According provided by lens Jupiter-11A 4/135 many thanks to Vitaly Semenyuk.
Overview of Jupiter-11A 4/135
There are many modifications of the Jupiter-11 lens:
- ZK 1: 4 F = 13.5cm P (1948), rangefinder version, M39 mounting thread, the so-called 'Zonnar Krasnogorskiy'
- Jupiter-11-1 4/135
- Jupiter-11A 4/135 black, with interchangeable shank, presented in this review
- Jupiter-11 4/135 white, with a landing thread M39 for SLR cameras
- JUPITER-11 4/135 AUTOMATIC, with a specific mount for the Kiev-10 and Kiev-15 cameras
- Jupiter-11 4/135 for 'Start' cameras with its own specific bayonet mount
- Jupiter-11 1: 4 f = 13,5cm P white, with M39 thread, for SLR cameras
- Jupiter-11 4/135 white, with M39 mounting thread, for rangefinder cameras of the 'Zorky' brand
- JUPITER-11 1: 4 F = 13,5cm P with Contax-Kiev RF bayonet for rangefinder cameras 'Kiev' manufactured by KOMZ
- JUPITER-11 1: 4 F = 13,5cm P with Contax-Kiev RF bayonet for rangefinder cameras 'Kiev' manufactured by KMZ
- JUPITER-11 4/135 with Contax-Kiev RF bayonet for rangefinder cameras 'Kiev' manufactured by KOMZ
I haven’t come across variants of the lens with the name spelled in the Latin alphabet 'Jupiter-11', but they say that there were also export Jupiter-11. The most interesting option is Jupiter-11Apresented in this review - it has a replaceable shank and is the easiest to install on any modern SLR camera. Different lens options differ in body frame, MDF, aperture method and flange distance. Jupiter-11 has not been updated to the multi-coated version and has the usual single-layer coating. And here is his 'older' brother, Jupiter-37A 3,5 / 135 can be found in multi-enlightened version.
How to use with modern cameras?
'A' lenses with an interchangeable shank, such as the one in this review, are very easy to use on almost any modern digital camera (both DSLR and mirrorless), just select correct adapter. The replacement 'A' shank usually has an external M42 thread and an 'H' mount (similar to Nikon F). For use on modern cameras, the easiest way is to add the required adapter from M42 to the desired system or from Nikon F to the desired system to this shank.
Enlightenment of the front and rear lenses of Jupiter-11A 4/135, view of the aperture blades
The lens has a metal focus ring that rotates approximately 270 degrees. The minimum focusing distance is only 1 meter, in contrast to 1.2 m Jupiter-37A. When focusing, the front lens does not rotate, and the trunk lengthens noticeably. For focusing, a conventional linear lens block movement scheme is used. On the body there is a focus distance scale and a depth of field scale for F4, 8, 16 and 22. There is an infrared shift mark.
A distinctive feature of the lens is 12 blade aperturewhich creates almost even 'circles' in the out-of-focus area. The diaphragm can be adjust smoothlywithout stopping at fixed values. Sorry, but the aperture blades have metallic reflectionthat only creates unnecessary reflections in the middle of the lens. To control the diaphragm near the front lens of the lens there is a special ring. Few people know, but using the aperture control ring aperture preset can also be performed. To preset the aperture, you need to move the aperture to the F / 22 position, then press the aperture ring toward the bayonet, rotate to the desired value and release. After this manipulation, the aperture will operate in the range from F / 4 to the set value. This is a very nice and useful feature for quickly sharpening at the maximum open position, and then shooting at the desired value for the photographer F. The exact same mechanism is also available Jupiter-37A.
Jupiter-11A 4/135 with an installed hood when focusing on MDF
The copy that I visited has a serial number No. 741021 (judging by the number and logo, it was made at the Kazan Optical and Mechanical Plant), its case is badly worn, but the paint did not begin to peel off. The entire lens is made of metal and glass, the assembly at a very high level is an honor and praise to former standards. On the lens case is the inscription 'Made in USSR'. Jupiter-11A may suffer from an excess of oil on the blades of the diaphragm - oil may enter the inner surfaces of the lenses.
The lens came to me for a review in black native case along with wonderful metal hood. The lens hood is screwed into the thread under the filter (diameter 52mm) It is very rare that the hood can be screwed back and forth, however, at the same time, access to the focus and aperture ring rings is completely lost.
Jupiter-11A F4 135mm and Jupiter-37A F3,5 135mm are almost the same size
Now Jupiter-11A is sold a little cheaper than Jupiter-37A. The difference in aperture ratio between F / 3.5 and F / 4.0 is only a third of a stop, so Jupiter-11A can be a normal replacement for Jupiter-37A, but I still advise you to spend a little more money and get MS version of Jupiter-37A. I recommend a small note by Dmitry Evtifeev about Jupiter 37A 135 / 3,5 vs Jupiter 11A 135/4.
Jupiter-11A 4 135 on the ZK
On cropped cameras Nikon DX EGF lens will be almost 203mm, which may seem to many users too long and not a practical focal length. I really liked the lens for its small size, but it's still 135 mm focal length!
The parameters shown in the photo gallery:
Everything is filmed on Nikon D700. On-camera JPEG L ('optimal quality' compression), no processing. Functions: vignetting control, ADL, noise reduction at long exposures, noise reduction at high ISOs were turned off. All shot in Picture Control mode SD (standard mode): contrast correction - 0, brightness - 0, saturation - 0, hue - 0, sharpness - position 5 out of 10. Used white balance: 'Auto'. The size of the photos was reduced to 3 MP.
More sample photos on Canon EOS 600D (with processing) and this lens for Radozhiva was kindly provided by Alexander Frolov.
Sample photos on Nikon D40.
Jpeg source photos view and / or download from this link (80+ photos, Google Drive gallery).
Enlightenment of the lenses Jupiter-11A and Jupiter-37A
Results
Jupiter-11A 135/4 can serve as a lens for creativity. Has a rather weak fix aperture... There are many inexpensive Japanese lenses of the 135 / 2.8 class that are faster than this Jupiter, and because of this they are more preferable. The lens itself is well made, but optically not quite perfect due to poor backlight performance and chromatic aberration. Also, the lens has a yellow-greenish Soviet 'bottle' color rendition, which is typical for many old lenses with single-layer coating. In general, the lens is a lot like its older brother - Jupiter-37A 3.5 / 135... It is considered that Jupiter-11 is one of the the best soviet portrait lenses.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram
Excellent glass, I have exactly the same as in the review. In contrast, it is even better than 37A - it is not so afraid of backlight. Recently I changed his shank to Nikon's and sometimes I dabble in the D90. And about the Japanese 135 / 2,8 - nominally yes, the aperture is higher. But out of four such lenses that I saw, only one (Minolta MC Tele-Rokkor PF 135 / 2.8) was acceptably sharp open, the rest had a maximum working aperture of just 4.
This lens also has a wonderful lens hood, which is worth a few words to say separately.
1. It can be wound onto the lens with the back side. But it’s better not to do this, because if it sticks, then it is twisted together with the front lens block, which there is absolutely nothing to grab to twist the hood.
2. The hood is collapsible, the glass is removed and a 52/52 mm reverse ring remains, which allows you to assemble a macro lens from this Jupiter and any Helios-44m- ...
3. At a crop of 1,5 and more, this hood works perfectly on the same Helios-44M-… (FR 58 mm) without noticeable vignetting. I tried it on Helios-81N (50 mm) - the vignette is also not visible.
As for the Japanese, I agree, even though it seems better in terms of aperture ratio, but according to Jupiter's drawing, I still like the zonar and its boke more than the various other schemes.
In terms of sharpness, Zuiko also has good lenses, almost all fixes on the open are sharp.
1. This is indicated in the review, and I do not know how to screw it into the lens in order to later unwind the lens with it. Most likely, this legend just roams the Internet.
2. The lens hood that I had in the review is not understood, or for this it is worth making inhuman efforts.
3. Any hood from 135-ton will serve on a crop and a hood for fifty dollars, from the same Jupiter-37A I use it on the G-81N.
I had this at 37A, I twisted it a little harder than necessary and it was really shot only with the front lens unit. And the Zonnars have a large gluing behind the front meniscus - the largest of those that I have ever seen.
After that, the lens turned into a telephoto monocle. We'll have to look for an enlightened version, or even spit and buy a native 135/2.
U11 135/4 - there is a grenade somewhere, with a white body, converted from an old rangefinder, as I understand it, without even a distance scale. In principle, as for its focal point, a smaller and lighter 37th with a slight difference in aperture ratio (it is even less than 37A, there is a rare 40.5 mm filter - just a little more than the lens diameter, 11A seems to be under the 49th filter). Nothing like that, although it is not very convenient to focus on focus. Thanks for reminding me, I'll have to take it for the weekend.
Roman, the Yu-11A has the same 52 mm filter as the Yu-37A and G-44M- ...
Roman, as I understand it, you didn’t fix your lens? I was helped by the liquid WD-40, it is sold on the domestic markets.
Yes, and she was smeared, in principle, moved away. But the picture did not suit me after assembly, it was not very good even before - I decided to try the monocle with the thought “I need to buy the MC version”. And then it was somehow forgotten.
1. No, this is a real case from my practice. As you can see from the comments below, I'm not the only one so clever :)
2. Yes, it twisted well, I tore the glass off the base just as I tried to remove the jammed hood.
3. But not for any fifty dollars. For example, on the MD 50 / 1.7 minolt, the vignette was already visible on the open, apparently, precisely because of the larger relative aperture.
and I bought a 52 mm “rubber plunger” from China, and it’s convenient for both fifty dollars and a jup. At the same time, and a good "buffer against accidental encounters with hard objects."
A! So this is you heading photo \ video on gagatget)))
If this is a question for me, then no.
Question to Oleg Muravitsky. But I already realized that we are just hanging out on the expanses of one resource
Yes yes :)
I used to talk with one old-fashioned photographer, so he praised and recommended Jupiter 11 very much, I asked him: what about Jupiter 37? He told me that the 11th is better, I don’t know the truth why, but this preference surprised me.
There are many subjective factors. Those who did not have money for the MC Ju-37A, of course, will promote the Ju-11. On business, I shot during the day in a room full of lamps. In order to avoid blur, I used 1 / 160s, which probably guarantees a sharp picture. At the same time ISO was about 1000. If it were Jupiter-37A, then ISO would be already about 640 units due to F / 3.5. For a full frame, the difference is imperceptible, but for a crop it is already heaven and earth.
I had both of them, I had the opportunity to compare. I liked 37A more in terms of drawing and sharpness, I regret that I sold it. 11A is not as sharp, but produces a much sharper picture. Although this is not essential - contrast can always be added in the editor.
Venus is beautiful, Jupiter is good, Arkady is great!
"But yesl 'older' brother" probably you meant "him"
Fixed
Watches, these have already become native :), I especially liked Venus with a watch.
Now it is possible for 300g. Jupiter-37A is probably worth buying and saving and buying Jupiter-11A only at a bargain price. Although he gives an excellent picture in the hands of Arkady. Thanks for the review, as always on top.
The price is highly dependent on the condition. On the same Aukro for 300 UAH. offer only obviously tortured copies that you don't want to mess with. I bought "Jupiter 37A" in perfect condition for 420 UAH. It is pleasant to take it in hand, although, of course, this is not the main thing.
Fibonacci chandelier is also very good.
I just had a hood mounted on the Yu37A, I tried to unscrew and unscrew the lens floor) I screwed it back and I'm not trying anymore.
And I constantly take off my clothes and put on a hood on the Yu-37A for a couple of years, everything is fine. Probably depends on many factors.
I agree, I have a plastic lens hood.
Your “5 kopecks” ... Try to lubricate the thread of the hood with WD-40 liquid (you will find it in a car shop). Just on vatochku-and on the thread ... Stop jamming.
I’m carrying my hood from Jupiter 37, I carry it both on the G-81n, and on the Nikon 50 f / 1.8D, and of course on Jupiter 37. So, if you take half a second of attention when screwing the hood, it will twist and screw without effort , no fanaticism, enough accuracy.
Cheap "unnamed" (like Revuenon, etc.) Japanese 135 / 2.8 at f / 2.8 aperture, if they are working, it is very conditional, in reality they can only be used from f / 4.
Another thing is that idiotic patriots contributed to such an increase in the price of MS Jupiter-37A that it becomes profitable to buy instead of it Super-Multi-Coated Takumar 135 / 3.5 or something like RMC Tokina 135 / 2.8, Tamron (-F or Adaptall) 135 / 2.8 BBAR MC etc.
The hood on the 37th can be easily unscrewed. Simply by squeezing with your fingers, the plastic deforms - that's why it goes tight, I unscrew mine gently holding directly to the thread + a little of the same WD-40, and that's it =)
Good afternoon. Repeatedly in your reviews I come across a mention of the infrared shift mark. Can you tell me what it is for?
For shooting in the infrared spectrum. Infrared rays have a different refractive index and after focusing on the “visible” spectrum, you should make adjustments according to the mark.
Arkady, do you want to write an article for the “teapots” about the fraservon zyomka?
It’s necessary for all, as more beautiful than a photo camera, ob'єktivi, svitlofіltri,…. vikoristovuvati?
I want, I have a lack of time.
I have a Yu-11 Automaton from Kiev-15, I am pleased with it, it’s very open even on an open hole, and it’s not bad to color as well, I like something more than Yu-37, maybe because the glass is from arsinal.
Photographs with hours and two houses of cats were dude)
about this watch)))
Tell me
and you use a focusing screen
with manual optics or not?
If not, what percentage of marriage do you get?
You know, a focusing screen as a bee is present in every SLR camera, so it would be strange if it were not used. )))
Did you mean the focusing screen with the Doden wedges?
I beg your pardon - I meant himself - with wedges or others.
"Jupiter-11 4/135 Automatic, with Contax-Kiev mount for Kiev-10 and Kiev-15 cameras"
The Contax mount was on the Kiev-2, -3, -4 rangefinders and Jupiter-11 was also produced for them. Kiev-10, -15 SLR devices with their own mount.
It would be correct to write:
Jupiter-11 4/135 Automatic, for the Kiev-10 and Kiev-15 SLR cameras
-Jupiter-11 4/135, with a Contax-Kiev mount for rangefinder cameras Kiev-2, -3, -4.
Fixed
Still interesting
Arkady uses a focusing screen with wedges
for manual glasses
or not ?
I do not use focusing screens. With different lenses, I have a different amount of marriage.
Arkady, everything is interesting! Thanks! BUT! There is a question: is it possible to rearrange the m42 shank from Jupiter 11 to Jupiter 11 Automatic, where is the standard mount for Kiev 10; 15 ???
And it already depends on your skills :)
if we had a small military factory under our booty, we would have had the skills to attach the Hubl to Nikonvan, but at the moment we have lathes in the rat, there are only screwdrivers and drills! the question was based on the possibility that you were holding both Jupitras in your hands and at least you know the diameter of their bodies at the point where the tails are attached. - 42 on just Jupe 11 is located on a flange, which, with its other side, is put on the “lower” end of the body and is fixed with 4 screws about m1,5. The question is specifically: will this flange fit on the Jupe Auto body?
Vladislav, I just got my hands on the Jupiter-11 automatic lens. I solved the question as follows: I unscrewed the shank from Jupiter and carefully cut off the "antennae" (three pieces) on the mount with a file. The bayonet diameter without them is 41 mm. I took an ordinary M42-EOS adapter without a chip (it was lying around and it was not a pity to kill). The inner diameter of the M42 mount was 41,5 mm. Almost perfect :)
Further on the lens there are 6 holes for the shank fit, the K mount uses only three. The diameter of the circle along which the holes are located is 46 mm. On the M42-EOS mount, I drilled three holes with a diameter of 1,6-1,8 mm at a radius of 23 mm and at an angle of 120 degrees. And so that the arrow of the focal length indicator was on top (the hole was also drilled from above). Due to the fact that at that time I did not have long screws with a M1,5 thread, I drilled holes with a diameter of 3,5 mm on the M42-EOS adapter four millimeters in depth along the holes 1,6-1,8 mm (so that the heads screws were recessed). Put it all together. ATTENTION: assembled together with a worn-out K mount to maintain focus at infinity. It turned out great! Just to change the aperture you need to remove the lens and change it manually by eye. But it seems to me that it will not be necessary. Now I want to buy the dandelion-lushnikov chip itself and glue it to confirm the focus. All these movements were purely for curiosity. But the lens is also quite good, especially considering that it got for free.
Is this lens suitable for astrophotography? Or will focusing be problematic?
almost everything matches, only my u-11 has 13 petals in the diaphragm
"Jupiter-11A 4/135 with the hood on when focusing on the MDF"
"Put on clothes, put on Hope"
Put on a hood.
If you want to put on a hood, you will have to sew clothes on it and put it on your hood.
Fixed
No one, including the author, indicated such an important difference between the U-11A and the U-37A as MDF- and this difference is in favor of the U-11A, which has one of the smallest MDF among manual hundred-thirty-five - 1m! U-37A MDF - 1.2m For those who like to shoot close-ups - this is a very important parameter. I, for example, are not able to distinguish the Ju-11 from the Yu-37 from the picture at equal apertures. In terms of resistance to counter, they also have parity, here it most likely depends on the state of a particular instance, and it is not a fact that the MC version of the Yu-37 will be better than the usual Ju-37 and Yu-11
I will sell a lens of Jupiter-11 135 mm f / 4 copy Carl Zeiss Jena Sonnar 4/135 http://fotoselling.ru/products/9659118
Novosibirsk + by mail in Russia and abroad
__________
Our website: http://fotoselling.ru
Group in contact (more than 20000 participants): http://vk.com/fotoselling
Lenses, cameras, adapters and more
Cash on delivery, reviews, warranties, experience.
Have questions? Ask! http://vk.com/id13311029