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Hello.
I ask for your experienced advice in choosing a lens :)
The carcass itself and the optics I have D90 + 50mm 1.8D + MC HELIOS-81H 2/50 = more than was enough for creativity.
But I realized that a wide angle was needed and then the search, study, etc. began - the prices of them, of course; (
So I decided to ask you for advice, because I don’t know what to choose.
Native Nikon, non-native Tokina or even offered Zenitar 16mm 2.8.
I will be waiting for your advice :)
PS. I recently twisted the Elicar V-HQ 90 mm f / 2.5 Macro MC (Nikon F) lens in my hands, but it was not possible to test, they said it was very cool))) I did not find decent information about it. Do you know such a lens?
Tokin ... .116 or 124
Hello! I didn't have a camera and my nerves were fine, and my head didn't hurt ...! And now I added one more headache - I bought a Dorr DAF 42 Power Zoom flash for Nikon cameras, of course, but new! Omitting the technical details of the details, I would like to ask a couple of questions, if I may! 1) What literature would you advise to study on working with a flash and ... 2) Guided by the “tips” of the flash on setting the aperture, shutter speed and ISO, this kind of crap turns out - either “overexposure”, then “underlight”. I intuitively set all these parameters more “correctly” and the frames are normal. Is the flash buggy or am I unable to “read” its “tips”? Thanks in advance and sorry for my terminology!
This is incorrect TTL operation. re-read the instructions for the flash
I will try! Although the translation is still from German to Russian broken!
I was stingy, and I also took the Chinese one, at first I was shocked ...
But after I read the instructions on the 5th circle, insight came to me)))
Now everything works with a bang, all functions are subject to)
"How many wonderful moments / the spirit of enlightenment gives us ..."
Set aside the jokes lieutenant himself shocked! :))
It works correctly! This is my hands growing from the wrong place! It's just that the flash is programmed to certain extreme ISOs, apertures, and intermediate ones! Thanks for the advice!
Good evening.
I bought a Nikon 10-24mm f / 3.5-4.5G lens - after using it, I understand that it is very soapy (at different apertures). What does it mean?! That I got a bad copy or are there any other secrets? Tell me please!
Thanks in advance!
Have you bought a new or used one? The new one should work great.
Newly ..
I wanted to buy Tokinu or Sigma, because the budget was limited, but ... after thinking it over, I decided to dig in and bought my native Nikonovsky, counting on the best quality. And then such a bummer! I didn't even think that Nikon could get married ((
Missing the trick? I was once offered in the H.40 / 2,8 store with a strong back focus. I hope there are no problems with return-replacement?
Valery, I checked the lens on the grid and it really has back focus. I have never encountered this before. How to fix it? and what makes soap all over the frame because of this?
Does autofocus work? Maybe some kind of wild back-front focus, although I have not seen this on the widths. Is there anything to compare with? Worse 18-55 hours, for example? Soap on one side or all over the frame? Does closing the diaphragm change the situation even a little? It is likely that the marriage is good, that the new one - you can go to the store and exchange. Instead of conducting an investigation, it is faster and easier to simply hand over to the store. Well, and then click on some other shirik and look, maybe all the shiriks are soapy for you, or maybe there is a problem with the camera.
Autofocus works. soap all over the frame. I changed the aperture from mines to max sizes, but I didn't see much difference. I also thought that I was complaining about the width, tk. I often work with fixed and long-range ones, where the sharpness makes me very happy. But ... THIS shirik gives a terrible picture, which I don't want to watch.
I bought through the online store. Now all this red tape with a replacement will be. I don’t know if it will be possible to replace him at all ?!
send a photo for discussion)
It should be possible. Moreover, within a short period of time after the purchase, they are obliged to give money without any further ado. The main thing is to draw up everything in writing so that if something happens you have documentary evidence of your actions. That is, immediately carry a written claim in free form, do two things (indicating that the claim in 2 copies - one for them, the other for you). On your copy, put a mark that they accepted the claim with the date and stamp, as well as the signature and decoding of the signature of the recipient. However, sellers often return money without further ado, after a thorough and well-informed conversation.
“… Within a short period of time after the purchase, they are obliged to give money without any further ado” - not a fact, when I took the lens through an online store at the point of issue they said: no 2 weeks for testing, test everything here, gave the money, signed sales contract - adyu, then only to the service. By the way, the service should probably fix the back focus under warranty. If it's about him. And it is probably worth showing the service about the correct diagnosis.
Thank you all for your answers and advice !! - I will solve the problem.
Good luck.
Of course, unfortunately, there are many unscrupulous sellers. But the law is the law and if you act in accordance with it, you can get your money back. Another thing is that many people release everything on the brakes, and in general they are too lazy to bother. I would, frankly, be too lazy to sue, but one of my acquaintances loves this business and catches and returns things that he didn’t like in stores overdue - somewhere they give it right away, somewhere you have to tinker, but he hasn’t had any punctures :) The truth is one of a hundred such violent, the rest will just leave everything as it is. Well, yes, the warranty service can fix it for free. Suddenly there the lens is simply skewed or something. And yes, I would like to see the result, maybe a person is not used to shirikam and is waiting for a super resolution like in fixes. Although, apparently, already an experienced user and the problem is still in the glass ...
Here are examples of photos with aperture 8
please pliz
and this one with aperture 22
No one has canceled the 14-day period for exchange, this also applies to online stores! Even if you signed any papers that they say I have no claims, I am not going to return them - no one has canceled the “Law on Consumer Rights Protection” !!! So BOLD the claim in two copies (it is possible in free form, but in great detail), one ONLY by mail with a NOTICE OF HANDING, the other with a mail mark (you need the date of receipt of the letter by mail) and wait. The time of sending by mail is NOT INCLUDED in the 14-day period of the return guarantee! Be patient, Friend and do not leave it just like that, if you are guilty - you have to punish !!! I think all members of the forum will cross their fingers for you! Good luck!
Thank you very much!!!
fully support! don't let it go !!! and besides, if they impede, be sure to indicate the name of the unscrupulous seller!
It seems like I don’t see any problem with soap.
I have a Nikon AF-S 28-70mm F2.8D lens in use. I have one problem with this glass, you won’t believe it, I’m taking it off and it puts the white balance on the camera just terrible, then it takes away the pictures in purple, then in greenish, that's the story. On other lenses, the device fulfills everything correctly. What can you advise Arkady? Below I attached a snapshot to evaluate the BB.
I thought that the camera’s automatics set BB. My car has a normal white color, but the shirt has a light purple hue, but is it because of the blue posters? But can I recommend trying the program Rav or Fsh to move the slider and look at the picture .
+1
I was sitting reading clever things about the photo and came across a review that someone was photographing the concert and a concert laser beam into the lens, as a result he burned the matrix ... Is this possible or tales from the crypt? If it is true, then could our Gurus give advice - what is not worth aiming the lens at when shooting, for example, electric welding, bright sun, any glare, etc.? It was not in vain that I asked about welding, at our work very often beautiful compositions come out, but I'm afraid to shoot! Thanks in advance!
I shot the scorching sun in the desert without the slightest damage to the matrix. And about the lasers, read the specification, they are very different.
there are hand-held lasers that burn CD boxes, so it's easy to burn a matrix, welding has two negative components - brightness is a couple of orders of magnitude higher than the brightness of the sun and a lot of ultraviolet radiation, with welding I would care more about the eyes than about the matrix
Yes, the green disco laser in the lens, when shooting, it burns out the matrix, there is video on YouTube.
Well, welding is still yes, it’s better to remove it with a good dark filter, and save your eyes.
I immediately thought about filters that it would not be superfluous. A set of filters should come - I'll try it neatly !!!
Canon 6D + 35/2, direct hit, two years have passed and so far so good.
1/30 f2.0
and you are at a slow shutter speed, with a couple of dozen times, or shoot a vidosik.
To "burn the matrix", you need a very powerful laser, which will damage the retina. Light equipment does not "shoot" narrow beams and does not have high power; even Chinese 500 mW pointers are hardly capable of this (I have a couple of these; they burn a balloon at the most). And on the Internet you will not be shown that.
It’s possible that there are fakes on YouTube about burning the matrix, but I think caution and the advice of the Guru will not be superfluous! Thanks for the answer!
More than once I came across advertisements for the sale of fotik with a burnt matrix (usually a number of pixels burn out and there is a strip in the photo). People point to the reason for filming at a disco. One person with a photo camera told that he filmed a video at 5 dm2 at a disco and damaged the matrix after several hits from a green laser - it was insulting. In general, I am careful now. Even on a small home laser setup, I try not to point the lens while shooting. By the way, it seems to me that the likelihood of such a breakdown when taking a photo is below - the light hits the matrix in a very short period, most likely it will withstand it. But in the video, everything can be much more serious.
About the video, you correctly noticed it! Most likely, if it burns out, then when shooting a video!
Good afternoon, advise a budget portrait portrait !!!
I have a nikon d3100
And what is the lens for the D3100? If it is 18-55 hours, then you can see for yourself whether the focal 50mm suits you for portraits (whether it will be too narrow or vice versa wide). If everything is ok - then take 50 1.8g - a great option to start. And the aperture is high, and good autofocus. The build quality is quite usable, and the sharpness is straight from the 1.8.
I have a Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G AF-S ED DX VR Nikkor
Then look, it may be more convenient to shoot at 85mm. If yes, then there is an excellent 85 1.8g, also sharp and fast. In addition, it will be better than fifty dollars to maintain the proportions of the face, and also the depth of field will become a little narrower.
it is already much more expensive !!! (((
50 1,8 with him how will it be ???
You do not have a photo studio? I personally do not see any noticeable distortion at 50mm on the crop
Thank you!
85s have an order of magnitude tastier picture. But with her you need to move away. + price does not please
50 1.8g will also be more than good!
Nikon 35 / 1,8g plus Jupiter 37
Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G AF-S ED DX VR Nikkor
Hello. I have a HELIOS 44-2 lens with a focal length of 20 and infinity. Many 10 and infinity. It is also slightly larger from “10”. Please tell me how it differs from “10”. Thanks.
10 difference
ELIOS 44-2 with a focal length of 20 ?!
maybe there is a focusing distance on the depth of field scale?
Good afternoon. Help solve this problem: I can’t download photos from the camera correctly to the computer. Nikon d7200 camera. The downloaded files are not displayed correctly. I’m shooting in RAW. Nikonovsky wiev NX-2 indicates that this format is not supported. For some reason, EXIF has a size 1620x1080 files. The Zoner program opens files, but also the size is 1620x1080. I tried to download directly through the cable from the camera or through the SD card slot - there is one result.
Sergey, I also think about 7200, pliz throw off a couple of raw jpegs! thanks!
Here is the jpg.
And more
thanks Sergey and can a couple of portraits?
My wiev NX-2 also did not open RAVs from either 5100 or older cameras. I downloaded nikon wiev NX-i from the site, opens it, although it shows a thumbnail of the ZhP to RAV according to the Piccha-control setting in the camera, so I don't understand the phrase “I saw a raw RAV”. It's the same story with Lightroom.
Nikon Capture NX2 without problems opens RAVy with D5100.
Wiev NX-2 works fine for me with the D3100, but not with the D7200.
So it is, I have a camera since 2013 and have not had such problems.
change the viewer. or update.
I need to work with Raw, what does the viewer have to do with it?
put somewhere one rav file, it is interesting to open it with different software, I will unsubscribe about the result
I don’t even know what to answer, so as not to go down to direct descriptions of genetics and development. (((
open in another converter, yes?
Already rolled down.
Opened in another editor.
in which, when, when they had the latest update, what the lightroom and the camera were saying with captcha, attach the file to the file hosting, describe the file settings in the camera menu.
otherwise you are like "doctor, it hurts somewhere."
Thanks to everyone. View NX-i opens RAVy with D7200.
Nostradamus?
Hello, please advise, something from the old foreign wide-angle on d90y modern expensive ((((
Old wide-angle lenses were made to fit the full frame, and your crop will not be very wide. The key question is what angle do you need? As an option Samyang 14 / 2.8
I need to photograph a hairdresser for work, I tried on my 18-105, it didn’t really work out, and the closet with the solarium did not fit at all (((
Then 14mm might not be enough. You can get by with a little blood, taking 3-4 vertical frames at 18mm and stick together in one, but you need a tripod.
Thank you!
Tell me, I climbed here, read, that's what I took:
1. World-20
2. Tokina AT-X PRO 12-24mm \ 4.0 AF (IF) SD DX Asp. for.Nikon
3. Nikon Tamron Af 11-18
4. Carl Zeiss Jena DDR Flektogon 4/20
I will be very grateful
The world and Zeiss will not suit you, your 18-105 is wider, and everything in the 11-18 range is the most. Of course there is also a fish (fish eye), but it is not very cheap and you still need to be able to handle it.
But in fact, the advice with gluing two or three frames is the simplest, fastest and cheapest. Many smartphones have a panorama shooting function, without Photoshop and other editors, which is easier.
Thank you all for the comments, dear ones, I will do the gluing, but I still need a lens, I often come across this, so will I focus on a token or tamron ???
Tokin.
can 116, or 124
Good day.
I choose between a macro lens Micro-Nikkor-PC 55mm f3,5 and MC Wave-9 50 mm f / 2.8. Camera Nikon D3200, Nikon D200. What do you advise?
Thanks! And Nikon 50 / 1.8 D is much inferior to Nikon 50 / 1,8G if you use them for macro?
I remove the question. Found the answer in the lens reviews on the site.
Dear Lynx, tell me whether it is possible on this lens http://aukro.ua/obektiv-yupiter-8m-i6381554983.html wind the macro rings?
reverse ring. inverse, and especially inverse
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xBwv7Cy-qVE
Good afternoon, I have a crop d3100, advise a lens for landscape photography !!!
Yes, even 18-55 on F / 11 would be nice.
Is it like a standard lens ???
Yeah. And believe me - it will be better than most Soviet or other shiriks with FR of 18-20 mm.
I compared the canon whale with the Mir-20M MC. Mir-20 was better in geometry (almost no distortion), but 18-55 took high and even sharpness in closed ones, which the World does not have.
When shooting at 18-20 mm on the crop, you can achieve a good result by stitching images into panoramas.
If it's completely pinned down - there are zooms for a crop type 10-20, but I don't know what the quality is.
There are 8 mm fisheries, but this is extreme and distortion is often off topic.
I support! I shoot landscapes on whales, 18-55, and when I want to grab something further 55-20 on the F16 aperture I am completely satisfied)
55-200 * Freud error
And at what distance do you plan to shoot landscapes? Do you need a wide angle or telephoto? What lenses on the d3100 already have? What is the budget and is it planned to switch to a full frame?
If these questions are answered, glass can be discussed more specifically. In general, then most often called a landscape painter shirik. There are two native Nikon's shirikas per crop, but they are very expensive. If you have money for them, take them. If not, three companies are ready to help you with their autofocus super wide-angle zooms:
- sigma. There are 10-20 4-5.6 - the sharpness is decent, does not catch hares and is collected well. There is also a super-wide sigma 8-16 - if you do not mind the money and need a super width - take it;
- tokina - 12-24 f4 and 11-16 2.8. Both are superb. 12-24 did not test especially, but 11-16 is good, it's a pity for 2.8 sharpness is not super in the corners and ha is. The second one is more for reporting due to the high aperture ratio; for the landscape, you still need to clamp the aperture;
- tamron. I cannot recommend any tamron. Now they seem to be planning to do something like 10-24vs for the crop, I think it will be great by analogy with 15-30vs, but so far this company has nothing to do with these focal points.
I myself use Nikon Sigma 10-20 on the crop and am generally happy with it.
Also for landscapes are very good and televisions. It's easier here, good options are Nikon 55-200vr, Nikon 70-300vr or Tamron 70-300vs.
For me, different landscapes look in a photo on different glasses in completely different ways. And in some cases shirik is better, in some telephoto lenses, and sometimes a standard lens is enough. Actually, until you told about your plans for shooting, the best advice is to take 18-55, clamp the aperture and put it on a tripod.
Pastor!
What native wide-angle lenses (crop.) NIKON would you buy?
Yes, there are only two, so the choice is small. 12-24 is better assembled and has a constant aperture, but for me in width, a wide angle is needed, rather than assembly and aperture. Especially for greater sharpness, you still need to cover it, but on f8 the difference between 12-24 and 10-24 is minimal. But I nevertheless bought sigma for Nikon, because my hometown is very expensive, and I don’t see a big difference.
Thanks for the reply and good shots, Pastor!
Hello! Help me please! I bought a FUJIMI MC-5100 wired remote control for the Nikkon D36 camera and I just can't figure out the shutter speed. I set one shutter speed on the remote control, and the camera works with the one that is installed on it. I set different modes, the result is the same - the shutter speed set on the camera works, but not on the remote control!
Do not consider me a bummer, now I will study the instructions and google, it’s just that someone from our members of the forum is working closely with the remote control and will give an answer while I dig into the instructions! Thank you in advance!
The question about the shutter is closed, the answer is found! I'm wildly sorry!
Good afternoon Arkady! I got a meopta openar 1.8 / 40 lens in my hands, I want to use it on a Nikon d90. All I could read was that he had a short segment, but some forum users write that by redoing it, you can get great pictures on crop. What do you say about this glass?
Thanks in advance.
Not only doesn’t fit along the segment, it will not cover APS-C either.
On a mirrorless mirror with a small matrix, you can screw.
High Work on the Internet!
Work at home, without skills, is acceptable to everyone!
Hello, friends! Recently, a polarizing filter came from a friendly China. I wrote out one of the cheap ones, since in my head there is only a theory and a vague concept for what it is needed in general! There is a difference, but not as noticeable as in articles and reviews. I understand that from a filter at a price of 200 rubles. you should not expect fiction, but the question is different! Is it worth it for a person for whom photography is only a favorite hobby, but at the same time striving to improve his skills in this direction, buy expensive filters? I understand that the question is purely personal, but I ask for a purely subjective answer! Thanks in advance for possible answers!
At this stage, when there is no understanding of the essence, a better technique will not be able to provide a tangible increase in image quality.
Here I agree with you, but ... For example, a joiner cannot make good furniture without good wood. A glazier will not blow a beautiful vase out of bad glass, etc. So, probably, a photographer will not take a good photo with bad equipment by analogy with the above examples ?!
An analogy is not a proof, but only an analogy. If we recall the photographers of the last century, then they shot on the most terrible technique (compared to the current one). The manic belief that there is a linear dependence of the quality of images on the quality of photographic equipment at the initial stage of becoming a photographer is erroneous.
Then about the technique! Why are old Japanese (and Soviet) glass and metal lenses more valued by photographers than modern plastic ones?
This is also a misconception. Which photographers? Those who actually work, in the overwhelming majority, use modern autofocus lenses. Now the Olympic Games are underway, have you seen at least one photographer there with any old manual? By the way, this is the most popular of the modern ones, it contains information about the shooting technique for each photo, look for old lenses "made of metal and glass" https://500px.com/popular . In our countries, junk is loved, because there is simply no money for something new. Videographers love manuals, they do not need focus.
Got it! No questions yet! There is something to think about ...
When you understand what exactly does not suit you in a cheap light filter, then go buy it. But not earlier. Maybe you twist the polarik and say: “I don’t even need a gift”.
Exactly! After all, it may be that he will not be needed at all? You gave me a more correct idea of the question - is it really needed AT ALL, is it the subject without which the photographer (regardless of skill) cannot live? !!
depending on what to photograph, in general: if the landscapes are in clear weather, then it is better with him, if portraits, then he is not needed.
I even put on KIT 18-55. and less dust, and the front cover clings to metal better
Good day, dear. I combed my pens to buy a battery pack. In this regard, the question. On the market, the price range is from 5 to 11 kilo rubles. If someone used this device, tell me if such a spread is justified. Not dumb to take cheap? Thanks!
Of course, I'm not a professional, I didn't take Chinese - it works fine on the D5100. It is convenient to hold, it weighs little! Made with high quality, no jagged, fit the details well, rubber inserts! The price is 1800 rubles! I can't say anything about the branded ones.
I had about 15 batblocks for different cameras, most of them were the cheapest Chinese ones up to 2 thousand rubles. The problem was only once with Nikon D80, there, due to poor contact between the batblock and the camera, the exposure wheels turned off. Twisted-twisted - the problem did not appear anymore. Personally, I see the point in my native butblock only for reporting in the rain, that is, for protected cameras. Because the Chinese batblock does not guarantee weather protection. If you are not planning to shoot on a shower, then any Chinese bat-block will cope with its task no worse than its own. For 11 thousand, it makes no sense to take a bat-block for me, I even took Chinese for 800 for d1600.
Hello, such a question, is there a MIR 24N lens, I found its 2 versions with a silver and black body on the back of the lens, is there any difference between them? Which is better?
You answered somehow not reasonably ...
Hello, there is such a problem. Attempts to photograph on the Helios-44m fail.
Subjects in focus appear blurred, as if superimposed on a “super blurred skin” effect. Alas, I don’t know how to explain. You can blame everything on the fact that I just have crooked hands, however, I still have the feeling that sometimes this is not the case.
I put it, by the way, on Nikon
As an example, I threw off an enlarged screen from a photograph.
Hello, I had this when using an adapter with a lens.
Recently I finished studying the topic about Helios 44-2, more precisely, about its refinement under infinity for Nikkon. This effect slipped there, which manifested itself after a change in the distance between the groups of lenses in the lens unit. In order to get infinity on this lens for Nikkon, you need to move the lens block closer to the matrix. It is more correct to move the entire lens block closer to the matrix, it is easier to move the rear group of lenses, thereby changing the distance between the front and rear groups of lenses. With this method, a similar effect appears. Perhaps there are other reasons, I do not pretend to the ultimate truth!
Could you write specific actions for this? Or indicate the source in which the action plan is described in more detail?
Thank you in advance!
it will not suit you, because for the appearance of this phenomenon, it is necessary that before this someone tried to saw through the lens to Nikon, and unsuccessfully.
I changed it myself at work today. Gone, 30 minutes clean time. I fiddled with unwinding for a very long time - I was very tightly tightened.
Here are the materials that I was guided by. I advise you to read both articles in order to understand the principle of work. He removed the aluminum washer completely, with it a little bit to infinity was not enough. At the same time, the aperture was not jammed, but it is very individual and depends on the specific lens.
release until 1983
http://www.fotuz.ru/64-gelios-44-2-beskonechnost-na-nikon-pereyustirovka-na-nikon.html
Release from 1983 onwards ...
http://www.fotuz.ru/69-pereyustirovka-gelios-44-2-proizvodstva-posle-1983-goda-na-nikon.html
The year of manufacture can be recognized by the first two digits of the lens number.
Hello, dear forum users!
There is a Canon HD video lens 20X zoom XL 5.4-108MM, with a Canon XL mount and a wild desire to screw this colossus onto the Sony A7S. Has anyone seen the canon xl - e-mount adapter? Or are there craftsmen capable of at least regrinding the shank?
If I understand correctly, this is a camera lens with a 1/3 ″ 4,8mm × 3,6mm matrix with a 7,5 crop. So on A7s it won't cover the full frame. Maybe somehow, with a wild vignette, the BMPCC will cover a 12.48mm × 7.02mm crop of 2.88. Working segments also need to be dealt with. It is possible to make a purely mechanical adapter for a mirrorless, but how will a motorized lens work in the manual? As for me, there is no prospect.
Damn, an ambush. Tell me where on the Nikon D-800 flash sync on the rear curtain and slow flash sync turn on. 3 hours I fight, I studied the manual. I can not find.
from the instruction: Press the lightning button and rotate the main command dial until the symbol for the desired flash mode is displayed on the control panel
Good evening. Chi do not worry about the past MK, Chi lecture about those yaki vi reached their rivne?
I'm a beginner. Sorry, I can ask a question not quite right. Tell me if you install Jupiter 21m on the Sony a58. What kind of front end you need to do and how it will affect the photo quality.