A legend of the last century, a popular lens – the Jupiter 37A 3,5/135 . It's called a small telephoto lens or a large portrait lens, which is true. The Jupiter 37-A takes first place in my vote for the best Soviet portrait lens in the 85-135mm range.
Jupiter 37A Lens Overview
The Jupiter-37A has an interchangeable mount , marked with the letter "A" on the lens. This interchangeable mount allows you to change the rear portion of the lens, which attaches it to the camera's bayonet mount. Regarding the interchangeable mount, Russian manufacturers deserve a monument for this ingenious move. This interchangeable mount also allows you to attach this lens to cameras with an M42 thread or an "H" bayonet mount.
Changing the size of the lens Jupiter-37A 3.5 135 when focusing from infinity to MDF
How to use with modern cameras?
'A' lenses with interchangeable mounts, like the lens in this review, are very easy to use on virtually any modern digital camera (both DSLR and mirrorless)—all you need is the right adapter . An interchangeable 'A' mount typically has an outer section for an M42 thread and an H-mount (similar to the Nikon F). For use on modern cameras, the easiest way to use this mount is to add the appropriate adapter from M42 to the desired system or from Nikon F to the desired system.
Jupiter-37A on the ZK
During its widespread use, the version with the MC filter cost twice as much as the standard version, which actually impacted performance. However, the lens without the MC filter works perfectly with the hood attached. The lens hood can be installed backwards; it has special grooves that allow it to be screwed into the filter thread in the reverse direction. I know of only one Soviet lens that allows the hood to be installed backwards—the Jupiter-37A.
Enlightenment of the lens Jupiter-37A 3.5 135
The Jupiter 37A is most likely a copy of the Carl Zeiss Jena DDR MC Sonnar 3,5/135mm (Sonnara/Zonnara). Both lenses are quite good, but specialists say the Sonnar is better built and produces slightly sharper images.
Enlightenment of the rear lens of the Jupiter-37A 3.5 135 lens and the view of the aperture blades
Positive aspects and their brief description:
1. Cheap. Of course, in our time it can be obtained at a fairly low price. This is due to its mass production. This allows novice photographer to get a great picture for low cost.
Interchangeable shank and lens Jupiter-37A
2. Normal enlightenment. But even such enlightenment avoids unnecessary glare, Zaitsev. Removes fear of back and side light. But nevertheless, Jupiter-37A is a little afraid of flare and gives a light veil in the generated image.
Hood on Jupiter-37A dressed back to front and in normal position
3. The lens came with a wonderful case featuring the 80s Olympic emblem. The case conveniently accommodates the lens hood and the lens itself. You can see what the lens cases look like here and here.
The difference in the coating of the MS and non-MS versions of the Jupiter-37A 3.5 135 lens
4. A lens hood is included. The lens hood is metal and quite long. It fits the lens very well. However, one downside is that it's metal; it adds extra weight, and when screwing metal into metal, the hood jams, requiring a lot of effort to unscrew. So, I don't recommend screwing it too tightly.
5. With a replaceable shank . I mentioned this at the beginning of the article. This allows you to use photo systems with different working lengths.
6. As many as 12 aperture blades. Therefore, it can act as an excellent portrait lens with smooth circles to blur the background (it has good bokeh).
7. Non-fixed aperture ring travel . Let me explain: the ring doesn't have fixed aperture values like 4.5, 5.6, or 8, but has a continuous travel ring. This is very useful when shooting video, as you can smoothly close and open the aperture (instead of jerkily opening and closing it at fixed values).
8. A wide aperture range of F3.5-F22. This lens is quite maneuverable. The Jupiter-37A has a preset aperture function . To use this function, push the aperture ring toward the camera and release it at the desired aperture. The aperture will then stop down only to the specified aperture. This is quite convenient when working with manual lenses – you can focus at full aperture, quickly stop down to the desired aperture, and shoot.
9. Metal case . As the saying goes, give the people bread and circuses, so here – give glass and metal.
10. It works in minus 15 to plus 45 ° C, it is nice to read about it in the instructions before going on a winter photo walk.
Features and their brief descriptions:
- The weight. Over 400 grams, makes you feel all the "power" of the telephoto. But still heavy.
- The location of the diaphragm ring itself is rather inconvenient.
- Close focusing from 1.2 meters, you can forget about macro. The focus ring rotates 270 degrees.
- The thread of the filter is 52 mm, which is a fairly popular diameter.
- The lens has 4 lenses in 3 groups
On the fully open F3.5 aperture, you get slightly soft excellent portraits, but if you close it, then the sharpness is enough with the head for almost all tasks. What does my copy without MS, 1980.
From personal experience using:
I shoot with the Jupiter-37A, even when I have very little time to adjust the focus. The images turn out great. I really like its contrast, although it sometimes seems dull, but you can make it incredible in an editor. At f/3.5, you can take portraits without worrying about the lens becoming blurry. My impressions are quite positive. Here's another interesting comparison between the Jupiter-37A and the Kaleinar-5N . The Jupiter turned out slightly better.
But if you need to shoot at least slightly moving scenes, then I would prefer any autofocus telephoto lens, even if it is a zoom and even if it is very dark (does not have sufficient aperture ) and even if it is from a no-name manufacturer, for example, similar to the very cheap Quantaray 70-300mm 1:4-5.6 D LDO MACRO.
Sample photos on crop (APS-C, Nikon DX)
All photos in the gallery below were taken on an APS-C Nikon DX camera, cropped 1.5x. Unprocessed. Resized to 2MP, EXIF data imprinted.
Sample photos on crop (Canon APS-C)
All photos in the gallery below were taken on an APS-C Canon 350D , cropped 1.6x. Unprocessed. Resized to 2MP, EXIF data imprinted.
Full-frame sample photos (FF, Nikon FX)
All photos in the gallery below were taken on a Nikon D700 FX APS-C camera. Unprocessed, in JPEG L, VI mode, resized to 3MP, with EXIF data imprinted.
All photos in the gallery below were also taken on an APS-C Nikon D700 FX. Unprocessed, in JPEG L, VI mode, resized to 3 MP, with EXIF data imprinted.
UPDATED
Photographer Liliya Nemykina shared examples of photographs of Jupiter 37A 3,5/135 with readers of Radozhiva :
UPDATE 2
Photographer Yuri Leo shared examples of photographs taken with the Jupiter 37A 3,5/135 ( this one ) and the Pentax K10D camera with readers of Radozhiva.
UPDATE 3
Alexander Frolov kindly provided more sample photos taken on Canon 600D and Jupiter 37A 3,5/135 for Radozhiva.
There are several modifications of JUPITER-37, produced at different times:
- MS Jupiter-37AM 3,5 / 135, 1990-2002 (prefix 'MC' is placed before the lens name)
- Jupiter-37A 3,5 / 135 МС, 1983-1986 (the prefix 'MC' is placed after the lens name)
- MC Jupiter-37A 3,5 / 135, 1986-1989 (prefix 'MC' is placed before the lens name)
- Jupiter-37A MS-N-30 3.5 / 135, 1983-1984, very rare
- Jupiter-37A 3,5 / 135since 1978
- Юпитер-37AМ 3,5/135, 1990-2002
- MC Yu-37A 3,5 / 135, from about 1978
- U-37AM 3,5 / 135 MS
You can view the catalog of modern lenses of the brands 'Zenitar' and 'Helios' at this link.
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Final World
The Jupiter 37A 3,5/135 is a good lens. It offers a pleasing background blur and excellent sharpness starting from the widest aperture. The Jupiter 37A is one of the best Soviet portrait lenses , and it's easy to mount on modern DSLRs using its interchangeable mount system.
The material was prepared by Arkady Shapoval.
Good afternoon. I am a Nikonovod. Yuzal 37a on crop d5300 is quite excellent glass (with dandelion). After the transition to full frame and the estate of 80-200 2,8, the presence of Jupiter in the arsenal was no longer in demand.
Question-advise portrait 85 or 135 with a good aperture and a sane budget :)
and what does not suit native 85 1.8?
And sobs-but why did Arkady here have reviewed so many things; exhausted a ton of ink and paper?
Take the trouble to study materials on interesting focal points, and there you look, understanding will come.
YONGNUO 100mm 1: 2 (YN100mm F2N). There is a new one with a delivery of about 5000 UAH. And Ali is even cheaper. Wonderful autofocus lens for Nikon.
Any projection projector such as Helios 92 or Cyclops and Jupiter 9 will be a good portrait lens for little money, they are all full frame, and after being converted to Nikon bayonet with infinity, they surpass in their characteristics the native Nikon zoom lenses ...
Good day. With a bunch of the aforementioned jupiter and canon, the d600 removed a rather mobile dog from his hands. Both a photo and a little video, because the race under the MDF did not leave a chance). The picture in both cases is very pleasant and did not cause any complaints.
Tell me, please, with the help of which adapter can I make it non-manual?
thank you
There are no such.
Maybe it means chip-like?
It can only be done on the BZK, for example, using this one.
the adapter is cool, but with it Jupiter will not be completely autofocus, sometimes it will be necessary to twist hands, because Movement of moving parts is small.
Theoretically, the lens unit of Jupiter can be pushed into the body of some unnecessary autofocus lens. If memory serves, somewhere I read about the hybrid of the Yu-37a and the canon fifty dollars.
Arkady, hello. Your link to the comparison of Kaleinar and Jupiter leads to Google Plus, which is already closed to users. Is there a comparison on Radozhiv?
For $ 380, it’s easier to buy a good digital professional TV set ... it’s not worth the trouble. But is it difficult to focus on the focus yourself? ... - I'm in the plan: why autofocus? for fast shooting in a pinch there are whale lenses ...
Where does this price come from? For 130 Baku already with a dandelion.
Sorry, wrong. For forty bucks.
tell me the adapter for fujifilm x-a3 with a Jupiter 37-a lens
Why is there almost no focus with the mirrorless Samsung NX300? I ordered a penny aluminum adapter for Ali under the M42, but even where there seems to be focus, the image is soapy and in a haze, there is no good sharpness
Has this lens been checked somewhere else?
Soapy and in a haze - this is either a dirty lens, especially close to the matrix, wipe it with a LensPen, or disassembled and assembled badly. Unsharp - this is either an adapter, or, again, disassembled or poorly assembled.
Is the shutter speed fast enough? Here it is desirable 1 / EGF, that is 1/200 and shorter. Saba is not.
* stub
And the lens is afraid of backlight, especially the non-MS version, so the lens hood is prescribed
The image is soapy if you just try to focus on the screen, even before shooting. The lenses are perfectly clean, like new. Maybe the Chinese adapter has the wrong working length? But then there would be clarity at least in some range probably. Perhaps they were disassembled, although the marks on the scale coincide. I got from my grandfather, the previous life is not known))
Can you see an example of photos? It's just that it's not very clear from the explanation what you mean by “soap”)
https://ibb.co/n3bPLxf
https://ibb.co/vZ8qsjf
Here it was possible to achieve such sharpness
Exposure Time 1 / 30s
ISO 1600
And where to be sharp?)) By the way, the cherries are quite sharp, probably also the hole is open.
https://ibb.co/xD5mVSM
Well, here are the same parameters on the kit: 1600, 1/30 and the hole is the same 3,5. Sharpness pointed in the center. So I wanted too much from him))
Duc focal here - 19mm.
1/30 handheld for 135mm is a very slow shutter speed if you are not a robot)).
You need at least 1/125.
Have you bought an adapter with a lens? If with a lens, quality (sharpness) falls and not bad!
I know I know! Here at short exposures, the same situation, there is no normal clarity, although the aperture was covered. And the contrast is very weak, it is clear that you can improve in the editor, but ... Or my hands have not yet grown to such glasses, I have to train ...
https://ibb.co/NtK4R1h
https://ibb.co/bRgfmz4
https://ibb.co/5LqCJHY
https://ibb.co/B6Nz6P1
https://ibb.co/3vnDPFn
https://ibb.co/D4vg3nn
backlighting, or what? Blend is obligatory for him, and against the light, no, no ...!
On the second photo there is a focus, on the yellow spots, fine! Comprehend further :)
Everything is normal, there is sharpness, you just shoot such things and with such a view that FIGs will find it. Go out already and take off normal objects while there is a lot of light and the weather is good)).
Sharpness could be better.
On Yu37, a long-known problem when the rear lens when disassembling the wrong side
set. Maybe you have the same case? Try to put it on the reverse side.
Tell me the adapter for Sony @ -300?
The M-42 thread is your mount.
Greetings!
I have long been interested in the question of why it was extremely difficult to get into the sharpness of Kenon 50D with any Soviet lens. At the same time, this process is extremely simple on Kenon 30D and misses just happen, but on 50D it happens that I get to))
Strange, but the versions 37a ms and 37a have a different aperture shape in a minimally open position. In MS, it is more rounded
He is not an analogue! t2 - 3mm larger diameter. And for infinity on nikon, worn to the turner to deepen by more than 0.5mm
Hello colleagues. Explain to me the difference between just an adapter from M42 to Nikon and a replaceable T2-Nikon F adapter shank? Will it allow focus on infinity? Is there also a lens, or what? Lens Jupiter 37A 3,5 / 135. Thanks in advance for your reply.
For Jupiter-37A, not the M42-Nikon adapter, but the KP-A / N shank is tender, it is without a lens and allows you to focus on infinity, it is put on the lens with a small screwdriver and several screws, its replacement is provided for by construction and is a simple action.
Since the Soviet KP-A / N liner is difficult to find, you can use its analogue - T2-Nikon. Everything is the same as in the case of KP-A / N.
If Jupiter-37A has a M42 thread, then there is a KP-A / 42 shank. It is more advisable to change the shank than to look for an additional junction from M42 to Nikon.
But if you still don’t want to bother with the shank, then the usual M42-Nikon adapter will allow you to focus up to about 3 meters. For infinity, you need an M42-Nikon adapter with a lens.
“Everything is the same as in the case of KP-A / N” - not quite. Its landing diameter is much larger, so you have to select or grind long screws on the machine to attach it to the lens. I was lucky, in the jar where I poured extra small parts from the sysadmin times, there were several suitable screws. This was the first thing. Secondly, when fixing T2, the screws do not fall into the groove on the lens, i.e. the holes for them are drilled closer to the bayonet petals, and the fixation turns out to be much less reliable, it is necessary to twist it harder so that the lens does not fall out. For the Ju-37a, it may not be critical, because the lens is not heavy, but for Tair-11a I was scared, and for d200 (I put it on it) too, that's why I bought KP-A / N, it's calmer with him.
And what, do you have infinity with t2?
So I had to grind on a lathe for taira11a, as were the comments above.
Yes, there is infinity with all interchangeable tail lenses, set this T2 to several 37s, 11a and Tair. On the MS-N-30 there was even a small flight.
But is infinity needed on Yu37 at all? (rhetorical question)
need infinity
Or simply screw 1-2 turns of BLUE electrical tape evenly onto the lens tail - it will fit into the Ketai adapter tightly and without backlash.
Correct: with Jupiter 37A not up to 3 meters, but up to 6-7 somewhere.
Arkady. Just once again remind people that an adapter with a lens (as a rule they buy cheap) will nullify the advantages of any glass. I also vote for KP-A / N.
Good day! When I read about the u37a, I came across the phrase that the original KP-A / N can be used as a regular adapter without a lens. Then I did not pay attention, but now the question arose about buying (from hands), and it became sharply relevant. Is this true or am I misunderstanding something? Some kind of thread on the inside is visible in the photographs ...
I asked myself - I answered myself, autonomy is at a height =)
There is no thread there, and nothing is screwed in there, sometimes the shank is just a shank (c) My copy, by the way, does not fly beyond infinity, and at a great distance it does not fully focus, a blinking focus confirmation point and subsequent viewing of pictures on a large the monitor amicably nod in confirmation (shot from a tripod and with a remote release).
I will sort this out…
Hello Arkady. I am a supporter of Soviet optics. Thank you very much for this review on the site. My question is: I used a Canon 550D + Jupiter 37A 3,5 / 135 camera using a programmed adapter. At the moment I have a Canon 6D mark2 camera, can I use the old adapter or do I need another for this camera? Advise which is better.
Thanks in advance for your reply.
Yes, on 6dm2 you can use the same adapter.
Good day. The question is mb who knows. I have 82-year-old jupiter kazan peter-37A 3,5 / 135. They accidentally did not use thorium for enlightenment?
xD No)
ATP) Ato surveyor looked here about the Japanese even forbid)
That the eye will glow at night) Pale)
Thorium was added only to super-fast and so lenses, for example, Takumara 50 / 1.4 of the 2nd, 3rd and 4th versions, Takumar 35/2. In Soviet lenses, they used a maximum of lanthanum, so you will not shine)).
Yes, and you won’t be from thorium unless you swallow it or wear it continuously for 5-10 years with a blue electrical tape wrapped around your body.
The original KP-A / H interchangeable shank is simply inserted into the Nikon camera mount (the letter H indicates that this is an adapter for the Nikon camera with F mount) and locks into place by turning until it clicks. Jupiter-37A can focus with this shank from 1,2 m to infinity. You can also install Lushnikov’s dandelion on the shank to confirm that it is in focus. This will be indicated by light and sound signals in the camera. Here is one example of a photo taken with Nikon D5100 with Jupiter-37A:
To confirm that you are in focus, a dandelion is not needed, this is a standard feature of all Nikons.
In addition to the correct comment above.
A confirmation chip is needed for Canon.
With any glass, Nikon will show the presence of focus in the lower left corner.
The only question is how accurately this function works with a particular lens.
The prompter works quite accurately, you just have to adapt to it, because the most accurate hit may not be when it is stably on, but when it just starts to flash, both when the focus ring rotates from MDF to infinity, and in the opposite direction. In general, you need to try on a specific camera.
It also depends on the lens, on the manual nikon I have the most accurate hit when the point stopped blinking and caught fire exactly (but by this moment it should be brought very carefully), but Jupiter, apparently, is already flashing when it blinks, the camera is the same.
In general, just a couple of weeks ago I came across an article, the author says that many old lenses give an error in confirming autofocus on Nikon. And only in such a way from reasonable it can be minimized. Well, or focal bracketing =)
Thank you, we will experiment.
On Tair 3, by the way, it works very poorly. Rather, there is a specificity, most likely due to a very narrow grip. This refers to cameras of the D800 type, where not only the dot is lit, but also the arrows “outside” the sharpness zone, which light up simultaneously, instead of the confirmation point.
It turns out I misread the comment above. I read the opposite about focusing, that it is necessary to rotate from MDF to infinity, this is due to the fact that on short-focus lenses, the depth of sharp space behind the object is greater than in front of it, and when we “push” the grip onto the object, then in the case of indicator miss, we have much more of this depth in stock than during the reverse movement.
For what I bought, for that I sell)
Here I repeat the question about the chips on Canon.
There is a likelihood that some chips work faster, or it is extremely unlikely.
Thank you.
tests in the store here are very indicative, everything is better there, the same lighting.
Good day, can you sell it in a good standard with an adapter for nikon?
So on your OLX they are full, and the prices are normal.
What about chromatic aberrations compared to Tair 11A?
I would like to hear the opinion of practitioners of this manual optics, which is better in their opinion: Helios 44-2 or Jupiter 37a? The question arose in the light of the proposal of Yu-37a with the existing Helios. Is it worth it to replace, supplement or purchase Yu-37a nothing new? I read the opinion of the author of the blog and take into account the voting results.
It is better to supplement than replace, because from 135 mm 50 will be missing and vice versa. I have Jupiter 37 and Helios 81. I often shoot with Jupiter, but this is subjective, I'm used to it and this focal point, but I also shoot with Helios when 135 mm is too much. They generally differ in design. I can't explain it as a technician, but you can feel it.
PS With Jupiter without the 44th Helios, you will miss not only its focal, but also twisted bokeh.
Thanks for the clarification, I decided to purchase the Yu-37a, I'll try it in practice), I’m sure that such a legendary lens will not work out, it’s not in vain that Arkady’s 1 place in the survey)
Arkady, good afternoon! Thank you for the reviews, you have a very useful resource.
Probably a lot has been said on this topic, but all comments can not be re-read.
Tell me, I have two cameras, one nikon d600, the other fujifilm x-e1. Correctly, I understand that in order to fasten this lens to Nikon, the KP A / N adapter will be enough? But for the Fujik I have an M42-fx adapter, will it be enough, or is there some kind of adapter needed?
Fuji needs Nikon F - Fuji X
Fuji needs an adapter depending on the tail of Jupiter, I guess. If the tail is threaded - M42-fuji, if the tail KP-A / N - nikonf-fuji.
Gentlemen, tell me the solution. Ideally I bought the MC Jupiter-37AM from the side of the rear lens on the helikode thread a lot of grease. The focus ring's movement is taut (can it be developed?). Is it worth to disassemble the lens and remove the old grease - year of issue 1993. grease can get on the sensor of Nikon d7000 camera. Thank you.
Of course it is advisable to remove.
Definitely, it is worth disassembling the helicoid, wash the old grease in gasoline and apply a new one. If the move is tight now, then, most likely, the factory grease has already decomposed into soap and oil. Soap in the cold tan and wedge the helicoid, the oil usually spreads over all the insides. If your lenses are clean (illuminate with a flashlight), then you can not disassemble the lens unit. In the lens block, in general, it’s better not to climb once again, then you are tormented by removing dust particles.
The first impression of shooting portraits in full frame (5D) is that it is softer on FF than on crop. Someone will say that the crop is taken from the center of the lens, and it is sharper. Yes, but it affects the picture as a whole, and if the object is located in the center of the frame, then it is in the center, either on the crop or on the FF. This is what they write - the U-37 is more of a male portrait than a female one due to excessive sharpness, but at first impression it seemed to me that this is more relevant for crop cameras than for FF.
“On FF it is softer than on a crop” - perhaps this is how it seemed to you due to the fact that there is only 5MP at 12d, while on any modern crop it is + -24MP, i.e. four times higher pixel density, and, apparently, the lens copes with them quite well.
May be. Before that I had a crop in general with a 6MP matrix - Nikon D70, maybe all the lenses are razor sharp on it) But specifically between these cameras, the difference in using the same lens is felt, especially when you are not the first day and quite often on you shoot it.
Since the pixel density is the same, then I don’t know what it is. I can neither confirm nor deny, because FF I have only a film).
Tell me what could be the problem - the focusing ring works only in the range 1,2 - 3, then it stops. 270 degrees, as indicated in the overview, does not rotate (maximum rotates 180 degrees). It seems that at mark 3 further physically the stroke of the rear lens is blocked (rests against the very edge of the lens).
When assembling a helicoid, they were in the wrong turn. It is necessary to disassemble and look for the right position. There the helicoid consists of three parts with two types of multi-thread, so you need to be patient).
Here I’m shooting with jupiter and rejoice.
But I decided to compare in different parameters with Nikon's lenses and found that Jupiter (my copy) gives a different angle of view ...
Measured - I got 160 mm on FF ... For comparison, Nikon Kit 18-135 at the long end gives 115 ...
Interestingly, everyone has it, or am I lucky?
focus breathing
And with what measure? You understand that the angle of view of the lens is measured along the diagonal of the frame.
Thank you for the article. And I was going to sell my jupiter.