According provided by Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1: 4/200 ASAHI OPT. CO., JAPAN and photos from him many thanks to Ivan Koronevsky.
Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1: 4 / 200 ASAHI OPT. CO., JAPAN
In short
Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1: 4/200 ASAHI OPT. CO., JAPAN is a nice old telephoto lens. For its time, it was a good solution for film cameras for M42 thread. Has a fairly compact size.
For our time it is interesting with a maximum relative hole of 1: 4 and an affordable price. Many modern zoom telephoto lenses use F / 5.6 at their long end, which is one step darker than the F / 4 of the Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1: 4/200.
Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1: 4 / 200 ASAHI OPT. CO., JAPAN
Main technical characteristics of Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1: 4 / 200 ASAHI OPT. CO., JAPAN:
| Review Instance Name | Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1: 4/200 5984565 ASAHI OPT. CO., JAPAN, lettering on the case LENS MADE IN JAPAN, lettering on the switch '43762' |
| Basic properties |
|
| Front Filter Diameter | 58 mm, metal thread for filters |
| Focal length | 200 mm
|
| Zoom ratio | 1 x |
| Designed by | for film cameras with a frame size of 24 x 36 |
| MDF | 2.5 meters, maximum magnification ratio 1:10 |
| Number of aperture blades | 6 petals. Petals are dull black. Petals form a hole in the shape of a regular hexagon. |
| Tags |
|
| Diaphragm | from f / 4 to f / 22. The lens has metallic aperture control ring.
There are marks on the ring for F / 4, 5.6, 8, 11, 16, 22. You can set one additional value between each pair of numbers (except between F / 4 and F / 5.6, as well as between F / 16 and F / 22 ) The aperture ring has a MAN / AUTO switch to set the aperture to automatic or manual. |
| The weight | 550 grams |
| Optical design | 5 elements in 5 groups
|
| Hood / Covers | ASAHI OPT. Co., JAPAN Ø58 Takumar 1: 2.5 135mm 1: 4 200mm, can also be used for the Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1: 2.5 / 135 ASAHI OPT lens. CO., JAPAN
The hood is threaded, metal, screwed into the thread of the front filter. Can be installed in the opposite direction. It has a fabric sealing coating on the inside for installation in the opposite direction, in this position the cover for the front lens can also be mounted on the hood (the cover can be used with latches as well as the original cover without latches). The original front cover also has a fabric seal on the inside, the cover without latches, just fits snugly on the outer rim of the case (not on the latches under the filter). |
| Manufacturer country | LENS MADE IN JAPAN (lens made in Japan). |
| Period |
|
| Price | About 50 cu for used option.
Prices for modern Pentax lenses can be viewed here. |
Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1: 4 / 200 well assembled. The focus ring is metal, large, with ribbed edges, rotates about 225 degrees. The stroke of the ring is very smooth. During focusing, the front retractable body does not rotate. Focusing occurs by moving the entire lens block. During focusing, the focus ring remains in place (does not move forward, as with some lenses).
Important: on the bayonet side, the lens has an additional very small pinwhich is responsible for the operation of the MAN / AUTO switch. The MAN / AUTO switch only works when this pin is pressed. As a result, the MAN / AUTO switch only works when the lens is mounted on the camera, or when the rear protective cover is installed.
UPDATE: This pin should not be confused with a conventional pin for controlling the diaphragm. They are different, clearly shown in the image. by this link.
Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1: 4 / 200 ASAHI OPT. CO., JAPAN
Sample Photos
The lens is very afraid of backlight and even the hood does not help it much in this matter. In general, the image quality is not bad for an 'old school' lens.
Photos were taken by converting RAW ('.CR2') files from Canon EOS 5D using original Canon utility Digital Photo Pprofessional 4 (Canon DPP) or directly using the on-camera 'JPEG' format. Some photos were captured using a polarizing filter HOYA 58mm PL-CIR... On a Canon EOS 5D I used a lens with an adapter M42-Canon EOS. Original photos can be downloaded at this link. One photo in processing here.
I also worked with Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1: 4/200 at a small wedding, filming about 500 frames on it as an addition to the main camera / lens, several photos in my Instagramme. But in general, I expected better performance on F / 4.
How to use with modern cameras?
Lenses with mounting thread M42 (M42 X 1 / 45.5), such as the lens from this review, are very easy to use on almost any modern digital camera (both SLR and mirrorless), for this it is enough to choose the right adapter (adapter). You do not need to carry out any additional steps to modify the lens.
The cheapest adapters can be found at Aliexpress.com... There are adapters (adapters) with a chip that provide more convenience during shooting, usually chips are used to confirm focus and / or metering exposure, and form the correct EXIF. The chip does not affect the image quality in any way.
For some SLR cameras (for example, with the Nikon F-mount), you need to use adapters with a corrective lens, which allows you to focus correctly at all focusing distances. For any mirrorless cameras, such a lens is not needed, and the adapter is a simple decorated hollow metal tube with an appropriate mount.
For SLR cameras
- Canon: For cameras Canon EOS with bayonet mount EF / EF-S need an M42-Canon EOS adapter, such an adapter with a chip can be found herewithout chip here.
- NIKON: For cameras Nikon DX / FXas well as for cameras Fujifilm и Kodak with a Nikon F mount, you need an M42-Nikon F adapter, you can buy such an adapter without a lens and a chip here, with a lens without a chip herewith chip without lens here, with lens and chip here. Why a lens? Why chip?
- PENTAX: For Pentax cameras with K mount, you need an M42-Pentax K adapter, you can buy such an adapter here.
- SONY/MINOLTA: For cameras with a Sony / Minolta A mount, you need the M42-Sony A adapter, you can find such an adapter without a chip at this linkwith a chip at this link.
- OLYMPUS/PANASONIC/LEICA: For cameras with a 4/3 bayonet mount (not to be confused with Micro 4/3!) You need an M42-4 / 3 adapter, you can buy such an adapter here.
For mirrorless cameras
- SONY: For cameras with 'E'/'FE' mount series SonyNEX и Sony Alpha you need an adapter M42-Sony E (aka M42-Sony Nex), you can find it at this link. An autofocus adapter is also available for these cameras. Techart PRO Leica M - Sony E Autofocus Adapterwhich can be found at this link.
- OLYMPUS / PANASONIC / KODAK / XIAOMI: For cameras with a bayonet mount Micro 4/3 (Micro 4:3) you need an adapter M42-Micro 4/3, you can find it at this link.
- CANON M: For cameras with Canon EF-M mount need adapter M42-Canon M, it can be found at this link.
- CANON R and RF-S: For cameras with Canon RF mount need adapter M42-Canon R, it can be found at this link.
- Nikon 1: For cameras Nikon 1 Series need adapter M42-Nikon 1, you can find it at this link.
- Nikon Z: For cameras Nikon Z series (FX/DX) need an adapter M42-Nikon Z, it can be found at this link.
- FUJIFILM X: For cameras with mount X need an M42-Fuji X adapter, you can find it at this link.
- FUJIFILM GFX: For medium format cameras G-mount need M42-Fuji GFX adapter, you can find it at this link.
- SAMSUNG: For cameras with NX mount, you need an M42-Samsung NX adapter, you can find it at this link. There are no adapters for the NX mini camera yet.
- PENTAX: For Q-mount cameras, you need an M42-Pentax Q adapter, you can find it at this link.
- SIGMA / PANASONIC / LEICA: For cameras with L mount you need an M42-Leica L adapter, you can find it at this link.
- LEICA: For cameras with a bayonet mount Leica M need adapter M42-L / M, you can find it at this link.
If you have any questions on compatibility and adapters - ask in the comments (comments do not require any registration at all).
Comments on this post do not require registration. Anyone can leave a comment. Many different photographic equipment can be found on AliExpress.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram
similar in characteristics to Jupiter-21m
Tell me why an adapter with a lisa? And in kenon without a lens. There is where to read about it?
Here.
Pentax Week is in full swing)) Interesting reviews, thanks
Yes, there were three reviews in a row! But for the majority, Pentax is an incomprehensible curiosity. And the optics are actually super cool for their time.
the ethos now Pentax does not have a significant share of the world market, and in 1980 he sold 10 million cameras and on this indicator beat Kenon and Nikon together. And Pentah's manual lenses have always been famous for their quality and design.
Not “in” 1980, but “to” 1980, i.e. for the period 1952-1980
If you read in English, on Photonet there is a memoir of Western grandfathers about the camera market in 1960-1980. They do not agree in everything, but in the main they are 100% uniform: 1) until the 80th year, all the pros were on Nikonov with a very small share of Hasselbladov (portrait shooting). 2) Pentax was perceived by everyone as a manufacturer of cameras in the amateur segment. Hence, quite likely, and good sales volumes. According to sales statistics, I will not go into details, but from 1945 to 1980. Altogether, Pentax's share of the Western camera market was less than 10%. The result is good, but not outstanding.
Tell me where do you get this?
Well, it is well known with whom cooperation began) Apparently taught
Liked it! And constructive, which in general is understandable :) and the picture. Sharp with pleasant bokeh, it seems, nothing more is needed! Backlight, yes, is problematic, but that's why backlight :) Even with very good glasses, very good photographers try to avoid it. I think that not the best performance on F / 4 is due to inaccurate focusing. A tripod plus Live View 10x plus a static item, I think it would be completely different :) I rarely comment here, maybe once a year, when something really hooks. And Takumarych hooked!
Liked it!
Takumar is comparatively (with other Takumaras) mediocre and therefore cheap. The picture is very similar to SMC 135 \ 3.5, which is not surprising. You can get confused if you don't look closely. The same idiosyncrasy for some lights and a very strong dependence of the color quality on the nature of the illumination. For those familiar with the Takumaras - complete déjà vu ...
In general, of course, not a review, but solid links and a standard set of chewing gum about who where why look here ...
If something is not clear about the lens, ask, add it to the review or try to write it in the comments.
In terms of review, this is an old manual lens, which, in fact, implies its meager set of functions. I see no point in writing long odes, just like writing a long subjective essay about a lens.
Yes, everything is clear with the lens. It is not clear what for so far 4/5 of the reviews are loaded with unnecessary links to where it is attached and what it works with. This is understandable to every wretched hedgehog who visits your site! As for the optics - glass produced until the mid-70s makes all zooms by 200 on its 5.6 hundred - well, except for the top 2.8 with aspherics and nano. We are missing this. What does the fear of the counter have to do with it? In 90 percent of cases, even in the SSC series, they are not sharpened to work head-on against the sun. Feature - yes, most likely. Common at the time. Did the koniks and minolt have any other way? Not a word about permission. Not inspired by 4.0? Draw parallels with 3.5 for example. Takumars - they are not helios - from curves to curves regardless of modification, in tons of helicoid slag and with bottle glass. This is history and this is one of those lines that will survive the real torn apart and resold to #yam Pentax. And if you undertake a review of Takumara, then please do not limit yourself to a ton of links to # er knows that the general conclusion from three paragraphs - that it is about nothing - but dig a little into the history of the issue. Write about 17-55 ...
Thank you
Nema for scho. And here's another thing - you marked in the important thing about the back pin of the jump rope. You write - “Important: on the side of the mount, the lens has an additional very small pin, which is responsible for the MAN / AUTO switch. The MAN / AUTO switch works only when this pin is pressed. As a result, the MAN / AUTO switch works only when the lens is attached to the camera, or when the rear protective cover is attached ”….
Stupidity and complete nonsense. The switch works regardless of whether you have this pin on the lens or someone has broken it out or is already mechanically pressed into the body by someone, or or ... In manual mode, when you turn the aperture ring, the lamellas close the hole to the working value - thereby we aim “into the dark”. In the machine, when you turn the ring, nothing happens - except for turning the slide on the inner glass of the bayonet - in fact, it transfers the aperture value to the Spotmatic of those series, in which, taking into account the mechanically transmitted information about the aperture from the lens, taking into account the TTL measurement and the shutter speed selected on the ring according to the shutter speed and the command occurs in the viewfinder more less equal. When we slap on the descent, the U-shaped #erashechka in the shaft rises, drowning the movable jumper on the lens, the aperture closes to the desired value and the shutter is triggered, exposing the frame.
Please note that I have noted not about the pin of the skipping rope, but for the additional pin. It is clearly and clearly written in my review.
How the aperture setting on the M42 for lenses works is described in many reviews and in separate articles. In this review, I did not repeat this information.
You wrote everything right, about how the Man / Auto switch works and about the principle of how the auto iris works, but that doesn’t change the fact that there are two pins in this lens and I didn’t write about the usual pin to close the diaphragm.
This is clearly shown on this link: 1 main aperture control pin, 2 - an additional one, which is not available with conventional M42 lenses and without pressing which it is impossible to change the position of the Man / Auto switch.
And your tail seems to me to control the dog. In general, on non-working jump ropes it happens in different ways. But at the same time, NOT ONE SWITCH in working order on Takumars does not depend on the tail jumping. Moreover, on adapters like 42-eos, the jump rope is never needed - when the switch is working, we put it in the manual, if it is absent or the mechanism is broken - it also happens - we sink the jump rope into the lens body, bending it a little before that.
Such are Arkady pies. Read sometimes what you focus on readers. In other words, read what you write. I need to read but you read and the hair moves.
No, I don’t think so. You made a mistake in analyzing the problem. Again link to the heart of the problem. Also, for the automation of the jump I have clearly and clearly indicated on the plate
Pribisochka - in the general case, it is a jump rope in order to focus on the sharpness “into light”. It is understood that at any of the diaphragms selected on the lens, we aimed at the native carcass and at the moment the shutter was activated, it automatically worked it - our selected aperture - and worked it off. On the digital, through the adapter, this is no longer a blessing, but as a rule, an extra hemorrhoid, especially in most cases over the past xx years, something is wrong with the mechanism and it has to be collective farmed.
That’s all.
We all know this about the automation of jumping ropes; here, on Radozhiv, this has been described more than once. Therefore, in the review, this information is not explained in detail, but only indicated "automatic aperture control using the aperture ring and aperture pusher of cameras that have it", which in my opinion explains the whole essence of the phenomenon, because the main task of the jump rope is "automation" diaphragm.
And again, you confused the two protrusions on the mount of this Takumar and are trying to fight the mills. Link. Also, note that there is information on the pentax club that users who tried to switch Man / Auto without clamping the second pin damaged this switch, because my posts about an unusual phenomenon for an ordinary M42 lens are justified and designed to leave the lens intact.
Well, I look fixed in the review - it's already good! Sometimes truth is born in an argument - rarely but aptly. I telegraphed EXCLUSIVELY FOR THE JUMP!) Pointed for the kid - great! Thanks.
In the review, I did not fix (did not correct the existing text). I just added a more detailed explanation in the situation (UPDATE) for users, who can make a mistake in identifying the situation, which actually happened. You need to be careful.
The SMC line is, of course, a masterpiece. Almost all.
I have such a lens, I liked the construct very much. But I shot very little on it, a not very popular focal point on my crop. I tried to shoot at full frame through an adapter with a lens, but the quality is lost. a couple of shots on Kenon 10d attached.
I have such a lens, the construct is very good, and the picture pleases. But I shot them a little, as for me this is not a popular focal point on crop. I tried and at the full frame, through the lenses, the quality is naturally noticeably lost, but everyone already knows about this). And so, I liked the glass, for its 4000 rubles of value. For a leisurely shoot with adapters. I remembered that now I had Fujik clearing with focusing, I would have to try it too.
Tell me what kind of square stump in the area of the diaphragm button? Because of it, the lens is not screwed into the adapter by about a millimeter, I just tried to insert it into the carcass hole without the adapter holding it with my hands, it seems that there is even infinity. I wonder what will happen if you cut it? Maybe an adapter with a lens will not be needed?
I came across such a lens and of course you have a review on your website. Thank you so much for your efforts!