answers: 59

  1. Paul
    05.02.2018

    Ha, I was still engaged in multi-exposure in the 3rd grade. My father taught me to shoot Zenith. And I got to his old CHANGE not yet 6 or 4 or 3 or XNUMX I don’t remember and proudly ran into the pioneer day. Sometimes the truth recalled that in addition to the cocking of the shutter, it was still necessary to rewind the film. But I was very surprised that the film did not end so long. My father laughed at me for a long time when I developed the film on my own and we saw the floor of the film is pristine and the rest had several shots on each frame. A couple of frames turned out really with multiple exposure and almost the correct exposure and when it was printed it was very interesting. Although it was probably the fault that was incorrectly exposed by inability to blame. Father then continued purposefully experiments with multiple exposure.

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  2. Natalia
    17.03.2019

    Good afternoon! Help please - on Nikon D5300 I can not turn on Multiple exposure mode and HDR mode - both bars are gray, when highlighted, the camera says “This parameter is not available with the current camera settings or with the current camera settings”, the M mode is set. Please tell me what else is needed to check to get the Multi-exposure and HDR modes working?

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    • B. R. P.
      17.03.2019

      Leave Mode M.

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      • Natalia
        17.03.2019

        I changed all modes - M, A, S, P - in none of them. Multiple exposure, HDR and Interval shooting do not work - these lines in the menu remain gray, inactive. What else can be changed? ...

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    • Valery A.
      17.03.2019

      Go to jeepeg.

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      • Natalia
        17.03.2019

        Valery, the jeep went over, changed all modes - M, A, S, P - in none of them Multiple exposure, HDR and Interval shooting do not work - these lines in the menu remain gray, inactive ... I don't know what else to change ...

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      • Valery A.
        17.03.2019

        What camera?

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      • anonym
        17.03.2019

        Disable bracketing and d-lighting. Autofocus lens

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  3. Natalia
    20.03.2019

    Many thanks to everyone for the advice! The issue was resolved by changing the lens - from the 35 mm 1.8 fixture I changed it to Nikon AF Nikkor 35-70mm 1: 2.8D and the Multiple exposure and Interval shooting modes started working! :)

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  4. Maria
    12.10.2019

    Good afternoon!
    Did I understand the topic correctly that multiple exposure for adjusting the exposure of complex shots (the object is very light, the background is very dark, the foreground is different from the object (neck-torso)) and a moving object is impossible?
    The problem, in short, is the same as with the bride's dress (probably). Only the bride can be asked to stand still, but the bird cannot. If the background were a little lighter, there would be no problem. Because of the background, the idea arose to expose something like this next time in two ways (
    Are there really no applications where one could copy an equalizer and perform an operation similar to multiple exposure?

    One could, of course, approach the problem “artistically” and kill the background. But the result, nevertheless, is not entirely successful.

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    • Michael
      12.10.2019

      Multiple exposure is not for adjusting exposure, but for gluing two different images. What you want is called exposure bracketing and hdr

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      • Maria
        12.10.2019

        Thank you!
        Then I don’t understand the essence of this feature.
        Her what, the camera makes orders of magnitude cooler than the editors.
        Through FS (and I sometimes do it through AE, since it is more convenient for me to work in it) I will connect two layers of 1000 in different ways, including an exact pixel-by-pixel mask.
        Again, I'm in novice photography, so I'm not sure. that until the end I understand the advantage of doing this in the camera.
        As for DOF, I can only say one hundred percent that the native is better.

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    • Roman
      12.10.2019

      Nit. The whole definition of multiple exposure is given in the first lines of the article. For a film, this is repeated exposure by a different frame; for a number, this is gluing several layers in Photoshop. Exposure settings for each frame can be the same or different, according to the situation.

      What you are talking about is compression of the dynamic range of the image. When you look at your bride in a white dress standing next to her husband in a black suit, the eye usually compresses the image in parts. Darkens the dress and brightens the suit. The camera has a fairly wide range, but cannot do it in fragments.

      There are two options. Offset of black and white dots during development (be careful not to use lights and shadows, only blacks and white to the last). Or shoot several frames with different exposures and display them in a mask.

      On dynamic frames or frames with people, the first method is used, they use the full DD of the camera. You have no time to shoot the bride three times. Yes, there are rarely such and such differences in brightness so that it is impossible to stretch the dress and suit. For the dress, you can still impose the mask on itself in the overlay carefully, the details will appear.

      In landscapes, you can shoot a few frames from a tripod to stretch out the darkest shadows and muffle a bit of the sun, which usually becomes a huge ball like that over the sky. But all this is not related to multiple exposure, or the attitude is very indirect. You expose the same frame, just select the best exposed areas from different frame options.

      Alternatively, you can combine these three methods. Take an overexposed shot where you like the shadows and save the result. Underexposed, where you like the lights - keep the result. And normally exposed - save the result too. Then overlay and underexposed on this normal frame and develop them using a mask. Where necessary - dress, where necessary - suit. It's not entirely fair, but it's convenient to work with.

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      • Maria
        12.10.2019

        Thank you very much, I’ll try to put it into practice.

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      • Maria
        12.10.2019

        Here is just how I programmatically combine such frames in raw format before rendering in jpeg and I did not understand. Sorry for the dullness, Google did not save)

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      • Roman
        12.10.2019

        No way. And photoshop doesn't work with JPEG internally, it works with uncompressed image. Therefore, you can process the frame in Ligthroom or Adobe Camera Raw as you like, open it in Photoshop and save it in PSD format, drive a few words there - all this will happen without loss. And save the finished result in JPEG.

        You can rummage YouTube for "non-destructive editing" - so you can go back to the edits and correct their development if necessary.

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      • Roman
        12.10.2019

        It just doesn't make sense to stack photos in a camera if you can do it all in post-processing. Nikon's trick was made to simulate a film “multiple exposure”, but there is no real sense in it. For example, if you want to combine two frames into one just for artistic purposes - a translucent cat on a translucent background. In Photoshop, you can change the blending mode, process with a mask, reduce / increase transparency - you control the result yourself. Nikon, on the other hand, will simply glue two photos one on top of the other with 50% opacity - it's like Photoshop with one setting. Well, maybe a few - I don't know, I didn't pick it up in detail. I prefer any post-processing to be done with handles, camera for fixation rather than processing.

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  5. Maria
    12.10.2019

    In general, the problem is partially solved in the editor, by decreasing the exposure (to show the white object in detail) and increasing the "shadow protection" parameter so that the background does not fall through, but the result looks a little unnatural (in my opinion)

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