Canon EOS 5D with lens Canon Macro Lens EF 100mm 1: 2.8 L IS USM
Canon EOS 5D - this is a legendary old full frame semi-professional camera (or advanced amateur - as it is convenient to count), which was produced from 2005 to 2008. My version made in japan. Canon 5D became the third camera after Canon EOS 1DS и Canon EOS 1Ds Mark II with a full-frame sensor, the Canon EOS 5D is the first in a new class of professional cameras with a lightweight body (often referred to as 'semi-pro'). Canon EOS 5D has direct descendants: this 5D MarkII, 5D Mark III и 5D Mark IV... Canon EOS 5D is often referred to simply as'first dime'or' 5D classic '.
The Canon EOS 5D has a 13.3 MP CMOS sensor, of which only 12.8 MP, which by today's standards is not so much, but 12.8 MP is enough for comfortable shooting of most photo tasks. I rarely find it necessary to use cameras with a large number of megapixels. Canon EOS 5D Captures Images 4368 by 2912 pixels (total - 12.719.616 pixels), which is enough to print pictures even on the A3-A4 format. I rarely print pictures larger than 20 x 30 cm.
Canon EOS 5D can use ISO from 100 to 1600 and expand the range to a value ISO L (ISO 50), ISO H (ISO 3200). Today you won’t surprise anyone with ISO 3200, even modern Canon cropped cameras with APS-C format sensors, for example Canon 650D, can overclock their ISO up to 25.600. But still, I want to pay tribute to the old lady Canon EOS 5D: unlike the 'inflated' ISO values of many cropped cameras, the Canon EOS 5D can actually use its ISO 1600 and even ISO 3200. In terms of noise level, the Canon EOS 5D still bypasses a lot. (if not all!) cropped cameras, such as Canon 7D, Nikon D300, Pentax K5, Sony SLT-A65 etc.
Canon 5D with booster and Canon Lens EF 50mm 1: 1.4 lens
Canon EOS 5D can shoot at speed 3 frames per second. Some argue that the speed is around 3.5 to \ s. The camera shows in the lower right corner. frame bufferequal to 9 shots (8 frames when using the ISO extended range function), but when shooting in Drive mode, you can take about 17-20 pictures in RAW format until the camera starts to slow down. In JPEG L mode, a series of shots reaches 60 frames. Generally, pretty large real frame buffer I was pleasantly surprised.
But when shooting in RAW + JPEG mode, after filling in the frame buffer, the camera goes into a stupor for a long time. In this mode, the buffer is 12 shots, the camera takes the next frame in only 10-15 seconds, which is an eternity! Using a fast memory card does not solve the problem.
Canon EOS 5D can use RAW (CR2) format only with 12 bit depth of color. RAW (CR2) files average 11 to 19 MB. JPEG L files are 2 to 10 MB on average. Canon EOS 5D uses fast cards CF. My Canon EOS 5D easily made friends with a memory card CF Transcend 32GB 400x and Transcend 32GB 133x.
Important: The data recording speed, which depends on the camera itself, is very low on the Canon EOS 5D and this cannot be corrected by using a faster memory card. One RAW file weighing about 10 MB, the camera records about one second even with the fastest CF cards.
Canon 5D Display
I liked the Canon EOS 5D excellent ergonomicsa, large monochrome backlit secondary display. The camera weighs about 900 grams with the battery and without the lens. Almost a kilogram of weight is not scary. Canon EOS 5D does not have a dust and water resistant body. Camera display 2.5 inch with 230.000 points. When working with the display, I noticed that it reproduces the real color rather poorly in the obtained photos - it is too faded. The camera's menu is quite simple, it is very easy to understand it, in this camera it became available in Russian as well.
Canon EOS 5D supports shutter speeds from 30 s to 1 \ 8000 s. For measuring exposure 35-zone sensor responds, a large number of amateur Canon cameras have a similar sensor, more about it here.
Canon 5D has just 9 focus points (and 6 more invisible auxiliary)... In the Custom Functions menu, I recommend adjusting the focus point selection with the joystick. You can read more about the focusing system installed on the Canon 5D in the 'Canon EOS Camera Focus Sensors'.
But the Canon 5D has a good large optical viewfinder with 96% coverage, working with such a viewfinder is pretty nice. The battery holds up to 1000 shots, which is pretty good.
Sample Photos
All sample photos located in the gallery below were obtained using a Canon EOS 5D camera and lens YONGNUO 50mm 1: 1.4. Some photos were taken using a polarizing filter. HOYA 58mm PL-CIR.
Personal experience
Canon EOS 5D can be regarded as used. camera option for people who want to immediately start shooting at full frame. In nature there is no cheaper and more practical option for a full-frame camera. Although, for about the same cost you can find Canon EOS-1DS. Personally, I think Canon EOS 5D is preferable Canon EOS-1DS due to its smaller size, lithium-ion battery, larger display, larger frame buffer, more adequate work with memory cards and, most importantly, more flexible capabilities for processing RAW files.
Among the shortcomings of the Canon EOS 5D, I would like to note the absence of the Live View mode, which is very useful when working with manual optics, and the small number of focus points. At the same time, the camera does not have fine adjustment of automatic focus. True, Canon EOS 5D supports replacement focusing screens.
Many people complain that the camera sensor gets dirty quickly - Canon EOS 5D does not have a matrix cleaning system. Also in the camera no HDR, built-in flash, automatic ISO control in modes P, Av, Tv, M and many modern 'gadgets'. Many photographers have easily and painlessly switched to Canon 5D after crop cameras. Personally, I liked the color rendering of the Canon 5D much more than the color rendering on my 'workhorse' - Nikon D700.
At one time, I made a mistake - instead of Canon EOS 5D (even in the used version) I bought another cropped camera. Now i highly recommend to all novice photographers who are limited in funds and who do not need various 'gadgets', including video filming, instead of buying a 'mediocre' cropped camera, get a used one. Canon EOS 5D (not new). I think that for the growth of a photographer, immediately shooting in full frame is very, very important and useful. If you are looking for some interesting and inexpensive camera with a 'beautiful pattern', then I recommend looking at the 'Legends go to battle', as well as 'Full Frame with 28 megapixels for 240 cu :)'
More examples of photos, as well as source files in RAW format, can be viewed or downloaded in the following reviews:
- In my gallery at 500px
- In the video review
- Yongnuo 35mm 1: 1.4
- YONGNUO LENS YN50mm F1.4
- ASAHI OPT. CO., JAPAN SMC PENTAX-M 1: 1.7 50mm
- SMC PENTAX 1: 1.8 / 55 ASAHI OPT. CO., JAPAN
- Canon Zoom Lens EF 20-35mm 1: 3.5-4.5 Ultrasonic (there are examples at high ISO values)
- Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1: 1.4 / 50 ASAHI OPT. CO., JAPAN
- Canon Macro Lens EF 100mm 1: 2.8 L IS USM
- Carl Zeiss Makro-Planar 1: 2,8 f = 100mm T *
- Carl Zeiss Sonnar 2.8 / 135 T * (C / Y)
- EBC Fujinon.Z 1: 4.5 / 75-150 Fuji Photo Film Co. Lens-japan
- Vivitar 75-205mm 1: 3.8 Close Focusing Auto Zoom
- Hanimex Automatic 1: 2.8 f = 100mm (there are portraits)
- Sigma 70-200mm 1: 2.8 APO EX HSM (portraits available)
- MC Helios-44M-4 58mm 1: 2
- Auto Super-Lentar 1: 2.8 f = 35mm
- Travenar wide auto 1: 2.8 f = 28mm (colorful photos)
- Era-6M 1,5 / 50
- Nippon Kogaku Japan Micro-Nikkor Auto 1: 3.5 f = 55mm
- TAIR-3-FS 4,5 / 300
- Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1: 4 / 200 ASAHI OPT. CO., JAPAN
- Vivitar 17MM 1:3.5 AUTO WIDE-ANGLDE
- A. Schacht Ulm Edixa-Mat-Travenar-A 1:3,5/135
- Olympus OM-System G.Zuiko Auto-S 1:1.4 f=50mm
- Olympus OM-System E.Zuiko Auto-T 1:2.8 f=100mm
- Olympus OM-System Zuiko MC Auto-W 1:2.8 f=28mm
- Spiratone Tc 1:2.8 f=135mm Japan
- FUJINON 1:1.4/50 FUJI PHOTO FILM CO. LENS-JAPAN
- LEITZ CANADA SUMMICRON-R 1:2/90
- LEITZ WETZLAR SUMMILUX-R 1:1.4/50
Nowadays, the Canon EOS 5D is morally obsolete, but still attracts with its full-frame sensor and affordable price per second. option. Canon 5D only requires full-frame Ef lenses. Canon EOS 5D even nowadays shows a great picture at low ISO. Many appreciate it for its nice color rendering.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram
Hello!
Thanks for the interesting review! Help with the dilemma!
I've been shooting at 650d for a year now, but I want to switch to the camera in the line above. I rush between the new 70d, which beckons with its newfangled gadgets and the supported 5d (after all, “full frame” is a magic word).
What would you suggest?
Thank you,
Ketevan.
I tried all three cameras, and now there 650d 5d. In the selection, first of all, it is necessary to understand whether you are shooting a video. In 5d it is not, but in 70d it is very good and convenient due to autofocus and a touch-screen rotary. In terms of workers, ISO 5d, despite old age ahead of 70d. At 70d, ISO workers are only slightly higher than 650d.
The most important thing you get when changing a carcass.
When changing to 70d you will receive:
+ slightly larger body;
+ Even better autofocus in video than in 650d;
+ there is an additional screen and a control wheel;
+ more rate of fire;
+ weather protection.
In fact, no deterioration, everything will become a little better and more convenient.
When changing to 5d you will receive:
+ wider DD;
+ noticeably higher working ISOs (in 650d I don’t even really like 800 in particular, I put 1600 very rarely, and in 5d I even like 3200);
+ full frame, which implies the lack of recalculation of focal lengths and the inability to use cropped glasses from canon;
+ excellent ergonomics - additional screen and wheel;
+ subjectively - more pleasant colors;
+ DOF will be Already.
There will be a lot of deterioration:
- the carcass is old, larger in size and weight even than 70d;
- no live view and rotary screen, no video;
- rate of fire for 5d is lower than that of 650d (3.5 versus 5 frames per second);
- there will be no weather protection in comparison with the 70d.
It is from these parameters that I would make a choice. To tell the truth, I've already made mine - I have 5d. A new 70d now costs at least fifty dollars, and 5d can be found for 25. So maybe just buy 650d to 5d? There will be a carcass for a video and there will be a carcass for a photo. As for me, only a couple of pluses in 5d outweigh all the pluses of 70d and other crops - these are working ISO and colors.
And finally, for work, in my opinion, it’s still better to take 70d, and for yourself 5d.
Why is everybody rushing with DD first-comer? He has less than modern cameras. Here is the DD on ISO100:
Canon 5D - 10.6 stops.
Canon 650D - 10.7 stops.
Canon 70D - 11.0 stops.
But 5D has fully working ISOs up to 800 (with preservation of DD and color). The 70D is slightly worse (the smallest), the 650D drops more. But the noise of the 7D and 650D is noticeably behind. But noise is not a stumbling block, color preservation is more important here.
Moved from a crop to a penny. I realized that my arms did not become straighter. The picture has become "more voluminous", more plastic. Noticeably more advantageous than 5D for portraits. For everything else, not much, well, except for the higher working ISO.
Everyone has already written, but I repeat, it is impossible to control the result of shooting on the screen. only according to the histogram, but it is not quite accurate because it displays not equal, but the jpeg set on the settings. It’s better to crop when shooting, then to cut (12mp) there will be nothing)
The obvious buns that caught my eye from the transition to the nickle from the crop are that HA almost disappeared (they became much more noticeable) and sharper and some other space, something more real or something.
11.1 in 5d, 11,2 in 650d, 11,6 in 70d - I took data on DD with dhomark. The beauty of keeping DD at higher ISOs. And for crops Nikon DD is noticeably wider, don't say so - the matrix decides. Iso workers are a rather subjective thing, but on the same dhomark, 5d has 1368 units (not 800), 70d has 926, 650d has 722 units at all. So there is a very noticeable difference. But the bottom line is that I met people on the forums who say that d800 have workers up to 400, and I also met those for whom 600d 3200 are quite workers. The point is what and why to shoot, how much to delve into the settings and look for jambs. Someone shoots for one unit at a hundred thousand and does not buzz, and for someone on the same unit, ISO 800 is too noisy.
The matrix cleaning function in this model is. You just need to remember to switch to M mode, go to the menu and find this function at the bottom of the list
Well, of course there is, only it will be necessary to clean manually.
Arkady, please tell us how did you notice that you got a UV filter scratched on the matrix when cleaning ??
How does it look at all, what does it affect?
I’m cleaning myself and now I’m worried
Thank you!
The service center employees themselves said that part of the filter exfoliated during the cleaning of the sensor. In the photo on closed apertures it appears as black dust. The master in the SC said that the camera could not stand another cleaning, it would be necessary to change the filter.
What is it like? Manually - does it mean just launching this function or with special tools?
now met this camera for $ 300 in perfect condition. FF - for $ 300! :)))
at such a price, the camera is beyond competition for a beginner amateur photographer. IMHO
I bought myself 5d with my native block in very good condition for 25 tr. Before that was Nikon d90. I looked at the Nikon crop for a long time, at 7000 and 7100, but after renting the devices my friends did not come to anything new. I wanted d700 but for an adequate price I could not find it. Accidentally cast a glance at the canon 5d. As a result, he acquired it. I have been in possession of the device for half a year now, I am not overjoyed. Photos are obtained quality even with 50 1.8. Ergonomics are just on top. The menu is very simple without any frills. Finally, the volume began to appear in the photo. Of the minuses, this is a BB, the cat is almost always manually configured, there is no autoiso. (Of the pluses, the picture is excellent, the noise up to 1000 is not even noticeable, at 1600 like the d90 at 400. In this regard, ff is at an altitude. But most of all I liked the color. Who I think I definitely go over from crop to 5d.
Please tell us more about the experience of switching from D90 to 5D. I'm going to make a similar transition, but I think whether the sheepskin is worth the candle. Engaged in photography with an eye on the profession.
Raskaz ... I had 90 ... I shot it. I'm tired of it. I bought 5d + 50 1.8 - I'm happy.
Is this a picture with or without processing? )
I have no regrets about the transition. The transition will be justified for future business activities. The detail of the picture will increase, the noise will be minimized. In ergonomics, the device is better than d90. The gripe after d90 is simply a miracle. Change, you will not regret it.
What about focusing? They say it is worse than on the D90. And I am also worried about the problem with dust - everyone writes that, they say, you have to clean the matrix all the time. This is expensive and harmful for the matrix, I guess.
Since d90 it is almost the same, you won’t feel the difference. I focus on the center point, as well as on the d90. By the way, the focus seemed to me much more accurate than on the d90, on 50 1.8 I always hit the target, no back-focus tricks like on crop. I don’t know about dust, I have one lens hanging until I cleaned the sensor.
And what’s better?) Fuj c5 or the first or second nickel? Provided that there is still no lens park.
According to the technical characteristics, we can say that a nickle is better.
I have both and it's hard to say for sure. Fuj has some useful life-view for manuals, fuj has the ability to pull from overexposures, and the colors of fuj are special. But on the other hand, 5d works great at high ISO, with colors, too, everything is fine, well, ff, which means you can reduce the depth of field and use ff glasses to the fullest. In general, if there were only one of two choices, I would take 5d. I often need high ISOs than stretching from overexposures, and 5d colors are still good, in any case, better than d90, d7000 and a number of similar crops from canon and nikon. In terms of ergonomics, both carcasses are very good. I don't erase the dust in 5d especially, at apertures up to 5.6 it is not visible, and I rarely clamp it anymore, usually on the contrary I have to open it to the maximum - up to 2.8 at zooms and even wider at fixes. By the way, Canon has fewer problems with manuals than Fuji with Nikon's bayonet mount. All M42 glasses easily climb 5d. Buy the same jupiter 37a, 50 1.8 from canon and already have a full set - half for everything and 135mm for a portrait. By the way, this Jupiter is very good at full frame, especially at low-pixel 5d.
As I understand it, you own a nickel. I would like to hear from the owners themselves the opinion about the autofocus and the problem with dust. Nowhere can I find a normal answer, how bad / good autofocus is and whether the dust problem is greatly exaggerated.
Autofocus seemed more accurate than the previous 50D. Accurate but less sensitive: requires more contrasting objects. But this is extremely rare when the surface is flat and there is little light.
Dust yes, there is a place to be. And it does not seem to fall through the bayonet, but from all the cracks. I often change optics on the street, and so it didn’t climb so much at half a month. I blow it with a pear, check - ok, and take a picture - dust. But somehow I got used to it, I just started blowing the camera and glass more often. To wash the matrix until the desire arose, I did not find any stuck dust.
By autofocus, I have no particular complaints about him. The same 50 1.8 worked on it no worse than on 7d or 40d (and at 500d, half a kilo more noticeably stupid). I’ll note right away that I focus on 5d at the center point, the side ones there are really not always good. But I didn’t feel at the central one. Everything is super on fast elks, 70-200 focuses instantly, 24-105 4lis and 24-70 2.8l too. 85 Elka is slow, but it is not fast on other carcasses. In general, center-point autofocus is good. But the side is not super, and not enough for their full work, especially after any 7d and d7000.
By dust, as I said, I do not steam. I never blew a nickle and so far there was no need. Of course, if you shoot the sky at f8, dust is visible, but with normal use of dust on open apertures in the pictures, I do not observe. In extreme cases, you can always blow a pear. The problem will be if you shoot landscapes where you pinch a hole and shoot solid objects. There the dust will come out. But it is possible to deal with this and this is not a difficult matter.
The focus, as for such a camera, is weak, at the d90 level (maybe a little better). If you don’t dust much (do not change the lenses), then it’s quite normal. Once a year you can wear it to the service.
Arkady, thank you very much for your site! I have already read half of the texts, probably. I would also like to ask you personally, tk. do you have a lot of experience with different cameras: in order to get started professionally in photography, is it worth changing from Nikon D90 (18-105 + 50 1.8D) to Canon 5D from 50 1.8II? Will the output be better? The article simply wrote that the color rendition is excellent and there is little noise, and then in the comments above they agreed that the picture is no better than a “soap dish”.
Yes, the picture will be better, I would change without thinking.
Yes
The image will be better than even the 5D Mark III. If you do not use the very high ISO value on mark 3 ... This old device works wonders, because of this it is still popular and will always be popular. If you made it out of stock but with a normal body and autofocus and the price, people would buy it with pleasure ...
The volume and plasticity of ff is always much more pronounced than that of crop, and there is also a fat pixel.
I have not had the opportunity to compare the first penny with all the new crops, but judging by the pictures on the Internet, a photo from a crop, even from the most megapixel one, always loses in terms of “realism” to the oldest full frame.
But some ancient crops almost do not lose to the same ancient ff. For example, fudzh s5pro or d80 / d200 are quite decent devices. It is clear that under equal conditions they will not give such depth of field as in 5d, but everything else is quite at the level. I can hardly distinguish between my 5d portraits and these old crops. But the pictures on 650d or d5200 are immediately visible.
Hello, tell me if you know how to deal with hot pixels on the spot? Can I somehow get rid of the sensor from them?
The same as on all other cameras - nothing. There are tips like: “menu >> sensor cleaning >> manual cleaning. We wait 30-60 seconds and turn it off. " Only after this procedure, some hot pixels disappear, and appear (or appear) in another place. Did it several times - it's useless. In all popular converters, broken and hot pixels are automatically removed from the image.
Good afternoon!
Friends, here I just climbed everything on the Internet. I did not find how to determine the mileage of the first five dollars without resorting to the services of the SC (all comments about it are impossible, etc. I understood). Just wondering how in the SC they check the mileage. If they can, then as it is possible in a house environment. Well, I won’t believe that there is a super-expensive machine there that costs 100500 money :)
In addition to the SC, really, nothing at all.
Most likely they will conclude simply about the state of the shutter lamellas
Advice please.
Holding a Canon 5d with a new 85mm 1.8
The first impression is great, but
On the Nikon 7000 with Helios 44m-7
The frames are much sharper
on all apertures
than on this Canon with eighty-fifth.
Please tell me - so it can be
Or need to be attributed to the service for adjustment?
Thank you.
I have a D7000. I started shooting weddings with a friend (my friend has 5D MII) and I need to switch to canon. Is it worth it to switch to 5D or what advise you to switch to?
It all depends on money. There is a possibility to take 5 dm3 - take it, it is good for weddings. There is no money for it - 6d or 5dm2. Well, if the finances for photographic equipment are still not very good, then 5d is the only ff from canon for a price below 30 thousand rubles. So, if ff is not required, then there are plenty of options, but from ff this is the only one. For the first time, you can take 28-135is to him and 85 1.8 for portraits - there will be an excellent set for a wedding to start with. Well, then, as the weddings go on, buy what you need.
Overall, the penny is a great camera, but the problem of old age is already taking its toll. No life view, slow autofocus, and the shutter too. If all this does not bother you and you need a good picture at the output, take 5d.
The first one should be taken only if the full frame needs a nosebleed. After all, ergonomics after the D7000 dull g..no (special hello on / off the power), autofocus barely at the center point and absolutely nothing else, change ISO - you can break your fingers, the weight and size are more suitable for self-defense than for prof. work, etc. He will have a run, do not worry, and his age is respectable (besides mechanical wear, there is also natural aging from at least 8 years of life). Do you need it?
Download the instruction in Russian here: http://manualbase.ru/files/32779_canon-eos-5d.html
Why instructions to him? It’s as simple as 5 kopecks.
Everyone decides the way why he needs instructions. Read the comments above and do not ask the wrong questions.
It remains a mystery where the ISO-50 came from in the first place, less than 100 is not set, and in your exifs the ISO-50 came from somewhere from the review ?!
“Canon EOS 5D can use ISO 100 to 1600 and expand the range to ISO L (ISO 50), ISO H (ISO 3200).”
In the settings, the advanced mode is turned on. ISO 50 is ISO L.
For riddles, read the instructions ...
Who did not come across? Put a manual lens, the transition with the chip confirms the focus with a flight of 10 centimeters, that is, back focus ... how to treat this, no one knows?
So far I have found only this:
The plastic plate covering the three screws is peeled off the body, and then glued back without problems, there is an adhesive layer on it. It does not break, flexible. The screws are controlled by some kind of transparent gel, and the head of one of the screws was covered with smudge, had to be removed.
To tighten the screws you need a 1,5 mm hexagon. To parallel shift the platform with autofocus sensors, you need to twist all three screws at the same angle. In my case, to correct the front focus, I had to rotate them about 150 degrees counterclockwise.
I twisted them 15 degrees before each test, but you can turn them 30 - 45 or even more at first. It took not 15 minutes at all, but 2 hours - I tested it with different lenses, and at first I missed, checking only on hole 2,8.
It is imperative to check with different apertures, for example 2,8 and 5,6 at least. In a nutshell - the front blur starts much earlier than the back blur; when everything is actually set up optimally, there is a slight front-focus feeling across the full hole. And the zone of maximum sharpness shifts with aperture, just like in books on optics. We have to choose the middle ground.
PS: who knows where these three screws are in Pyatak?
In Lushnikov's dandelion, you can programmatically enter an autofocus confirmation correction (if I remember correctly), in Chinese chips - I don't know. It is too early to turn the three screws, it is necessary to check the carcass with native autofocus glasses first, because the transition with a chip is not an indicator of problems with aligning the autofocus of the carcass. There are three screws in the heel under the bottom cover - it is necessary to unscrew it, in theory, in 5D in the same place, tk. the position of the autofocus sensors is standard in DSLRs.
Thanks, I figured it out ... and wrote an article on what is what and how to do it here: http://rasfokus.ru/blogs/vse-velikoe-rjadom/perehodnik-canon-m42-eos-i-ego-programirovanie.html The adapter turned out to be a programmable instruction, but found and configured it. By default, the adapter is configured not to zero, but for some reason a little in back focus. Put the amendment all in place, is it really so few people have come across this that there is no one to tell?
I switched to 5d from Nikon d5300, I have been using it for less than a year, I felt the result right away - finally, real sharpness appeared on the frames, the colors are colorful and reliable, the skin color is such that it is almost always unnecessary to edit. The screen is wretched, but personally, I calmly read the color on it, I see where there is sharpness. Sometimes there are under-light-overexposure, from which the exposure “dances” I have not yet realized, maybe the peculiarity of my camera. Ravas, compared to Nikon, do not last well, but not critically, expecting the worst. Overexposure lasts. In general, the camera loves the light, but, for example, in the lighting of the sun at sunset, skin colors go purple, or something. I got used to the weight of the camera quickly, I bought the Chinese batteries, dste like, and phottix, they hold normally. 700 frames, offhand, it turns out (I also used the batteries). Dust appears somewhere on the diaphragm 8, I personally, but not critical. A couple of times I blew it with a pear, I will clean it either at home or in the service - I have not decided. I often take off lenses and put them on. I use autofocus on a central point, with cropping, most often, I do not recommend side points. Autofocus is tenacious, but it’s difficult to shoot dynamics at one point, I already got the hang of predicting where the subject will be in the frame. I took off 4 weddings at my own peril and risk, it was difficult only in a restaurant where everyone was dancing, and then, a feature of my ancient outbreak. You can’t find out the mileage by conventional methods, the service can also say very roughly. When buying, you need to look so that there are no scuffs on the case, it is better if the matrix is clean, especially without streaks from subsequent unsuccessful cleanings. The next point is that the black paint remains on the hot shoe, the more it is erased, the more often they removed and put on the flash, which means the mileage is higher. The menu is simple, in Russian, easy to understand. Auto ISO no, already used to quickly change it. Up to 1600 is optimal, up to 3200 - in principle the same, but not for printing on a large format. In general, the nickel grain is very similar to the film, you can not push the noise :) The camera likes good glasses. Oddly enough, I liked the result on Helios-44, it twists more artistically than on crop, the sharpness is enough. Colors really turn out a la shot on film. With 50 1.8 stm the result was, but not so much "wow". 28 1.8 is not bad in the evening, in the morning and afternoon it gives a simple picture, I don’t. The result was excellent with 100 2.0, I recommend this glass on a nickle, the picture is better than 85 1.8, almost like 135L. It’s only necessary to go back 6 meters, so that you can shoot at full height. Color and sharpness are such that I do not want to edit. Not bad on the 70-200 2.8L, the first version, fast and sharp. In general, going to this camera, think in advance which glasses to take. The cheapest staff is like the 28-135 dark zoom. But you can take for the first time youngnuo 35 2.0. Autofocus there, according to rumors, is not frisky, but glass is not expensive. Excellent results on the Zeiss 50 1.4, the Watering can 90 2.8, Zuiko Olympus. I shot on Vega 12-b - I liked him more on the crop. I liked Sigma Art 50 1.4, in principle, but there was no "wow" effect, as it is a hundred cannon. Verdict - it's too early to write off the camera, even if you need to replace the shutter, I saw it in Kiev for $ 150. The pleasure of shooting, even taking into account the minuses, is much higher than from crop. And what color - the eye rejoices! For slow shooting, possibly manuals (especially with a magnifier in the viewfinder like tempa, sort of).
Hello. I have a question about the memory card. Today I bought Canon 5d and was surprised to find that the memory card is completely different than they do now. Maybe there is some kind of adapter for using modern memory cards?
5D uses CF cards (CompactFlash). If I'm not mistaken, older cameras still use them. Buy is not a problem. If you have an SD card, then there are adapters from SD to CF.
Thank you. I see.
CF cards are better than “modern” SD cards :) They have not stopped being produced. Buy yourself one and enjoy speed and reliability
These cards are very good; buying them is not a problem. Of the fifty or so SD cards, I had problems 2-3 times with them, but out of two dozen digital telephones there was never even a hint of a problem. The main thing is to insert a card exactly so as not to crush the pins in the camera. A fairly common failure in cameras with digital cameras.
Pastor, maybe you know if there are modern SD cards that really show the recording speed comparable with SF 1066x?
Yes, SD UHS-II, they give even greater speed than conventional SF. Judging by the tests, up to 300 mb / s! But the sf also has something to answer - there is CFast 2.0 up to 500 mb / s.
P.S. Cool movie swinging :)
Thank you, recorded so as not to forget. It remains to understand which of these cards the camera will work with and whether it will be at all :). I tried the speed of the film (I agree that it’s good :))
Select a camera for a memory card? Original :)
from which it follows that I decided to select a camera for the card? I now want to know whether my D800 will work with the cards specified by Pastor or not, the rest is fancy :)
Well, be the discussion of 5D;) But he certainly doesn’t eat that :)
By the way, it may very well be that the camera will work with these cards, only at its maximum speed
cfast 2 in my opinion there is only 1dx2, although I won’t say about 5dm4, maybe there. I don’t know about Nikon either, but the d800 is unlikely, unfortunately. In my opinion, even d5 does not support the speed of fast 2.
Thanks again - I have less to read and study :), so we will live on the old SF, the speed is enough for now. It's a pity that the D800 has not 2 SF slots, but SF + SD.
Nice camera. Crop and full-frame shots cannot be compared even with good optics. While you are photographing at home, there is almost no difference, but once you go out into nature, everything falls into place. Full frame skims in nature give a clear scene without losing the quality of the sky details with natural colors. The crop has a narrow range and will work well for either the sky or the scene. It's bad that the 5D does not show the mileage at home, and in the service, after replacing the mirror, they reset the counter. So, the probability of buying a 5D in a normal state is minimal.
Good afternoon ... .. tell me, how will this camera behave in shooting high-speed objects - running people, driving cars ...
I take 2 fps, it's not enough ... But I love to catch the frame ....
As with the focus points .. Is the camera tenacious
For example, with 70-200 \ 4 or 200 \ 2.8
Recently filmed a home booze. A small room, lighting a chandelier of 3 incandescent lamps of 40 watts, a 40mm lens, at 2.8. The camera, for so long, tried to catch the trick, it tried, because it was not always possible for her. The previous 50D in darker conditions caught faster.
Good day. I report to you on the fact that when shooting an old lens of the token 80-200mm f2.8 without a stub. Ofigensky delicious pictures. I can throw it off for you. It costs no more than canon ef 70-200 mm L4. Yes dustproof moisture protection is better and faster focus. Less noise. About the minuses f4. white color, easily soiled. There are pictures taken on a bunch of 5d + ef70-200mm f4 L. Therefore, as in the old joke, you check or go. Better than the tokina 80-200mm f2.8 I recommend as a variant of the Canon 80-200 f.2.8 without a stub, despite his middle age, he tears the glass ef 70-200m f4 like an ace. If possible, pay attention to it.
Hello everyone. I completely agree with the review. After the Canon sx20i soap dish, which at one time was awesome, all the same. There is an Hd video, lightview, a rotating screen, a flash, and finally a lens. When buying a camera, I immediately had to forget. Ps And I almost forgot quite rare CF memory cards. From the previous owner I got a 4gb 133x. If you shoot in raw then about 180 frames are enough for shooting but being in the field. It is not so easy to buy a card in any communication store (and this is for Yekaterinburg. And that's why I like to watch the sellers who take to you at full speed from the end of the hall. And then the question do you have a memory card cf? They look at you with eyes the size of this very card. And then, looking at the window, they will say no. And quietly crawl into their little room to pour tea or coffee in grief ....
Why didn’t you please Cf? Not so rare. Expensive. That is yes. I would give two slots for CD for one under CF
Yeah. faster and more compatible than a bunch of varieties of SD
Modern SDs are not slower :)
True not supported by most cameras)
Topics into which the film is inserted? Kmk is already 5 years old massively put in SD cameras.
Hello, for several years I "bombed" weddings with this "old lady" ... noises-iso, but if you "don't click your beak" and steer with flash (s), everything will turn out ... cool ...
Thanks for good job!
With respect…
Tell me, would you caress a yaku more beautifully?
I got it six months ago for my Fuji S5. Briefly about this wonderful device: the camera is more suitable for unhurried art shooting and for those who appreciate beautiful color. Both fujik and penny complement each other. Often filming the same scene, you notice, for example, that the s5 did not produce the same color result as we would like, and Canon did it perfectly. On a different plot, quite the opposite ... All the advantages and disadvantages of 5D have long been known, for me its disadvantages outweigh the picture. Personally, I prefer landscapes with s5 and 5d for portraits, but Fuj is more stable as a result. I like both cameras very much and if we proceed from the calculation of quality + color + price, then there is simply nothing better in this price segment!
Started shooting in 2008 with Canon 450D kit. Three years later I bought a used Canon 40D. And now, for 4 years I have been shooting for a nickel. And I realized that the camera's capabilities are very wide. Until now, it never ceases to amaze and delight me, and remains a reliable tool that gives excellent results. The camera is actually easy to operate. She has no newfangled buns. But I think that the camera should take a photo - this is the main thing. With proper shooting, you can get a lot out of the RAV. Color - yes! This is exactly the position for which this camera is loved. An important addition: you need to learn to show RAVs. I have been using C1 for about a year. And I am very pleased. Conclusion: the camera is very decent, I RECOMMEND!
arkadiy, I want to feed you yak lyudin yak rozbirєєє in the photo of technical options varto me sell d5100 + nikkor 50mm 1.4g tamron 17-50 2.8 (stable stab) sb 600 і go to canon mark1 5d
For what purpose? What do you shoot and what do you want to shoot?
Vesіlna photo zyomka I want to do everything vseoz
Many years ago I worked with this camera from 28-105_2. I was very pleased then, because I could only compare with my then Nikon D80. In terms of picture quality, they were not even close to each other, not to mention the high isos, where the canon is just a king compared to that nikon. But what I want to say is that I currently have a 5D3, and as a camera it is much more advanced, modern and very pleasant to work with, except for the quality of the resulting picture. Well, it's a shame when, with such an expensive camera, almost all frames have to be cleaned of banding, but to the end it almost never succeeds. And on the old one it was not! My idiotic Pentax K-01 does not give any banding for any effort !!! I mean, what the other day I saw at the local pawnshop 5D, it looks like new, there are not even scratches and scuffs. It's crazy, but I'm thinking of buying it, it only costs about $ 280. It produces some very natural and voluminous photos, by the way, very high quality convertible to black and white. I don't even know how to say - the shots from him turned out to be some kind of major, he always gave a better result than was expected of him. I then noticed that when pulling out the shadows, many cameras lose the green color if it gets into these shadows themselves, but not at the first dime. The Nikons sin a little in this, and the crops generally interrogate him into grayish-dirty garbage. Cleaning the matrix was problematic in the old days when people were afraid to do it and there were no simple mops. Now it takes me 10 minutes and one cleaning costs about less than $ 1 (you just need to first clean it with a damp mop with some pressure, and then dry with a large pressure).