I have used several Nikon D90 cameras at various times. In whatever conditions they were not: I constantly carried cameras with me in hikes, reinstalled lenses millions of times, in the rain, in the cold and on hot days - but the cameras worked like clockwork. Of course, I understand that good copies of Nikon D90 may have come across, but still, many years of trouble-free operation and mileage of over 130.000 (one hundred thirty thousand) of one copy and over 250.000 (a quarter of a million) of the second copy only gives rise to positive reviews.
Review of the Nikon D90. View of the camera itself.
To fully understand and understand the camera, you just need read the instructionsIt’s long and boring, but I don’t see another way. The quality of the pictures very much depends on the lens and the methodology of your shooting, as well as image control mode, therefore, to say that the camera shoots better or worse is blasphemy, we can only talk about its ergonomics, technical characteristics and direct work experience. Always remember that important how to take pictures, but not by what means.
Sample photos on Nikon D90
And so, the camera belongs to the class of digital mirrors mid-range cameras... The Nikon D90 is often said to be an advanced amateur camera. Therefore, please note that this is not a professional camera, as they often write on the Internet (especially in online stores), professional cameras - is D300(s) D200, D700, D3(x, s), D4, D800(E) - therefore, you need to understand that the device is more aimed at amateurs than at professionals. The main feature of the camera is that the set of functions allows you to use the Nikon D90 just as well as professional technology, but with some limitations.
Sample photo on Nikon D90
The main parameters of Nikon D90, which are worth paying attention to
1. Live view
2. HD video 1280 * 720 24k \ s
3MP CMOS sensor
4. Aluminum-magnesium case with a bunch of buttons
5. Built-in autofocus drive
6. Additional screen
7. 4.5 frames \ second
8. Flash operating in Comand mode and FP mode
9. Lithium-ion battery
10. Matrix cleaning system
11. Bracketing exposure
Example photo on Nikon D90
Now let's go through each item from a practical point of view.
1. Live View. Under live view it means “Live View” and in Nikon D90 it is quite a strong point.
First: made for the D90 very large screen (920.000 points - the same as in professional D3, D700) from which you can not tear yourself away. He even knows how to show slide shows to music!
Secondly: very convenient button to switch to live view - just clicked and the incomprehensible digital SLR turned into an ordinary soap box (useful for people who just switched to SLR cameras and just can't figure out what to see through the viewfinder).
Third: this mode allows clearly control focus at any point in your frame. Let’s take a closer look - when sighting you can select any area in the frame with the joystick and zoom it in on a scale of 1 to 1 - that is, select any point for focusing. This mode is indispensable when working with manual (non-autofocus lenses) and a tripod.
True, it takes time to get used to the work of the mirror, which adds unnecessary sounds and clinks when working. The mirror and shutter clicks when Live View is enabled, and when shooting, they click twice. It may seem that the camera is taking extra frames. A huge disadvantage of this mode is that autofocus works very, very slowly, and in video mode it does not work at all.
Photo on Nikon D90
2.HD video 1280 * 720 24k \ s without autofocus - absolutely unnecessary thing for a photographer
Why not necessary - because who will watch the video without autofocus? Okay, you can still take photos somehow in manual focus mode, but video with manual focus, when the scene changes at the speed of light, is a very difficult task. I recommend shooting video only with a tripod. A couple of times I shot a video with my hands - you can shoot, but again, it's very, very difficult. One more camera - Nikon D5000 - has video without autofocus.
The video itself is quite solid, in Motion JPEG format - which means that it “weighs” a lot. I advise you to immediately distill it into any of the popular formats after shooting - save a lot of disk space. Also, I advise you to block the exposure when shooting a video so that there are no tonal differences when changing the composition in the frame. Another serious problem with video is limiting the duration of the clip in 1280*720 up to 5 minutes. On the one hand, 5 minutes is quite enough to create short video selections, but I had to film my friend's performance once, and the 5 minute limit made the process very difficult. Also, after several 5-minute clips, the camera starts shooting clips up to 30 seconds long and turns off automatically, most likely due to the sensor overheating. The Nikon D90 is the first camera from Nikon with the ability to shoot video, so you shouldn't ask more of it. If you need a Nikon camera that shoots videos well and has automatic focus, then I advise you to look at the model Nikon D3100, Nikon D5100 и Nikon D7000.
Photo on the Nikon D90. At high ISO.
3MP CMOS - just right
Why more? The more pixels - the higher the density and there may be more noise, due to the fact that the matrix cell is smaller and smaller - which means that it can catch less light. I advise you to read my article Battle of Megapixels.
The matrix is excellent. Of course, I already see noise at ISO 400, but at ISO 1600 they are still quite tolerant.
A very important point I noticed when working at high ISO, that the noise increases sharply after ISO 2500, that is, at ISO 2500 you can still squeeze something out, but then the quality of the photo drops dramatically. I recommend shooting at the proven ISO 200 and not raising ISO above 1600. ISO LO-1 (100) should be enabled only on a bright day, when you need to get some kind of portrait with an open aperture in order to keep within the shutter speed of 1 / 4000s. The values of ISO Hi1, Hi0.3, Hi0.7 are a kind of software wrapping of ISO, at such values it is practically impossible to get a low-noise picture.
Sample photo on Nikon D90
4. Aluminum-magnesium housing (part)
In the introduction, I wrote that I constantly use, drag, ride with this camera and it feels quite adequately. Aluminum-magnesium alloy (although I did not find such information on the manufacturer’s website, but by weight, it’s not plastic) and one rubber insert, make the camera very practical, well-knocked down and provide excellent weight balance with different lenses. Perhaps for little hands it will be a little bit wrong, but for the serious hand of the photographer it’s just lovely.
On the body is a whole bunch of buttons. In the camera - the more the better. You can get quick access to all the basic functions and not scroll through the huge menu. I configured the programmable button to change the type of focus.
Wildlife Photo on Nikon D90
5. Built-in autofocus drive
A panacea for saving money and a panacea for professionals. The Nikon D90 camera has a built-in auto focus motor (screwdriver) for working with lenses marked AF. This allows you to use optics without a built-in focusing system (which means that you can use any autofocus lenses). Usually such optics are cheaper, for example, you can buy Nikon 50mm F1.8D AF for only $ 150 and feel like a real professional. Also, a huge portion of professional optics simply go without an auto focus motor. For example, there is simply no analogue for the Nikkor 135 DC with a built-in autofocus motor. More details about the compatibility of Nikon lenses in my article - Lens difference.
Photo on Nikon D90
6. Optional monochronous screen.
Recently I read on the Internet that the small monochrome display on the D90 is archaism, I was very surprised by this. In fact, it is not, the additional display is very good ergonomics and saves time, battery power, unnecessary movements. Let me explain - the display is always on top and you do not need to turn the camera upside down to look at the main display, secondly, it has a very high contrast in the sun (everything is visible), thirdly, it does not consume the battery (even the backlight mode of the additional screen uses a lot less charge than the main display). In general, the camera looks even more impressive with him. By the way - the backlight mode is turned on by turning the camera switch to the right. He himself then returns to its original position. Below is one of the most serious disadvantages associated with this lever.
Photo on Nikon D90
7 - 4.5 frames / second
Someone can say, they say, stamps from Kenon are shot at 10 frames per second, the same D3 shoots 8 frames per second, but what can I say, D300 with a battery pack squeezes 8 frames per second. And now the question is - why do you need it? Burst shooting is very rare. 3 frames per second is already quite enough, the rest is only for specific tasks. Therefore, almost 5 frames per second is a pretty strong point. Conduct an experiment - at what speed can you press the camera button in the frame shooting mode? The same 5 times plus or minus will come out. In any case, the Nikon D90 has a higher rate of fire than the new, very expensive professional Nikon D800which can shoot at speeds up to 4 fps.
Sample photo on Nikon D90
8. Comand mode flash and FP support
Classics from Nikon. No need to buy expensive flash units or synchronizers - just go to the bracketing \ flash menu and select flash control mode C. Set the channel and group and control external flash units, such as SB-600, SB-700, SB-900, SB-800 и SB-910. Also do not forget that you can configure the built-in flash so that it gives only commands and does not take part in the shooting itself.
Then the most interesting - quick sync mode... With external flashes, you can set any shutter speed, up to 1/4000. Those who have not encountered such a problem will not understand; who knows, they will be glad. Few cameras support this mode. Why you need this, you can find, for example, in my article - 'flash in the afternoon '.
Sample photo on Nikon D90
9. Rechargeable Li-ion Battery EN-EL3e
Great armor-piercing battery. Also suitable for D700, D200, D300(s) etc. Withstands flash without over 2000 frames. The instructions say that it can provide work for 1200 shots, a third made with the flash - somewhere it is. The number of shots is greatly affected by the type of lens (e.g. VR mode), delay modes of the main display, etc.
Sample photo on Nikon D90
10. Matrix cleaning system
A very useful thing. I recommend setting the cleaning when you turn off the camera, because when you turn it on, you often need to take pictures right away, and when you turn it off, let it clean for yourself. I advise you about cleaning the matrix read here.
Sample photo on Nikon D90
11. Bracketing exposure
Bracketing allows you to shoot without fear for the correct exposure. True, this requires additional time, battery wear and fast filling of the memory card. It is under bracketing 4.5 frames per second are useful. I recommend not much use bracketing, it’s better to adjust the camera (especially the amendment exposure) and make one frame in RAW, and then, if anything, hold it out programmatically rather than slam the shutter on expo.
Nature photo on Nikon D90
I would like to note a number of huge advantages: wA wide range of functions to improve the picture - noise reduction functions, D-lighting etc.
Nikon D90 photo
The disadvantages of the Nikon D90:
The strongest minus when working with the camera, I consider a strong return of the shutdown lever - that is, when you turn on the backlight of the additional screen, the lever moves back to the “ON” position, but its inertia is very strong and it goes further and turns off the camera (to the “OFF” position), therefore, you need to smoothly remove your finger after turning on the backlight of the additional screen. Very unpleasant stories are associated with this glitch, when at night, at important moments, the camera simply went out after setting the settings on the external display. Also, this switch is pretty loose, but it still works stably.
Also, after active work for a year, the rubber band, which is located to the right of the display, fell off, it expanded slightly and peeled off. I noticed that the rubber band covers the activity indicator of the memory card, that is, there is a fear of pushing the indicator deep into the camera and damaging it. The disease was treated by cutting off excess rubber and superglue. D90 got this disease from D200 and from D80. But, of course, I use my D90 camera a lot.
Exposure in 1/4000 second - if you haven’t understood yet, then when shooting with fast lenses starting with aperture of F / 1.8 and lower, you will miss the shutter speed, even at the lowest ISO.
Metering (exposure meter) does not work with non-chip lenses. It would be nothing, but this is just the camera and inferior to professional ones, such as D200 and older, almost any lens can be attached to them and the camera will operate in semi-automatic aperture priority mode or in good old manual mode. This really limits the operation of the camera with completely manual (without processor contacts) lenses, for example, Soviet ones - and you have to completely set all the settings “by eye”. Personally, I would very much like this function, since I am a fan of photographing with Soviet (and post-Soviet) optics.
Photo on Nikon D90
For 3d tracking focus, there are not enough points (focus areas), and indeed, not enough focus points for such a solid camera.
No one wants depth of field view button imaged space. I use it very rarely, for example, in macro photography, but usually in 99% it is not needed. A funny thing that I advise you to check is to raise the flash and press the depth of field button (it’s located below, under the lens mount) and you will see that for a couple of seconds the flash works as a flashlight (using the strobe effect)
I consider one more unnecessary button \ property focus point lock button. It was useful to me only a couple of times, when I very strongly brought the camera to my face and accidentally pressed the joystick, thereby changing the focus point, in other cases, the point retains its position. It would be better instead of it to set the lever for changing the metering (as in older models), and so you have to press the top button near the external display and turn one of the selectors.
Photo at Nikon D90
Brief comparison with Nikon D80:
D90 is a descendant Nikon D80, which has an increased rate of fire, a different type of sensor (CMOS VS CCD), a central multi selector button is added, there is a Live View function and the ability to record video, and the display is also enlarged. Battery, menu navigation, ergonomics and other important functions remained the same. If you Nikon D80 I do not recommend upgrading the Nikon D90, as the main functions of the cameras are the same.
A brief comparison of Nikon 90 with D300, D300s:
D300, D300s Are professional cameras from Nikon, and the amateur D90 cannot compete with them. IN D300, D300s stronger body excerpt up to 1/8000, a professional camera control interface, high rate of fire and the ability to work with manual lenses, this is where the main differences end. I do not recommend overpaying for D300, D300s unless you have to shoot 1000 frames every day.
A brief comparison of Nikon 90 with D7000:
D7000 surpasses even the Nikon D300 in a number of parameters, D300s, and especially Nikon D90, because as an upgrade I recommend only Nikon D7000 or already ff Nikon D700, D600, D800.
Photo at Nikon D90
Fit in the Nikon D90 Camera I think control with infrared remote Nikon ML-L3It costs a penny, and gives a lot of opportunities.
Attention: The final result of the image in the photograph depends very much on a large number of factors and the camera does not play the first role in this quantity, therefore, when photographing, remember - important how to take pictures, and don't try hard to find the best camera.
Sample Photos
The photos in the gallery below were shot on a budget lens Yongnuo 35mm f / 2 (model YN35mm F2N for Nikon cameras) and shown without treatment. Part of the photos is the conversion of the source RAW files by the original Nikon ViewNX-i utility without any additional adjustments, the other part is the original on-camera JPEG.
Download source files in format JPEG can at this link (114 files in the '.JPG' format, 735 MB).
More examples of photos, as well as source files, can be found in the reviews:
- YONGNUO LENS YN50mm F1.4N E
- Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-55mm 1: 3.5-5.6GII ED SWM Aspherical
- Nikon N AF-S Nikkor 58mm 1: 1.4G Nano Crystal Coat SWM Aspherical
- YONGNUO 50mm 1: 1.8 (YN50mm F1.8N)
- Tokina VCM-S AT-X PRO SD 70-200 F4 (IF) FX N / AIS
- Nikon AF Nikkor 28mm 1: 2.8 (MKI)
- Tokina AT-X 80-400mm 1: 4.5-5.6 (AT-X 840 AF-II)
- Nikon AF Nikkor 20mm 1: 2.8D
- Tamron PZD Di 28-300mm F / 3.5-6.3 Piezo Drive VC Model A010
- Nikon Zoom-NIKKOR 80-200mm 1: 4.5 (AI, MKII)
- SIGMA ZOOM 28-105mm D 1: 2.8-4 DG
- Nikon AF Nikkor 28-70mm 1: 3.5-4.5 (MKI)
- Sigma 135-400mm 1: 4.5-5.6 D APO
- Tokina SD 24-70 F2.8 (IF) FX AT-X PRO Aspherical
- Nikon AF Micro Nikkor 105mm 1: 2.8 (MKI)
- Tamron 16-300mm F / 3.5-6.3 Di II PZD VC Model B016
- Tokina 107 Fisheye 10-17mm F3.5-4.5 DX AT-X Internal Focus
- INDUSTRAR 22U-1 1: 3,5 F = 50mm P
- LOMO RO501-1 F = 100 1: 2
- Nikon ED AF Nikkor 80-200mm 1: 2.8 (MKI)
- LOMO RO500-1 F = 90 1: 2
- Tokina AT-X PRO AF 28-70mm 1: 2.6-2.8 (Tokina AT-X 270 AF PRO)
- Nikon Lens Series E Zoom 75-150mm 1: 3.5 (MKII)
- Sigma DC 17-70mm 1: 2.8-4.5 MACRO HSM
- Tokina AT-X PRO SD 11-20 F2.8 (IF) DX ASPHERICAL
- SIGMA ZOOM 55-200mm 1: 4-5.6 DC HSM
- TAIR-3 4,5 / 300A
- Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 55-200mm 1: 4-5.6GII ED VR II
- QUANTARAY TECH-10 NF AF MULTI-COATED 1: 4-5.6 f = 75-300mm
- Nikon NIKKOR-SC Auto 1: 1.2 f = 55mm
- Sigma DC 18-50mm 1: 2.8 EX MACRO HSM
- Tamron AF Aspherical 28-80mm 1: 3.5-5.6 177D
- Quantaray 70-300mm 1: 4-5.6 D LDO MACRO for Nikon AF, MACRO (200-300)
- SIGMA ZOOM 28-200mmD 1: 3.8-5.6 UC Aspherical
- Quantaray 70-300mm 1: 4-5.6 D LDO MACRO for Nikon AF
- MC PANCOLAR 1,8 / 50 CARL ZEISS JENA DDR
- YONGNUO 40mm 1: 2.8 (YN40mm F2.8N)
- Sigma 70-300mm D 1: 4-5.6 APO DG
- TOKINA AF 70-210 1: 4-5.6
- Sigma 70-300mm 1: 4-5.6 D DL MACRO SUPER
- Quantaray for Nikon AF 28-300mm 1: 3.5-6.3 LDO Multi-Coated (28-300mmD Ashperical IF)
- SIGMA ZOOM 28-300mm 1: 3.5-6.3 DG MACRO
- YONGNUO LENS YN 14mm F 2.8 N
- Tamron AF Tele-Macro 70-210mm 1: 4-5.6 158DN
- I-26m-U 2,8 / 52
- Sigma Zoom DC 18-200mm 1: 3.5-6.3 II HSM OS
- Yongnuo YN 85mm F1.8N
- INDUSTRAR 22U-1 1: 3,5 F = 50mm P
- SIGMA ZOOM 18-50mm 1: 2.8 EX DC (D)
- Nikon IX-NIKKOR 60-180mm 1: 4-5.6
- YONGNUO LENS 100mm 1: 2 (YN100mm F2N, for Nikon)
- PROMASTER DIGITAL XR EDO AF Aspherical LD (IF) 18-200mm 1: 3.5-6.3 Macro
- Tamron Di II SP 17-50mm F / 2.8 VC
- MC HELIOS-44M-4 58mm 1: 2
- YONGNUO 35mm 1: 2 (YN35mm F2N)
- Sigma DC 17-70mm 1: 2.8-4.5
- Nikon ED AF-S Nikkor 300mm 1: 4D IF Silent Wave Motor
- Yongnuo YN60mm F2NE MF MACRO
Prices for modern Nikon cameras in popular stores can look at this link.
Video review, retrospective
Comments on this post do not require registration. Anyone can leave a comment. Many different photographic equipment can be found on AliExpress.
Conclusions:
In general, the Nikon D90 camera is simply lovely, a wide range of functions will allow both professional and amateur to work. The speed of work and the quality of the picture are very pleasing.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram
I buy myself a Nikon d90 used ... and here's the trouble - it's already the second camera with a 30-second exposure time and a maximum ISO that shows a New Year tree (all in colored dots). these are broken pixels if I'm not confused = (((or am I not checking correctly ???
At maximum ISO and such a slow shutter speed, this is acceptable. Do not use the maximum ISO Hi1 when testing. It can be both hot and broken pixels.
I have here such an interesting question, however, I would like to know in general whether this is normal !!
When I put the battery on charging, why does it start to smell when you naturally take it in your hands ... is it normal? It's new ... maybe that's why.
If it smells like a woman's perfume, it's strange. If it is burned, or with plastic, it may pass over time.
It would be better if he smelled of female perfume)
I didn’t want to write the word “stinks”! But thanks for understanding and so)
Arkady, thanks for the interesting article. I have an Olympys u-520 I want to change it, because it does not suit the noise of the matrix. And now I am faced with the choice of D-90 or D7000. The camera is bought for yourself, and not with the goal of making money. Advise how to be.
Thank you very much in advance. Sincerely.
In order to make money - D7000 definitely :)
You do not quite understand :) NOT for the purpose of earning, but for yourself. The question may not have been asked correctly. Does it make sense to change the Olympus e520, but the D90? Or if you change it to the D7000.
Thanks for the prompt answers.
Yes, I was wrong. If for yourself, then D90, it is much better than Olympus e520, first of all - convenience.
Arkady, thank you very much :) I went to the store for the D90.
It's my pleasure
In short, I have a problem ... I don't have any experience in photography (all the time before this photo of numbers. I decided that I wanted a good camera. (By the way, why carcasses?) Of course, the whole Internet talks about d90 and everyone starts with it. In general, I love photography ... I always carry a fotik with me) my friend advised me to see d3100) So I got here I want to listen to your thoughts on what and how to choose if I'm new in this business.
The D90 and D3100 have a different user class, so the D90 is an advanced amateur camera with the makings of professional functions (fast synchronization, Nikon CLS with flashes, an additional display, a focus motor, a robust body and an intelligent control system). The D3100 is an amateur camera that simply allows you to take good pictures without troubles, it lacks the above mentioned advantages, but there is autofocus when shooting video, it is easier and more suitable for ordinary fans who do not plan their development in photography.
If we restrict ourselves to the proposal: then D90 for growth, D3100 - pressed and removed.
But what about the d5100? I don’t need the video at all, I am a supporter of the fact that there should be a camera for the video) and is it possible to set up the d90 so-so that I also just pressed and removed it? or maybe there is generally an alternative to all of this, of course, I want a semi-professional camera because I'm interested in delving into all of this. but in the same price category as the d90.
D5100 is the same level as 3100, only newer. There are few alternatives from Nikon, D90, D7000, D300, D300s. D90 is the same - you can press and remove, but the potential is not limited to this. If you delve into, then take D90, D7000, you will not regret it. About the categories of cameras, I have a simple table https://radojuva.com.ua/2012/02/evolyuciya-kamer-nikon/ by which everything is clear, what level is the camera
thank you very much I will definitely unsubscribe here when I decide what thread ... but I want a fotik with great potential and understandable to use ...
I read the reviews here, and I thought I miscalculated when I took the nikon d3100. It was necessary to collect money for d90. Since I plan to do photography seriously ...
Imagine that if you achieve masterpiece shots on the D3100, then how can your pictures be further improved on a more advanced camera.
Congratulate me, today I became the proud owner of the D90.
I’ve been smoking the manual for the third hour, how can I not figure out how to set it up so that the display turns on after the shot and shows the current settings, or is it not possible to do this?
P.S. Compared to Olympus, the D90 D90 doesn’t make noise at all :)
Congratulations. Most likely, this will not work, for there is an additional monochrome display that constantly shows the current settings, and for a thoughtful viewing of the settings there is an INFO button
Need your advice
It is possible to choose a camera D90 (18-105) or D5100 (18-105) The carcass is taken up
Earning in the photo is not planned, only for yourself. The D3000 was very pleased with the device, but it outgrew
I him
Thank you in advance, and for your work on educational program
If the D3000 has outgrown, then there is no sense in taking the D5100. I would take the D90, ergonomics, a bunch of useful functions (quick synchronization, Nikon CLS flash controls, additional display)
Arkady, sorry for the offtopic. I have a d90, af-s nikkor 50 mm 1: 1.8 g and a tripod. I dabble with a self-portrait and in any way autofocus does not work. I do it with a delay in the descent, before that I focus on the wall, i.e. the face is then 25 cm closer to the camera and out of focus. Is there only one way out: to put someone in my place, focus and then change? I thought that the live view mode with autofocus on the face would solve the problem, but the thing is that you need to keep your finger on the shutter when focusing, i.e. you still can’t do without a partner ((((ML-L3 will arrive soon, it seems he will not help either. I don’t understand what it is for if there is a self-timer function with a timer? Thanks in advance!
It is very strange to hear from you that you ordered a remote control and do not even know what it is for. I advise you to look at my article about ML = L3, everything is pretty clearly written there. This remote control will help to cope with the self-portrait, since with it the camera will do auto focus.
Thank you, really, if I read your article, the question would be removed. Minus the translator's instructions for the camera: p. 68. Step 3. “… if autofocus is enabled, the camera's shutter-release button can be used to set focus, but the shutter-release button on the remote control CAN ONLY BE USED TO RELEASE THE SHUTTER”. That's why I was surprised, why then the remote control?
Hello! Loved your reviews. I read almost everything. I’ve been photographing for a long time, from the beginning with a mobile phone, fortunately modern phones give good results. Over time, I realized that something was picking me up. I started shooting on Kiev-19. But I realized that only with the CZK will I achieve the desired result. He began to choose a camera and came to the Nikon D90. I tried all of the Canona i Nikona CZK Junior series: 1000, 1100, 500, 550, 600, 3000, 3100, 5000, 5100, all the cameras were inconvenient to operate and hold. accidentally stumbled upon the D90, although they told me that it was no longer for sale, I really liked it and ideally lay down in my hand. I want to ask you if this camera is suitable, as an amateur, which one would you recommend to consider the camera and what kind of lenses you would recommend for macro and landscapes. And another question, how do you look at Sony cameras?
I look at all cameras in the same way - as a means of obtaining pictures. D90 is an advanced amateur model, it will last for a year of active development. I advise you to look at Nikon D7000, Canon 7D. What price range of lenses is acceptable for you?
Unfortunately, these cameras are very expensive for me, I can hardly reach the D90 anyway.
Since after buying a camera I will not have any money left, I just want to know so that you would advise me to know what to strive for and what to collect. Now I have one lens - Helios 81 N.
For what tasks, write exactly what you want and what you need. In general, I recommend for the very beginning and for growth - d80 (about 400 US dollars) and then you can hang whatever you want on it.
Thank you very much!
Hi Arkady! I want to take this opportunity once again and thank you for your titanic work! Everything you do is incredibly interesting and useful!
Arkady, such a question, I’m now on a tour of Italy, a huge number of stories and topics, but simply there’s no way to look at the manual.
Sometimes I come across the need to “freeze” the focus — that is, hover over one object and then move.
Autofocus is bothering me.
How to make autofocus lock with a half-pressed button?
Thank you so much!
In my article on Autofocus, it describes which modes continue to be monitored, and which stop focusing when a successful aim is achieved. Try AF-S mode, you can also program the AE-l / AF-L button to lock focus (the button is called Auto Focul Loced).
The problem is solved, thanks to your advice.
Thank you very much.
The chase is a wonderful camera, great shots, working with the camera is fast and convenient.
There were practically no personnel when I did not have time to react and rebuild.
About 400 shots were taken today, about 10 pictures were erased, another three or four unsharp, but valuable for another reason. Thanks.
Happy for you. The D90 is a really good camera.
Hello. Thank you for such a review that made me think. Skill is not certainty. I want to buy the first DSLR. And at first I thought to take myself a d5100 with a whale lens 18-55. But after I read several articles on the site, I thought about acquiring the d90 from 18-105. If I purchase d90 it will be difficult to deal with him ?? there is no guide on it (as in 5100). I’m also thinking about purchasing a Helios 44m-4 lens from you. What will be its price ?? And is there a big difference between the lenses 18-55 and 18-105 in the quality of the picture. I plan to shoot everything in macro and family and nature.
It will not be difficult to understand, there are also clues there (when you click on the button with a question mark, all the necessary information is displayed). The difference in quality is different for different tasks. Find out about Helios-44 from Sasha in the manual optics section.
I have a D90 a little over a month. This is my first DSLR. I’m very pleased, although the choice was difficult, because hunting was more abrupt and cheaper, I took it for myself. I read articles, reviews and came to the conclusion that the D90 is enough for me. New models come out almost every year and it makes no sense to chase after them, because a good violinist buys a new violin every day, you need to learn how to use what is already there. Thanks so much for the article.
How glad I am that I found this article, almost a book with all the recommendations, only in a language understandable for beginners in this business! Arkady, thank you very much ... Just no words, how much work, how much attention)))) This is the first good camera that I want to buy for myself after the usual, as they call it * soap dishes *), Tell me, for the first time, for the period of familiarization with camera, can I take it in a complete set - body and lens? I just read about the fact that the carcass is cheap, and you need to take an expensive lens! But finance is only 30 rubles (((If the carcass is about 000 thousand, then for 20 is it possible to buy a lens better than the one that comes with the kit? nftusj8989@mail.ru thank you
For starters, the best option would be the D90 + 18-105VR lens. This is enough for a long period of work with the camera.
Arkady Shapovalu respect and respect !!!
Arkady, tell a newbie for God's sake. I want to buy a D90 camera, found a store where to buy (an official dealer), but I am plagued by vague doubts - I took a dozen photos and when viewed on the monitor it turned out that they were all cloudy, I took pictures on the machine and in M mode, all the same. What would you advise a beginner to do in this matter in a situation that sleeps and sees this camera? The first mirror will be. There are only 2 devices in the store, one on the windscreen, which you don't want to take for obvious reasons, the second one is so “muddy”. Or maybe you spit on this dealer's office and go, say, to m. Video to buy it, or you shouldn't even go to this store? Even when viewing photographs taken with a "cloudy" device, 1 hot pixel was found, but it is practically invisible without magnification, and it seems to have taken a photo on ISO 3200 .. I will be grateful to you for a lot!
Of course, I’m not such an experienced photographer as Arkady, but still I think that for the first DSLR cameras of the initial line d40, d3000, d3100, well or d5100
Any camera that can afford it will do.
At ISO 3200 it is very difficult to distinguish a hot pixel from normal noise without a special. test. Turbid - maybe because of focus? Take it, you can return it within 14 days (that's exactly what we have in Ukraine)
Well, hot or not, but the point of blue was visible, and the noise was also, but it was a little noticeable) And about the shops, where to buy, you will not say anything? Thank you Arkady) Still give hard-earned money for suspicion ..
I can’t say about the store
I personally bought my camera in an outlet, and, moreover, it is 1000s malm cheaper than in Comfi and Foxtrot, with them at the reception point I checked for “broken” pixels, the operation of the stub.
PS Not advertising just your experience
thanks anyway Arkady.
Congratulate me! I became the proud owner of nikon D90 18-105 vr kit)))
Congratulations. In a couple of days we are waiting for impressions!