Legend of the last century, the national lens - Jupiter 37A 3,5 / 135. He is called a small telephoto or a large portraiture, which is true. Jupiter 37-A takes first place in my vote on the best Soviet portrait lens in the range of 85-135mm.
Jupiter 37A Lens Overview
Jupiter-37A has interchangeable shank, which is marked on the lens with the letter "A". Replaceable shank allows you to change the "rear" part of the lens, which attaches it to the camera mount. Regarding the replaceable shank, it is necessary to erect a monument to domestic manufacturers for this ingenious move. With the help of an interchangeable shank, this lens can also be attached to cameras under the M42 thread or "H" mount.
Changing the size of the lens Jupiter-37A 3.5 135 when focusing from infinity to MDF
How to use with modern cameras?
'A' lenses with an interchangeable shank, such as the one in this review, are very easy to use on almost any modern digital camera (both DSLR and mirrorless), just select correct adapter. The replacement 'A' shank usually has an external M42 thread and an 'H' mount (similar to Nikon F). For use on modern cameras, the easiest way is to add the required adapter from M42 to the desired system or from Nikon F to the desired system to this shank.
Jupiter-37A on the ZK
In times of mass use, version with MS was twice as expensive as usual, which actually affects the quality of work. Nevertheless, a lens without an MC feels great with the hood installed. The lens hood can be worn backwards, the hood has special grooves that allow it to be screwed in the opposite state into the thread for the light filter. I know of only one Soviet lens that allows you to put on the hood backwards - and that is Jupiter-37A.
Enlightenment of the lens Jupiter-37A 3.5 135
Most likely, Jupiter 37A became a copy Carl Zeiss Jena DDR MC Sonnar 3,5 / 135 (Sonnara / Zonnara). Both lenses are pretty good, but narrowly focused experts say that the Sonnars are nevertheless better assembled and give a slightly sharper image.
Enlightenment of the rear lens of the Jupiter-37A 3.5 135 lens and the view of the aperture blades
Positive aspects and their brief description:
1. Cheap. Of course, in our time it can be obtained at a fairly low price. This is due to its mass production. This allows novice photographer to get a great picture for low cost.
Interchangeable shank and lens Jupiter-37A
2. Normal enlightenment. But even such enlightenment avoids unnecessary glare, Zaitsev. Removes fear of back and side light. But nevertheless, Jupiter-37A is a little afraid of flare and gives a light veil in the generated image.
Hood on Jupiter-37A dressed back to front and in normal position
3. The lens came with a wonderful case with the emblem of the 80s Olympiad. The lens hood and lens hood are conveniently placed in the case. You can see how the lens cases look here и here.
Difference in enlightenment MS and not the MC version of the lens Jupiter-37A 3.5 135
4. Lens hood in delivery. The metal hood is quite long. It sits very well on the lens. But here is one minus of the lens hood that it is metal, it adds extra weight and when screwing the metal into the metal, the lens hood wedges and then it takes a lot of effort to unscrew it back. So I do not advise tightening it up much.
5. With interchangeable shank. I wrote about this at the beginning of the article. Allows you to use photo systems with different working lengths.
6. As many as 12 aperture blades. Therefore, it can act as an excellent portrait lens with smooth circles to blur the background (it has good bokeh).
7. Non-fixed stroke of the iris ring. Let me explain - the ring does not have fixed aperture values of type 4.5, 5.6, 8, but has a continuous stroke ring. This is very useful when shooting video, when you can smoothly close and open the aperture (and not jerkily at fixed values)
8. The large stroke of the diaphragm F3.5-F22. Pretty maneuverable lens. Jupiter-37A has a function of preset diaphragm... To use this function, you need to strangle the aperture ring towards the camera and release it at the desired aperture value. After that, the diaphragm will close only to the specified value. This is quite convenient when working with manual optics - to focus on a fully open aperture, quickly close to the desired value and shoot.
9. Metal case... As they say - give the people bread and circuses, and here - give glass and metal.
10. It works in minus 15 to plus 45 ° C, it is nice to read about it in the instructions before going on a winter photo walk.
Features and their brief descriptions:
- The weight. Over 400 grams, makes you feel all the "power" of the telephoto. But still heavy.
- The location of the diaphragm ring itself is rather inconvenient.
- Close focusing from 1.2 meters, you can forget about macro. The focus ring rotates 270 degrees.
- The thread of the filter is 52 mm, which is a fairly popular diameter.
- The lens has 4 lenses in 3 groups
On the fully open F3.5 aperture, you get slightly soft excellent portraits, but if you close it, then the sharpness is enough with the head for almost all tasks. What does my copy without MS, 1980.
From personal experience using:
I shoot on Jupiter-37A, even when there is very little time to set the sharpness. The picture is excellent. I really like its contrast, although sometimes it seems dull, in the editor it can be made simply incredible. At aperture of 3.5, you can shoot portraits without fear for the soapiness of the glass. Impressions are pretty positive. Here's another interesting comparison of Jupiter-37A and Kaleinar-5N. Jupiter was slightly better.
But if you need to shoot at least slightly moving scenes, then I would prefer any autofocus telephoto, even if it is a zoom and even if it is very dark (does not have enough aperture) and even if from the manufacturer’s know-how, for example, similar to very cheap Quantaray 70-300mm 1: 4-5.6 D LDO MACRO.
Sample photos on crop (APS-C, Nikon DX)
All photos in the gallery below were shot on the APS-C Nikon DX, crop 1.5x. No processing. Reduced size to 2MP, imprinted data from EXIF.
Sample photos on crop (Canon APS-C)
All photos in the gallery below are shot on APS-C Canon 350D, crop 1.6x. No processing. Reduced size to 2MP, imprinted data from EXIF.
Full-frame sample photos (FF, Nikon FX)
All photos in the gallery below are shot on APS Nikon D700 FX Without processing, in JPEG L, VI mode, the size is reduced to 3MP, data from EXIF.
All photos in the gallery below, too, were shot on APS Nikon D700 FX Without processing, in JPEG L, VI mode, the size is reduced to 3 MP, data from EXIF.
UPDATED
Photographer shared examples of photos on Jupiter 37A 3,5 / 135 with readers of Radozhiva Lilia Nemykina:
UPDATE 2
Examples of photos on Jupiter 37A 3,5 / 135 (This one) and the camera Pentax K10D a photographer shared with readers of Radozhiva Yuri Leo.
UPDATE 3
More sample photos on Canon 600D and Jupiter 37A 3,5 / 135 for Radozhiva kindly provided Alexander Frolov.
There are several modifications of JUPITER-37, produced at different times:
- MS Jupiter-37AM 3,5 / 135, 1990-2002 (prefix 'MC' is placed before the lens name)
- Jupiter-37A 3,5 / 135 МС, 1983-1986 (the prefix 'MC' is placed after the lens name)
- MC Jupiter-37A 3,5 / 135, 1986-1989 (prefix 'MC' is placed before the lens name)
- Jupiter-37A MS-N-30 3.5 / 135, 1983-1984, very rare
- Jupiter-37A 3,5 / 135since 1978
- Юпитер-37AМ 3,5/135, 1990-2002
- MC Yu-37A 3,5 / 135, from about 1978
- U-37AM 3,5 / 135 MS
Catalog modern brand lenses 'Zenitar' и 'Helios' can look at this link.
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Hack and predictor Aviator
Jupiter 37A 3,5 / 135 - good lens. The lens has a pleasant background blur and excellent sharpness starting at its widest aperture. Jupiter-37A is one of the best Soviet portrait lensesIt is easy to install on modern DSLR cameras with an interchangeable shank system.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram
I printed a photo of 30 by 40 s of negatives taken with this lens with the aperture open - excellent sharpness! By the totality of all its advantages - picture quality, cheapness and prevalence, I also consider it, if not the best, then one of the best, that's for sure!
Good afternoon. Tell me how to connect this adapter to Jupiter 37a: T2-Nikon F? Just screw it on top or remove the native shank and install the T2-Nikon F. Then the question is, when I take out the middle in the T2-Nikon F and put it on instead of the native adapter - this one hangs a lot on the lens, its governing turns out to be a little wider than the hole of the native (( (
Good day. Remove the old tail, put the new tail, tighten to the maximum with screws. Very rarely, T2 is slightly wider than the tail of KP-A, therefore it is possible to build a gasket from improvised means (a layer of paper, adhesive tape or the like).
My T2 is wider by a decent millimeter or more. It is very difficult to set the center, constantly pulling somewhere in the side. And with this T2 on Nikon, should there be infinity?
Yes it should be
Thanks. We'll have to make an intermediate sleeve ...
My T2 easily screwed in. Yes, there is a gap, but got up quickly and tenaciously. Align the adapter in the center and gently tighten the bolts, not first screwing one to the maximum, but evenly. I also thought about some kind of lining, but it was not needed. The shank replacement procedure took several minutes. Infinity is.
Wrap the lens shank once with a blue electrical tape, and it will sit in the adapter just in the center, and then tighten with screws.
But be sure to blue! :)
Blue gives +5 focus accuracy and +10 stamina.
But if without jokes, a good option.
Well, everything, the operation is on the verge of collapse, all the blue was spent on strengthening the concrete support (so far not a single crack). There are only “major” ones left: black-lavsan and gray-reinforced))) Thank you all, I will reel in real lavsan - it will be for centuries, until I have not seen any steeper yet (except for blue, of course).
What adapter will focus on infinity work on the sony a6000?
With black.
If the shank is loose during installation, then the best way out in this situation is to insert a ring made of sheet brass. Its thickness is determined by a mathematical calculation using a caliper. I do not recommend using materials at hand (cardboard, tape, duct tape, etc.), because in this case, mismatch of optical axes is possible. Good luck to all !
Faced with the same. For half an hour I was looking for a solution. Then I tried dangling Jupiter to press evenly from all sides. The screws went deep into the depths, but pressed. Everything worked out. Somewhere somewhere, a lack of thought.
Is this lens suitable for Zenit ET? Or will he not reveal the "potential" of the lens? And what are its advantages over the stock Helios 44-3?
Will do. And how can Zenith “fail to reveal its potential”? It's just a box. Helios is just a different lens: a different focal point, a different scheme, a different aperture ratio.
As for the advantages, you, in my opinion, have already asked about Jupiter-21A. Around the same.
Good day! I am from Lugansk, I can’t find a shank on Jupiter 37A under Nikon anywhere. Tell me, where can I get it with delivery to Lugansk? Thanks!
The shank is called KP-AN. It was produced at the Kiev Arsenal. If you have friends in this city - contact them ... to find them on the ruins, I guess it will not be difficult.
my copy fell perfectly on nikon with an adapter, there is infinity
really liked the lens
but at 3.5 it is still very soft and chromatite (mb in the MC version is something better)
at 4.5 - everything becomes fine
for ff - an excellent lens, focusing is not very difficult, the picture is excellent, boke is generally super
for crop - 202mm ether, with 1.8m mdf - and manual focus - make it painful to use
I sometimes use it on crop. Mdf - 1,2m. Nothing hurts ).
MDF is recalculated for crop
1.2m mdf ff == 1.8m mdf crop (1.5)
MDF is not recalculated
wrong on recounted
it will remain 1.2m
but still it's hard to focus on 202mm with manual focus
You decide for yourself, you check or go.
If you go, then a bunch of AF-glasses, res to diarrhea, and you will be happy. For any swabda, bomb without a miss.
But if there are checkers, then yes, life is pain, and focusing on 200mm on the open one in the manual is just life.
As for me, glass is good = faceless, no chips, but, in general, oatmeal is also sometimes nice to eat.
Hello! Smart people, tell me, please! I have 4 Soviet lenses - helios, jupiter, industrial and the world. And for some reason, well, one does not have a hood. I read that, for example, for Jupiter-37A is very useful. Where can I find a hood for at least some?
For Jupiter 37A - screw-in, 52 mm. For instance: https://www.ebay.com/itm/52mm-Thread-Screw-in-Mount-Lens-Hood-For-Nikon-DSLR-Camera-High-Quality-Black/273255130719?hash=item3f9f46665f:g:cu4AAOSwdGFYt5DE
Thank you!)
http://ali.pub/2k8v8n for Yu-37A, one of the options
Thanks! I'm going to look)
When dressing with an M42-Canon EOS adapter, infinity is lost? Due to the fact that the distance (sort of like a working distance) will be farther than on older cameras without an adapter? And then everything changes to T2, but you still have written that you can stick KP-A \ H + Nikon mount F - Canon EOS, and KP-A \ 42 + M42 - Canon EOS, but isn't the Jupiter shank A / 42?
Nothing is lost, everything is there, and endlessness too. It's just very difficult to get it, two adapters, plus a removable tail ...
Hello. Arseny, you say that Canon needs either T2 or KP-A42 + M42. But there are two questions, I bought a T2 adapter, but it doesn’t get on the lens, there’s somewhere about half a centimeter of free space, even if you tighten the screws to the maximum. Today I went to watch the M42, because on many sites they write that it suits. M42 itself is smaller than Jupiter's native shank. I decided to look at your version with KP-A42 + M42, but throws it on T42 through a link to KP-A2, and in general a dead end. Please tell me what is the matter, and what to do?
Thank you.
Ugh. I'm sorry, Arkady, not Arseny, I'm sorry.
Most likely you have an unsuccessful T2, sometimes the Chinese make them bad.
Not quite.
There are some troubles with the diameter - the Chinese make several standard sizes of tails, but at the same time they do not always indicate which one is on sale.
If you have a Yu-37 with an M42 shank, then the usual flat adapter M42 → Canon EF.
If the lens has a shank under Nikon, the same Nikon → Canon flat adapter.
If you don’t have a shank at all, then you can use the Chinese T2-mount (and wrap a couple of turns of blue electrical tape over the “tail” of the lens so that it does not hang out) + Nikon → Canon.
But the Chinese ones are often of the wrong size and do not give infinity (is it necessary?).
Good afternoon! I have such a lens with Olympic symbols, i.e. 80 years of release. Firstly, a strange nuance: my hood does not have a thread for twisting backwards, or they forgot to cut it, or from something else, but in appearance it’s the same. Secondly, the question: is there a Pentakov shank on it in nature, or in the old fashioned way through K-M42?
Good day! And how to use this lens with Sony-E mount?
Buy adapter for Sony-E mount.
Thank you.
I mean, the adapter from what to Sony-E?
Either on m42, if there is a native tail, or t2
Thank you!
Tell me please! When installing on Fujifilm x-pro1 through an fx-m39 adapter, the minimum focusing point starts at 3-4 meters, should it be on the crop or am I doing something wrong?
Where does the m39 come from? M42.
I figured it out) It turns out the liner was re-sharpened or something like that, it was decided by screwing the ring 39-42, I thought I had a version like this)
What cameras were equipped with a Jupiter 37A lens from the factory?
It is unlikely that such a fact took place. Helios is another matter.
Jupiter 37A has been lying around for a quarter of a century. MC enlightenment 1988 release. At Zenith it gave disgusting quality, blurry, backlit frames. Recently I dug up the KP-A / N shank among the little things that the widow of a deceased colleague gave me 20 years ago. I ventured to try again on Nikon D-80 and D-750. Suddenly gave great sharp pictures with good blur. Glad and satisfied! Apparently Zenith had flaws ... And the fact that it is not a machine gun is nonsense for us old men. The skills of working with Soviet optics remained. It is additional optics for specific moments ...
Good afternoon! I bought Jupiter 37a for Canon, it doesn't have its own shank, as far as I understand. I ordered an adapter from nikon f to canon eos for Ali. The question is - will this affect the picture and will the focus to infinity disappear? Too much manipulation. But I found only such a copy on sale. Will a chip adapter help with focusing? Thanks!
It will not affect the picture, the chip is optional, it will only add confirmation of focus.
Without kp-a / n on Nikon there will be no infinity !!!!! Conventional adapters and China do not give infinity.
And why is Jupiter-37A infinity?
thanks, useful article, learned to unlock the aperture, I thought it was broken :)
Hello . How different is the viewing angle of jupiter37a from fifty dollars (canon 1.8) on crop?
In times 2.7
That is, Jupiter will be wider?
On the contrary, already.
thank you
For a long time I had MS Jupiter-37A. At first, I used it on Nikon only for macro photography with an adapter ring under the M42 and extension rings. I used a thread adapter with a lens, but removed the macro lens. The lens gives infinity, but in my opinion kills the detail. Therefore, I bought a pair of T2-Nikon F adapters on Aliexpress, but when I received them, it turned out that the thread in the M42 inserts, but with a different step, and the inner diameter of the adapter with the removed liner is much larger than the Jupiter shank. I read that people manage to install an adapter, compensating for the difference in diameters by unscrewing the screws, but there a question arises with alignment. This is not our method! Regarding the adapters, T2 opened a dispute on Aliexpress, the seller returned the money. After that he ordered a ring turner to compensate for the difference in diameters, everything fell apart without backlashes, but it didn’t work out infinity anyway, I had to deepen the lens into the adapter, milling the inner end of the adapter by 0,5 mm. Now everything is fine! There is infinity, fine detailing even on a 3,5 hole! The second adapter was also modified and put on Mir-10A.
Hello ! I read your comment. If it's not difficult, you can more about this part - Deepen the lens into the adapter, milling the inner end of the adapter by 0,5 mm. I'm not a turner, I have friends - how to explain? I would be very grateful! I have such a lens MC Jupiter-37A and Nikon D5100. There is no infinity! You cannot get an adapter. Help.
Also milled deep into, for taira11a.
I bought Jupiter today. He took out a dusty 32kg weight from a niche ....
So, did you do the kettlebell portrait? Do you like it?
He did exercises. Without a stabilizer at 135, it’s not easy to take it off your hands :)
When viewing the lens in the light you can see many many blotches such as bubbles. This does not affect the shooting, but it does not work out. Buyers think it is mold or dust.
Or drops of oil that are easily removed
Is there a reference for disassembling the lens? I will try. And where is the oil from there?
Unscrew the rear lens, and you will be careful with its location (do not overturn). If this oil is removed from it and a cotton swab from the front gluing through the diaphragm. And if not oil then nothing can be done with the bubbles.
Disassemble the front oh I do not advise!
Here, see how to parse:
https://proofbook.livejournal.com/78531.html
We did a review on a portrait lens, but almost no portraits)) I would like to see
https://www.flickr.com/groups/jupiter135mm/pool/with/38647285570/
Friends, does it make sense to buy for Yu37A (I have it usual, without multi-enlightenment) -
protective light filter? A bad filter is somehow reluctant to install, but a good one will come out at a price like half of Jupiter ... is it worth the candle? Or microfiber will not erase the Soviet enlightenment and you can rub as much as you like?
It's not worth the candle ...
Why rub it? Dust off with a brush or better with a pear.
Oh by the way, yes!
Hello everyone. I got Jupiter 37A. I can’t say anything about it. I tried to make a portrait. With a tripod, sharpness is good, even “RINGING”. In winter, in the sun on the snow, the contrast drops dramatically. The lens does not help much. On the street, it is advisable to photograph in cloudy weather or in the “golden hour”. To sum up: The lens is good, but you need to get used to it, know when and where to use it. Portraits work well in a studio with a softbox and other auxiliary equipment
And name at least something from KUCHI, up to three thousand rubles.
I will also add: Bokeh of Jupiter 37A is beautiful. I tried to compare it with CANON 75-300 4,5 / 5,6 (also an inexpensive lens) at the same focal length. Jupiter is many times superior in terms of the “beauty” of the background. But Jupiter37A is not loves the bright sun and loves calm measured shooting with a tripod.
A manualist cannot be reportage. That you have a shake even at short shutter speeds is exclusively your problem, and not the lens, it does not shake on the camera)). Literally the day before yesterday I was walking a freshly bought 37a - everything is fine, and color, contrast, and sharpness. By the way, I shot it in the setting sun, when the exposures were already quite long.
As for contrast, check the lens with a flashlight, maybe microspopic droplets of oil on them that scatter light.
do you compare bokeh fix with bokeh mediocre zoom ???
do you know that as a rule any bokeh fix is better than any bokeh zoom?
Compare Jupiter with other fixes and get a sea of new experiences.
after which, as a rule, Jupiter is put up for sale with advertising as the best portrait portrait)))
funny people posted comments.
type bought a hunchbacked constipation of the hairy 19xx. super cheap, the price is many times lower than any new car.
it’s not necessary to ride, because you need an ideal road, the sun for 6 hours and a minimum slope, and it is imperative that the cancer hangs on the mountain.
but what a preparation process! we undermine the carburetor so that the wheels fit, we train our knees so that the steering wheel does not interfere, we temper the bottom so that the springs do not fit into ...!
we carry weights to push it was possible .. but cheap! legend!
and for the ride we’ll buy in the end another car, where I just drove off. with comfort. and without dancing with a tambourine.
and we will put the constipation up for sale, to the next sucker (crossed out), legendary lover, and for cheap ...
Manualists and Jupiter in particular have offended you with something, or you are just another snob that may not even have good autofocus lenses, but it’s old manual glass. We know such people, things do not go beyond their words. Ask them to reinforce their words with pictures, immediately merge or begin demagoguery.
Well, back up your words with pictures where you can see that the old trash is better.
Old shaggy lenses from the middle of the last century
- have problems with materials (googling Zeiss bubbles as a sign of quality ...)
- do not have sane enlightenment
- problems with counter
- permission problems - soap!
- the lens designs themselves are made by hand without computer modeling and have a lot of problems
- problems of all types of CA, etc.
As a result, pictures of this old trash are suitable for viewing only with downsize up to 2-3mp and with a bunch of other conditions.
How are modern lenses removed? Photo ru, and other sites to help you!
But demagoguery arrived in time. Aahahah ... Tovarisch, go take a couple of pictures, and we will discuss ...
It is clear that slag shots in full size from the vaunted Jupiter cannot be expected from you, it’s logical as an argument to troll with the transition to personalities))).
Unfortunately for you, this will not change the simple fact - the old stuff is good only for buying - playing around - selling it to another sucker.
Well, OK. And what is the argument? I do not have Jupiter. Here, you got a sling under the tail, and everyone should adhere to it and prove something there. There are not enough photos in this thread? Yes, and with what to compare? Everything is relative.
No one is silent about the shortcomings of Soviet glasses, but people like to use them, at least for the first time.
And the fact that modern glass is better, etc. Well, the fool knows that Sunday is a holiday.
Soviet glass is a miserable likeness of the Western counterparts of the time.
So does anyone argue that their main and only advantage is cheapness?
Sharpness is contour contrast.
Soviet trash has problems with both microcontrast and sharpness. But if sharpness can be wound enough for downsizing, you’ll not give permission to you, well, because it’s like soap))).
I hope you are able to understand the difference between sharpness and resolution)))
How much does an autofocus 135 cost?
Well, as for the sharpness, when hands grow out of the wrong place, here at least Zeiss buy, there will be no sense. My 135 problems have no sharpness, and proving something to a demagogue is an ungrateful task. Who needs it, he will figure out whether he needs this lens or not.