The Nikon D700 is a full format Nikon FX camera and is Nikon's second full format DSLR camera. The camera was introduced in the summer of 2007 and is now the cheapest full frame from Nikon (unless, of course, film cameras) Most photographers attribute the Nikon D700 to reportage cameras.
Legendary Nikon D700 with booster MB-D10 and lens Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor (MKIII)
I have been using Nikon D700 for a little over 3 years, during which time I have changed several of these cameras.
Nikon D700 is a professional camera, it has no automatic modes shooting. This camera is designed for people who know the basic skills of working with photographic equipment and for whom it will not be difficult to work in semi-automatic or manual modes P, A, S, M.
Example shot on a Nikon D700
Nikon D700 - heavy, dustproof and waterproof chamber with uncompromising metal alloy housing. But trouble, trouble, over time, the gum on the handle and throughout the camera body swell, peel off, and badly spoil the nerves. In addition, the lateral rubber plug for different connectors after swelling of the rubber does not want to close and constantly hangs. On my last Nikon D700, I just cut off this stub. Hanging gum and dummy plugs for PC-sync under studio light and contacts for the remote control. You can replace the rubber bands in the service center, but they take a lot of money for this pleasure, and the rubber bands come from China for quite a long time.
Example photo on Nikon D700
My Nikon D700 cameras are badly worn out from fighting, which is why metal began to appear under their black paint. Due to its heavy weight, the Nikon D700 distributes weight well with heavy lenses like the 70-200 / 2.8. It is best to use a Nikon D700 with a battery grip.
Example photo on Nikon D700
We accelerate the Nikon D700 to the cherished 8 fps
In normal mode, the Nikon D700 can shoot at a speed of 5 fps (with any image quality settings, color depth and compression level RAW) Using battery pack MB-D10 or network adapter EH-5a / EH-5, the speed can grow up to 8 fps. But, to make the camera shoot at a speed of 8 fps, one MB-D10 not enough. You need to use a special holder MS-D10 with 8 AA cells (batteries or rechargeable batteries). The MS-D10 holder is supplied with MB-D10. Also, 8 fps can be achieved using a more capacious battery. EN-EL4 (from cameras Nikon D2h, D2hs, D2x, D2xs) Or EN-EL4a (from cameras Nikon D3s, D3, D3x), but this requires the optional BL-3 cover (which is not included with the MB-D10). In addition, if you buy a battery EN-EL4 or EN-EL4a, you will have to additionally buy and charge Nikon MH-21 / Nikon MH-22 for it. If in MB-D10 use a regular standard battery EN-EL3e, then the burst speed will not change. Battery pack MB-D10 equally suitable for D300, D300S and D700.
Recently, I have been using Nikon D700 with a booster MB-D10 and one EN-EL3e battery. I want to note that the booster (battery pack / portrait grip) MB-D10 performed not logically. Only one battery is inserted into the booster, the second is inserted into the battery compartment of the camera itself. As a result, to use the camera with two batteries, you need to remove the booster from the camera, insert the battery into it and reinstall the booster. I think this method is stupid, impractical and in general, after the bustare from Nikon D200, such illogical behavior is just a mockery of the photographer.
Example shot on a Nikon D700
Unpleasant feature of batteries No. 1
At low temperatures (not necessarily freezing), the camera does not fully release the shutter, and an error message 'Err' appears on the display. To resume camera functionality, just press the shutter button again, after which it will perform a full cycle and you can continue shooting. This behavior in cold weather is most likely due to a drop in battery capacity, which is not enough power for a full shutter release cycle. The repairmen say that diaphragm drummer absorbs a lot of energy and this problem can be observed with many Nikon cameras. This feature is also observed when working with a booster. In any case, in cameras of this level I would like not to encounter such unpleasant features. I get around this shortcoming with 'warmed up' batteries, of which I have 6 spare pieces.
Unpleasant feature of batteries No. 2
When using non-native (Chinese counterparts) batteries with a battery pack, the camera often reports that the battery is completely discharged. At the same time, if you install it in the main battery slot, which is located in the camera, then everything will work fine.
Trouble number 3
With the active use of external flashes, the hot shoe of the Nikon D700 camera breaks, after which the flash begins to behave similarly poltergeist. Even if you put the camera on a table or a tripod, install any flash, for example, the native Nikon SB-910, the flash can turn on any of its functions on its own. Usually a malfunction manifests itself in the fact that the camera stops “seeing” the flash, or blocks the shutter release, the flash can spontaneously give any number of pulses of any power (you can burn your eyes), the flash focusing grid is activated, etc. If you move the flash in the hot shoe a little, the problem goes away for a few seconds. Clamping the metal contacts of the hot shoe only solves the problem for a while. It is treated by replacing the shoe.
Example photo on Nikon D700
The camera has a great small monochrome displayon which all the basic settings are available. I write small because, compared to Nikon D200, D300, D300s the monochrome display has decreased, since the Nikon D700 uses a large pentaprism, which pushed and reduced the secondary display. The monochrome display has a pleasant green backlight, which is turned on using the camera's power lever. The monochrome display saves battery power and simplifies camera setup and shooting.
Sample photo on Nikon D700
The main display of the Nikon D700 at 920.000 points, the same as that of the cameras Nikon D90, D300, D300s, D7000, D3, D3s, D3x. The display is nice and has a protective cover that I never take off. You can adjust the brightness of the display for yourself.
Nikon D700 uses big and fast cards CF. My Nikon D700 works with a 32GB 400x card without any problems.
Nikon D700 is not big at all frame buffer. Depending on the type and format of the image, the buffer can hold a maximum 18 RAW shots (at conventional compression, 12 bit RAW), 15 shots of Tiff, 24JPEG L FINE (size priority). I almost never saw information in reviews about the fact that some functions reduce the number of frames in the buffer. Because, attention: if you enable ADL, noise reduction at slow shutter speeds and high ISOs, frame buffer reduced to 6 shots - this is a very, very bad indicator. But, even if you take the maximum - 18 RAW files with disabled additional settings to improve images, this is 3 frames less than in the ancient professional Nikon D200.
Given that the maximum shooting speed is 8 fps, with the Nikon D700 you can shoot series no longer than 3 seconds. So, the Nikon D700 is not quite suitable for serious reporting. Frame buffer - one of the main indicators of camera performance and speed. Well, if it is very important to shoot in series in RAW, then in DX mode the buffer can hold as much as 26 frames (with normal compression and 12-bit color depth).
Example shot on a Nikon D700
Nikon D700 camera has everything 12.1 effective megapixels... This is small enough for a full frame camera. A small number of megapixels increases the diffraction threshold. CMOS sensor type, Nikon D700 is the first full frame matrix from Nikon, because it is not the most ideal. In a number of characteristics, the D700 is inferior even to amateur cameras. Nikon D7000, D5100... Full frame is not a panacea for image quality. In general, I do not recommend chasing the number of megapixels, for more details in my article Battle of Megapixels.
Wedding photography for the Nikon D700 is not a problem at all
Nikon D700 has built-in focus motorthat allows you to automatically focus with AF optics, for example, with Nikon 50mm F1.8D, Nikon 85mm F / 1.8D AF Nikkor and other AF lenses.
For measuring exposure thrown out 3D Color Matrix Metering II with 1005 zones. The camera works wonderfully even with old AI-S, Pre-ai lenses. In principle, froze exposure available and tin can instead of lens, and even without a lens at all. The camera can memorize 10 manual lenses. I love to use Nikon D700 with Soviet lenses, since the camera has an electronic rangefinder (arrows near the green dot, which suggest which direction to rotate the focus ring on manual lenses).
Full-length portrait on Nikon D700
At the camera 51 focus points, 15 of which are cruciform. After using the camera for a long time, I do not feel the difference between cross-shaped and regular focus points at all. A serious focusing drawback is the fact that all points are placed only on the DX area of the camera - you cannot focus at the edges of the frame. Focus module MultiCAM 3500FX use older cameras Nikon D3, D3s, D3x.
The camera has a main ISO range from 200 to 6400 and an expanded from 100 (1) to 25.600 (hi 2). It's a shame that the Nikon D700 does not have a true ISO 100. The shortest excerpt the camera is 1 \ 8000c. Funny but one of the first Nikon D1h could shoot at 1 \ 16.000. Short excerpt and minimum ISO are very important when using fast lenses.
Example shot on a Nikon D700
Nikon D700 can control flash according to the protocol Nikon CLS. Funny but before the release Nikon D800 (D800E) The XNUMX was the only full-frame camera with built-in flash. Yes, that's right, in Nikon D3, D3s, D3x, D4, D4s, Df there is no flash at all, therefore, the SU-800 module is recommended for flagship cameras. You can read how to control flashes in the section about Nikon CLS. Many do not respect the built-in flash frog, but in skillful hands it turns into an ideal flash synchronization device. Of course, the Nikon D700 has fast flash synchronization and can shoot in FP mode with flash for at least 1/8000 s, in more detail in the section on flash in the afternoon.
The battery on the camera is quite powerful, without a flash it easily fulfills 1000-1500 shots. The battery is completely identical to Nikon D80, D90, D200, D300, D300s and compatible with D100, D70, D70s, D50 (but not vice versa).
Nikon D700 behaves well in the studio
A thousand and one useful things: bracketing, control HA in JPEG, vignetting control, virtual horizon, Live View, viewing depth of field, multiple exposure, matrix cleaning, interval shooting, etc. If you have questions about small things, write in the comments, I will try to answer quickly.
If you take the matrix and the stuffing from the flagship camera Nikon D3, and shove it into the case from Nikon D300 (Nikon D300s), we get the Nikon D700.
With Nikon D700 and a cheap fifty dollars, you can squeeze a lot
About Nikon D700 and Nikon D3, I highlight the main differences in bold.
- Different level... Nikon D700 is professional and Nikon D3 - flagship professional camera. In any case, Nikon D3 is positioned for a different circle of photographers.
- Different body. And therefore, Nikon D3 has better ergonomics of management, more capacious battery.
- Nikon D700 has dust cleaning matrixand the Nikon D3 doesn't have one.
- Nikon D700 takes off 1 f slowerthan Nikon D3
- Nikon D700 has another pentaprism with less coverage, covering only 95% of the picture.
- Nikon D700 only one slot for memory cardsThe Nikon D3 has two. Professionals value this feature in the Nikon D3 very highly.
- Funny but Nikon D3 does not have a built-in flash, and the Nikon D700 has, from here comes up a whole series of Nikon D700 work options with Nikon CLS with groups of flashes. I really appreciate this feature.
- Different shutter. Nikon D700 will last two times less than Nikon D3
- Various little things in the menu settings, etc.
Speaking on the case, I did not use Nikon D3, but, given that the cameras have the same matrix and the same focusing system, the image quality and functionality are very close. Now both cameras are outdated, as Nikon D3s, D4, D4s, D5 are much better than these two old ladies.
Example on Nikon D700
About Nikon D700, D600, D800,D800E:
| D600 | D700 | D800 (E) | |
| Pixels | 24MP | 12MP | 36MP |
| Native shooting speed k / s | 5,5 | 5 | 4 |
| Maximum possible speed k \ s | 5,5 | 8 | 6 |
| Number of Focus Points | 39 | 51 | 51 |
| Cruciform sensors | 9 | 15 | 15 |
| Focus Sensors at F / 5.6-F / 8.0 | 33 | 0 | 15 |
| Focus Sensors at F / 8.0 | 7 | 0 | 11 |
| ISO | 100-6400 | 200-6400 | 100-6400 |
| Maximum high ISO | 25600 | 25600 | 25600 |
| Maximum low ISO | 50 | 100 | 50 |
| Minimum speed excerpts | 1 / 4000s | 1 / 8000s | 1 / 8000s |
| Minimum sync speed | 1 / 250s | 1 / 320s | 1 / 320s |
| Chassis | Part from M. alloy | Magnesium alloy | Magnesium alloy |
| Memory cards | 2 X SD(HC, XC) | 1 x CF | CF+ SD(HC, XC) |
| Video | 1920 x 1080 | no | 1920 x 1080 |
| Display | 3.2 in | 3 in | 3.2 in |
| Dots on display | 921000 | 921000 | 921000 |
| Viewfinder Coverage | 100% | 95% | 100% |
| Viewfinder Zoom | 0,7h | 0.72x | 0,7h |
| Weight with battery | 850g | 1075g | 900 |
| RAW Buffer (FX Mode) | 15 | 18 | 16 |
| HDR | Yes | no | Yes |
| RAW | Compression only | Without compression | Without compression |
| Measurement exposure | 2016 pixels | 1005 pixels | 91000 pixels |
| Shutter | 150000 | 150000 | 200000 |
I note that Nikon D600 and Nikon D700 - these are cameras of different levels, despite the fact that the D700 is much older Nikon D600, but still its 'charm' is noticeably better than the 600. In choise Nikon D800, D700, D600 I would adhere to this sequence, leaving the budget: Nikon D810 -> Nikon D800E -> Nikon D800 -> Nikon D750 -> Nikon DF -> Nikon D610 -> Nikon D600 -> Nikon D700. Nikon 810a will be chosen only by experts in their field.
Sample photo on Nikon D700
Interesting options for setting up and managing the Nikon D700:
- You can set the center selector button to view captured images at a specific magnification. Roughly speaking, when viewing a picture, with one press of the central button of the selector (joystick), you can get an increase in any area of the picture. This is very useful for checking sharpness. Moreover, the increase is done at the focus point (or group of points), according to which the picture was taken.
- I adjust the FN button for auto ISO controls. This is not so easy to do, which is the strong minus of the camera. To do this, add the item “Auto. management feels. ISO ”, and in the function key programming menu select“ Call. top. item MY MENU ”. The button is configured via the “INFO” menu.
- I program the preview button to select the manual lens. Moreover, it is very inconvenient that you can only select the lens number with the specified parameters. On my Nikon D200 with this setting, it was also possible to change the parameters of the lens, which is very useful when using lenses with manual aperture controls and zoom lenses. The button is configured via the “INFO” menu.
- I program the AE-L / AF-L button for the 'Live View' mode, after which the Live View mode becomes more familiar for the convenience of switching on, for example, as on Nikon D90. By the way Auto focus in Live View is only available in AF-S mode and only with the AF-ON button and only when 'tripod' mode is selected.
- I turn off the audible focus alert, which greatly disturbs and annoys some people when shooting, for example in церкви.
- In the playback menu, you can configure the camera so that the focus points that participated in focusing (on which the subject was focused) are displayed in the image when viewing images. This is done through the "Display Mode" submenu.
- Focus mode AF-C set to shutter priority, and AF-S to focus priority. You can find useful information on working with these modes here.
- All other settings (and previous ones too) can be customized to taste and needs. Do not forget that the Nikon D700 has several banks of settings that you can save and change. More details about this here.
Nikon D700 portrait example and rare manual lens
More examples of photos with RAW source files obtained with Nikon D700 can be viewed and / or downloaded in the following reviews:
- YONGNUO 35mm 1: 2 (YN35mm F2N)
- Nikon AF-S Nikkor 70-200mm 1: 2.8GII ED N VR Nano Crystal Coat SWM IF (portraits available)
- YONGNUO LENS YN50mm F1.4N E
- Nikon AF Nikkor 85mm 1: 1.8 (portraits available)
- Nikon Nikkor 85mm 1: 1.4 (portraits available)
- Sigma 50mm 1: 1.4 DG HSM EX (portraits available)
- Nikon N AF-S Nikkor 70-200mm 1: 4G ED SWM VR IF Nano Crystal Coat (portraits and reportage available)
- Tokina Macro 100 F2.8 D AT-X PRO N / AIS (portraits available)
- Nikon AF Nikkor 35-135mm 1: 3.5-4.5 (there are portraits in the review)
- Sigma 50mm 1: 2.8 DG Macro D EX (various scenes)
- Nikon N AF-S Nikkor 24-120mm 1: 4G ED VR SWM IF Aspherical Nano Crystal Coat (reportage and portraits)
- Sigma 70-200mm 1: 2.8 APO DG HSM EX Optical Stabilizer (different stories in the review)
- NIKON ED AF-S NIKKOR 28-300mm 1: 3.5-5.6G SWM VR IF Aspherical (various scenes)
- Voigtlander Nokton 58mm F1.4 SL N / AI-S (a lot of bokeh in the review)
- Nikon AF Nikkor 35-105mm 1: 3.5-4.5 (indoor portraits)
- Tokina AT-X SD 100-300mm 1: 4 (there are portraits)
- Sigma AF Zoom APO 70-210mm 1: 2.8 (portraits available)
- Nikon AF Nikkor 35-105mm 1: 3.5-4.5 D (in the review photo of the autumn)
- Sigma High-Speed Wide 28mm 1: 1.8 Multi-Coated Aspherical (in the autumn photo review)
- Nikon AF NIKKOR 20-35mm 1: 2.8D (landscapes)
- MC TAIR-3S 4,5 / 300 (different scenes at different ISOs)
- Tamron SP AF Aspherical LD [IF] 28-105mm 1: 2.8 276D (many autumn photos in the review)
- Tamron AF LD 200-400mm 1: 5.6 75DN
- Sigma Zoom 15-30mm D 1: 3.5-4.5 DG EX Aspherical IF (in the autumn photo review)
- Nikon AF Nikkor 35-70mm 1: 2.8 (just color pictures)
- Quantaray - NF AF 1: 3.5-4.5 f = 35-70mm Multi-Coated (outdoor)
- Nikon 80-200mm AF Nikkor 1: 4.5-5.6D (flowers, street)
- Cosina 70-210mm 1: 2.8-4 MC Macro (nature)
- Nikon AF Nikkor 24mm 1: 2.8 (MKII version)
- MC HELIOS-44M-4 58mm 1: 2
- Nikon ED AF Nikkor 300mm 1: 4
- Sigma Zoom 28-70mm 1: 2.8 (miscellaneous)
- Nikon AF Micro Nikkor 60mm 1: 2.8D (colors)
- YONGNUO 40mm 1: 2.8
- Nikon N AF-S Micro Nikkor 60mm 1: 2.8G SWM ED IF Aspherical Nano Crystal Coat (macro)
- SIGMA ZOOM 28-105mm D 1: 2.8-4 Aspherical (miscellaneous)
- Nikon 180mm 1: 2.8D ED AF Nikkor MKIV (Street Photography)
- Tamron SP AF 20-40 1: 2.7-3.5 Aspherical 266D (street shooting)
- Nikon ED AF Nikkor 18-35mm 1: 3.5-4.5D IF Aspherical
- YONGNUO LENS YN 14mm F 2.8 N
- Nikon AF Nikkor 35mm 1: 2 (MKI) (miscellaneous)
- YONGNUO LENS 100mm 1: 2
- Nikon AF DC-Nikkor 105mm 1: 2 D Defocus Image Control (studio)
- Sigma EX 85mm 1: 1.4 DG HSM (portraits available)
- Nikon ED AF VR-Nikkor 80-400mm 1: 4.5-5.6D Vibration Reduction (portraits and high ISO available)
- Sigma Zoom 24-135mmD 1: 2.8-4.5 (miscellaneous, portraits)
- Nikon AF Nikkor 28-70mm 1: 3.5-4.5D
- Tamron DI SP 70-300mm F / 4-5.6 VC USD A005NII
- Nikon ED AF Nikkor 70-300mm 1: 4-5.6D (there are portraits and high ISO)
- Sigma 170-500mm 1: 5-6.3D APO
- Nikon N AF-S Nikkor 28mm 1: 1.8G Nano Crystal Coat SWM RF Aspherical
- Yongnuo YN60mm F2NE MF MACRO
- Nikon ED AF Nikkor 80-200mm 1: 2.8D (MKII)
- Yongnuo YN 85mm F1.8N
- Nikon ED AF-S Nikkor 80-200mm 1: 2.8D (gray)
- Nikon AF-S Nikkor 85mm 1: 1.8G IF SWM (many portraits)
- Tokina AT-X PRO 28-80 1: 2.8 Aspherical N / AIS (miscellaneous)
- Sigma Auto Focus UC ZOOM 70-210mm 1: 4-5.6 Multi-Coated
- Nikon ED AF-S Nikkor 300mm 1: 4D IF Silent Wave Motor
Personal experience:
Nikon D700 is a very good camera. I work as a photographer and really appreciate her 51 point focus, quick response. It's funny, but all 51 focus points are in the DX area of the image, it seems that the Nikon D700 is not Nikon Multi-CAM 3500FXand Nikon Multi-CAM 3500DX from Nikon D300 (details here) Also, exposure meters Nikon D700 is afraid of flare. For example, when shooting in a church, if a small light source in the form of a candle enters the frame, matrix and centrally weighted measurements take a strongly underexposed frame. The dynamic range of the camera is small, Nikon D7000 it is much higher, but do not blame the old Nikon D700, because it is the first full frame matrix from Nikon. Also, the Nikon D700 is one of the few cameras that has a useful Live View mode and at the same time does not need to overpay for the video function. When viewing an image in Live View, it is very slow. For example, Live View at Nikon D90 much better "understands", especially when enlarging an area of the image. Often, Nikon D700 is the first FF camera for photographers, and whether it's worth switching to full frame at all - everyone must decide for himself, perhaps my article will help with this. 'Crop identification'. Regarding the matrix noise: yes, Nikon D700 bypasses any Nikon DX camera in terms of noise, there is nowhere to hide the cat in the bag. Regarding the recommendation of lenses for use: it all depends on the needs and tasks of the photographer.
D700 and skinton
Some do not like the way the camera conveys skin color (skin tone). Indeed, sometimes you can seriously complain about this. But for the Nikon D700 (and also for Nikon D300, D300s, D3, D3s and D3x) there is one unusual solution - to shoot in RAW, which then needs to be 'developed' using Nikon ViewNX (Nikon ViewNX-I) or CaptureNX (CaptureNX-D), while making sure to select Picture Control (Picture Control Mode) 'M1 D2Xmode1 ', or 'M2 D2Xmode2', 'M3 D2Xmode3' to your liking. These are special picture management sets that mimic the operation of cameras. Nikon D2x и D2xs... Try it, the result is sometimes very, very pleasantly surprised. So, the 'M1 D2Xmode1' is best for portrait photography.
For those who do not want to bother with RAW files: these same image management modes can be installed right into the camera by downloading them on the official website here to register:.
On the net you can find the same profiles for Lighroom and ACR ( link), after which working with RAW files can turn into a pleasure. Also, I advise you to look into my note about RAW converters.
Live, die and live again!
A little addition: after 150.000 shots at one of the weddings, I refused camera mirror... The cause of the breakdown - the mirror lever broke, the repair at the official service center in Kiev took over 1 month and stood at around $ 650, as they explained, in the D700 all the mirror, shutter and diaphragm mechanisms are connected, so the entire front mirror bay had to be changed ... After the repair, the frame counter showed 10 pictures.
Another small addition: I got another Nikon D700 camera, I bought it second-hand with a range of about 10.000 frames. At 330.000 frames, problems started with mirror sticking.
Example shot on a Nikon D700
Prices for modern Nikon cameras in popular stores can look at this link.
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Results
Nikon D700 - Nikon's most affordable full-frame digital SLR camera.
I do not recommend to beginners - it is heavy and requires an understanding of photography techniques.
I do not recommend to professionals - the potential of other full-size cameras will last for many years to come.
Elder Nikon D700 is interesting only for the price and full frame. I recommend Nikon D700 for upgrade after old DX cameras as budget option FX camera.
Nikon D700 is a long-running legend.
Nikon D700 is one of Nikon's most balanced cameras. Until now (in the summer of 2016) there is no full replacement for her. Nikon D750 - not at all. It is Nikon D700, not Nikon D300, that can be considered a reduced copy of the TOP Nikon D3.
Have questions about Nikon D700? Ask them in the comments, I have been using this model for a very long time and I know a lot about it.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram
Hello, I’ve been racking my brains for many weeks. I choose either d700 or d600 / 610. What will be better? I like to shoot the night sky, stars, landscapes. Please describe what and why. Thank you in advance.
The night sky, stars, landscapes are all unhurried shooting with a bias towards a high-quality picture, and therefore it is better 600/610
Good evening. I understand that the issue is not the topic, but can someone tell me where in Kiev it is better to take nikon 3100 for repair. What can you say about the service on st. Khokhlov family? Sorry, that is not the topic. Thank you for understanding.
They do it for a long time, but with high quality. Warranty 6 months, diagnosis is free. Often been there.
Thank you very much.
Friends, good day to all!
I got carried away with photography, I have been shooting for a year with d7200 There are plans to purchase a second camera, but I don’t know what to buy.
I was waiting for the D500, since there are sigma 18-35 and sigma 50-100 in stock (I planned not to fool with lens replacements and only change cameras if necessary).
So, the price of this d500 is, to put it mildly, indecent, so I dismissed it right away and started thinking about the full frame.
Recently turned up the opportunity to take a completely lively D700 with a mileage of 35000 for about 600 dollars, or a D610, a little more expensive, with a mileage of 100.000 and an unknown life story.
So, what is the actual question, which of the above would you recommend as the first FF?
Of course, I understand that it would be possible to pull up a little and take the D750, but do not forget that for the first time I will need to plug the camera with something, at least 35 1.4 (I’m also not sure yet, because I was still waiting top crop and did not count on a full frame).
Who thinks about this?
PS I shoot everything from nature to reporting on the holidays. The D7200 is already used to good autofocus, and to be honest it’s scary to take the d610.
Thanks in advance!
L610 and d7200 are very similar in management and generally in many ways, take it.
Advise the first FF camera after the D5200 to a moderate budget.
Nikon system)))
d610
Thank you Arkady!
PS I read your photo blog from the time when I had no camera in sight. It is for me as the first reference book where I turn to with emerging questions. So be sure to listen;)
A small recommendation on Skinton: when shooting a portrait of fair-skinned, set the exposure compensation to +0,3 or even +0,7.
Hello! Thank you so much for your articles! You are a true professional !! Therefore, I want to trust you in choosing a new camera / lens.
I have nikon d90 (mileage 66.000), lenses 18-105 and 50mm 1.8D, flash sb-700. I am not satisfied with the blurring of the pictures ... 50 mm, in principle, does its job well, but I want more clarity and less noise. 18-105 is a complete turd, I want to change it to 24-70.
I shoot mainly girls, family shootings, weddings, children's parties in a cafe. Plein air, studio, room. I love beautiful bokeh. I shoot in the M. mode. I don’t shoot in series. I’m self-taught, so I don’t particularly understand the technical characteristics of the camera. Just know what you need to twist in order to achieve the desired result)))) I wrote this so that you understand what I want))
Questions:
1. Will it simply be enough to change the lens (s) so that the blurriness disappears, the camera is garbage and there is a good focus and sharpness? 18-105 to 24-70 and is it worth changing 50mm 1,8D to 1,4G (will I feel the difference?)
2. Change the camera. On what? If I change the camera, will pictures with old lenses improve much? (I will change the lens over time)
3. If you buy a used camera, then what is the maximum mileage to consider? Should I ask for a check in some service center (because I don’t understand and I'm afraid that they will slip a damaged device)? Or if outwardly it looks good and has a low mileage, then in principle there is nothing to fear?
Considered options d600, d700, d800 (used). 80-90 thousand. But I will consider any others that you advise.
I really look forward to your reply !! Thank you very much in advance!!!
Regards, Christina.
so that purity disappears
))))))))))))))) there’s even nothing to advise.
Ask friends for other lenses, experiment.
I will not say anything about the camera
Kaleksey, you are wrong! Herniness is an incredibly important indicator of contemporary photographic art. ?
Now garbage is in fashion, by the way))))
but I do not like this mod)))
I only saw later))))) this is a typo))) graininess))
I have no familiar photographers :(
write here what city you are from - quickly new familiar photographers will appear :)
Moscow))) I would have a new camera / lenses, not photographers))))))))))
1) Dustiness may or may not disappear. We must find the reason for the soap. The best option is to rent from friends or rent 24-70 and see if there is a big difference. The fact is that 18-105, of course, is not a miracle of engineering technology in terms of sharpness, but it is still quite sharp glass. The overall sharpness of the frame is influenced not only by the lens, but also by the camera settings, lighting and post-processing. People with helios 44-2 draw out sharp shots when processing without visible overshadow. I mean, maybe you just need to study the possibilities of the rav and post-processing. Trust me, the sharpness will increase a lot. Moreover, you did not say that you need more bokeh or aperture, so 24-70 may not be necessary.
2) The new crop has even more megapixels and 18-105 they definitely will not get any sharper, maybe even vice versa.
3) I would add d750 and d610 to the cameras in question. These are newer cameras, average mileage is less. The d600 has problems with oil that you, as you say, an inexperienced person in the technical part, may not immediately see. The d700 is a pretty old camera, albeit an excellent one. But the chance of running into a killed copy is high, it is better to buy such a camera for a tech-savvy user. The d800 has a huge resolution, which you may not need. But files of 30-80 megabytes can be a problem. d610 is the best option for me due to a very good set of features, coupled with a nice price.
Buying ff naturally means giving up on 18-105, and ff 24-70 will be very good.
How to get used is a separate topic for conversation. In short:
- watch the run. Up to 50 thousand you can take ff safely, after 50 thousand - with a good discount, after 100 - with great caution. I note that when replacing the shutter, the frame counter is reset - there is a chance to take d700 with a de jure mileage of 10 thousand, and de facto more than 300;
- look at the external condition. Small abrasions don't matter, shallow scratches too. But the crack should make you refuse to buy;
- efficiency. Check the camera with a couple of different glasses, twist the autofocus, check the rate of fire, see the difference between the shutter speeds of 1/2000 and 1/8000, check the operation of the memory card, shoot a white wall out of focus on a closed diaphragm to see dirt and dust on the matrix;
- see the work of all buttons. So that they don't stick and don't get stupid;
- in the end, take a few frames and look at your computer leisurely what and how with the image.
There are more nuances. But personally, I take a used camera pretty quickly. I take a few frames, click on the main buttons, look at the image on the screen and the appearance of the camera itself. 2-4 minutes and I know if I take the camera or not.
Given that you live in Moscow, you can rent both a camera and glass, which you choose to purchase. See live whether the quality is better, the higher the price. Good luck
Thank you so much for your reply!
Well, post-processing also saves me, but this is not enough, because with a strong approximation, the quality does not suit me. 50mm suits me a lot more in sharpness, as I understand it, this is precisely due to the aperture ratio, but, unfortunately, it is not always possible to remove a fixed lens and run back and forth. Yes, and the bokeh is beautiful) 18-105 works well with good lighting and in rooms with low ceilings and a flash, but I do not like how he shoots in the studio, so I try to shoot at 50mm. 24-70 I consider buying anyway.
I read on the Internet that many D90 owners complain of soap.
Yes, and just 8 years have passed already, I would like better picture quality)
I’ll take a closer look at the d610 and 24-70, but I’ll leave 50mm 1.8 for now) Although 1,4 b / y is not so expensive)
HUGE THANKS again !! You helped me a lot! I’ll direct myself to save your post as a cheat sheet :))) I wish you creative success and many clients! ;)))
Thanks for the wishes :) Regarding the 50 1.8d, I can say that this is a good lens, but the other Nikon half-points are more interesting. If you are comfortable with a sharpness of 50 1.8d, then you will be surprised how sharp is 50 1.8g or 50 1.4g at F1.8. At one time there were all 4 fifty dollars, as a result I was able to part with only 50 1.8d, I left the remaining three for various reasons on the farm. This is not to say that you need to urgently change the lens, just if you get an interesting option to replace, I would replace it. 50 1.4d in sharpness on an open is similar to 50 1.8d, but there is a margin in aperture, so at 1.8 it will be sharper. 50 1.8g and 50 1.4g are very sharp on the open and 1.8 noticeably overtake 50 1.8d. So if you succeed in replacing, I think you will see the difference.
I watched a comparison of these lenses) 1,4g was very pleased))
I really want to replace it, but for now 24-70 is preferable :) Here it is used almost nowhere ..) Most likely you will have to take a new one: ((
I would like, of course, and 85 mm 1,4 ... The bokeh is very beautiful there ...))) but the price bites very much)))
Thanks again for the tips!))
24-70 often hangs on Avito at a price of 55-60 thousand rubles.
“I would like to note that when replacing the shutter, the frame counter is reset - there is a chance to take d700 with a de jure mileage of 10 thousand, and de facto more than 300”
Let me disagree with this statement, because I repeatedly changed the gates to D3 and D700 in a company service in Moscow, while I never received a reset counter. Moreover, I remember somehow even asked to reset the counter in the service, and in response they said that this was impossible.
Maybe I misunderstood something? I ask experts to comment on this moment.
Thank you.
In official centers, the counter is not reset.
I am satisfied with a bunch:
Nikon D610 + Nikkor 85 / 1.8G. An affordable camera and a quality portrait lens. Of course I wanted the D810, but it's expensive ... You can leave fifty dollars. But it's better to forget about zooms! Even about 24-70 / 2.8! Go to fixes!
it is very inconvenient in wedding photography (
It is not always possible to run back and forth ... For example, in a registry office)
And in the studio it’s more convenient to shoot with a zoom)
And during the lens change you can miss something important ..) I can’t even imagine shooting only on fixes))
So for this, we need 24MP))
On a Nikon D90 with a Nikkor 50 / 1.8G, I managed to shoot 95% of the entire wedding. Well, I did not miss anything so super important! Fast focusing and high sensitivity were required more often than corner width. And when it was completely unbearable - I put on Nikkor 20 / 2.8D. But he smeared at medium distances, so he rarely used it. Then I bought Helios 40-2 and Nikkor 85 / 1.8G for portraits. Nikon D610 has recently got hold of. I suppose 85ka in full frame will become almost standard. We are waiting for the wedding season ...
Here are a few numbers:
Nikon 24-70mm f / 2.8G ED AF-S Nikkor - weight: 900 gr., Price: 125990 rubles, DXOMARK points - 29.
Nikon 50mm f / 1.4G AF-S Nikkor - weight: 280 g, price: 31990 rubles, DXOMARK points - 35, plus aperture and bokeh!
You can also compare 85 mm and 70-200 ... But there is a similar situation: A cool portrait can be shot only with a good fix.
So you better buy a Nikon D810 and a couple of fixes. You will win in the quality, artistry of the photo and the weight of the equipment!
No one says that I will replace 50mm with 24-70))) I like fifty dollars very much)) later I’ll definitely change my 1,8D to 1,4G) The most important thing for me is to change the terrible 18-105)) I thought that 24-70 would be an excellent replacement) it is not in vain that those who rent weddings love it so much)
I cited 1,4G as an example of the fastest classic fifty. I shoot myself at 1.8G. Zooms are good at reporting - when quality isn't that important. I understand perfectly well that a wedding is 90% reportage. But to carry a kilogram glass, which costs as a good fix, but removes worse than a cheap fifty dollar? Well, I don't know ... There are no words ...
50 1.8 d at f4-5.6 in the center of the frame is sharper than all the half lines combined
He switched to D700 after D90.
Pleased with:
1) Moisture protection
2) Higher working ISOs - up to 2500 without noise reduction turned on, although it is already better to turn on noise reduction by 2500.
3) Faster screwdriver and autofocus compared to the D90.
4) Truly accurate and fast autofocus.
5) The carcass perfectly balances heavy glass, but for a more comfortable grip it is advisable to buy a bat.unit.
Not pleased:
After ISO 1600 the picture starts to fade and turn gray.
An unpleasant noise already appears on ISO 2500 and the picture faded.
Arkady is right - in the dark, there are mistakes of the exponent and if there are candles and lanterns in the frame, then the camera can quite severely underexpose the picture, which can then be pulled out by the ears of an unpleasant occupation.
*
Used in Moscow, you can still find cameras with low ranges. But at a price they will be equivalent to a used D610. For D610 - a more modern matrix. For D700 - Autofocus. Decide for yourself. For myself, I would probably take the D610, if then this camera was used at the same price.
Hello Arkady! I ask for your advice! I'm in thought! There is an opportunity to purchase D700! There are two exactly the same cameras, both in good condition, both externally and internally. One is older than the 2008 release, the other is younger - 2012. If I understand correctly, then they have different firmware versions, i.e. the older one has an old one, and the younger one has a new one! With which firmware does the camera behave better, and the better, or is there no difference at all? Or the same firmware? Or are these cameras different in some way? Maybe in the youngest (2012) something started to work better, or vice versa, worse? What is the difference? And does it exist at all? In general, please advise which camera to choose - 2008, or 2012. ??? If anyone knows, please write !!! Very grateful in advance !!!
Difference in production year. The firmware does not differ in anything special, you can update the old one to the new one - just spit.
That is, you want to say that you can take no matter what? And both will all work the same way? It's just that some write that autofocusing works better in the new D700 releases, others that DD is worse, and still others that White Balance is better! That's why, in fact, he asked!
Help make a choice. Two used cameras 55t.r. D700 mileage 93600, d600 mileage 12000. What to do?
D 600 definitely, you can also bargain, 55 is its average market price.
Of these two, naturally D700! Even with this mileage, it spits even the new D600 in many ways! D700 with such mileage 55 tr. too much, 45-50 tr. the very thing! Although this mileage for a seven hundred is nonsense! From practice, this machine gun can shoot up to 400.000 without replacing the shutter. But with such a mileage, other parts fly faster than the shutter, the mirror mechanism, etc., fly faster! I advise you to stop at the D700 definitely, but find it with a range of up to 40.000, a maximum of 50.000 operations !!!
What exactly does it spit on? If you approve - argue. Yes, if the mileage is up to 50 thousand, then the choice is difficult. but in this case: - drainage of the spent carcass D700 versus almost zero D 600. And the question of what to take, a headache, or a carcass that (oh horror) does not have a couple of buttons like prof. technology, in my opinion, is not worth it.
Spit in the sense that the D700 opens up more opportunities for the photographer! If you want to improve your knowledge and technique in the art of photography, then the D700! If you just shoot and don't bother too much, then D600! And yet, - When choosing a used camera, there are more important parameters that should be paid more attention to than the mileage. And one of the important parameters is the quality of operation of this device! And this, as you say, a spent carcass can give odds to many almost zero cameras! The choice is yours!!!
These are general words, specific advantages, that is, you cannot give. I can hardly believe that the D700 can be purchased in good condition, because they were bought by professionals and were actively used, and the period of their release is much earlier. The D600 is a later model, and is often in the hands of an amateur, which is a plus in terms of shock absorption. By the way, the professionals do not disdain D600 - D610.
Thanks for the feedback. Now everything is more complicated.
1. The seller gives D700 with mileage of 93600 for 45t.
2. D600 offered to buy for 50, thinks.
3. D700 in Yalta found (itself from Krymsk) mileage 26000 mileage, price 50.
I broke my head. I do not consider option 1 already.
I am an amateur, I photograph cats, children. Grew up from d3100, there are not enough camera capabilities in low light conditions and the inability to use a flash.
I would be grateful for your help.
Oops! Very cool! And I myself am from Yalta, and I’m looking for (or rather I was looking for) here for seven hundred months already and still could not find it! And if it's not a secret, how was it found? Where? On which website? And what’s most interesting, I found the D700 in Krasnodar, where I’m going in a week after it! You and I got an interesting situation, you found here, under my nose, but I found there, you have !!!
Take fujifilm x-t10 from hand or stock. With a lens 18-55 / 2,8-4.
In your conditions, this will be a much more correct investment.
You can take a new or unreleased carcass, and zoom to it or 35 / 1,4 for awesome portraits with a blurry background (20 to 25 thousand hands) or 35/2.
This is a much more compact system, especially for a girl, wonderful jeeps, and ISO 3200 working
A man needs a big Pontic SLR, and you are talking about the BZK. It’s better to advise also to buy a block to increase the effect. And a large lens, from a distance, was visible to a professional photographer. ???
no. a girl needs a device for increased needs.
Learn to read at least a thread.
It would be nice if the girl still understood exactly what needs she had grown up ...
And no matter how it turned out that the full-frame capabilities for its needs are excessive, and in some places harmful.
dragging something about it and said that she doesn’t need FF at all
I will add, in the cell from Yalta, the second owner. D600 was used for home photos.
It’s problematic for me to go to Yalta. Mail is scary. D600 is still under warranty.
I want a reliable device.
option 3 offer to send a pledge, I'm sure the seller will agree)))
That's because you want a reliable one, and I recommend the later model D600. In fairy tales about the D700 mileage of two owners of 26 thousand, I personally do not believe it. Of course, miracles do happen, but usually life is much more prosaic.
Alexey, after replacing the shutter it is quite possible for yourself. And half a million before the replacement ...
That is likely to be so, and the second owner will assure that he is not a dream or spirit, and blame everything on the first.
And how do you check the shutter changed, or not? And is this real?
The master of the technical center will definitely determine. When inspecting yourself, pay attention to the presence of notches in the screws of the case, examining them under a high magnification. If you have the slightest doubt, do not take it.
If the camera with a range of 10 thousand - then obviously the shutter was changing. But there is nothing wrong with that.
26000 is specifically tell)))
Probably need to introduce myself.
I don’t need show-offs, in vain you are so. I am not a pro, I do not earn this. I photograph Kotikov at exhibitions of his own for sale. Perhaps I will grow up to be an animal painter, so I want ff. For portraits, d3100 + fifty dollars was enough for me 1.8
in general, most animalists work with crop. much more convenient.
But of course this is for everyone to choose.
however go to youtube or just look at xt10 reviews
If you want ff., Take ff., Do not be disappointed, but be prepared for more mass and size.
Then D600 will naturally suit you, take it and don’t even bother, it will be enough for you and you will be happy !!!
Hello Arkady!
Recently I noticed in my XNUMX, when rocking the carcass (and lightly shaking) forward - backward, and right - left, inside you can hear some kind of slight clacking, forward - backward clack - clack, up - down clack - clack !!! As if something was hanging out there! From the camera I took off everything that was just being removed, left one naked carcass, but the clacking did not disappear, and the faster the swing, the more pronounced the knock! What can it clatter? And how can this affect the continued operation of the camera? And do you have this in your camera! Well, in general, has anyone encountered such a problem? Please write, otherwise I've already started to worry!
Thank you!
There is one. Doesn't bother.
It’s hard to answer, I didn’t have this.
Sergey just checked a similar situation on his camera that something clicks dangles lightly inside, even found out that there are some difficulties in mounting the on-camera flash when you open it and all the clicks disappear.
Yes, Konstantin, I also click on these griefs, and when you open, the clatter disappears, but still something continues to clatter inside the camera !!!
maybe it's dangling frosted glass or glass with focus points in the viewfinder. I have it in canon 40d. Doesn't bother.
do not bother, the camera removes all the main modes that work? By the way, what year did you take the camera, was I still puzzled by this question before buying my own? What is the second figure on the serial?
Many people also tell me not to bother! The camera shoots perfectly, everything works fine, but of course this confused me at first, but now I started to let it go a little! Bought in 2012, the second number is “3”! And how the serial is generally deciphered. Do you know?
Shook d70 and d1x - strumming.
according to the serial it’s impossible to establish where and how this camera was released.
Nikon herself speaks about this quite definitely - various units use their own
serial numbers in production
According to my calculations, cameras with the number 23 were tentatively released between 10.2010 and 07.2011.
By the noise. I am an electronic engineer, the principle of operation of the CMOS matrix does not cause me problems.
The matrix noise of any digital device consists of monochrome noise in the luminance channel (such as a black and white signal), (excuse me, I use the terms of the CEA engineer) and RGB chromatic noise. D700 still captivates me that she has almost completely !! no chromatic noise. They are the ones who ruin the picture on evening and night shoots. It is very tedious to deal with chromatic noise_ almost always it leads to a serious loss of clarity. The noise in the luminance channel can be dealt with very effectively, I use my own suppression algorithms, and they do not lead to loss of resolution in details. I do not use my own noise reduction on the D700. Do you have an idea that the D5xxx series is better in terms of noise, this is subjective. This DX series has exactly the chromatic noises that just ruin me. Another note - the D700 has a base ISO of 200, and a sensitivity of 100 for me as an engineer raises questions - how is this done? But there is a very interesting fact - if you set ISO L0 - D700, then the color resolution increases very noticeably, I checked it repeatedly
Good afternoon, at the moment I have Nikon D7100 + Tamron 28-75 2.8 + SB-700, non-profitly renting love stories, friends, animals, etc. I plan to create a small home studio, and start trying to earn some money on a hobby, I thought about the full frame (I feel that I’ve grown :) Will I have enough D700 for the same tasks + studio, there is a good offer to buy this miracle, I’ve already exhausted it all) I really want to, but I'm afraid to take the D800 (used) since I think that expensive glass + a new laptop for post-processing will be needed, the budget for the sale of what I have (except for sb-700 I really like) will be 130 kilobbles, I ask professionals for practical advice, please :)
D700 is a perfect transition from D7100, I also switched myself and now I'm not overjoyed! It will be enough for your needs above the roof, and don't even think about the D800, just throw your money away. It alone surpasses seven hundred - in pixels, photo and video resolution, which allows you to print photos of very large formats, and that's it, in the steel D700 at its best! The D700 even has a better image quality sensor! And the glasses need the same ones, both on the D700 and on the D800, they are both in full frame, everything will depend on your needs and budget. If you need high-quality, voluminous, juicy, cool pictures, then, accordingly, you need good expensive glasses! The choice is yours!!!
Thank you very much for the answer, most likely I will do so) I will look in the direction of good glasses, further on the circumstances)
Hello Arkady, I have a problem such as you described in the review n3 nuisance only on the s5pro fujfilm; it works like a poltergeist with nikon sb-600 and with sb-910 excellent and on the second camera nikon d7100 flash both work fine. Fujivilma 20.000 mileage visual inspection hot shoe-excellent. What do you think the matter is in the flash or in the shoe?
Good day! Please tell me if it makes sense to change d300s to d700? Thank you in advance!
d300s. Get the AF50 1,8D, the crop will have a portrait portrait and good autofocus.
I have 50 mm f 1.8 and even 85mm f 1.8, but I wanted something more, so I got the idea of a budget full frame
Yes, it makes sense. But it’s better to change to D 600-610, the price is about the same for used ones, and the price is usually much better.
Thanks for the advice! But the d600 is embarrassed by the lack of buttons, which I’m already used to using
OK Look for the D700, it's just hard to find in fair condition, and at a real price. It’s even easier to find 800-810, in a less tainted state than 700. Look at them if the buttons are fundamental.
Thank you very much!
Tell me, please, what is the real price of d700? On Avito, about 50-60 mp are sold
for 60 you can take 800, a little expensive.
Thanks a lot! I will at least be guided in the prices.
Guys, it's time to close the topic on the D700!
1. The camera is good! It was !!! Everything is out of date, worn out! Forget about her!
2. In good condition - a rarity! The price tag is too high!
3. It will only work if you accept her as a gift! And then for beginners!
Answered everything!
Stupidity.
Not all stupidity. The second point is the honest truth. The first point is only a call to forget. I disagree with the third. And the topic will subside on its own when this camera really becomes uninteresting.
the first item is outdated. not even so - OBSOLETE !!!!! 11111
If you really argue, then it would be nice to argue your words!
Deprecated by what specific criteria?
the colors are not the same, but the megapixels are not the same)
1. Resolution of the matrix: 12 megapixels is really small! For everything!
2. Matrix sensitivity: About 2000 ISO while maintaining an acceptable picture.
3. Narrow dynamic and color ranges: 12.2 (versus 14.8 for D810); 23,5 bit (vs 25,7 for D810)
4. Primitive light meter.
5. Not 100% frame coverage in the viewfinder.
6. One slot for a memory card.
7. Bad LiveView without video.
8. Not available for more than 5 years: Unable to find a guaranteed new camera. In good condition is also very difficult.
9. There are better and more functional replacements. Some are very affordable - obsolescence Karl!
The D700 was a good camera for its day. But in 2017, we need a fresher one! And let all sorts of oldfags shoot at least on one-megapixel Nokia. They no longer understand today's realities ...
It's not a photographer yet, but a Newfag!
Well yes. In everything you are right somewhere.
But for those who are looking for d300 with FF and who do not need a video or live view, this carcass is well suited ..
Not this way! "It's not a boy's speech, but a husband's!" I painted everything objectively! If the financial situation does not allow buying a good replacement - questions to our ...!
It's good if an oldfag occasionally shoots some film F3 to comfort his soul ... But when a commercial photographer starts to save money on updating the camera fleet or even worse - on the purchase of high-aperture fixes ... Put out the light! Although Norot sees no difference ... No, and no trial!
“Is this a club of lovers of inaccurate proverbs?”
- Not in the eyebrow, but in kvass!
Good day . Please advise the amateur whether it is worth buying a d700 if there is a d7000, or look towards d610. It really hurts to like the d700. Briefly why? Thank you for the advice that I have listened to more than once. Do not consider it work. Thank you.
* because you like it!
in fact, this is the most important factor. Well, six hundred is still a love toy. The only argument “against” d700 is if you keep d7000 for yourself, and will be engaged in commercial filming for two carcasses. The difference in ergonomics between the d700 and the d7000 will be confusing, in this case it MAY be better to take the 610.
If you don’t plan to clearly shoot with a 700K, then the dXNUMX ... I like it. That's all.
Thank you.
Deprecated by what specific criteria. I want to buy a d700, they say a worse image than a d610. There are d90 and d200. Only ISO higher workers are needed.
Arkady, good afternoon. For many years I have been reading reviews and comments on the joybook. Thank you, your reviews are great! The question is simple: there is a Nikon D90 from 18-105 and 28-70 2,8, I want FF, I did not hold the d700 in my hands, I just downloaded the ravas from you. How much will the d610 picture beat the d700? I haven’t filmed kindergartens, schools, photo shoots, weddings. Thank you.
Not winning, but losing!
Thanks for the answer. The d700 matrix confuses - the maximum print size is a 60 cm by 35 cm spread. 13 megapixels. You like Sergei d700, I saw the review above. What lenses do you use?
There is enough fifty dollars so far, but I'm getting ready to purchase a wide-angle lens!
Thanks for the answer. While the choice problem has disappeared, the money was successfully spent by his wife.
Nonsense! The picture on the D610 in all respects is better than the D700!
To close the topic of "advantages" D700 enclose a table -
I don’t know how anyone, but from d610 you can get a pretty good color (I'm for skinton). There are many examples of this. Only you need to show ravs in RT (equal therapy is a free developer) + apply a profile created by a user with the nickname IVX (lives on NikonKlab and FotoRu), especially under d610. A person who realistically sees color well. I show davas from d700 (there simply isn’t a normal color in it) in the same RT. The result is very good.
Good afternoon. My 5 began to fail in this way at low (-XNUMX, and below) temperatures after twenty to thirty minutes of operation, the entire charge “drains” and stops working. The display reads Error. Warm up at home and all the rules. When you press the trigger, something chirps (it looks like a shutter) like on a car when the battery is discharged and the bendex slips along the flywheel.
With a loss of capacity, the diaphragm mechanism does not work out a cycle. Have a couple of Akum and do not bother. Repeated shutter release solves problems (resets the cycle of the iris / mirror / shutter mechanism). This problem continues with Nikon D1, there is the same trouble. The diaphragm drummer consumes the bulk of energy.
Does not help. It turns on only after warming up. On the forum, I read what someone had on the D7000. After the repair, the receipt said “connector repair”.