I have used several Nikon D90 cameras at various times. In whatever conditions they were not: I constantly carried cameras with me in hikes, reinstalled lenses millions of times, in the rain, in the cold and on hot days - but the cameras worked like clockwork. Of course, I understand that good copies of Nikon D90 may have come across, but still, many years of trouble-free operation and mileage of over 130.000 (one hundred thirty thousand) of one copy and over 250.000 (a quarter of a million) of the second copy only gives rise to positive reviews.
Review of the Nikon D90. View of the camera itself.
To fully understand and understand the camera, you just need read the instructionsIt’s long and boring, but I don’t see another way. The quality of the pictures very much depends on the lens and the methodology of your shooting, as well as image control mode, therefore, to say that the camera shoots better or worse is blasphemy, we can only talk about its ergonomics, technical characteristics and direct work experience. Always remember that important how to take pictures, but not by what means.
Sample photos on Nikon D90
And so, the camera belongs to the class of digital mirrors mid-range cameras... The Nikon D90 is often said to be an advanced amateur camera. Therefore, please note that this is not a professional camera, as they often write on the Internet (especially in online stores), professional cameras - is D300(s) D200, D700, D3(x, s), D4, D800(E) - therefore, you need to understand that the device is more aimed at amateurs than at professionals. The main feature of the camera is that the set of functions allows you to use the Nikon D90 just as well as professional technology, but with some limitations.
Sample photo on Nikon D90
The main parameters of Nikon D90, which are worth paying attention to
1. Live view
2. HD video 1280 * 720 24k \ s
3MP CMOS sensor
4. Aluminum-magnesium case with a bunch of buttons
5. Built-in autofocus drive
6. Additional screen
7. 4.5 frames \ second
8. Flash operating in Comand mode and FP mode
9. Lithium-ion battery
10. Matrix cleaning system
11. Bracketing exposure
Example photo on Nikon D90
Now let's go through each item from a practical point of view.
1. Live View. Under live view it means “Live View” and in Nikon D90 it is quite a strong point.
First: made for the D90 very large screen (920.000 points - the same as in professional D3, D700) from which you can not tear yourself away. He even knows how to show slide shows to music!
Secondly: very convenient button to switch to live view - just clicked and the incomprehensible digital SLR turned into an ordinary soap box (useful for people who just switched to SLR cameras and just can't figure out what to see through the viewfinder).
Third: this mode allows clearly control focus at any point in your frame. Let’s take a closer look - when sighting you can select any area in the frame with the joystick and zoom it in on a scale of 1 to 1 - that is, select any point for focusing. This mode is indispensable when working with manual (non-autofocus lenses) and a tripod.
True, it takes time to get used to the work of the mirror, which adds unnecessary sounds and clinks when working. The mirror and shutter clicks when Live View is enabled, and when shooting, they click twice. It may seem that the camera is taking extra frames. A huge disadvantage of this mode is that autofocus works very, very slowly, and in video mode it does not work at all.
Photo on Nikon D90
2.HD video 1280 * 720 24k \ s without autofocus - absolutely unnecessary thing for a photographer
Why not necessary - because who will watch the video without autofocus? Okay, you can still take photos somehow in manual focus mode, but video with manual focus, when the scene changes at the speed of light, is a very difficult task. I recommend shooting video only with a tripod. A couple of times I shot a video with my hands - you can shoot, but again, it's very, very difficult. One more camera - Nikon D5000 - has video without autofocus.
The video itself is quite solid, in Motion JPEG format - which means that it “weighs” a lot. I advise you to immediately distill it into any of the popular formats after shooting - save a lot of disk space. Also, I advise you to block the exposure when shooting a video so that there are no tonal differences when changing the composition in the frame. Another serious problem with video is limiting the duration of the clip in 1280*720 up to 5 minutes. On the one hand, 5 minutes is quite enough to create short video selections, but I had to film my friend's performance once, and the 5 minute limit made the process very difficult. Also, after several 5-minute clips, the camera starts shooting clips up to 30 seconds long and turns off automatically, most likely due to the sensor overheating. The Nikon D90 is the first camera from Nikon with the ability to shoot video, so you shouldn't ask more of it. If you need a Nikon camera that shoots videos well and has automatic focus, then I advise you to look at the model Nikon D3100, Nikon D5100 и Nikon D7000.
Photo on the Nikon D90. At high ISO.
3MP CMOS - just right
Why more? The more pixels - the higher the density and there may be more noise, due to the fact that the matrix cell is smaller and smaller - which means that it can catch less light. I advise you to read my article Battle of Megapixels.
The matrix is excellent. Of course, I already see noise at ISO 400, but at ISO 1600 they are still quite tolerant.
A very important point I noticed when working at high ISO, that the noise increases sharply after ISO 2500, that is, at ISO 2500 you can still squeeze something out, but then the quality of the photo drops dramatically. I recommend shooting at the proven ISO 200 and not raising ISO above 1600. ISO LO-1 (100) should be enabled only on a bright day, when you need to get some kind of portrait with an open aperture in order to keep within the shutter speed of 1 / 4000s. The values of ISO Hi1, Hi0.3, Hi0.7 are a kind of software wrapping of ISO, at such values it is practically impossible to get a low-noise picture.
Sample photo on Nikon D90
4. Aluminum-magnesium housing (part)
In the introduction, I wrote that I constantly use, drag, ride with this camera and it feels quite adequately. Aluminum-magnesium alloy (although I did not find such information on the manufacturer’s website, but by weight, it’s not plastic) and one rubber insert, make the camera very practical, well-knocked down and provide excellent weight balance with different lenses. Perhaps for little hands it will be a little bit wrong, but for the serious hand of the photographer it’s just lovely.
On the body is a whole bunch of buttons. In the camera - the more the better. You can get quick access to all the basic functions and not scroll through the huge menu. I configured the programmable button to change the type of focus.
Wildlife Photo on Nikon D90
5. Built-in autofocus drive
A panacea for saving money and a panacea for professionals. The Nikon D90 camera has a built-in auto focus motor (screwdriver) for working with lenses marked AF. This allows you to use optics without a built-in focusing system (which means that you can use any autofocus lenses). Usually such optics are cheaper, for example, you can buy Nikon 50mm F1.8D AF for only $ 150 and feel like a real professional. Also, a huge portion of professional optics simply go without an auto focus motor. For example, there is simply no analogue for the Nikkor 135 DC with a built-in autofocus motor. More details about the compatibility of Nikon lenses in my article - Lens difference.
Photo on Nikon D90
6. Optional monochronous screen.
Recently I read on the Internet that the small monochrome display on the D90 is archaism, I was very surprised by this. In fact, it is not, the additional display is very good ergonomics and saves time, battery power, unnecessary movements. Let me explain - the display is always on top and you do not need to turn the camera upside down to look at the main display, secondly, it has a very high contrast in the sun (everything is visible), thirdly, it does not consume the battery (even the backlight mode of the additional screen uses a lot less charge than the main display). In general, the camera looks even more impressive with him. By the way - the backlight mode is turned on by turning the camera switch to the right. He himself then returns to its original position. Below is one of the most serious disadvantages associated with this lever.
Photo on Nikon D90
7 - 4.5 frames / second
Someone can say, they say, stamps from Kenon are shot at 10 frames per second, the same D3 shoots 8 frames per second, but what can I say, D300 with a battery pack squeezes 8 frames per second. And now the question is - why do you need it? Burst shooting is very rare. 3 frames per second is already quite enough, the rest is only for specific tasks. Therefore, almost 5 frames per second is a pretty strong point. Conduct an experiment - at what speed can you press the camera button in the frame shooting mode? The same 5 times plus or minus will come out. In any case, the Nikon D90 has a higher rate of fire than the new, very expensive professional Nikon D800which can shoot at speeds up to 4 fps.
Sample photo on Nikon D90
8. Comand mode flash and FP support
Classics from Nikon. No need to buy expensive flash units or synchronizers - just go to the bracketing \ flash menu and select flash control mode C. Set the channel and group and control external flash units, such as SB-600, SB-700, SB-900, SB-800 и SB-910. Also do not forget that you can configure the built-in flash so that it gives only commands and does not take part in the shooting itself.
Then the most interesting - quick sync mode... With external flashes, you can set any shutter speed, up to 1/4000. Those who have not encountered such a problem will not understand; who knows, they will be glad. Few cameras support this mode. Why you need this, you can find, for example, in my article - 'flash in the afternoon '.
Sample photo on Nikon D90
9. Rechargeable Li-ion Battery EN-EL3e
Great armor-piercing battery. Also suitable for D700, D200, D300(s) etc. Withstands flash without over 2000 frames. The instructions say that it can provide work for 1200 shots, a third made with the flash - somewhere it is. The number of shots is greatly affected by the type of lens (e.g. VR mode), delay modes of the main display, etc.
Sample photo on Nikon D90
10. Matrix cleaning system
A very useful thing. I recommend setting the cleaning when you turn off the camera, because when you turn it on, you often need to take pictures right away, and when you turn it off, let it clean for yourself. I advise you about cleaning the matrix read here.
Sample photo on Nikon D90
11. Bracketing exposure
Bracketing allows you to shoot without fear for the correct exposure. True, this requires additional time, battery wear and fast filling of the memory card. It is under bracketing 4.5 frames per second are useful. I recommend not much use bracketing, it’s better to adjust the camera (especially the amendment exposure) and make one frame in RAW, and then, if anything, hold it out programmatically rather than slam the shutter on expo.
Nature photo on Nikon D90
I would like to note a number of huge advantages: wA wide range of functions to improve the picture - noise reduction functions, D-lighting etc.
Nikon D90 photo
The disadvantages of the Nikon D90:
The strongest minus when working with the camera, I consider a strong return of the shutdown lever - that is, when you turn on the backlight of the additional screen, the lever moves back to the “ON” position, but its inertia is very strong and it goes further and turns off the camera (to the “OFF” position), therefore, you need to smoothly remove your finger after turning on the backlight of the additional screen. Very unpleasant stories are associated with this glitch, when at night, at important moments, the camera simply went out after setting the settings on the external display. Also, this switch is pretty loose, but it still works stably.
Also, after active work for a year, the rubber band, which is located to the right of the display, fell off, it expanded slightly and peeled off. I noticed that the rubber band covers the activity indicator of the memory card, that is, there is a fear of pushing the indicator deep into the camera and damaging it. The disease was treated by cutting off excess rubber and superglue. D90 got this disease from D200 and from D80. But, of course, I use my D90 camera a lot.
Exposure in 1/4000 second - if you haven’t understood yet, then when shooting with fast lenses starting with aperture of F / 1.8 and lower, you will miss the shutter speed, even at the lowest ISO.
Metering (exposure meter) does not work with non-chip lenses. It would be nothing, but this is just the camera and inferior to professional ones, such as D200 and older, almost any lens can be attached to them and the camera will operate in semi-automatic aperture priority mode or in good old manual mode. This really limits the operation of the camera with completely manual (without processor contacts) lenses, for example, Soviet ones - and you have to completely set all the settings “by eye”. Personally, I would very much like this function, since I am a fan of photographing with Soviet (and post-Soviet) optics.
Photo on Nikon D90
For 3d tracking focus, there are not enough points (focus areas), and indeed, not enough focus points for such a solid camera.
No one wants depth of field view button imaged space. I use it very rarely, for example, in macro photography, but usually in 99% it is not needed. A funny thing that I advise you to check is to raise the flash and press the depth of field button (it’s located below, under the lens mount) and you will see that for a couple of seconds the flash works as a flashlight (using the strobe effect)
I consider one more unnecessary button \ property focus point lock button. It was useful to me only a couple of times, when I very strongly brought the camera to my face and accidentally pressed the joystick, thereby changing the focus point, in other cases, the point retains its position. It would be better instead of it to set the lever for changing the metering (as in older models), and so you have to press the top button near the external display and turn one of the selectors.
Photo at Nikon D90
Brief comparison with Nikon D80:
D90 is a descendant Nikon D80, which has an increased rate of fire, a different type of sensor (CMOS VS CCD), a central multi selector button is added, there is a Live View function and the ability to record video, and the display is also enlarged. Battery, menu navigation, ergonomics and other important functions remained the same. If you Nikon D80 I do not recommend upgrading the Nikon D90, as the main functions of the cameras are the same.
A brief comparison of Nikon 90 with D300, D300s:
D300, D300s Are professional cameras from Nikon, and the amateur D90 cannot compete with them. IN D300, D300s stronger body excerpt up to 1/8000, a professional camera control interface, high rate of fire and the ability to work with manual lenses, this is where the main differences end. I do not recommend overpaying for D300, D300s unless you have to shoot 1000 frames every day.
A brief comparison of Nikon 90 with D7000:
D7000 surpasses even the Nikon D300 in a number of parameters, D300s, and especially Nikon D90, because as an upgrade I recommend only Nikon D7000 or already ff Nikon D700, D600, D800.
Photo at Nikon D90
Fit in the Nikon D90 Camera I think control with infrared remote Nikon ML-L3It costs a penny, and gives a lot of opportunities.
Attention: The final result of the image in the photograph depends very much on a large number of factors and the camera does not play the first role in this quantity, therefore, when photographing, remember - important how to take pictures, and don't try hard to find the best camera.
Sample Photos
The photos in the gallery below were shot on a budget lens Yongnuo 35mm f / 2 (model YN35mm F2N for Nikon cameras) and shown without treatment. Part of the photos is the conversion of the source RAW files by the original Nikon ViewNX-i utility without any additional adjustments, the other part is the original on-camera JPEG.
Download source files in format JPEG can at this link (114 files in the '.JPG' format, 735 MB).
More examples of photos, as well as source files, can be found in the reviews:
- YONGNUO LENS YN50mm F1.4N E
- Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-55mm 1: 3.5-5.6GII ED SWM Aspherical
- Nikon N AF-S Nikkor 58mm 1: 1.4G Nano Crystal Coat SWM Aspherical
- YONGNUO 50mm 1: 1.8 (YN50mm F1.8N)
- Tokina VCM-S AT-X PRO SD 70-200 F4 (IF) FX N / AIS
- Nikon AF Nikkor 28mm 1: 2.8 (MKI)
- Tokina AT-X 80-400mm 1: 4.5-5.6 (AT-X 840 AF-II)
- Nikon AF Nikkor 20mm 1: 2.8D
- Tamron PZD Di 28-300mm F / 3.5-6.3 Piezo Drive VC Model A010
- Nikon Zoom-NIKKOR 80-200mm 1: 4.5 (AI, MKII)
- SIGMA ZOOM 28-105mm D 1: 2.8-4 DG
- Nikon AF Nikkor 28-70mm 1: 3.5-4.5 (MKI)
- Sigma 135-400mm 1: 4.5-5.6 D APO
- Tokina SD 24-70 F2.8 (IF) FX AT-X PRO Aspherical
- Nikon AF Micro Nikkor 105mm 1: 2.8 (MKI)
- Tamron 16-300mm F / 3.5-6.3 Di II PZD VC Model B016
- Tokina 107 Fisheye 10-17mm F3.5-4.5 DX AT-X Internal Focus
- INDUSTRAR 22U-1 1: 3,5 F = 50mm P
- LOMO RO501-1 F = 100 1: 2
- Nikon ED AF Nikkor 80-200mm 1: 2.8 (MKI)
- LOMO RO500-1 F = 90 1: 2
- Tokina AT-X PRO AF 28-70mm 1: 2.6-2.8 (Tokina AT-X 270 AF PRO)
- Nikon Lens Series E Zoom 75-150mm 1: 3.5 (MKII)
- Sigma DC 17-70mm 1: 2.8-4.5 MACRO HSM
- Tokina AT-X PRO SD 11-20 F2.8 (IF) DX ASPHERICAL
- SIGMA ZOOM 55-200mm 1: 4-5.6 DC HSM
- TAIR-3 4,5 / 300A
- Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 55-200mm 1: 4-5.6GII ED VR II
- QUANTARAY TECH-10 NF AF MULTI-COATED 1: 4-5.6 f = 75-300mm
- Nikon NIKKOR-SC Auto 1: 1.2 f = 55mm
- Sigma DC 18-50mm 1: 2.8 EX MACRO HSM
- Tamron AF Aspherical 28-80mm 1: 3.5-5.6 177D
- Quantaray 70-300mm 1: 4-5.6 D LDO MACRO for Nikon AF, MACRO (200-300)
- SIGMA ZOOM 28-200mmD 1: 3.8-5.6 UC Aspherical
- Quantaray 70-300mm 1: 4-5.6 D LDO MACRO for Nikon AF
- MC PANCOLAR 1,8 / 50 CARL ZEISS JENA DDR
- YONGNUO 40mm 1: 2.8 (YN40mm F2.8N)
- Sigma 70-300mm D 1: 4-5.6 APO DG
- TOKINA AF 70-210 1: 4-5.6
- Sigma 70-300mm 1: 4-5.6 D DL MACRO SUPER
- Quantaray for Nikon AF 28-300mm 1: 3.5-6.3 LDO Multi-Coated (28-300mmD Ashperical IF)
- SIGMA ZOOM 28-300mm 1: 3.5-6.3 DG MACRO
- YONGNUO LENS YN 14mm F 2.8 N
- Tamron AF Tele-Macro 70-210mm 1: 4-5.6 158DN
- I-26m-U 2,8 / 52
- Sigma Zoom DC 18-200mm 1: 3.5-6.3 II HSM OS
- Yongnuo YN 85mm F1.8N
- INDUSTRAR 22U-1 1: 3,5 F = 50mm P
- SIGMA ZOOM 18-50mm 1: 2.8 EX DC (D)
- Nikon IX-NIKKOR 60-180mm 1: 4-5.6
- YONGNUO LENS 100mm 1: 2 (YN100mm F2N, for Nikon)
- PROMASTER DIGITAL XR EDO AF Aspherical LD (IF) 18-200mm 1: 3.5-6.3 Macro
- Tamron Di II SP 17-50mm F / 2.8 VC
- MC HELIOS-44M-4 58mm 1: 2
- YONGNUO 35mm 1: 2 (YN35mm F2N)
- Sigma DC 17-70mm 1: 2.8-4.5
- Nikon ED AF-S Nikkor 300mm 1: 4D IF Silent Wave Motor
- Yongnuo YN60mm F2NE MF MACRO
Prices for modern Nikon cameras in popular stores can look at this link.
Video review, retrospective
Comments on this post do not require registration. Anyone can leave a comment. Many different photographic equipment can be found on AliExpress.
Conclusions:
In general, the Nikon D90 camera is simply lovely, a wide range of functions will allow both professional and amateur to work. The speed of work and the quality of the picture are very pleasing.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram
I use it so far only with a whale 18-55 without WR, but so far I’m not very satisfied with the TV set
, a matter of time.
Arkady, please advise a good Soviet fifty kopeck suitable for nikon d90
This is the Nikon 50mm f / 1.8G AF-S Nikkor https://radojuva.com.ua/2012/02/obzor-nikon-50-mm-f-1-8-g-af-s/
Why G? there is also D, it is cheaper ...
desheva fish, trash yushka
Between them, the difference is only in the presence of a focusing motor and that’s all.
yes, but an aspherical element, that’s right, the glass is not needed
“Shutter” you are wrong, take a hasselblad and add curved hands to it and see what happens, and those pictures that you shoot at 50mm G or D and look at them through the monitor, and at best, print on photographic paper in the studio - the difference is not you will see, perhaps under a microscope, and in photography, plot and composition are much more important, and technology should only help the photographer in this and not give a reason to brag to each other about the coolness and cost of the equipment. http://pavelbogdanov.ru/05-2010/ken-rockwell.html
G has a significantly better picture.
but yes, D is cheaper.
you are right about photographic art, Vladimir, of course, but I personally consider the half a half g version to be the best from Nikkor, I have not encountered hasselblades, even with equal hands, I can’t say anything about this.
Arkady, I’m taking pictures for 4 YEARS SONY DSC-H50 (Japan). I love my camera. It has excellent optics, excellent zoom, but I really need to torment myself with the settings in order to make an excellent photo in my opinion (I am very picky about the pictures, etc.) K. I still can’t make friends with Photoshop). I have long dreamed of buying a camera with interchangeable lenses, and NIKON D90 caught fire, went to the store today. I understand that you cannot know about all the cameras, but still advise whether I should change the camera (at the initial stage ne I do not plan to change the lens kitovsky) Please accept my apologies for the confusion
I'm not Arkady, but I'll try to formulate briefly ...
Firstly, the question of changing the camera is the question “why the previous one does not suit you?”.
those. if you just need the ability to have different optics for different tasks and “like an image on a supezum” does not suit you - then yes, it is justified.
If you “just want another camera, because you want to grow,” then ... is also justified. )))
...
as for the "whale lens" - hammer right away. BO buying a D90 + 18-55 lens is somehow not serious (it is better to take a carcass + fifty dollars or 85 (if for portraits)). if your whale is supposed to be 18-105 - this is more meaningful, quite a good wagon to start (and continue).
However, consider this. D90 for female hands, with a rather large lens (any fix larger than 35 mm and zoom larger than 18-55) is heavy. For the sake of interest, you can take a D90 with an 18-105 objective in the store, ask to attach a flash and walk for 15 minutes on half-extended arms. Usually girls change their minds after this))).
Although someone likes it.
however, especially taking into account the limited budget, the equipment as an “initial DSLR” from the D3100 or D5100 (if you plan to shoot different videos) with a whale lens or fifty dollars to them in a pile will be more convenient for you (especially since the image quality on them is the same and determined by optics rather than carcass). Their only difference is a slight limitation in functionality and the fact that the D90 is placed on the buttons - at 3100/3200/5100/5200 is partially hidden in the menu, and it takes a couple of seconds longer to configure.
...
As for the D90, when buying it, in modern conditions I would recommend looking for it with a small hand (5-30 thousand frames), since there are enough of them in the secondary market and in good condition. This will allow you to significantly (from 10 to 14 thousand rubles per carcass in good condition) save money, not really losing in “quality ...
IF the budget is not too squeezed, and IF it is planned “a thing for a long time and for a lot of growth”, and if you are ready to carry such a heavy carcass as D90 and an equal to them, it makes sense to look towards the new D7100 (or perhaps D7000, but fig knows ambiguous), which in addition to a purely banal "moral innovation" has such nice additions as work in the semiautomatic mode "shutter priority" with manual lenses (the D90 only has a full mode, which is often inconvenient) and intelligible video (and possibly the best DD).
There are really questions about “too many megapixels and possible problems with it”, but here everyone decides for himself, and not to say that I have seen many complaints about it.
MANY THANKS, LYNX, FOR ANSWER. YES, I WANTED KIT 18-105, BUT YOU HAVE ALREADY HEARED MY REFLECTIONS. FOR THESE DAYS, FIRST I DECIDED THAT I WILL TAKE ONLY THE BODY OF D90 + I WELL BE SURE TO BE ABLE. UNIVERSAL), BECAUSE (APPETITE IS GROWING DURING FOOD) THE D7000 CARCIN IS OBJECTIVE. FINANCE IS Slightly Limited, And I LOVE PHOTOGRAPHING AND HAVE NOT DEPRIVED THE THOUGHT. , AND THE D7000 KIT IS NOT FOR SALE, AND THE LENS IS NOT A GREAT CHOICE. ANNOUNCEMENTS HONESTLY WATCHED, BUT USED SOMEONE DOES NOT WANT SYA. THE ONLY OPTION, IF I WILL HAVE A WAY IN MOSCOW, THEN IT MUST BE CAREFULLY PREPARED FOR THE CHECK OF THE PHOTO APPARATUS, TK. I WILL NOT BE A SIGNIFICANT PHOTOGRAPHER. I NEVER ORDERED A PHOTO THROUGH THE INTERNET, VIDEO AND OTHER EQUIPMENT AND I DO NOT UNDERSTAND IT. I SEEMS TO BUY A CAT IN A BAG, ONLY IF YOU EXCEPT YOURSELF, AND THIS IF ONLY LIVES NEAR MOSCOW AND OTHER LARGE CITIES. IN GENERAL I WILL THINK
how many capsa. O_o.
There are a lot of tips for checking Bush equipment on the network, read, everyone is buying for the first time, but usually there’s nothing complicated. But it’s always better to twist in the hands.
D90 is now rarely sold at all in stores, or only from 18-105, and all sorts of D7000 and D7100 can quite easily be pure carcasses in the Euroset, M-video and others.
http://nikon-sale.livejournal.com/ Nikonian flea market, there you can look at different used, well, or Avito.
I have a nikon of 80, compared with 90, but added a bunch of bows, but alas, replacing the matrix, gave a bluish tint by 90. The natural color is obtained only with correction bb, and in 80 no correction is required, although there are some pluses in 90 . my choice is nikon 80.
I have a nikon of 80, compared with 90, but added a bunch of bows, but alas, replacing the matrix, gave a bluish tint by 90. The natural color is obtained only with correction bb, and in 80 no correction is required, although there are some pluses in 90 . my choice is nikon 80.
Hello! Please tell me where to do this correction?
It seems to figure it out, in the BB I put it from 5000 to 6250-6670. It got a little warmer ...
Good time!
Tell me, D90 with a chip adapter and Soviet optics how does it work? Will the light meter work, say?
Thank you.
as with a chip adapter and it works.
if the chip is normal then modes M and A.
Thank you Lynx. On my Sonya without a chip, in the manual, even the exposure meter works. And here it was said above that with owls. With a D90 lens, the exposure meter does not work. I want to switch to this device. It turns out that we need to take the Lushnikov chip on the adapter.
if you plan to work a lot with different unchipped optics - it is better to take a device with the possibility of exposure metering - from the new ones it is like the D7000 and D7100. from the old - D300 is not bad.
Otherwise, go broke on chips, and intelligible metering still seems to work better for a carcass than a chip.
7000 or 300 can be taken from hands at about the same prices as the D90 from a year ago, and they definitely win in the nineties at least by the presence of metering.
Thanks for the advice.
Hello everyone, the question may be commonplace, but still! what to take, Nikon d3200 or d90? I’m both looking at 18-105 whale lenses! but here’s no problem, I read a lot of complaints about the d90, which is losing optics! it bothers of course, the d3200 seems to be no worse in terms of performance characteristics, and since it will be 1 SLR, it confuses me a lot of things, the same screwdriver in the d3200, it simply isn’t there, so choosing a lens is also not easy! in this regard, with d 90 easier! thank you for your reply,
For Igor ... In order not to write a lot, the differences in the controls of the d90 in this regard compared to the 3200 favorite, everything is placed on the body and there is no need to rummage through the menus. means that the photos will be bad, I myself once faced the choice of 5100 or d90, I also took the latter because it is more comfortable in my hand, about the loss of the lens, I have never had this in almost two years, although I also met on the internet , but in general, look in the direction of 7000 or 7100, they are certainly difficult to master, just like q90, but on the other hand, there will be an incentive to constantly improve, with best wishes, everything written is not a dogma, he just went through this himself. Good luck in choosing and buying.
Sergey, thanks for the answer! Still, having stopped by today in the store, holding 3200 and D90, still D 90, although the old man is still better at hand! Yes, and you feel the norms of technology, 3200 as a soap dish by weight! somehow it does not inspire confidence! but here I saw a review the other day, Pentax k30, as a guy dug it out of the sand, washed it with water and went to take a picture), I went right up to the pentaks and it’s also not a bad apparatus. , in the same place and compared! what can you say about him? Atom I have a week to choose) then a wedding) and fly away to rest in a day) and I already want to fly there with something actually)
Fly better
with a young wife. :)
Igor, you know yourself deeply in your heart a fan of Pentax))) they attract something and when I chose, I also became interested, but after monitoring the Internet I identified the following aspects for myself: the prevalence of the brand and all possible dopiks, and according to the comments of some users, the price drawdown in the secondary market stronger than that of the same Nikon and thought, but I need it, well, at that moment there was no k30 and none of it got out of the sand))), and the one that I liked was dear to me, so I stopped the choice at d90, Canon also considered that moment 60d, was also too big in price, and there was already a canon, although the soap dish decided to experiment, Nikon took it, maybe consider the option of used d90 a lot of them and, in general, in a normal state, but the choice is always difficult plus, as experts say, they choose not a camera, but a SYSTEM - lenses, flash, etc. etc. Have a good choice.
Good evening. Excellent site. Zenith ET, Vivitar V2000 with bayonet, adapter ring and Soviet optics Helios 44-3, JUPITER-37A, INDUSTAR-61L / Z-MS, converter TK-2M, VEGA 11U, mechanical fur. Long delayed with the transition to a quality figure. Plans to take "dandelion" and ??? Identified in two models Pentax K-50 DA L 18-55 WR or Nikon D90 18-105 VR? I'm tired of doubting the maximum applicability of a set of manual lenses for creativity. Pro! Put your doubts to an end. Then, after having figured out the new device, I don’t want to be disappointed in the acquired extra functions and the missing one, important, but in another device! Thank you in advance.
As the owner of the D90, I can say the following from my own experience:
The device is very convenient to use both in terms of functionality and the presence of controls placed on the body, when compared with other amateur cameras in this price category. Everything here is "like in adults." If you want to get acquainted with almost all the chips that are in the prof. devices, then this is what you need. The presence of an autofocus drive so-called. “Screwdrivers” are also an undoubted plus, HOWEVER, it is not possible to use the entire fleet of Soviet optics on Nikon, since the focal length of Nikon is larger than that of other systems, and such glasses cannot be supplied without a lens that degrades the optical quality (except for a small number of glasses produced in Soviet times with special replaceable shank).
But the main drawback that makes it practically unsuitable for the use of this device in wedding photography and any difficult-to-light shooting is the FUCKING NOISE MATRIX. ISO 400 noise is guaranteed if the lighting conditions are slightly worse than ideal. With ISO 800 begins killing fine detail porridge and color degradation. It gets even worse. If you also put a whale lens, then you can completely forget about quality. If you see somewhere a photo from this camera with ISO more than 400 and it looks good, you can be sure that Photoshop has “worked” here. In a nutshell - matrix D90 = UG
I was very upset when I realized that the noisy matrix is generally Nikonov's “proprietary disease”. And this continues in the latest models, judging by the reviews (maybe only the D4 does not suffer from this so clearly). Unfortunately, here Kenon is head and shoulders above. (I don’t know about other brands.) Because of this, if possible, I will change the system, although I really like Nikon in terms of ergonomics.
I ask you not to consider this post as a holivar, but the matrix is really painful. Nikon saddened unspeakably. 8-((
This is the real truth. Although it is written in few places about it, ISO above 400 is a complete mess. Have you had problems with autofocus?
I did not experience much of a problem with autofocus. I shot with this device in different conditions and I can vouch for my impressions - the main drawback is the matrix. I focus mainly on the central point - it is tenacious, for it is a cross. I noticed that other points work worse, but I find it difficult to say exactly how much. When focusing on the screen in LiveView mode, focusing is unstable and smears, because the contrast metering is still that "crap". As far as I know, other DSLRs have a problem with this. Regarding the matrix, I can also note the following - not only ISO is very important, but also the overall quality of lighting. If it is dim, the whole image will be “gray” no matter how you twist it in RAW. Although if it really squeezes - use the proprietary Nikon converter - there really is a difference with other software in working with NEFs. If someone takes pictures of any subject in the light of candles on a hole of at least 1,8 and then gets an acceptable picture and thinks that the matrix is “good”, then let him think about the depth of field, which simply blurs the noise into a uniform bokeh. Put the hole at the minimum of eight and then you “don't have to” look for noise.
I just can’t decide which carcass to take d5100 or d90, give advice.
take Nikon Coolpix P7700
Already have, I want something with interchangeable optics.
The owner himself is D90, and the other has a D5100. We shoot in pairs, so my opinion can be considered objective.
If you don't intend to shoot half the time in video mode, don't even look towards the D5100:
1. A screwdriver in a carcass D90 - a lot has been said about this, as well as about a fifty-ruble 1,8 for $ 100, unlike the AF-S version for 220, so let's omit ...
2. Rotating screen in D5100 - EVIL! Let me explain ... Before the D90, I successfully used the D3000. It has few dedicated function buttons, but the ones that do are located on both sides of the screen. If you need to go to the camera menu for settings - it is definitely more convenient and faster to do with 2 hands! This I mean that in the D5100, due to the rotary screen, the digging is only on the right - after 20 minutes. shooting the finger, to be honest, starts to get tired. Even its predecessor, the D5000, has a lower resolution screen, but its hinge is located at the bottom and not on the left!
3. Battery. You are unlikely to need a booster on the D90! The native battery definitely fulfills more frames than on the D5100.
4. D90 can remotely ignite external flashes, D5100 does not! Personally, I am very stressed by the pictures of people with “shiny” faces - the effect of the built-in flash on the forehead. Even having purchased a Chinese external flash, starting at $ 80 (120 costs a puff with fast sync), you can put it on the sidelines and get live photographs, and not “Christmas balls” instead of faces.
5. Ergonomics. Using the D3000, my little finger “fell off” all the time - due to the small size of the chamber. He and the D5100 are designed for small hands. The D90 sits like a glove in the hand. The D90 is said to be constructed on a metal frame. Probably yes, because he is heavier than the others. This is where I find an advantage when shooting with forewarnning.
6. Upper monochrome display. Personally, I NEVER use the main screen for settings (other than accessing the menu). The battery is really sparing and less manipulations with the camera! D5100 allows you to flip the screen glass inward - WHY? You can't do without a screen when shooting. At the expense of carrying protection - the D90 has glass protection. He took out a fotik, turned on in a moment - and a frame !!
7. D90 has a socket for a GPS sensor, which records data on the coordinates of the seed in the EXIF file. Many consider this an advantage. I won't say anything ...
The only advantage, in my opinion, is that the D5100 has a new low-noise matrix, which is also the same in the D7000 - you can't get away from progress.
From practice, the D90 to ISO 800 gives a pretty decent picture. I shot a bowling alley and naturally in a room with poor lighting .. First I set up the camera to different scenes each time, trying to set the ISO, and then left it at 800 and took it to the end. Well done.
4. D90 can remotely set fire to external flashes, D5100 - no!
D5100 fires up external flashes perfectly !!!! “At least Nissin Di622 MarkII” - it does it with a bang !!!
The D90 sets the external flash on fire with a bang, the D5100 doesn't.
Tell me, what is the maximum amount of memory cards supported by the D90? For example, I intend to buy 32 GB of class 10 ...
32 GB supported. Officially tested maps of Toshiba and Panasonic.
I have big complaints about the Nikon D90: it practically does not give decent pictures without processing. Processing takes a lot of time. The quality of the images is not stable. A large percentage of marriage. I shoot with two cameras: Nikon D90 Nikon AF Nikkor 24-85 2.8-4 D and AFS NIKKOR 50mm 1.8G and Canon G9 Compact. If you are shooting with the G9, the yield of satisfactory pictures is 70 percent, and after Nikonom's work, the yield of photos does not exceed 25-30 percent. It should be noted, however, that Nikon is still capable of taking pictures in quality that the G9 cannot reach, but how much does it cost…. Now I'm looking at Nikon D600 or even D800. And yet, the histogram and Nikona monitor show that the picture seems to have turned out. When you open it in your computer, it’s damp ... If you see a decent picture on the monitor of the device, it’s no worse in the computer ... Such is the case. Maybe not only my D90 is like this? I'd like to know.
Take a closer look at some smartphone. The small screen will yield more than 70 percent satisfactory snapshots. And D600 or even D800 is a money transfer for you.
And where does the small screen? You probably take very good pictures, you know everything about the smartphone ... I would like to take a look at them. Well, and learn something.
The "advanced digital cameras", as well as the usual ones, due to the fact that the matrix is smaller, the depth of field is greater, therefore if you shoot with an automatic machine, in most cases you will get a larger number of images visually "sharp", and in other respects more "correct" ... In addition, the soap dish as-be hints at shooting in a machine, and since this machine will still be more cunning than most amateur photographers, the result is better than that of the same amateurs on manual modes in DSLRs, who also hint at shooting in the manual as-be. ))) Perhaps this is the case. If you are not a professional and do not shoot 80-100% of shots in manual mode, you will pay for greater creative possibilities on DSLRs. Do not leave the green mode on the DSLR and, perhaps, you will be happy))
even if you buy Zenza Bronika, your photographs will not get better, but for this you need to understand the essence of photography, the principle of the camera and (as comrade Lenin said) to study, study, and still study
It seems that the manufacturers have settled well ... A camera is already more expensive than a computer, but where are the pictures? Gives out only blanks for the computer. Well, okay in RAW for those who like to play with a computer, but why all that?
So you yourself answered your own question! Buy a simple SLR camera and spank photos in the D-light mode in a jeep. You'll like it.
Tell me please, but will the Soviet lenses (Jupiter37A) with Dandelion work on the D90?
Yes, they will, and without a dandelion they will also.
You need a replaceable shank KP-A / N on Jupiter37A, but a dandelion is not necessary)
I had a little poyuzat D90 and conduct comparative tests with the D50. Functionality D90 is impressive, but the picture at 12 MP upset, expected more. Firstly, these presets of the picture are like on soap dishes (Standard, Vivid and others), you have to shove each one more than once, and eventually set up your own. More roughly, the camera works with shades of colors exactly at 12 megapixels, as it simplifies the color palette and there is a pixel daub (it reminded me of Sony's noise canceling). The picture is shifted towards the violet-gray tones in comparison with the D50, there is not enough warmth.
The most interesting thing is that in the 6 megapixel mode, Nikon D90 takes pictures very similar to the D50, the colors, shades are transmitted, the light itself looks livelier, apparently 12 megapixels for crop matrix is still a lot (for CMOS). At the same time, D90 gave more DD and, in most cases, got better with white balance and exposure.
Autofocus on the D50 worked better than in the D90 on the same lenses (especially at the maximum focal value), in difficult conditions for autofocus (shooting a homogeneous surface with a small number of details and shades).
All of the above are my personal feelings. I'm waiting for the D200 test, but if anyone has ever used the D90 and D200, I would be glad to hear your opinion.
How exactly did you shoot with six megapixels on the twelve-megapixel D90? Just less quality jeeps or what? )))
I apologize wildly to the author, but forgive me the first time I hear that the D90 has a problem with the backlight on / off switch. 5 years of use did not come to mind. And I even pull this lever during the day. Nada will still twitch, as it is interesting. For all Nikonists, I give advice on rubber bands. Let's go to the radio store to poke for 5 UAH. 100 g gasoline "galosh" on the way to the stationery, a roll of double-sided roll for 3 UAH. Then at home we throw the gum into gasoline in a day, we take it out, dry it for another day on a double-sided skoch, and 5 years of pleasure is guaranteed. And the biggest “-” D90 has no color. With all your wishes, you will never make a good portrait for them. 30 years with Nikon. This is the best photographic technique in the worlds. Hello to all "Nikonists".
It would be better if you learned to write without mistakes than thirty years spent with Nikon.
Guys, does the external flash “heal” the exposure speed of 1/60?
No, a person who does not know how to set a different shutter speed when using the flash, an external flash will not cure.
If the puff with high-speed synchronization and the device itself (such as the D90) supports, then YES.
Sorry. Refutation))) It was not a matter of shortening the exposure, but of an increase. Shoot in the manual.
“Also, do not forget that you can set up the built-in flash so that it gives only commands and does not take part in the shooting itself” Sorry for the stupid question, but how to do it ... (I read the instructions, but I still do not understand).
Described here https://radojuva.com.ua/2012/06/nikon-cls-master-slave-mode/
I have been using this unit for 2 years already and I can’t get enough of it. A very good camera for its level. With your character so to speak. With good lenses, it is not much inferior to professional cameras, if it does not concern very dark places. I often use a Tamron 17-50 f2.8 lens with a VR stabilizer. Pts are good indicators.
I doubt it a little about the "very dark" ones. I think it will be enough "darkish". Now ISO at 12 800 is removed as it is at ISO 800 unambiguously. )
My first Nikon was the D70. I bought it in 2004 and studied with it. Childhood years with Smenami and Zenith-E do not count. In 2010 he decided to update the model. I read a lot of reviews and chose the D90. I have never regretted my choice. I shoot with two lenses - Nikon 17-55 2.8 and Nikon 85mm 1.4. The result is good. I read about the noisy matrix D90 on this forum. Through trials and tests, I came to the conclusion that ISO 800 on this carcass is quite acceptable. I don’t put it anymore. In cathedrals, churches with low lighting I set 640 - 800, the result is good. Do not believe those who say otherwise. And to these comrades, I would advise to change the Nikon 18-55 lens to another. I always shoot in RAW with post-processing. If you don't like shooting in RAW and then poking around in editors, guys - this technique is not for you. Buy a better Vivid mode soap dish and then show each other red faces. This summer I came up with the idea to change the D90 to the D7100. I came to the store with my 17-55, with my card and took several pictures with different settings, incl. and different ISO indoor and outdoor, tortured the seller. At home on my computer I did not find ANY improvement in the quality of the image compared to the D90. D7100 photo files take 7-8 times more space. So I recommend the D90 to all beginners. I want to repeat myself, giving advice to beginners - the main thing in a bunch of carcasses - the lens is optics. Without good glass, you will not get an acceptable image even on a top camera. Who is interested in the pictures taken by the “Noisy Matrix”, please, unsubscribe - I will give you a link.
And you try not architecture, which, of course, does not run anywhere, and doesn’t mind a tripod, but to photograph people in such a “cathedral” twilight, when ISO 800 at the shutter speed and aperture you need, oh how little you will be ...
By the way, the fact that Nikon progresses so slowly in noise compared to Kenon is a separate SADNESS ... So I can even believe about the D7100 (((
Sergei good day .... and what is so bad about 7100 ???. I have a 5100 with a staff / Tamron 28-75 / MC Kaleinar-5H / I would like to advance a little-d90 seems to be outdated, I would like D7100—- or did I miss something? :)
Look at any serious comparative reviews of the new Canon and Nikon devices in the middle price category and you will see that, alas, Nikon drastically merges in noise and generally progresses very tightly in this direction. And although the 7100 is definitely progress, but in the sense of noise, the progress is insignificant, which upsets, you know (((
I have been using the D90 for three years. An excellent car in its class, one of the best NIKON models. I shot at -35 and in the heat, I never let it down. I shot about a hundred, my native battery - 1300 still holds. There is a big difference at 100% magnification from I hardly see the D800. I would only note a certain “dryness” in the color.
"I hardly see much difference at 100% magnification with the D800." This is very strange. The difference in detail between 12MP and 36MP is more likely than not))))) Unless, of course, you use whale glass on both, or at least on the D800. And the D800 has the best dynamic range for today among all devices, as it hints at.
Is pentaprism or a pentanzer mirror used on the D90?
Pentaprism.