answers: 81

  1. Daniel
    02.06.2017

    Good afternoon, Arkady, I found information about the Multi-CAM 1300. There are 3 cross-shaped dots, here I give a link. http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/NikonF5/focusing/index1.htm
    If it’s wrong, correct it, but if it’s right, correct the table) Thank you.

    Reply

    • Arkady Shapoval
      02.06.2017

      Fixed

      Reply

      • Andrew
        12.10.2019

        Good afternoon, I bought myself a Nikon d200 on ebay, everything is fine, but the annoyance is that autofocus does not want to work. I switch the focus to the S mode and it behaves like in the M focus mode when you press af-on in the viewfinder everything lights up in red focusing does not take place. In the menu settings a1 and a2, autofocus is selected, so I think or something I am doing wrong or something is broken. What can you advise?

        Reply

      • Andrew
        12.10.2019

        Lenses focus on another camera.

        Reply

      • Sergei
        16.09.2022

        Try resetting to factory settings

        Reply

      • Kate
        12.01.2023

        Maybe you have manual mode set on your lens, try switching to auto, it will suddenly help. Or maybe your camera just doesn’t like the conditions of photography so it can’t focus

        Reply

  2. Daniel
    02.06.2017

    Here is another picture of 1300.

    Reply

  3. Rust
    17.06.2017

    Thanks! At last! Briefly, clearly! The very essence.

    Reply

  4. Alexey
    23.07.2017

    Already the bourgeois link to this page))

    Reply

  5. Oleg
    23.10.2017

    Hello!
    Tell me please! If I understand correctly, then with a sigma of 150-500 which has a relative aperture of only 500: 1 per 6,3 mm, cameras like D3100 and D5300 should not focus, because they have no dots capable of working with such dark lenses. Why are they still autofocusing with this 500mm sigma? I mean the normal, not LiveView mode, when phase autofocus is involved.
    Thank you!

    Reply

    • Vlad
      28.07.2020

      It's not about the aperture itself, but about the amount of light. That is, roughly speaking, at an illumination of -1 ev and f5.6, the light will be the same as at 0ev and f8.0. Therefore, these cameras will be able to work with lenses darker than f5.6, but not in the entire declared light range. For example, they put 5600-70 300-4.5 in the doublekit for the d6.3, which doesn't seem to work. But moreover, it focuses even at dusk, if you choose a contrasting detail

      Reply

  6. Michael
    24.03.2018

    Thanks to the author for the review! Now I will know that the lens that I dreamed about (Tamron 150-600) will not fit my Nikon 5300 camera.

    Reply

  7. anonym
    22.07.2018

    Purely for the sake of tediousness, I will add: Advanced Multi-CAM 3500DX, which is in the D7100, works normally with a narrow aperture (5.6 and narrower) only in bright sunlight (at least with Tamron 70-300 model A005 - I will not say about native Nikon lenses).

    Reply

  8. Kolya
    12.12.2018

    Help me figure it out please, I'm afraid to confuse "soft" with "warm"

    We take specifically in comparison two carcasses - d7200 and d610

    We take the situation when the central point is not used, but for example, adjacent to it, but the same cross. In d 610 we have the opportunity to use 6 points (in addition to the central one) on apertures up to f8 and with an EV range of -1. In d7200, we are not able to focus with f8 (if you do not take into account the center point), but we have an EV value of -3. For example, both there and there we have a native dressed 50mm 1.4g

    The question is which of them will be more stable to focus in very low light and why. Thank you in advance.

    ps it is clear that if you use only the center, then d7200 wins

    Reply

    • Peter Sh.
      12.12.2018

      Kolya, in a nutshell.
      You need to be able to focus. The ability comes with experience, but it is not at all difficult in comparison with the ability to competently choose an angle and create a composition.
      For example, you can equally well focus in a bad light with both the D610 and D3s.
      So it’s better not to bother yourself with this.

      Reply

      • Valery A.
        12.12.2018

        Strongly answered. Not a techie, but a practitioner.

        Reply

    • Arkady Shapoval
      12.12.2018

      Under normal conditions, the difference will not be noticeable. In difficult conditions it will be different, including the d610 can win, since there is still the very logic of focusing.

      Reply

    • Kolya
      12.12.2018

      It’s all clear that experience and pens are more important. The question is precisely in the technical moment. I want to figure out for myself how it works technically and what comes from. If comes.

      For example, 0 EV from this table, at what aperture value? or not such a connection.

      Take for example my situation indirectly, having a d7000 and shooting at night in a club, with sb900, a girl dressed entirely in black, at a height of 28mm 1.8g, the center point often does not catch her at all, because the backlight from the flash is not enough to see. On bright clothes ok, on black and far away I rest against tech. device features. And since such work is not paid as I would like, there is a need to understand where to look at 7200 or 610 (we do not take into account the differences in the size of the matrix and the working ISO)

      That’s the question, if anyone knows for sure, as technologically advanced as possible, share your thoughts :)

      Reply

      • anonym
        12.12.2018

        If technosadrotski, then the minimum aperture is not related to the sensitivity and 7200 will be better. The ability to focus on f8 is provided by additional sensors, and the sensitivity of the sensors is just -3EV. And that number is “for no aperture”. But practically anything can be

        Reply

      • Peter Sh.
        12.12.2018

        Here the lens is more important. Personally, on D610 and D3s, the old film lenses like 50mm or 85mm f / 1.8D work best in the dark. Or the same old prof. zooms f / 2.8D. Even where g does not want to work at all. I do not know why.

        Reply

      • Pokemon
        12.12.2018

        I also met information that the screwdrivers focus more accurately.
        For example, I saw a post (it seems in the photo ru), where a person very much praised 35 / 2D for working in a club in the dark.

        Reply

      • Arkady Shapoval
        13.12.2018

        Other algorithms work with AF optics, they scour less and just hit the target. AF-S lenses like to think for a long time, they can slow down the focusing speed in low light, they love to scour. These are the work algorithms for which I answered a little higher.

        Reply

  9. Nicolas
    14.08.2019

    What a great article, with all the comments included. Over the past 4-5 years, I have often come here to refresh my memory. Question. Time goes by, z6 and z7 came out, they also have phase sensors on the matrix, as I understand it. They also have their own number, working apertures and EV range. Is it possible to organize them and add them to this table.
    ps Arkady, you are doing invaluable work, thanks for having this site - a cheat sheet :)

    Reply

  10. Alexey_S
    27.04.2020

    Excellent article - reference. Thank you very much for compiling and updating it.

    According to freshly added, I'm not sure that the D780 has a minimum sensitivity of -4.
    Brochures for new cameras (D6 and D780) have already been posted on the Nikon Asian website:
    https://www.nikon-asia.com/en_Asia/learn_and_explore/brochures?Category=learn-and-explore-new&Section=discover-nikon/brochures&Page+Size=100
    and according to the information in the D780

    AF detection range
    (ISO 100, 20˚C / 68˚F)
    • Viewfinder photography: -3 to +19 EV
    • Live view: -5 to +19 EV; -7 to +19 EV with low-light AF;

    Those. the module is the same as in the D750.

    Also found an interesting detail
    The Multi-CAM 1000 module probably differs slightly in implementation between the professional D200 (where it was first introduced) and subsequent amateur cameras.
    The D200 had some tricky group AFs and the ability to select 7 wide AF zones, which was no longer in the next cameras.

    Reply

    • Arkady Shapoval
      27.04.2020

      Module 1000 is the same, the logic and programming of its operation from camera to camera is different.
      As for the d780, I fixed it, indeed, there from -3 ev as in the d750.

      Reply

  11. Eugene
    26.05.2020

    Hello.
    I will tell you my experience. Preparing for a long trip on a yacht in the Pacific Ocean (8 months) I bought a SIGMA 18-35mm F1.8 DC HSM Art lens (NIKON D7100 camera).
    Your floor is swinging 24 hours a day. Focusing quickly is problematic. Selected shutter priority 1/800 or 1/1000. The camera shuts down the aperture to increase the depth of field. You need a fast lens. It was this high-aperture lens that made it possible to focus quickly. Of course I chose the central focus area. Used other lenses - worse. My simple conclusion is that the focusing speed depends on the lens aperture. One drawback of this lens is the weight of 800 grams. Shot thousands of beautiful pictures (landscape and not only).

    Reply

  12. Michael
    26.08.2020

    Hello. I read that the nikon d7000 has a bad focusing module. Nikon d7000 and d5300 have the same focusing module. And in fact, autofocus works the same for them or is it fixed in the d5300 firmware?

    Reply

  13. Michael
    26.08.2020

    And is the d7000 d5300 better focusing module than the d5100?

    Reply

    • B. R. P.
      27.08.2020

      As for the best module, do not be lazy to look at the total number of focus points and the number of cross points in the plate, at the beginning of the article, it's not difficult.

      Reply

      • Michael
        27.08.2020

        I choose from 5300 and 5100 and I want to understand it is worth paying extra and buying 5300 because of the larger number of autofocus points. But the 5300 has the same autofocus module as the 7000, and so I realized that it is not very good.

        Reply

  14. Minsk
    22.07.2022

    Hello, there is a choice between these camera models, Nikon D3 with a range of 2.5k shots, D4 up to 100k shots, D5 up to 100k shots, D850 is new, what do you advise, I want to start somewhere, if you take the D3 model, then half of the budget will remain, and with this money you can buy a couple of good lenses, what do you say?

    Reply

    • Arkady Shapoval
      22.07.2022

      these are clearly not cameras for a start, optics are much more important. Cheaper camera, better optics

      Reply

    • Dmitry Kostin
      22.07.2022

      “Nikon D3 with 2.5k shots”
      Wow. Are you sure that you were told the truth about her run?
      It is almost impossible to find D10, D3s, D3, D4s with a range of up to 4 thousand frames.
      The seller can be cunning by saying that such a mileage after replacing the shutter and mirror unit.
      If you need a camera with which you want to start, take the Z5 or Z6, this is more promising.
      Another option is D750 or D780, but this is a dead end, because. There will be no more new models of DSLRs from Nikon, and the DSLRs and lenses currently being produced for them will be smoothly removed from production in a year or two:
      https://www.gsmarena.com/nikon_will_reportedly_stop_making_dslrs_to_focus_on_mirrorless_cameras-news-55029.php

      Reply

    • B. R. P.
      22.07.2022

      It is better to buy something new with a kit lens on your budget than a used one with suspicious mileage. You run the risk of being left without a camera, without a budget, but with a couple of lenses.

      Reply

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