item “Auto. management feels. ISO ”, and select“ Call. top. MY MENU item. " The last button is configured through the INFO menu.
Thanks! Works! But ... still, on the 7100 this feature is implemented on the ISO button, which is more convenient.
Can I set the sub drive to enable auto ISO when I press the ISO button?
As far as I know, you can't.
The method that Arkady described is quite working. Not through the frame, you have to change from auto-ISO to manual and vice versa. Set the near disk to torsion ISO manually, the Fn button to call my menu, where the top item is auto ISO / manual. Everything is quite convenient. It’s just that you feel the inconvenience of different implementations of the same functions in two different cameras. This happens often when the cameras are different, the hands automatically want to do one thing, but the other is necessary.
Good evening! Absolutely right! I bought a d700 and wanted to sell the d7100, but eventually I realized I need both of them. Complementing each other, especially the glass park does not yet allow. On the d7100 I have a full set, but on the 700k so far only 2wa :(. Thank you for communicating.
I buy the camera with a cover by mail, it should come on Saturday, Arkady tell me what to look for, mileage 126tis.
For everything you can. Unfortunately, the camera has a lot of functions, you won’t be able to check everything in an hour.
Thank you, I read in nete, and I myself understand what to pay attention to first of all, but from experience I can know about the camera that I won’t find in a day. For example, from experience in operating the car that I drive, I can give specific advice on what to look at when buying, which you won’t find in nete. In any case, thanks, first of all, for your blog and your robots.
Buying by cash on delivery, you are only insured against the fact that the seller could not send the goods. Everything. You are not insured against anything else. The fact that you look at the appearance upon receipt, or even take a few shots, almost does not save you from having serious problems. If you order a camera by mail, then you trust the seller. If you are afraid that you may receive a low-quality product, do not buy by mail. Let it be more expensive, but with personal examination and testing. Otherwise, the savings can turn into a simple loss of funds.
Valentin, you have a very bad opinion of me, if you have a Nikok D700 camera, write something to look at based on your experience. I buy a camera with a plaited plait, that is, if I do not like it, I will take my money and I will look further. I will take a laptop (on the laptop a program for determining the number of frames shot), a spare battery, two lenses for a screwdriver and with a chip. I will check the mileage declared in the advertisement, I will check it for a short shutter speed, I will check it when working with the SB-900 flash, I will check it with two lenses. Then I'll look inside, if there is any dust from the shutter, or if there are any drips on the subject of drowning. I get on the menu. But, there is a big one, but before that, I did not hold such a camera in my hands, I have a D90. On this question to those who held what else to watch?
Arakadiy, tell me, when did your D700 cameras come to an end, maybe before that the camera blew some sounds? Or was there a malfunction? In principle, the most expensive to repair this camera is the shutter, or maybe there is something else very expensive to repair, maybe the matrix can be checked somehow?
The most expensive thing is to replace the mirror unit. The mirror starts to stick (does not return from the raised state) - this is the first sign that it will need to be changed. This is described here in the overview.
Thanks, Arkady. I read an article, and not only this one of yours. I can say because of you hooked on this thing.
A sticking mirror in the D300 / D3 / D700 is a sign of strong wear on the eccentric in the shutter / mirror cocking unit, a new one costs $ 5 on Ali.
And the mechanics of the mirror in the D700 and 500 thousand - a million frames goes. ;)
No, I have no bad opinion about you, if only because I do not know you. From what you wrote to me, only one thing is interesting: are you going to do this all at the post office, to the cheers of the rest of the line?
You probably never took away with a cover, I pay for the goods, they take it out to me, and then it’s my actual one and I will not detain anyone (except that it will stand above me), but if something goes wrong until I leave the limits of the mail, I can return. I live in Vishnevoe, we don’t have much in the queue, there is a lot of space in the ward (I checked 40 clay dogs for children in the kindergarten somehow, laid it out for half an hour, and took the whole table) except before the holidays. Yes, it will look wild, but for me on the drum, not three pennies worth it. There are no restrictions, tomorrow is Saturday, I can sit for at least half a day to play, and believe me no one even picks me up, I have the right.
You can make a list:
1. Appearance - chips, scratches, abrasions, elastic bands, plugs, belt mounts, battery and card reader compartment covers, bayonet.
2.The appearance of the available bolts - were they unscrewed or not.
3.
3. The presence of dust, dirt, etc. inside the camera, as well as under displays.
4. Work disks and switches.
5. Something tired of writing, well, you still plan to hang around at the post office for half a day, so write - we'll help you))).
The joker however. Probably I didn’t read the documents on receiving the mail. :))) I don’t even realize that they can send it to hell. Probably surprised when they send :)))
Not so scary to hang around in the mail, how scary in the service center). Thanks, I will watch.
With a run of 126 thousand, the probability of repair in the near future is probably already high, because the resource is about 150 thousand, i.e. I for example develop a resource for half a year or a year. I am a lover. Probably there should be a very low price for the camera, but I would first look at the bolts for the lack of dust in the viewfinder, the operation of the mirror and the focus accuracy with a fifty dollars.
24 thousand to hour X is two weeks of active shooting ((
Thank you all, I checked the bolts I checked everything. I really liked the camera. My D90 with a mileage of 40tis. looks worse. Arkady, why 150 yew. you wrote you quacked at 300tis.? Or how lucky? And if I really liked the impressions of the camera, the difference is enormous, the impression is that now everything is possible. It remains to buy glass, I really want Nikkor 80-200 MK1. By the way, the warranty card is not filled in the date, it will be interesting to take advantage of this, if what?
150 thousand declared resource. If you look at the real statistics, then the gates come out long before this level, and much later. Peak values in the region of 170 thousand.
Actually, here your chances are painted: http://www.olegkikin.com/shutterlife/nikon_d700.htm
Arkady, I certainly apologize, for two weeks 24 thousand, how much money can I earn? If I had so much work (God forbid everyone), I would immediately take the D800.
Greetings to photography lovers! Continuing his review from 12.01.18/700/90. The D30 is a great camera, but I didn't even think about selling the D1.4, I bought Sigma art 700 / 700 for it and she began to draw beautifully portraits)) Of the advantages in relation to the D100 - it is lighter and more compact, we take her and my wife for easy walks. But XNUMX is certainly a favorite camera, we take it when you need to get XNUMX% excellent cards and go far and for a long time to the seas and mountains! It's my opinion.
Ruslan, welcome.
I have a similar combo of d90 and d700, and very similar use and opinion. These cameras cool complement each other.
And what is the addition? Well, yes, it’s best to have D90, D700 and art 1.4. Yes, the D700 makes excellent shots, and the D90 is not bad either, and art 1.4 is very interesting glass. Only the additions between this whole set are slightly larger than none. With the same success, you can add to this set almost the entire line of Nikon cameras and glasses of all stripes, saying that in fact they are somewhat complementary to each other, but in fact they spent money in vain.
There was a person D90. I wanted more. I bought a D700. It would be necessary to sell the D90, but the hand does not rise. Firstly, no one takes expensive. Secondly, it is convenient, smaller and lighter. So they take turns shooting, then on the D90, then on the D700.
Well, I guessed something like that. It may be convenient to have several cameras, but does the amateur need it (just such as the D90 and D700)? The shot is not very high, the resource of one camera is enough with a margin. System cameras, specially made the ability to change optics. It’s absolutely possible to get good quality pictures with the D90.
Well sometimes fun. I specially bought a D80 for myself, so as not to break my favorite camera while drinking, give the camera lens to the service and be able to shoot at the same time.
What a coincidence, I also have the D90 and D700, but I will not sell the D90 for only one reason, with responsible filming, there should be a safety net, although it's better to have two D700s, but it's expensive and hard).
Sergey, two cameras are required for commercial shooting. It is not even discussed here.
Thanks for the comment.
Again, it is very convenient for me. This is my experience and my opinion, and I do not say that everyone should do this.
I like the picture, the convenience of shooting, ergonomics and autofocus more from the seven hundred, which I use where the result is important and I expect a lot of frames. But there is an application for the d90, for example, use its crop factor for 80-200 when shooting livestock, or throw it in a backpack with an easy fix in case you encounter something interesting along the way.
I also like to have crop and FF, because glass on them work a little differently. Since I mainly use fixes (besides the above 80-200), this gives me more different combinations of effective focal lengths.
Igor, I’m also right that I don’t see a reason to sell D90 for pennies, since both cameras are in active use, and somehow I don’t care how much I shoot each and do not worry about this, but I take pleasure in using the opportunities that open me both cameras. I repeat this is my experience and my opinion.
As soon as the price tag for life-beaten D3 and D4 comes to a fifty dollars, this blog will be filled with questions, and whether it is worth buying them to your D90 and D700. Worth it, of course.
Returning to the noise. I saw pictures from D700 at ISO2500, it is quite lively and does not require serious post-processing. 3200 already cause discontent, I would not say that 3200 is working.
How does the D700 compare in terms of noise with modern crops? (we ignore the DXO technique with resize up to 8 megapixels). Are you interested in something of the generations sony a77-2, pentax k-50/70 / kp and what was similar in the kanikon? ...
ISO2500 without noise reduction is already problematic - the picture is faded and full of noise. Noticeable noise. There is nothing alive there.
I am writing as the former owner of this camera.
I have the same 700. I rent sports. Shooting in 90% of cases is in JPEG. So very often I use iso 4000-5000. Everything is normal with noise, don’t talk nonsense if you don’t know. I think either you don’t have a D700, or you don’t know how to set an expopair.
For example, a photo taken on ISO 4000, and where is the noise, poor color, etc.
Exif saved.
https://a.radikal.ru/a27/1807/e2/4302347fe6ae.jpg
https://c.radikal.ru/c35/1807/58/b38d65e5bc16.jpg
Learn to use the technique to the fullest.
Andrey, I shot in RAW without compression with the noise cutoff turned off. 2500 on the D700 in RAW is noisy. D3s at 3200 in RAW are clean.
I haven’t removed in jpg for a long time.
I was the owner of both of these cameras. D3s are significantly better at high ISOs. The picture does not degrade and fade so much. After D4 poking around in the Ravs d700 do not want to. You would be curious about how the equal looks with modern ff Nikon, and then you would begin to show me something.
Then, I have never filmed sports. In the studio too. With cameras I used 50 / 1.4d, 35 / 2d, and various Sigma / Tokins as zoom lenses. For example, a situation - we take a camera and go with fixes to shoot a night city. The D700 light meter often loves to underexpose the picture.
DD is often not enough, and at high ISO the picture turns gray - semitones fall off, an unpleasant noise appears. I developed rabbis in CNX2.4.7. I repeat, I always shot in equal terms without compression and noise reduction. I don’t know how things are in jpg, I didn’t use it. D3s are significantly nicer at ISO 800 and above, compared to d700.
The camera has different sensations - this is a more convenient weight distribution and even more accurate and fast AF and a different color in equal. Shoot whatever you want - I have my own opinion on these cameras.
Andrey, I looked at the photos you provided.
1) Shumodav killed the details - for example, the girl's hair suffered, as an example.
The noise can be seen throughout the photo. The girl is like a wax doll. The photo can be posted on VKontakte, but I would be ashamed to send it to the customer.
2) Both photos are not full resolution, but crop. I suggest you watch it honestly - in full resolution, pixel by pixel. And not compressed jpg, but 14-bit RAVs without compression and NO NOISE.
Thanks for the job well done! Great review!
For those who do not want to bother with RAW files: these same image management modes can be installed right into the camera by downloading them on the official website using the link
Windows 7x32 apparently not supported?
I downloaded it, but I can’t install them in the camera (((
Good afternoon! Before, I rarely corrected the image of JPEG RAW files, I used the Samsung RAW converter program, which NIKON program with the Russian interface is available for free and where to download it, I did not guess a little at the wedding of my sister with white balance. (a lot of yellow. Thanks!
Free Capture NX-D: http://downloadcenter.nikonimglib.com/ru/download/sw/112.html
The interface is English, but there are more icons with pictures than words - there should be no problem.
Non-native, free TheTherapee, there is Russian, but the compatibility with cameras is not as good as that of the native. Better Adobe Camera Raw for Photoshop or Adobe Lightroom, but they are already paid.
The Windows version does not matter at all, at least Linux. Profile files are copied to the root of the memory card and installed into the camera from the menu of the camera itself.
I just can't cope with the focusing mode for moving objects ... as a result, everything is blurred (
Maybe you can’t cope with endurance?
Good afternoon! Does it make sense to upgrade to the D700 with the D300s?
If you understand what benefits this will bring, then yes.
There is also such a moment - there are not so many D700 in good condition, I also recommend looking at used D3 / D3s. Sometimes, unexpectedly in good condition, they are sold for tolerable money.
Well, there should also be a set of good lenses for a full frame. D700 has a thick anti-aliasing filter, so it makes sense to think about lenses with good sharpness.
By the way, the D3s filter is not the same as on the D700 and with the same glasses, the picture on it will be sharper than on the D700.
I bought a D700. Started to nonsense shoe, who changed where they bought parts? Give advice, I will be very grateful for the help, and yes all great shots;)
Good day. Last year I asked you a question about a problem I had - “My 5 began to fail in this way at low (-XNUMX, and below) temperatures after twenty to thirty minutes of operation, the entire charge“ drains ”and stops working. The display reads Error. Warm up at home and all the rules. When you press the trigger, something chirps (it looks like a shutter) like on a car when the battery is discharged and the bendex slips along the flywheel. " I figured out the problem and fixed it, but forgot to write it. Unsubscribe now, suddenly someone will come in handy. The problem turned out to be trivially simple. Some third-party batteries, after a certain service life, do not hold the required amperage. Moreover, several batteries from a third-party manufacturer, at negative temperatures, gave the same result. The lack of amperage led to this effect. Replacing with the original battery solved this problem.
Good evening. I’ll ask for advice. Now there is a D70s and four lenses and a flash, I want to buy a better camera, I choose between used d300s and d700, I want, of course, d800, but it's a pity for so much money for a used one. In general, please advise what to choose. I shoot everything - macro, child, schoolchildren, landscapes, weddings, etc. I read everything about them, and I don't understand what to choose. Help with advice.
D610 / D600 will be just right. Otherwise, the D700.
Thanks for the quick response. Given the cost of cameras, I want to rephrase the question, if you will. D300s + a couple of fixes or a good zoom, D700 + fixes, for example, 85 / 1,8, D600 and those lenses that are - 50 / 1,8 and whale from 28-80 film
Anatoly. The question of choosing between 610 and 700. Seven hundred, according to the owner, with 3000 mileage. 610 will be bought at the store. Equally, what would you take today? Are there much worse cartoons in 610 than in 700? Thanks! PS With seven hundred comes 24-70, so your opinion can be very significant))
Seven hundred with a run of 3000? Is it a run on which shutter, on the second or third? Some fantastic numbers.
What a bright and cool photo. Just unrealistic. On d800 in your review are not so cool.
Do you think Akela missed?
Nikon d700 is my favorite camera, in addition to it I bought myself another Nikon d50, this is his younger brother, the cameras are already old, but it's still pleasant to work with them, unlike high-megapixel mirrors, which were a complete disappointment for me, for me personally, 12 MP is more than enough, which of the new to take, I don't know ... Nikon d5 for 20 MP, I don't need them