For the ability to review this camera Nikon D7100 body gratitude to the network of stores "Paparazzi", where you can purchase this camera and other photo equipment - http://www.fotomagazinpaparazzi.ua
Nikon D7100 body review
Nikon D7100 is a very interesting camera, it is a fresh breath of air among cameras Nikon DX Series. An absolutely new one with a standard lens came to me to review the Nikon D7100 Nikon 18-105mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED Nikkor VR AF-S SWM DX IF Aspherical. This review provides information on the camera itself. Nikon D7100 body.
Nikon D7100 rear view
Matrix Nikon D7100
Nikon D7100 uses a 24.7MP sensor, only 24MP is effective, which allows you to take pictures of 6000 * 4000 pixels. Sometimes they indicate a size of 24.1MP, but these different numbers 24.7, 24.0, 24.1 do not matter, anyway, the picture is created using 24.000.000 pixels, so I will talk strictly about 24MP. Most likely, the Nikon D7100 uses the same matrix as the Nikon D5200 и D7200. A complete list of all used sensors (matrices) on the Nikon central control center can be viewed here. True, due to the different matrix body kit and different processing of the output signal, in the end we can get a different image. Now megapixels you won’t surprise anyone, and they are not always so useful, I advise you to look into my section Battle of Megapixels.
The main feature is not 24MP matrix, but lack of an optical low-pass filter in front of the matrix (OLPF - optical low-pass filter, LPF - low-pass filter). Speaking very roughly, the absence of an OLPF filter will help to squeeze the maximum sharpness out of the lens and get the maximum details in the photo. I wonder why the camera was not called Nikon 'D7100E' after Nikon D800E.
The camera can use ISO 100-6400 and expand its value to ISO 25.600 (ISO HI2). There is no great benefit from ISO Hi1, HI2, it is also strange that the Nikon D7100 does not use ISO 50 (Lo 1) how to do it Nikon D600, D610, D800, D800E, D4, D4s an extra ISO stop would be nice. Nikon D7100 works very well with ISO auto control function and can independently select the desired shutter speed for each lens. In automatic mode excerpts for the Auto ISO function, 5 steps can be set for fine tuning, from a shorter automatic excerptsup to a longer automatic excerpts. You can also set the range of the automatic ISO, for example from ISO 800 to HI1.
Another hallmark of the Nikon D7100 is dotted white balance in live view. The function is very useful and you need to get used to it. In Live View, just select white balance PRE, hold down the WB button and wait for the yellow rectangle to appear, moving the rectangle, you need to set it to the point at which measurement will be performed white balance. To measure in this selected zone, you need to press the shutter button, while the camera will not take a picture, but only take a measurement BB.
This is how two cameras look like - Nikon D7100, Nikon D5200 with similar matrices
Nikon D7100 Focus System
Nikon D7100 uses an updated focus module Advanced Multi cam 3500DX with 51 focus points, 15 of which are cross-shaped. Rumor has it the Nikon D7100 is small Nikon D4. Do not believe it. Although Nikon D4 and Nikon D7100 use 51 focus points, they have different focus modules. Nikon D7100 uses Advanced Multi cam 3500DX, While Nikon D4 - Advanced Multi cam 3500FX. The difference is that Nikon D4 can focus with F / 8.0 lenses using 11 points, and the Nikon D7100 using only one point. I have written in more detail about the focus modules here... Still, Nikon D7100 has a paper focusing module that looks better than Nikon D300, D300s, D3, D3s, D3x, as it can work with dark F/5.6-F/8.0 lenses with a single center focus point. To put it bluntly, the D7100 should focus better in poor lighting conditions. In fact, I did not notice much difference.
It's very nice that the Nikon D7100 good viewfinder coverage with focus points, same as Nikon D300, D300s. And most importantly, when working in 1.3x mode, coverage with focus points becomes simply wonderful. Even Nikon D2xs cannot boast of such a high-quality coverage of the focus area in its High Speed Crop mode. In fact, the quality of tracking moving objects in focus, the ability to compose a frame, etc., depend on the coverage area with focus points.
Nikon D7100 performs very well in dynamic focus area selection mode. In this case, 9, 21 or 51 focus points can be used. I advise you to play around with these modes. Another important method of autofocus is the 3D tracking function, which is very useful for shooting objects moving in the frame. 3D tracking works in tandem with the metering system exposurethat can recognize the type of scene being shot and improve the performance of the auto focus system.
Nikon D7100 has fine tuning of focus. You can also set the priority of the focus mode for AF-C, AF-S, in more detail about focus adjustment on Nikon cameras you can find here. Of course, the Nikon D7100 has a built-in focus motor that allows you to use a bunch of lenses AF type.
Optional Accessories for Nikon D7100
Crop mode 1.3x
The Nikon D7100 came up with one tricky mode of operation. You can shoot using the entire area of the sensor in the normal DX mode (24 x 16 mm), or you can select the crop mode 1.3 x (18 x 12 mm). In 1.3x mode EGF lenses equals FR multiplied by 2. For example, if you install fifty dollars on the Nikon D7100 Nikon 50 mm f / 1.4G AF-S Nikkorthen EGF becomes equal to 100 mm. This is logical, because 1.5 x 1.3 \u1,95d 2 (approximately 1.3). This mode can save some money for those who like to shoot from afar. In XNUMX mode, you can take pictures 4800 by 3200 pixels (15.3MP)That is enough even for serious post processing. Personally, I liked the mode because of the increase in the coverage area with focus points and the increase in shooting speed up to 7 fps. By the way, this mode also works when shooting video.
1.3x mode the inactive area does not darken in the viewfinderfor example in the camera Nikon D2xs in the high speed crop mode, the inactive area is darkened, this increases the usability of such a cropped mode. To start the 1.3x crop mode, just press the INFO button and select DX <-> 1.3x there.
Two brothers - Nikon D7100, Nikon D7000 with 18-105 VR lenses
Nikon D7100 Speed
The camera can shoot at a speed 6 frames per second, the predecessor had the same speed Nikon D7000. But there was an opportunity expand the shooting speed to 7 frames per second in 1.3x mode.
Attention: 7 frames per second in 1.3x mode is only available when shooting in JPEG or RAW 12 bit, only 14 fps is available in RAW 6 bit mode.
Attention 2: in normal DX mode, 6 frames per second is only available if RAW 14 bit mode is turned off. If you shoot with RAW 14 bit quality, then the maximum speed is only 5 frames per second.
In total, with the best image quality (RAW 14 bit, RAW 14 bit + JPEG), the shooting speed is lower than that of Nikon D7000 with the same settings. Where is the world heading?
In general, this speed will be enough for almost any situation. 7fps is pretty good, but still not 8fps like older models Nikon D300, D300s, D700.
Nikon D7100 with battery pack and 16-85VR lens
Buffer
The buffer at the camera is small. With one memory card, if you turn off all additional functions that improve the quality of pictures, such as
- Active D-lighting
- Auth. distortion management
- Under. noise for lengths. exposure.
- Under. noise for high. ISO
- Auto ISO
That in JPEG mode is placed in the buffer
- 9 shots, JPEG L optimal quality
- 12 shots, JPEG L size priority
- 12 shots, JPEG L optimal quality in 1.3X mode
- 15 shots, JPEG L size priority in 1.3X mode
- about 4-5 JPEG pictures L Optimal quality with all additional functions switched on at maximum at ISO HI2
RAW:
- 6 shots, 14-bit, lossless compression
- 7 shots, 14-bit, conventional compression
- 7 shots, 12-bit, lossless compression
- 8 shots, 12-bit, conventional compression
- 7 shots, 14-bit, lossless compression, 1.3x mode
- 8 shots, 14-bit, normal compression, 1.3x mode
- 8 shots, 12-bit, lossless compression, 1.3x mode
- 10 shots, 12-bit, normal compression, 1.3x mode
- 5 shots, 14-bit, lossless compression, DX RAW + JPEG L quality priority
- about 3-4 snapshots, 14-bit, lossless compression when all additional functions on ISO HI2 are turned on to the maximum
It turns out that the maximum buffer can hold in RAW format only 10 shots, and with the best shooting quality '14 -bit, lossless compression '- the buffer contains total 6 shots. Due to the fact that the pictures are very heavy, the camera after 6 pictures in RAW (NEF) format will not take the next frame until it writes at least one picture to the memory card from the buffer. With my ADATA SDHC 32GB class 10 card, the camera pauses for a long time while shooting. I checked if using two memory cards, this does not save the situation with the camera stopping during serial shooting. In order to maximally prolong burst shooting, you should use the fastest memory cards, or shoot in JPEG.
RAW files with 14-bit color depth, lossless compression in DX mode weighs up to 40MB. Unlike professional cameras, such as Nikon D300s - Nikon D7100 cannot use uncompressed RAW format. For huge, heavy files on the camera, you can find two nests for cards of type SD, SDHC, SDXC UHS-I... You can set up work with cards for:
- Overflow. When the first card is filled, recording is made on the second.
- Reservation - the same picture is recorded on both cards. Very useful for capturing very important events, where you need to ensure that the data is not lost in any way.
- Record RAW on one card, and JPEG files on another. Just a convenient feature.
Nikon D7100 shows off its super performancewhich he gets through the EXPEED 3 image processing system. Roughly speaking, EXPEED 3 is the processor that does all the calculations in the camera. But in fact, this EXPEED 3 cannot squeeze out 6-7 fps at 14-bit color depth. If EXPEED 3 is as good as they write, then I could have worked hard and removed this limitation without spoiling the overall good camera performance.
It's strange for me that Nikon cannot normally solve the speed problem with 14-bit color depth, this problem is still very acute in models Nikon D300 и D300s, forcing them to work at a snail speed of 2.5 frames per second. And then she migrated to Nikon D5300, D5500 и D7200.
Nikon D7100 with 18-105 VR side view. Plugs for different connectors on the camera.
Shooting, metering system, turn-on speed
Can be shot at shutter speeds from 30 seconds to 1 / 8000 withit’s good that the Nikon D7100 has no stripped down excerpts in 1/4000 s, which is set to Nikon D600. The camera shutter must work at least 150,000 cycles - pretty good for an amateur camera. Also, Nikon D7100 uses independent control of the mirror and apertureThis allows a very small shutter lag. The lag is only 0,052 s... Unlike many cameras, the Nikon D7100 may not lower the mirror to capture the frame in Live View - it will simply release the shutter. In other cameras, for example Nikon D90, D700 responsible for controlling the mirror and aperture general mechanism, which operates in a standard cycle and the Live View should always lower the mirror, only after which shooting can be performed.
Measurement exposure based on 2016-pixel RGB sensorsame as cameras D600, D7000, D5200. In more detail about measurement exposure can read here. The camera can easily work with non-chip lenses, for example, with old AI-S lenses or with Soviet lenses. You can configure the soft key to quickly select a lens from the list.
With one battery charge, the camera can easily squeeze over 1000 shots. The number of photos that can be obtained on a single battery charge depends on many factors. By the way, the EN-EL15 battery itself is exactly the same as that of Nikon D800,D800E, D600, D610, D7000.
У D7000 there was a cover for the display :)
Video
In normal mode, you can shoot with a maximum quality of 1920 x 1080; 30p, 25p, 24p or 1280 x 720; 60p, 50p format H.264 / MPEG-4 AVC. It is important that in 1.3x mode you can shoot video with quality 1920 x 1080 60i, 50i... You can choose high or normal video quality. It's also nice that the Nikon D7100 has a built-in stereo microphone. In AF-F focus mode, continuous focus tracking is available when shooting video, tracking focus works just awful, When recomposing an AF-F frame, it often does not respond at all. Recording video on a DSLR camera with auto focus is a very unpleasant task for me, it’s better to use manual focus when shooting a video.
To shoot video, you must set the Live View lever to 'camcorder' mode. Recording is done using the red button next to the shutter button. It is possible to record video via HDMI to an external device without video compression, and work via HDMI with a large TV while Live view is on. There was no HDMI cable in the package, I really wanted to, but could not test this function to the level of its convenience.
In the manual control mode of the camera 'M', shooting video with manual control is available excerpts and ISO. Exposure can be set from 1 \ 30 to 1 \ 8000 seconds. When shooting a video, you can immediately change the ISO value. It is convenient to shoot video in manual mode and the Auto ISO function is on. In P, A, S modes, you can shoot video and make corrections exposure for video using the '+ \ -' button on + -3 ev In other scene modes, correction exposure not available.
Attention: while recording a video do not change aperture value, which will be filmed, therefore, you need to set the aperture value before turning on Live View.
Display, housing
Nikon D7100 has a new display with 1.229.000 points and measuring 3.2 inches (8cm). The number of dots on the display of the Nikon D7100 is even higher than that of the Nikon D4 / D4s, D800 / D800E, D600 / D610. It is also very important that the display itself is made on the basis of an RGBW matrix. Prior to this, the display matrix was manufactured using conventional RGB pixel technology (red green blue - red, green, blue). The new technology allows for better display of information in bright light.
New matrix on the display Nikon D7100
The display of the Nikon D7100 turned out really шикарный. But the display does not have a protective cover, such as Nikon D90, D700, D7000.
That's not all, the new Nikon D7100 uses information display in the optical viewfinder. Now bottom info bar glows white, not green, new organic EL technology has improved the perception of information in bright shooting conditions and reduced the 'brakes' of such a display in cold weather.
Indicators of a new type based on EL are shown in yellow
The case at the camera is half done magnesium alloy. The case has special rubber seals. The most important thing Nikon D7100 has weather and dust protection, it is alleged that camera security is no worse than D800, D300s. The camera is pleasant to the touch, well assembled. The front and rear control dials are rubberized. The camera has a comfortable grip. In severe conditions, I did not test the camera :), but for complete dust and moisture protection, appropriate lenses are needed. I don’t know where to look at the list of dustproof or waterproof Nikon lenses.
Housing Nikon D7100. Yellow seals for weather and dust protection
Weighs a 765g camera with a battery.
Sample Photos
All photos were shot on a Nikon D7100 and lens Nikon 85mm f / 1.8D AF Nikkor. Photos without processing, on-camera JPEG Fine L, VI, only reduced to 3 MP and data imprinted EXIF. Here is the original ISO 6400 image (VI, matrix metering).
Useful Features and Functions
- Active D-lighting, automatic control of chromatic aberration and distortion. True, these functions reduce the number of frames in the series, although the official website says that EXPEED 3 copes with this.
- Optional monochrome display for quick camera use. The display has a green backlight, the backlight is turned on using the camera's power button.
- HDR with different levels, you can set Moderate, Normal, Amplified, Super Amplified and Auto level. The camera takes two pictures in a row and combines them into one.
- For lovers of photo processing and shooting with various interesting filters in the Nikon D7100 installed a whole bunch of them. There are even two effects for shooting video.
- For easy camera setup without extra efforts, there are special automatic modes, such a set: Portrait, Landscape, Child, Sport, Macro, Night portrait, Night landscape, Party, Indoors, Beach, Snow, Sunset, Twilight (almost a saga :)) , Dawn, Pet Portrait, Candlelight, Flower, Autumn Colors, Products. I am often asked if a level camera is suitable for a beginner Nikon D7000, D7100 - I answer that it will do, now you understand that it will be easier for a beginner to shoot with such a huge set of automatic modes.
- Ability to use the booster MB-D15. Can connect the Nikon D7100 from the network using an EH-5b AC adapter with an EP-5B connector.
- I like very much shooting mode locks on the control wheel. Some write that this interferes with quick access to different shooting modes, but in fact this is a very useful function. Very often you can accidentally knock off the shooting mode, for example from 'A' to 'M', which can lead to a bunch of defective photos. I really missed such a blocker on my Nikon D90.
- Outputs for an external microphone, USB, HDMI, 3.5 output for headphones. Another connector for controlling the camera.
- Flash Nikon D7100 can remotely control other external flash units. You can read more in the section Nikon CLS. Nikon D7100 also supports fast synchronization with external flash units, in more detail here. Minimum sync with the built-in flash is 1/320 s.
- The camera can work remotely using the WR-1 module or the WR-R10 + WR-T10 kit, which use radio control. WR-1 allows you to remotely control almost all the functions of the camera. I did not use this device, but it should be something interesting. Also, the Nikon D7100 can use the WU-1a adapter to transfer files and control the camera using devices based on iOS, Android. And you can also use the UT-1 module to transfer data from the camera using WLAN (wi-fi). And finally, you can use the GP-1 / GP-1A to record GPS data for each shot. In short, they made a lot of new trinkets for the camera, now the main thing is to deal with them all.
- The virtual horizon in Live View and in the optical viewfinder. True, you need to try to turn on the virtual horizon in JVI.
- Interval Timer Shooting multiple exposure.
- Of course, the camera has a matrix cleaning system.
- Nikon D7100 has 3 programmable buttons, only the functions that can be hung on them are not very useful in operation.
- In RGB view mode bar charts You can view the histogram for any selected image fragment.
- You can set the center button in image review mode to quickly enlarge the image. This is a very, very useful feature. I advise you to turn it on. This is done using the f1 setting -> View mode -> Zoom on / off. -> desired magnification. The same can be done for fast Live View zoom. In shooting mode, I advise you to set the button to 'Select center. focus points. ' (the third trick is in this article).
- Bracketing exposure, white balance и ADL.
- The camera uses a pentaprism with special enlightenment in the optical viewfinder. Coverage of the field of view is 100%.
- Quiet shooting mode 'Q'. And modes for U1, U2 for convenient customization of the camera.
- The easiest method to remotely control the shutter is to use the remote ML-L3. The camera has two remote control infrared signal receivers, front and rear.
Camera wheel and new 'I' button
Nikon D7100 Personal Impressions
The camera is great, but still I expecting an heir Nikon D300s with its full magnesium body, 8 fps, and a bunch of fine useful little things, as a result received a very good upgrade Nikon D7000. Because Nikon D7100 is still namely an amateur camera. It is very strange that the Nikon D300s are not debited, but they also do not replace it. Users Nikon D300, D300s are forced to either go full frame or go down to level D7100. The same situation is with Canon, where the advanced 7D can not be replaced with a new APS-C camera. Apparently, a serious plot is being prepared against photographers who want to use the highest quality APS-C cameras.
Nikon D7100 is an amateur camera, this indirectly confirms the location of the camera on the official sites
The division into classes is not only a convention, but also a huge number of subtleties, about which it is sometimes very difficult to write, but which with experience become very useful and felt in practice. Therefore, be extremely careful which camera to buy.
In general, the situation with the choice of a good advanced Nikon camera has become more acute. Of the new advanced Nikon cameras, I personally see a dilemma - either Nikon D600 / D610 with its full frame and 39 focus points in the center, or the Nikon D7100 with a cropped matrix, but with an excellent focus system and a bunch of small buns. Personally, I believe that the D7100turned out very pretty, with fewer claims than Nikon D600. And if earlier the issue of switching from D300 / D300s on the Nikon D7000 was controversial, now the D7100 should not disappoint owners D300 / D300s (though disappointing though).
UPD: many do not like the color in Nikon D7100 pictures, especially skinton (skin color in portraits). There is a specificity with color.
To whom there is little information, I advise you to look at the reviews (part in English):
- Classic review from DPreview
- Wikipedia no surprise
- The camera scored 83 points on DXO
- Here comparison on snapsort.com with the D7000 и comparison with D7000 on dxo
- Key features on the official website nikon.ru
- Noise test here и here
- Official Nikon video camera presentation
- Немного about D7100 from Kai Wong
- Lovers of boxes - froknowsphoto
- Photo examples at low ISO from the official site
- Others one reviewer
- И Ken rockwell did not pass Nikon D7100
It looks like a Nikon D7100 with a standard (whale lens) Nikon 18-105mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED Nikkor VR AF-S SWM DX IF Aspherical from the delivery
Prices for modern Nikon cameras in popular stores can look at this link.
Comments on this post do not require registration. Anyone can leave a comment. Many different photographic equipment can be found on AliExpress.
Conclusions:
Nikon D7100 - best advanced amateur DX camera for 2013 (at the time when I write a review about it). Nikon D7100 in 1.3x mode has best viewfinder coverage with focus points, does not have a low pass filter and can accelerate to 7 frames per second. Here's what's new in the Nikon D7100:
- New 3.2-inch display with 1.229.000 dots of the new RGBW type
- Spot metering white balance in real time via live view
- New WR-1 radio remote control, new MB-D15 battery pack
- New UT-1 Wireless Fast Data Device
- The new Advanced Multi-CAM 3500DX focus sensor is the first Nikon DX camera to focus with 'dark' lenses up to and including F / 8.0.
- New mechanism for separate mirror and aperture control
- The new 1.3X framing mode, which also works in video mode (before that, among DX cameras, something similar was only in Nikon D2x, D2xs)
- New i-button control (in addition to the Info button)
- The first DX camera without a low pass filter
- New organic EL display for the optical viewfinder (instead of Transmissive LCD)
In general, it turned out to be a good camera. If there is money, then as an advanced amateur Nikon DX camera recommend Namely Nikon D7100, perhaps in the choice will help here is such an article.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram
Arkady help with the choice I want to buy a Nikon D7100 or Sony A7 the difference in price is $ 200 in favor of Sony from the old device there were Nikon 35mm 1.8 and 50mm 1.4 glasses or can they also be screwed to Sony? If so, what kind of adapter do you need for Nikon? and you would have chosen in advance thanks
Great glass! Why screw them somewhere? Of course Nikon!
Thanks for the answer
How much better is this unit with high ISO compared to the Nikon D3100? Thank you in advance.
Better than the d5100 I can say this.
I looked at the site comparison and something D7100 does not impress me at all
http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/studio-compare?utm_campaign=internal-link&utm_source=mainmenu&utm_medium=text&ref=mainmenu#baseDir=%2Freviews_data&cameraDataSubdir=boxshot&indexFileName=boxshotindex.xml&presetsFileName=boxshotpresets.xml&showDescriptions=false&headerTitle=Studio%20scene&headerSubTitle=Standard%20studio%20scene%20comparison&masterCamera=nikon_d3100&masterSample=dsc_0018.acr&slotsCount=4&slot0Camera=nikon_d3100&slot0Sample=dsc_0018.acr&slot0DisableCameraSelection=true&slot0DisableSampleSelection=true&slot0LinkWithMaster=true&slot1Camera=nikon_d7100&slot1Sample=dsc_0176.acr&x=1.0201387841303364&y=-0.8583825515531456&extraCameraCount=0
Yes, this is the default skinton. Just move the levels a little. That's better?
Better, but not by much. I would like more agility from such an apparatus.
The d7100 has a screwdriver and a partially magnesium case. This is significant.
So I think to myself; - fuel consumption of a “penny” and a brand new BMW is about the same. And when there is no difference, why do people overpay? Maybe get off the Zhigulenka and try to ride the stove?
I apologize for the deviation from the topic, but only leisurely personal use of one model and another can be "impressed" (preferably in the same shooting conditions). To study the effect of the settings of the device, the usability, its capabilities, and then talk about the impressions. Good luck!
I'm going to buy Nikon 7100 in Poland. Who knows. will it be possible to rearrange the language into Russian in the menu? Thanks.
buy d7200
it has an expeed4 video processor
All Nikonov collected for Europe have Russian (and even Ukrainian) in the menu, but the first time they turn on the camera, the menu is in Japanese.
Rearranged elementary.
Tell me, please, which cameras other than the D300 (not FF) can record RAW without compression? It turns out that all new cameras, both amateur and advanced, necessarily compress RAW.
I'd love a review on the d7200. Paparazzi store can not provide one more time?
Well, if it is possible to d5500 (your opinion is especially interesting, why is there no 5400 - what does the d5500 have such that it was awarded an "extraordinary title", violating the order of calculation - what kind of "breakthrough" is that?)
Speaking of amateur cameras, if possible, please open the WiFi topic as much as possible. After all, now, along with GPS, this module began to be shoved into almost all manufactured models (and where not, it is optionally connected separately) - please rate how practical it is?
The following is also curious. As I understand it, in the protected camera AW120 (Nikon Coolpix) GPS has the ability to navigate the terrain (there are maps), but the mirror D5300 has a module, but there are no maps (only digital coordinates of images). If you evaluate 5500 - please describe how this issue is implemented there, similar to its predecessor, or maybe once it was named a generation later than logical, somehow more productive.
The presence of USB 2.0 in all today's cameras is very upsetting. Do you think 3.0 is being kept artificially? Then to add and release as a next model, or do you find other reasons? (Now such large cards are being released (I have 128 GB), which can only be spit at a speed of 2.0. As soon as a full-fledged camera would come out in both the cropped and full segments. For example, d7300 and d5. Or does it bother anyone? How Do you personally relate?)
Thank you.
Can I answer the question why there is no D5400 ... I have been living in China for a long time, but here for Nikon there is just a huge market. So, few people would buy the D5400 here because of the presence of a four in the number, for the same reason they missed the D7400, D400, and since in China very few people buy the youngest model (firstly, China is now a very rich country, and secondly, photographic equipment here is probably the cheapest in the world - for example, in May 2017 the D7200 costs about $ 670, and the D5500 - about $ 450, the new D7100 - ~ 480, the new D7000 - ~ 360), then the D3400 appeared for other markets ... In my opinion , Nikon generally tricky with the numbers of the cameras, if they continue this way, then maybe one day we will see the camera with the number D8193 ...
Thank you for the article. Does it make sense to overpay for 7100, or can I buy 7000? Prior to this, the Canon 5d was used for 500 years. First of all, the picture quality is of interest.
In my opinion, the difference between 7000 and 7100 is not so significant. For example, 7100 is better at high ISOs, but starting at 6400.
Thank you so much for your reviews. Today I purchased a Nikon 7100 with a Nikon 18-200mm 1: 3.5-5.6GII VR lens, I am new and would like to ask for advice with training. I will study the user manual myself. Are there any video tutorials on photography with this camera?
The Internet is literally bursting at the seams from the abundance of photography lessons.
https://youtu.be/I5BMkD8g0Pg
Hello, lovers and professionals! For many years I have been photographing on compacts and phones. And he raised money to buy a more advanced camera and, as expected, ran into the problem of choosing a model and system. Olympus or Nikon? D7000 / D7100 or OM-D M5?
In the photo business, I achieved certain knowledge and success. People ask them to take pictures, they seek advice and praise robots. Because of this, a desire arose to develop in this direction more professionally. In addition, art education and a constant desire to do something, this is accompanied.
And so, more to the point) Help me choose a system for moving from an amateur to a professional level.
I rent everything. Like morning landscapes, evening portraits, thunderstorms. Due to my active life position, I always attend mass events. The first to run into the fire, trying to make good shots and share them with the whole city. Therefore, we need the most versatile set with the prospect of development into a reporting, landscape, or genre / portrait photo, also not disdainful of shooting video. I want to clarify right away that I don’t want and do not plan to rent a wedding.
I am considering 3 options:
Nikon D7000 + 18-140mm kit + 55mm 1,8
Nikon D7100 + 18-140mm
Olympus OM-D M5 + 12-50 whales + some kind of light fix.
In Nikonov, the possibility of using the old bribes; manual and non-motorized lenses, which gives great potential for creativity; comparative low cost of components. And I am a little familiar with this system.
Confuses size and weight.
In Olympus, the dust-and-moisture protection of the entire kit pleases; stabilizer; rate of fire; design; dimensions and weight, as nature did not reward me with physical health. And somehow I like the picture from Olympus more.
Upset price Zeykovskoy optics; matrix size; autonomy;
smaller working range than 7100; it’s not clear whether manual, non-native lenses can be used. And some of them are not at all popular (
Common reason says Nikon, and the soul cries Olympus. Maybe this is due to the fact that I use the Olympus compact? What to do, what to do?
If you want Olympus, take Olympus.
but if you want “creativity” - there is a bunch of manual lenses from Jupiters and zeniths to old Zeiss, put through adapters, which are available for all systems.
In fact, most of the old D-lenses for Nikon either cost completely different "absolutely pennies", or are not particularly good in quality for new matrices, and good ones are still manual.
I did not use 18-140, I use 18-105, I took it with a set with d5100. I recently bought a d7100, thought that 18-105 would not “pull” 24MP, set it to 7100 and was pleasantly surprised - the detail is quite decent. So 18-140 should be even slightly better in quality + a wider range of FR.
7000 or 7100: the difference in the price of new devices is small, and 7100 will be more interesting: a new matrix, better AF, slightly better ergonomics.
7000 makes sense b / y search.
My first impressions of the 7100: slightly heavier than the 5100, faster access to many functions, the only noticeable drawback is the small frame buffer in RAW (compared to d5100). For you: there is a “aperture slider” - the device reads the aperture ring readings - for example, when the Helios-81H is installed, the device “knows” how much the aperture is closed, and makes adequate metering in the “A” mode (focus on the open hole, when you release the device will close aperture to the selected value).
Actually, A-mode metering will work with any manual optics on the D7X00.
There is dust and moisture protection, but not with all lenses (unprotected 18-105 experienced red light rain several times)
Regarding the weight and dimensions: you still won't put Olympus in your pocket, and if + a pair of lenses + a flash, then it's better to take a backpack. The difference in weight from a pound in a backpack, as for me, is not critical.
For Nikon it is easier / cheaper to find components and accessories (the same flashes and adapters) - if you want to develop, then this is essential.
My not impartial advice is Nikon :-)
And what do you think about Fuji, they write that they greatly benefit in the quality of pictures. Yes, and I want something more compact and lightweight than the 7100, but at the same time it is not without ease of use and professional settings.
Fuji did not use.
And the thoughts are (we are talking about Fuji with a CCD-matrix for Nikon optics): we have all the charms and disadvantages of CCD: better color rendering at low iso, strong noise at high, good where there is a lot of light: a street in the afternoon, or a studio with pulsed light.
My opinion: a camera with a CCD matrix is not at all “universal”, I see the point of taking it as a second device, for certain tasks, I myself think over time to take something from d40 / d40x / d80 for shooting in good light.
“I'm the first to run to the fire, trying to make good shots and share them with the whole city” - we have no future :(
Note to the review (to Arkady Shapoval):
From the review: "Attention: 7fps is only available when shooting in JPEG or RAW 12 bit, in RAW 14 bit only 6fps is available."
During testing, it was revealed that in DX, RAW 14-bit mode, the shooting speed is lower than with RAW 12-bit, the compression ratio does not play a role. On the Nikon_ru website, this is indicated in the specifications (but not entirely clear), then I found it in the instructions.
So, the super-duper-mega-processor Expeed-3 in DX mode does not cope with a 14-bit rav at a speed of 6 fps!
Speed drops to 5 fps. When switching to 12-bit RAW mode, or Jpeg (of any quality), the speed increases to 6 fps.
In 1,3 * crop mode, RAW 14-bit produces 6 fps
So 14-bit is too tough even at 6 frames per second :-)
A couple more inconveniences (compared to d5100): in AF-S focusing mode, when the “release priority” setting is selected, the sound notification about successful focusing disappears (there is a notification in LiveView, but no when using the OVI), when you select “focus priority” in the settings ”There is a sound notification. This is annoying, because I like to be able to press the shutter at any time and know that the camera will take a picture. Here we are faced with a choice: either sound or descent :-(
Another inconvenience - when viewing captured photos, there is no way to scroll through them with the “main wheel” during “full-frame” viewing. The ability to flip through the photo with the wheel appears only with the increase (even the minimum) It is very inconvenient to flip through a photo with a navipad - it turns out much slower.
Fixed
'Another inconvenience - when viewing captured photos, there is no way to scroll through them with the' main wheel 'during' full-frame 'viewing ...'
- can be configured in the control settings submenu (deeply buried, found recently), then you can flip with the rear wheel immediately. (Maybe someone will come in handy)
Here are the main differences between the D7100 and the D7000: where (no) D7000 is implied
24.1 MP matrix (versus 16,2 MP)
the presence of 1.3-fold crop mode (no)
processor EXPEED3 (versus EXPEED2)
51-point Advanced Multi-CAM 3500DX autofocus module (versus 39-point Multi-CAM 4800DX)
15 cross sensors for autofocus (versus 9)
1 cross sensor supports f / 8 aperture (no)
5 fps for 14-bit images (versus 6 fps)
6 fps for 12-bit images (versus 6 fps)
7 fps in 1.3x crop mode (none)
6 frames buffer for 14-bit images (versus 10)
9 frames buffer for 12-bit images (versus 15)
protection against dust and moisture of the class D300s / D800 (against protection of a smaller class)
3.2-inch rear screen with a resolution of 1 dots (versus a 229-inch resolution of 000 dots)
support for wireless adapter WU-1a, communication device UT-1 and remote control WR-1 (no)
Today released a new firmware under the number 1.03. Has anyone updated? Does it make sense to update? I did not notice such jambs (which are being fixed) at my place. Now I looked specifically.
I also did not notice such problems. I wonder if the settings fly off or not?
Hello, Arkady or everyone who is not difficult to help with good advice.
Flour of choice.
I have a Nikon D7100 + Nikkor 18-300 glass (I shoot most often on trips, I like to shoot architecture, landscapes. Portraits are quite rare. Therefore, I bought such a universal glass, which is positioned as a travel zoom). In fact, at the long end, of course, I don’t take pictures)) Rather, I use it as a telescope to look at something interesting in the distance).
In general, I wanted something sharper and brighter. It turned out that many as a staffer advise 16-85mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED VR or DX AF-S Nikkor 35mm 1: 1.8G fix.
Of course, from the read and heated debate on the photo forums in the head porridge ((But still I almost decided to buy this pair.
And here in the review of 16-35 I read: “I do not advise changing models 18-105, 18-140, 18-200, and 18-300 for this lens.” Apparently, because of the light-gathering power, it will work out))
Which of the options is correct in your opinion:
1) leave 18-300 and buy a 35mm fix
2) buy some other fix (but I would like no more expensive than the carcass itself)
3) something else as a staffer (what? Maybe some kind of zoom)
At one time I wanted to be shirik, but, of course, as a standard lens, IMHO, it will not work (after all, people sometimes have to be removed, but how people turn out in photos taken with shiriks, I don't particularly like ... I think that relatives will not forgive if will start to look a little strange in my photos).
Small zoom, m. It would be a nice bonus (especially when I don’t want to attract the attention of the subject when shooting), but in general, I run to the subject without any problems and feet (so that it doesn’t work to the detriment of quality)
I beg you, help me find the best solution, otherwise I will lose my mind)))
Thank you in advance!
Take the wonderful nikon 17-55 / 2.8 and calm down.
Thank you very much, Arkady!
It bites, of course ... the cheapest one that I saw - 47 sput, and even then, apparently, gray-gray (I'm afraid of those)
Officials have a lot more expensive, right one and a half to two times ((For such a price from thoughts, the head is even stronger around)
I understand that it’s good, but for now I’m unlikely to decide on such a lens. If something is still acceptable?
Everything else, by and large, is mediocrity for crop. Perhaps the new 16-85 / 2.8-4 would still be a good option.
Thank you!
Only he is not yet in this life, along the way)) at least on the Nikon site there isn’t for sure, and in general, apparently, we don’t have yet ((
OMG! Fotkali earlier on kodaki and did not steam, and even really liked it, especially if it turned out more or less not blurry)) but right now it’s like you choose your husband: it’s not so, and that’s not suitable))))
16-80
good, yes ... but 65 sput (((a bit too much, Sigma is more than 2 times cheaper
Sorry, Sigma AF 17-50mm f / 2.8 EX DC OS HSM Nikon F, of course ... automatic 55 wrote
Sigma is buggy. The camera sticks when scrolling through photos. And with the stabilizer it is unclear whether it works or not.
yes FIG knows, here, apparently, already as lucky)))
Oh, Arkady, you still threw a grain of confusion into my already troubled soul)))
I decided to garden ... I read about 17-55 / 2.8 from Tamron and Sigma))) The price, kanesh, is quite affordable for both, but Tamron has more complaints, Sigma is more praised.
You will forgive me for running like a drunk to the radio, but if, for example, I take such a sigma, then does it make sense to take 35k? How to explain ... Och I want to try the fix, but will the difference between it and 17-55 be leveled, i.e. in fact one of them will be lying around? Or, if in an amicable way, is it still better to have both two?
Sigma complains about focusing, while Tamronov floats quality from one copy to another, but a friend took it, and for two years he was pleased with Tamron 17-50 / 2,8. Tamron is better in sharpness and detail than Nikon 18-105 + aperture.
The zooms have their charms, the fixes have theirs. One can replace the other in some situations.
Thanks for the comment.
On the I-Market, it seemed to me, they are much more complaining specifically about Tamron in this regard, but that's okay, I read more, at least now in more detail.
But your message was understood: I’m buying 17-50 and 35mm, so for sure)) At the same time I get rid of 18-300 as unnecessary? That’s how I supposed, I just couldn’t decide whether to change my glass (and what exactly) or just buy a fix
It is possible that the 18-300 will not be so easy to get rid of, it is expensive and bulky, and the quality at the long end is unacceptable for serious shots. In any case, I sold it with great difficulty. If you are lucky enough to buy a good quality Tamron or Sigma (no back or front focus), then the 35mm 1,8 will be abandoned in a very short time. Think for yourself, zoom with fixing sharpness, 2,8 aperture and focal lengths from 17 to 50mm, why else are there separate 35mm. You are not buying a dark whale 18-55. Anyway, thirty heels at 1,8 are not sharp and at 2,0, too, real, razor sharpness starts from 4 - 5,6. You will get the same at 17-50.
If you really want a fix, then look at the Nikon DX AF-S Micro Nikkor 40mm 1: 2.8G, it is much sharper than both of them, and moreover, starting from 2,8. It costs a little more than 35 tons, and in addition to being a macro, it can easily be a staffer.
In general, do not rush, consider all the options, it’s not long to buy, but then selling is much more difficult.
Just keep in mind: filming makrohu at 40mm is very inconvenient due to the fact that you have to get very close to the subject. If these are objects on the table, then there will be no such problem, and in the case of insects, such a problem will be obvious.
many thanks for the detailed reasoned answer!
In any case, some clarity is already looming. Of course, now I will purposefully read all the reviews available about them, well, I'll try to sell my telescope))) In principle, it’s not so bad, it’s just a little pointless for me personally (but the understanding came later, it’s a pity that it wasn’t at the time of purchase) , although I read a lot of pleasant words about him, people will buy and satisfied))
Then buy 70-300 if you need a large FR
I already subconsciously began to be afraid of large FRs)) you see, I even began to look at the fix!))) Another year ago someone told me that I would think about the fix - I would just laugh at his fantasies))) but it’s like ...
Although, again, who knows that in a year I’ll get into my head ...
you can simply buy a fix for 300 mm for 40 cu, for rare trips for squirrels and birds :)
I took Sigma 17-50 / 2.8 three years ago, tested it at the Sockets mail for almost an hour, which they looked at me like an idiot. I got a good copy without any complaints, except that the stabilization in it "eats" the battery inadequately, which is not critical. On the carcass, he most of all after Nikon 50 / 1.8g af-s /
Yes, many note this (about the stabilizer). By the way, then I found out that my friend had just such a pair of D7000 + sigma 17-50. Satisfied as an elephant for several years)
Take thirty five.
From the hands - not expensive, but the lens is suitable.
Thank you!
This one is new and inexpensive, and reviews about it are often really good.
Are we talking about the one that’s for crop?)) I just remember that there seems to be 35 more cool, but for FF, I guess
Yes, for crop
Thanks again. He, too, interested me, and not at the price, namely, by the reviews.
Anyway, it’s interesting to try the fix
Svetlana, what if, after all, you freak out and take “shirik” plus “fifty dollars”? As you yourself write “… I shoot most often on trips, I like to shoot architecture, landscapes. Portraits are rare. Therefore, I bought such a universal glass, which is positioned as a travel zoom). In fact, at the long end, of course, I don’t take pictures ... ”Shirik for you,“ half a dollar ”for relatives! And everyone is happy;)
Maugli, 17-50 2,8 this is shirik plus fifty dollars. And do not freak out.
Yarkiy, thanks for not letting me step on the curve path))
Overall, yes, but 11-20 / 2,8 plus 50 / 1,4 will be tastier. But to carry the second lens with you and constantly change them hemorrhagically. Dilemma.
Oooh, are you specifically mocking a girl, also a blonde? )) I just decided what the crafts smell like (s)
And then suddenly, like a devil from a snuff box, you advise me otherwise))
Taking into account the fact that the initial message was to “pick” and not choose, then everything is in the subject.
Oh, you are trying to lead me astray)) shirik wanted, but, I'm afraid, has not yet grown to him. A fifty dollars on the crop is meaningless, in the bare balance of 35 mm it turns out. Well, judging by what the big boys said)) read here in the comments somewhere
But anyway, thank you very much! Keep me toned;)
I can’t understand “And fifty dollars on a crop is meaningless”. It depends on who shoots what and how. In the room, of course, it is difficult to take full-length portraits and group photos, on the street - please. When I shoot with a zoom on the street and there is an opportunity to choose a focal point - I turn the zoom to the area of 50-60mm - a normal FR in order to get the normal proportions of what is being filmed, or even you don't recognize your yard and people. Somehow I made a graph of FR / number of photos of my photo archive, it turned out a parabola with a top of 50mm. And you are “meaningless”.
For my own purposes, I meant (landscapes, architecture ... and the streets are sometimes narrow, you can't go far), based on reviews and recommendations. I need something more or less convenient, but it’s all to buy and get married
for narrow streets you need 17-18mm, or wider, which means 17-50 will be the optimum (at least for a start), and 35, if you really want to ... I would not take it right away, but still analyzed the running FRs - how often a range of 30-40mm is used, and, based on the analysis, determine whether a 35mm fix is needed.
Yes, I’ve already tuned in to 17-50 (though now I have another phobia about the front / back focus, but I hope that I’ll be lucky and do without dancing with a tambourine), but for some reason the fix is in my head ... apparently, because it's inexpensive, and everyone praises it))
Kanesh, for starters, and try to take at an affordable price, so as not to be excruciatingly painful for high expectations))
Don’t worry, the d7100 has a subtle focus adjustment. The back-front is not a big problem for her.
It happened to me, on crop, with which most of the photos are from 18-105, and nevertheless it turned out to be 50mm running))
As already mentioned on this site, a good way to run all your pictures through a program that will sort them by focus and everything will become clear! Only your own experience really decides!
I've read about this program a hundred times already, I was so lazy ... but, apparently, I have to))
exposureplot_113
For crop it determines the real focal or EGF?
Of course the real. EGF is a fiction of man. And then you’ll get confused where is which lens.
I've been shooting at 7100 since March 2015, paired with 50mm / 1.4g, and almost immediately noticed a thing I didn't know before - noise bars (vertical or horizontal, depending on the orientation); This usually manifested itself in strongly underexposed frames, but still on an old camera (Canon 500d), if the frame was underexposed, it was simply dark and out of grief it could be “stretched out”, but here, when stretching and suppressing noise, the stripes remained and became slightly less noticeable, the problem of course is solved simply - to expose correctly!)) But recently I came across an article that this is possibly a terrible creepy matrix glitch and an urgent need to run and carry the camera to the service center, etc. SC, but I can't do that)) and the camera is needed every single day and doubts torment me, so my question is the following - is it really when the frame is underexposed that noise in the form of vertical stripes can appear? or is it still a camera glitch and you need to part with it for a while ... (((in the attachment a file with a piece of a random photo
which file are you pulling raw or jpeg?
Rav, of course, I rejected these pictures, and didn’t strongly strive for the resultant stretching, the very fact of their appearance bothered
Yes, there is no hiccup, just a very dark picture is elongated.
This image was not stretched, it only converted from rav and to show stronger stripes in fs, duplicated the layer and brightened through the overlay with the screen, only to show the stripes))
apparently you are talking about the “Nikon D7100 banding issue” - you can google these words. this is a Nikon D5200 and D7100 problem.
the issue can be resolved only due to the loss of detail - either by handles or by changing the ratchet type converter.
Googled, yes, these bands! I read, I study! Thanks!!
you're welcome! :)
do not pay attention to the army of sofa troll theorists who will tell you that everything is fine.
Alas, there is a problem, you are right. just fanatics of the brand, any quality fits, and paid marketing reviews do not indicate such hidden flaws.
One thing is that the shortcomings are not obvious, but latent; - already good. And what prevents to correctly exhibit? There are, of course, rare cases when the flash does not fire. Excuse me, but can you name a model of a camera that, if there is a strong error in exposure, will not have noise? Or is it just that it is “striped” that matters? In any case, removing it is possible only with the loss of detail. And any fan of any brand is familiar with this phenomenon. From personal experience; - the wildest banding I saw on Canon 1100D, but its owner claimed that it appeared after overheating of the matrix by shooting video .... May not get carried away with videos; - fotik for a photo ... and a movie with a video camera already? Maybe I'm wrong?
You are still wrong, but just regarding the video, the SLR is a great tool for him. You just need to understand what you are doing and what you want to get on the way out.
It may well be wrong. There is a concept of semiconductor degradation at elevated temperatures; - a sharp increase in internal CHEMICAL processes. I did not go into details; - if interested, shake the relevant literature. To video on a DSLR ... I treat with understanding and caution.
I underexposed because of a non-fired flash (more precisely, pulsed light in the studio), this is true, and it worries that the noise just went in stripes ... I saw this for the first time, and I haven’t filmed video on the camera
“What prevents you from correctly exhibiting? "
=====================
do not believe it, there are often errors in exposure :)))
"Excuse me, but can you name a model of the camera, which, with a strong error in the exposure, will not have noise?"
=======================
I forgive. the answer is simple - most devices on the Sony matrix allow you to perfectly draw shadows and the entire picture when underexposed. "Rubber" RAVs are a feature of many nikons. you didn't know that ??? )))
“And any fan of any brand is familiar with this phenomenon. From personal experience; - the wildest banding I've seen on the Canon 1100D ”
=========================
canons do not pull the shadows well, it has been known for about 8 years. There is another matrix and another signal processing.
The post “Anna on 27.10.2015/22/48 at 7100:5200” talks about a very specific problem of specific Nikon models - “Nikon D7100 banding issue” is the problem of Nikon DXNUMX and DXNUMX. Previous models did not have it.
Question: - Can you name the model of the camera, which, with a strong error in exposure, will not have noise? …. The answer is simple - most devices on the Sony matrix allow you to perfectly draw shadows and the entire picture when underexposed. "Rubber" RAVs are a feature of many nikons. you didn't know that ??? ))) Alyoshenka, they asked you to name the MODEL of the camera, and you ... are nervous; - what happened?
My camera has the wildest barding - Canon 5D M3! Even 6D has very little of it ...
Chromatitis (in contrasting areas) on diaphragm 1,8 - somewhere up to 4, 4 and above - disappears. Anyone who is thinking of switching from 5100 to this unit - I do not recommend it. For a store test, take a control shot with an open aperture on contrasts (especially if dark details are on a white background), enlarge the shot and see. Sorry…!
I switched from 5100 to 7100, and I recommend it with two hands!
Kostya, the topic is discussion of D7100. Chromatitis on aperture 1.8? What does the carcass have to do with it? Do not mislead people.
I join Yarkiy and also highly recommend it to those who still have doubts. The Nikon D7100 is a great tool for all my tasks. We are all different; - a new model for some “new problem”, and for others NEW OPPORTUNITIES….
I look at the photos of all modern 24 megapixel devices Nikon, Sony, 18-20 megapixel Canon with a whale lens. No better than the Nikon D90 or other 12 megapixels. Something is just worse. On Toshiba matrices with short-lived banding rushing. And on 7D Canon banding. Amateurs with money flooded all the forums. Mad price for modern photographic equipment And for what? For autofocus?
At one time, zenith filmed better. With prof. With optics, everything is certainly not bad. But not everyone is given a good carcass.
Can you tell us more about the “banding pret”? And then I have doubts that under this concept everyone has their own idea .... If it doesn’t make it difficult, give a link to the full-size examples in RAW format, preferably with comments, otherwise you know how it happens ... .. the curves of the handles will contrast so much, they will scratch, the saturation will overwhelm, etc. Not about you, of course. By the way; - teach to distinguish amateurs with money. Maybe the signs are special, maybe they themselves are presented as ... Be kind.
As a dilettante I will answer (but I won’t say that I’m right with money ... with money, I would probably switch to FF, as a real dilettante with money, BGG), but simply in fact: I really like D7100 more than D80, which I had before ... despite the fact that I still have quite dark glasses. Again, due to the lack of availability of these (that is, money) I will not cut out for light glasses))
Just do not ask to throw examples of “was / was”, I just personally compare the results myself. Even if you blame the fact that your hand has filled ... but not so much that after a couple of months when changing a carcass, the results are much better (despite the fact that I do not live with a camera in my hands, but I take pictures from time to time, each time painfully remembering, how to build an expo-pair.
And the price is really mad right now for everything ((The course is insane, and it's sad
What is AF-F? How to activate it?
I don’t understand why you Arkady pay so much attention in your tests and so meticulously dig in how many frames per second each camera can take (and you always have more with desire). Who needs all these 7, 8, 10, 50 photos per second. ???
Yes, I agree to the reporters, where every second, every frame can be worth its weight in gold. But most of them use a better technique. Why would a simple photographer need all these unnecessary 7-8 fps? Even weddings rarely need them, because if the photographer is good and not bombarded by some stupid one, then quality is more important for him than quantity.
As my practice shows, all these 100500 photos are viewed at exactly the same speed and are of no interest to anyone (well, except perhaps the first frame from the series or what was shot from another place).
Oh, well, I forgot about the boobies, who just need more numbers; more pixels, more fps, more focus points ... They will buy serious devices (Yes, at least like this D7100) and shoot their stupid flowers and cats in bursts of 7 frames per second.
There are no words!
it turns out, you can enter the rate of photographing "megapixels per second"
I am not a 'reporter'.
Sports dances, competitions:
D7100, 6 frames per second - very little sometimes. I think 15-18 frames per second would be nice (well, a buffer, at least for two seconds JPEG).
There are three full flask back, a little less than 2,5 seconds, two presses of the shutter release button.
and what kind of puff do you have?
Nikon SB-900
Or maybe you, this is a fotik (D7100), with an unsightly shooting speed of 6 fps, to replace with a cheap professional video camera for 25000 bucks? And 30 frames per second. You are guaranteed! This is not a rebuke. It is unlikely that in this price category there will be cameras with characteristics of 15 photos / sec. I think they will. But not a SLR.
The video camera will not provide the required resolution (well, at least 12 megapixels) - since how to ensure the synchronization of the flash and the video camera - two, top-end FF DSLRs will be much cheaper than the amount you specified - three.
Well, I'm not sure about the rest of the parameters - at least the AF speed in low light conditions, the speed at which the recording starts, and so on.
Next, what to do with this video (even if you manage to solve all of the above problems)? With the photo, everything is simple - I poured it onto a laptop, a person came up, looked, chose, bought. A lot of unnecessary gestures are needed with the video.
At a minimum, to understand the system as a whole, for example, for this https://radojuva.com.ua/2015/11/nada-shakti/
Have you tried to shoot children? Or drunk people at a family event? This rate of fire then takes its toll. The moment will be missed while you press the button six times. And the rate of fire will give you 6 times more chances that you will get a good frame. That's the use in everyday life.
For example, try to catch my son.)))
Shutter speed is an indicator that is not important for everyone - that's true. But the fact that speed is sometimes needed and an amateur is hard to deny. Examples have already been given, I'll tell you about my own. Figure skating, the skater does an axel, a flip, or even a crossover jump. Seizing the moment and pressing the shutter button once is extremely difficult. This has been taught for years by old-school pro-photographers who shot on film. And even then the film reporters filmed very quickly. And so I compared - there is a difference between 400d, which caught only a couple of really good moments in an hourly performance, and 7d, with which I caught a good moment in almost every jump. The same comparisons are made when photographing a running child or animal. The same goes for shooting fights or weightlifting. In general, the rate of fire is a very useful property of the camera in a number of cases. The same birds, for example. The bird flies into the nest for 5 seconds to pass from the beak of the worms to the chicks. In these 5 seconds, you can take 10 frames or 50. And the probability of subsequently choosing a good frame from a large series is higher. But spreading, as you said, the entire series is a very controversial matter, most often it looks boring and uninteresting, although there are exceptions. The same snowboard, where one athlete can be filmed at 10 different points of the flight and shown in the photo which somersaults he wrote out (although, of course, more often it looks more interesting in the video).
Well, the same football shoot at a speed of even 6 frames per second is incomparably harder than with 10-12 frames.
Weddings, yes, you can take off the first dime. The dynamics, if any, is quite predictable. But still the speed gives some maneuver. When throwing a bouquet, you can not hope that you will grab the right moment, but sew in a series and at home already choose the best flight option :)
In general, the rate of fire often helps both pros and amateurs, so I think it’s wrong to talk about its meaninglessness.
Hello everyone. The other day I purchased this app. Boo. It cost 140000 tenge, along with a large backpack, two battery handles for the battery and batteries. See the price at the rate yourself.))
In parallel, I have a D90. The main minus for me is the buffer. I want to capture some moments with a series of frames, and the buffer does not allow this to be done as I want. Made 4-6 frames and wait. This did not happen on the D90.
A big plus is ISO. Filmed at 1000 and 2500, the graininess is almost invisible.
And a huge plus is the focus points. No need to move, rotate the camera to focus. Focus tracking in AS-A mode does its job well.
Who says problems with back / front focus, I hope you're not in multi-point focus, do you?
I choose focus on one point manually, I put it on the focus object and voila, everything is fine. However, as on the D90.
An example of focusing even in narrow slots.
And here it is.
How in comparison with D90?