For the opportunity review lens MS Jupiter-37AM 3,5 / 135 Many thanks to Igor Tihan.
Overview of the MS Jupiter-37AM 3,5 / 135 lens
This review presents a multi-coated version. The 'MC' in the lens name stands for 'МtionСloyal permeation '(often also called МultiproСbranching from an English like 'MC' - Multi Coating).
There are several modifications of JUPITER-37, produced at different times:
- MC Jupiter-37AM 3,5 / 135, 1990-2002 (the prefix 'MC' is placed before the lens name, this lens is shown in this review)
- Jupiter-37A 3,5 / 135 MS, 1983-1986
- MC Jupiter-37A 3,5 / 135, 1986-1989 (prefix 'MC' is placed before the lens name)
- Jupiter-37A MS-N-30 3.5 / 135, 1983-1984
- Jupiter-37A 3,5 / 135since 1978
- Юпитер-37AМ 3,5/135, 1990-2002
Perhaps the weight of different versions is slightly different, you won't feel it to the touch. The letter 'M' most likely stands for 'Upgrade' the lens. If someone has more detailed information on the design difference, add it in the comments.
Therefore, in this review I will not dwell on a detailed description of the lens, but I will focus only on the difference in versions. If you read Jupiter-37A 3,5 / 135 review, you will know everything about MC Jupiter-37AM 3,5 / 135.
View of the MS Jupiter-37AM 135mm F3.5 lens when focusing on infinity
Jupiter-37 is a legendary Soviet lens, super portraiture, easy to use, relatively cheap with excellent image quality. Both versions of 'MC' and 'Not MC' are good.
View of the MS Jupiter-37AM 135mm F3.5 lens focused on MDF
The MS Jupiter-37AM 3,5 / 135 lens is very well made, it is pleasant to work with it.
MS Jupiter-37AM 3,5 / 135
Enlightenment of the front lens MS Jupiter-37AM 3,5 / 135:
Enlightenment of the front lens of the MC Jupiter-37AM 3,5 135 lens
Enlightenment of the rear lens and the look of a chic 12-blade aperture lens:
Enlightenment of the rear lens of the MC Jupiter-37AM 3,5 135 lens and aperture blades
This is what a lens with a native metal hood installed looks like:
MS Jupiter-37AM 3,5 135 lens with a clad native metal hood
At one time, the MS version of the lens cost a lot of money. For example, the version without MS was several times cheaper, you can see for yourself... There is also the 'Olympic' version of the Jupiter-37A lens, it is no different from the usual Jupiter-37A except for the original olympic case and production around 1980. I would not bother looking for either the 'Olympic' or 'MC' versions of the lens, but would take the first successful copy of any of the Jupiter-37A.
Case from MS Jupiter-37AM 3,5 / 135
The difference between MS Jupiter-37AM 3,5 / 135 and Jupiter-37A 3,5 / 135
The MC version is marked in red, white and yellow. In the 'Not MC' version, all markings are in white. This is clearly visible in the photo below. Although there are variants of lenses with slightly different designations than the one shown below:
Two lenses Jupiter-37A 3,5 / 135 and MS Jupiter-37AM 3,5 / 135
The difference is enlightenment. The 'non-MC' version has a lilac (violet-bluish) enlightenment. The 'MC' version has a greenish enlightenment. This is clearly seen in the photo below:
The difference in the enlightenment of the front lens Jupiter-37A 3,5 / 135 and MS Jupiter-37AM 3,5 / 135
Enlightenment of the rear lenses is also very different:
The difference in the enlightenment of the rear lens Jupiter-37A 3,5 / 135 and MS Jupiter-37AM 3,5 / 135
Another difference is that the 'MC version' hood cannot be installed backwards. The non-MC version can be installed backwards, making it easy to carry with you at all times. When back-mounted hood access to the focus ring is not lost, but in this position you cannot put the protective cap on the lens.
Sample photos on MS Jupiter-37AM 3,5 / 135
All photos taken on Nikon D700without processing. How to use interchangeable shank lenses on modern Nikon cameras read here, and on Canon here.
How to use with modern cameras?
'A' lenses with an interchangeable shank, such as the one in this review, are very easy to use on almost any modern digital camera (both DSLR and mirrorless), just select correct adapter. The replacement 'A' shank usually has an external M42 thread and an 'H' mount (similar to Nikon F). For use on modern cameras, the easiest way is to add the required adapter from M42 to the desired system or from Nikon F to the desired system to this shank.
Catalog modern brand lenses 'Zenitar' и 'Helios' can look at this link.
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Conclusions
MS Jupiter-37AM 3,5 / 135 and Jupiter-37A 3,5 / 135 - excellent lenses. Both options are good. I recommend this lens to all interchangeable lens camera owners.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval.
here you go.
from russia language world, is there any more info can be found about the modification from version “A” to “AM”.
the reduced quality of plastic is not the turth, I once disassembled it.
blue/purple coating
one more info to add.
my friend once asked the seller, his copy was uninstalled from a elctric-optical device, as a component, so there is no hood, no cap. I don't know if this is the truth
one more question,
J-37A/AM had relative good performance in wide open, how it compares with Jupiter21M 200/4, which had similar optic scheme.
I have reviewed some some sample photo of J-21M, seems full open si much softer than J-37.
J-37 is a simple but beautiful lens
By Nikon D850
the bokeh from Jupiter-37 is fantastic without a doubt.
the strange thing is there are some spot or “small bubble” in the light flare.
I found this in both of my two copies.
is any one why this comes?
https://radojuva.com/2015/01/neh-and-bokeh/
one of my J-37 copy, has a small and visible bubble(size like dust) in the middle optical glass. which the “bubble/dots” in the flare is more significant.
this photo I took from my better J-37 copy, when I still find this small issue in the bokeh light flare, the first thing I checked is the glass, all the elements are relatively clean, no significant bubble or dust in the glass.
I doubt if it is the issue from the gluewater bwteen two combined glass elements. like those modulated ASP glass has the “Onion ring”, not becasue of the spot dust between those glass elements.
Bubbles in the lenses were acceptable by Soviet factory standards.
haha
hihi
do you know if the Jupiter-37 is a full copy from Zeiss 135/3.5?
read carefully: 6 blades vs 12, 1m. mdf vs 1.2.
No, because J-37A was based on J-11 which was a copy of Sonnar 135/4. So, the development of J-37 and Sonnar 135/3.5 was probably independent and J-37 is not a copy of Sonnar 135/3.5.
6blades vs 12 blades is a good point, that's one of the charming points from J-37.
1m vs 1.2m MDF, I don't know how the optical design can optimize this MDF.
I read some comments on the internet, the j-11 is softer than J-37.
do you know who is the designer of J-37?
I suppose that comparision of J-11 and J-37 are comparisons of the quality of assembling of these lenses, not the quality of optical design. For example: I had J-11 that sharper than J-37A, but also I had J-37A that sharper thanJ-11.
Also I think that the optical design of the J-37A was the result of the work of a team of engineers, not just one person. Although J-11 (Sonnar adaptation for soviet glass) designed andcalculated by Maltsev MD
so who is the sharpest from your best copy? J-11 or J37 ;)
I think J-37 is definitely a successful design or engineering work.
use less optical elements to achieve such performance, even in nowadays and modern 47M DSLR, it still can be used in full open way.
and the funny thing I found, with J-37 to close some aperture, it doesn't improve the image quality too much, expct the depth field.
Nonsense question. The best lens is the lens that you have.
Not J-37 was a successful design, but Bertele's Sonnar variations are succesful optical design. And not only Jupiter lenses use with type of optical construction, but also Nikkor P 105/2.5 pre ai, some of old west german 135/2.8 lenses and others.
on a 47M pixel full format DSLR, the lens perform well in center, but require a quote high shutter speed.
in the sunshine ,it's easy to focus manually.
Jupiter 37 a
Can someone tell me the dimensions of the original Jupiter 37A 3,5\135mm lens hood??? I lost it, it's very tight without it