According provided by Hanimex Automatic 1: 2.8 f = 100mm lens huge thanks to Ilya Kostenko (the first official photo flea market of the city of Dnepropetrovsk).
Hanimex Automatic 1: 2.8 f = 100mm review
Hanimex Automatic 1: 2.8 f = 100mm is an old manual high-aperture fixture with an M42 mounting thread, developed for film cameras. Lenses from various manufacturers were sold under the name 'Hanimex'. Lenses of class 100 / 2.8 are reviewed much less often than 135 / 2.8, so it is very interesting to review such an infrequent guest.
Hanimex Automatic 1: 2.8 f = 100mm when focusing on MDF
How to use with modern cameras?
Lenses with mounting thread M42 (M42 X 1 / 45.5), such as the lens from this review, are very easy to use on almost any modern digital camera (both SLR and mirrorless), for this it is enough to choose the right adapter (adapter). You do not need to carry out any additional steps to modify the lens.
The cheapest adapters can be found at Aliexpress.com... There are adapters (adapters) with a chip that provide more convenience during shooting, usually chips are used to confirm focus and / or metering exposure, and form the correct EXIF. The chip does not affect the image quality in any way.
For some SLR cameras (for example, with the Nikon F-mount), you need to use adapters with a corrective lens, which allows you to focus correctly at all focusing distances. For any mirrorless cameras, such a lens is not needed, and the adapter is a simple decorated hollow metal tube with an appropriate mount.
For SLR cameras
- Canon: For cameras Canon EOS with bayonet mount EF / EF-S need an M42-Canon EOS adapter, such an adapter with a chip can be found herewithout chip here.
- NIKON: For cameras Nikon DX / FXas well as for cameras Fujifilm и Kodak with a Nikon F mount, you need an M42-Nikon F adapter, you can buy such an adapter without a lens and a chip here, with a lens without a chip herewith chip without lens here, with lens and chip here. Why a lens? Why chip?
- PENTAX: For Pentax cameras with K mount, you need an M42-Pentax K adapter, you can buy such an adapter here.
- SONY/MINOLTA: For cameras with a Sony / Minolta A mount, you need the M42-Sony A adapter, you can find such an adapter without a chip at this linkwith a chip at this link.
- OLYMPUS/PANASONIC/LEICA: For cameras with a 4/3 bayonet mount (not to be confused with Micro 4/3!) You need an M42-4 / 3 adapter, you can buy such an adapter here.
For mirrorless cameras
- SONY: For cameras with 'E'/'FE' mount series SonyNEX и Sony Alpha you need an adapter M42-Sony E (aka M42-Sony Nex), you can find it at this link. An autofocus adapter is also available for these cameras. Techart PRO Leica M - Sony E Autofocus Adapterwhich can be found at this link.
- OLYMPUS / PANASONIC / KODAK / XIAOMI: For cameras with a bayonet mount Micro 4/3 (Micro 4:3) you need an adapter M42-Micro 4/3, you can find it at this link.
- CANON M: For cameras with Canon EF-M mount need adapter M42-Canon M, it can be found at this link.
- CANON R and RF-S: For cameras with Canon RF mount need adapter M42-Canon R, it can be found at this link.
- Nikon 1: For cameras Nikon 1 Series need adapter M42-Nikon 1, you can find it at this link.
- Nikon Z: For cameras Nikon Z series (FX/DX) need an adapter M42-Nikon Z, it can be found at this link.
- FUJIFILM X: For cameras with mount X need an M42-Fuji X adapter, you can find it at this link.
- FUJIFILM GFX: For medium format cameras G-mount need M42-Fuji GFX adapter, you can find it at this link.
- SAMSUNG: For cameras with NX mount, you need an M42-Samsung NX adapter, you can find it at this link. There are no adapters for the NX mini camera yet.
- PENTAX: For Q-mount cameras, you need an M42-Pentax Q adapter, you can find it at this link.
- SIGMA / PANASONIC / LEICA: For cameras with L mount you need an M42-Leica L adapter, you can find it at this link.
- LEICA: For cameras with a bayonet mount Leica M need adapter M42-L / M, you can find it at this link.
If you have any questions on compatibility and adapters - ask in the comments (comments do not require any registration at all).
On full-frame cameras the Hanimex 100 \ 2.8 acts as a portrait and creative lens, although on cropped cameras it may already seem a bit too long. At one time, I used Jupiter 37A 3,5 / 135 on cropped cameras without much discomfort.
Hanimex Automatic 1: 2.8 f = 100mm Rear Lens
The lens is small, well assembled, the focusing ring is rubberized. Hanimex 100 \ 2.8 uses small 52 mm filters. The only thing that alerted me to the lens is the non-blackened bevels of the lenses, which can sometimes lead to a loss of contrast and the fact that if you shake the lens lightly, you can hear something dangling there.
Hanimex Automatic 1: 2.8 f = 100mm
The focus ring has a smooth stroke and rotates 270 degrees (3/4 circle). The minimum focusing distance is 1.2 meters. On the lens case there is a focus distance scale with designations in meters and feet, a depth of field scale for F / 5.6, 11, 16, 22, as well as a label for working in the infrared spectrum.
There is also a 'M / A' aperture control switch. In 'A' mode, the blinking aperture mechanism works on cameras that are compatible with it (this is not the blinking aperture at all from Nikon or Pentax). The 'M' mode is very convenient to use on modern DSLR cameras, where the aperture can be manually set immediately using the aperture control ring. You can set the values of F / 2.8, 4, 5.6, 8, 11, 16, 22 and one additional value between pairs of numbers (however, there is no intermediate value between F / 2.8 and F / 4).
The diaphragm is six-lobed, the petals are matte. It is easy to get 'nuts' (see an example).
Hanimex Automatic 1: 2.8 f = 100mm
Most likely Hanimex 100 \ 2.8 uses some kind of simple enlightenment of optics.
Hanimex Automatic 1: 2.8 f = 100mm and Nikon AF Nikkor 35-105mm 1: 3.5-4.5 D (MKIII)
In the center of the frame, the lens is pretty good at f / 2.8, but chromatite is noticeable nonetheless. Hanimex 100 \ 2.8 is afraid of flares and if the sun gets into the frame, the whole frame will be filled with a white veil, also, with side light, you can get glare and 'rainbows' (there is an example of 'rainbow' in the gallery). But the drawing of the lens is very good.
Here link to the archive with the originals - 335 MB, 31 photos in .CR2 format (RAW) from the camera Canon EOS 5D. You can find more examples of photos on this lens in the review Nikon D40x.
I spent almost 1 weeks on the Hanimex Automatic 2.8: 100 f = 3mm review, but shooting for the review constantly failed. The last time, at the very beginning of the shooting, it started to rain, because Olya and I were able to take only a couple of shots under the protection of the columns at VDNKh.
Hanimex Automatic 1: 2.8 f = 100mm
Comments on this post do not require registration. Anyone can leave a comment.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval.
Very nice obetiv, I wanted to buy
Colon at VDNH.
Two n.
Sorry.
Arkady, here’s an unusual question (a joke of course), what do you like more in the picture? seven hundred or five-copeck first? and what would you leave for yourself, not for work?
Since the question is a joke, the answer will be not those two cameras, but the c5 pro.
Vile how!
But in the case.
)))
The model is good, the glass pattern is not very good. Something all expressionless. No zest
Arkady, one question. Which camera do you use (if two then which one is the main one)? In no case do not think that I want to do everything the way you do!
d700
Arkady, many will not understand you, now 36MP is in fashion, and what kind of DD is there and the colors ...
Now I use d700, there will be an opportunity, there will be something else. What is the question of understanding here?
And what kind of dd and color are there? And how many top flagship cameras will you name with 36 megapixels?
Anatoly so now selfies are in vogue - so don’t sit on the forums, but run and do them :)))
Thank you!
I understand that they did not ask me, but to be honest, who cares, who takes what? After all, even on a soap dish you can take good photos if you take it thoughtfully, with a composition, with a golden hour, etc. etc. And often those who have or want to have 36 megapixels take mediocre dull photos that could well be done on the Nikon D40 with glass from this review. Never think that some kind of new expensive camera will solve all your problems, or that there is some kind of ultra rare lens that makes a masterpiece. Shoot more, pay more attention to light and composition. Finally get up off the couch, and take pictures of what is already there, than hang around on such forums! Man sofa get up and go !!!
Run, forest, run.
Funny movie.
I understand that the question is not too correct, but how is it compared to Kaleinar-5N? It’s not so afraid of flare, or did you shoot with a hood?
PS. Hello, you still have autumn and flowers :) and we have almost winter and frost ...
In general, compared with Kaleinar-5N worse.
I really like the lens pattern in the portraits. Good review.
I don’t know how anyone, but I really liked this glass. I had it for a couple of years. colors nicely conveys. light in the forehead and really does not like. but I don’t agree about the raisins. there is a highlight in it. you need to get used to it. By the way, that the previous owner was not able to explain it to me)))
... and on Canon “here”. - here the link is wrong, it was based on the article "Canon CPC Performance"
HELLO Arkady advise a lens for an entry-level camera d3100 lens 85mm f / 1.8?
35 1.8GDX
+ 1. 35ka 1.8G DX will be very good for every day on the D3100.
I myself am inclined to Nikon AF-S Nikkor 85mm 1: 1.8G IF ..
The Nikon AF-S Nikkor 85mm / 1.8G is a good autofocus lens, but the drawing is rather simple. it is easier to shoot with autofocus. its focal point on your camera assumes a fairly large distance to the subject. if you shoot in a confined space - only close-ups. A 50mm lens will be more versatile. but the 85 mm will have to be taken anyway! fifty dollars, still not a portraitist!
I came across this lens as Chinon, Miida, Vivitar, Pentor.
Poor resistance to illumination is explained by poor blackening of the ends of the lenses, more precisely the central gluing (his scheme is of the “zonnar” type, like that of “Jupiter-37A”). If you have nail polish remover, an ordinary black marker and straight hands, this problem is solved in half an hour.
Hello.
Helios-44 reminded me of the glass pattern, but just which of the many models? Arkady correct if I am mistaken.
And the video is not funny, but rather rude.
As I understand it, this is one of the old Japanese non-names. It seems, nothing outstanding in the picture. Is it worth it to buy such non-names? Purely for the sake of experimentation, the price does not seem to bite.
cool review)
thank you)
Recently bought Hanimex Automatik MC 1: 2.8 f = 28mm # 786269 lens made in Japan.
There are no intermediate apertures, as in the description.
I did not find a review on it here. I'm not ready to give an overview myself.
I have a question. Probably I have something wrong with the diaphragm. As if one petal is not coming out, especially clearly visible at f16. And yet, by clicking on the "jump rope" it is clearly noticeable that the petals move poorly / slowly, it is especially noticeable at values with a smaller hole. To get a small hole at f16, press the "jump rope" 7-10 times. Probably it is sticking.
In matters of disassembly, I am not strong, but if it is required, tell me how and what to do. If there is no review of such a lens, can there be a link to an analogue?
Thank you