Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 35mm 1: 1.8G SWM Aspherical (abbreviated as Nikon 35mm f / 1.8G DX) was announced on February 9, 2009. Now this lens is quite popular and it is easy to find both new and used.
Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 35mm 1: 1.8G SWM Aspherical Review
In brief about the Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 35mm 1: 1.8G SWM Aspherical
Nikon 35mm f / 1.8G DX IS standard fast fixed lens for Nikon DX cameras... In this case, the word 'standard' refers to the focal length and means that the lens provides a moderate angle of view of 44 ° across the frame.
Nikon 35mm f / 1.8G DX has large aperture... The maximum relative aperture to which the lens aperture opens is 1: 1.8, which is a very good indicator. The Nikon 35mm f / 1.8G DX is usually a complement to 'dark' versatile zoom lenses such as Nikon 18-55mm 1: 3.5-5.6GII VR II AF-S DX Nikkor or Nikon 18-105mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED Nikkor VR AF-S SWM DX IF Aspherical. If we compare the maximum aperture of F / 5.6 used in these zoom lenses with the F / 1.8 used in the Nikon 35mm f / 1.8G DX, the difference will be more than 2 steps, which is about 10 times. Thus max aperture this lens is 10 times larger than regular zoom lenses mounted at the extreme zoom position. So big aperture simplify shooting in low-light conditions. For example, in due time I shot without problems on this lens in temples wedding ceremoniesand baby baptism.
Nikon 35mm f / 1.8G DX is a fixed lens, which means its focal length is always the same (there is no zoom function). Fix lenses make it much easier and at a more modest price to get very good optical performance. So, this Nikon 35mm f / 1.8G DX has very good sharpness, inaccessible to a large number of zoom lenses.
The Nikon 35mm f / 1.8G DX is also a very compact and lightweight lens, it is easy and simple to always carry. Below you can see photos from my vacation, for which I took a lightweight Nikon 35mm f / 1.8G DX along with a lightweight camera Nikon D40.
To summarize quickly, the Nikon 35mm f / 1.8G DX is a lens from the category 'Must Have'. 35 mm focal length on the camera Nikon DX give the same angle of view as a 52.5mm lens (virtually the same 'half a ruble') on the camera Nikon fx. Such a lens is suitable for a wide range of photo tasks.
Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 35mm 1: 1.8G SWM Aspherical with front and rear covers
Main technical characteristics of Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 35mm 1: 1.8G SWM Aspherical:
| Review Instance Name | Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 35mm 1: 1.8G SWM Aspherical 2166388 |
| Basic properties |
|
| Front Filter Diameter | 52 mm, plastic thread for filters |
| Focal length | 35mm Equivalent Focal Length (EGF) for cameras Nikon DX is 52,5 mm (Spoiler: I’ll soon get away from these meaningless comments about focal lengths and their recounting. Everything is exactly as described above. Without options.) |
| Zoom ratio | 1 X (this is a fixed lens, it does not have a zoom) |
| Designed by | for Nikon DX digital cameras (with APS-C sensor) |
| Number of aperture blades | 7 rounded pieces |
| Tags | bayonet mount tag and hood mount |
| Diaphragm | F / 1.8 to F / 22, without aperture ring. |
| MDF | 0.3 m, the maximum magnification ratio is 1: 6.3 (the smaller the second number, the better the ability to macro) |
| The weight | 200 g |
| Optical design | 8 elements in 6 groups, 1 aspherical element (in the optical diagram, the aspherical element is shown in blue). The presence of such elements on the lens barrel is indicated by the inscription 'Aspherical'. The image of the optical circuit is clickable.
 Optical design Nikon 35 1.8G DX Most likely the aspherical element is a hybrid aspherical, i.e. consisting of a conventional spherical lens coated with plastic aspherics. |
| Lens hood | Nikon HB-46 |
| Manufacturer country | MADE IN CHINA (Made in China) |
| Period | From March 2009 to the present |
| Instructions | View -> |
| 3d view | View -> |
| Price |
It just so happens that the Nikon 35mm f / 1.8G DX is the only truly 'fast' prime lens specifically designed for cameras Nikon DX. Other fixed lenses Nikon
- Nikon DX AF Fisheye Nikkor 10.5mm 1:2.8G ed
- Nikon DX AF-S Micro Nikkor 40mm 1:2.8G SWM.
- Nikon DX AF-S Micro Nikkor 85mm 1:3.5G ED VR SWM IF Micro
have much less aperture.
Designations on the Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 35mm 1: 1.8G SWM Aspherical
Assembly
The copy from this review was made in China. The Nikon 35mm f / 1.8G DX is quite pleasant to the touch, its plastic body does not cause any discomfort. It is very good that the lens uses a metal mount, which is at least some sign of a quality lens assembly. The lens uses commonly used 52 mm filters.
Please note that the Nikon 35mm f / 1.8G DX mount side has a special dustproof and waterproof mount seal, which is an indication that the lens has a base mount. dust and moisture protection. Unfortunately, the rest of the case is not protected from the negative impact of the external environment. More information on the all-weather protection of Nikon SLR lenses can be found here.
Nikon 35mm f / 1.8G DX uses a rubberized focus ring. There are bayonet mount tags and a tag for quick hood installation on the case. The lens uses a strong plastic lens hood HB-46, which is fixed in special grooves located near the front lens of the lens. The lens hood comes with the lens. The hood can be installed in the opposite direction for transportation. In this position, access to the focus ring is completely lost.
The Nikon 35mm f / 1.8G DX comes with a soft velor case CL-0913, with which you can transport the lens.
Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 35mm 1: 1.8G SWM Aspherical lenses and rounded aperture blades
Microprocessor pins and Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 35mm 1: 1.8G SWM Aspherical rear lens
Focusing
Nikon 35mm f / 1.8G DX focuses quietly thanks to 'SWM'-motor (Silent Wbird Motor - quiet wave motor) and refers to the lens'AF S'type (with built-in motor focusing), and therefore it will automatically focus on any Nikon digital SLR camera.
Auto Focus Speed - average. I want to note that the Nikon 35mm f / 1.8G DX focuses slower than Nikon AF-S Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.8G SWM Aspherical и Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor. On cameras Nikon D40 и Fujifilm FinePix S5 Pro the lens focuses tenaciously and does not release objects from the field of focus. Note that there are a lot of rumors on the net that the lens may not focus accurately (have 'back' or 'front' focus). I've had 4 different similar lenses in use all the time, and they all worked and focused properly.
During focusing, the front lens remains stationary. The lens uses RF focusing (Rear Focusing), which is done by moving the back of the lens group. For practical use, focusing type RF is no different from focusing type IF ('Iinternal Focus' - 'Inner Focus'). With this lens, you can easily use any filters, for example, polarizing.
The minimum focusing distance is only 30 cm, while you can shoot Macro with 1: 6.3 magnification... The Nikon 35mm f / 1.8G DX has neither a window with a distance scale, nor a depth of field scale, nor a mark for working in the infrared spectrum. In manual focusing mode, the ring rotates approximately 90 degrees, when reaching the extreme positions, it does not rest against it, but continues to slide without affecting focusing. Manual aiming is easy. True, some users of this lens still blame the tight rotation of the focusing ring.
On the lens housing you can find focus switch 'M / A - M'. In the 'M / A' position, auto focus works with constant manual focus priority. The 'M / A' mode is very convenient and useful - for manual focusing or focus correction, you do not need to additionally switch the lens to the 'M' mode. You can turn on the 'M / A' mode and forget about this switch forever.
Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 35mm 1: 1.8G SWM Aspherical with Nikon HB-46 blend
Diaphragm
Diaphragm lens consists of 7 rounded petalswhich form a fairly even hole. Diaphragm closes to F / 22. The lens does not have an aperture control ring, nor does the DOF scale.
Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 35mm 1: 1.8G SWM Aspherical with Nikon HB-46 hood in transport mode
Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 35mm 1: 1.8G SWM Aspherical with Nikon HB-46 lens hood Nikon D3300
Lens features on Nikon FX full-length cameras
Interesting: the lens has a good margin of performance, it can work with grief in half and on full-size Nikon FX cameras (for which it is not designed to work) Here is the link on mine sample photos on Nikkor AF-S 35mm f / 1.8G DX and full-format camera in FX image area mode.
Image quality
Good picture quality is obtained due to use aspherical element in the optical circuit of the lens. On foreign sites they write that the lens uses plastic inserts for a hybrid aspherical element, I did not find detailed information about this. Chromatic aberrations (HA) are highly visible until F / 3.2. The purple halo (Purple fringing), which is difficult to remove even when shooting in RAW and post-processing. To catch such a halo, you need to try. The purple halo border is the only major drawback of this lens.
In general, the lens has “cream” bokeh. Don't expect the lens at f / 1.8 to blur the background too much when photographing portraits. For portraits, any half a ruble (50mm fixed lens). I recommend reading my article about how to take pictures with a blurred background.
Distortion 35 mm still remained and quite a bit makes its own negative adjustments.
Vinienting imperceptibly at any aperture. Natural color renderingeasily fixed by setting white balance in the camera. Lens very sharp at any aperture.
Dimensions Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 35mm 1: 1.8G SWM Aspherical and Whale Lens Nikon 18-55mm 1: 3.5-5.6GII VR II AF-S DX Nikkor
Alternatives
If you are looking for a lens of this class, then The following lenses can serve as alternatives at a similar cost or functionality:
- Sigma 30mm F1.4 DC HSM ART
- Sigma 30mm 1: 1.4 EX DC HSM
- Nikon DX AF-S Micro Nikkor 40mm 1: 2.8G SWM
- Yongnuo 35mm 1: 2 (YN35mm F2N, for Nikon cameras)
My experience:
The 35 mm fix, even on the DX matrix, is quite short and not familiar to me, but shooting with this lens is a fairy tale! Ergonomics and functionality on top. All those who want to upgrade their whale lens, I recommend this particular Nikkor AF-S 35mm f / 1.8G DX.
More examples of photos on the Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 35mm 1: 1.8G SWM Aspherical with source RAW files can be found in the review Nikon D3300.
Lens prices
The real prices for Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 35mm 1: 1.8G SWM Aspherical can be found in stores and catalogs:
Comments on this post do not require registration. Anyone can leave a comment. Many different photographic equipment can be found on AliExpress.
It is often difficult to choose between Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 35mm 1: 1.8G SWM Aspherical and Nikon AF-S Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.8G SWM Aspherical, thoughts about this find here.
I am also often asked how this lens differs from Nikon AF Nikkor 35mm 1: 2D, the difference is described in detail here.
An accurate list of all Nikon DX Nikkor lenses
- 10.5 mm/ 2.8G AF Fisheye [gold ring]
- 35 mm/1.8G AF-S
- 40 mm/2.8G AF-S Microphone
- 85 mm/3.5G AF-S VR Microphone
- 10-20 mm/4.5-5.6G AF-P VR
- 10-24 mm/3.5-4.5G AF-S
- 12-24 mm/4G AF-S [gold ring]
- 16-80 mm/ 2.8-4IN AF S VR [gold ring]
- 16-85 mm/3.5-5.6G AF-S VR
- 17-55 mm/2.8G AF-S [gold ring]
- 18-55 mm/3.5-5.6G AF-S [black / silver]
- 18-55 mm/3.5-5.6GII AF-S [black / silver]
- 18-55 mm/3.5-5.6G AF-S VR
- 18-55 mm/3.5-5.6GII AF-S VR
- 18-55 mm/3.5-5.6G AF-P
- 18-55 mm/3.5-5.6G AF-P VR
- 18-70 mm/3.5-4.5G AF-S
- 18-105 mm/3.5-5.6G AF-S VR [Thailand / China]
- 18-135 mm/3.5-5.6G AF-S
- 18-140 mm/3.5-5.6G AF-S VR [Thailand / China]
- 18-200 mm/3.5-5.6G AF-S VR [Japan / China]
- 18-200 mm/3.5-5.6GII AF-S VR
- 18-300 mm/3.5-5.6G VR
- 18-300 mm/3.5-6.3G VR
- 55-200 mm/4-5.6G AF-S [black / silver, Japan / China]
- 55-200 mm/4-5.6G AF-S VR
- 55-200 mm/4-5.6GII ED VR
- 55-300 mm/4.5-5.6G AF-S VR
- 70-300 mm/4.5-6.3G AF-P
- 70-300 mm/4.5-6.3G AF-P VR
Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 35mm 1: 1.8G SWM Aspherical on Camera Nikon D3300
Results
Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 35mm 1: 1.8G SWM Aspherical is an excellent standard high-aperture prime lens for cropped Nikon DX cameras. The lens has excellent sharpness and compactness, works on all digital SLRs Nikon. The lens has only one serious drawback - strong purple halos on the contrasting details of the image.
If you have any question about this lens, feel free to ask it in the comments and they’ll answer for sure. Also, in comments write your reviews, impressions, opinions and ratings of this lens.
UPDATE 1: A cheap similar lens went on sale in 2016 - Yongnuo 35mm 1: 2 (YN35mm F2N, for Nikon cameras, review at this link).
UPDATE 2: in 2020, a large overview of the premium lens appeared on Radozhiv Sigma 30mm 1: 1.4 DC A (Art).
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram
Good time of the day members of the forum. Having bought such a lens a week ago, I was surprised by the mis-focusing during shooting through the viewfinder. Because in the Live View mode, the clarity increases significantly, then after studying the branch, I believe that the problem is in the front or back focus. But since 35mm is my second lens, I decided to compare it with the available 18-140 zoom (I took the photo at 35mm, f4.2) and…. despite the slower shutter speed (1/13, handheld shooting), the photo turned out to be clear (better than with 35mm in any version, well, maybe even a VR lens). By the way, I tried later to shoot at 35mm via Live View with a similar aperture (f4.0), but still did not reach the sharpness of the “zoom” (long exposure, handheld shooting ...). The questions are as follows:
- do you need to adjust only the lens itself or together with the camera? (with “zoom”, the D5500 camera focuses well through the viewfinder or Live View);
- since I bought a lens from my hands (it makes no sense to talk about checking ... I saw it only when I took a picture myself for a few days), then does anyone know how much the repair may cost (the warranty has flown by) and how long this procedure takes? (I am interested in view of the fact that there is no service center in the city - only a reception center, so a long gimmick is very likely. Maybe it makes sense to go to a city where there is a s / c for a day, for example ...).
Thank you in advance for specific answers ...
PS I attach photos taken at 35mm through the viewfinder, also in Live View and zoom. The settings are the same.
I almost did not succeed with the photo….
Left to right, focusing on the ball: 35mm in the viewfinder (1/80, f1.8) / 35mm in Live View (1/80, f1.8) / “3um” 18-140 (1/13, f4.2 )
Excerpt for you, apparently, is long. Front-back focus is not possible in LiveView. Alignment is needed exactly. With or without a camera - no one can tell. Better with a camera, without - a lottery (everything depends on your camera). Alignment isn't a repair - it usually costs 30 bucks.
Thanks. Today I also tried to shoot - only with this lens, when shooting through the viewfinder, the focus goes out, in Live View mode it focuses accurately. I looked, there is another year of service on the lens. Does the alignment fall under this?
I can’t tell, I have to ask.
Help with joy. Treba adjustment of the lens. Can I get help to the service? Although it’s recommended in the past, but about nothing in the net of negative negative feedback. Paragraphs іz priyomu we dumb. On live, focusing is ideal. From 30-40 cm the focus is the focus point forward 5 cm. From the meter is even 10 cm. Meter is 30 and the focus is in front of the meter. 10. The curved head may not pour on the influenza zone. just a picture. Picture. Well, but don’t. Do not. In the portrait, the ni'by is not forgotten. Ale is noticeable, with the farthest eye open, and the neighbor, in a seemingly focussed manner, rosmitium. Yustuvati iz from the carcass D5100 does not even want to be worse? Having tasted 35mm obtek on D500. The near eye on a certain focus is not in focus. Є 18-55. By rіzkostі vіn mene vlashtovє, and hit є nibi for sure. change your mind in one's healthy flu and rest in it it’s not possible to navigate through any focal person. Є 55-200. For 180 mm із meter він, wait for a clear hit in the focus area. Although the flu has a little blow. At 200, I’ll make mistakes, ale to miss that. About that 35mm. Trim in hand instance. Of 10 knowledge_ 2 bullets 2. His focus is alive with his life. And from the test by passing the win. Nek did not have a back-front. Help the deceased with joy, if you can visualize the lens, so that I can see that there are no XNUMX months.
Arkady, with the coming! I don’t remember how long I have been trying to learn how to take pictures following the advice of seasoned photomanes, and it seemed like I started to produce photos of an acceptable level, and I began to think of myself as a photogenic, but my granddaughter crossed out everything. Once I gave her a camera and she played and took some pictures. So, when I printed and showed her photograph, everyone unanimously admired, no, not the quality of the picture, but some attractiveness of this photograph. Out of about 150000 of my photographs, only five photos aroused the interest of the beholder. Interesting but not delight. And how it dawned on me, it’s not about cameras and lenses, but about… but what’s it, I don’t know.
Can you say what?
and you show her pictures among a bunch of others, without indicating who and what was filmed. And even better - let the one who does not know where whose pictures show.
You don’t even have to say that different people were shooting)))
Although the child has fewer rules and more ideas, he sees the world cleaner. Maybe you have no ideas in the frame?
My advice is to find books on composition for student artists (specifically for artists, not for photographers), carefully study and try to build the composition following the rules. Visit art museums more often, gain an artistic view of the world. And you will succeed, since you already own the technical side.
PS And over time, take the granddaughter to an art school. Human life is too short to learn much on its own.
I once observed how parents (far from the computer) were delighted how the child knows how to use the computer. I saw that the child just clicks everything in a row :)
And what does it mean short?
I have such a lens, I immediately bought the Nikon D3100 body and this lens. I miss how much the lens fits in itself. Everything is somehow very close, it is generally difficult to shoot in an apartment in this regard ...
Does focus often miss, or does it also depend on the camera itself?
What do you recommend for a zoom travel street?
Nikon 18-140.
Andrey, thank you very much! Finally, it is understandable, accessible, without arrogance, with respect to the reader!
Michael
By purchasing this year's ob'ktiv.
Tomorrow I'll try for a whole day with him, robbing the signs - winter is very good for us.
I plan yogo vikoristovuvati z D80
Infection є kit iz: Gelios-81N, 18-55, 50 1,8D i 35
I think to sell 18-55, and інші excesses.
18-55 I would be better at covering a wide angle. at the apartment із 35 mm tisnuvato. I’m not selfish with guests.
and I’m not selling nikoli 18-55, I’m selling it for the first wide glybine of rіzkostі. wine is ideal for video, for group photos if people are in a chaotic order, but in 3-5 rows. I nіyake zatiskannya dіrki by 35 mm do not give zmogi otrimati taku glybin rіzkostі. In the skin warehouse, it is designated.
Wide depth of field is it like? In addition to pinching the “hole” by 35mm, there is also a hyperfocal and I recommend a grip calculator. Another question is that the angle may be 35 mm short.
I know the video at 18-55. Navigate through the focal length of 35mm to the entire field of view. Two dimensions and a distance. On fіksі 35 mm ізіky ільки a meter in a zone fokuzhuvannya. The skin asset.
what is good for a photographer, death for a videographer
I know the photo. 35 mm blow fit. Ale 18-55 at the reporting zyomtsі krashche.
my hands too do not rise to throw 18-55 :)
At 35mm and, for example, a 5,6 diaphragm, the flu will be the same for both fix and zoom. You, excuse me, are talking nonsense.
Hello everybody. I took a 35mm f1,8g DX SWM fix from my neighbor tonight, used it, he was lying around, tried to take a few shots, right there at his house, it was still relatively light, but the sun went down, cars 15 meters away, turned out to be 4 balls , the rims are not quite sharp, and the neighbor has several shots and all is not sharp? What's the matter, I didn't notice the autofocus, I tried to fix it with the ring, I didn't understand, as if the free rotation was unchanged ... maybe I was thinking to buy it, I would give it for a purely symbolic price and I don't know, tomorrow I'll try it in the afternoon ...
Try to photograph the target (for example, here: http://foto-talk.ru/ststji/proverka-obektiva-na-front-bek-fokus/ ). The lens or camera may have front / back focus. If the camera is D7 *** or higher - there can be a correction to the "fine adjustment of autofocus". But in general, this lens is quite sharp, there is clearly the above problem.
Thanks. I read it, but it's for an amateur, it seemed a bit complicated to me, I'll take pictures again, I'll see ...
Please tell me:
and so:
still:
III:
And what about 1/8, 1/6 excerpts? Have you taken a tripod? And without a tripod and without a stub there should be 1 / 1,5 * 35 = 1/50 and shorter.
Focus on the center point and on the eye closest to you. Auto pick catch on anything.
Shot with hands in aperture priority mode, and why did the camera set such shutter speeds?
I realized that with my hands. How why? Because the camera needs light in order to expose something (in a semiautomatic device). You probably assigned ISO 200 yourself, the machine only needs to increase the shutter speed. I would shoot with 35 / 1,8 like this: ISO - auto, up to 1600 (or 800), MAX allowable shutter speed is 1/60, the aperture could be set even more - 2 or 2,2. In total, we have an expo pair for those conditions: ISO 1600 - a gain of 8 times in light, with the same f2,8 aperture the shutter speed increases to 1/6 * 8 = 1/48, i.e. 1/50 - can be shot handheld. Or ISO 800, aperture f2 is also a shutter speed of 1/50.
Thank you1
35 1.8 the best, tested by me and our guys - https://buynbest.ru/luchshij-svetosilnyj-obektiv-nikon/
inexpensive, fast, universal. Almost ideal, so to speak.
By the way, if the soul lies with portraits, then I recommend 50 1.8 AFS from the latter. Also a good lens and probably any person will fit into the budget.
Basically, the lens is good, but after the experience of shooting with two instances of 35 1.8 on the d7100, I can say the following: use the lens at less than infinity aiming distances. When the focus is set to infinity, at the edges the depth of field zone is shifted to the background and it is impossible to accurately capture the landscape; this effect is not eliminated by covering the diaphragm. And if you want to make a group portrait, you need to arrange people in an arc arched from the photographer, otherwise the faces around the edges will be blurry. I wonder if anyone has specimens without a sharpness curve? On my other 18-55, 10-24 and 85 1.8 lenses there is no such problem.
Hello! Please tell me, you say that 35 mm is not suitable for portraits, you need 50 mm, and in the examples to the article there are a lot of beautiful portraits of girls. What is wrong with them (except boke)? After all, distortion is corrected by two clicks in the editor and after that the image will already be the same as at fifty dollars, I understand correctly? Please answer what will be wrong with portraits shot at 35 mm, except for blurring and close distance to the model when shooting?
If in the classics, then 50 is not suitable for this. 85 and up.
But depending on the desired result, 35 can be used or even less.
Distortion is corrected, but, for example, does not return ears from the back of the head.
I recommend to see (shoot) the same portrait with different focal lengths, compensating for the focal focus distance.
The question is what kind of portrait - full-length or, say, front. In Arkady, all portraits are tall and more, perspective distortions, especially on faces, are not visible. It is clear that to shoot a face with a 35mm lens (even on a crop), you will have to approach this face by about 50cm, and the lens already has perspective distortion, unlike, by the way, from 50, namely, it removes objects in depth, as a result, when shooting in front, we have a large nose, reduced ears, a face extended in depth. Selfies from the hand at a fairly wide angle sin with this, it is not for nothing that they offer a stick to help. 50-k also distorts with the front, but less. So it is believed that 35mm without distortion should be shot full-length portraits, 50-mm - from the waist (maybe chest) and smaller. Although, is it necessary to reject such a portrait (36mm, crop):
and a stick, probably, so that there would be something else in the frame besides the face (sights, etc.)
This is for Freud.
Read on the Internet about the effect of compression of perspective
Read. Shrinks on televisions.
The original lens hood is very unreliable, easy to lose. Maybe someone knows a solution to this problem?
You should hear a characteristic click when it is fixed, after which it is motionless.
There is nothing to click. It seems that you do not have such a lens.
And there is a click)))
Apparently you do not fully snap it. I have never flown from the stopper, although I always wear it without removing it. Try tightening it until it clicks.
Can I use it on a Sony mirrorless with a chipless adapter? It just doesn’t have manual aperture control on it ..
You can, you just can’t control the diaphragm
What alternative can you recommend? There is an adapter for Nikon and M42
Hello everyone. Who will tell you the marking of the petal hood for this lens + for Nikon 50mm f / 1.8G AF-S. Thanks.
Nikon HB-46 is, after all, indicated in the review.
Yes, it’s absolutely true, but you need a petal!
Something in the topic about the 50-ku comment disappeared. Of course, only from Nikon, there is no compatibility. But why? it is already quite large for a small lens - in the transport position it covers almost everything. You can order a threaded thread from China if you really want.
Thanks for the answer. Threaded screw is inconvenient in terms of screwing and as a result - loss of time, there was an experience of using such (not flap)
For a 35-k, a hood from 55-200 non VR HB-34 may come up. But in transport position it will not be delivered and there will certainly be vignetting.
I'll try if possible.
Watch from 0: 58 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8K7MPvQirbo :)
Hood by the circumstances. About a dozen frames ruined due to the fact that he did not use it.
Fixes are short - if necessary, you can cover with your hand. But yes, they are more useful. On Helios 81H and Nikon 105 / 2.5, I screwed metal caps onto a constant - they really do not like exposure. And at the same time protection - I manage on them without protective filters.
I checked another hood for compatibility - HB-69 from 18-55 with a button. No vignetting, but no backside.
Hello, please tell me if such a lens is suitable for reportage shooting, as well as for a portrait and photo shoot in nature? I have Nikon D3100
For portraits not very
Hey. Can someone tell me.
I have problems with this lens.
Single point of focus - I look in the rabbit, real
focus in a completely unexpected place, either in front of or behind an object,
there is no focus in the focus point.
Sometimes the focus at the point is sometimes in a completely different place.
Wore to the service, tested said everything was OK, gave them my picture, looked
They said yes, we see the problem, but we can’t help with anything, everything is ok on the test.
Can someone tell me what to do with this? already just waved, because of this there are a lot of pictures with marriage ....
Do not be lazy to refocus several times, as well as take several pictures. DOF in the open is very small. And do not try to photograph everything open with sufficient light - even at its sharp aperture of 4.0, the background normally blurs.
Ideally, all this should be checked on a more professional camera, whose focus module is more accurate than the simplest (budget) ones
Camera Nikon D5300, with a 55-200 lens 4-5,6 no questions, really no where the focus was aiming there ....
Different depth of field, and a lot. He also misses, only it is not noticeable. One of the advantages of dark lenses is that it forgives minor mistakes.
Check as Valery suggests, only at distances and apertures that you use more often. Remember, if there is a constant shift and make corrections when focusing - for example, when shooting a face, focus not on the eyes, but on the nose, or vice versa on the ears. But it will most likely turn out that the displacement is not so strong, and the defocusing will turn out to be that not everything falls into the DOF.
You would need to more accurately understand the accuracy of focusing on open, and even on covered (f4) apertures on improvised targets such as these:
thanks, I will try to check
or this:
I'll agree what I wanted. Here is a quote from one, also not bad, photosite (Vlador.com about photography equipment ...): “It is worth mentioning the presence of focus-shift (shifting of the focusing point depending on the selected aperture), which is inherent in many high-aperture models. The settings of the tested unit matched my preferences: at f / 1.8 and f / 2.0 there was a small front focus, almost invisible at f / 2.4 and absent at f / 2.8 and beyond. If I mainly shoot portraits, I would have to make an amendment to achieve an accurate hit precisely at open apertures. " And my friend insisted on correcting this front focus in the service and is now complaining that the focus at infinity has disappeared. Knowing your lens, you can adapt. Example at f2:
Good afternoon, Arkady and Colleagues!
Please help in choosing. I have a D7000 carcass and a full-time zoom Nikkor 16-85. I want to bring some creativity to my work (exclusively amateur photography, family, children, trips), I choose my first fix between 35mm 1.8G and 50mm 1.8G. From the genres I prefer landscape, growth and facial portraits. The street / house shooting ratio is probably 85/15. What do you advise?
Oh yeah, I almost forgot, I still have the Zenitar-M 50mm 1.7 with an adapter (which with an enlightened lens) I tried it on the Olympus e-420 before, it wasn’t impressive because of the small viewfinder and the constant misses with focus on the open aperture. I tried it on the D7000 at home, until I realized what was happening, but what I was shooting, it seems, falls into focus, but the D7000 has a good viewfinder.
there is nothing more. Primary needs a strong lens. 50 mm in primitive price stupidly portrait portrait in crore. on a full-frame will be a full-time kratinka. tobto in primіshchennі through svіtlosilu more than 35 mm. and thicker than 18 mm due to the widest angle. Ale will be dark.
in the yard. portraits are more beautiful to be robbed at 1,8 and more focusing, more beautifully. Already even a group knowledge, explaining how to find a way far away. But what do we give the model, Tim less fade background. mean іznitsі mіzh 35 і 50 mm will not be on the background either.
vizhodyachi iz tsogo I raju 35 mm. lightbox + wide cut. and for portraits on the street and blurred background, you can take the same 55-200 і otrimati for 200 mm mile background. tilki in tinі have to come up bully іso, do not lower the window so you don’t lower the window to the shake.
as well as for a portrait, painting in a zone of 100 mm and from 1 to 3 is visible.
there is nothing more. Primary needs a strong lens. 50 mm in primitive price stupidly portrait portrait in crore. on a full-frame will be a full-time kratinka. tobto in primіshchennі through svіtlosilu more than 35 mm. and thicker than 18 mm due to the widest angle. Ale will be dark.
in the yard. portraits are more beautiful to be robbed at 1,8 and more focusing, more beautifully. Already even a group knowledge, explaining how to find a way far away. But what do we give the model, Tim less fade background. mean іznitsі mіzh 35 і 50 mm will not be on the background either.
vizhodyachi iz tsogo I raju 35 mm. lightbox + wide cut. and for portraits on the street and blurred background, you can take the same 55-200 і otrimati for 200 mm mile background. tilki in tinі have to come up bully іso, do not lower the window so you don’t lower the window to the shake.
as well as for a portrait, painting in a zone of 100 mm and from 1 to 3 is visible.