Legend of the last century, the national lens - Jupiter 37A 3,5 / 135. He is called a small telephoto or a large portraiture, which is true. Jupiter 37-A takes first place in my vote on the best Soviet portrait lens in the range of 85-135mm.
Jupiter 37A Lens Overview
Jupiter-37A has interchangeable shank, which is marked on the lens with the letter "A". Replaceable shank allows you to change the "rear" part of the lens, which attaches it to the camera mount. Regarding the replaceable shank, it is necessary to erect a monument to domestic manufacturers for this ingenious move. With the help of an interchangeable shank, this lens can also be attached to cameras under the M42 thread or "H" mount.
Changing the size of the lens Jupiter-37A 3.5 135 when focusing from infinity to MDF
How to use with modern cameras?
'A' lenses with an interchangeable shank, such as the one in this review, are very easy to use on almost any modern digital camera (both DSLR and mirrorless), just select correct adapter. The replacement 'A' shank usually has an external M42 thread and an 'H' mount (similar to Nikon F). For use on modern cameras, the easiest way is to add the required adapter from M42 to the desired system or from Nikon F to the desired system to this shank.
Jupiter-37A on the ZK
In times of mass use, version with MS was twice as expensive as usual, which actually affects the quality of work. Nevertheless, a lens without an MC feels great with the hood installed. The lens hood can be worn backwards, the hood has special grooves that allow it to be screwed in the opposite state into the thread for the light filter. I know of only one Soviet lens that allows you to put on the hood backwards - and that is Jupiter-37A.
Enlightenment of the lens Jupiter-37A 3.5 135
Most likely, Jupiter 37A became a copy Carl Zeiss Jena DDR MC Sonnar 3,5 / 135 (Sonnara / Zonnara). Both lenses are pretty good, but narrowly focused experts say that the Sonnars are nevertheless better assembled and give a slightly sharper image.
Enlightenment of the rear lens of the Jupiter-37A 3.5 135 lens and the view of the aperture blades
Positive aspects and their brief description:
1. Cheap. Of course, in our time it can be obtained at a fairly low price. This is due to its mass production. This allows novice photographer to get a great picture for low cost.
Interchangeable shank and lens Jupiter-37A
2. Normal enlightenment. But even such enlightenment avoids unnecessary glare, Zaitsev. Removes fear of back and side light. But nevertheless, Jupiter-37A is a little afraid of flare and gives a light veil in the generated image.
Hood on Jupiter-37A dressed back to front and in normal position
3. The lens came with a wonderful case with the emblem of the 80s Olympiad. The lens hood and lens hood are conveniently placed in the case. You can see how the lens cases look here и here.
Difference in enlightenment MS and not the MC version of the lens Jupiter-37A 3.5 135
4. Lens hood in delivery. The metal hood is quite long. It sits very well on the lens. But here is one minus of the lens hood that it is metal, it adds extra weight and when screwing the metal into the metal, the lens hood wedges and then it takes a lot of effort to unscrew it back. So I do not advise tightening it up much.
5. With interchangeable shank. I wrote about this at the beginning of the article. Allows you to use photo systems with different working lengths.
6. As many as 12 aperture blades. Therefore, it can act as an excellent portrait lens with smooth circles to blur the background (it has good bokeh).
7. Non-fixed stroke of the iris ring. Let me explain - the ring does not have fixed aperture values of type 4.5, 5.6, 8, but has a continuous stroke ring. This is very useful when shooting video, when you can smoothly close and open the aperture (and not jerkily at fixed values)
8. The large stroke of the diaphragm F3.5-F22. Pretty maneuverable lens. Jupiter-37A has a function of preset diaphragm... To use this function, you need to strangle the aperture ring towards the camera and release it at the desired aperture value. After that, the diaphragm will close only to the specified value. This is quite convenient when working with manual optics - to focus on a fully open aperture, quickly close to the desired value and shoot.
9. Metal case... As they say - give the people bread and circuses, and here - give glass and metal.
10. It works in minus 15 to plus 45 ° C, it is nice to read about it in the instructions before going on a winter photo walk.
Features and their brief descriptions:
- The weight. Over 400 grams, makes you feel all the "power" of the telephoto. But still heavy.
- The location of the diaphragm ring itself is rather inconvenient.
- Close focusing from 1.2 meters, you can forget about macro. The focus ring rotates 270 degrees.
- The thread of the filter is 52 mm, which is a fairly popular diameter.
- The lens has 4 lenses in 3 groups
On the fully open F3.5 aperture, you get slightly soft excellent portraits, but if you close it, then the sharpness is enough with the head for almost all tasks. What does my copy without MS, 1980.
From personal experience using:
I shoot on Jupiter-37A, even when there is very little time to set the sharpness. The picture is excellent. I really like its contrast, although sometimes it seems dull, in the editor it can be made simply incredible. At aperture of 3.5, you can shoot portraits without fear for the soapiness of the glass. Impressions are pretty positive. Here's another interesting comparison of Jupiter-37A and Kaleinar-5N. Jupiter was slightly better.
But if you need to shoot at least slightly moving scenes, then I would prefer any autofocus telephoto, even if it is a zoom and even if it is very dark (does not have enough aperture) and even if from the manufacturer’s know-how, for example, similar to very cheap Quantaray 70-300mm 1: 4-5.6 D LDO MACRO.
Sample photos on crop (APS-C, Nikon DX)
All photos in the gallery below were shot on the APS-C Nikon DX, crop 1.5x. No processing. Reduced size to 2MP, imprinted data from EXIF.
Sample photos on crop (Canon APS-C)
All photos in the gallery below are shot on APS-C Canon 350D, crop 1.6x. No processing. Reduced size to 2MP, imprinted data from EXIF.
Full-frame sample photos (FF, Nikon FX)
All photos in the gallery below are shot on APS Nikon D700 FX Without processing, in JPEG L, VI mode, the size is reduced to 3MP, data from EXIF.
All photos in the gallery below, too, were shot on APS Nikon D700 FX Without processing, in JPEG L, VI mode, the size is reduced to 3 MP, data from EXIF.
UPDATED
Photographer shared examples of photos on Jupiter 37A 3,5 / 135 with readers of Radozhiva Lilia Nemykina:
UPDATE 2
Examples of photos on Jupiter 37A 3,5 / 135 (This one) and the camera Pentax K10D a photographer shared with readers of Radozhiva Yuri Leo.
UPDATE 3
More sample photos on Canon 600D and Jupiter 37A 3,5 / 135 for Radozhiva kindly provided Alexander Frolov.
There are several modifications of JUPITER-37, produced at different times:
- MS Jupiter-37AM 3,5 / 135, 1990-2002 (prefix 'MC' is placed before the lens name)
- Jupiter-37A 3,5 / 135 МС, 1983-1986 (the prefix 'MC' is placed after the lens name)
- MC Jupiter-37A 3,5 / 135, 1986-1989 (prefix 'MC' is placed before the lens name)
- Jupiter-37A MS-N-30 3.5 / 135, 1983-1984, very rare
- Jupiter-37A 3,5 / 135since 1978
- Юпитер-37AМ 3,5/135, 1990-2002
- MC Yu-37A 3,5 / 135, from about 1978
- U-37AM 3,5 / 135 MS
Catalog modern brand lenses 'Zenitar' и 'Helios' can look at this link.
Comments on this post do not require registration. Anyone can leave a comment. Many different photographic equipment can be found on AliExpress.
Hack and predictor Aviator
Jupiter 37A 3,5 / 135 - good lens. The lens has a pleasant background blur and excellent sharpness starting at its widest aperture. Jupiter-37A is one of the best Soviet portrait lensesIt is easy to install on modern DSLR cameras with an interchangeable shank system.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram
Hello. Tell me, please, how to make friends Jupiter 37a and Sony a7 ||? There is an adapter m 42 nex, but it doesn’t work out. Maybe I need some kind of tail. The previous owner beat the adapter to Nikon, which I removed, but attach mine to the lens it still doesn’t work. The connection options have been different. Each seller tries to prove that I really need 42 and I’m not connecting it correctly, but it doesn’t fit anyway. There is a version on the Internet that this lens was issued with a different mount, so so I managed to buy with the fact that from It is different from everyone else. Maybe someone came across this. Tell me at least which particular adapter do I need to look for? Or is my option only to put on Nikon another adapter from Nikon to Sony and will it be good too?
Lens photo
You can't just take and remove the liner from Jupiter-37A in order to put some kind of adapter on it later. The shank should be, and the adapter is already put on it. If Jupiter has a KP-AN shank (for Nikon F mount), you need a Nikon F adapter for it - your mount, if Jupiter has a M42 shank, you need an M42 adapter - your lens.
Check because your photo is not displayed in the message.
Did you hold Yu-37A in your hands, put it on a nikon? A shank with M42 thread is unscrewed, purchased with Avito or somewhere the so-called T2-mount adapter (Chinese version of the Soviet shank KP-A / N) and is screwed on the same three screws. For some reason, this T2 has a small transverse play, with the help of a strip of electrical tape or somehow else it is necessary to align it coaxially. Do you offer an M42-N adapter with a lens?
If this is for me, I have Jupiter, and I use it on both Nikon and Kenon, including with the Chinese T2 adapter. I am not suggesting any lens - where it could be seen at all, and the author of the message is not Nikon, but Sonya.
Ah, sleepyheads. Sorry, I did not read the whole topic.
Lyudmila, I have Sonya. And this lens in my case came immediately with a shank on Nikon. I installed Nikon-Sony through the adapter, everything works.
As Oleg wrote above, most likely you simply do not have a "shank", which is, in principle, strange. Therefore option 2
1- find the shank on the M42 (and use the Nex - m42 adapter)
2- screw the one with which you purchased it and use the Sony-Nikon adapter.
PS Your photo did not load, so it's hard to say more
Reading reviews here a year ago, I doubted whether to take it or not. There are so many categorical conventional wisdom and arguments. But because of the price I still took a try. Moreover, I am not a professional, the most amateur lover. Used on Samsung NX1000 and NX3000 cameras. Compared with the Samsung 50-200mm f / 4-5.6 ED lens.
For a year of use in quality, I have never been disappointed. Photos with him always turned out juicy, as sharp and beautiful as needed. What else does an amateur need? I cannot say otherwise. I even wanted to sell 50-200, since in terms of sharpness it was much behind 37A. The only thing that kept it was that the zoom had good autofocus, and the difference in sharpness was visible at high magnifications.
Here are a few of my photos taken with this lens on various topics. True, they are processed in Photoshop. Perhaps many will find them not of high enough quality, but I am satisfied. I think the same lovers read here as I do. I recommend this wonderful lens to them.
https://yadi.sk/i/m9glhiGvqFsyHw
https://yadi.sk/i/ak03X2v1itJFXA
https://yadi.sk/i/uvC9dSIN9iCkFQ
https://yadi.sk/i/UKafVrNgpgMKGw
https://yadi.sk/i/Ao90FwLII3VDYw
https://yadi.sk/i/0TMBUS0k_BA1fw
Vitaliy. I fully support the joy of Jupiter37. Acquired back in the 80s for film Practice.
But your photos posted on a Yandex drive, most readers of this site will not be able to see without a VPN.
What is a VPN? What have I done wrong? And how to make everyone see it?
I did not find a way to show several photos at once. A comment accepts only one.
Everything is correct in its own way, but the question is that from Ukraine Yandex sites do not open, only if you go in a roundabout way.
probably, it meant that most of the readers live in Ukraine and Yandex is blocked on them.
Many times I came across buying and selling photographic equipment in Russia, when sellers sent reviews to Radozhiva for reading. And nowhere else. Except Yandex Market. I understand that in Russia there is no such forum. There are probably a lot of readers from Russia.
There is really only one authoritative, competent site about photographic equipment for the whole of Russia ... and that Ukrainian one)). I always turn to Radozhiva for help 😀
It's five :)
Already three years ago the same algorithm, first here.
in addition, there are sites of Evtifeev and Vlador
and of course there are many good English-language sites and forums about optics and cameras.
Camera Samsung NX3000, f / 3,5., 1/3 s., ISO-100.
The boy is well processed, but it is dark and on the right side of his face there is a very dark shadow) I comment on this, if you like to pick and process, MB is useful for improvement
Camera Samsung NX1000, f / 3,5., 1/80 s., ISO-200.
It looks good here from afar, but if you zoom in, there is a lot of noise in the shadows, and the guy is out of focus, you can see that they increased the clarity
Camera Samsung NX1000, f / 3,5., 1/100 s., ISO-200.
Samsung NX1000, f / 3,5., 1/100 s., ISO-200.
Samsung NX1000, f / 3,5., 1/160 s., ISO-200.
But this one is very beautiful, it’s a pity that the leaves did not fall completely into the zone of sharpness
Camera Samsung NX3000, f / 3,5., 2,5 s., ISO-3200.
The Orion Belt (top, three blue stars) and the Orion Sword (bottom left) with the Orion Nebula (M42) in the middle of the Sword.
Please tell me, is this lubricant on the diaphragm blades? The lens is for sale almost new and this is on the petals.
Still.
And more
If this is a lubricant, do you need to disassemble and remove it for good? How critical is this moment?
Yes, this is grease. Yes, almost all instances have this. and the helicoid itself may be excessively lubricated, which during heat can lead to grease escaping from behind. in principle, it is advisable to wash the diaphragm, since the evaporating oil gradually settles on the lenses in the form of smaller droplets. but disassembly-assembly requires straight arms.
Oil on the diaphragm and lenses is still not so bad. The thick fraction of the lubricant (namely lithium soap) remained not a helicoid and in the cold it thickens so much that it will not be possible to turn the focus ring. This is exactly what happened at -20, I had to disassemble the lens and clean out all this muck. By the way, it’s very easy to get to the helicoid, after the 3rd time (I didn’t pick up the right lubricant), I disassembled and assembled it with my eyes closed.
I bought such a lens, and it has backlash (5-10 degrees dangles left and right and you can even move your hands a little) when the trunk leaves. Is this the case for all instances or is it necessary to do something with this?
should not. on my strength, there is a movement by a degree. but since the entire lens unit is moving, this will not affect the picture, only it may be difficult to focus in LV, because the picture will “jump”.
I noticed that when you slightly shift it, the backlight disappears :)
It is worth trying to disassemble it to watch yourself It’s just a pity, he’s also a MS, all of a sudden it doesn’t give him even better disclosure
From 5-10 degrees, I probably exaggerated the offset when turning one letter of the marking around the front lens.
it is more likely that the lens block inside is simply disassembled or not fully assembled. because the flare just does not appear.
Kind ! At Olympus OM 10 Mark 3, which
Adapter? If the tail of Jupiter is threaded - adapter M42 - Olympus OM, if the tail is Nikon, then Nikon F - Olympus OM.
Good afternoon! Olympus camera OM-D10 Mark 3, lens Mir 1V 37 mm, Jupiter 37a 135 mm, Helios-44-2 58 mm, Helios-44m-4 58 mm, all have one thread, adapter m42 is needed, and industrial-61l / d?
Barbara, all the lenses you named (with the exception of Industar) come with M42 thread: just buy any more or less decent adapter M42 - M4 / 3 (aka MFT, Micro 4/3)
Industar-61L / D (namely “D”) - it requires an adapter from the M39 threaded connection to the same Micro 4/3 bayonet.
To manually focus, use the Focum Peaking feature of the camera.
Focus Peaking *, I'm sorry.
"Industar-61L / D (namely" D ") - it requires an adapter from the M39 threaded connection to the same Micro 4/3 bayonet." - not just “m39 - MFT”, but with the Leica mark. The working segment is completely different. m39 and there is a mirror.
When you close the aperture, the picture becomes brighter. Apparently because of the luster of the aperture blades. How to deal with these m.
And not vice versa?
For all manual Soviet lenses (I think, not only for them), with a smooth operation of the aperture ring when the aperture ring is open, the picture is bright, when the aperture is closed, it darkens.
And how to deal with this? By the way, a good marker. if the diaphragm is accidentally touched
Hello! Tell me how macro photos were taken on it? In addition to the adapter, do I need to add a macro ring?
Rings are needed. Without them MDF (with my Samsung NX1000) - 98 cm.With a 7 mm ring. - 78 cm. With 14 mm ring. - 66 cm. With 28 mm ring. - 50 cm.With rings 7 + 14 + 28 - 39 cm.
Photo is not attached, error 500
Please try again, there were problems with the site, now they are fixed
Hello.
My experience with this Nikon D7100 cropped camera lens.
1. It is very inconvenient to shoot portraits: for the front one you need to move away 3-5 m, the waist one - 8-10 m, and for the height one - as much as 12-15 m. model.
2. It is heavy. It seems like 400 g is a little bit and I am far from a fragile young lady, but after 20 shots with “aiming” and focusing my hands start to tremble.
3. A lot of marriage with “cut off” elbows, hands, tops, etc. It seems that he went far enough, and he entered the model into the frame, and at the exit - a marriage.
4. Perhaps the consequence of shaking hands, but a lot of "lubrication". And the aperture is closed, on the camera display when shooting clearly, on the PC monitor - soap.
I do not exclude that the lens is beautiful, and all of the above is a consequence of my crooked hands. But I decided for myself: either I will sell, or it will lie until the purchase of a full-frame camera. I will not put it on the crop anymore.
PS Arkady low bow and huge respect for what he does.
For front-bust portraits, that's it (for your money). I shot them on both d5100 and D7100. Yes, not as quickly as on AF, if possible, shoot with 'focus bracketing' (simply moving the body away from the model).
For the absence of blur, the shutter speed should be faster than 1 / EGF, and for multi-pixel cameras, preferably 1.5 times shorter (depending on individual characteristics), that is, for d7100 - 1/250 - 1/320 or shorter.
400 grams is very little, for example yesterday I took it instead of 70-300 / 4.5-5.6 - and the weight and dimensions are incomparable. Especially when you carry this weight all day on your shoulder.
I’m shooting this lens on a crop from a tripod, on a canon with ML support, yes, this is not an operational survey, but it is not intended for this. There are no problems. everything is beautiful and sharp with an open, sobssno, never hole cover on it and I do not cover it. I can also take it off my hands, for which I adjusted the correction in the chip to the most running distance with this shooting. however, there is a piece of paper with which corrections are written for other distances. not promptly, but I can reprogram the chip in the fields.
3 and 4 - purely your jambs, the lens has nothing to do with it.
2 - Go in for sports, seriously. Buy a subscription to the gym or, at least, train in the yard on a horizontal bar and uneven bars. 400g is very little for a lens with such a focal length, modern lenses weigh many times more, even fifty dollars a kilogram, so I consider this a real overkill. Besides, he doesn't need to be easy, because the lighter the weight, the higher the chance of hand shake smudging. For me, for example, it is easier to take a picture without blur with the heavy Tair-11a than with the light and stabilized 55-200.
1 - that's right, it is too narrow on the crop, mainly for facial portraits (not only people). But this is not a drawback, this is a characteristic of the lens. After all, no one scolds the tractor for the fact that it has a maximum speed of only 60 km / h, here it is the same thing. There is a tool for every task.
I fully support.
Points 3 and 4 overlap. Therefore, the most likely blur from the movement of the camera when you press the shutter release. Using short-focus lenses, they might not have noticed this.
Further. The fastest shutter speed for handheld shooting should not be longer than 1 / F * crop factor. 1/135 * 1,5 = 1 / 202,5. We will consider 1/200.
Manual focus on OVI requires careful diopter adjustment for your vision. Focusing on EVI is very problematic without zooming, but then there is a problem with cropping.
So there can be two problems - blur and inaccurate focusing.
I recall that on kenon with ML support, shooting in LV is very convenient. Of course, if your hands do not shake. but with their tremor it will be difficult to shoot at all on any camera.
No exaggeration
LV mode is activated by raising the mirror, and after each frame you need to return to its original position.
Therefore, relative convenience
someone doesn’t understand something. I shoot on my canons in LV with the same convenience as on the BZK, and with the same speed and accuracy of focusing on manual glasses as on the BZK. There is no need to return to some initial position, moreover, the shutter lag is much less, and with proper camera setup, the shutter wear is also less.
The only bad thing is that in the live view the third point of emphasis in the form of the head is lost, and this is minus 2-3 stops for exposure.
Kamerar QV-1 to help.
I periodically shoot them on Canon EOS 300D / 10D / 30D / 400D crops - only the most positive impressions ... I used adapters both with and without a chip ... of course, marriage happens, where can we go without it
and further…
and further…
F / 4
How does the t2 adapter behave? I read different things. Maybe someone has this share information
M-42 and T2 have one diameter, but DIFFERENT thread pitch. This is not the same thing.
On Ali, the adapter has an insert under m42 which is twisted
Without an insert, he has a larger diameter than the original KP-A / N, so you will either have to grind an insert that removes this difference, or select longer fixing screws (native ones are short). I chose the second option, because in my sysadmin jar there were 3 screws of ideal length. And yet such a moment, the screws in the T2-mount are located higher, do not fall into the groove intended for them, and therefore fixing the tail on the lens is less reliable. However, Jupiter is not heavy, for him, the effort with which the screws rest on the lens is quite enough.
If you don’t want to do this sadomaz and buy a normal adapter, I recommend taking the original Soviet production. I took a remake for Tair for 1000r (I regretted 1500 for the original) and regretted it - he sits too tightly on the camera, it is impossible to remove the lens with one hand.
The T2 adapter is used to connect the camera to the telescope.
About inaccurate focusing. I also had this at first on the Samsung NX1000 and NX3000. It's clear on the camera screen, but blurry on the monitor. Sinned on crooked hands. I started shooting from a tripod - the same thing. Began to be disappointed in the lens. Then I remembered the focusing magnifier. When turned on, it immediately became clear that the subject was slightly out of focus. After refocusing, the shots were great.
Manuals cannot be done without a magnifying glass ...
Hello. I bought myself this lens for film, but I also want to put it on a digit (Lumix G2) I would like to clarify how to choose the right adapter.
PS
I, probably, was in a hurry and already ordered from Ali an adapter from M42 to micro 4/3
If you have a threaded tail on the lens, then you ordered it correctly.
Please tell me a working adapter M42 for Canon 80d. It turns out that not every adapter works with my camera. Preferably with the possibility of purchasing in Ukraine.
what does not work mean? how can a simple piece of iron, ugh, brass or brass not work ??
Yes, strange ... maybe the appearance of af was expected?
Perhaps a person just bought an adapter for Nikon, and now he cannot screw it onto Canon ... so he is very unhappy))
Dear Denis, all site readers are indignant with you :-)
It seems to me that you will hardly find a "working" adapter in Ukraine, you only need to look for it in Japan.
That's it, that the camera with this simple piece of iron gives an error. An adapter with the latest generation chip is needed. This is how they explained to me. On Ali there is one, but wait a long time. And in Ukrainian stores, sellers cannot really answer. If someone connected Jupiter to a Canon 80d or another model released after 650d, tell me where you can order a working adapter. The rest are kindly asked to practice their wit in another place, if in fact there is nothing to answer.
Denis does not need to be offended and make people laugh.
Instead of writing nonsense, you'd better spend half an hour of your precious time to open the manual and read how your Canon works in manual mode.
And why do you need an adapter with a chip?
Canon already measures the exposure with all glasses, in A mode, for example, it is very convenient.
And the confirmation of the focus will still lie.
So try the usual $ XNUMX Chinese adapter first.
Then you yourself will decide where to go.
Good luck
focus confirmation can be adjusted, but of course only for one shooting distance. with good light and a working camera, everything is very accurate, in any case, 50 1.4 on an open one gets 8-9 out of 10.
Well, it's not so simple there.
The programmable adapters you are talking about do not support all camera models (especially with the latest leapfrog models)
EMF of the third generation on 5DMkIII works. and on all units too. and on older crops too. everything suits me.
kenon, thank Buddha, shoots even with an empty mount. moreover, with the correct exposure. kenon is generally the most convenient system for manual optics, there is ML to facilitate shooting.
If the chip is incompatible (in reality, it happens), then remove it from the ring - You can roughly grind it off and that's it, you won't be able to pick it off. Everything except the green dot and everything associated with it will work. Sometimes it happens because of bad contact, by the way.
I'm not offended. You just need answers to the point. I know how it works in manual mode. The problem is that the lens error appears with a simple ring. I don’t know what it’s connected with. When connecting the carcass to the telescope, everything worked. With a native lens and tokina, everything is ok too.
and with an empty bayonet everything works fine?
If you want essentially,
Write what kind of error you get.
What mode are you shooting?
I like to work in the world.
Moreover, the portraits have some kind of naturalness, as in life models look, especially on Nikon.
I noticed that on modern lenses (such as 85 1.8), the photos come out slightly unnatural. An excessively blurred background, even for a telephoto lens (on the crop it is 135), a sharp edge of the subject because of this.
With a larger focal length, the lens gives a more correct ratio of objects in the frame, I like it better. He is so portrait and, at the same time, reportage (not in terms of sports).
In good lighting, portraits are sharp. Although the picture and the outline sometimes come out soft, low-contrast, when the contrast is raised programmatically, everything falls into place by itself.
I have a question,
because I am far from a pro and I have difficulties with low light with this lens. I work with a DX (D90) camera, when you shoot a slightly darkened scene and plan it like that, the sharpness is very weak, everything is very good. blurry. Closing the aperture with ISO increase does not help
I do not advise beginners, as they learn with a lens. in my opinion it's hard, at first och a lot of marriage. But the biggest plus is the sharp natural portraits, without the "artistry" of the wayward technique.
It may also be a deliberate fact, but my D90 with all the lenses has a tendency to "fall" into the marsh greens. I tried all the BB settings, this slight effect remains warm. But with Jupiter, the feeling that both the blue and red channels are “tightened up”, or the images from it are easier to edit during post-processing, the color in the end turns out to be natural.
An interesting point, I somehow bought a Chinese nozzle for 700 UAH, they say, a wide-angle, in fact, an analogue of a lens for a phone divisible by 2, macro and wide-angle (if assembled together), and when installed on Jupiter 37A, the minimum focal length was approximately halved, which cannot but rejoice and, unlike the whale 18-55mm, there is no vignette, the quality does not suffer from this, + the ability to shoot macro, I will also check on the macro lens and tell you what focal length is there.
Arkady, changed color and contrast in one of your photos here. Do not count ... How do you? Interested in understanding my own perception, taking into account my monitor (in order to know how and in which directions it is individually different).
My test Canon 550D with lenses Jupiter-37A 3,5 / 135
Here's another .
In fact, there are a lot of those on Avito who copy pieces of reviews into ads without looking.
nikon d200 and jupiter
recently bought the Olympic version for 800 UAH. and the original shank 350 UAH.