Review of Nikon ED AF Nikkor 80-200mm 1: 2.8D (MKII)

For the opportunity Nikon ED AF Nikkor 80-200mm 1: 2.8D (MKII) lens review Many thanks to Vadim Jadan.

Review of Nikon ED AF Nikkor 80-200mm 1: 2.8D (MKII, piston, trombone)

Review of Nikon ED AF Nikkor 80-200mm 1: 2.8D (MKII, piston, trombone)

Nikon ED AF Nikkor 80-200mm 1: 2.8D (MKII) is an old school professional high-aperture telephoto zoom lens.

Nikon Nikkor Professional Telephoto Lenses

Nikon Nikkor Professional Telephoto Lenses

Since the release of the first professional-focus autofocus lens of the 80-200 / 2.8 class, much water has flowed. During this time, the 70 (80) -200 / 2.8 line developed, resulting in many versions.

A complete and accurate list of all Nikkon Nikkor class 70 (80) -200 / 2.8 autofocus professional lenses:

  1. Nikon ED AF Nikkor 80-200mm 1: 2.8 (MKI) - November 1987 to September 1992, 16 elements in 11 groups (with 3 ED elements)
  2. Nikon ED AF Nikkor 80-200mm 1: 2.8D (MKII) - from September 1992 to 1997, 16 elements in 11 groups (with 3 ED elements)
  3. Nikon ED AF Nikkor 80-200mm 1: 2.8D (MKIII) - January 1997 to present, 16 elements in 11 groups (with 3 ED elements)
  4. Nikon ED AF-S Nikkor 80-200mm 1: 2.8D Silent Wave Motor (MKIV, AF-S) - from December 1998 to 2003, 18 elements in 14 groups (with 5 ED elements). There are two colors: black and gray.
  5. Nikon ED AF-S VR-Nikkor 70-200mm 1: 2.8G Vibration Reduction SWM IF (MKV, VRI) from February 2003 to January 2009, 21 elements in 15 groups (with 5 ED elements). There are two colors: black and gray.
  6. Nikon AF-S Nikkor 70-200mm 1: 2.8GII ED N VR Nano Crystal Coat SWM IF (MKVI, VRII) - July 2009 to present, 21 elements in 16 groups (with 7 ED elements).
  7. Nikon AF-S Nikkor 70-200mm 1: 2.8E FL ED N VR Nano Crystal Coat (MKVII, E) - from October 2016 to the present, 22 elements in 18 groups (6 ED, 1 FL, 1 HRI element). There is a rare subversion Nikon AF-S Nikkor 70-200mm 1: 2.8E FL ED N VR Nano Crystal Coat Nikon 100th Anniversary (100th Anniversary) - April 2017 to present, features a metallic gray finish with the Nikon 100th Anniversary logo).
  8. Nikon Nikkor Z 70-200mm 1: 2.8 VR S (MK VIII, Z, S-series) - from January 2020 to the present day. Nikon Z mirrorless version, 21 elements in 18 groups (6 ED, 2 ASP, 1 FL, 1 SR)

Some are adding new ones to this list. Nikon N AF-S Nikkor 70-200mm 1: 4G ED SWM VR IF Nano Crystal Coat.

ID Nikon ED AF Nikkor 80-200mm 1: 2.8D (MKII) on a modern camera

ID Nikon ED AF Nikkor 80-200mm 1: 2.8D (MKII)

The version presented in this review is the second in a row, it is often called the 'version MKII'so that you can quickly distinguish what is being said. All three first versions MKI, MKII, MKIII have the same optical design. Roughly speaking, all three versions can give a picture indistinguishable from each other (but, in fact, the first version is much worse than the others). Of course, each subsequent version was finalized and received new opportunities. Nikon ED AF version Nikkor 80-200mm 1: 2.8D (MKII), from this review, was able to transmit the focusing distance to the camera, which allows using 3D Matrix Metering matrix metering with a number of cameras, also D version simplifies flash operation. Of course, each subsequent version improved optically.

Nikon ED AF Nikkor 80-200mm 1: 2.8D (MKII)

Nikon ED AF Nikkor 80-200mm 1: 2.8D (MKII)

Nikon ED AF Nikkor 80-200mm 1: 2.8D can be used on old film cameras as a lens AI-S type, and on autofocus film cameras, on full-frame cameras and on Nikon cropped cameras. On APS-C format cameras (Nikon DXA) EGF lens will match 120-300 mm... Nikon ED AF Nikkor 80-200mm 1: 2.8D has an unusually strong construction, you can immediately feel a well-made thing in your hands.

Nikon ED AF Nikkor 80-200mm 1: 2.8D (MKII)

Rear View Nikon ED AF Nikkor 80-200mm 1: 2.8D (MKII)

Auto focus on the lens slow. Focus speed can be increased by using focus stopmounted on the lens. The limiter can switch the lens to one of the modes Full / limit... In the 'Full' mode the lens can focus from 1.4 m to infinity, and in the 'Limit' mode only from 1.8 m. The focusing of the lens is not internal, but due to the successful lens design, the trunk does not lengthen when focusing. If you use the usual protective filter, you may not notice the movement of the front lenses. Also, when zooming, the lens does not change its physical size, which is very convenient - the lens internal zoom. The lens has a Nikon focus system CRC (close range correction - correction at close focusing distances). Also, the lens has a 'M-A' focus mode switching ring, the ring has a special lock-button, to switch the lens to manual focusing, just use the switch on the lens.

Nikon ED AF Nikkor 80-200mm 1: 2.8D (MKII)

Nikon ED AF Nikkor 80-200mm 1: 2.8D (MKII)

Important: lens zoom ring and manual focus ring are aligned, which is why the lens is often called 'single ring'. The focus ring rotates approximately 45 degrees in manual focus mode. The focusing ring is simply huge, it is very convenient to focus on the focus. The lens has a focusing distance scale, but does not have a DOF scale. In auto focus mode, the focus ring rotates freely and does not affect the focusing process.

Nikon ED AF Nikkor 80-200mm 1: 2.8D (MKII) with hood on the ZK

Nikon ED AF Nikkor 80-200mm 1: 2.8D (MKII) with hood on the ZK

Important: the lens uses an unusual method of changing the focal length, the so-called piston method (also called 'push pull'). To change the focal length, you just need to pull the 'piston' towards you or away from you. Moreover, the maximum focal length is available when the piston is in the closest position to the camera, and the minimum when the piston is as far from the camera as possible. This 'backwards' method takes some getting used to. When transporting the lens, the piston can spontaneously change the focal length under its own weight. It is very pleasant that when changing the focal length, as well as when focusing, the back lens remains motionless.

Nikon ED AF Nikkor 80-200mm 1: 2.8D (MKII)

Nikon ED AF Nikkor 80-200mm 1: 2.8D (MKII)

It's important: auto focus with this lens is available only when using him on cameras with built-in motor focusing.

Exact list Nikon DSLR cameras with a built-in focus motor, on which this lens will focus automatically:

Exact list Nikon DSLR cameras without a built-in focus motor, on which this lens will not focus automatically:

Only auto focus and sound confirmation of focus will not work with these cameras, all other important functions, such as automatic exposure metering and automatic iris control, will work well.

You will find a lot of useful information on the types of cameras and lenses Nikon here.

Enlightenment Nikon ED AF Nikkor 80-200mm 1: 2.8D (MKII)

Enlightenment Nikon ED AF Nikkor 80-200mm 1: 2.8D (MKII)

Important: the lens has an aperture control ring. In order for the lens to start working normally on modern CZKs, you need to set the f / 22 value on the lens and snap a special switch near the aperture control ring. After such a manipulation, the aperture can be controlled from the camera, in more detail in the section on Non-G type lens.

Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 55-200mm 1: 4-5.6G ED VR IF and Nikon ED AF Nikkor 80-200mm 1: 2.8D (MKII)

Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 55-200mm 1: 4-5.6G ED VR IF and Nikon ED AF Nikkor 80-200mm 1: 2.8D (MKII)

The lens has a maximum aperture of F / 2.8, which is available over the entire range of focal lengths. Given the large focal length of the lens, you need to remember about the effect of the grease at slow shutter speeds. More details in the section on how take off.

Nikon ED AF Nikkor 80-200mm 1: 2.8D (MK2) with mounted hood for transportation

Nikon ED AF Nikkor 80-200mm 1: 2.8D (MK2) with mounted hood for transportation

Image quality

On Nikon DX cameras, the lens is sharp already at F / 2.8 over the entire range of focal lengths, except 200 mm. At 200mm it is advisable to cover the diaphragm. The lens gives excellent contrast, has a slight distortion. Aberrations are present, but very slight. It’s also funny that the 200mm lens tightens the background a lot, it seems that the pictures are similar to Soviet helioswho love the background twist very much. When shooting at F / 4, the lens becomes very sharp :).

On the open aperture Nikon ED AF Nikkor 80-200mm 1: 2.8D (MKII) very noticeably twists the background

On the open aperture Nikon ED AF Nikkor 80-200mm 1: 2.8D (MKII) very noticeably twists the background

In general, the image quality is excellent. The bokeh deserves special attention, which is quite good at open apertures. It's a pity, but in spite of the 9-blade diaphragm, you can see the 'nuts' on the covered diaphragms in the blur zone. Image quality can be improved by using a lens hood such as the native HB-7.

You can find more examples of photos on this lens in the reviews. Fujifilm FinePix S2 Pro и Nikon D300s.

Comments on this post do not require registration. Anyone can leave a comment. For the selection of a variety of photographic equipment, I recommend E-Catalog, Socket и AliExpress.


Personal experience

Now you will not meet modern lenses with a piston design, and this is quite convenient, since the focus ring is immediately a zoom ring. The lens lacks an image stabilizer, at 200mm the picture twitches strongly in the viewfinder, and excerpt when shooting should be at least 1 \ 200s. I shot on a cloudy day, and at ISO 200, the f / 2.8 aperture barely made it possible to shoot at 1 \ 200s, so I want to note that f / 2.8 is not a panacea. If you need a real aperture, then fast fixes can come to the rescue. In principle, a single 80mm high-aperture prime can handle the tasks of the heavy Nikon ED AF Nikkor 200-1mm 2.8: 135D (MKII). 135mm is just the middle between 80-200mm, (200 + 80) \\ 2 = 140.

Crop 1 to 1, no treatment

Crop 1 to 1, without processing, only added shooting parameters (one of the readers asked the moon)

Newer model Nikon ED AF Nikkor 80-200mm 1: 2.8D (MKIII) has exactly the same optical design as the MKII and MKI, so you don't have to be afraid and save money using the MKII or MKI, although the MKIII has a faster focusing system and a tripod socket, and not everyone will be comfortable using the 'trombone'. The lens of the 80-200 \ 2.8 class most often acts as a good portrait lens, professional wedding photographers are very fond of this range, and the high-aperture zoom 80-200 itself is included in the top three of the classic set 14 (16) -24 (28), 24 (28) -70 ( 80), 70 (80) -200. A good alternative to the lenses of the 80-200 \ 2.8 series can serve as an old high-quality Nikon 70-210mm f / 4 AF. Also, for inexpensive, you can find old versions of similar lenses from third-party manufacturers: Sigma 70-200mm 1: 2.8 APO EX HSM, Tokina AT-X AF SD 80-200mm 1: 2.8, Tamron SP AF LD 70-210mm 1: 2.8 67DN, Tokina AT-X PRO 80-200mm 1: 2.8 , Sigma AF Zoom APO 70-210mm 1: 2.8 etc.

Key Features of Nikon ED AF Nikkor 80-200mm 1: 2.8D (MK2)

Key Features of Nikon ED AF Nikkor 80-200mm 1: 2.8D (MK2)

conclusions

Nikon ED AF Nikkor 80-200mm 1: 2.8D (MKII) - legendary lenswhich after many years can please with its excellent picture. I recommend for full-frame cameras.

Material prepared Arkady Shapoval... Look for me on Youtube | Facebook | VK | Instagram | Twitter.

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Comments: 266, on the subject: Review of Nikon ED AF Nikkor 80-200mm 1: 2.8D (MKII)

  • Denis

    It is written that slow autofocus. If you compare with Nikon AF-with 50mm 1,4, then what does it feel faster?

    • Arkady Shapoval

      Fifty is a little faster. But the 80-200 still depends a little on the camera used and the focus distance limiter.

  • Basil

    But interestingly, can someone tell me, can I put a tripod ring on it?

    • Michael

      There is no regular staff;

  • UstasFritZZZ

    Can you please tell me if it is worth taking it for a crop (D7200)? Appointment - portraits, flowers, cats

    • Dmitriy

      As an inexpensive option for sports, yes. For a portrait, it will be much better for the same money or even cheaper as used nikkor 50 1.4g. I have both of these lenses. IMHO 80-200 2.8 is good again as an inexpensive option if you need a long focus and short shutter speed. Also good for a 17-50 2.8 crop (eg sigma). Not so artistic, but nevertheless, portraits can be taken, and for landscapes and streets, it's generally super.

    • Dmitriy

      And one more thing: the subject lens will definitely not resolve your matrix.

    • Pokemon

      For the D7200, it is big and heavy. And as correctly written below, 24MP on the crop will not master, most likely.

  • Eugene

    Good afternoon everyone. Now it is possible to take this lens, but the first version. Of the jambs, from time to time, autofocus stops working (after re-installing the lens, everything is ok) - as I understood they all have a sore with autofocus.
    More interested in the question of the image quality at the maximum end, are there any differences in quality among the versions?
    The price for this mk1 is $ 190. want.
    while I will use on d5300 but I plan to leave on ff

    Really waiting for your answers :)

    • B. R. P.

      You probably know - there won't be AF on the D5300.

      • Eugene

        Yes, thanks, we know. But the main thing is the availability of metering)
        In the future there are plans to switch to the d750.
        What say for image quality? Should I take the 1st version?
        Or you can take for 35u.e Telear n (200 3,5).
        Of particular interest is a segment of about 200mm

    • Artem

      So, I recently watched such a lens and also, after installation on a carcass, autofocus did not work. After shamanistic actions with reinstalling the lens and switching the full limit, everything worked. But the sediment remained. And it’s scary to buy such a lens.

      • Pokemon

        Must check on your camera at the time of purchase.
        Buying things without trying them on is a risk. Moreover, this applies to photographic equipment.

  • Gregory

    Good time!
    Arkady is the deepest respect for a gigantic and very useful work.
    Question to the owners of Nikon d600. How much does the subject resolve its matrix?

    • Peter Sh.

      What do you mean by matrix resolution?

    • Jury

      how many people, so many opinions can be on this issue, I used this lens on the D800 for portraits, it has the ability to work on different focal lengths, which are described in the article and in the comments. For portraits, it is suitable with an open one, has its own drawing. And if you buy it for shooting brick walls, you will see that the edges of the frame are soap, and, even with closed apertures, there is anyone who needs it. Judging by the comments to this review, we come across frankly “weird” specimens that can spoil the impression of the lens.

    • Anton

      Quite copes

  • Denis

    Good day! Can you tell me what this hole is?
    https://ibb.co/RDvYq4N

    • Dmitriy

      On my copy in that hole you can see the cap of a bolt for a straight screwdriver.

    • Novel

      There is a pin (from the factory painted over with paint) for a slotted screwdriver, it fixes the front “nut” (such a narrow border around the front lens) that keeps the helicoid from twisting.

  • anonym

    Good hour! Tell me, will it work as an 80-200 2.8D (MKII) lens with the Nikon AF-S TC-20E teleconverter || 2 (Made in Japan)?

    • Dmitriy

      Most likely no. MK2 is an AF-D type lens. The specified teleconverter only works with AF-S or AF-I lenses. I read it here: https://kenrockwell.com/nikon/tc20e.htm
      “… For instance, the 70-300mm AF-S VR, 80-200mm f / 2.8 AF-D and 80-400mm VR lenses can't even be mounted to this converter. Nikon designed them this way ... ”

  • Eugene

    Tell me please. I am faced with the choice of this lens (MK2) and Tamron 70-200mm F / 2.8 SP AF Di LD IF Macro
    carcass d610
    That suggest?

    • Eugene

      He took mk1. He was holding MK1 (after a fall / repair) and MK2 in perfect shape.
      Photographed on d610 on one and the other - no difference at the long end by 2,8)
      But MK4 pulls decently in sharpness.
      mk1 mk2 mk3 all soft at 200 f 2,8

  • Ksenia

    Hello! Will this lens fit the Nikon D5300?

    • Pokemon

      You have a budget camera without a “screwdriver” motor in the camera.
      In your case, autofocus will not work, since the lens is motorless.
      Only the 4th version of 80-200 / 2.8D has a motor and only it is worth looking at your camera.
      Another point for the 4th version of Mk IV) is asked about twice as expensive and there is a not very reliable motor there.

    • Pokemon

      If you need a lens of this class there are 70-200 / 2.8 from Sigma and Tamron with motors.

  • Ike

    Please tell me ... I have this lens but with back focus. found tamron 70-200 2.8 g1. Which one is better in terms of picture quality?

    • Alexey

      Tamron is better. And in terms of sharpness, and autofocus speed, and accuracy. Its only drawback is the price.

    • Alexey

      Yes, and another + he has a stub.

      • Ike

        Thank you, Alexei, to be honest, I found for $ 320 an almost new one, is it worth taking?

        • koba

          this is one of the best lenses in general ... for 320 it is a gift, I am looking for it myself and even in China for such a price have never seen it. Take it without hesitation - it has a better picture than this Nikon, autofocus is very fast, the stabilizer is very effective, there are as many as 21 lenses in it, but somehow the micro-contrast is high ... In a word, the lens is of a very high class.

  • Sergei

    Good day. After reading a lot of admiring reviews for this lens, I still decided to buy it. Bought at auction in Japan in excellent condition: visually like new, glass without mold, dust, scratches. UV filter even went.
    Yesterday I took and installed Nikon D7000 on my camera. Today I took my wife and took some pictures by the sea. To say that I was upset is to say nothing. almost 90% of the photo is out of focus. Obviously, the lens focuses almost half a meter behind the subject. I mainly used F2.8 aperture (otherwise why would I have taken such a lens then). When trying to figure it out in more detail, I found out that with a focal length of 80mm at open apertures, there is a monstrous back focus, which cannot be corrected by the maximum allowable AF adjustment (-20) in the camera. with increasing focal length, the situation is corrected, but not completely. photographing through LView, of course, corrects the situation. Please tell me if this behavior of glass on my camera is acceptable? About the fact that the lens is from film cameras - I know that they have a problem with back focus at 200mm - I know. And maybe someone will give practical instructions and advice on photography with this lens. I would be very grateful, as I am in frustrated feelings ... Thanks in advance.

    • Dmitriy

      Incorrectly fine-tuning the AF in the camera, bof / front focus, of course, is not normal. On my D7000 and D750 this lens, even with the fine-tuning dropped, gives an acceptable hit in focus at all focal lengths. Yes, of course, there is a difference in the shift of the focusing distance with phase AF at the short and long ends, but it can probably be significant only for perfectionists. Check the lens on another camera, if the AF behavior is similarly unacceptable, then the problem is probably in the lens. In my D7000, I slightly adjusted the focusing plane (the one that is adjusted with 3 screws). After that, I had no questions about focusing on all my lenses (Sigma 17-50 f / 2.8, Nikkor 50 1.4g, Nikkor 55-200 vr g2). But first, decide where the problem is: in the phase-detection AF module of the camera or in the lens. It is advisable to test the AF cameras on other also light lenses, ideally on fixes 1.8-1.4 with focal lengths starting from 50mm, it will be immediately noticeable there. My D7000 focuses accurately even at 50mm at f / 1.4 aperture. And not even at the central points.

      • Sergei

        Thanks for the answer. A colleague has a d7100. I'll try to check it again. In addition to this lens, there is still an old 18-70. There, too, I had to adjust the back focus in the camera. But there was a small flight. I think there is a reason to try to turn the screws a little. Once both lenses hit by.

        • Denis

          several 18-70, that I saw, had back focus. Before knocking down the camera, check on 18-55 (it does not smear) or fixes like 50mm 1.8G

    • Jury

      from what you can do at home: 1. Find in the internet service software for the D7000 and shift the focus adjustment in the camera more, but this can interfere with working with other lenses and can correct the error by 80mm, but add front focus to larger focal lengths. You can sell the lens or try to contact the service.

      • Sergei

        Found the software. But he doesn't want to start in any way, cursing at the wrong OS version (I have Win 10). I'll try to run it on XP through a virtual machine. Maybe that will come out. I saw a lot of people on the net correcting the back focus on their 7000 carcasses using software. If it does not work out, as Dmitry wrote, you will have to twist the screws ... There is no desire to sell glass, of course. I liked those photos that got into focus.

        • Jury

          I worked with software for another camera, launched on win7x64, maybe the oldest firmware on the camera will still be needed (also look in the internet). In my case, the software did not connect to the camera, I had to alter it with the very first firmware, work with the software and again alter the camera with modern firmware.

  • Deynart

    If anyone is interested, at the moment I am selling such a lens. I bought it thanks to the review of Arkady, I showed myself very well, but after a year I have to leave, (I need money for other non-photo needs)

  • Daniel

    From personal experience I’ll say that the lens is gorgeous (for my money, of course), especially as the first such telephoto.
    I really liked the piston system, it’s a shame that they don’t use it now.
    Regarding F2.8: (filmed on d7100)
    2.8 lathers, there is nothing to hide, but how much does it interfere? - Very situational. Sometimes you don't need to close when shooting people, when there is no goal to get “eye-catching” sharpness, when shooting an event where the subjects of shooting do not have a requirement for an ideal frame.
    But if you want sharpness, then you have to cover, for example, when shooting animals, birds, or studio and / or individual shooting of a model, from F4, the sharpness is already very pleasant, at F8 for a squirrel that fell into the entire sharpness band at 200mm, you can make out almost all the hairs

  • Oleksandr

    Nikon 80-200 2.8 mark 2. Not always in focus. Is the lens defective or is this the specificity of the screwdriver technique?

    • Victor

      From the experience of using screwdriver optics (other models in general), I can say that if they, in principle, fall into focus, then this happens no less stable than on motor lenses.
      So, most likely, either a feature of this model, or a malfunction of a particular instance.

    • Dmitry Kostin

      "Or is this the specificity of the screwdriver technique?"
      The specificity of the screwdriver technique is that it gets into focus much more often than motor lenses, which can have back / front focus.
      Even the cuddly budget lenses of the 90s of the last century almost always focus precisely on full-frame Nikons. On crops, on non-native lenses, there can be problems.
      Write what kind of camera you have.
      The lens (trombone) may be missing, but there may be a problem with the camera.
      As far as I remember, some of the models of budget Nikon FF cameras (d600-610-750) had problems with Nikon 80-200 / 2.8. Like with d750.

      • Aleksey68

        You will laugh loudly, like I did when I saw this for the first time, but on my D50 (I have a lot of different cameras), it is the 80-200 2.8D that hits 10 out of 10.
        what, truly I say! :)

        • Dmitry Kostin

          Front / Back on a screwdriver, I met with 35 / 2D and 50 / 1.4D on the open and there and there, but this was well, a couple of times, probably in poor lighting.
          That's who was more often mistaken - Fuji Protroyka. But this is her reaction to the GP 2700mAh. The camera doesn't like them. Everything works much better with the Panasonic Eneloop Pro 2500mAh :)

          • Aleksey68

            on D2Xs there was a problem with fifty dollars, and with some too, sometimes. I soldered the cable, connected it to my computer, launched the software and calmly adjusted the focus in the camera according to the test charts. the camera began to hit exactly any optics.

            • Oleksandr

              What software?

              • Ivan

                Service.

          • Aleksey68

            Well, with batteries, everything is simple - you need a small internal resistance, otherwise there will be a large voltage drop during operation.

      • Oleksandr

        I have a nikon d610. The camera is new.

        • Aleksey68

          and on what FR the focus is not accurate?
          in general, this is an amateur camera, it has a mediocre AF in principle.

          • Oleksandr

            All the magicians. I can throw off a test photo.

            • Jury

              these lenses have a “feature” - they blur focus at 200mm focal lengths and short focusing distances. If it smears on all focal lengths, try using fine focus adjustment in the camera.

              • Aleksey68

                depending on which camera. on D50 - for sure, on D300s - almost exactly, on D3s - yes, it's better not to shoot at 200, limit it to about 175-180. but this is not always the case. sometimes 200 for sure. also depends on the subject and light.

          • Oleksandr

            Try a photo https://ru.files.fm/u/t7xxnvmc7

            • Ivan

              Roman, your favorite trumpet barracks are already in the studio.

              • Oleksandr

                What do you think about the examples of the photo?

              • Ivan

                Are you talking about focusing errors? I can not say anything. I don't look at magnifying glass photos for out-of-focus pixels, chromatic aberrations, and other distortions. I am more interested in the photographs themselves and the subjects. I know many examples when the best and most interesting shots were shot with faulty photographic equipment.

            • Victor

              What can you say? The lens certainly smears when it is not too noticeable, when too much.
              Another question is whether you will put up with this, like Ivan, or whether you will decide the issue (by adjusting the camera / lens link, if possible, or radically, by replacing it with another copy) - only you can decide here.
              In my opinion, such a work of technology (of a similar level) is unacceptable.

              • Oleksandr

                I called the service, they said the old thing could not be adjusted from the film.

            • Aleksey68

              1. server with test photos is not available for me.
              2.With any other screwdriver lens, is the focus accurate?
              3. Is 80-200 wrong focusing on different RFs in the same direction or not?
              4. 80-200, like any screwdriver lens, is not programmatically adjustable in focus, but it can be mechanically adjusted. for this, spacer rings are used between the mount and the body and the position of the front lens is changed. all this is described in the service manual and any normal service center is able to do it.

              • Oleksandr

                I went in. Service is available.

              • Oleksandr

                Sorry. Server.

              • Oleksandr

                There is no way to test another lens of the screwdriver. The camera is new.

              • Oleksandr

                There is an error on different focal points.

              • Oleksandr

                There is an error on different focal points. The main focus flies forward. I checked the front on the back - it gets to the center normally.

              • Oleksandr

                The main focus flies forward. I checked the front on the back - it gets to the center normally.

    • Aleksey68

      there are no problems with this glass on a working camera. at all. the best glass from the past. kenon has the same.

  • Aleksey68

    2Oleksandr
    understood nothing.
    if the focus was accurate when checking, then under what conditions does the error occur? you can write clearly what and how you did it, what happened, step by step. so far there is a suspicion that you are somehow focusing incorrectly. (I hope that the AF adjustment in the camera is reset to zero?) and checking the camera with a different lens is a must.

    • Oleksandr

      The camera after the reset, the focus adjustment has not yet been touched. on different focal lengths of focus, out of 10 photos only 2 are in focus. I use center-point focusing. On the back front, he checked the focus bet on the target.

      • Aleksey68

        still don't understand. if checking for front and back focus showed that focus is accurate, then under what conditions is it NOT accurate? I said, write EXPRESSLY - how the check was carried out, and how the shooting is done later. what we shoot, under what light, and so on. it is impossible to give advice in the absence of intelligible data.

        • Oleksandr

          Shot a portrait, landscape. In the afternoon, in the evening. In sunny weather. For example, I focus on the eye, but the focus fell on the ear, or even far behind the head.

          • Aleksey68

            So. something is clearing up. shooting in bright light. from hands. on any FR, a slip in one direction?
            and then how were the tests conducted? do I need to torture you? Why is it impossible to paint everything clearly, as in the army?

        • Oleksandr

          There is a link in the photo. You can go to see the shooting parameters.

          • Aleksey68

            once again - this server is not available for me.

            • Oleksandr

              And through another browser?

            • Oleksandr

              If it is also not available, then later I will drop it on another site

            • Oleksandr

              I took a photo, almost everything is out of focus.
              https://i.postimg.cc/NFn6j4BR/DSC-0254.jpg

            • Oleksandr

              https://postimg.cc/SYW2ZcXK

            • Oleksandr

              https://postimg.cc/xqRbb3Ss

            • Oleksandr

              https://postimg.cc/K3ZkHRtr

            • Oleksandr

              https://postimg.cc/ygh3jF38

            • Oleksandr

              https://postimg.cc/Sn59xQpk

            • Oleksandr

              https://postimg.cc/MX8yBGfG

            • Oleksandr

              https://postimg.cc/BXnP5PSJ

            • Oleksandr

              Focused on the center point. I tried to hit the eye with a dot.

              • Jury

                back focus was visible in the photos posted earlier. Looked at some of the new photos, I think there is a problem in the lens itself. At 80mm and 1/160 there will be no blur, and at f / 5 the lens should be very sharp (except at the very edge of the image). And on examples - soap. Is there any “left” filter screwed onto the lens? If the photo is a camera burner, try setting the sharpness to maximum in the PC or upload raw files.

              • Oleksandr

                Photo jpeg. Yes, there is a filter.

              • Victor

                Back focus in all images, somewhere obvious, somewhere not very, but at all.

                A serviceable filter that has not been erased to zero, even a cheap one, obviously cannot spoil the sharpness.

                Try in-camera trim.

              • Oleksandr

                I'll try through the LP. There are suspicions that the autofocus can be smeared through the protective filter. I see the thread on the lens under the filter is damaged and the filter was a little crooked.

              • Victor

                Try it, but it probably won't work.

              • Oleksandr

                Tell me pliz. Focusing at 9,21,39 points does not work. Center point only and auto mode. Maybe you need to enable something in the settings?
                Af-s, af-c put 9 points. 21 points, 39 points. And focusing occurs only on the central point and that's it.

              • Victor

                Probably worth activating the automatic focus point selection, isn't it?

                https://radojuva.com/2012/05/nikon-autofocus/

                But why do you need this for unhurried portraits?

              • Oleksandr

                This is how the auto focusing mode works and on the center point.

              • Oleksandr

                9,21,39 does not work

              • Oleksandr

                I wrote to Visha. Works on the center point and auto focus.

              • Oleksandr

                Auto point selection.

              • Oleksandr

                I do not understand. What's wrong with nikon 80-200 2.8. removed the filter and removes also badly. On f4 I have to hit sharp, but mine is nice. I adjusted the focus in plus and minus, the focus smears.

              • Jury

                the filter thread may be damaged as a result of an impact. If so, then the lens is expensive to service.

              • Oleksandr

                This is how the owner who beat him twisted it crookedly.

              • Oleksandr

                I removed the protective filter, made a focus correction at -11 and nikon 80-200 2.8 began to get whiteness into focus.

              • Victor

                Of course, I began to get it, because (initially I noticed it) there was a back focus, and it's not about the filter.

              • Oleksandr

                And what could be the back focus? Worn out mechanism? There are no burn marks.

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