This is a brief overview of the MC Helios-44M-4 58mm 1: 2 with serial number 90432268.
MC Helios-44M-4 58mm 1: 2 review
All lenses MS 44m-4, MS 44m-5, MS 44m-6, MS 44m-7 (Jupiter factory) are outwardly identical to each other. For more information about the capabilities of the MC HELIOS-44M-X series lenses, see MC Helios-44M-7 58mm 1: 2 review. The difference between them mainly, lies only in the resolution of the optics. Here is a plate for the resolution of the lenses of the MC HELIOS-44M-X 58mm 1: 2 series of Valdai production:
| MS 44m-4 | MS 44m-5 | MS 44m-6 | MS 44m-7 | |
| Resolution according to technical specifications (center / region): | 41/20 | 41/20 | 45/25 | 50/30 |
| Light transmission coefficient: | 0,85 | 0,85 | 0,9 | 0,9 |
UPDATED
More examples of photos on the MC Helios-44M-4 58mm 1: 2 I periodically add to separate gallery at 500px. There, next to each photo, you can see EXIF with all the basic shooting options.
Below are examples of photos on the MC Helios-44M-4 58mm 1: 2 and on the cameras Nikon D700, Nikon D500, Nikon D90, Sony NEX-3N:
Personally, I am completely satisfied with the MC Helios-44M-4. From the point of view of practical application, I do not see any particular reason to look for a more expensive TOP model MS 44m-7... Although, nevertheless, modifications with major numbers are slightly better. Here link to the archive with the originals - 333 MB, 34 photos in the format RAW with Canon 5D & Canon 350D.
How to use with modern cameras?
Lenses with mounting thread M42 (M42 X 1 / 45.5), such as the lens from this review, are very easy to use on almost any modern digital camera (both SLR and mirrorless), for this it is enough to choose the right adapter (adapter). You do not need to carry out any additional steps to modify the lens.
The cheapest adapters can be found at Aliexpress.com... There are adapters (adapters) with a chip that provide more convenience during shooting, usually chips are used to confirm focus and / or metering exposure, and form the correct EXIF. The chip does not affect the image quality in any way.
For some SLR cameras (for example, with the Nikon F-mount), you need to use adapters with a corrective lens, which allows you to focus correctly at all focusing distances. For any mirrorless cameras, such a lens is not needed, and the adapter is a simple decorated hollow metal tube with an appropriate mount.
For SLR cameras
- Canon: For cameras Canon EOS with bayonet mount EF / EF-S need an M42-Canon EOS adapter, such an adapter with a chip can be found herewithout chip here.
- NIKON: For cameras Nikon DX / FXas well as for cameras Fujifilm и Kodak with a Nikon F mount, you need an M42-Nikon F adapter, you can buy such an adapter without a lens and a chip here, with a lens without a chip herewith chip without lens here, with lens and chip here. Why a lens? Why chip?
- PENTAX: For Pentax cameras with K mount, you need an M42-Pentax K adapter, you can buy such an adapter here.
- SONY/MINOLTA: For cameras with a Sony / Minolta A mount, you need the M42-Sony A adapter, you can find such an adapter without a chip at this linkwith a chip at this link.
- OLYMPUS/PANASONIC/LEICA: For cameras with a 4/3 bayonet mount (not to be confused with Micro 4/3!) You need an M42-4 / 3 adapter, you can buy such an adapter here.
For mirrorless cameras
- SONY: For cameras with 'E'/'FE' mount series SonyNEX и Sony Alpha you need an adapter M42-Sony E (aka M42-Sony Nex), you can find it at this link. An autofocus adapter is also available for these cameras. Techart PRO Leica M - Sony E Autofocus Adapterwhich can be found at this link.
- OLYMPUS / PANASONIC / KODAK / XIAOMI: For cameras with a bayonet mount Micro 4/3 (Micro 4:3) you need an adapter M42-Micro 4/3, you can find it at this link.
- CANON M: For cameras with Canon EF-M mount need adapter M42-Canon M, it can be found at this link.
- CANON R and RF-S: For cameras with Canon RF mount need adapter M42-Canon R, it can be found at this link.
- Nikon 1: For cameras Nikon 1 Series need adapter M42-Nikon 1, you can find it at this link.
- Nikon Z: For cameras Nikon Z series (FX/DX) need an adapter M42-Nikon Z, it can be found at this link.
- FUJIFILM X: For cameras with mount X need an M42-Fuji X adapter, you can find it at this link.
- FUJIFILM GFX: For medium format cameras G-mount need M42-Fuji GFX adapter, you can find it at this link.
- SAMSUNG: For cameras with NX mount, you need an M42-Samsung NX adapter, you can find it at this link. There are no adapters for the NX mini camera yet.
- PENTAX: For Q-mount cameras, you need an M42-Pentax Q adapter, you can find it at this link.
- SIGMA / PANASONIC / LEICA: For cameras with L mount you need an M42-Leica L adapter, you can find it at this link.
- LEICA: For cameras with a bayonet mount Leica M need adapter M42-L / M, you can find it at this link.
If you have any questions on compatibility and adapters - ask in the comments (comments do not require any registration at all).
Comments on this post do not require registration. Anyone can leave a comment. Many different photographic equipment can be found on AliExpress.
Reviews for the Helios-44 2/58 lenses:
- Helios-44 2/58 [KMZ, 13 petals, M39, silver, No. 0220423]
- Helios-44 2/58 [KMZ, 8 petals, M39, silver]
- Helios-44 1: 2 F = 5,8 cm П [KMZ with replaced lenses, No. 0007220, review of the lens from the reader Radozhiva]
- HELIOS-44M 2/58 [KMZ, 8 petals, serial number 7843528]
- HELIOS-44M 2/58 [Jupiter plant, Valdai, 8 petals, serial number 8027170]
- HELIOS-44-2 2/58 [plant 'Jupiter', Valdai, 8 petals, serial number 83052779] + autofocus review
- MS Helios 44-3 2/58 [MMZ, 8 petals, 8619437, 9167912]
- MC Helios-44M-4 2/58
- Helios-44K-4 58mm 1:2 [KMZ, 6 petals, Pentax K]
- MC Helios-44M-4 58mm 1: 2 [plant 'Jupiter', Valdai, 6 petals] + autofocus review
- MC Helios-44M-5 58mm 1: 2 [Jupiter plant, Valdai, 6 petals]
- MC Helios-44M-6 58mm 1: 2 [plant 'Jupiter', Valdai, 6 petals]
- MC Helios-44M-7 58mm 1: 2 [plant 'Jupiter', Valdai, 6 petals]
- An article about most of the major modifications of the Helios-44 series
- Gallery of pictures on MC Helios-44M-4
- Look at modern the lenses 'Helios' can at this link
- A lot of Helios of all varieties can be found on ebay this link
Original 'Carl Zeiss Jena Biotar 2/58 ':
- Carl Zeiss Jena Biotar 1: 2 f = 5,8cm T [17 diaphragm blades, M42]
- Carl Zeiss Jena Biotar 2 / 58 T [12 diaphragm blades, M42]
- A lot of Biotars of all varieties can be found on ebay this link
Look at modern the lenses 'Zenitar' и 'Helios' can at this link.
Familiarity with the Soviet Helios brand lenses I recommend starting with an inexpensive and common lens Helios-44-2 2/58 (aka HELIOS-44-2 2/58). The following links can look at modern lenses Zenitar и HELIOS.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram
Thanks. Is it worth changing this lens (Helios 44-m4) to Zenitar 50 / 1,7. Thanks.
I have two 44m lenses judging by the marking Belarusian and ms44m-4 Krasnogorsk. The first worked for 20 years at the Zenith, the second bought in a new state. I have a camera
Sony 58, when installing manual lenses through an adapter, all automation works without dandelions, which greatly facilitates the work with the manual, in fact, only the aperture and focus are twisted manually. For a long time (hundreds of frames) I tested both lenses in different situations, sometimes setting them in very severe conditions on the verge of their capabilities. I didn’t see much difference between them, they behave quite predictably for Helius, soapy on two, sharp at 5.6, with the correct white balance, good (correct) color reproduction, harsh before Color dissolved in bright light, soft shade. But in the shade, ms44m-4 seems a little better to me in terms of color rendering. I took Jupiter 37a for testing, I liked Gelius more in color rendering, especially in the shade, although in sharpness it is better than Yu-37a in infinity. But the main advantage of Helius because of which it you need to have it, it’s bokeh, it’s very cool worse than expensive imported counterparts. Do not think that Gel will replace you with good firm optics, I have Sonya and minolts, and Gel is much inferior to them. But you can buy it to help the whale to hold out until you buy a good one optics (amateur). Those who had no experience p I have to learn a lot about the manual, I won’t get a good result right away. Don’t forget to drown the rope before installing it on the camera, otherwise it will damage it. Total! It’s a pretty decent lens for 10-20 dollars, and in spite of my optics park I often take Gel when I go shoot for the soul.
I also want to add my impressions of working with Helios-ms44m4 (I apologize for the mistake in the name in the previous comment). When installing its A-58, you cannot trust the automatic white balance, with a bright sunny day, you must always select the balance manually and not look what there it is indicated on the scale. Probably this is due to the "proprietary" Soviet multi-enlightenment, sometimes the lens gave out wild colors in bright sun and when the BB was set to the sun, and beautiful pictures with BB in the shadow. BB: I saw something similar on the MC U-37. he gave the green house gray and the brown frames pink, when selecting the BB everything fell into place. Another problem with a very bright sun, when I had to set the aperture to 11, there was a very hard transition between light and shadow, and reducing the shutter speed did not really help. I bought an ND-4 traffic light when installing
the aperture became about 8 and the transition of the light shadow improved significantly. I found an unexpected
using this lens, it turned out to have a very large depth of field, somewhere out of 8 it’s so impressive that it’s 2-3 meters from the lens (I didn’t check), and I shoot video on it in the manual mode, the depth of field shows me the pick-up (the entire area of sharpness they are painted over in the given color) with virtually no need to twist the ring of sharpness, and if I twist, I clearly see the depth of field. In general, it comes out pretty well, and besides
nor any autofocus engine buzzing.
Dear Oleg. I became interested in the features of shooting on the Sony Alpha 58 with a 44m-4 heliosom. Please enlighten an extremely novice photographer starting from acquiring an adapter (there is a simple one without contacts for autofocus), features of installation on a body (do you need something to fix, block?) Well, I will be grateful for an educational program on this topic, otherwise why not rush such a rich rich with lenses for a thousand bucks and terminology (at the level of the Chinese language for beginners photo lovers). I apologize to the luminaries of the case that I climb in with my denseness.
For video, take 44-2 better - there the aperture is smoother and stepless.
Any adapter can be taken. For 44M-4 - with a "shelf" for locking the jump rope.
Just put the lens on and shoot the video. First you need to learn how to quickly focus on objects in the foreground and background, then - on moving objects ... Learn to select the right aperture ...
In the case of 44-2, preset the aperture to 16 and open / close during shooting smoothly as needed.
In the case of the 44M-4, it is even simpler - there is one control ring, but the diaphragm also switches with clicks, and there are only six blades.
I tested four lenses in the room today, Helios ms44m4,44m, minolta 50 / 1.7, and Sony 18-55. I took it off a tripod in low light at ISO 800 of aperture priority (open, 3.5,5.6) with automatic shutter speed. All the lenses were in the same conditions. Sony’s camera was a 58 stabilizer on the matrix. Despite the first two lenses I tested on the street in daylight, this is described above, the room test gave an unexpectedly interesting result. The 44m4 ms gave very good sharpness on the open aperture, when closing sharpen very much sya.44m completely lost the test for open full soap, when closing the diaphragm the sharpness is so weak that even by 5.6 in sharpness it is worse than ms44m4 in two (the lens is very worn out). The minolta in open and this 1.7 was less than ms44m4 in sharpness but further the result was leveled, although It seems to me all the same, Gel is sharper, you need to remove the tables to get to the truth. But during daytime shooting, the color rendering of the minolts is simply gorgeous. Kit 18-55 showed a satisfactory result by beating Toko 44m. I was very lucky with my copy, having extensive experience in communicating with manua I can say with Soviet optics that quality completely depends on the given instance and not on the model.
Hello. I just wanted to buy 44-2 today, but I did not like his condition. The store had 2 44M-4s and their windows were cleaner. But on the petals, both have oil. How critical is this?
Gentlemen, good day. Tell me how best to press the pimp on the diaphragm, what would you manually configure?
remove the back cover and put a small piece of 2-4 mm tube from the ballpoint pen shaft on the pimp from the inside, put the pimp and the cap back on, and…. about a miracle !!! :))) And you can also look at the u-pipe, I spied this method from one skillfully, made it on my Helika in 5 minutes with the search for a rod :))) there you can see the method of alteration to infinity. but I didn't do it myself. The lens block must be twisted, the mirror can touch ... there are craftsmen wind threads between the lens and the adapter ring.
Shark, if the diaphragm doesn’t stick, it’s not critical. I had jupiter all in oil, and it stank of oil so that after it my hands smelled for a long time, but everything worked fine. Denis, there is a video on YouTube how to block a jump, it’s not at all difficult.
what to do if the pedal on the skipping rope breaks off and now the beam does not work
the pedal on the jump rope broke off and now the rocker does not work…. Petrosyan nervously smokes ...))))
So I write to him
who knows what to do if the pedal on the skipping rope breaks off (goes over and it breaks off) and now the beam does not work, is there any way to replace it and what
m42-nikon adapter (or canon) can be bought here http://olx.ua/list/user/Bewr/
Arkady, hello. Found in his bins an interesting lens MC HELIOS-44K-4 58mm 1: 2 M52 * 0,75. Can you tell me something about him? Thanks in advance.
Sergey will describe in the coming days, or even better, indicate your email in the comment, I will send you my phone, because it will take a long time to describe.
Good afternoon, lovers of the photo. Today I conducted a vedeo test on Helios ms44m4 lenses (black),
Helios 44 (white m39 thirteen masons) and Industar 50 (white m39). Black new, White
the beginning of the sixties, I can’t determine more precisely, the number starts with two zeros, Industar 66g.
The last two lenses spent half a century on the cameras and battered with life.
on the machine, to the Sony 58 camera. All lenses are Krasnogorsk. The result is very interesting, according
sharpness and contrast the leader is Black, slightly bluish, White gives a softer picture, he turns yellow with warm tones, Industar lost this round, the video is not sharp and not contrast, the backlight illuminates the picture (shoot only with his back to the sun). But the dynamic situation is the opposite, Industar in as a result of low contrast, it produced the most readable picture, even black on black and white on white were read, it didn’t go to any shades of color, White is sharper and more contrast, DD almost reaches Industar, but the depth of field is less. Black Finally, despite the fact that I was shooting them before a fight Video
he lost with white, DD came out of him terrible, very hard transitions in brightness, black on black is practically unreadable, but even worse with white, although it is very sharp and has a large depth of field, I tried the same result on different apertures.
the contrast in processing is most suitable for Industar videos, White is not very bad, but the yellowness spoils the picture a little, but I won’t shoot videos on Black anymore.
I bought for 20 gr. and white for 100g, considering the price, an excellent replacement for a whale, although I have the skill
very good lenses, shooting on Soviet optics is my hobby.
Of the Helios, the wisest thing is to choose a 13-petal for the video with a number on 02 or 000. Those on 00 - with blue lenses - very much shit with their enlightenment: they turn yellow and easily lose contrast, they cover everything with a blue veil. Although quite sharp.
I have the best result - with Helios-44 with number 000 and changing the front and rear lenses for MC Helios-44M-7 lenses. Thus, I got excellent contrast, gorgeous natural color reproduction and good sharpness (did not get any worse).
Good afternoon, Sergey. I’m writing an answer to your request. You buy an adapter ring m42-Sony A, you don’t need any chipped dandelions for Sony, in the settings menu, find the line allow
work the camera without a lens, set yes, put the camera's operation mode in priority
aperture, in this case, all the settings and focus confirmation will work for you (focus picking will fill the area of sharpness in the given color), and the stabilizer will also work on
matrix if it is activated in the menu. Sony A 58 is a camera with good features, also in
it has a screwdriver for autofocus Minolot. I recommend it as the first manual lens
Helios 44.2, Rodion has already described him, he is not expensive with a good picture and shoot, shoot,
When experience comes, buy Minolta 50.1,7 as a fix, 28-105 XI zoom, and SONY 55-200
they will block all your needs for a photo, if the funds do not allow, then take 28-105, he will not
dear but the quality is excellent as in all Minolt. I wish you success.
Oleg, thank you so much for your detailed tips and comments !!!!. And, if there is anything sensible and interesting in your opinion on this topic in the Internet, I will be glad to hear the links.
Good day, Sergey. I’m glad that my tips helped you, on the Internet try to type Sony 58 in YouTube, you can find something sensible. I advise you to download the full instruction (it does not go in the kit) and study it very well, this camera is one of the best in its class in terms of functionality. I in due time
Having studied the possibilities of 58 (not to mention 77), a brand of a well-known brand (I won’t say which one, or its aggressive adherents will start writing curses addressed to me), realizing its miserable functionality compared to Sony, plus the availability of magnificent Minolt lenses. Sony’s lens is not bad at all (believe the experience of a person through whose hands many lenses have passed), I still use it as a shirk. Sergey, create an email address (it’s not difficult) publish it in comments, and I will send you my phone, and then it annul if he is you olshe not needed. In the conversation, I will give you all the experience and knowledge.
Oleg, my address ends in ru, that is, a phone call will cost a lot. Very grateful for your participation. I also wanted to know which filter should be put on the helios44m-4 to achieve a brighter picture. I shot a video on your advice, I really liked the sharpness and some kind of naturalness, but the picture seems pale.
Good afternoon, Sergey. A pale picture may be for various reasons, there may be a feature
given lens, backlit shooting, improper white balance (described above), I
on Helios noticed that even the number of aperture affects (I have my 44m-4 MC in the shadow when closing
until f-8 begins to go blue), or maybe it's your subjective feeling,
do not succumb to the mistake of novice photographers, wring colors in processing, they should be such as in life, and not artificially bright. But to give the photo a warm shade, you can apply the SKY-1a or 1c filter, the first has a light pink hue, the second is more saturated color, the first one can be used to give warmth, and the second one I use only for portraits, but the fact is that these filters cost no less than Helios (and I bought it by hand), so you can look for Soviet-style filters that are several times cheaper. communication is possible I’ll be via Skype or Viber, but I think that it will not be safe for you, even my relatives, after the beginning of the well-known events, stopped calling from your lands. Goodbye. PS. I will be glad if I helped you.
Friends, I really help you with my experienced tips, I decided to get carried away with photos on the fifth dozen and I am glad that I got to this site. Oleg, my parents were born in Sumy region. I am already in Russia and I have many relatives in Ukraine. You correctly noted that you used to communicate more often and warmer, went to visit every year, now for three years you have not been to the homeland of your ancestors. This year, despite all the fears inspired, we are going to go. The main thing is not to be deployed at the border, but as for the fact that it is dangerous there and in a car with Russian numbers, I cannot and do not want to believe. What should we share with ordinary people and why hate each other? Sorry to branch into the policy.
wrote a comment by chance as an anonymous person, it turned out as if hiding himself. Already funny.
I have 44m-4 and SonyA58. I bought a regular adapter without any contacts on it. Judging by the previous comments, even with such an adapter, the sharpness zone should be painted over (although, I don't understand if there should be an electronic connection between the lens and the body for this). I drowned the jump rope, set it to aperture priority, set OK to the shutter release without a lens, but “Squares” are not painted over, you have to rely on your eyesight, which is not very convenient. Tell me what is the reason. But please, without any advice, buy a "normal expensive" lens, I really like the 44m-4. Thank you.
Good afternoon, Sergey. Go to the menu icon marked with a gear, then point two of this submenu (i.e. gears) and select a line, the level of contour selection is high, and click OK, and you will see the outline that is in focus. You can select the line below. the color of this embroidery, I personally focused on red. It’s just that you turned off this function, I forgot to write about it, there’s no electronic connection between the camera and the lens, only the image is projected onto the matrix, and the lens is the best one that you like and on which uv to make good pictures, and no matter what he firmy.Derzhite me informed of your affairs, good luck.
THANKS, Oleg.! Everything worked out.!
Good afternoon, photo lovers. Recently bought Helios ms 44-3 Belarusian (hereinafter GB) for which a long time
I was hunting, the condition is almost new. Why am I writing here because I compared it with Helios ms 44m-4 Krasogorsky (hereinafter CC). By design, what people thought when they sculpted GB is difficult to say, it’s already impossible to find a more stupid solution, Arkady I’ve already described GB in the review because I won’t repeat it. From myself I’ll just add that the aperture ring does not have a scale and which digit you can understand only by eye, or by setting the ring before setting it to the desired value and turning the aperture ring all the way. Focus ring not rests against an adapter but with it is easy to rub about it, as a result of which, probably, there is a shortage to infinity. GK is deprived of all these imperfections and assembled very soundly, but it has a big question on the lenses, in the middle of the lenses there is a kind of absolutely white ring (who knows, tell me), the aperture has shine and in the sun you can let the bunnies go, how shiny it is. In GB, although not perfect, the ends of the lenses and aperture are blackened. After taking pictures in the shade and in the sun, I came to the following conclusions (Minolta 50 f 1.7 also participated in the comparison), the Civil Code worst picture, in sharpness and to nrasnosti everything is fine I already opisoval, but the bright sun is very strong swims white balance, dynamic range is very bad, very bright places and deep shadow can not be read in the shade
the picture goes blue, with an aperture of 5.6, it is already blue so the picture is unusable.
I gave the pictures just a cut better, despite the fact that the sharpness is worse in the open, but covered
aperture literally at 2.4 we get the same results already, in color it produced just a fantastic result as for Helios, giving out colors almost similar to Minolta (this is the first
from all that I went through, 8 pcs.), the colors are not distorted either in the sun or in the shade, the dynamic is also not bad, although it does not reach the Minolta. Despite all the design flaws, GB significantly surpasses the GC in the quality of the picture, and all the other Helios that I had the skill to do, we will dwell on it. All that I have described here is my opinion and I do not claim to be correct.
PS. I have a Pentacon 135 f 2.8, the lenses are not blackened, the aperture glistens, and the pictures are just super (when comparing the aperture of the GK and the Pentacon, I saw that it has a clearly bluish tint on the GK.
Oleg1, I would like to receive a link by which you can see your photo works. and how you can be found in classmates, VK or Facebook?
Good afternoon, Sergey. I don’t shoot anything special (home, family, friends sometimes nature), I don’t think
that it’s interesting to anyone, and I don’t consider myself a great connoisseur, although I’m shooting
for many years. I just really like photos, buy lenses, select the best, although I really shoot
three or four glasses, the rest are in the collection. Periodically I take them and go to remove so that they
saw the world, because they were created for this. And somewhere it didn’t occur to me to expose my photos, and I don’t think that I have anything to brag about. Now I'm saving up for the A-99 (I’ll be selling in the autumn
all my collection) I want to go to a higher level, maybe then something will come out better.
Good luck to you and everyone passionate about photography.
But after all, among the "non-special" photos, there are most likely interesting ones from the point of view of the plot, light, character, choice of the angle of the photo. Many of them are due to the peculiarities of a particular lens or camera model.
But among the “non-special” photos, there are most likely interesting ones from the point of view of plot, light, character, choice of shooting angle. Many of them are due to the peculiarities of a particular lens or camera model.
Good day. Is this an instance of mine? Aperture 4,0 Soaps from below the spot http://s001.radikal.ru/i193/1608/5f/e1a54029ba23.jpg.
The lens is brand new, here is another photo, aperture f4, a flat sheet of paper, not a book. Focus on the word specification. http://s019.radikal.ru/i608/1608/27/3581a99745d1.jpg
There is one available, in excellent working condition. Who needs to write: news24-7@mail.ru