According provided by lens Nikon N AF-S Nikkor 28mm 1: 1.8G Nano Crystal Coat SWM RF Aspherical many thanks to Alexander Fetisov.
The Nikon N AF-S Nikkor 28mm 1: 1.8G Nano Crystal Coat SWM RF Aspherical lens in my review will be called Nikon 28 / 1.8G. This lens is the first of its kind, and until then Nikon only had 28 / 2.8 class autofocus 'screwdriver' lenses (Nikon AF Nikkor 28mm 1: 2.8D and the like) and 28 / 1.4 (Nikon AF Nikkor 28mm 1: 1.4D). In terms of aperture ratio, the Nikon 28 / 1.8G is closest to the old Nikon class 28/2 manual lenses (Nikon Nikkor 28mm 1: 2 AI and the like). It is worth noting that Nikon has been producing 28 mm fixes since 1960, the first of which was Nippon Kogaku Japan Nikkor-H Auto 1: 3.5 f = 2.8cm.
Nikon 28 / 1.8G was introduced in April 2012 and belongs to the new line of full-length Nikon lenses. Wide-angle lenses in this line include the Nikon 35 / 1.8G and Nikon 24 / 1.8G and 20 / 1.8G.
The Nikon 28 / 1.8G looks rather large, but at the same time quite light. The lens weighs 330 grams. The case is entirely made of plastic with a metal bayonet mount. Nevertheless, the lens is assembled well without any complaints.
The lens has a gold ring near the front lens, which usually indicates a high level of lens performance. But, to be honest, because of the plastic case and light weight, holding the lens in your hands does not feel as much pleasure as from old metal Nikkors: (And the country of origin is China.
The lens focuses using a SWM motor (Silent Wave Motor). Focusing is fast enough, quiet and accurate (tested with camera Nikon D700). Nikon 28 / 1.8G will fit all Nikon digital SLR cameras, even to those who don’t inboard motor focusing. Previous 28mm fixes did not have a built-in focusing motor. The closest focusing distance is 25 cm and the maximum macro zoom ratio is 1: 4.5. With such a small MDF and a wide angle, you can try to shoot unusual shots with the play of perspective and depth of field.
On the case there is a window with a focus distance scale in meters and feet, as well as one depth of field label for F / 16. It’s a pity there is no hard stop for quick and accurate aiming at infinity. Also, you can find the focus mode switch 'M / AM'. In the 'M / A'automatic focusing is available with the priority of manual control - as soon as you start rotating the focusing ring manually, the lens disables autofocus. Previous versions of 28mm fixes did not have this mode.
The focusing ring is very wide, rubberized, in the active position it rotates 100 degrees. Due to the fact that the lens is quite chubby, such a small stroke of the focus ring is quite enough for comfortable work with manual focus. During auto focus, the ring remains stationary. In manual focus mode, when the ring reaches its extreme positions, it does not rest, but continues to rotate, slipping. I did not notice any lag in the focus ring, about which some lens users write.
The lens is internally focused. To be precise, Nikon 28 / 1.8G uses 'RF' - 'Rear Focusing' - 'Rear Focusing' type focusing. With this focusing, only the rear lens group (from the bayonet side) moves. The absence of rotation of the front lens and the elongation of the trunk allows you to conveniently use any light filters. The diameter of the filters is 67 mm. I wouldn't mind a 77mm diameter like the Nikon 20 / 1.8G.
The lens uses an aperture with 7 blades, which form a more or less round hole at the F / 2-F / 4 values, which affects the nature of the luminous discs in the blur zone (example on f / 2.8) If you close the aperture larger than F / 4, then getting the nuts in the blur zone becomes much easier (example on F / 5.6, crop of a picture) On covered diaphragms, you can get the effect of 14 ray star. Diaphragm up to f / 16, Nikon 28 / 1.8G is 'type'G'and has no aperture ring.
Nikon 28 / 1.8G attracts with the inspiring letter 'N' in its name. 'N' stands for 'Nano Crystal Coat' - nanocrystalline optical coating. Such enlightenment allows you to cope well with glare and flare, and also creates excellent color reproduction. Most likely, only one of the lenses of this objective has' N'-coating.
Indeed, Nikon 28 / 1.8G behaves very well in side and backlight. If you really try very hard and drive a 'hard' sun or other bright light source into the frame, then you can get a couple of small highlights.
The lens comes with a plastic bayonet hood HB-64, which can be installed in the opposite position for transportation. There is a white mark on the front of the lens for quick lens hood installation. I did not notice much difference when working with and without a lens hood, the lens itself creates a good contrasting image, and the lens hood can help out only in very extreme shooting conditions. In this case, the lens hood is more likely to be the protector of the front lens :), and on the camera the lens with the lens hood looks more solid.
In addition to special enlightenment, the Nikon 28 / 1.8G uses two aspherical elements in its optical design, shown below.
The lens was sharp at F / 1.8 and very sharp at covered apertures, especially in the center of the frame. Only at F / 1.8 sharpness sags a bit around the edges, but still the lens keeps itself very dignified. Distortion is small, not very noticeable in the photographs. Friging a little disappointed (chromatic aberration in the blur zone) on open diaphragms. Along the edges of the frame, even at very closed apertures, you can get a stratification of contrasting parts into green or purple components (see crop 1: 1 of the right edge of the picture). And also - noticeable vignetting at F / 1.8. But overall the lens showed good image quality :).
Nikon 28 / 1.8G at times outperforms the cheap (and, to be honest, not the most successful) Nikon AF Nikkor 28mm 1: 2.8D.
Here link to the archive with the originals - 229 MB, 17 photos in .NEF format (RAW) from the Nikon camera D700 (FX).
On cameras Nikon DX (on cropped cameras) EGF the lens will be 42 mm, which is why it turns into a universal fast standard fix. Considering the considerable cost of this lens, I think that for cameras Nikon DX it’s better to do simpler Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 35mm 1: 1.8G SWM Asphericalor look to the side Sigma AF 30mm 1: 1.4 EX DC HSM.
Despite all its titles 'inscribed' on the lens barrel, the Nikon 28 / 1.8G is more of a 'typical amateur lens' (although its price obviously doesn't know anything about it).
The real prices of the Nikon N AF-S Nikkor 28 mm 1.8 G Nano Crystal Coat SWM RF Aspherical lens in popular online stores can look at this linkor in the price block located below:
Nikon now has the following 28 mm autofocus fixes:
- Nikon AF Nikkor 28mm 1: 2.8 (MKI)
- Nikon AF Nikkor 28mm 1: 2.8 (MKII)
- Nikon AF Nikkor 28mm 1: 2.8D (MKIII)
- Nikon N AF-S Nikkor 28mm 1: 1.8G
- Nikon AF Nikkor 28mm 1: 1.4D
- Nikon N AF-S Nikkor 28mm 1: 1.4E ED
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Nikon N AF-S Nikkor 28mm 1: 1.8G Nano Crystal Coat SWM RF Aspherical, like many other new Nikkor lenses, is quite light in a new-fashioned plastic case with a good image quality. But whether it is worth overpaying for the golden ring and the letter N in the lens name remains a mystery.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval.
I like contrast, color reproduction, etc.
I bought it for group shots, you can’t imagine any better. High detail, the edges are a little wrinkled.
On the side points with focusing, he has problems. And, apparently, this is not a problem of my instance.
I also have this glass. Picked up in a place with d600 made a couple of shots at an open from a relatively close range and gasped. Prior to that, I used the d7100 and the token 12-24 (if you compare the focal) Well, in general, the d7100 now lies before vacation or as a spare camera.
As for the agony of choice, I have 28 / 1.8g, 50 / 1.4g, 85 / 1.4d, 90 / 2.8 macro, 35 / 1.8g dx. Got rid of all zooms except tokina 124. These were from 18-105 and 17-50 / 2.8 to 18-35 / 1.8 sigma. I shoot weddings, family events and I do not have a certain discomfort. I agree that you will not quickly override the fix to catch the moment. But I always think as if I were the director of a film - you need close-ups, general, broad, and again genre - all in due time. I went to fixes when I realized on crop that 35 / 1.8 and 50 / 1.8 give a better picture than any other zooms, but on FF fixes are generally revealed.
I prefer the picture quality of the fixes over the convenience of the zooms. All the zooms made me lazy and my brain too, I shot at extreme focal values, and at intermediate ones when it was necessary to frame quickly or there was no time to move away, i.e. You deliberately miss the subject for 85 mm and, for the sake of speed, grab a 35 or 50 mm focal length at the zoom to quickly shoot, but at zooms, other working apertures and, accordingly, the drawing is already more mediocre for me. I am not going to argue about individual versions of zoom lenses, most likely it will be more convenient in normal hands 24-70 / 2.8 and 80-200 / 2.8 or analogs. Yes - but 24-70 is a different budget, and if something happens to it, then you lose your entire budget and the entire range of these focal ones. And I will have at least 2 fixes from this range.
I have fun with photography, having fun with customers and walking is the best thing about this 28mm lens for taking the most atmospheric shots with emotions.
And I can not stand the photographers who come to the wedding like mercenaries with a dead face, compensating for this hefty lens on the camera.
Alexey, you almost dispelled my doubts about the lenses. Now I am shooting on a crop. I mostly use 35 and 50 mm fixtures. There were zooms: whale 18-55, 55-200, 18-105 Nikon's and 17-50 2.8 sigma, but I sold them, tk. do not compare with fixes. Now I choose a full frame and lenses for it. On the budget I stopped at d610. I thought to take a zoom 24-120 with a constant aperture, but now I am thinking about how to better buy 85 and 28 to the existing fifty. Yes, it is inconvenient to re-peg, but the aperture requires sacrifice)))
I heard that this lens is fully revealed with cameras that have high resolution. For example, the D850 takes photos with this lens better than anything else.
I was considering this option on a crop, but the geometry was scared off. A frame with a pink church confirms this, the high-rise building in the distance to the right resembles the Leaning Tower of Pisa, and this kind of curvature is not corrected by any photo editors.
At the end of the review, Arkady says “On Nikon DX cameras (on cropped cameras) the lens EFR will be 44mm, which makes it a universal high-aperture standard fix.” The angle of the image for a full frame is 75 degrees, for a crop it is -53 degrees. There is hope that it will be better on the crop.
…… And such curvature is not corrected by any photo editors… .. I didn’t know… .. You have no desire or no possibility? Editing takes less than 5 seconds
Sure you may. But apparently there was no time or a person did not notice.
Lord, you have nothing more to do than to find fault with the little things.
Who needs to in this photo saw everything for himself on the glass and made conclusions for himself.
No matter how it cannot be smooth in any way at all, in principle, because it is wide, and the frame is not shot perpendicular to the subject.
This is not a tilt-shift, but an ordinary shirk. Why would he still rule the prospect?
I used the lens for 1 year - a great fix with little distortion and rich color; good for group shots. Now put it up for sale, because took wider Tokin 16-28. If anyone is interested, I can send examples of pictures and send to the regions.
Vasily tell us about Takin - is she good or what?
My favorite fix. Unfortunately, I sold it because I switched to Sony mirrorless. But even on Sony A7s I shot half a year manually! Objective bomb. Gives volume in a photo at a wide angle. I bought somewhere a year ago a Sony with A7s with 28mm F2 I thought it would also be something close. But there it was! Nikon gives volume and Sony just takes off fixes. A close analogue to me is Lake 25mm 1.4 on a micro 4/3 system. It also washes cool and beautiful bokeh only on the recount, it is 50mm a bit narrow.
There is one, I think to sell. Not fish, not meat .. But Sigma 35 1.4 ART is superb. I work with them.
Especially where the lighting literally dropped a little and your sigma ... the picture is nishtyak - everything else is gune, it was not for nothing that the adjustment station was released on it, at our box office, I took it for 300r / day, adjusted it, but a little dark - gune, as it was and remained
You shouldn't have brought Charles François into your epic. What I mean by "gounod", then write in plain text. Keep the style, in general. Against the background of everything else, the source will not be conspicuous.
This is your complete superb, not focus, not speed, not color, I don’t know what you are looking at, but if you like the result, for God's sake, this superb was yours exactly 4 hours after that it returned to the shelf in the store, the glass was adjusted when buying but everything equally smeared that the flight will not fly shorter than shit it is in shit in Africa
And yes, I forgot to write that your superb 35 1.4A was on 4 carcasses including Fuj s5pro d610 d7100 and d80 so if there was a normal glass with at least one carcass it might be left, and since everyone had the same result. MEANS RARE SHAVE.
Good afternoon comrade! I have been reading your reviews for many years and I believe them and am glad to them, thank you very much for your work!
Such a question, I found such a used one for 25 rubles. There is still not enough money for a new tamron or 000mm sigma for Fix. To shoot mainly growth portraits or waist-high in rooms with natural light on the D35. What do you say, is it worth taking or better saving for full 700 mm? Landscapes can also be rented, but I do not specialize in this. People weddings are mostly
For people it is better 35-50mm. With widths, it’s more difficult to shoot people.
First of all, I appeal to Arkady, but whoever has this lens also ask for help with advice. There is D610, 80-200 μ3 to it, 24-85 2,8-4 and 35 1,8 DH. I want to exchange 35mm and 24-85 for 28mm 1,8. The question is whether 28 mm + 80-200 will be enough to comfortably shoot commercial shots. In the future, I plan to buy 50 1,8d for such a bundle. Will the speed of 28 1,8 be enough for reporting? Possible problems with such a bundle? I would be glad to any advice. Thanks!
"Is the speed of 28 1,8 enough for reporting?" - for reporting what, excuse me?
Well, you understand, we cannot know all your ideas.
Commerce is inconvenient. 24-70 / 2.8 or equivalent is essential. At 28mm you will need to climb out of your skin to control. Reporting with one 28mm is difficult.
Thanks so much for the answers. Peter Sh. For reporting at the wedding (ransom, registry office) + matinees, school. As if the dynamics are not big basically, but it will be present. But for such purposes, 28 1,8 in autofocus speed will be suitable?
Arkady, thank you for your resource! Everything is very useful, if you need any information on glass - immediately to you! ) Arkady, tell me, I recently filmed a wedding at 35mm 1,8DX + 610 (not for money, but as a guest) In principle, I am satisfied with the result, upset only in places with autofocus and geometry of course too! What am I talking about, if 35DX 1,8 was able to more or less cope in slightly difficult conditions, really 28 1,8 cannot adequately work? Suppose if you shoot a registry office, matinee, group, use it for a walk, for a room? And in addition, if you take 50 1,8d for a portrait in small rooms, where 80-200 would be unrealistic to use?
Everything rests on convenience and the final result. You can shoot at 18-55 and d610. But after 10-20 swabeds, other priorities and a different understanding come.
And for example, if you compare 35 1,8 U and 28 1,8, which one should you give preference to? I'm interested in the quality of the picture, the volume and nature of the glass, so to speak. I like the focal 35 mm, but I think 28 mm is more versatile focal. Korche, I can not decide in any way, help with advice please. I would take 24-70 2,8 without hesitation, but my budget is only 10-12 thousand UAH. I'm afraid to make the wrong choice. Tuned to 28 + 50 + 80-200, maybe 35 + 80-200, but then I will be left without a wide angle. Help, my head already "hurts" from the torment with the choice of the working set.
35 is more versatile, 28 is wider. A 35mm lens is believed to produce a realistic and three-dimensional image over a full frame.
Thank you for your prompt reply. It remains only to overcome myself, since I tuned in to 28 mm. I just want to switch to fixes in the short and medium range. Yes, it's inconvenient, zoom is preferable for reporting, but the picture is the same .. It turns out as in everything: until you try it yourself, you won't understand! Thanks again, Arkady. Good luck to you. And a short question, 20-35 2,8d in terms of price-quality criterion for a reportage?
20-35 old monster, not bad in itself. There will always be questions, and there is no single answer to each of the millions of lenses. Tomorrow you will ask about 20-35 2.8 Tokin, etc. need experience.
Thank you for the answers and your work for amateur photographers!
It is comfortable. I am engaged in commerce, I make 70 percent of the frames on it except for portraits
I have been using such a lens for a long time, frankly, I am 70 percent satisfied with it, and it’s very good for shooting video.
And what does not suit you? He has no competitors for his money.
Took 28 1.8 for reporting scenes. What I liked: a wide view, but the faces are still normal)), color rendition and a very small aiming distance, somewhere 13cm from the front lens to the subject.
Sharpness at 50 1.8, little chromaticity, but the sharpest thing that I tried is 85 1.8.
Used glass may have uneven clarity across the field of the frame, you need to check before buying.
But in general - the required focal length, after 28mm and portrait lenses there may not be enough 14-24 or a fisheye for a full set.
I also have this glass. Picked up in a place with d600 made a couple of shots at an open from a relatively close range and gasped. Prior to that, I used the d7100 and the token 12-24 (if you compare the focal) Well, in general, the d7100 now lies before vacation or as a spare camera.
And about the torment of choice, then I have 28 / 1.8g, 50 / 1.4g, 85 / 1.4d, 90 / 2.8 macro, 35 / 1.8g dx. I got rid of all the zooms except for 124 tokens. These were from 18-105 and 17-50 / 2.8 to sigma 18-35 / 1.8. I rent weddings, family events and I don’t have any particular discomfort. I agree quickly you do not overtake the fix to catch the moment. But I always argue as if I were the director of the picture - we need close-ups, general, broad, and again genre - all in due time. I went to fixes when I realized on crop that 35 / 1.8 and 50 / 1.8 give a better picture than any other zooms, but on FF fixes are generally revealed.
I prefer the quality of the fixation picture than the convenience of zooms. All the zooms made me lazy and my brain too, I shot at extreme focal values, and at intermediate ones when it was necessary to quickly frame or had no time to retreat, i.e. you intentionally miss the plot for 85 mm and, for the sake of speed, grab your arm 35 or 50 mm focal length on the zoom to quickly shoot, but on the zoom other working apertures and, accordingly, the picture is already more mediocre as for me. I’m not going to argue about individual versions of zoom lenses, most likely it will be more convenient in normal hands 24-70 / 2.8 and 80-200 / 2.8 or analogues. Yes - but 24-70 is a different budget, and if something happens to him, then you lose your entire budget and the entire range of these focal points. And I will have at least 2 fixes from this range.
I have fun with photography, having fun with customers and walking is the best thing about this 28mm lens for taking the most atmospheric shots with emotions.
And I can not stand the photographers who come to the wedding like mercenaries with a dead face, compensating for this hefty lens on the camera.
Trochi is not good; Ale only on the main frame. Even the background is acceptable. Just a clerk for tidy apartments and going to business, if you need to see all the "beauty" Yes, I can, the zavdyaki 1.8, as I increase my work, take a "professional" for the deputies of a picture from those who do not call "minds." But it’s not just the fun of the foreign cottages and hotel rooms, that’s the less space)).
25.02.2019/28/1.8. Good afternoon. I have been using the Nikkor 2012mm f2G lens since 3. I bought it new, did not adjust it (there were rumors about the difference in clarity and sharpness of the specimen). I shoot them mainly in situations with weak (complex) lighting on a fully open aperture on DX format cameras (FIJI S5, S1, S2, Nikon D2x, D1.8x, DXNUMXxs, etc.). In general, I am very pleased with the results of its use (on DX cameras). The focus is accurate, the picture is sharp with a good perspective and rich color (color reproduction is just class !!!). There were mistakes when working on open fXNUMX, but this is understandable in view of a little flu. I had to get used to it before I started taking quite sharp pictures on it in an open aperture. It beautifully reproduces the color of the sky and clouds. It showed itself very well when working in backlight. - for harm. It’s only permissible to set UV. For reporting it’s not good, because there will be too frequent misses of focus. In manual mode, it is better not to use it, because good result does not work out.
I want to take myself a lens from this series, only 24 1.8 or 20 1.8. So far I’m determined.
If the full frame and purely based on the focal length of 20 mm is more interesting. 24 is more universal, of course, but it is usually on one of the zooms. And 20 mm is already really wide.
How to clean this lens, how is the front lens removed? Cannot find video for AF-S G models, all in D.
There along the front ringlet comes off, as in 16-85. Under the ring are the screws. Or maybe not)
Hello Arkady. I have a D5600 with 18-55 and 55-200, I want to replenish it with some one 28,35 or 50. According to the "filling" the soul lies at 28mm. What do you think ?
50 is an inconvenient FR, that's for sure. 35 on crop - very good, fix 28 - have not tried.
You can also consider sigma 24mm art.
Has anyone also thought which is better: nikon 28mm 1.8 or sigma 24mm art?
Hello Arkady. Thank you very much for your work and reviews, on which you can say I grew up)))
I have such a question - I am looking after the lens. Initially I wanted to take 25-70 2.8 because of its flexibility, but now, I'm staring at 28 1.4.
The scenario of using landscapes on vacation, and I am in the background of the landscape)))
I have a 20mm 1.8 excellent sharp glass, but for me it is too wide.
Testing 24-70 2.8 second-hand on open sharpness only in the center of the frame at 24-35 focal points ... Maybe such a copy was caught ... But the seller said that it was "physics" and the lens was completely corrected ...
What is the best lens for my use case? (money allows you to take a used 24-70 2.8 or 28 mm 1.4 e)
Thank you!
Try the old manual NIKON 28 mm f / 2.8 Ai-s. Truly a masterpiece of optical engineering. It is not easy to get it in good condition from us, I ordered mine from Japan. Periodically I have been taking pictures of it for three years, one of my favorite glasses.
Sharpness across the entire field of the frame at 2.8, distortion is practically absent - portraits with the right approach are excellent. MDF - 0.2, you can even shoot macro with it.
Dmitry, I recommend another good Nikkor 28 / 1.8G, there is a review for it on Radozhiv:
https://radojuva.com/2014/11/nikon-n-af-s-28-mm-1-8-g/
Not for work, I would choose it and some 24-70 / 2.8 - Sigma or Tokinu.
You gave me a link on the same topic (about 28 1.8 :-))
I just looked for reviews on 28 1.4 and practically did not find them in Russian, the search brought me to the already familiar good old site, but this is how this model is described - 28 1.8 ...
In theory, 28 mm is just the focal point of most old smartphones (which always had one camera, and not, as now, 4 it is not clear why). Those. such a focus in theory should be enough for most tasks.
In general, while in thought between 24-70 2.8 and 28 mm 1.4 ...
The budget allows you to take one good glass, but I don't want to guess ...
Thank you all for the advice. I'm not ready for a manual. Often everything is jogging and running ... Not mature enough yet.
> I didn't see the link to the article, I was in a hurry)
*
28 / 1.4 is expensive and often, for a shirik, it makes no sense to overpay the difference between 28 / 1.8 and 28 / 1.4 and buy such an expensive high-aperture fix.
But 28mm will be small on trips, zoom will often be required, but not. It would be more practical to buy 24-85 or 24-120 with a stub. Or 24-70 / 2.8. One fix is indispensable, whatever one may say.
I have 70-200 2.8 ... I shot a portrait, animals ... But for the landscape and myself / my companion against its background I wanted to take 28 mm. There is 20 1.8, but it is very wide for me ... I recently twisted 24-70 2.8 in my hands - there was sharpness on the open only in the center of the frame, and there was soap around the edges ... Perhaps it was a problem of a particular specimen, but it upset me a lot ... Initially I looked at side 24-70, but now thinking ...
Native 24 1.8 new is very good, in some ways even better than 24 1.4
I took it and did not regret it, but almost immediately such a question arose ...
On all charts, 14-24 came out a little clearer than this fix, but when I compared them on one d850, the fix won with a large advantage.
Compared under the same conditions. What do you say, maybe it costs 14-24 to carry the adjustment, since according to the resolution schedule of 10 and 30 lines, it should be better (not worse) than this fix?
Not worth it. Mtf is being built on the open. When working on the same diaphragms, the fix is tightened from that and the MTF is better
Good afternoon. You don't have to carry anything. Everything is natural. Simply 28mm is made and designed specifically for cameras like this that have tremendous high resolution. Therefore, he behaves like this on 850 ohm nicknames. Naturally it will be sharper than 14:24.
I have nikon d750. I think between this lens and the nikkor 24 mm 1.8, which one would you recommend?
I took this lens on a D7100 crop (with the prospect of changing the carcass to D750). Before him there was Nikkor 35 (super lens, no doubt about it), then I changed it to Sigma 30 Art, and sooooo regretted it. Focusing is slow and there are 50% misses (even when adjusted). Sold Art, took this Nikkor. I'll tell you - it's a fairy tale. Super fast and accurate, colors are Nikon's standard. In general, I am extremely pleased with the purchase. Sigma smokes on the sidelines)))
Very worthy glass, which has become standard on my d800.
F2.2
Another photo
How do you want the sea ... :(
Can you tell me where this was filmed?
Somewhere in Israel, probably, judging by the flags and the rescue booth.
Tell me, I choose 35k for crop, I don’t consider 35mm 1.8 for crop, is it better to take 35mm full-frame and get a cropped frame, or 28mm full-frame and shoot in terms of a little more than 35k, and won’t the 28mm geometry remain?
Seems like you're confused. 35mm is 35mm, and 28mm is 28mm, regardless of whether they are full-frame and which camera you put them on, the numbers on the crop will remain the same, you don’t need to recalculate anything.
In vain refuse 35 1.8DX.
That is, the geometry of people's faces is the same at 28mm and 35mm?
It is not clear how you made such a conclusion from what I wrote above, but no, not the same (while maintaining the scale of the face in the frame, of course)
Full-frame 35ka per crop is a staffer. If you initially wrote that you were choosing 35ku, then as for me, 28 is a more convenient focal length for crop, but it’s a taste for color, anyway, neither one nor the other is enough for the room
Thank you.
About the face geometry. If shot from the same distance, and then the 28mm frame is cropped to a width of 35mm (for comparison), then yes, the geometry will be the same. But you will come closer with 28 mm. And according to the EGF: either recalculate all lenses for crop 1,5 (which I don’t advise if you don’t also have an FF camera), or don’t recalculate any, even with SF. One FR from any lens will give an image of the same width.