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Every day in the comments on my blog 'Radozhiva' the same question is heard - 'which Canon SLR camera to buy?'. In this article I will share my thoughts on this. Please note that the article is very full of subjective factors, since there are a lot of little things to consider when choosing a camera. I work as a professional photographer, and also do reviews of photographic equipment, shoot on almost all Canon and Nikon SLR cameras, you can say I ate a dog with these cameras and lenses.
Canon EOS SLR Camera Selection
All Canon digital SLR cameras can be divided into 3 classes:
- Amateur - These cameras are aimed at people who just need to get a high-quality photo without understanding the intricacies and settings of the camera. Most often, amateur cameras are best suited for people who do not take pictures professionally, but simply want a good camera for home, leisure, travel, family, nature, etc., so that the camera is light, easy to operate and inexpensive. Actually, Canon has the largest range of cameras in this segment.
- Advanced amateur - have advanced functionality with a large number of specific settings that you can deal with for a long time. These cameras are suitable for advanced amateurs who already know the settings, or want to get good potential for mastering skills in photography. Also, these cameras are noticeably more expensive and heavier. A distinctive feature of advanced amateur cameras is the presence of an additional monochrome display on the top panel of the camera, which helps to quickly access a number of settings.
- Professional - these cameras are designed for people who take professional photographs, know a lot about photography and are not afraid of manual settings. Typically, these cameras have a much better body and functionality. A distinctive feature of such cameras is the lack of a built-in flash (for the pros it is not particularly important). Usually these are full-format cameras or cameras with crop factor Kf = 1.3. Also, cameras of the highest price range have a combo case with a special additional handle that helps to keep the camera in portrait (vertical) orientation. I do not specifically touch upon this class of cameras in this article, because there is a million and one nuances in choosing professional equipment, and professionals themselves often know which camera they need.
For beginners and amateurs, I recommend Canon amateur cameras, which are represented in 2017 by 17 models.
The camera is a complex technical device, and the equipment does not stand still. In the tablet I indicated your rating of cameras based on the date the camera was released and its technical characteristics. I think that now the best amateur camera is the Canon 800D, this can be seen from the table below.
When choosing a camera I do not recommend paying much attention to the number of megapixels, in most cases, a huge number of megapixels is not in demand and even unnecessarily, in more detail in sections Battle of Megapixels, Gigapixels и Pixels and Subpixels.
Canon 800D is primarily interesting for its swivel touch screen, fast continuous shooting and excellent video quality.
| Rating | Model | Year | MP | Frame per second | Focus points | Video | Dislpey |
| 1 | 850D | 2020 winter | 24,1 | 7 | 45 (45 k, Dual Pixel AF) | 4K 24p, stereo sound, tracking focus | 3-inch, 1 pixels, rotary and touch |
| 2 | 800D | 2017 winter | 24,2 | 6 | 45 (45 k, Dual Pixel AF) | Full HD 30fps, stereo sound, tracking focus | 3-inch, 1 pixels, rotary and touch |
| 3 | 760D | 2015 winter | 24,2 | 5 | 19 (19 k, Hybrid AF 3) | Full HD 30fps, stereo sound, tracking focus | 3-inch, 1 pixels, rotary and touch |
| 4 | 750D | 2015 winter | 24,2 | 5 | 19 (19 k, Hybrid AF 3) | Full HD 30fps, stereo sound, tracking focus | 3-inch, 1 pixels, rotary and touch |
| 5 | 250D | 2019 spring | 24,2 | 5 | 9 (1 k, Dual Pixel AF) | 4K 25 fpsstereo sound, focus tracking | 3-inch, 1 pixels, rotary and touch |
| 6 | 200D | 2017 summer | 24.0 | 5 | 9 (1 k, Dual Pixel AF) | Full HD 60i, mono sound, tracking focus | 3.2-inch, 1 pixels, rotary and touch |
| 7 | 2000D | 2018 winter | 24.0 | 3 | 9 (1 k) | Full HD 30fps, mono sound, tracking focus | 3-inch, 920 pixels |
| 8 | 700D | 2013 spring | 17,9 | 5 | 9 (9K, Hybrid AF) | Full HD 30fps, stereo sound, tracking focus | 3-inch, 1 pixels, rotary and touch |
| 9 | 650D | 2012 summer | 17,9 | 5 | 9 (9K, Hybrid AF) | Full HD 30fps, stereo sound, tracking focus | 3-inch, 1 pixels, rotary and touch |
| 10 | 100D | 2013 spring | 17,9 | 4 | 9 (1 k, Hybrid AF 2) | Full HD 30fps, mono sound, tracking focus | 3-inch, 1 pixels, touch |
| 11 | 600D | 2011 winter | 17,9 | 3,7 | 9 (1 k) | Full HD 30 stereo sound | 3-inch, 1 pixels, swivel |
| 12 | 550D | 2010 summer | 17,9 | 3,7 | 9 (1 k) | Full HD 30fps, mono sound | 3-inch, 1 pixels |
| 13 | 1300D | 2016 winter | 17,9 | 3 | 9 (1 k) | Full HD 30fps, mono sound | 3-inch, 920 pixels |
| 14 | 1200D | 2014 winter | 17,9 | 3 | 9 (1 k) | Full HD 30fps, mono sound | 3-inch, 460 pixels |
| 15 | 4000D | 2018 winter | 17,9 | 3 | 9 (1 k) | Full HD 30fps, mono sound | 2.7-inch, 230 pixels |
| 16 | 500D | 2009 spring | 15,1 | 3,4 | 9 (1 k) | Full HD 20fps, mono sound | 3-inch, 920 pixels |
| 17 | 1100D | 2011 winter | 12,2 | 3 (2, 0.8) | 9 (1 k) | HD 720p 30fps, mono sound | 2.7-inch, 230 pixels |
| 18 | 1000D | 2008 summer | 10,1 | 3 (1.5) | 7 (1k) | LiveView only | 2.5-inch, 230 pixels |
| 19 | 450D | 2008 winter | 12,2 | 3,5 | 9 (1 k) | LiveView only | 3-inch, 230 pixels |
| 20 | 400D | 2006 summer | 10,1 | 3 | 9 (1 k) | No | 2.5-inch, 230 pixels |
| 21 | 350D | 2005 winter | 8 | 3 | 7 (1 k) | No | 1.8 inches, 118 pixels + monochrome |
| 22 | 300D | 2003 summer | 6,3 | 2,5 | 7 (1 k) | No | 1.8 inches, 118 pixels + monochrome |
In the plate in the column about focusing points, the letter 'k' means the number of cross-shaped focusing points. Such points help better cope with focusing in difficult conditions. For details on how focus points work on Canon cameras, see 'Canon EOS Camera Focus Sensors'. Cameras for which 'Tracking Focus' is not specified will automatically focus when shooting video unless the '*' button is pressed or the shutter button halfway pressed.
About the video: I want to convey to buyers that auto focus on all Canon cameras (except for cameras that support focusing Dual Pixel AF) when shooting a video, it works very poorly. This is due to the fact that the mechanism of a digital SLR camera is poorly adapted for focusing with a raised mirror, which requires a video mode. Typically, focusing when recording video occurs in contrast, rather than using the phase sensors of the camera. Canon says cameras 750D.760D 700D, 650D, 100D they use a hybrid focusing system to achieve fast and accurate focusing when shooting video, but in reality the automatic focusing with these cameras is still quite slow.
The same goes for Nikon SLR cameras and Pentax. If autofocus is very critical when shooting video, then I advise you to look towards Canon cameras with focus Dual Pixel AF, which provides high speed and focus accuracy when shooting video.
Various Canon camera names: 'D', 'Kiss Digital', 'Digital Rebel'
Canon in different countries calls its amateur cameras differently: in Japan they are known by the name 'Kiss Digital'and in the USA under the name'Digital Rebel'. Below is a table of correspondences of names. In Europe and other countries, cameras have a familiar name with the letter 'D'after the model number.
| EOS 'D' | Digital Rebel | Kiss Digital |
| 100D | SL1 | X7 |
| 200D | SL2 | X9 |
| 300D | Digital rebel | Kiss digital |
| 350D | XT | n |
| 400D | Xti | X |
| 450D | xSI | x2 |
| 500D | T1i | X3 |
| 550D | T2i | X4 |
| 600D | T3i | X5 |
| 650D | T4i | X6i |
| 700D | T5i | X7i |
| 750D | T6i | X8i |
| 760D(8000D for Asian markets) | T6s | — |
| 800D | T7i | X9i |
| 850D | T8i | X10i |
| 1000D | XS | F |
| 1100D | T3 | X50 |
| 1200D | T5 | X70 |
| 1300D | T6 | X80 |
| 2000D (1500D for Asian markets) | T7 | X90 |
| 4000D (3000D for Asian markets) | T100 | — |
Canon EOS 77D for Asian markets may have a name '9000D '.
If you are limited in funds, then a good option for an amateur Canon camera is the simple and affordable Canon 1300D, which, together with a standard (whale) lens, costs about 400 USD.
As for the advanced amateur camera, in my opinion, full-length Canon 6D и Canon 6D MarkII are a very interesting option. If there is no desire to get in touch with the full frame, then Canon is an excellent advanced amateur camera. Canon 7D MarkII.
| Rating | Model | Year | MP | Frame per second | Focus points | Video | Dislpey |
| 1 | Canon 7D MarkII | 2014 | 20,2 | 10 | 65 (65 k, Dual Pixel AF) | Full HD 60fps, stereo sound, tracking focus | 3-inch, 1 pixels |
| 2 | 90D | 2019 | 24 | 11 | 45 (45 k, Dual Pixel AF) | UHD 4K 3840 x 2160 30p, stereo sound, tracking focus | 3-inch, touch, swivel |
| 3 | 80D | 2016 | 24 | 7 | 45 (45 k, Dual Pixel AF) | Full HD 60fps, stereo sound, tracking focus | 3-inch, 1 pixels |
| 4 | 77D | 2017 | 24 | 6 | 45 (45 k, Dual Pixel AF) | Full HD 60fps, stereo sound, tracking focus | 3-inch, 1 pixels |
| 5 | 70D | 2013 summer | 20,2 | 7 | 19 (19 k, Dual Pixel AF) | Full HD 30fps, stereo sound, tracking focus | 3-inch, 1 pixels, rotary and touch |
| 6 | 7D | 2009 autumn | 17,9 | 8 | 19 (19 k) | Full HD 30fps, mono sound | 3-inch, 920 pixels |
| 7 | 60D | 2010 summer | 17,9 | 5,3 | 9 (9 k) | Full HD 30fps, mono sound | 3-inch, 1 pixels, swivel |
| 8 | 50D | 2008 summer | 15,1 | 6,3 | 9 (9 k) | LiveView only | 3-inch, 920 pixels |
| 9 | 40D | 2007 summer | 10,1 | 6,5 | 9 (9 k) | LiveView only | 3-inch, 230 pixels |
| 10 | 30D | 2006 winter | 8,2 | 5 | 9 (1 k) | No | 2.5-inch, 230 pixels |
| 11 | 20D | 2004 summer | 8,2 | 5 | 9 (1 k) | No | 1.8 inches, 118 pixels |
| 12 | 10D | 2003 winter | 6,3 | 3 | 7 (1k) | No | 1.8 inches, 118 pixels |
| 13 | D60 | 2002 summer | 6,3 | 3 | 3 (1k) | No | 1.8 inches, 118 pixels |
| 14 | D30 | 2000 spring | 3,1 | 3 | 3 (1k) | No | 1.8 inches, 114 pixels |
I did not include the Canon 20Da and 60Da cameras in the table because of their specific features, which are of little interest to the ordinary amateur photographer. If you have limited means, then a good option for an advanced amateur camera Canon is Canon 70D.
Usually cameras of advanced amateur and professional classes are sold separately from the lens, such a kit is called a 'body', and when a camera is sold with a lens, it is called a 'kit' (this is how cameras from the amateur segment are most often sold), and the lens from the shipment is called a 'whale lens' (sometimes abbreviated and simply called "whale", which creates confusion - both a kit and a lens from such a kit are called the same word).
Attention: you cannot take pictures with one “body” camera, you should always take pictures with a lens :)
Important: usually, if you buy a camera with a whale lens (the so-called whale kit), then such a kit will cost less than buying a camera and the same lens separately.
There are lenses really different, for different purposes and for different tasks. Usually comes with a camera universal standard lensthat can be used for basic tasks. With a standard lens, you can shoot landscapes, close-ups, portraits - almost anything. Most often, the kit contains the cheapest lens of class 18-55 / 3.5-5.6 - Canon Zoom Lens EF-S 18-55mm 1: 3.5-5.6 IS or Canon Zoom Lens EF-S 18-55mm 1: 3.5-5.6 ISII... Also, you can find options with better quality options - Canon Zoom Lens EF-S 18-55mm 1: 3.5-5.6 IS STM or Canon Zoom Lens EF-S 18-135mm 1: 3.5-5.6 IS STM.
The choice of other lenses requires a separate large article, but in addition to the standard (universal whale) lens, I recommend getting a fast, discrete fix the lens. Such a lens does not know how to zoom, but has a higher aperture than "whale". This will allow you to easily shoot in low light conditions, control the depth of field (create blurred background in photos), create a 'bokeh effect', get brighter and more vivid colors in photos.
- Canon EF-S 24mm 1: 2.8 STM
- Canon EF 50mm F / 1.8 II
- Canon EF 50mm F / 1.8 STM
- Canon EF 40mm 1: 2.8 STM
- YONGNUO LENS EF 50mm 1: 1.8
- How to check the camera when buying is described in the section Camera check.
- The performance of all Canon cameras can be found here.
- You can read general information on the Canon EOS system here.
- A list of all Canon EF-S lenses will find here.
My experience
I recommend spending less time choosing a camera - more time will be spent on the photo itself. All cameras are presented in tables (except Canon 6D / 6D MarkII) have the same physical size of the sensor, and therefore at low ISO values, you can get good photos with the same probability. The camera is not always plays a decisive role When creating great photos, the skills of the photographer, lens and light sources are almost always more important. For example, below are my shots on the very first digital SLR camera from Canon, produced in 2000, with a simple lens Canon EF 50mm F / 1.8 STM:
Examples of shots on Canon EOS D30 и Canon EF Lens 50mm 1: 1.8 STM you can see here to register:. increase.
Examples of shots on Canon EOS D30 и Canon EF Lens 50mm 1: 1.8 STM you can see here to register:. increase.
My very useful advice - if there is no money for a new camera, ask your friends for help in buying a used one. camera. Personally, I would opt for the cheapest amateur cameras Canon 1100D, Canon 500D or advanced Canon 60D. If the video recording function in the camera is not critical, then you can stay on amateur Canon models 450D и 1000Das well as advanced models 40D or 50D.
Mirrorless cameras
Canon also launches a range of mirrorless cameras with interchangeable lenses, as cropped (bayonet mount EF-M) and full-frame (R mount) EF-M and R mounts are completely different and lenses cannot be used between them.
List of all Canon EF-M mount cameras
- Canon EOS M
- Canon EOS M2
- Canon EOS M3
- Canon EOS M5
- Canon EOS M6
- Canon EOS M6 MarkII
- Canon EOS M10
- Canon EOS M50
- Canon EOS M50 MarkII
- Canon EOS M100
- Canon EOS M200
An accurate list of all Canon EF-M lenses
Fix Lenses:
- Canon Lens EF-M 22 mm 1:2 STM [2012, 2 colors, AliExpress]
- Canon Lens EF-M 28 mm 1:3.5 Macro IS STM [2016, AliExpress]
- Canon Lens EF-M 32 mm 1:1.4 STM [2018, AliExpress]
Wide angle lenses:
- Canon Zoom Lens EF-M 11-22 mm 1: 4-5.6 IS STM [2013, folding body, AliExpress]
Universal Lenses:
- Canon Zoom Lens EF-M 15-45 mm 1: 3.5-6.3 IS STM [2015, foldable body, 2 colors, AliExpress]
- Canon Zoom Lens EF-M 18-55 mm 1: 3.5-5.6 IS STM [2012, AliExpress]
- Canon Zoom Lens EF-M 18-150 mm 1: 3.5-6.3 IS STM [2016, 2 colors, AliExpress]
Telephoto Lenses:
- Canon Zoom Lens EF-M 55-200 mm 1: 4.5-6.3 IS STM [2014, 2 colors, AliExpress]
Important: using an adapter Canon mount adapter EF-EOS M any lens can be mounted Canon EF, Canon EF-S on cameras with EF-M mount.
+ autofocus lenses from third-party manufacturers:
- Tamron 18-200 / 3.5-6.3
- Sigma 16 / 1.4 | Sigma 30 / 1.4 | Sigma 56 / 1.4
- Viltrox 23 / 1.4 | Viltrox 33 / 1.4 | Viltrox 56 / 1.4
The choice is not very large. It is also very important that the lenses under Ef-m very few (exact list here), which limits the further upgrade of these cameras.
List of all mirrorless cameras with Canon RF mount
- Canon EOS [September 2018, NO IBIS.30MP AliExpress]
- Canon EOS Ra [November 2019, NO IBIS, 30MP]
- Canon EOSRP [February 2019, NO IBIS.26MP AliExpress]
- Canon EOS-R3 [April 2021, IBIS.24MP AliExpress]
- Canon EOS-R5 [July 2020, IBIS.45MP AliExpress]
- Canon EOS R5C [January 2022, NO IBIS, 45MP]
- Canon EOS-R6 [July 2020, IBIS.20MP AliExpress]
- Canon EOS R6 MARK II [November 2022, IBIS, 24MP]
- Canon EOS-R8 [February 2023, NO IBIS, 24MP]
Mirror or mirrorless?
The exact and correct answer does not yet exist. In each case, the answer may be different.
Full frame or crop?
In each case, the answer may be different. In the general case, full-frame cameras are considered better.
Conclusions
- a great option for an amateur cropped DSLR camera Canon EOS 850D
- a great option for the advanced amateur cropped DSLR camera Canon EOS 90D
- a great option for the advanced amateur full-frame Canon EOS 6D Mark II DSLR camera
All prices for Canon cameras (body or Kit) you can see here. Or maybe someone will like Nikon - you can find recommendations on choosing a Nikon camera here.
I don’t understand anything and I was lost in the choice!
Just tell me the budget that you are willing to spend on the camera and the purpose of buying the camera (what you will shoot for and in what) in the comments and they will tell you the best option. Anyway, ask any of your questions in the comments under this article (the site does NOT require absolutely no registration). You can consult me directly on these contacts.
Comments on this post do not require registration. Anyone can leave a comment. Many different photographic equipment can be found on AliExpress.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram
Hello Arkady! I am opening an online men's clothing store, I need a good camera for photos! I was in several stores today, they recommend someone, only a camera, others - a camera + lens. What do you recommend? I would like to get high-quality photos and often have to show the structure of the fabric, etc. Sincerely, Svetlana.
You need: high-quality artificial lighting, various backgrounds, a macro lens with a focal length of about 60-105mm, a tripod and, most importantly, an understanding of what to do with all this. The camera model is not particularly important because conditions are almost perfect. You need to sort out all this once, spend money, and then everything will go on a knurled one. Read articles about subject photography, such as Dmitry Evtifeev. It's not as scary as it seems =)
Hello! Please advise which CANON camera to choose for shooting at night with good quality and low noise, preferably with good video (I’m not particularly fond of video recording, but just in case).
1Dx
moreover, Mark II
6D
Good afternoon! I choose between the Canon EOS 760D and the Canon EOS 70D. Skill level) - beginner. The goal is wedding photography. I would be grateful for your advice.
Of course, the 70D will be better.
Good afternoon, Artyom! Please help me choose an amateur camera from the canon eos 100d and 600d series. Just a lot of information, reviews and ratings, but for a simple layman it's just a price! Thank you in advance
Vladimir, take a trip to a photographic equipment store and just hold in your hands that you like yours more ... I would take 60d for my taste, but it's used. the choice is yours…
Sorry for the typo in the name Arkady ...
Hello, tell me how to replace Nikon d5100. When I bought, I didn’t understand. And now I'm sorry. I want to change, but the finances are small. What can you offer?
What didn’t work?
At pixelpeeper, it is among the top ten best rated cameras (8. Nikon D5100 Average rating: 4.18 / 5 Votes: 555). This, at a minimum, suggests that many people are successfully filming and don’t worry about it) Do you don’t like something specific in it or did you just want a better camera?
aperture during video recording cannot be changed :)
It is possible, on Helios and others like them))
In macro video or through a soap lens adapter?
"Perepil" solves these problems)
And "N" -bayonet ones do not have it initially.
I really wanted to not amateur. and professional. I have this for 4 years. I want to update.
take Canon
Are you planning to stay on the same system (Nikon)?
not necessary. I want to try Canon. advise the model.
If you do not explain what exactly the camera does not suit you at the moment (autofocus, noise, ergonomics, rate of fire, lack of a “screwdriver”, etc., etc.), then NOBODY can help you.
noises, of course. the lack of a screwdriver is a big minus. as this limits the use of various lenses. I have a 35 nikkor. I like. there are Soviet Helios 42 and Jupiter 37.
Nikon D7000 / Canon 60D if the budget is limited, better used Or Nikon D300 / D300s / Canon 7D if you really want to. Nikon D200 / Canon 40D / 50D may not be suitable for noise, but if you are satisfied it is also an option.
Thanks for the answer. I’m just looking at 60d. and nikon d7000. Tell me, what kind of opposition will be more accessible in the future.
Do you know that the D7000 has the same matrix as the D5100?
And by the way, modern lenses are better than old screwdrivers
Forum users! Please help me choose an amateur camera from the canon eos 100d and 600d series. Just a lot of information, reviews and ratings, but for a simple layman it's just a price! Thank you in advance
Use the given rating table from this article.
Thank you ... but I am not familiar with photographic equipment, it is hard for me to understand the table and which camera is inferior and by what parameters of this or that model. Therefore, I will ask for help in choosing a model. And I rely on your professionalism! thanks
Vladimir, if you are not familiar with photographic equipment in general and with SLR cameras in particular, then how are you going to take pictures using the features of SLR cameras? Maybe you should understand the theory and equipment of technology (for starters)?
At the moment, it is obvious that the professionalism of Arkady is not commensurate with yours. For what purposes do you take a camera (image, toy, business, home photo)?
The model range of Canon's three-digit models unambiguously (cool pun) suggests that the larger the number, the better, i.e. 600D is better than 500D.
100D stands alone and is appreciated for its compactness (first of all) and even younger than 600D.
You have already been worried and the choice has been made:
The Canon EOS 100D won the TIPA (Technical Image Press Association) Award for Best Entry Level SLR (Best Digital SLR Entry Level, 2013).
Next comes the financial issue and ergonomics (for you, so far, nothing).
I would advise taking a used one starting from 500D, trying, selling and buying (or not buying) the next camera consciously and maybe not even a SLR or even Canon.
Dear Arkady! All the same, I would very much like to know your opinion on the choice of a camera for beginners. Since there are small differences in the table between the model range. And it is difficult for a simple layman to understand and see the differences. Thanks…
Incidentally, Arkady 350D (if not sold), and then Canon is no longer, unfortunately.
Thanks Oleg for the advice. The camera is needed for home use, to take pictures of a small child and the period of his growth))) I thought about used cameras, but many advise you not to take it so very hard to check it to an incompetent person. Therefore, a problem arose in choosing a model. In many forums, users praise different models, so the question arises - what to stop ??? The 500D is already hard to find. Talking with Canon representatives, they say that the difference between the models is minimal, and the choice is only in aesthetics and ergonomics. 700D only in their opinion is slightly higher in the ranking. That's all the info!
Please.
Starting from 500D, i.e. and 550 and 600 and 650 etc.
The child will have to photograph in the room and therefore you need either a low-noise matrix or an external flash. It’s better to forget about the built-in flash.
And you need to think about a fast lens. I would recommend 35 / 2.0 and wider. For large open spaces, 50 / 1.8 and 85 / 1.8 will be very good.
Thus, it is advisable to budget a flash and a fast lens.
Shoot in RAW (to deal with the basics of processing in DPP).
P.S. Checking a used camera is very simple. Carry with the owner to the service center and ask for a diagnosis.
It all depends on the budget. If it is very small, 10 thousand, then something like 400d should be taken from 18-55is, and in addition a manual flash like Yungnuo 560-2 / 560-3. If there is more money, at least 20-30 thousand, then the choice is already quite expanding. You can take 500d (7 thousand) / 550d (10 thousand) / 600d (13 thousand), for them the lens is 18-55is (2-3 thousand) and depending on the selected carcass, either only 50 1.8 (3-4 thousand), or with him also a flash of canon 430-2 (8-9 thousand). Even in this amount you can take a professional crop, which will be older, there will be no video in it, but there will be higher reliability, protection from dust and moisture, as well as a high rate of fire and excellent autofocus, which is important for shooting children. Here, simply replace the three-digit models with 40d / 50d. I used all the described carcasses, glasses and flashes for a long time, except for 550d (but in fact it is the same as 500d or 600d). The photo quality of all these carcasses is about the same, the difference is minimal. By the way, why canon? If you are not obsessed with it, then you can assemble a kit just as well for Nikon. For example, nikon d80 (7-8 thousand) + 18-55vr (2-3 thousand) + 50 1.8d (5 thousand) + flash nikon sb-700 (9-10 thousand). There will be a great set for shooting a child. On the street 18-55vr, when there is not enough light - 50 1.8d, when it is completely dark - flash with any lens. Colors d80 are gorgeous. True, there is no video. As an option nikon d3300 + 18-55vr2, there is video and work of the matrix in bad light conditions. True, it is used for about 15-20 already, so with a fix (50 1.8g - 8 thousand) and even a manual flash (3 thousand) it will be released in thousands by 30. But the carcass will be newer. By the way, it is easier to check the mileage in Nikon than in Canon, you just need to have the last photo taken by the device.
Sonya, Nex7 or A5100, preferably with a light fix.
If there is a girl, then a very good option - white canon 100d with white 40 / 2,8
Thank you, Oleg! I would like to clarify once again about the 100D, as it is compact and weighs less ... And for the female sex it is important. Will he understand the characteristics?
I was not particularly interested in the 100th. But from my own experience I will say that light weight and size are not always good. More precisely, it is good if you always carry and / or travel with you.
Moreover, do not forget about a flash that is not at all small.
Anyway, 100 will not fit into your pocket.
But this is all my subjective.
My way in cameras: Change 8M, Kiev-60TTL, Zenith ET, Canon PowerShot s3is, 500D, 50D, 6D
Tell me, which camera is suitable for shooting portraits?
Any. Here the matter is more in the lens: fifty fifty, as an economy option. 1.8mm is a great option, but on the crop for shooting outdoors, the room will be a bit narrow and the price is already different. From cameras, think about 85d for a girl.
And if you choose from full-frame?
I didn’t shoot at full frame. Here everything depends on finances 6d or mark3 of carcasses. From portrait lenses: 85mm and above. 135mm at kenon is good.
There was 7d, 6d, but again we need a camera, the choice fell on 6d or 7D mark 2, the six does not suit only autofocus and is not very convenient after the first seven, but I also don’t know after ff to crop, the glass is only fixed with 40stm, 50,85. Thank you.
40 and 50 are very close focal, IMHO, one can be sold. On FF and 50 it is quite full-time and 85 on waist portraits is quite good (I really like it).
I have no problems with 6D autofocus. In the horizontal orientation I use the center point, in the vertical orientation I use the extreme one. Although the extreme one is not a cross, it clings pretty well. And there are no questions at all to the central one (super). After 50D I experienced some inconveniences, but very quickly I got used to it and stopped noticing them.
It seems to me that FF provides a lot more opportunities, both technical and creative. The 6D is a good inexpensive camera with an awesome sensor.
Focal close, but the lenses themselves are radically different.
The device, the optical scheme, the luminosity are of course radically different, but the field of application, IMHO, is one.
Nah.
Application areas:
50 - portrait and shooting in the dark due to aperture ratio. As a staff, IMHO, a weak lens, primarily due to unstable autofocus.
40 is exactly the staff: sharp, with a decent flu, with perfect focus. And plus to this: with an amateur cropped camera, it fits into the pocket of your pants, which allows you to carry it always with you. But as a portrait photographer does not work - too rough. And by the way, the smaller MDF allows you to shoot the subject, while the 50 does not.
A portrait of 50 - if it weren't for 85, it would be like “for lack of the best”, and so complete garbage.
I'm talking about the use of FF, by the way :), and on it there are 17-35 landscape painters, 35-50 staff, 85-135 portrait painters. The aperture ratio (again on FF) is not so fundamental, since the matrix starts to make a noticeable noise after ISO 3200. On a 50-ke, hole 1,8 is not working (in most cases), 2-2,8 is normal, and this is what we have on a 40-ke.
You have trousers, however, like Mayakovsky’s :): (a person chooses between 7Dm2 and 6D)
I won't argue about the subject ...
On personal experience. There was 50 second version (fiction plastic) and now the iron is the first version. So the one that is now quite a regular glass for itself with 70-80% of hits, and with a hole of 5,6 and higher is generally buzzing (to me in the depth of field report less than 10 cm is categorically not convenient). Yes, and optically double Gauss is very good.
But on the crop staff stood 35/2. A worker with 2 and sharp as a razor and fast as diarrhea :) + on the crop and the depth of field more than the FF and the noise came out much earlier (7Dm2 is of course the lowest noise crop and I did not use it).
Well, I don’t shoot portraits, so 40 is the longest I have, but I’ll agree about “bullshit”. It's just that 40 will be significantly worse due to the non-blurring of the background, the hardness of the picture and the inconvenient focal point.
Shtatniki, nevertheless - who is comfortable. With 64 EGF (40 stm) it is quite convenient for me to shoot 98% of everything.
Pants with side pockets - I put everything there.
yes, I forgot about the person ... well, it means that I just “shared my personal experience”.
70-80% is not enough. "Plastic-fantastic", if without back / front focus it gives out, 40ket - 99%.
Optically half (mk1 and mk2, as you know, do not differ) I did not like - the "friable" picture is somehow lifeless. It looks like a budget Sony optics, by the way, in the picture. If at 1.8-2.5, then the softness somehow hides it and it turns out just software, but on closed ones - I don't like it.
And about the choice of 7m2 / 6 - it depends on what the person is shooting and in what conditions. Judging by the lack of zooms, this is hardly a high-speed reportage, but rather something closer to a quieter shooting. In this case, I would still recommend 6.
The shorter the focal point, the more “accurate” hits :) On my 20 / 2,8 - 100%, here at 135 / 2.8 10-15%. The MK2 has such a backlash in the drive that it even theoretically cannot be accurate and the focusing ring travel is 1/4 turn, but the MK1 has almost 1/2 and there is no backlash. Structurally, it is like 35/2, but optically, of course, they are the same.
10-15%?
The value of the lens is vanishingly small. This is clearly some kind of marriage, it should not be so.
Yes, I didn’t have a chance to touch the “grandfather” (mk1), unfortunately. If there are fewer problems with focus, then this is good glass, of course.
10-15% of misses of course :) (missed).
Mk1 from Israel on Ibey bought at a price of about $ 100, happy as an elephant :). And misses, mainly due to poor lighting. I get out of the situation by shooting in the gloom with manual focus.
Two small notes:
1. 600d rotary display
2d is a professional camera.
Regarding the second point: I specified it on the Canon.ru website - the seed is in the section “EOS DSLR Cameras for Amateurs”, along with the EOS M3 mirrorless camera. Obviously, the Canon.ru site was an asshole and it is somewhat strange to refer to it as an argument for classifying the seed as an amateur camera: continuing the logic and then the EOS M3 should be reflected in the article.
Thank you very much. Good info.
Hello! Please help with advice. I appeal to experienced photographers. I shoot at 550D, there is a chance to switch to 50D. Is it worth it? Lenses have 50mm 1.8, 17-85mm and 10-22mm usm. I looked, it seems they say that there are no significant differences except that the 50th in the hand is more convenient. I don’t know what to do. Help
I would not change, you won’t get a win in the picture.
I would change - the body is much better, the autofocus system is better, there is AF adjustment (back / front focus), megapixel
smaller, viewfinder larger. Well, pluses on the little things.
Hello, tell me please, is the stabilizer important in a SLR camera? I consider the model Canon 1200D 18-55 mm. Stores offer this model without a stabilizer, but it seems to me that it is important! What do you say? THANKS!
Canon DSLR cameras do not have a built-in stabilizer. The stabilizer is built into the lens and 1200d comes with 18-55 IS, IS - and there is lens stabilization.
Thank you for correcting me. With this model comes a lens without a stabilizer. Is it worth taking without it?
The optical stabilizer allows you to shoot at faster shutter speeds, but static scenes. If you take pictures of people, then smearing is very likely. IMHO, for receiving high-quality cards more benefit will be from an external flash. And for the future, the flash will help when shooting with any lenses without stabilization, and the vast majority of them :)
this camera almost always (or always) comes in KIT without a stabilizer, you need a stabilizer - look towards 100D IS STM. smooth video is important too, not only stabilizer
All Kenon whale lenses are equipped with a stabilizer. Except may be antediluvian. Do not carry nonsense.
I would argue
Canon EF-S 18-55mm f / 3.5-5.6 III has been available since 2011 and to this day is put on the simplest carcasses from Canon and does not have a stabilizer. By the way, despite the lack of a stub, it gives out a quality quite comparable with stable whales, that is, there are no soap in the first and second unstoppable versions.
Can you please tell me the model Canon 600D 18-55mm IS or Canon 1300D 18-55mm IS, the first model is still a little outdated ... but still ...
Of these two, I would choose the 600D. And I would not take a WHale lens :) A very good option is the Canon EOS 35 f / 2.0 (more expensive) or the Canon EOS 50 f / 1.8 II (very budget). After using KIT you will see the difference.
True, there will be a wide angle for landscapes and panoramas will have to be glued together :)
Canon EOS 35 f / 2.0 costs 40 wooden rubles)))
but as the only one - it's better to put a 40mm pancake, a lot of them are sold, the price is 8 sput
I agree, pancake is a normal option as a regular one. Somehow expensive in Russia costs 35 ka. It can be used for sane money (250 cu)
Hello! Tell me, what kind of lens is optimal to shoot a still life so that there are no distortions and decent colors. Camera san 6d. From optics 35, 135, 17-40 Elki.
What kind of distortion is there? The transmission of perspective, as the eye sees, is close to 50 mm. Can be removed with different perspectives, 35 or 135 mm. Try it, it will be clear. Color is very, very dependent on the settings, post processing and the light that was used. + - modern color lenses render the same way.
Well, it’s thick
Arkady, good afternoon! Please help with a choice: Canon 70D and Nikon 7100. (Body)
1) One of the main points is important that the device is more universal, i.e. good shooting video and photo.
2) Depending on the choice of device, you need a universal lens. Which brand is preferred (price / quality)
3) Is it important whether the device is gray or white? Russian menu. software, etc.
What aspects are still important.
Thank you in advance for your reply.
Sincerely, Andrey Bakharev.
for video, the Canon 70D is certainly better - it has sensors on the matrix (the cheaper Canon 100D also has this feature). for video, choose a lens with the letters STM
Hello, please tell me whether it is worth changing Nikon 3100 to Canon 40d? thanks
If you want with video - 3100, if without - then 40d
I already have 3100 I want to exchange for canon, what can you advise?
Thanks for the excellent and informative site.
I apologize in advance if I ask you in the wrong branch. I choose a camera to shoot the dog on the street, the object will jump and run. The budget is about 40 thousand rubles. Today I chose the Nikon D300 camera, but I can’t decide on the lenses between: Nikon ED AF-S Nikkor 70-300mm 1: 4.5-5.6G VR IF SWM (short for Nikon 70- 300 VR) and Nikon ED AF Nikkor 80-200mm 1: 2.8D (MKII). I chose them as the fastest to focus on my budget. Please tell me which option is better to stop and maybe offer something else, which I did not pay attention to.
This is more for this topic - https://radojuva.com/2013/01/what-camera-nikon-shoud-i-buy/
70-300 will be more convenient, a little longer, sometimes it is more important for shooting outdoors.
Thanks for the quick response.
That was wrong, so wrong. Please transfer to the above topic or rub the post and I will repeat it in the desired branch. And then in fact this is sacrilege))).
All ok) do not worry.
Arkady, good day! Your article is very interesting. And from the comments you can also make something. Can you give me a little advice?
I’m doing the subject of year 2. I photographed on Canon 1100d + 2 simple flashes and a lightcube. He shot commercial videos and conducted a couple of times reporting shooting at 1100 as well. Focus very often missed, and the shooting speed wished for the best. Now I plan to buy the equipment a little more seriously. I choose between canon 6D and 7d mark III. The matrix is attractive in 6D, but the focus is confusing (11 points instead of 9 on 1100d), the shooting speed is also not up to par and expensive lenses. And the 7d Mark III is a station wagon for me, with which you can shoot video reviews of goods (for the future), as well as a report, an item and not even a bad portrait photo, but the crop is confusing.
How are you protecting? What is the best place to start? Take crop and do not steam. Or swing at FF and try to pull him out?
I would still take a full-format camera. If the crop, then you can do 70d.
The 7d Mark III should not be confused by the crop, but by the fact that it does not exist yet ...
Good day!
I want to give my sister a camera and faced a difficult choice for me. Which is better to take:
Canon 1200D double kit 18-55 III + 50 f / 1.8 STM
Canon 600D kit 18-55 IS II
Canon 700D kit 18-55 IS STM?
I understand that everyone and everyone is tired of such questions, but I will be very grateful for the answer!
Of course 700 :)))
Sister is not a photographer? Then the carcass is more modern, and the lens (when and if it delves into the topic) itself picks up.
Of these, I would advise the first option. Yes, because of the lens.
There is almost no difference between the carcasses (the matrix is the same), and half a toss is a significant argument, if indeed STM.
NOT, well, if so, then of course. Do you really think that there is no difference between 700 and 1200? And in the picture, 50 STM is different from fiction plastic? And 18-55 III (without stub) is the same with 18-55 STM (!)
If I were a sister (:)), then I chose a good carcass with a suitable whale, and looked towards 35/2 (which is more suitable for the role of fast fix for every day for crop cameras than 50mm), and for trying fast 50- to take 50 / 1.8 II for 100 bucks.
Catherine buy modern with a perspective of several years.
I completely agree. Take 700 without hesitation. Fifty can be bought later if desired. I have 600th and tried 1200. Ergonomics in small ones is zero.
For a beginner, I really think there is no difference between these cameras. But can you say specifically how 700d is much better than 1200d? What is it about it that “take without hesitation”?
In the STM picture, the half-speed is much better because of the much more rare back / focus front (the only global problem is plastic fiction).
A meaningful lens is much more important than a newer carcass. 35/2 is better suited for the role of a staff member, I agree, and even better - 40 / 2.8, perhaps. But in order to come to a fix-staff instead of a kit-staff, experience and understanding are needed, and half a toss will give a beginner much more and immediately, I say from my own experience.
Whales - yes, almost the same. Like almost all whales.
The need for ergonomics also needs to be grown, a beginner does not care at all, since habits have not yet been formed.
The 700 has a rotatable display (which helps a lot) and a touchscreen (here for an amateur) with a high resolution. Higher iso range. The camera itself is larger. Just for a woman's hand, and not for a child's, like the 1200. Burst shooting is faster and the buffer is larger. And for the little things (without which it can be hard) - the iso button, the diaphragm repeater, info.
A fifty dollars stm is already in the secondary for 2000 UAH. thrown away in excellent condition. New in the area of 3000 you can buy. It is not a fact that it will be in demand. For example, a person will take himself 17-50 / 2,8 and close this question for himself. But then he will bite his elbows when he will spend extra time on adjusting the camera settings.
You know, different people need different things. I just couldn't use the 600 because of the moronic rotary display, so - all this is IMHI. I understand that in this regard, I hardly express the opinion of the mass consumer, rather the opposite, but still. I am silent about sensory at all.
The camera is 2mm larger in one direction and 3mm larger in the other. I doubt that this is significant.
The shooting speed and the buffer - to the amateur exactly to the light bulb. It doesn't even matter to me, although I've been shooting for 7 years for sure. This is necessary if you are shooting serious dynamics, and even then not always.
The ISO button is there, have you often used the repeater on the camera without a pentaprism? Which one? Did you see anything there?
INFO, ok, there is no this button. However, this does not justify the difference, for sure.
On financial issues I will not say, I answered the question "which is better to take?", And not "which is more profitable to take?" IMHO, 17-50 does not cover fifty dollars in 90% of cases.
CPU? And what does he give you as a photographer? And what exactly 4 loses 5mu?
I really thought you would appeal to the autofocus system, which really can be significant, but again, I don’t think that an amateur could feel the charm of the side cross points of 700 instead of the simple ones of 1200.
And what when folded swivel did not please you? How do you remove from the ground or from arms extended upwards?
Take both in your hands and understand.
If you do not use the series, it does not mean that the rest does not need it. For example, it may be relevant for an amateur to remove a child playing football.
Often. For example, I put hyperfocal in the show. Show in the picture where the iso button is. I did not find it live.
17-50 closes 90%. 50 / 1,8 as a short portrait, as a normal long. Usually euphoria from him in the beginners after the whale.
A newer processor means new improved data processing algorithms. As a result, improved noise reduction, extended ISO range, improved conversion to zhp. Performance.
The fragility of the design. It happened to me to strike the face of the device, and I was glad that the display was not rotatable. Now I calmly let my son play my camera (1,5 years), which I would not do with the presence of a rotary display. Well, this affects ergonomics. After the introduction of the rotary display, the buttons on the right became much more crowded, which makes them more convenient to use. The combination of these factors does not suit me.
I shoot in series, apparently just not so big. And I shoot a running child, too.
Ok, I agree about hyperfocal, I do not do this. Just using often the same lenses, I intuitively know the depth of field for different apertures. I rarely make mistakes.
I would have closed only 10 percent, no more. I’ll even say that, even my 40cm he would have blocked only 25.
About the processor:
1. Shumodav generally recommend not to use. Seriously, I have never seen it work well.
2. ISO is expanding into a range that ... well, I personally don't use it at all.
3. I will not say anything about converting to zhpg, since I don’t see a problem with this even with a 350d with a second processor (or the first one, what is it?)
4. Does your SLR slow you down? I have not seen this, only on the BZK it was.
In the picture, the button is labeled "ISO"
Well, we definitely won’t convince each other, however, perhaps by reading what we wrote, a person will be able to make a more balanced choice.
Thanks for the nice discussion.
I apologize! I’m used to that on all cameras, Iso is on top for quick switching. When I shot it through Q I changed it. The buttons are not nearly more crowded, but even more advanced.
About bumping into something. Well, if the display is deployed and hooked on them only. Otherwise, work the same as with the usual.
Well, I have nothing more to do, how to memorize values from 5,6 to 16 and from 10 to 200 in all kinds of combinations))) I used to use a calculator on the phone. Now manually set up in 20 seconds.
About the processor. I do not shoot in zhpg at all. Accordingly, I do not use shumodavs. But other people can use it. You do not prefer to use high ISOs - this is your right. But when there is no other choice, turn around and leave? It is clear that the photos will be more like a souvenir, but this is nothing. Plus, when focusing at night, you can lift up the iso, focus and return to what you need. Also, when shooting at night, a high ISO helps to calculate the required shutter speed when the exposure meter is no longer “friends” with you.
Does the SLR slow down? yes when the buffer is clogged.
“Well, we will definitely not convince each other, however, perhaps, having read what we have written, a person will be able to make a more balanced choice.
Thanks for the pleasant discussion. ”
So that’s the point. The man will read. Seeing exactly his moments of interest, he will be able to choose.
Well, I just wanted to indicate that our "argument" is going on in a friendly, debatable manner, and nothing more.
The ISO button on top interfered with me, because I had to move my finger off the trigger. The back is more organic. I hate Q with fierce hatred, it is impossible to climb into it. In particular, because of this, I could not work as initial nikons - they have no options, everything is only through the menu (except for rare exceptions).
No, my mobile display was dead, I know what I'm talking about. After that incident - just nailed, no options.
I didn’t memorize anything either, of course, just by experience, by intuition. but the scatter of focal points is, of course, much less.
At 1200, the maximum iso is 12800. Well, I do not use 6400, to be honest. There is no case. Do you often use above 12k?
About shumodavs - I agree. And it's hard for me to appreciate the argument that the noise reduction is better in the new camera, since I can't compare their quality.
Well, about LV, I’ll believe you, because I don’t use it myself, and about night shoots, too, since I did not encounter them. Useful trick, thank you, I will use it if there is a case.
When iso above, you can change it with your index finger without looking up from the viewfinder. It seems to me so comfortable. The Q button is evil by definition))). In 450 it was possible to change the exposure metering with a separate button, in new cameras through Ku. Extra body movements.
Once I happened to shoot at 6400. Already on it, the noise was unacceptable. But usually, the larger the stock, the higher the acceptable values.
Oh yes! In 700ke, the newer digic 5 processor versus the fourth in 1200d.
Fifty 50mm STM in terms of card quality at an open aperture of 1,8-2,0 is much better than the mark II, the aperture of which was working starting from 2,5. The same applies to 35mm, which is soapy at 2,0 aperture and is not sharp until you close it to 2,5, which is why 40mm 2,8 is better - it is 2,8 sharper than 35mm by 4.0. You can of course 35mm 2,0 with a stabilizer, but it is 2,5 times more expensive than 40mm. As for the camera for photos and not video, then it is better not to take all these 1000-1100-1200, but take the 450th canon (but not 400, which has an old-style shutter and is designed for 50t. Actuations, unlike 100t. For 450 ) or the 500th. You should not take more than 12-15mp on the crop. Better yet, the 40th canon.
Better 700D. 1200 if you take it, then with a more expensive lens (type 18-135, for example).
at canon with whale picture quality, that at 18-135, that at 17-85 everything is sad
18-55 is no worse
I agree, the soap will be the same. But the focal ones cover the entire popular range (18-55 is still a bit short, I missed it). For a single lens, the very thing is very convenient.
here (hereinafter Measurements - Sharpness - Field map)
https://www.dxomark.com/Lenses/Compare/Side-by-side/EF-S-17-85mm-f-4-5.6-IS-USM-on-Canon-EOS-7D-Mark-II-versus-EF-S-18-55mm-f-3.5-5.6-IS-II-on-Canon-EOS-7D-Mark-II-versus-EF-S-18-135-mm-IS-USM-on-Canon-EOS-7D-Mark-II__170_977_367_977_256_977
18-55IS II is the best, it surpasses only 15-85
I had 15-85mm, I didn't like it at all, I even regretted having sold 18-55mm. STM - shot better than 15-85mm. and even more so than 18-135mm. Of all whales, 18-55mm STM is the best in terms of both sharpness and HA - they are invisible, unlike other whales
I will add :)
1. If the budget (money) is in the first place, then 1200.
2. If it is important to make a worthy gift to a dear person, then 700 (70, 7, 6, 5 dm3 indicated in ascending order). Quality materials, swivel display, touch screen, better autofocus, better ergonomics. There are more than enough pluses ...
Yes, 50-k in the overwhelming majority of cases is the first high-aperture lens after the whale one. But, very quickly (many) understands its uselessness (not a good focal point) and it is either rarely used or sold. I bought and sold fifty dollars twice. After changing the camera to FF, I bought the latter (grandfather with a metal bayonet of the first version and use it as a standard one (but this is FF) and I understand that 35 would be more convenient.
In general, a standard object is considered, the focal length of which is approximately equal to the matrix diagonal, i.e. on FF it is 43mm, and therefore 40mm and 50mm lenses will be standard, and on crop - 27mm and standard lenses will be 24mm - 28mm.
Now canon does not have a normal advanced camera. There is an expensive 5d4 with a good matrix at the moment, but with poor video and relatively slow memory cards. There is an inexpensive 6d slow with terrible autofocus.
Nikon has an inexpensive d750 with poor video, but with an inclined screen, good matrix, good autofocus.
There is an inexpensive tamron 24-70 f2.8 lens with an optical stabilizer for night landscapes
Nikon has a cheap d3300 with a good matrix, much better than canon 1200d
Buying a canon 80d is very strange. For the video, it is outdated because there is no 4k hdr 60. For the photo, it has too little matrix.
For photos, more details are desirable. And at canon 5dsr the matrix of the generation before last. Now matrices with the same pixel size give out image quality many times better, for example, in the latest generation red camera. The role of the smoothing filter is performed by the lens.
All canon cameras abut the marketing barrier, they cannot be better than 1dx2, and 1dx2 cannot be better than canon cameras for $ 40, so the whole range of canon cameras degrades in their development, the price remains high, and the functionality does not significantly improve
Vinaigrette of thoughts ...
+100500
I saw photos from the D3300, somehow not impressive. people take pictures of tree branches, it turns porridge
the role of the camera (carcass) is tertiary.
1st degree - photographer
2nd degree - lens
3rd degree - carcass
another thing is that a budget camera is in large numbers among fans shooting on a fully automatic machine, but an experienced photographer will remove a high-quality card with this camera
A question. If I take a canon 750d 18-135mm is stm camera (the lens is more suitable for shooting video), will the photo quality be worse?
Will not. STM does not affect the quality of photos in any way, very convenient focal lengths
You will get much higher quality photos by taking fixes rather than zooms. Pay attention to the 24mm and 40mm pancakes - great fixes !! And if for portraits - then you can 60mm 2,8 and 85mm 2,8. I have been using fixes for a long time and believe me, this is a completely different picture quality. And here are my objects)))))
Sorry, 85mm 1,8
Good day! What kind of bi-vi did you enjoy with the nicon d3100 chi canon 1100d?
Nicon is fake, don't take her
I’ve bought a 650D for my son for several years now, I want a better one, he often travels, which one to choose, help in choosing please
Sound the budget, or use the rating in this article (see models that are higher than 650D).