I have used several Nikon D90 cameras at various times. In whatever conditions they were not: I constantly carried cameras with me in hikes, reinstalled lenses millions of times, in the rain, in the cold and on hot days - but the cameras worked like clockwork. Of course, I understand that good copies of Nikon D90 may have come across, but still, many years of trouble-free operation and mileage of over 130.000 (one hundred thirty thousand) of one copy and over 250.000 (a quarter of a million) of the second copy only gives rise to positive reviews.
Review of the Nikon D90. View of the camera itself.
To fully understand and understand the camera, you just need read the instructionsIt’s long and boring, but I don’t see another way. The quality of the pictures very much depends on the lens and the methodology of your shooting, as well as image control mode, therefore, to say that the camera shoots better or worse is blasphemy, we can only talk about its ergonomics, technical characteristics and direct work experience. Always remember that important how to take pictures, but not by what means.
Sample photos on Nikon D90
And so, the camera belongs to the class of digital mirrors mid-range cameras... The Nikon D90 is often said to be an advanced amateur camera. Therefore, please note that this is not a professional camera, as they often write on the Internet (especially in online stores), professional cameras - is D300(s) D200, D700, D3(x, s), D4, D800(E) - therefore, you need to understand that the device is more aimed at amateurs than at professionals. The main feature of the camera is that the set of functions allows you to use the Nikon D90 just as well as professional technology, but with some limitations.
Sample photo on Nikon D90
The main parameters of Nikon D90, which are worth paying attention to
1. Live view
2. HD video 1280 * 720 24k \ s
3MP CMOS sensor
4. Aluminum-magnesium case with a bunch of buttons
5. Built-in autofocus drive
6. Additional screen
7. 4.5 frames \ second
8. Flash operating in Comand mode and FP mode
9. Lithium-ion battery
10. Matrix cleaning system
11. Bracketing exposure
Example photo on Nikon D90
Now let's go through each item from a practical point of view.
1. Live View. Under live view it means “Live View” and in Nikon D90 it is quite a strong point.
First: made for the D90 very large screen (920.000 points - the same as in professional D3, D700) from which you can not tear yourself away. He even knows how to show slide shows to music!
Secondly: very convenient button to switch to live view - just clicked and the incomprehensible digital SLR turned into an ordinary soap box (useful for people who just switched to SLR cameras and just can't figure out what to see through the viewfinder).
Third: this mode allows clearly control focus at any point in your frame. Let’s take a closer look - when sighting you can select any area in the frame with the joystick and zoom it in on a scale of 1 to 1 - that is, select any point for focusing. This mode is indispensable when working with manual (non-autofocus lenses) and a tripod.
True, it takes time to get used to the work of the mirror, which adds unnecessary sounds and clinks when working. The mirror and shutter clicks when Live View is enabled, and when shooting, they click twice. It may seem that the camera is taking extra frames. A huge disadvantage of this mode is that autofocus works very, very slowly, and in video mode it does not work at all.
Photo on Nikon D90
2.HD video 1280 * 720 24k \ s without autofocus - absolutely unnecessary thing for a photographer
Why not necessary - because who will watch the video without autofocus? Okay, you can still take photos somehow in manual focus mode, but video with manual focus, when the scene changes at the speed of light, is a very difficult task. I recommend shooting video only with a tripod. A couple of times I shot a video with my hands - you can shoot, but again, it's very, very difficult. One more camera - Nikon D5000 - has video without autofocus.
The video itself is quite solid, in Motion JPEG format - which means that it “weighs” a lot. I advise you to immediately distill it into any of the popular formats after shooting - save a lot of disk space. Also, I advise you to block the exposure when shooting a video so that there are no tonal differences when changing the composition in the frame. Another serious problem with video is limiting the duration of the clip in 1280*720 up to 5 minutes. On the one hand, 5 minutes is quite enough to create short video selections, but I had to film my friend's performance once, and the 5 minute limit made the process very difficult. Also, after several 5-minute clips, the camera starts shooting clips up to 30 seconds long and turns off automatically, most likely due to the sensor overheating. The Nikon D90 is the first camera from Nikon with the ability to shoot video, so you shouldn't ask more of it. If you need a Nikon camera that shoots videos well and has automatic focus, then I advise you to look at the model Nikon D3100, Nikon D5100 и Nikon D7000.
Photo on the Nikon D90. At high ISO.
3MP CMOS - just right
Why more? The more pixels - the higher the density and there may be more noise, due to the fact that the matrix cell is smaller and smaller - which means that it can catch less light. I advise you to read my article Battle of Megapixels.
The matrix is excellent. Of course, I already see noise at ISO 400, but at ISO 1600 they are still quite tolerant.
A very important point I noticed when working at high ISO, that the noise increases sharply after ISO 2500, that is, at ISO 2500 you can still squeeze something out, but then the quality of the photo drops dramatically. I recommend shooting at the proven ISO 200 and not raising ISO above 1600. ISO LO-1 (100) should be enabled only on a bright day, when you need to get some kind of portrait with an open aperture in order to keep within the shutter speed of 1 / 4000s. The values of ISO Hi1, Hi0.3, Hi0.7 are a kind of software wrapping of ISO, at such values it is practically impossible to get a low-noise picture.
Sample photo on Nikon D90
4. Aluminum-magnesium housing (part)
In the introduction, I wrote that I constantly use, drag, ride with this camera and it feels quite adequately. Aluminum-magnesium alloy (although I did not find such information on the manufacturer’s website, but by weight, it’s not plastic) and one rubber insert, make the camera very practical, well-knocked down and provide excellent weight balance with different lenses. Perhaps for little hands it will be a little bit wrong, but for the serious hand of the photographer it’s just lovely.
On the body is a whole bunch of buttons. In the camera - the more the better. You can get quick access to all the basic functions and not scroll through the huge menu. I configured the programmable button to change the type of focus.
Wildlife Photo on Nikon D90
5. Built-in autofocus drive
A panacea for saving money and a panacea for professionals. The Nikon D90 camera has a built-in auto focus motor (screwdriver) for working with lenses marked AF. This allows you to use optics without a built-in focusing system (which means that you can use any autofocus lenses). Usually such optics are cheaper, for example, you can buy Nikon 50mm F1.8D AF for only $ 150 and feel like a real professional. Also, a huge portion of professional optics simply go without an auto focus motor. For example, there is simply no analogue for the Nikkor 135 DC with a built-in autofocus motor. More details about the compatibility of Nikon lenses in my article - Lens difference.
Photo on Nikon D90
6. Optional monochronous screen.
Recently I read on the Internet that the small monochrome display on the D90 is archaism, I was very surprised by this. In fact, it is not, the additional display is very good ergonomics and saves time, battery power, unnecessary movements. Let me explain - the display is always on top and you do not need to turn the camera upside down to look at the main display, secondly, it has a very high contrast in the sun (everything is visible), thirdly, it does not consume the battery (even the backlight mode of the additional screen uses a lot less charge than the main display). In general, the camera looks even more impressive with him. By the way - the backlight mode is turned on by turning the camera switch to the right. He himself then returns to its original position. Below is one of the most serious disadvantages associated with this lever.
Photo on Nikon D90
7 - 4.5 frames / second
Someone can say, they say, stamps from Kenon are shot at 10 frames per second, the same D3 shoots 8 frames per second, but what can I say, D300 with a battery pack squeezes 8 frames per second. And now the question is - why do you need it? Burst shooting is very rare. 3 frames per second is already quite enough, the rest is only for specific tasks. Therefore, almost 5 frames per second is a pretty strong point. Conduct an experiment - at what speed can you press the camera button in the frame shooting mode? The same 5 times plus or minus will come out. In any case, the Nikon D90 has a higher rate of fire than the new, very expensive professional Nikon D800which can shoot at speeds up to 4 fps.
Sample photo on Nikon D90
8. Comand mode flash and FP support
Classics from Nikon. No need to buy expensive flash units or synchronizers - just go to the bracketing \ flash menu and select flash control mode C. Set the channel and group and control external flash units, such as SB-600, SB-700, SB-900, SB-800 и SB-910. Also do not forget that you can configure the built-in flash so that it gives only commands and does not take part in the shooting itself.
Then the most interesting - quick sync mode... With external flashes, you can set any shutter speed, up to 1/4000. Those who have not encountered such a problem will not understand; who knows, they will be glad. Few cameras support this mode. Why you need this, you can find, for example, in my article - 'flash in the afternoon '.
Sample photo on Nikon D90
9. Rechargeable Li-ion Battery EN-EL3e
Great armor-piercing battery. Also suitable for D700, D200, D300(s) etc. Withstands flash without over 2000 frames. The instructions say that it can provide work for 1200 shots, a third made with the flash - somewhere it is. The number of shots is greatly affected by the type of lens (e.g. VR mode), delay modes of the main display, etc.
Sample photo on Nikon D90
10. Matrix cleaning system
A very useful thing. I recommend setting the cleaning when you turn off the camera, because when you turn it on, you often need to take pictures right away, and when you turn it off, let it clean for yourself. I advise you about cleaning the matrix read here.
Sample photo on Nikon D90
11. Bracketing exposure
Bracketing allows you to shoot without fear for the correct exposure. True, this requires additional time, battery wear and fast filling of the memory card. It is under bracketing 4.5 frames per second are useful. I recommend not much use bracketing, it’s better to adjust the camera (especially the amendment exposure) and make one frame in RAW, and then, if anything, hold it out programmatically rather than slam the shutter on expo.
Nature photo on Nikon D90
I would like to note a number of huge advantages: wA wide range of functions to improve the picture - noise reduction functions, D-lighting etc.
Nikon D90 photo
The disadvantages of the Nikon D90:
The strongest minus when working with the camera, I consider a strong return of the shutdown lever - that is, when you turn on the backlight of the additional screen, the lever moves back to the “ON” position, but its inertia is very strong and it goes further and turns off the camera (to the “OFF” position), therefore, you need to smoothly remove your finger after turning on the backlight of the additional screen. Very unpleasant stories are associated with this glitch, when at night, at important moments, the camera simply went out after setting the settings on the external display. Also, this switch is pretty loose, but it still works stably.
Also, after active work for a year, the rubber band, which is located to the right of the display, fell off, it expanded slightly and peeled off. I noticed that the rubber band covers the activity indicator of the memory card, that is, there is a fear of pushing the indicator deep into the camera and damaging it. The disease was treated by cutting off excess rubber and superglue. D90 got this disease from D200 and from D80. But, of course, I use my D90 camera a lot.
Exposure in 1/4000 second - if you haven’t understood yet, then when shooting with fast lenses starting with aperture of F / 1.8 and lower, you will miss the shutter speed, even at the lowest ISO.
Metering (exposure meter) does not work with non-chip lenses. It would be nothing, but this is just the camera and inferior to professional ones, such as D200 and older, almost any lens can be attached to them and the camera will operate in semi-automatic aperture priority mode or in good old manual mode. This really limits the operation of the camera with completely manual (without processor contacts) lenses, for example, Soviet ones - and you have to completely set all the settings “by eye”. Personally, I would very much like this function, since I am a fan of photographing with Soviet (and post-Soviet) optics.
Photo on Nikon D90
For 3d tracking focus, there are not enough points (focus areas), and indeed, not enough focus points for such a solid camera.
No one wants depth of field view button imaged space. I use it very rarely, for example, in macro photography, but usually in 99% it is not needed. A funny thing that I advise you to check is to raise the flash and press the depth of field button (it’s located below, under the lens mount) and you will see that for a couple of seconds the flash works as a flashlight (using the strobe effect)
I consider one more unnecessary button \ property focus point lock button. It was useful to me only a couple of times, when I very strongly brought the camera to my face and accidentally pressed the joystick, thereby changing the focus point, in other cases, the point retains its position. It would be better instead of it to set the lever for changing the metering (as in older models), and so you have to press the top button near the external display and turn one of the selectors.
Photo at Nikon D90
Brief comparison with Nikon D80:
D90 is a descendant Nikon D80, which has an increased rate of fire, a different type of sensor (CMOS VS CCD), a central multi selector button is added, there is a Live View function and the ability to record video, and the display is also enlarged. Battery, menu navigation, ergonomics and other important functions remained the same. If you Nikon D80 I do not recommend upgrading the Nikon D90, as the main functions of the cameras are the same.
A brief comparison of Nikon 90 with D300, D300s:
D300, D300s Are professional cameras from Nikon, and the amateur D90 cannot compete with them. IN D300, D300s stronger body excerpt up to 1/8000, a professional camera control interface, high rate of fire and the ability to work with manual lenses, this is where the main differences end. I do not recommend overpaying for D300, D300s unless you have to shoot 1000 frames every day.
A brief comparison of Nikon 90 with D7000:
D7000 surpasses even the Nikon D300 in a number of parameters, D300s, and especially Nikon D90, because as an upgrade I recommend only Nikon D7000 or already ff Nikon D700, D600, D800.
Photo at Nikon D90
Fit in the Nikon D90 Camera I think control with infrared remote Nikon ML-L3It costs a penny, and gives a lot of opportunities.
Attention: The final result of the image in the photograph depends very much on a large number of factors and the camera does not play the first role in this quantity, therefore, when photographing, remember - important how to take pictures, and don't try hard to find the best camera.
Sample Photos
The photos in the gallery below were shot on a budget lens Yongnuo 35mm f / 2 (model YN35mm F2N for Nikon cameras) and shown without treatment. Part of the photos is the conversion of the source RAW files by the original Nikon ViewNX-i utility without any additional adjustments, the other part is the original on-camera JPEG.
Download source files in format JPEG can at this link (114 files in the '.JPG' format, 735 MB).
More examples of photos, as well as source files, can be found in the reviews:
- YONGNUO LENS YN50mm F1.4N E
- Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-55mm 1: 3.5-5.6GII ED SWM Aspherical
- Nikon N AF-S Nikkor 58mm 1: 1.4G Nano Crystal Coat SWM Aspherical
- YONGNUO 50mm 1: 1.8 (YN50mm F1.8N)
- Tokina VCM-S AT-X PRO SD 70-200 F4 (IF) FX N / AIS
- Nikon AF Nikkor 28mm 1: 2.8 (MKI)
- Tokina AT-X 80-400mm 1: 4.5-5.6 (AT-X 840 AF-II)
- Nikon AF Nikkor 20mm 1: 2.8D
- Tamron PZD Di 28-300mm F / 3.5-6.3 Piezo Drive VC Model A010
- Nikon Zoom-NIKKOR 80-200mm 1: 4.5 (AI, MKII)
- SIGMA ZOOM 28-105mm D 1: 2.8-4 DG
- Nikon AF Nikkor 28-70mm 1: 3.5-4.5 (MKI)
- Sigma 135-400mm 1: 4.5-5.6 D APO
- Tokina SD 24-70 F2.8 (IF) FX AT-X PRO Aspherical
- Nikon AF Micro Nikkor 105mm 1: 2.8 (MKI)
- Tamron 16-300mm F / 3.5-6.3 Di II PZD VC Model B016
- Tokina 107 Fisheye 10-17mm F3.5-4.5 DX AT-X Internal Focus
- INDUSTRAR 22U-1 1: 3,5 F = 50mm P
- LOMO RO501-1 F = 100 1: 2
- Nikon ED AF Nikkor 80-200mm 1: 2.8 (MKI)
- LOMO RO500-1 F = 90 1: 2
- Tokina AT-X PRO AF 28-70mm 1: 2.6-2.8 (Tokina AT-X 270 AF PRO)
- Nikon Lens Series E Zoom 75-150mm 1: 3.5 (MKII)
- Sigma DC 17-70mm 1: 2.8-4.5 MACRO HSM
- Tokina AT-X PRO SD 11-20 F2.8 (IF) DX ASPHERICAL
- SIGMA ZOOM 55-200mm 1: 4-5.6 DC HSM
- TAIR-3 4,5 / 300A
- Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 55-200mm 1: 4-5.6GII ED VR II
- QUANTARAY TECH-10 NF AF MULTI-COATED 1: 4-5.6 f = 75-300mm
- Nikon NIKKOR-SC Auto 1: 1.2 f = 55mm
- Sigma DC 18-50mm 1: 2.8 EX MACRO HSM
- Tamron AF Aspherical 28-80mm 1: 3.5-5.6 177D
- Quantaray 70-300mm 1: 4-5.6 D LDO MACRO for Nikon AF, MACRO (200-300)
- SIGMA ZOOM 28-200mmD 1: 3.8-5.6 UC Aspherical
- Quantaray 70-300mm 1: 4-5.6 D LDO MACRO for Nikon AF
- MC PANCOLAR 1,8 / 50 CARL ZEISS JENA DDR
- YONGNUO 40mm 1: 2.8 (YN40mm F2.8N)
- Sigma 70-300mm D 1: 4-5.6 APO DG
- TOKINA AF 70-210 1: 4-5.6
- Sigma 70-300mm 1: 4-5.6 D DL MACRO SUPER
- Quantaray for Nikon AF 28-300mm 1: 3.5-6.3 LDO Multi-Coated (28-300mmD Ashperical IF)
- SIGMA ZOOM 28-300mm 1: 3.5-6.3 DG MACRO
- YONGNUO LENS YN 14mm F 2.8 N
- Tamron AF Tele-Macro 70-210mm 1: 4-5.6 158DN
- I-26m-U 2,8 / 52
- Sigma Zoom DC 18-200mm 1: 3.5-6.3 II HSM OS
- Yongnuo YN 85mm F1.8N
- INDUSTRAR 22U-1 1: 3,5 F = 50mm P
- SIGMA ZOOM 18-50mm 1: 2.8 EX DC (D)
- Nikon IX-NIKKOR 60-180mm 1: 4-5.6
- YONGNUO LENS 100mm 1: 2 (YN100mm F2N, for Nikon)
- PROMASTER DIGITAL XR EDO AF Aspherical LD (IF) 18-200mm 1: 3.5-6.3 Macro
- Tamron Di II SP 17-50mm F / 2.8 VC
- MC HELIOS-44M-4 58mm 1: 2
- YONGNUO 35mm 1: 2 (YN35mm F2N)
- Sigma DC 17-70mm 1: 2.8-4.5
- Nikon ED AF-S Nikkor 300mm 1: 4D IF Silent Wave Motor
- Yongnuo YN60mm F2NE MF MACRO
Prices for modern Nikon cameras in popular stores can look at this link.
Video review, retrospective
Comments on this post do not require registration. Anyone can leave a comment. Many different photographic equipment can be found on AliExpress.
Conclusions:
In general, the Nikon D90 camera is simply lovely, a wide range of functions will allow both professional and amateur to work. The speed of work and the quality of the picture are very pleasing.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram
Arkady, accept another gratitude from the admiring newcomer. A lot of useful information. Available language. You, great fellow !!!
Now I ask you to help make a choice. D90 with a whale 18-105 and the ability to immediately buy 50 1.8
Or D90 and Tamron 17-50 2.8 and the possibility of acquiring fifty dollars is postponed due to material capabilities.
I use the advanced compact from Canon mainly in manual modes. With great pleasure I photograph landscapes, portraits, and architecture. It is aimed at further professional growth.
And one more off-topic question. I read the reviews of the Pentax K-30 and he sunk into my soul. I didn't hold it in my hands. I looked at the lenses - the park is small and expensive. It seems to be a lot of controversial points, but the K-30 is so handsome !!! And there is a lot of functionality in it. They compare it with D90 and K-30 looks very worthy. Your opinion is very interesting.
http://www.onfoto.ru/review/Pentax-K-30/1840.html
Thank you
K-30 is very good. My opinion is that technology (especially the camera) is far from the foreground. And choosing between Nikon D90, Pentax K-30, you, first of all, choose a System with which you will work for a long time.
Is it possible to compare the Nikon d90 and Canon 500d, 600d cameras in terms of level? Or is Canon's amateur camera a level lower?
In a sense - below.
Thanks, Arkady. And yet, if you start, is it better to d90 and 18-105 with a fifty fifty or d1.8 and tamron 90-17 50?
Better 18-105 with a fifty dollars.
Thanks for the answer, just having difficulty choosing. I have the opportunity now to take the D90 or Canon 500d. I have 400d at the moment, I want to change the carcass and lens, I decided on the lens. But with the carcass, the difficulty is that the d500 is cheaper than the d90. And so I can’t understand the fundamental difference, on the one hand, the d90 looks more solid, bigger, with the screen on top, but this is all the bells and whistles. The main indicators are the same. Excerpts, ISO, bracketing, metering. Matrices, as I understand it, too. And I don’t know if it makes sense to overpay now.
Here is a very easy solution for you - http://snapsort.com/compare/Canon_EOS_500D-vs-Nikon_D90
Thanks for the text! My d90 became even clearer to me)) I just can’t figure out how to set a long shutter speed. Its maximum is 30 seconds, but there is the opportunity, if I am not mistaken, to shoot at a faster shutter speed. I tried the focus with the clamp down, but it did not work. Can you tell me how to increase shutter speed? Thank.
In S, M mode, turn the shutter speed dial to BULB, in this mode the shutter speed can be arbitrarily long.
Hello, I am looking for advice ..
I'm going to buy a DSLR, but the budget is limited, so I take it at my own risk and second-hand ..
the question itself: which SLR to choose? stopped at 3 options, d80, d90 or d200 ..
read a lot of different reviews and reviews ..
but finally I still can’t stop ..
I’m going to do photography more professionally in the future .. and even think about making money on it ..
Which device do you recommend? and why?
Thanks in advance!..
D90, since it is newer, D80 and D200 are very noisy in terms of high ISO.
Hello! And can you advise which company is better to take the battery pack for Nikon D90?
Or a manufacturer! Or is it not so important?
Thanks in advance!!
The best option is Nikon.
Arkady thanks for the text.
Now I have a D40 with glasses 18-55,55-200,90 / 3,5; 35 / 1,8. According to reviews, I tend to D90. to full if I go. then not very soon.
Questions:
1. Or maybe not D 90? What other models with this money will be interesting after the D40?
2. Will all the KTP glasses I have will work with D 90?
3. What lenses will be maximally disclosed on the D90? Need staffing zoom or fix.
1. Maybe not the D90. You can look at the D300, D300s, D7000
2. Yes, they will.
3. Reveals the potential of the photographer, not the lens. Decide what exactly you need.
The question is - recently the camera has begun to dull. when turned on, the green lamp of the card is on for a long time. then, when switching to photo viewing, there is also a delay of a couple of seconds.
one thought - can I somehow update the firmware .. or do something else?
The problem is not in the camera, but in the memory card.
Arkady Shapoval
September 21st, 2012 at 4:21 pm · Reply
1. Maybe not the D90. You can look at the D300, D300s, D7000
Yes, but the D300, D300s, D7000 are worth other money.
2. Yes, they will.
3. Reveals the potential of the photographer, not the lens. Decide what exactly you need.
I already wrote I need a regular fix for every day or a regular zoom. What models to see?
Also, D300, D300s, D7000 have other functionality.
Decide whether a regular zoom or fixed, I had in mind this. Among the regular fixes of relatives, there is a good Nikon 35mm f / 1.8G AF-S DX Nikkor, native zoom native 17-55 is quite expensive, because there are options Tamron AF 17-50mm f / 2.8 SP XR Di II LD Aspherical [IF] VC for Nikon.
Hello Arkady, I just can’t decide on the choice of the first DSLR, I wanted the D5100, but now I'm not sure! I hesitate between the D5100 and D90, do not tell me which is better to choose for a long time. Thanks in advance.
Due to the development of camera construction, there is no such thing as a "long time" for the CZK. Therefore, if you use it purely for amateur purposes, then I would recommend D5100, if the goals are slightly higher, then D90.
Thank you, Arkady, for the article and for the excellent site in general. True, I already managed to buy myself a D90 as the first DSLR for training a year ago, after reading hundreds of rave reviews about it on the net and comparing it with all the reviews of competitors in this price range. The device is really very good and functional with many settings. It's just a shame that today it costs $ 300 cheaper and you can find a carcass for less than $ 500 on sale. But when I bought it, I had little money left for the lens and I decided to take Nikkor AF 50mm 1.8D, since it is a good high-aperture optics for only $ 100. But as it turned out, I did not take into account the problem of the lack of a wide angle, which is inconvenient and often does not allow you to shoot what you want. And if on the street it is still possible to solve the problem by walking backward with your feet, but also not always, then in the premises it is generally a disaster ... in the premises you have to limit yourself to single portraits. Maybe someone will find my experience useful.
And ask you, Arkady, what good universal zoom autofocus lenses would you recommend, at a price of up to $ 800, for all occasions?
For crop, you need to look at the range 16-55 and the like. Native 17-55 is very expensive, similar from other manufacturers are of lower quality. I do this https://radojuva.com.ua/2011/11/tamron-17-50mm-f2-8-xr-di-ii-ld-aspherical-if/ Take a dark wagon type 18-300 I see no reason
hmm ... my own 17-55 seems to me not just expensive - $ 1400, it is probably not even reasonable to take a crop lens for such a price)) Tamron 17-50 is good of course, but won't its maximum 50mm be enough? Taking off a fifty-kopeck piece on fixed, the need to come closer appears less often than the need to step back, but still ... Have you tried the Sigma AF 17-70mm F2.8-4? It costs the same money as tamron. Sigma is certainly not constant 2.8 like tamron, but it is lighter than most station wagons, the range is wider than tamron, there is a stabilizer and a smart built-in motor (not fundamentally, of course for the D90) ... but I heard that like tamron, you need to carefully choose a working copy in the store, front back focus is very different for different instances.
I did not use sigma. I can not tell.
Good evening!
Please tell me how fast the screwdriver works on it?
For example, compared with 18-55 and 18-105 or 35mm 1.8.
Thank you!
The screwdriver works by itself in much the same way as on any other camera. The focusing speed for which you ask depends on the lens itself, which will rotate from a screwdriver on the camera. Different lenses behave differently.
Good afternoon, Arkady. I have a D3100 and 3 glasses: 35 / 1,8; 18-55; 55-300. I began to think about upgrading to the Nikon D90.
Interested in your opinion, is it worth it to move on? I'm not going to switch to FF.
My opinion is not worth it. This will not affect the quality of your images in any way, unless you intend to use the Nikon CLS.
let the quality of the photo remain the same, but in terms of ease of shooting? In your opinion, is it more convenient to shoot a camera similar to the d90 or d3100?
I know for sure that the D90 has better ergonomics than amateur cameras like the D3100. About this is indicated in the review.
Arkady hello! Tell me, I was going to buy myself a D90, as a teapot, I am interested in one important aspect. There are many “af-s” “vr” values, and so on which lens for a beginner will be the most interesting and high quality of the 18-105 series! Going to shoot mainly the sea, mountains and travel! I ask you not to laugh at stupid questions, they just won't tell you in the store, but just pair up ... Thank you in advance for your advice !!!
Here are all these meanings - https://radojuva.com.ua/2012/03/nikon-lenses/. Lens 18-105 will be just right.
Your experimental conclusion is interesting ...
And will the lenses fit: No. 1. Seikanon 55-225mm f / 3.5-4.5 and No. 2. Tamron 28-55mm f / 3.5-4.5 on nikon d90?
And it depends on the type of mount on them, because Tamrons do and have done for different mounts and rusby.
Both came up :)
A great replacement for an expensive telephoto and a native portrait :)
Arkady hello!
For several weeks now I have been reading your reviews - respect, thanks and all that)) It helps a lot to put in order an avalanche of information for a newbie that I am.
Now the question. Tell me please. I took Nikon D90 and Nikkorovskaya 35 ku, but the angle is somewhat narrow in my opinion, I would like, probably more versatility, but without loss of quality ... Now I'm tormented, isn't it better for me to change this AF-S DX NIKKOR 35mm f / 1.8G (http://nikon.ru/ru_RU/product/nikkor-lenses/auto-focus-lenses/dx/single-focal-length/af-s-dx-nikkor-35mm-f-1-8g), although aperture, on a less aperture, but a telephoto-wide-angle 16-85mm f / 3.5-5.6G ED VR AF-S DX NIKKOR (http://nikon.ru/ru_RU/product/nikkor-lenses/auto-focus-lenses/dx/zoom/16-85mm-f-3-5-5-6g-ed-vr-af-s-dx-nikkor) or AF-S DX NIKKOR 18-200mm f / 3.5-5.6 G ED VR II ... Because if I buy one of the latter two, the 2 will gather dust at all, nothing to do, in my opinion ... Share your thoughts ?
Thanks in advance.
It all depends on the needs. If without a flash in the room, then 35t is indispensable, if you get out into nature or into the city, then the Shirik-zoom-universal will be better.
Thank! A new round of reflection begins)))
... 35, perhaps, let it remain for portraits, museums, etc. (the lenses, at least, do not break like clubs))), but for nature / city, however, then something like AF-S DX NIKKOR 18-200mm f / 3.5-5.6 G ED VR II, although not like that and shirik, but a wagon ...
Arkady hello. Your site is good (very informative) !!! You will be the last straw in my agony. I want to take the D90, it's time to grow above the soap dish, I went to the store to scoop up both Nikon and Kenon, as many advise. Nikon liked more, but sellers began to say that the Kenon 600 is much better. Your advice on this subject please. Our D90 kit comes from 18-105 at a very nice price. And yet what excites me in kenon is there a correction for +, - the view of the photographer, is it present in the D90? I would be grateful for the answer.
Yes, there is an amendment for the D90. The D90 is an advanced amateur camera and the 600D is just an amateur. I mean that d90 is above the level for 600d
Arkady THANKS! About sellers, I thought so.
Arkady, please tell me, I can’t fix the problems with the card in any way!
When turned on, it says on the screen that the card is locked! What should I do in such cases? How can I fix this?
There is a special small switch on the card, move it to another position.
Thank you very much!
SW Arkady! To date, in the price category D90 (about 5 thousand UAH for a new body) are there analogues in terms of ergonomics and functionality? I am looking for a replacement for my D3100, I need a camera for reporting photos at weddings. Tell me which is better to buy. I thought about the used D300 but I'm afraid to get on a bad copy. Thanks for the answer.
I would take the D300, even with high mileage, the camera is much better for the D90 in control and functionality.
6000 thousand UAH for the body (mileage of about 20k) is not much?
too much)
And what is the real price?
About 5000
Thank you.
Hello Arkady, a choice between Kenon D600 or Nikon D90?
It would not be bad to hear the tasks facing the cameras.
The quality of the photo.
Due to the wider DD and lower noise, the D90 will be slightly better than 600d.