For the opportunity Nikon D5100 body camera review Many thanks to Sergey Svirida.
Nikon D5100 review
I want to write everything at once about the Nikon D5100 - it's just awesome multimedia harvester, which manages to squeeze just the prohibitive image quality. In this review, information is only about the camera itself Nikon D5100 body. Very often, the Nikon D5100 is sold along with universal lenses, and this set is called Kit. Usually in a set Nikon D5100 Kit such lenses as:
- Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G ED VR AF-S DX Nikkor
- Nikon 18-55mm f / 3.5-5.6G ED AF-S DX Zoom-Nikkor (or one of its 3 modifications)
- Nikon 18-200mm f / 3.5-5.6G IF-ED AF-S DX VR Zoom-Nikkorcan be met very rarely
- Nikon 55-200mm f / 4-5.6 AF-S VR DX Zoom-Nikkoras optional included
- Nikon 55-300mm f / 4.5-5.6G ED VR AF-S DX Nikkor as optional in kit
The best option is an 18-200mm lens, it is enough for all occasions - from a wide angle for a landscape or a small apartment, to photographing birds and bunnies. If you still need to start somewhere, then the kit lens 18-55m is quite suitable, and do not believe that the kit lens is so terrible, just important how to take pictures, and not on what technique. For portrait shooting, I advise you to look towards the lens Nikon 50mm f / 1.8G AF-S Nikkor, and as a good sharp fast aperture fixed lens for every day can act Nikon 35mm f / 1.8G AF-S DX Nikkor.
View of the Nikon D5100 camera from different angles
Nikon D5100 - This is an amateur SLR camera from Nikon, a highly updated version of the Nikon D5000. The camera can shoot Full HD video and take pictures at a speed 4 frames per second.
Sample photo on Nikon D5100
Important points:
Matrix Nikon D5100 matrix based Nikon D7000. The matrix Nikon D7000 can give out a picture high dynamic range, excellent color reproduction and low noise at high ISO. The Nikon D5100 does the same. When I took the first test shots on Nikon D5100 and ISO 6400, I was just amazed at the image quality. The result was really very juicy and lively picture, and this is at 16,2 megapixels, because in this review there are many night photos as examples. ISO camera can be set from value 100 to 25,600, values ISO 12.800. и ISO 25.600. are denoted as Hi1 и Hi2, I do not recommend shooting at such high ISO.
Nikon D5100 installed CMOS 16.2-megapixel sensor. Yes, the Nikon D5100 has as much as 16,2MP, which is the same as that of Nikon D7000 and full frame Nikon D4. More megapixels can only be found in the very expensive Nikon D3x, Nikon D800,D800E, D3200, D600, D5200 (at the time of writing). The number of megapixels is not a serious indicator of the quality of a photograph, but still, the more the better. If you are chasing megapixels, I advise you to pay attention to my note Battle of Megapixels. I shoot 6.2 megapixel without any problems Nikon D40I advise you to go to the review page Nikon D40 and make sure that even at 6.2MP you can get an excellent image result.
Nikon D5100 uses a sensor manufactured by Sony, the same sensor is found in cameras:
- Nikon D7000
- Pentax K-30
- Pentax K-5
- Pentax K-01
- Sony a580
- Sony A55
- Sony NEX-5N
Photo on Nikon D5100 - saturated colors of the camera
Actually, the matrix is the heart of the camera, and the better it is, the better your photographs will be. Nikon D5100 has the same matrix size as the more advanced ones Nikon D7000, D90, D300s. The Nikon D5100 APS-C sensor available, which means that the matrix is 2.25 times smaller in area than the matrix of full-frame SLR cameras, such as Nikon D700 or D3s. This entails an effect. crop factor. When using lenses from full-frame cameras, the viewing angle will be narrower than on film or in a full frame. More details in the article Crop Factor.
Sample photo on Nikon D5100
Other important points that really affect the operation and functionality of the camera
- Large rotary display. The display has 921.000 points. Nikon D5100 uses the same number of pixels as the camera D3, D3s, D3x, D700, D300, D300s, D90, D7000, D3200 и Nikon D5200
- Very fast EXPEED-2 processor, with which the camera shows excellent speed.
- Nikon D5100 uses 11 focus pointsfor which the focus module is responsible Nikon Multi-CAM 1000. The same module is on such cameras as Nikon D90, D3100, D3000, D80, D200 and D5000. Focusing is accurate. Focusing speed is highly dependent on the lens and shooting conditions.
- Measurement exposure implemented using a 420-pixel sensor, the same as that of Nikon D80, D90, D60, D40x, D50, D5000 and D3100. The camera measures the exposure perfectly, the only one, because Active is on D-lighting the camera sometimes exposes the frame.
- The shooting speed is 4 frames per second. This is just a little less than 4.5 fps for a more advanced Nikon D90. 4 fps is enough for any type of shooting. Even a full-frame professional Nikon D800 can shoot a maximum of 4k \ s. Personally, I always have enough even 2.5 frames per second on my old woman Nikon D40. A high rate of fire is needed only for certain situations. A high rate of fire requires a large frame buffer and a fast memory card. For example, when I reviewed the Nikon D5100, the camera used a slow 8GB SD flash drive. Since I was shooting in RAW for review, the camera was very slow after 2 seconds of shooting in fast mode. Due to the fact that RAW files from the camera weigh about 15mb, I had to wait a very long time until the files were written to the memory card. Indeed, the whole charm of fast continuous shooting at 4 fps can be estimated by shooting only in JPEG.
- Frame buffer when shooting in RAW format is 11 frames. This is as much as that of Nikon D90 when shooting in RAW. How much the camera will slow down during serial shooting will greatly depend on the buffer capacity. In an earlier model Nikon D3100, frame buffer is 13 pieces in RAW.
- Attention: Nikon D5100 Nikon's first amateur camera to use RAW with 14 bit color depth. This is very good news for fans of processing RAW photos. Unfortunately, like all Nikon amateur cameras, the D5100 does not have a choice of RAW compression levels or a choice of color depth.
Example photo on the Nikon D5100. Snowy glass.
- Full HD movie shooting 1980 * 1080, with maximum quality you can shoot videos up to 20 minutes long. Believe me, 20 minutes is enough for the video. You can choose different shooting modes in different quality. Another important detail to shoot video on the desired aperture, you first need to install it, and therefore already enable Live View and start recording. When Live View is on, aperture change is not available.
- Convenient menu and overall camera ergonomics. At first, it might seem that controlling the camera with one hand is difficult, but then you can quickly get used to the control.
Example photo on Nikon D5100 at high ISO
- A bunch of useful additions - automatic correction of distortion, aberration, Active D-lighting, Breckening, Live View, Timelapse, etc. Important! Automatic correction of distortion and chromatic aberration is removed only when shooting in JPEG.
- The camera has one great feature - HDR. HDR takes two frames with different exposures and saves them in one file. Very comfortable and interesting. The HDR function is not available when shooting in RAW. The HDR function is conveniently programmed with the FN button.
Example photo on Nikon D5100 at very high ISO
- A little about the shortcomings - this is an amateur camera, because in the camera no many features from more advanced or professional cameras. Personally very important to me fast flash sync, flash command modeFine tune focus manual exposure metering and availability focus motor - Nikon D5100 doesn't have them. Highly I consider “picture braking” a strong drawback when sighting through Live View and approaching the image area 1 to 1 (or similar) - the picture slows down quite a lot. There is no such effect on Nikon D90. Such an approximation helps to very accurately sharpen the desired focus point.
All sample photos on the Nikon D5100 from this review were shot in RAW -> JPEG, without processing, only resized to 720 * 477 pixels with imprinted EXIF in order to be able to judge the shooting parameters. Please note that at high ISO photos are more or less acceptable.
Example photo on the Nikon D5100. Loss of juiciness of the color gamut when raising ISO
Recommendations
In order to speed up focusing, use the optical viewfinder. When focusing in Live View, the focusing accuracy will be very high, but the speed will be very slow, since the camera and the lens will need to measure contrast at different focusing distances and only then put the lens in the desired position. When focusing through the optical viewfinder (through the eye), the camera is much quicker to cope with focusing. It is for this reason that older cameras such as Nikon D300, D300s, D700 etc., there are two Live View shooting modes. These are tripod mode and hand mode. In hand-held mode and Live View on, when you press the shutter button halfway, Live View turns off and autofocusing occurs through the phase sensors, after a successful focus is achieved, Live View turns on again.
Photo at Nikon D5100 at low ISO in low light
If desperately needed maximum frame buffer, then you need to turn off all functions that reduce the number of photos in the buffer. I think you will be surprised when in paragraph 5 it is written about 11 frames in the buffer, but in reality there will be less of them. The number of frames that the buffer can fit is shown in the lower right corner of the viewfinder when you press the shutter button halfway. Usually, with noise reduction turned on for high ISOs and slow shutter speeds, as well as when active D-lighting the number of frames in the buffer drops sharply. Therefore, by disabling these functions you can get the claimed 11 frames. Well, if you do not need RAW, then in high-quality JPEG with advanced settings enabled 16 frames - and this is for 4 seconds of continuous shooting. It is unlikely that someone takes a burst of longer than 4-5 seconds.
Photo on Nikon D5100
When you place the camera in a case (in a photo bag), turn the display with the dark side out, and the LCD monitor in the middle so that the monitor does not scratch during transportation. If shooting in JPEG, I recommend turning on noise reduction at high ISOs and slow shutter speeds. For a saturated picture you can use Active D-lighting in HIGH mode. You can also configure the FN programmable button, which is located next to the flash up button. I usually program the FN button for the ISO control function.
Sample photos on Nikon D5100 using a lens Nikon 50mm f / 1.8G AF-S Nikkor. Photos without processing.
Don't know what to choose?
Usually, a person who wants to buy a camera of this level stops at 2-3 Nikon models. it Nikon D3100, Nikon D5000, Nikon D5100, D5200. I recommend taking a simpler model Nikon D3100, which can do the same thing as the D5100, but its price is much less. D5100 is more suitable for those who like to shoot in poor lighting conditions at high ISO. Saturation and image quality on the D5100 and D3100 very similar to low and medium ISO. Of course newer Nikon D5200 in many ways beats the Nikon D5100.
| D5000 | D5100 | D5200 | |
| Exit time | June 2009 | April 2011 | November 2012 |
| RAW color depth | 12 bit | 14 bit | 14 bit |
| Number of megapixels | 12,20 | 16,08 | 24,00 |
| Burst Speed | 4 fps | 4 fps | 5 fps |
| Minimum ISO | 200,00 | 100,00 | 100,00 |
| Minimum Extensive ISO | 100 (Lo1) | - | - |
| Maximum ISO | 3200,00 | 6400,00 | 6400,00 |
| Maximum Extended ISO | 6400 (Hi1) | 25600 (Hi2) | 25600 (Hi2) |
| Video length max. qualities | 5 minutes | 20 minutes | 20 minutes |
| Video | 1280 x 720 24fps | 1920x1080 30fps | 1920 x 1080 60i |
| Sound | mono | mono | stereo |
| Display | 2.7 inches, 230.000 points | 3 inches, 921.000 points | 3 inches, 921.000 points |
| Focus module | Multi-cam 1000 | Multi-cam 1000 | Multi-CAM 4800DX |
| Number of Focus Points | 11,00 | 11,00 | 39,00 |
| Measurement exposure | 420-pixel RGB sensor | 420-pixel RGB sensor | 2016-pixel RGB sensor |
| Memory cards | SD,SDHC | SD, SDHC, SDXC | SD, SDHC, SDXC (UHS-I) |
| Weight without battery, g | 550,00 | 510,00 | 505,00 |
| HDR | no | Yes | Yes |
I do not recommend buying an older Nikon D5000, it does not have autofocus when shooting video, and it is quite difficult for an ordinary user to focus on sharpness manually.
By the way here a list of all CZKs from Nikonmaybe he will help in choosing.
Photo on Nikon D5100
Prices for modern Nikon cameras in popular stores can look at this link.
Comments on this post do not require registration. Anyone can leave a comment. Many different photographic equipment can be found on AliExpress.
Conclusions
Nikon D5100 gives a very good picture one click on the shutter button. Camera for photo lovers who just need a good result in a photo without unnecessary troubles. Full HD and a swivel display makes the camera even more attractive. Given that the camera has a matrix of very high quality Nikon D7000then Nikon D5100 can be used by advanced amateurs as well.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram
Colleagues, help. I tried to attach Nikon 5100/105/2 MF to the Nikon d5, now I can not remove it. The diaphragm ring is in position 32.
Stripped off. Wow!
Hello. I understand that 5 years have passed since the review and you may not answer, but the question arose about choosing a lens. I choose between 50 and 35 and it turned out there are a lot of options. Definitely looking for AF-S; here everything is clear to me about working autofocus. And about DX not really. If I liked the result of shooting with an AF 50 mm 1: 1.8 D lens, is it the same as the AF-S 50 mm 1: 1.8G DX? Confusing: 50 mm full-frame crop matrix cut and get 50 = 85, and if he gives a DX lens 50 = 50?
Now the choice is between
AF-S 50 f: 1.8 G DX 11 000 rub
AF-S 35 f: 1.8 G DX 10 300 rub
To begin with, AF-S 50 mm 1: 1.8G DX does not happen, it happens AF-S 50 mm 1: 1.8G.
Secondly, the focal length of the lens is the focal length of the lens, and it does not matter whether it is DX or not, if you put the focal length on a crop camera you still need to recalculate it.
AF-S 35 f: 1.8 G DX will be 35mm * 1,5 = 52,5mm
AF-S 50 f: 1.8 G will be 50mm * 1.5 = 75mm
AF 50 mm 1: 1.8 D will be 50mm * 1.5 = 75mm
Thus, according to the angle of the field of view, AF 50 mm 1: 1.8D will be identical to AF-S 50 f: 1.8 G, despite the fact that the crop is in full frame.
Many thanks. So the store seller messed up something, saying that both 35 and 50 DX. And he suggested taking 35 because they are from 50 supposedly the same, in the sense that he took a step forward with 35 and the picture will turn out like 50. But I haven’t read about this in more than one article.
check out the sigma 35mm f / 1.4 DG HSM ART - after nikkors you will be pleasantly surprised with your camera. True, it costs more money
AF-S 35 f: 1.8 G DX will be 35mm * 1,5 = 52,5mm
Why are you introducing people to fornication! What are 52mm? An objective labeled DX is already made for the crop, so AF-S 35 f: 1.8 G DX on the crop will be 35mm
It's about EGF. 35 on the crop will give the same viewing angle as 52,5 on the full frame. DX means only the area of the matrix, does not affect the focal length.
I think this topic with a misunderstanding regarding the recalculation of EGF will be eternal :)))))
Amen)
If you compare the Nikon d5100 and Nikon d90 when choosing the first SLR camera, what can you advise? Or pay attention to the d3200-3300 model? Thanks.
d5100
pros:
- a lot in the secondary market in a more or less normal condition (used mainly by amateurs, who then either quickly scored at 5-10 thousand frames, or moved to more advanced models)
- rotary screen (very handy thing)
Cons:
- not enough external controls (not critical)
- no screwdriver
d90
pros:
- management
- screwdriver
- add. screen
Cons:
- the model is older, more often bought by people who shoot a lot, i.e. - mileage
As for the picture, noise, etc. - it all depends to a greater extent on the photographer (shooting parameters and subsequent processing).
And as for the first DSLR in general - used and cheaper (if only everything worked). Then you will figure it out)
Thanks, got it)
Took Nikon D5100, mileage 5224 photos, excellent condition for 6400 UAH.
Congratulations! Have a good shot!
Thank you)
Can you please tell me how the automatic distortion correction function is implemented? Is the correction performed during the picture, or, as in the D90, as a separate item in the menu?
first thing. but the second is also possible (in processing the image)
Thank you!
Good day. I have this device. Such a problem ... When photographing in manual mode, the camera itself selects the ISO depending on the shooting conditions. It costs iso, say, 100, and the camera overestimates as it sees fit ... This is the case with the lenses Jupiter 37a and Nikon 18-105. Although it works great with Nikon 105 f2.5ai, I will expose it and take pictures as well.
Maybe someone knows what it is and how to “fight”? Thanks.
see auto-iso
4 years ago I took my daughter such a device + 35 1.8G DX. The technician himself is more serious. I look at her photo and envy the color rendition. As a result, while not using it, I took off the 35 1.8 and put on my sigma 35 1.4 ART, with the help of specialized software I fine-tuned AF (there was front focus) for myself (my family), and also when the situation allows, now I shoot only for them. The quality of the "camera" jpeg is good enough, but still I shoot in nef, and developing the source from this camera is just a pleasure. Colors are lovely. Skinton is lovely. And by default, when you open a file in ACR or RPP, the picture is completely different for the better relative to the d800 source. I still need to create a profile using colorchecker ...
But, returning to d800, as if you are returning from the village to civilization :)
Try the D7000 - the matrix is like in the D5100 and the controls are at least semi-pro.
And the monstrous cadaveric greens of the image.
Reminded a joke about Rabinovich and the Beatles ...
or about Zeperovich and Caruso :)
Yes, if only as in a joke, but I shot a year on d7000
I took longer on the D7000. I did not observe any “cadaverous greenery”.
The camera can be configured, select BB.
However, he did not want to offend anyone's religious feelings))))
Color perception is an individual thing. And you get used to everything quickly. But when you shoot at the same time on d7000 and on an old Canon 40d, the difference in color seems colossal. And, alas, not in favor of Nikon. Although, I will not argue, canon is inferior in DD, in noise too, and Nikon's “box” itself is very good. For example, take a look at this very site reviews 40d and d7000 (in terms of color, of course, this is a camera of different generations) - you will understand what I experienced.
I also shot and shoot with D7000 / D5100 for a long time, and I am also pleasantly surprised by the color rendition (_ especially - no matter how strange it may sound, to skin tone_). I like it even more than the new top Nikons (but a little less than the Canon). And for sure - no hint of green at the default settings, believe me. I fully admit the thought that your particular specimen (or even some large batch) has problems with the BB, but again, believe me - not everyone is so, and it's not in the eyes. The only (!) Problem with the color is if you pull strongly in the shadow developer - they begin to acquire a lilac color.
I agree. After 20d I can't get used to d5100. The picture quality is better at high ISO, it stretches better. But no matter how I try to fall in love, Nikon does not come out. 20d just makes nikon by color. And I get what I need without dancing in a couple of clicks ACR.
In fairness, I must say that I have A1M1 in the thin settings of the BB
To be honest, I have been looking at fujifilm with special attention lately .. But while 5100 is alive, most likely I will not twitch - the need to spend 150t.r. on fujifilm. (desired set) encourages people to come to terms with some inconveniences 5100
Arkady day is good and everyone who also helps in the creation of this site! Thank you for your hard work and sharing your experience !! Please advise. I have a 5100, I have a kit lens of 18-55mm, and my adored prime is 50mm. Recently, I have been posting pictures on stocks, but this is so for interest and in consolidated time. We are going to the ocean, mountains, nature - I just want to buy a new lens and it hurts :) well, I want beautiful and high-quality photos. In general, I have already read so many articles - in my case, nature, ocean, mountains, what is the best way to photograph? Whale or all the same at least fixed?
The whale zoom can cover a wider angle at the focal length of 18mm, which is a must for landscape photography. Especially for landscapes min. difaragma 1,8 for fix is not particularly needed. But the whale is afraid of backlighting and gives off a veil when reflected light from the sky hits, from which even a hood will not always save (the number of lenses is greater than that of a fixer). In this case, a polarizing filter can help, making the sky from a faded whitish blue saturated. It is not necessary to buy an expensive imported radial polarizer. Enough of the old Soviet PF 3x with a M52x0,75 landing thread (as a native one suitable for a whale zoom). If you use a fix, you may have to shoot a photo in panoramic mode, followed by stitching the photo on a computer in an editor like Panorama maker. But during shooting, do not forget to hold down the AE-Lock button so that the exposure of all frames of the panorama is the same. Considering the mass limit of a photo bag for hiking in the mountains, I would still take both the fix and the 18-55 zoom, because they are both light and small. Fix - for portraits and bokeh against the background of mountains, flowers, berries in macro mode. And the zoom is for everyday shooting. But from now on I advise you to sell the 18-55 zoom and buy a used 18-105. It is more versatile, and allows you to get by on the hike
one to them.
Thank you very much Taras for the extensive answer !!! I will try to put all the recommendations into practice and be sure to share the result :)
You are welcome. I like to shoot landscapes and macro)))
PS forgot to say for a gradient gray filter, which helps to make the sky properly exposed and not lose detail in the shadows on the mountain slopes. But this is all additional. spending, extra glands in the bag. The main thing is to shoot with your heart, not with pixels, and transfer the beauty of the world and emotions to the photo.
Maybe you should not sell 18-55? For macro shooting, probably only Soviet rangefinder lenses are cheaper. I sold it myself, then I bought another one (though much cheaper), when I needed to photograph old coins. As a result, I mainly use 18-105, of course, but 18-55 is just in case. Besides, you won’t help much for him.
I do not agree
my 16-85 is not afraid of backlight (only catches small hares), I don’t put a hood, I can cover it with my hand
and at 50F / 1.8G the contrast noticeably decreases even with a hood
Please help me, I’m renting a client dmu which is better suited nikon 5100 or canon 550? thanks
What are you shooting? And what are you shooting now? What is approximately a budget?
Now d90 + 28-80 budget to. 7000 I rent newborns at the customer’s home.
But. And what does 90 do not suit you? I have N.28-80 (on d50 and on d200 it is not very bad), there is also d5100, I don’t put 28-80 on it because of its lack of motors, I will tell you that I prefer not to take pictures of people, incl. children d5100 - the complexion is somewhat harsh, it can go pink, with high-aperture optics (35 / 1,8DX) is better, but at best - as in reality, but with CCD carcasses it can be interesting, unusual. I didn’t shoot on Canon, they say there is no ordinary skin tone either, but “commercial”, I don’t know. I wish I could ask the Pastor, Mr. Pastor, please respond! Or maybe you have a lighter lens, the same 35 / 1,8 (depending on which focal lengths you use).
I will add that I am not a professional, so treat my IMHO accordingly.
Just kapets! People don’t read the articles about their cameras and lenses here, or photoliterature! But also the Instructions for the camera! But in the same place: photos for photo stocks, do photosets, I don't know much about the technique, but I photograph christenings. I'm already a pro, should I change 5100 to 610 and so on ...
Well ladies, but they, it seems, by definition are not techies, but artists. I have never seen a woman read the instructions for, say, a meat grinder - show me how she is going and where to press, and I will create.
Good afternoon!
I have a Nikon D5100 camera. When photographing, I very often change the number of focus points. In this model, this can only be done through the menu. This is extremely inconvenient.
Please tell me in which models of Nikon cameras you can change the focus points using the buttons (or a special button, or using the programmable Fn button).
First of all, budget models of cameras like Nikon D90 are of interest (if there is such a button). Thank you in advance for your response.
Where there is “my menu”, which is called by the programmable button. There are d700, I don't know about others.
Thank you Alexey!
In March of last year, I annoyed me with questions on this site about the sharpness of photographs taken with a Nikon D5100 with an 18/55 Kit lens. Having experimented enough, I came to the conclusion that it is possible to shoot decently, in particular in terms of sharpness, with this device. You just need to better prepare for shooting, think over everything in advance, check the camera settings. The main thing that helped to achieve sharpness in the pictures is a faster shutter speed (no longer than 160), albeit at the expense of ISO, and the advice (I don't remember where I read it from) is to shoot slowly, pressing the shutter, trying not to “shake”, while after taking a picture a couple of seconds wait frozen. In the "piccha control" mode, the sharpness slightly raised. After that, there really were more high-quality pictures.
The built-in flash suddenly stopped popping out (Nikon D5100). I sin on wet weather. Not that I photographed in a downpour, but it was drizzling a little. Obviously, you need to carry it to the service. But maybe there is some simple, everyday way to revive the flash? You never know suddenly ...
I tried to slip a strip of film and press on the hook, holding the flash a little with my finger ...
Nope, it doesn’t work. but in general of course it would be a good way to repair the camera at home after rain
Should I change the D5100 for something better? Or is it better to invest in optics? It seems to be understandable that it’s not worth it, but pulls on the OLX to look at the D7000, D7100, D90.
Or if you spend money, is it already on a full frame?
Everything very much depends on the tasks.
Tasks - shooting family, friends (not commerce), attempts at creativity. In general for myself for fun.
Then I see no reason in the throes of choice and renewal. It’s better to invest in lenses, in practice (go to a good studio to shoot a family for the New Year), etc.
Understood thanks. And as an auxiliary number two - should you buy the D90?
I don’t see the point. It’s better to invest in lenses. Why two cameras from the last generation?
With d90, the pictures will not get better.
Thanks! All now I have finally stopped the "agony of choice". :)
During the operation of your D5100, a malfunction appeared. When the built-in flash was turned on, it stopped flashing. On examination, I discovered that the spring pushing the flash must have weakened, and the flash does not rise fully under its action. And in the end, probably some kind of microswitch does not turn on or off. Literally 1 or 2 millimeters. If you move the raised flash to the stop with your hand, everything flashes normally.
Who has not encountered such a malfunction? In principle, you can live with it. But can there be a quick fix?
If you remove the flash cover, you can see the place where there was a small pimp (and if you remove it carefully, you can find the pimp itself) that held the spring. Either the fallen off native is glued, or something resembling it. After the spring starts, the cover is put on ...
Surprisingly, the poor quality of the rubber pads on both the lenses and Nikon carcasses.
Hands should be wiped after barbecue. I don’t notice this on my own. But on the lens 18-105 with the hands of the gum was swollen. Soaked in gasoline, the 4th year nothing thumps. I don’t like the inscriptions on the buttons, the fingers of the worker, the inscriptions are erased very quickly.
Good evening, the problem with the rubber bands, how did you restore them?
The rubber band is soaked in gasoline "galosh". Then they are glued to the same place.
I understand that the review is not new, but suddenly I'm lucky ...
I have this camera with whale 18-55. And I don't know which TV set to take to her - I'm more for reportage shooting, sometimes the whale one no longer reaches ((
Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 55-200mm 1: 4-5.6G ED VR-II IF SWM (Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 55-200mm 1: 4-5.6G ED VR IF SWM1 is that the same?) - ok will fit?
Thanks in advance for your reply)
55-300 say better. Read, here are the reviews you are interested in
55-200 VR II is better
Yes, the same one will do. You can still look at 55-300 and Sigma 70-300 OSThey are not very expensive.
Oh, I just looked after this Sigma there! Although not my own, I have to choose from what I have enough money for ... But a full-frame one, which for my crop will be like a super-duper telephoto for all squirrels and birds) And a full frame (if I get hold of them) will do.
It will be great. Personally, I would prefer Sigma over my native 55-300
Anastasia, 55-200 for reporting is not very convenient, for reporting on the street (such as a picnic, the beach) 18-105 (etc.) is more convenient, universal.
If “sometimes the whale falls short”, then 18-55 are in demand. In this case, I would look towards 18-105… 200.
Kaleinar 5N with dandelion)))
Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 55-200mm 1: 4-5.6G ED VR IF SWM1
Take the Nikon 55-200mm VR.
JAJAJA
Hello. I wanted to know why the viewfinder on the D3100 and others and 5100 and others, and now the 5600 series is too small compared to the D90, D7000 and others. It is clear that “they did it”, but no one writes about it. Is there a review about the D 5200 and another question - is it possible to programmatically adjust the sharpness of the D5200. Everywhere they write only about the D5100.
Thank you.
Probably because of the class of cameras. Why do amateur as semi-professional? Net savings.
Can.
Is there currently not a expensive, but decent (sharply shooting) lens to the D 5300 or D5200, in a volume of 24 tons of pixels. Maybe something from Sigma or Tamron. Need a small take-off, say 35-80, 18-75 or within these limits. Of course with autofocus., So as not to twist.
What native 18-105 does not suit? Sometimes it’s hard for me to immediately determine if a photo with a pressed aperture was taken on 35 / 1.8 or 18-105, especially after resizing. With good lighting, full-time zoom gives good results.
I compared 18-105 with D 90, with D7000 and D 5200. It seems to me that 18-0105 is somehow sharpened for a small number of pixels. On the D90, just perfect sharpness, straight cilia ... On the D7000 it is a little less confident, under the same conditions, but on the D 5200 it seems to be completely soapy. Native 18-55 is sharper. But I miss the run. At least up to 80. So I think that something budget, but a little sharper for 5200. Sigma, Tamron, something else. Quietly I hope - can I eat?
Nikon 16-85mm.
Good evening everyone! I would like to shoot Venus, Saturn and other stars in the sky. I can’t shoot a JVC EVERIO video camera, although the moon is gorgeous! I would like to choose from medium ones, but with a viewfinder eye, since I do not see it at all on the screen.
What do you recommend for stars?
Telescope. True i'm not joking
Venus and Saturn are not stars, especially not others.
And so to the DSLR, just imagine, the size of the lens for single celestial objects will be like a pipe. In general, a full-fledged telescope is needed.
Hobby colleagues! Maybe someone has an electronic version of 4-hour video tutorials or a tutorial for the photographer, etc. If someone shares, thank you in advance! My email post office tuzoo@bk.ru
V.P. Mikulin, “25 lessons of photography”. https://www.litmir.me/bd/?b=151028
Found an old UFO flash, can i use it with nikon d5100? It is clear that TTL will not, but it is still more powerful than the built-in. The instructions written are not recommended. thanks
Use is possible if you can flash voltage (which must be measured) is within the tolerance requirements for Nikon cameras. However, taking risks does not make any sense. Firstly, the camera can be burned. Secondly, many old flashes have a simple design and do not provide any improvement.
Thank you, the risk is not justified.
Very convenient function of fixing the exposure when half-pressing the trigger. Helps focusing on a center point with recomposing the frame. But the exposure metering through the viewfinder is lying at 0.7 compared to the showers. We have to increase the exposure in the light room. Maybe this is only my copy.
Probably yours. I set the exposure to -0,3 -0,5, the shadows are easier to pull up than the shaded light.
There is no exposure metering through the viewfinder. I don’t really believe that he was “lying”. There are a lot of scene features and parameters that affect the exposure by the device. The longer you use the camera, the better you understand why in some conditions it gives under-light, and in others, overexposure. For example, with matrix metering for automation, all objects in the frame are significant, but not for the photographer. The camera's algorithm sets the exposure in order to maximize the entire scene, and the photographer can easily agree with the loss of some part of it, but disagree with the main subject being shaded or overexposed. You need to be able to change the metering methods and make adjustments depending on what you are shooting.
Yes, it was fine with me. But, if you fix the camera, the exposure meter through the viewfinder shows a shutter speed of 1/30, for example, and when switching to live view without changing the settings - 1/20. During subsequent processing, it is not critical (even possibly better), but “the sediment remained” :)