For the opportunity Nikon D5100 body camera review Many thanks to Sergey Svirida.
Nikon D5100 review
I want to write everything at once about the Nikon D5100 - it's just awesome multimedia harvester, which manages to squeeze just the prohibitive image quality. In this review, information is only about the camera itself Nikon D5100 body. Very often, the Nikon D5100 is sold along with universal lenses, and this set is called Kit. Usually in a set Nikon D5100 Kit such lenses as:
- Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G ED VR AF-S DX Nikkor
- Nikon 18-55mm f / 3.5-5.6G ED AF-S DX Zoom-Nikkor (or one of its 3 modifications)
- Nikon 18-200mm f / 3.5-5.6G IF-ED AF-S DX VR Zoom-Nikkorcan be met very rarely
- Nikon 55-200mm f / 4-5.6 AF-S VR DX Zoom-Nikkoras optional included
- Nikon 55-300mm f / 4.5-5.6G ED VR AF-S DX Nikkor as optional in kit
The best option is an 18-200mm lens, it is enough for all occasions - from a wide angle for a landscape or a small apartment, to photographing birds and bunnies. If you still need to start somewhere, then the kit lens 18-55m is quite suitable, and do not believe that the kit lens is so terrible, just important how to take pictures, and not on what technique. For portrait shooting, I advise you to look towards the lens Nikon 50mm f / 1.8G AF-S Nikkor, and as a good sharp fast aperture fixed lens for every day can act Nikon 35mm f / 1.8G AF-S DX Nikkor.
View of the Nikon D5100 camera from different angles
Nikon D5100 - This is an amateur SLR camera from Nikon, a highly updated version of the Nikon D5000. The camera can shoot Full HD video and take pictures at a speed 4 frames per second.
Sample photo on Nikon D5100
Important points:
Matrix Nikon D5100 matrix based Nikon D7000. The matrix Nikon D7000 can give out a picture high dynamic range, excellent color reproduction and low noise at high ISO. The Nikon D5100 does the same. When I took the first test shots on Nikon D5100 and ISO 6400, I was just amazed at the image quality. The result was really very juicy and lively picture, and this is at 16,2 megapixels, because in this review there are many night photos as examples. ISO camera can be set from value 100 to 25,600, values ISO 12.800. и ISO 25.600. are denoted as Hi1 и Hi2, I do not recommend shooting at such high ISO.
Nikon D5100 installed CMOS 16.2-megapixel sensor. Yes, the Nikon D5100 has as much as 16,2MP, which is the same as that of Nikon D7000 and full frame Nikon D4. More megapixels can only be found in the very expensive Nikon D3x, Nikon D800,D800E, D3200, D600, D5200 (at the time of writing). The number of megapixels is not a serious indicator of the quality of a photograph, but still, the more the better. If you are chasing megapixels, I advise you to pay attention to my note Battle of Megapixels. I shoot 6.2 megapixel without any problems Nikon D40I advise you to go to the review page Nikon D40 and make sure that even at 6.2MP you can get an excellent image result.
Nikon D5100 uses a sensor manufactured by Sony, the same sensor is found in cameras:
- Nikon D7000
- Pentax K-30
- Pentax K-5
- Pentax K-01
- Sony a580
- Sony A55
- Sony NEX-5N
Photo on Nikon D5100 - saturated colors of the camera
Actually, the matrix is the heart of the camera, and the better it is, the better your photographs will be. Nikon D5100 has the same matrix size as the more advanced ones Nikon D7000, D90, D300s. The Nikon D5100 APS-C sensor available, which means that the matrix is 2.25 times smaller in area than the matrix of full-frame SLR cameras, such as Nikon D700 or D3s. This entails an effect. crop factor. When using lenses from full-frame cameras, the viewing angle will be narrower than on film or in a full frame. More details in the article Crop Factor.
Sample photo on Nikon D5100
Other important points that really affect the operation and functionality of the camera
- Large rotary display. The display has 921.000 points. Nikon D5100 uses the same number of pixels as the camera D3, D3s, D3x, D700, D300, D300s, D90, D7000, D3200 и Nikon D5200
- Very fast EXPEED-2 processor, with which the camera shows excellent speed.
- Nikon D5100 uses 11 focus pointsfor which the focus module is responsible Nikon Multi-CAM 1000. The same module is on such cameras as Nikon D90, D3100, D3000, D80, D200 and D5000. Focusing is accurate. Focusing speed is highly dependent on the lens and shooting conditions.
- Measurement exposure implemented using a 420-pixel sensor, the same as that of Nikon D80, D90, D60, D40x, D50, D5000 and D3100. The camera measures the exposure perfectly, the only one, because Active is on D-lighting the camera sometimes exposes the frame.
- The shooting speed is 4 frames per second. This is just a little less than 4.5 fps for a more advanced Nikon D90. 4 fps is enough for any type of shooting. Even a full-frame professional Nikon D800 can shoot a maximum of 4k \ s. Personally, I always have enough even 2.5 frames per second on my old woman Nikon D40. A high rate of fire is needed only for certain situations. A high rate of fire requires a large frame buffer and a fast memory card. For example, when I reviewed the Nikon D5100, the camera used a slow 8GB SD flash drive. Since I was shooting in RAW for review, the camera was very slow after 2 seconds of shooting in fast mode. Due to the fact that RAW files from the camera weigh about 15mb, I had to wait a very long time until the files were written to the memory card. Indeed, the whole charm of fast continuous shooting at 4 fps can be estimated by shooting only in JPEG.
- Frame buffer when shooting in RAW format is 11 frames. This is as much as that of Nikon D90 when shooting in RAW. How much the camera will slow down during serial shooting will greatly depend on the buffer capacity. In an earlier model Nikon D3100, frame buffer is 13 pieces in RAW.
- Attention: Nikon D5100 Nikon's first amateur camera to use RAW with 14 bit color depth. This is very good news for fans of processing RAW photos. Unfortunately, like all Nikon amateur cameras, the D5100 does not have a choice of RAW compression levels or a choice of color depth.
Example photo on the Nikon D5100. Snowy glass.
- Full HD movie shooting 1980 * 1080, with maximum quality you can shoot videos up to 20 minutes long. Believe me, 20 minutes is enough for the video. You can choose different shooting modes in different quality. Another important detail to shoot video on the desired aperture, you first need to install it, and therefore already enable Live View and start recording. When Live View is on, aperture change is not available.
- Convenient menu and overall camera ergonomics. At first, it might seem that controlling the camera with one hand is difficult, but then you can quickly get used to the control.
Example photo on Nikon D5100 at high ISO
- A bunch of useful additions - automatic correction of distortion, aberration, Active D-lighting, Breckening, Live View, Timelapse, etc. Important! Automatic correction of distortion and chromatic aberration is removed only when shooting in JPEG.
- The camera has one great feature - HDR. HDR takes two frames with different exposures and saves them in one file. Very comfortable and interesting. The HDR function is not available when shooting in RAW. The HDR function is conveniently programmed with the FN button.
Example photo on Nikon D5100 at very high ISO
- A little about the shortcomings - this is an amateur camera, because in the camera no many features from more advanced or professional cameras. Personally very important to me fast flash sync, flash command modeFine tune focus manual exposure metering and availability focus motor - Nikon D5100 doesn't have them. Highly I consider “picture braking” a strong drawback when sighting through Live View and approaching the image area 1 to 1 (or similar) - the picture slows down quite a lot. There is no such effect on Nikon D90. Such an approximation helps to very accurately sharpen the desired focus point.
All sample photos on the Nikon D5100 from this review were shot in RAW -> JPEG, without processing, only resized to 720 * 477 pixels with imprinted EXIF in order to be able to judge the shooting parameters. Please note that at high ISO photos are more or less acceptable.
Example photo on the Nikon D5100. Loss of juiciness of the color gamut when raising ISO
Recommendations
In order to speed up focusing, use the optical viewfinder. When focusing in Live View, the focusing accuracy will be very high, but the speed will be very slow, since the camera and the lens will need to measure contrast at different focusing distances and only then put the lens in the desired position. When focusing through the optical viewfinder (through the eye), the camera is much quicker to cope with focusing. It is for this reason that older cameras such as Nikon D300, D300s, D700 etc., there are two Live View shooting modes. These are tripod mode and hand mode. In hand-held mode and Live View on, when you press the shutter button halfway, Live View turns off and autofocusing occurs through the phase sensors, after a successful focus is achieved, Live View turns on again.
Photo at Nikon D5100 at low ISO in low light
If desperately needed maximum frame buffer, then you need to turn off all functions that reduce the number of photos in the buffer. I think you will be surprised when in paragraph 5 it is written about 11 frames in the buffer, but in reality there will be less of them. The number of frames that the buffer can fit is shown in the lower right corner of the viewfinder when you press the shutter button halfway. Usually, with noise reduction turned on for high ISOs and slow shutter speeds, as well as when active D-lighting the number of frames in the buffer drops sharply. Therefore, by disabling these functions you can get the claimed 11 frames. Well, if you do not need RAW, then in high-quality JPEG with advanced settings enabled 16 frames - and this is for 4 seconds of continuous shooting. It is unlikely that someone takes a burst of longer than 4-5 seconds.
Photo on Nikon D5100
When you place the camera in a case (in a photo bag), turn the display with the dark side out, and the LCD monitor in the middle so that the monitor does not scratch during transportation. If shooting in JPEG, I recommend turning on noise reduction at high ISOs and slow shutter speeds. For a saturated picture you can use Active D-lighting in HIGH mode. You can also configure the FN programmable button, which is located next to the flash up button. I usually program the FN button for the ISO control function.
Sample photos on Nikon D5100 using a lens Nikon 50mm f / 1.8G AF-S Nikkor. Photos without processing.
Don't know what to choose?
Usually, a person who wants to buy a camera of this level stops at 2-3 Nikon models. it Nikon D3100, Nikon D5000, Nikon D5100, D5200. I recommend taking a simpler model Nikon D3100, which can do the same thing as the D5100, but its price is much less. D5100 is more suitable for those who like to shoot in poor lighting conditions at high ISO. Saturation and image quality on the D5100 and D3100 very similar to low and medium ISO. Of course newer Nikon D5200 in many ways beats the Nikon D5100.
| D5000 | D5100 | D5200 | |
| Exit time | June 2009 | April 2011 | November 2012 |
| RAW color depth | 12 bit | 14 bit | 14 bit |
| Number of megapixels | 12,20 | 16,08 | 24,00 |
| Burst Speed | 4 fps | 4 fps | 5 fps |
| Minimum ISO | 200,00 | 100,00 | 100,00 |
| Minimum Extensive ISO | 100 (Lo1) | - | - |
| Maximum ISO | 3200,00 | 6400,00 | 6400,00 |
| Maximum Extended ISO | 6400 (Hi1) | 25600 (Hi2) | 25600 (Hi2) |
| Video length max. qualities | 5 minutes | 20 minutes | 20 minutes |
| Video | 1280 x 720 24fps | 1920x1080 30fps | 1920 x 1080 60i |
| Sound | mono | mono | stereo |
| Display | 2.7 inches, 230.000 points | 3 inches, 921.000 points | 3 inches, 921.000 points |
| Focus module | Multi-cam 1000 | Multi-cam 1000 | Multi-CAM 4800DX |
| Number of Focus Points | 11,00 | 11,00 | 39,00 |
| Measurement exposure | 420-pixel RGB sensor | 420-pixel RGB sensor | 2016-pixel RGB sensor |
| Memory cards | SD,SDHC | SD, SDHC, SDXC | SD, SDHC, SDXC (UHS-I) |
| Weight without battery, g | 550,00 | 510,00 | 505,00 |
| HDR | no | Yes | Yes |
I do not recommend buying an older Nikon D5000, it does not have autofocus when shooting video, and it is quite difficult for an ordinary user to focus on sharpness manually.
By the way here a list of all CZKs from Nikonmaybe he will help in choosing.
Photo on Nikon D5100
Prices for modern Nikon cameras in popular stores can look at this link.
Comments on this post do not require registration. Anyone can leave a comment. Many different photographic equipment can be found on AliExpress.
Conclusions
Nikon D5100 gives a very good picture one click on the shutter button. Camera for photo lovers who just need a good result in a photo without unnecessary troubles. Full HD and a swivel display makes the camera even more attractive. Given that the camera has a matrix of very high quality Nikon D7000then Nikon D5100 can be used by advanced amateurs as well.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram
Sanya, look at the Nikon 85mm f / 3.5G ED VR DX AF-S Micro-Nikkor, or the Nikon AF-S Micro Nikkor 60mm f / 2.8G. Both are good, but I would take 60mm, it is more versatile and for a full frame. The price is a couple of thousand more than your budget. And now you can put macromech on these lenses, and preferably autofocus macro rings.
Lynx, I appreciate your advice, it’s just problematic to look for / buy adapter rings and Soviet lenses (I know good ones) I need a good macro lens in my budget so that I can remove coins and insects / cockroaches.
I’ll go shopping tomorrow and see what is available. Thank you all and good staff.
good luck!
The idea, in general, is not bad.
But firstly, lithium batteries do not solder - they are very afraid of overheating, they are welded by spot welding (the process, unlike soldering, is very fast, the insides of the battery do not have time to heat up significantly).
Secondly, the question arises about the prompt replacement of the battery.
I have 4 batteries in use: 1 original, 2 chip and one unchipped Chinese - ExtraDigital, the capacity is the same as that of the branded + BatBlock. Basically, it's enough for an average day of shooting.
With very intense shooting (sports dancing, the tournament went from 9 a.m. to 3 a.m.) while a pair of batteries sit down, the second pair manages to charge (even in turn, in one charger)
Thirdly, the appearance and dimensions. I very often use the portrait orientation of the device and the release button of the butblock. If the batteries are glued to the bottom, you will lose this option.
If you really want to, I would advise you to completely sort out the butblock and "mount" all of the above stationary (you can even put more capacity), put the socket and charge the batteries without removing - IMHO, it will be more practical than hanging wires and scotch tape ...
PS When the warranty on the device expired, I mounted two contact pads inside the battery compartment, respectively, on the batblock, and now I do not need to connect the trigger of the batblock with a wire - but this is at my own peril and risk.
Sorry, it was Taras' answer to the post from 23.09, but for some reason he “didn't stick to it”
Thanks for the pads idea! And one more idea of yours about a homemade power supply unit from the network for the D5100 is also interesting. Until now, I have been poking around only in the software part of the camera - so far it has been successful, but it did not come to the hardware. Now the warranty is over - you can try.
Contacts look something like this.
You only need 2 contacts - "focus" and "release", because they are shorted to “ground”, and “ground” is already connected through the battery contacts. Inside the device, a piece of foil-clad textolite is glued in with hot melt glue (you can then tear it off), two metal springy plates are soldered on a piece of textolite, the wires from them are soldered directly to the trigger button of the device (I had to grind the body of the IR sensor a little).
Due to the rather rigid springy contacts, the battery now comes out badly from the device - you have to 'shake it out' - take this into account, but I do not use the device without a batblock.
From the side of the block, again a piece of foil textolite, the wires are inserted into the through holes and soldered to the contact pads. It is fixed with hot glue.
Now you can connect the trigger cable to the buttlock socket, but in general you can re-solder it to your needs (for power, for example).
And what gave you a pick in the software?
Possibilities of changing the firmware with an online patch or NTool prog:
1 - remove time based video restrictions (up to 17-20 min)
2 - liveview manual contorl ISO / shutter
3 - NEF compression off
4 - NEF compression lossless
5 - disable Nikon “star eater” (useful for astrophotographers)
6 - JPEG compression - quality (vs. space)
7 - non-brand battery
I answered you below (for some reason the answer did not “stick”, but became a separate comment)
again…
Welcome.
I would like to know one thing, namely: I decided to try to shoot the movement of stars. Set the shooting at an interval of 30 shots after 5 seconds. Exposure time 30 sec. The camera stops after 3 shots. I turned off the noise, but the result is the same. I read that the camera does not have time to process the shots and turns off because of this. Is it tat? And is there a way to deal with this?
With uv. Sergei.
At slow shutter speeds, the camera writes a file from the buffer for a very long time, this is not only at 5100, many cameras behave this way.
But on the Internet there are photos taken by the series at slow shutter speeds and superimposed programmatically. Moreover, without gaps in the tracks, which means that they persisted for several seconds. Or were the gaps processed by editors?
From SW.
Read here, it may be useful, or maybe not. But I want to say that at 7100 it doesn’t do two frames at the same settings as yours, immediately after the first it is cut down. Even if the draft function is disabled, i.e. long exposure noise reduction.
http://spp-photo.ru/2015/03/22/kak-fotografirovat-mlechnyj-put-3/
And again, today I tried to shoot manually, in separate frames - exposure 3.30 min. and immediately after 2 sec. new frame, and so 10 times in a row. That is, it saves the picture instantly, but shooting with an interval of something is buggy. Or in the settings I do not understand.
From SW.
buy a remote control with a timer. it will be easier.
Yes, it’s not a matter of the timer, it’s just that this kind of shooting requires that the frames go one after the other with as little interval as possible. But the fact is that cameras with the noise reduction function turned on for long exposures, after they take a picture, say 10 seconds, then they think about it for another 12 seconds, write job and do not react to anything. Thus, immediately after the main frame, another one is made, the same, but with the shutter closed, to detect overheated pixels and reduce noise. It turns out that after 30 second exposure you need to wait up to 35 seconds to make the next frame. If you disable this function, then the camera is configured for any number of frames, disables time-lapse photography after one or three frames. Of course, provided that the interval between frames is less than the set shutter speed, for example 5 seconds or even 10.
And there is. Just tried a series of 10 frames, shutter speed 30 seconds, in the settings indicated an interval of 35 seconds. as a result, 30 sec exposure, 5 sec pause and a new frame. 10 frames drove with a bang.
Thank you all, figured it out.
From SW.
Good day to all!
If you are a weasel, you can set ISO in auto mode in M mode, especially when robots with "shovel" objects!
Crazy!
It won’t be :) with auto manuals, ISO is only available on those cameras that measure exposure with them.
A good device, for not very pros - a good number of megapixels, the skin does not turn green. He would have more focus points and the unit would have been the same!
Please tell me if the Nissin Speedlite Di600 Nikon flash is suitable
Under the flash, the fastest shutter speed of 1/200? In short, do not how?
With family outbreaks - nothing. You can cheat with non-relatives.
How to cheat, Arkady? Nikon D5100 slit shutter opens to its full width at a shutter speed of 1/200. Anything shorter will produce a dark underexposed band at the bottom of the frame. And the shorter the shutter speed, the wider the band. Is it possible to close with a piece of paper 2 front sync contacts of the flash socket, set the shutter speed to shorter than 1/200 and take 2 frames with synchronization along the front and rear curtains (a kind of bracketing on the curtain)))) This way we get 2 photos with an underexposed part in the lower and upper parts frame. And then dazzle these 2 photos in the editor.
At short distances with a manual flash, there will be no dark band until 1/250, with increasing distance the band will appear.
D5100, of course, has no FP mode (https://radojuva.com.ua/2011/05/flesh-dnem-kak-ispolzovat/) for slow shutter speeds, but you can use a trigger that can fire the flash in HS mode, such as https://radojuva.com.ua/2014/06/yongnuo-digital-yn-622n-tx/ The shooting technique is not simple, but still the result can be obtained even at 1/4000 s
Dyakuyu for the joy! Know the trigger on AlyExpres (kostu close to 1000 UAH.) I think that at the star of the Yongnuo 568 EX (tsei spalyh maє HSS mode) - we will recognize the miracle of the day.
the synchronizer will not help to make such an exposure on the D5100
I forgot to indicate that the flash is built-in. For macro photography, you will need to add a bit of light through the diffuser, but the shutter speed of 1/200 will be slightly more than necessary. And thanks for the answer.
I found a Chinese miracle - butt.blok for D5100-D5200 with the ability to power from 6 AA batteries. I ordered on Ali for $ 39. I'll get it, check the functionality - unsubscribe)))
The only question is why?
Weight is large, capacity is small.
Replacing batteries is inconvenient.
The number of batteries - 6 pieces - is inconvenient (charger, and a set - 4 pieces), for two sets you need 12 batteries and two charges (if 4 each).
I have a standard Chinese baht. unit for two EN-EL14 batteries + 4 batteries (1 original + 3 good Chinese). Enough for a long time. While discharging a couple of batteries, the second pair manages to charge in turn in one memory (if you release the shutter button :)
If your baht. the unit (under AA) cannot be supplied with the native EN-EL14, then replacing lithium batteries with finger batteries turns into a replacement for baht. block (or baht. blocks) - and this nifiga is not operational.
This model of the battery pack provides for the use of 6 AA batteries and 2 native batteries. And about the capacity of AA batteries - you are wrong. I have 12 Varta “Ready-to-use” batteries (model with reduced self-discharge current) of 2100 mAh each. 2100 (the total capacity of the accs connected in series) is clearly more than the native acca 1030 mAh. The mass of the whole thing - I agree with that. On the other hand, from the downward shift of the center of mass, the camera will not "peck" with a Soviet heavy lens like Jupiter 37A.
I answered you below.
And I also upgraded my D5100 and the batlock to it: I glued and soldered a pair of contacts in the battery compartment of the device and on the mate of the batlock, now the shutter button works without an additional wire.
The universal butblock is good, as soon as it comes - post its photo, if it's not difficult - the design is interesting.
The capacity of 2 × 1030 batteries will be the same two thousand mAh with a penny. But the weight of the two sets - compare 4 × En-El14 and 12 × AA :-)
The batblock itself will add a little weight - about 200 grams + extra. battery - about 40g. + balance shift down.
I have a Chinese batblock on the D7100, which can also accommodate 6 AA batteries. I compared the operating time from a ready-to-use battery pack with an honest capacity of 2200 and a native 1900 (I shot a video with the lens cover closed and AF disabled) - the operating time turned out to be exactly proportional to the capacity - that means everything is fair. But the increase is small, so I bought a Chinese battery En-El15, and pushed the AA adapter into the far corner - for traveling in remote villages, for example))
For urban conditions, weight is excessive. Especially if you put 70-300Vr (mind you - not very heavy glass) + on-camera puff - sometimes I even take off - D5100 from baht. block in this configuration weighs about 2 kg, D7100 - about 2,25
Tell me, does the grid in the viewfinder turn on in the D5100?
No, unfortunately it does not turn on.
Thank you, yes, unfortunately.
Focus points actually perform the role of the grid.
Dear Guru.
Please tell me if it is worth changing the "awl for soap", namely the D3100 to the D5100. I shoot mostly indoor interiors for http://www.rostov-derevo.ru/ My d 3100 in some cases is pretty noisy. In the arsenal I have SAMYANG 16/2, NIKKOR 35 / 1,8
For me, the main criterion is the quality of the picture and the flip-up screen (sometimes I run into walls). I'm looking closely at d 7100, but at the moment it's limited by budget.
Thank you in advance!
The quality of the picture and the folding screen is 5300, moreover, it is cheaper than 7100 and makes less noise at high ISO.
Although the problem is noise, it is relatively not difficult to solve with a good flash and softbox.
As far as I understand you correctly, in my case you can use the on-camera softbox. I have a flash of YN 560 (3). Softboxes of what sizes and manufacturers can you advise me?
What is an on-camera softbox?
It is advisable to set the flash from the side, so the light seems more natural. Any softbox, the main thing is that the size of the mount is suitable. Even umbrellas can be used, even for reflection, even for clearance. Ibei and aliexpress to help you.
Smoked, thanks a lot!
Finally I received a package from China via Ali - a baht block for a camera with the ability to power from 6 AA batteries or 2 native EN-EL14. Everything works !!! And from AA batteries / accs, and from relatives, and an additional shutter button, and even an IR remote control (the unit has its own sensor - it can be turned off as unnecessary with a slider to save energy). The signals from this remote control are incompatible with on-camera sensors. The signal to start focusing and release the shutter is transmitted to the camera via a short cable (which is typical for custom boosters). The stroke of the additional trigger button is the same stiffness and amplitude as the main one. The case is reliable: there are stiffeners inside; the mounting plate for the tripod socket has a metal base from the inside, which is pressed against the plastic with 4 screws. The grip with the camera is reliable, there is no backlash (unlike the bat. Block is simpler - Meike MK-D5100). The case is rubberized on 3 sides (just under the palm). The bottom of the unit has a recess with an eyelet for attaching a wrist strap. An interesting feature of the contact plates in the cells for the native batteries - there are only 3 of them, while the contacts in the EN-EL14 are 5. My camera firmware is not patched, stock, not weaned from the original chip batteries. How the Chinese managed to bypass the battery originality check at the moment of switching on is a mystery to me. With 6 AA NiMH batteries, the unit noticeably adds weight and the center of mass shifts downward, which stabilizes the camera. Such is the block. Photos attached
what is the name of?
Plain Chinese noname
In the QR code - a link to the store in AliExpress, where I ordered this block (may Arkady forgive me for advertising)
2
3
4
I am trying to take pictures with this camera. Can't beat the autofocus problem. Often misses. Lens 18/55 kit. A clear photo is guaranteed when using a flash, built-in or external - it doesn't matter. No flash 50/50. I tried different things - I clamped the aperture (8,9 ... and higher, I wanted to get out at the expense of the depth of field), I shot at short shutter speeds (200, 500 and higher, I wanted to exclude Shevelenka), point autofocus (so that for sure, victims ... the model in the eye) ... I have not tried manual focusing yet, left it as a last resort. Nothing helps. I will shoot 50 photos, autofocus peaks (no problem is pointed - the technician says), there is enough light, I photograph a person against the background of a landscape, as a result, when viewed on a computer monitor, the model's face is indistinct. Not that it seems blurred - clearly blurred. And in general, I look at the photo and think - okay, he didn't focus on his face, then what (damn it) did he focus on. And this happens regularly, a couple of shots are good, eight in the basket. You will shoot the "session", then you will be horrified when watching it on the computer. Can you tell me which way to move? I feel the technique is normal, the problem with the photographer :)
This is definitely not the norm. My d5100 was the first DSLR and it was just 18-55vr with it. I had a wow effect after the p500 superzoom. It's just really a shock - so sharp! So you have an obvious problem. If at a shutter speed of 1/500, low ISO up to 800 and an aperture of even 5.6 you have soap in place of autofocus, then this is a disaster. Center AF point? (side can smear). Place the center, carcass on a tripod or stable something (table, for example), make the model not move and click. If even in this case by, then an obvious jamb of either a carcass or glass. Try to go to the store to get another lens there for two minutes, or find some friend. If there is such a problem with the other, the point is in the carcass. As an option, if you have friends with photography experience - let them click, suddenly you really do something wrong (although it is unlikely).
I will try, thanks!
a problem can arise if you photograph a person whose dimensions, in the viewfinder, are commensurate with the size of the point or focus area. In this case, autofocus may be in focus on the landscape (infinity), and the person remains out of focus. Better put at least one photo to illustrate the problem.
Try to look for pens in LiveView and see the result, compare it with the result of autofocus. It’s better to do it on a tripod and take pictures of something that is not moving (as described above). Perhaps a strong back-front focus or marriage.
Addition to the previous comment.
Maybe I should not twitch at all and is this the norm for this technique?
Nikon D5100 camera, AF-S DX NIKKOR 18-55 F3.5-5.6G VR lens
so you show examples of photos at least
It has already been noted here, and I think that the problem is in the lens (18-55 VR, I don't know about VR - //, the previous 18-55 are better) - on some focal and some apertures it is soapy. And I noticed this at home, but not much. Try fix 35 / 1,8 or 50 / 1,8G, there should be a “wow” effect.
on a diaphragm closed to 5.6 centimeters, I don’t see a significant difference between them (when I photograph with a flash on the ceiling). but at f / 2.8 a fifty dollars like the picture more
Try shooting in the follow mode or when shooting 2,3 times, press the focus. If it doesn’t help, work with another lens. And still, test it only on the central point.
Thanks to everyone for the comments, I will try. I wanted to post unsuccessful photos right here, but it didn’t work out. I first got acquainted with the EXIF of these photos and realized that the photographer is still a krivoruk. Either the diaphragm (hole) was bolshevat, while still shooting from far away at a long focus, it seems that there was probably not enough light to allow autofocus to work out correctly. Nevertheless, I post one of the photos that didn’t suit me specifically in terms of sharpness. Photo parameters: 1/60 s, F 5.3, iso 160, f 46 mm + the built-in flash worked. I often get similar photos. And I don’t seem to shake hands, and I try to choose a reliable exposure. I can’t think about composition, color, light and so on. when not sure about the harshness. What is the point of all this if a clear image is unpredictable.
Well, he wouldn’t soap in the open, the cheapest whale.
At 1/60, there may already be a blur from movement / trembling hands. + It seems to me that there is a small back focus (it's hard to say with such a low resolution).
I agree. 1/60 for 46mm is not enough, the lubrication will be easy. Kostya, have you looked at the branches and the sofa behind the model? It seems to me they are sharper than the model (ie back focus) ... Maybe there the sharpness is hidden?
The sofa and vegetation are also fuzzy.
It may turn out by reference photo is better to consider
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3vca2LL5ytgajZQRDdJY2hpS28/view?usp=sharing
Another photo with a similar problem
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3vca2LL5ytgOUZCSGRLdEhqTlE/view?usp=sharing
The last one is focusing error. The camera focused on the landscape behind, not on the face. On the first, everything seems to be more or less horrible, there is little sharpness, maybe there is still blur, maybe your whale just removes it. I didn't have Nikonovskys - I can't estimate, there were similar photos on the old Canon. It feels like the lens was smeared with petroleum jelly ... Just in case, look at the lenses in front and behind, maybe you poked your finger. And see the work in LV - answered below.
So there is a flash mode, by default 1/60, so that the ZP is exposed and the highlighted object will be sharp.
Well, somehow he takes off. regular photo
+ try focusing on liveview with face recognition, compare. used focusing on the center point or not?
I'll try, liveview, be sure. However, it seems to me that this is of little help. Suppose a liveview picture is sharper (and this is most likely to happen, judging by local reviews), then I don’t have to always shoot in liveview after that? After the soap dish, I’m used to looking at the viewfinder.
I focus on the center point. I always try to do this. I used to try other points, or fix the focus and then compose the frame, but then I stopped this creativity - so there were problems with sharpness.
Most likely I rolled my lip too much. You are right, most likely this is the norm for this lens. It just takes a little more effort to get clear images than I initially thought. Thinking about shaking, avoiding short exposures, figuring out what aperture and focal length ... Is this how all photographers are constantly racking their brains, or is it already automatic, or is expensive equipment forgiving mistakes? ...
No, you will have to drag the device for adjustment. In LV, you get an image directly from the matrix and with manual focusing on a greatly enlarged fragment, you can ideally set focus with your hands. If the autofocus fails on the same frame, this is a reason to contact the service. If not, then there is no need to sin on autofocus. This is just a test
still try a shorter shutter speed and turn off the stabilizer
OK!