Jupiter 11 one of the very good portrait soviet lenses. I put it to the vote on best soviet portrait lens.
There is a very large number of different lenses of the Jupiter-11 brand, you can additionally look into the review JUPITER-11 1: 4 F = 13,5cm P with mount Contax-Kiev RF.
TTX of the Jupiter-11 lens
Focal length: 135mm
Maximum aperture: F4.0 (closes to F22.0)
Number of aperture blades: 12
The weight: 300-400
Minimum Focus Distance: 1.4 meters (indicated on the lens)
The lens presented in this review is from an M39 SLR camera. Jupiter-11 has a classic Zonnar (from Sonnar) scheme of 4 lenses in 3 groups. The parent of the Jupiter 11 optical design was the Carl Zeiss Jena Sonnar T 135mm f4.0 lens.
Jupiter-11 exists in different versions, for more details about the Jupiter-11 lineup you will find the review of its brother - Jupiter-11A.
Lens pros:
- About small dimensions - both the weight and the length of the lens are not great at all.
- Good image quality with the popular zonar blur of the background.
- A huge number of aperture blades, which is 12 pieces and allows you to get even bokeh, which is very popular when shooting portraits.
- Metal casewhich will serve for many more years. My lens was produced in 1962, as evidenced by the first two digits on the marking of the lens, while it looks at 100.
- Allows use on full-frame cameras. On the cropped matrix of mine Nikon D90 (and the rest of the cropped cameras) there is no vignetting at any aperture value.
- The focus ring rotates all 360 degrees, providing the smoothest focusing possible.
Disadvantages that I have identified:
- The diaphragm has only fixed values of 4, 5.6, 8, 11, 16, 22, and not a smooth stroke, like Jupiter-11A.
- There is no possibility of pre-setting the aperture, which appeared in Jupiter-11A.
- A rather small depth of field due to the combination of 135 mm focal length and aperture F / 4.
- The lens does not hold well office and side light, it’s difficult to find a lens hood and it doesn’t help much.
- Not really big aperture, torn only F / 4.0 is not always on hand, for example, when I took a photo in the shade under the trees, I had to set the shutter speed at ISO 400 to 1 \ 100 s at F / 4.0. Take a look at the Jupiter-11A review, there sample photos were taken indoors with a lot of light, but still F / 4 is too small to take off.
- Rare thread 40.5 mm under the filter, my usual protective filter 52 mm did not fit this lens.
How to use with modern cameras?
Lenses with an M39 mounting thread (for SLR cameras, M39 X 1 / 45.2), such as the lens from this review, are very easy to use on almost any modern digital camera (both SLR and mirrorless), for this you just need to choose correct adapter. The cheapest adapters can be found aliexpress.com.
For use on modern digital SLR cameras Canon EOS need M39-Canon EOS adapter, you can buy such an adapter (adapter) here. Also, an adapter M39-Canon EOS can be easily replaced with two adapters: M42-Canon EOS + M39-M42. Detailed information on the use of such lenses with any Canon EOS cameras will find here.
An adapter is required for use on Nikon SLR cameras M39-Nikon F, you can buy such an adapter (adapter) without a lens and a chip here. Also, one adapter M39-Nikon F can be easily replaced with two adapters: M42-Nikon F + M39-M42. Detailed information on the use of such lenses with any modern Nikon cameras will find here.
How to use this lens with cameras of other systems (Pentax, Sony, Fujifilm, Olympus, Panasonic, Samsung, Sigma etc.) - ask in the comments and you will be prompted. If you have any questions on compatibility and adapters, ask in the comments (comments do not require any registration at all, any user can add a comment).
Personal impressions
The lens gives a good picture, great for portraits, the depth of field is quite small. In most cases chromatic aberration not large and almost invisible. Distortion is not observed. Max open f / 4.0 aperture is well suited for shooting. This lens does not pursue sharpness, but simply gives a nice picture. Jupiter-11 creates moderate contrast in the picture, for printing you need to tighten in the editor. In principle, a lot of things in the picture and functionality are similar to Jupiter-37A.
Jupiter 37-A has a diaphragm one third more than Jupiter-11. The optical design of the lenses is the same. I did not find differences in the picture between my instances on the same apertures. Jupiter-37A, however, is with multi-enlightenment and has a smooth diaphragm stroke. Nevertheless, shooting with the 37th Jupiter is more pleasant, since it has a more classic black color and does not attract attention. By the way, in my survey about the best Soviet portrait lens, Jupiter-37A takes the second place, lagging behind only the legendary Helios-40-2.
I really liked the size of Jupiter-11, which is much smaller than the popular Jupiter 37-A. See for yourself the difference in size between Jupiter-11 and Jupiter-37A.
Examples of photos without processing:
Catalog modern brand lenses 'Zenitar' и 'Helios' can look at this link.
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Conclusions
Nice short telephoto lens suitable for portrait photography, the picture is very similar to the well-known Jupiter-37A. When used on cropped cameras, it may not be very convenient to use.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval.
Good afternoon, the Pentax kr camera I put different manual lenses (jupiter 24m, supertakumar, mir-1) everything is fine. I put Jupiter 11 adapter 39 to 42 and 42 to K - the camera refuses to work - it takes 2-3 frames normally, then when you press the button, anyone just clicks, most likely a mirror and that's it. I put my native autofocus or any other manual and everything is fine. Tell me what could be, how can I fix it?
I have the same camera. I had the same problems when I worked with Jupiter9, a photographer friend said that I need to work with the aperture. Usually it darkened and the camera works, but with Jupiter 37 it was easier.
Please tell me there is an opportunity to purchase lenses Jupiter 11, Jupiter 9, I have a 1000d Kenon camera, will they work and what kind of adapter do I need?
It depends on what type of attachment they have to the camera. Look here at Arkady what they are. And at the same time, an article about Soviet lenses on modern cameras.
this is quality
Yes, excellent quality, probably you processed the photo. In general, the lens is not bad, I have such a white one but with a 42mm thread, I rarely use it, I prefered it with Tele-Ennalyt 135mm 1: 2,8, which is 2,8 sharper than Jupiter by 4. Below 2 photos, judge yourself
This photo was taken by Jupiter 11 at aperture 4 and without processing.
And this is Ennalith at aperture 2,8 and it is still sharper than Jupiter at 4.
And so these two lenses look together
Ramil wrote correctly. Why do you bring these pictures. Look where the focus is. Reshoot ...
You missed the focus, sharpness on the railing in front of the vase.
It is worth noting that there are some errors in the article. Autop wrote: "There is no possibility of pre-setting the diaphragm, which appeared in Jupiter-11A." in some models it is still there. I can assume that it appeared in samples after the 1970s.
Only the one who does nothing is not mistaken. Therefore, it is better to correct the mistake than to do nothing. I am lucky that people's lives do not depend on my mistakes, but only confusion can arise in the minds of photographers.
UPDATE: by the way, I want to note that you constantly point out that I am an absolute amateur in matters of photography, while you have been using this site for the fifth year :)
What an interesting dialogue !!!)))))) Low bow to your work, Arkady.
Oh how. A very worthy answer)))
Arkady, good afternoon!
The question is - I bought Jupiter-11 in a white frame.
The issue starts from 70 - 1970, apparently ...
The lens is characterized by the presence of a preset aperture ring.
Visually flawless, barely knit, in a case. But there is a problem ... I put it through the L-39 / NEX adapter on the Sony NEX-3, and I can't focus ...
The lens behavior is completely inadequate ...
At short distances (several meters) there is really no focus, something at the very least appears if the diaphragm is completely closed. With an open aperture in a room with poor light - everything is completely overexposed ...
Only… can focus on the distance. at the 1.4 meter limit - that is, at the closest one. In the position of infinity, everything is blurry ...
Tell me, what are these symptoms like?
So he is for the mirror. Same as in the photo above. Will have to use a macro ring. Or an M42-Nex adapter with a M39-M42 ring. Overexposures are most likely due to the carcass settings, set mode A, or in M select the shutter speed manually.
Carcass in P-mode. And I do not observe such overexposures on any lens - neither on Helios-44, nor on Jupiter-37 - everything is very adequate there ....
As for the length of the flange, as you say ...
I understand that it does not coincide with the Nexian one ... But I thought that the ring takes it into account completely ... The M42 / NEX ring works flawlessly ....
Plus, I put the rangefinder Jupiter-8 on the same ring - and everything was fine….
PS
I have Soviet macro rings on M39 - three rings in a set. Should I try it?
Actually, I figured it out ...
I had adapter rings and M42-NEX, and L39-NEX.
And I just now noticed that they are of different lengths….
The ring under M42 was for DSLR lenses, and under L39 - for rangefinder lenses. Therefore, Jupiter-8 from FED worked fine on it ...
Ring length for M42 - 27,5
Ring length for L39 - 11 mm
As a result, the middle adapter ring from the Soviet set of macro rings on the L39 perfectly helped. With it, the total length of the adapter turned out to be just 27,5.
Jupiter 11 began to focus normally.
It is mirrored, that is, it must be installed on an M42 adapter, with an M42 / 39 adapter ring. In the M39 / NEX ring, it sits much closer to the die than it should.
Selling in Moscow a luxurious copy of Jupiter-11 in a white frame in perfect condition, in a tube and with lids ... 2500 rubles. For 400 I can add an adapter to Sony Nex
pika@inbox.ru
I want to get confused and install it on the Panasonic Lumix DMC-G6 ... what should I expect, my friend say nerdiness - you will tune the camera for a long time, you will torment yourself and throw everything away ... is it worth it to do the adapter ???
Manuals on Panasonic work without problems. Select MF, click on the wheel and focus on the enlarged fragment. Exposure metering works, responsiveness is high, focusing is quite comfortable. You just need to understand that the equivalent focal length is 270 mm. Accordingly, without a stub, you must set the shutter speed to 1/320 and shorter (otherwise the likelihood of grease is high). In addition, the fix. focal for a telephoto, in my opinion, is not convenient. There is an excellent Panasonic 45-150mm (EGF 90-300mm). It is compact, with a stub, gives out good quality and costs used 8-10 tyr. Actually, I would recommend it instead of manuals at 135mm.
I decided that for a video it’s not very nice to change the aperture values with clicks. I unscrewed the diaphragm adjustment ring and shook out the ball beneath it. I screwed the ring back and now the diaphragm is adjusted smoothly.
Please tell me what adapters and filters are needed so that Jupiter 11 and others are screwed onto fuji bayonet version X
To wind the filters are not needed. About the adapters is indicated in the review: For use on Nikon SLR cameras, you need the M39-Nikon F adapter, you can buy such an adapter (adapter) without a lens and a chip here. Also, one M39-Nikon F adapter can be easily replaced with two adapters: M42-Nikon F + M39-M42.
This applies specifically to Jupiter 11 with an M39 thread. Other lenses need other adapters with appropriate mounts.
Good afternoon, I have a mirrorless Fuji camera and a Jupiter 11 lens bought an adapter, but the camera refuses to work, the shutter does not work /
Apparently, you need to set the "shooting without a lens" setting in the camera or something similar.
Thank you, it is, the shutter now works, but for some reason, the clarity is only sooo long distances, for example, a street, a neighboring house, the apartment does not clearly catch anything, what could be the problem?
Either the apartment is small, or the adapter is short. Most likely the first - this lens has a minimum focusing distance of one and a half meters - all that is closer, alas ...
I can hardly imagine an apartment that does not allow renting at a distance of one and a half meters (!).
Here, most likely the second one, Jupiter for mirror thread m39, and an adapter for rangefinder.
Fuji mirrorless is a crop of 1,5; Yu-11 is a focal length of 135 mm; on the crop, an EGF of about 200 mm will be obtained, i.e. classic telephoto (very small viewing angle). It is unlikely that it will be possible to shoot in an apartment with him, there you need at least 6 meters for a portrait. In general, the lens is good, the picture is beautiful.
Have you set the manual mode?
A couple of times while working with the camera, I hit the mode ring accidentally and transferred it to the car-something-there, even in the store when I checked the manual lens. Sellers were laughing very much)
By the way, the shutter just did not work. But it was Nikon
By the way, yes. 40,5 mm, I barely found in due time together with a cap.
Friends, tell me please.
I have an Olympus OM-D E-M10 Mark III
My father-in-law found Jupiter 11 white - as in the article.
What you need to buy to pull this glass on the camera?
Hands itch to try!
You need to buy (via Aliexpress cheaper) the Micro 4/3 adapter on the M42, and to it a small adapter ring M39 / M42.
And you will be happy ...
Good time of day
Need help 🙏🏻😊
Do not tell me which adapter
is needed for a Fujifilm XT 30 camera with a lens - Jupiter 8 M 20/50?
Jupiter-8 was not produced with this type of mount.
Arkady, hello!
My aperture blade has fallen out on one edge and is sticking out.
Please tell me, can you find disassembly information anywhere on your website? Can you point it in the right direction? The fact is that I found a manual for the maintenance of the diaphragm blades - removing oil from the diaphragm, but how to remove it for maintenance is not there.
There is no such information on this site. Search on YouTube, for example. There is.
I bought myself a Nikon D7000, I already had Jupiter 11 silver. Tell me what you need to do with it so that there would be infinity? Will only the M39-Nikon F adapter be enough? Or do you need to do something else with it?
If the lens is "thick", then you need an adapter M39-M42 and M42-Nikon thin without a lens. Then you need to deepen the lens unit by ~ 2-2.5 mm (depends on the thickness of the M42-Nikon adapter). This can usually be done by adjusting the rings between the lens unit and focuser. If this is not enough, you need to cut.
If the lens is "skinny" (rangefinder) - cut and nothing more. The lens unit must be deepened by 19 mm because. Further on the classics - М39-М42 + М42-nikon thin.
The lens will spoil the lens with a high degree of probability. A normal adapter with a lens costs about the same as a lousy Korean-Japanese 135 / 2.8 for Nikon right away. The Ju-11 through a lens adapter is no better than the wonders of "banana" Asia from the 1970s.
Thank you for your reply! I'm probably fat? Here's one.
I found a video of how they disassemble a lens like mine, do I understand correctly that I need to add another ~ 2-2.5 mm to the ring that is there?
In general, the native old Nikkors 135 / 3.5 and 135 / 2.8 have recently been very inexpensive - sometimes cheaper than the same Jupiters (because the old Nikkors have ugly diaphragms and the quality is generally not better, yes).
Apparently there are other options for white Jupiter-11. Mine is from No. 7012246, the aperture ring from 4 to 22 rotates smoothly without stoppers, there is no preset value, the petals are the same - 12. The focus ring is not thickened, as on your lens, but almost flush with the body, the front lens does not rotate like a rangefinder. Thread 39. I think it was for Zenit-3M as a replacement ...
You have a rangefinder version for FED / Zorkiy cameras
Jupiter 11 at 39mm can be a rangefinder, it’s not fundamentally placed on a kenon, focusing from 1 to 1.2 m. Is it lens softness or focus error?
You asked - I answered. According to the description, your lens is a conversion from the rangefinder Yu11 under the M39. If the MDF is 2.5 m, then exactly so.
In the portrait photos in the review, in my opinion, there is a small focus error.
Hello, I recently purchased
Olympus om 10 film, I can’t find an adapter for Soviet lenses, can anyone tell me what?
There aren't any. The bayonet is large in diameter, large in working length. There are no adapters from OM to M42, bayonets H and K.
I bought a Jupiter 11 from 1952, but it turned out to have the same mount as the Kyiv Contax, with three petals, but slightly larger in size. What are the options?
This is not a Kontax. If your sample has a 1.5 m MDF, then it is a Kyiv-Kontax converted to Exakta (but I cannot guarantee it). If it is a 2.5 m MDF, then it is a FED/Zorky adapted to Exakta. Why Exakta? Because there were no other bayonets that were relevant in the USSR in the 50s. By the way, take care of your lens - there are few left like these, released in the early 1950s. They usually have a unique coating, possibly physical, and not chemical, like the later ones.
Looks like you're right, the owner had Exacta for sale, MDF 2,5 but after that the ring turns another 90 degrees. I bought such a pain in the ass, the lenses are perfect, I'll look for a donor of spare parts for the rework. Thanks for the answer.
You can put the lens block into the helicoid from the Contax U11, for example. There is full compatibility.
At the same time I bought an even stranger lens, a Jupiter 3 from 1951, the lens block is standard, but brass, the body is like a Contax, but ends with a helicoid thread like the tube Industars...
Perhaps your lenses were from a Soviet DIYer. The Yu3 from 1951 is also a very valuable specimen. They say they were made of German glass, but that is unlikely - the Yu3 is already a lens recalculated for our glass. But the coating, again, may be better.
Although the sources are different, it is quite possible that the Yu 3 was disassembled to the ground, except for the aperture blades (I was never able to put them back in place once); it was done very professionally, possibly a prototype. Actually, I have more than a dozen, all different, from the 50s, some resemble a Canon 50/1,2 m 39. My dad used to say, “the Soviet ones are very good, but only one out of fifty” (a Soviet engineer, old school, worked at KINAP)…
If there is a serial one, it is already inexperienced by definition. Probably, the first releases were small series, it took more time to lick each lens.