Legend of the last century, the national lens - Jupiter 37A 3,5 / 135. He is called a small telephoto or a large portraiture, which is true. Jupiter 37-A takes first place in my vote on the best Soviet portrait lens in the range of 85-135mm.
Jupiter 37A Lens Overview
Jupiter-37A has interchangeable shank, which is marked on the lens with the letter "A". Replaceable shank allows you to change the "rear" part of the lens, which attaches it to the camera mount. Regarding the replaceable shank, it is necessary to erect a monument to domestic manufacturers for this ingenious move. With the help of an interchangeable shank, this lens can also be attached to cameras under the M42 thread or "H" mount.
Changing the size of the lens Jupiter-37A 3.5 135 when focusing from infinity to MDF
How to use with modern cameras?
'A' lenses with an interchangeable shank, such as the one in this review, are very easy to use on almost any modern digital camera (both DSLR and mirrorless), just select correct adapter. The replacement 'A' shank usually has an external M42 thread and an 'H' mount (similar to Nikon F). For use on modern cameras, the easiest way is to add the required adapter from M42 to the desired system or from Nikon F to the desired system to this shank.
Jupiter-37A on the ZK
In times of mass use, version with MS was twice as expensive as usual, which actually affects the quality of work. Nevertheless, a lens without an MC feels great with the hood installed. The lens hood can be worn backwards, the hood has special grooves that allow it to be screwed in the opposite state into the thread for the light filter. I know of only one Soviet lens that allows you to put on the hood backwards - and that is Jupiter-37A.
Enlightenment of the lens Jupiter-37A 3.5 135
Most likely, Jupiter 37A became a copy Carl Zeiss Jena DDR MC Sonnar 3,5 / 135 (Sonnara / Zonnara). Both lenses are pretty good, but narrowly focused experts say that the Sonnars are nevertheless better assembled and give a slightly sharper image.
Enlightenment of the rear lens of the Jupiter-37A 3.5 135 lens and the view of the aperture blades
Positive aspects and their brief description:
1. Cheap. Of course, in our time it can be obtained at a fairly low price. This is due to its mass production. This allows novice photographer to get a great picture for low cost.
Interchangeable shank and lens Jupiter-37A
2. Normal enlightenment. But even such enlightenment avoids unnecessary glare, Zaitsev. Removes fear of back and side light. But nevertheless, Jupiter-37A is a little afraid of flare and gives a light veil in the generated image.
Hood on Jupiter-37A dressed back to front and in normal position
3. The lens came with a wonderful case with the emblem of the 80s Olympiad. The lens hood and lens hood are conveniently placed in the case. You can see how the lens cases look here и here.
Difference in enlightenment MS and not the MC version of the lens Jupiter-37A 3.5 135
4. Lens hood in delivery. The metal hood is quite long. It sits very well on the lens. But here is one minus of the lens hood that it is metal, it adds extra weight and when screwing the metal into the metal, the lens hood wedges and then it takes a lot of effort to unscrew it back. So I do not advise tightening it up much.
5. With interchangeable shank. I wrote about this at the beginning of the article. Allows you to use photo systems with different working lengths.
6. As many as 12 aperture blades. Therefore, it can act as an excellent portrait lens with smooth circles to blur the background (it has good bokeh).
7. Non-fixed stroke of the iris ring. Let me explain - the ring does not have fixed aperture values of type 4.5, 5.6, 8, but has a continuous stroke ring. This is very useful when shooting video, when you can smoothly close and open the aperture (and not jerkily at fixed values)
8. The large stroke of the diaphragm F3.5-F22. Pretty maneuverable lens. Jupiter-37A has a function of preset diaphragm... To use this function, you need to strangle the aperture ring towards the camera and release it at the desired aperture value. After that, the diaphragm will close only to the specified value. This is quite convenient when working with manual optics - to focus on a fully open aperture, quickly close to the desired value and shoot.
9. Metal case... As they say - give the people bread and circuses, and here - give glass and metal.
10. It works in minus 15 to plus 45 ° C, it is nice to read about it in the instructions before going on a winter photo walk.
Features and their brief descriptions:
- The weight. Over 400 grams, makes you feel all the "power" of the telephoto. But still heavy.
- The location of the diaphragm ring itself is rather inconvenient.
- Close focusing from 1.2 meters, you can forget about macro. The focus ring rotates 270 degrees.
- The thread of the filter is 52 mm, which is a fairly popular diameter.
- The lens has 4 lenses in 3 groups
On the fully open F3.5 aperture, you get slightly soft excellent portraits, but if you close it, then the sharpness is enough with the head for almost all tasks. What does my copy without MS, 1980.
From personal experience using:
I shoot on Jupiter-37A, even when there is very little time to set the sharpness. The picture is excellent. I really like its contrast, although sometimes it seems dull, in the editor it can be made simply incredible. At aperture of 3.5, you can shoot portraits without fear for the soapiness of the glass. Impressions are pretty positive. Here's another interesting comparison of Jupiter-37A and Kaleinar-5N. Jupiter was slightly better.
But if you need to shoot at least slightly moving scenes, then I would prefer any autofocus telephoto, even if it is a zoom and even if it is very dark (does not have enough aperture) and even if from the manufacturer’s know-how, for example, similar to very cheap Quantaray 70-300mm 1: 4-5.6 D LDO MACRO.
Sample photos on crop (APS-C, Nikon DX)
All photos in the gallery below were shot on the APS-C Nikon DX, crop 1.5x. No processing. Reduced size to 2MP, imprinted data from EXIF.
Sample photos on crop (Canon APS-C)
All photos in the gallery below are shot on APS-C Canon 350D, crop 1.6x. No processing. Reduced size to 2MP, imprinted data from EXIF.
Full-frame sample photos (FF, Nikon FX)
All photos in the gallery below are shot on APS Nikon D700 FX Without processing, in JPEG L, VI mode, the size is reduced to 3MP, data from EXIF.
All photos in the gallery below, too, were shot on APS Nikon D700 FX Without processing, in JPEG L, VI mode, the size is reduced to 3 MP, data from EXIF.
UPDATED
Photographer shared examples of photos on Jupiter 37A 3,5 / 135 with readers of Radozhiva Lilia Nemykina:
UPDATE 2
Examples of photos on Jupiter 37A 3,5 / 135 (This one) and the camera Pentax K10D a photographer shared with readers of Radozhiva Yuri Leo.
UPDATE 3
More sample photos on Canon 600D and Jupiter 37A 3,5 / 135 for Radozhiva kindly provided Alexander Frolov.
There are several modifications of JUPITER-37, produced at different times:
- MS Jupiter-37AM 3,5 / 135, 1990-2002 (prefix 'MC' is placed before the lens name)
- Jupiter-37A 3,5 / 135 МС, 1983-1986 (the prefix 'MC' is placed after the lens name)
- MC Jupiter-37A 3,5 / 135, 1986-1989 (prefix 'MC' is placed before the lens name)
- Jupiter-37A MS-N-30 3.5 / 135, 1983-1984, very rare
- Jupiter-37A 3,5 / 135since 1978
- Юпитер-37AМ 3,5/135, 1990-2002
- MC Yu-37A 3,5 / 135, from about 1978
- U-37AM 3,5 / 135 MS
Catalog modern brand lenses 'Zenitar' и 'Helios' can look at this link.
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Hack and predictor Aviator
Jupiter 37A 3,5 / 135 - good lens. The lens has a pleasant background blur and excellent sharpness starting at its widest aperture. Jupiter-37A is one of the best Soviet portrait lensesIt is easy to install on modern DSLR cameras with an interchangeable shank system.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram
Hello, please tell me where can I buy such a lens?
In the upper left menu of the site there is a section “manual optics”, there you will find contacts.
Thank you very much for the review of the lens and feedback, I ordered it from Lviv for Sonya A-300 and Jupiter-21m to catch up. we will look at what pictures will be obtained….
Good luck to everyone
Please tell me how the exposure metering at Kiev-19 will take place if this lens does not have a jumping aperture?
I rarely encounter film cameras. Most likely just by the current aperture value
It's just that Kiev-19 has all the lenses with a jumper, so I think ...
I purchased this lens for my zenith. Portraits are simply amazing.
Thanks to the author for the review, he still influenced my choice :)
PS, I bought a lens on aukro, there are quite a few options there.
Today I got such a lens in excellent condition with a lens hood in a set ready to sell. tm 0958307818 I live in the Crimea. 24. 12 11 I will be in Kiev.
It is believed that just versions without MS are better, especially the production of the late 70s-the very beginning of the 80s, when there was a special quality control for the Olympics-80. Sharpness and color rendition are really on top.
The review is excellent, I thought about buying ... After reading the comments, doubts arise, which one is better - MS or ordinary? Arkady, which one would you choose?
Thanks. Today I wrote about the possibility of pre-setting the diaphragm. I have a lens without MS, but from the 80th Olympiad, then even non-MS versions were made very high quality. I advise you to take what you find, usually MS is more expensive.
The fact of the matter is that I found several options. The first one with Olympic symbols is not enlightened (used, with scuffs), the second MC (without Olympic symbols, was used, with scuffs) and the third one - without the MC and Olympic symbols, but has never been used and in perfect condition ... So I stand at a crossroads: )
If there is money, I would take the MS version, otherwise without MS with Olympic symbols, but always with a blend.
Thank you for your prompt reply, I will choose from these two. The difference in price is 200 hryvnia.
Hello! I have Jupiter 37a on Nikon D90. Tell me, what can I do to make an external flash work with this lens? With the built-in, everything is fine. Thanks.
Set the flash mode to flash. It all depends on the flash model.
Of course, I tried to set the flash in manual mode. Did not help. Nissin Di622 MarkII. Probably with a flash from Nikon everything would be fine.
Please tell me - does it fit well on Nikon D3100 ??? If yes, then is there any point in taking it for shooting parties, etc. and what is needed for this ?????
The Jupiter-37A lens is quite normal with a KP-A \ N shank suitable for the D3100. For parties is poorly suited. For shooting parties, you need a shorter focus aperture lens such as Nikon 35mm F1.8 or Nikon 50mm F1.4 G AF-S
Thank you Arkady Shapoval !!! And for daytime filming in different weather and in different places ???
It will do. Just keep in mind that this is a telephoto lens without zoom, it imposes its inconvenience.
No zoom ???? I somehow missed this fact (((((((((((((
I ordered myself the Olympic version, I'm waiting for the package :)
And I’ll probably still decide for my Nikon D3100 with a 6 Nikon 55-200mm f / 4-5.6G AF-S DX VR IF-ED Zoom-Nikkor lens! Will someone convince ??? Or vice versa ???
A good choice
Worth taking ???
Watching for what purpose. But in general, the price of the quality of the lens is normal.
If there is a bit more money, take the Nikkor DX 55-300mm f / 4.5-5.6G ED VR AF-S
For a long time I decided on a budget telephoto, and personally I took 70-300VR, I do not regret a drop, much better than 55-200 and 55-300 :)
Well, of course)))) This option is perhaps the best, but also the most expensive. Well this on the crop he becomes 105-450 mm? !!!
55-300 will give almost the same 83-450mm on the crop.
well, but what if there is not enough money ??? What is 55-200 so bad ???
For me personally, it is quite normal, but if you seriously find fault, then - http://www.youtube.com/user/Lilkiwiguy87?feature=watch#p/search/0/a-Bd0Q8l7pI
Sorry of course, but I really didn’t see anything bad there!
If you look carefully and to the end, you can see that the 55-200 lens has a working aperture of F8.0 and is only 105mm, on the other focal and apertures on the crop the lens does not give a normal picture due to high diffraction or XA. But in general, the objective gives a normal (not super-cool) picture)
accordingly, at 55-300, even at full zoom, the picture comes out much more beautifully ???????
Why is this?
Sogalsen. I have pictures at 300mm of both glasses and 55-300 on the long end wins in clarity. I first bought 55-300, then I sold it and bought 70-300 used units, having read ... all kinds of things :)))) And then I looked at the pictures at 300mm: (((((Mother-dear ... ... Sold 70 -300mm and bought 55-300mm again :))) I sit and rejoice. Although on FR up to 150mm, 70-300 is quite super-duper. It all depends on the purpose
Well, I'm just a beginner! Therefore, I apologize in advance for annoying !!! But on other sites everyone writes that 55-300 is completely and in all respects better! And it removes more beautiful! I’ve already got confused ((((((((((( ((((((((((((((((((((((I don’t know how to decide !!! HELP PLEASE !!!!!!!!!!!!!
A person takes pictures))) I think no one will tell you exactly what will suit more. 55-300 is more compact, has good sharpness, cheaper. 70-300 will go to full frame, very fast focus, there is practically no vignette on the crop.
Well, I like to take pictures of nature and everything connected with it! Birthdays, holidays! Often you need a good zoom, but of course so as not to blur on the zoom, like on a whale lens! At night I have to take pictures, but not so often! I like to take pictures of children! Yes, and then there’s no time to bring them later in Photoshop !!! Somehow, based on these requests, what do you recommend ???
Personally, I would take 18-200 for these purposes, since 55-300 and 70-300 are simply trimmed to a wide angle.
But again the difference is huge in money! The last question and I don't bother to bother you anymore - for the same purposes 55-200 or 55-300 ??? Because they seem to only suit me in terms of "price-quality" !!!
55-300 would be a great option)
THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Arkady, can I ask for advice?
The first SLR I took the d90 carcass + fix Nikon 50mm f1.8d (to figure it out first, and then splurge on lenses + numerous tips that this fix is useful to almost everyone)
A week later, Jupiter dug out 37a. As I understand it, theoretically it replaces 50mm, the difference is only in the manual focus. If you keep the autofocus considerations, is it worth saving both of these lenses or can you give 50mm?
And # 2 - which wider lens for landscapes and architecture should you take? Another 1-2 fixes or zoom (like 55-200 / 55-300 as discussed above)? Fixes, as I understand it, will have a much better picture quality for comparable money, only you will have to walk with your feet)
135mm does not replace 50mm, just like aperture 3.5 does not replace your aperture 1.8. It is worth saving both lenses. Personally, I have both of them.
Item 2 - 55-200 and 55-300 are not wide-angle lenses, or the question is not asked correctly. In any case, I would recommend 55-300, you already have two fixes.
Thank you for your prompt response.
Yes, I asked the question incorrectly. Just stupidly a couple of hours ago, I still did not know that the smaller the focus, the wider the angle ... somehow I thought that the shorter the lens, the shorter shooting distances it would do.
The correct question sounds like this - what lens would you recommend for landscape and architecture, with a wider angle of view than 50mm, but not distorting the proportions too much? 35mm? 20? or something in between?
Is it true that now 35mm = the “classic” 50mm lens on a full frame camera?
about 55-300 it is clear, but I’m not going to hunt bunnies / squirrels for now)
We all once did not know something. CROPE angle of view for a 35mm lens = angle of a “classic” 50mm lens on a full-frame camera. More details in the article about Crop Factor. For the landscape on the crop, I would take from 10 to 35mm. Lenses in this range are quite expensive. If there is no money, then the 18-55 whale lens can do the job.
Thank you
as I see that the main topic about Yu 37A in the end got a little lost ... (for which many thanks, I also have such a piece of glass, but so far I have not quite figured it out ... I think I will ask more questions on this topic =) ..
and now I want to ask your advice ... not long ago I bought a nikon d90 with 50mm 1/4 D, but in addition I want to take something wider and more versatile for reporting, weddings, etc. .. I looked closely at the Tamron SP AF28-75mm F / 2.8 since there is not a lot of money and I want more aperture ... what do you say about this .. ???
Thank you very much!
I would take it Tamron 17-50since the wide angle is very important. Previously, he himself chose between these two and realized that there is still a lot of time before the FF, and the wide angle is simply irreplaceable for me.