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Arkady, there is no Pentax K-s2 in the list of cameras
Hello !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I apologize in advance for my language. I am fond of photo. For 3 years I would never have thought that I would get carried away with it so seriously !!!! I have a Nikon d 7100 DX format, a couple of months after the acquisition I regretted buying this format, now I am considering buying a second camera with FX format. QUESTION: In one of the comments I read that Canon is for girls. I’ve been tormented by the question for a year: The difference between Canon and Nikon was viewed by Canon vs Nikon on youtube, something is better, something is worse, like everywhere else, but Canon is more popular than Nikon. One of the reasons I read that Nikon's customer service is getting worse and worse every year and people give up and switch to Canon. I know that Canon’s sharpness is inferior to Nikon, but I don’t think that these reasons make Canon more popular. I watched the professionals and which cameras they use, as a rule they have 2 Canon and Nikon cameras, but they use Canon more. Come up and ask WHY? I feel awkward, that's why I want to ask you.
I’m self-taught, but despite this, my photos are on Shutterstock, Bigstock, Istock, Fotolia and Adobe stock. And the SECOND QUESTION about printing, what photos turn out better when printing Canon or Nikon (I mean above average size, large size)? Answer PLEASE ANYTHING IN ADVANCE THANKS JAAAAAAAAAA
Philosophical question. Look for the answer in other sections
Thank you, negative answer, also an answer, and the section, apparently, such "go through everything by poking" just wanted to save time. You guys are professionals and, as a rule, you have experience in this field with different cameras from different companies, so I wanted to know your experience, where is it better to use Nikon, and where is Canon. Maybe Canon has more automation …………. And they are good at shooting birds, I think the answer to these questions would help many amateur photographers, family photos, or wildlife. And as for printing, all pro-photographers are associated with printing nowadays. Once again, MANY THANKS.
Why are you so worried? There is no difference, Nikon, Kenon, Sony, Pentax, all plus or minus the same thing. What kind of nonsense is this for girls, and then for boys, and what then is for aunts with uncles or grandparents? What you like, then take what is enough money, then buy.
But actually, since you are sending work to the drains, it would not hurt you to catch up a little on the technical issue. Read more articles and reviews on this site, and soon you will be surprised how your outlook on photography will change.
A beautiful answer, but I just wanted to know your ABM opinion between two SLR cameras, specific firms, and not mirrorless cameras and not soap dishes, as you call. YOUR OPINION, and not what I like, with this I will decide how something by myself. And as for the technical issue, you didn’t touch upon this topic in vain; here you also need to think about who to catch up with. Regards yaaaaaaaaa
Are you in America (or another English-speaking country) all so impudent? They wrote everything correctly to you
Madame, for about 50 years, spears have been breaking (there is nothing for anyone to do) about the advantage of some system, do you think any guru in prostration will tell you here in a minute?
Cute girl! You need to use your energy in completely different directions!
And I ask you, do not fill your head with pieces of iron and glass. Your D7100 is one of the finest cameras in the world. If photography warms your heart so much, do your best to study the basics of fine art. Read books by renowned masters of photography.
Believe me, you just need to learn how to look at the world through the eyes of the artist. Yes, we need to learn this, whether we want it or not.
Good luck!
System selection. Summer 2015
https://radojuva.com.ua/2015/06/music-response/
Find, bring to your mouth, chew and swallow?
take Sony.
there everything is for you the highest quality.
I agree, Sony is also in my field of vision, and Samsung, too, which will probably present its new camera at cp + show February 2016, but I'm interested in the Nikon Canon question. In any case, thanks again for the response.
Thank you, negative answer, also an answer, and the section, apparently, such "go through everything by poking" just wanted to save time. You guys are professionals and, as a rule, you have experience in this field with different cameras from different companies, so I wanted to know your experience, where is it better to use Nikon, and where is Canon. Maybe Canon has more automation …………. And they are good at shooting birds, I think the answer to these questions would help many amateur photographers, family photos, or wildlife. And as for printing, all pro-photographers are associated with printing nowadays. Once again, MANY THANKS.
Yes, that's all nonsense.
And taste.
There are no objecivistic criteria for firms.
Even people who love to shoot, for example, on the D700, drag themselves from the D610, and vice versa.
Sorry, the year was wrong in February 2017.
Yes, by the way, Nikon uses a microchip from Sony - it's just for info.
not a microchip, but matrices and not always, but in certain models
Sorry, in that case the sensor would be more correct and Sony sensor is used in professional Nikon d800 models …… .. This answer suits you. Sorry, in order to understand Russian technical terminology, I had to use this site http://tdaniels.livejournal.com/54738.html
the matrix is the sensor.
and by the way, not only in d800
I love you, take Canon!
Canon 5dIII
Instead of a full-frame camera, it’s better to buy a Russian language textbook for yourself.
It was really talented !!!!!!!!!!
Good day! Faced such a problem. I photograph the Nikon 3000mm f / 35G AF-S DX on the Nikon D1.8, I shoot mainly on the M, auto white balance. At 100-200 Iso noticed noise in some photos, under normal lighting conditions. I’ve rented relatively recently, a little more than six months. So this problem is from my crooked hands or because of the camera)?
Here it is necessary to disassemble for a specific photo.
sorry here you can’t upload a big photo! and I’d throw it as an example, as one photo-engraver told me that most likely the matrix is noisy)
noise is a loose concept.
Dear Arkady!
Could you give the names of lenses (and, possibly, other monitored equipment) in your reviews not as horribly, but in a uniform manner?
For example, in the topic for D40, I was preparing a comment in which I placed three lenses whose names I copied from your reviews.
Happened:
- Nikon 18-105mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED Nikkor VR AF-S SWM DX IF Aspherical
- Nikon DX VR AF-S Nikkor 18-140mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED SWM IF Aspherical
- Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-200mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED SWM VR IF Aspherical
Looking at this chaotic abbreviation of notation, it is quite difficult to understand how they differ (except for focus).
Therefore, I had to linger for about 10 minutes, putting the names in order.
Happened:
- Nikon 18-105mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED Nikkor VR AF-S SWM DX IF Aspherical
- Nikon 18-140mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED Nikkor VR AF-S SWM DX IF Aspherical
- Nikon 18-200mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED Nikkor VR AF-S SWM DX IF Aspherical
It turned out - they are no different, except for the same focus.
Therefore, a request for the future - for the convenience of your readers, adhere to any one notation system when describing devices.
And if possible, bring to the system those reviews that already exist.
in general, they just do not differ in focus. )))
They differ in focal lengths.
So first learn to read notation, it's easier.
That's a bookworm :) Everyone understands what I meant, one Lynx was indignant with non-academic jargon
And another question for Arkady. In the reviewed lens reviews, such a very subjective concept as “sharp” or “not sharp” lens appears.
At the same time, I remember that in Soviet lenses, as a rule, a very specific parameter was used - "resolution", in lin / mm.
In the characteristics of foreign lenses, such a parameter is not used, or what?
Arkady calls the lenses the way inscriptions are written on them. So here we must blame Nikon for not adhering to the system. :)
Hello!
I want to buy Nikon Nikkor AF-S 70-300 mm F / 4.5-5.6 G IF-ED VR for D5200. What is the proper EGF for a cropped camera 100-450 or 46-200?
EGF 105-450. It is very easy to recognize. 70 * 1.5-300 * 1.5, where 1.5 is the crop factor of the camera. For all Nikon DX cameras, the crop factor is 1.5. The Nikon D5200 is a Nikon DX class camera with an APS-C type sensor. Details here.
I reasoned from the opposite. If Nikon Nikkor AF-S 70-300 for FF cameras, then 70 / 1.5-300 / 1.5. Because for example whale 18-55 translate 18 * 1.5-55 * 1.5
An analogue of 70-300 for ff is approximately 55-200 for crop, for example such.
I have a fix of 35. Now I face a choice of 70-300 or 55-300
Optically, both are good, but 70-300 is about twice as expensive as 55-300. The 55-300 has slow autofocus and a rotating front lens when focusing. 70-300 is devoid of these inconveniences.
Good evening!
Arkady, tell me please, what shooting conditions are needed with a Helios lens to spin
the background?
Thank you for your reply!
I'm afraid I need a full frame
the presence of a background, preferably variegated, as well as a camera, a Helios lens, and a photographer who can shoot.
Lynx, thanks for the help!
On the Nikon 18-140 lens, the front anthers moved away. Always used carefully, and suddenly at the next zooming discovered. Looking at the structure, I didn’t see any kind of crime there, like broken latches. I saw traces similar to glue. Is this ring simply glued in places where the grooves are?
I had the same on 18-105. Glued neatly and forgot
I just looked at my 18-140. Nail banged slightly, same thing. It seems that it is not glued at all, so, a drop of silicone. Glued with superglue, lightly.
double-sided tape can grab
Hello, Arkady. I have a Nikon D700 with a mileage of 5 for 123000 years already. The last 3 years I have been tortured by an external flash, that is, everything is exactly as you described in the Nikona d700 review (With active use of external flashes, the Nikon D700 hot shoe breaks, after which the flash begins to behave similarly Even if the camera is placed on a table or a tripod, any flash, for example, the native Nikon SB-910, is installed, the flash can activate any of its functions on its own. Usually, the malfunction is manifested in the fact that the camera stops "seeing" the flash, or blocks the shutter release, the flash can spontaneously give any number of pulses of any power (you can burn your eyes), the flash focusing grid is activated, etc. If you move the flash in the hot shoe a little, the problem goes away for a few seconds. Clamping the metal contacts of the hot shoe solves the problem only for a while .) So the question is - where in Ukraine can you replace a city shoe and how much can it cost?
Thanks a lot in advance.
With St. Sergey
In the service center they do what it costs - I don't remember. Now my d700 is under repair, we are changing the mirror, the same trouble with the flash, the master does not know how to fix the shoe :(
thank you
Hello, friends! Need advice.
SOURCES:
In stock Nikon D51000. I have 3 (three) lenses available: Nikkor AF70-210 1: 4-5.6, Nikkor AF 18-55 1: 3.5-5.6, Nikkor AF 50mm 1: 1.8D.
ESSENCE:
They offer, for a "penny", a bunch of lenses from the USSR - Jupiters, Helius, Industars - everything, like workers.
WHY IT IS FOR ME:
I do not even know.
QUESTION:
Is it worth taking them “in order to have it”, will they be useful “in life”? After all, they will need rings, adapters, alteration of lenses, and this is money and time for alteration!
PS Until I even revealed all the possibilities of lenses that I have, I'm just starting to learn how to work with electronic DSLRs (before that Smena, Zenits, film cameras such as Pentax, Samsung). But this sweet word - FREEBIE, does not let you sleep. At the same time, there is no desire to become overgrown with unnecessary "trash"!
Thanks in advance for any answers! Don't ask for a "childish" question!
No one will sell you a sensible lens for a penny. Look at the prices, for example, on Helios-40-2, they are striving for the cost of the native Nikkor 85mm 1.8D or even the G-version.
If "for a penny" - take it; but keep in mind that:
1) with an adapter without a lens, focusing to infinity will not,
2) on the D5100 there is no automatic exposure metering for manual optics, you will need to do everything by hand.
But when photographing them, you will get useful experience and new impressions :) + the picture of the old film lenses on the figure is quite interesting, you’ll suddenly like it.
Quote: "+ the picture of old film lenses on the digital is quite interesting, suddenly you will like it."
Here I am talking about too. No matter how much they scolded Helios for their variation in quality, my 44-2 quality is good or I'm used to it.
And about the focus, the exposure meter, it is not essential. They filmed before on the Smena, but on the "peephole" and the pictures were great ...!
And for the price in general a fairy tale - 7 !!! lenses for 1000 rubles !!! 3-Helios, 2-Industara, 2-Jupiter. In his words, everything is normal. I haven't seen it myself yet. I don’t know the brand or the real state, I’ll go on the weekend.
Unsubscribe. if interesting.
Thank you!
Take and run so as not to be taken away. Then you can sell but more expensive.
Point # 1 bothers me. I myself can’t do it, but I don’t want to pay for it. Point # 2 does not bother me at all, familiar!
looking what looking how much.
but for a thousand - why not take it, if there are even ordinary geliks 44-2, then all the same, having put in order, you can sell more expensive later
Lynx knows what he is talking about: D
Yes.
Friends! Thanks for answering my question!
I wanted something like that - take it, see what is good for myself, what "poop" to throw away or .... You, with your answers, swept aside all my doubts and hesitations!
I will take it! again the question price is about nothing! But they cost much more in the market, and even if things are working and I can add to my device, then I will be happy!
For this I take my leave and think that the topic can be closed, so as not to clog up the "broadcast"!
Thanks again for your help! Peace and Goodness to you!
Good afternoon!
Tell me, be so kind, what lens is suitable for shooting a group of people in tight spaces (corporate parties, children's parties ..)? Camera Nikon D7100. Tried Tokinu 12-28 f4 - returned, the frames are not sharp, blurry, soapy. I decided to stay with the “native” lenses. I looked after Nikon 10-24 f3.5-4.5 but I doubt it ... (((Will he cope with this task, won't the people on him be distorted ?!
Thank you in advance for your answers and advice))
Sorry, but what was the shutter speed on blurry photos?
..80, 100 and above
under the same conditions I took 2 frames in a row: 1 - excellent, 2 - blurry.
Hello, friends!
This morning, we had an awesome fog in the city! I tried to take a picture and it turned out such garbage that I am ashamed to look ... Please tell me what literature is worth studying about this type of photography (Google will help me, this is understandable! It's just that there is a lot, but I would like a proven author with practical advice)? In our city, sometimes there are SUCH beautiful fogs over the river, it’s a feast for the eyes, but the ability to capture is not enough ... Ooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo? Can anyone have personal experience? The shooting conditions are disgusting - whitish fog, the sky is almost white, and the water is not blue at all ... horror!
Have you tried a polarik?
Not yet ... I'm waiting when it comes. everything with bare hands, but through a UV filter.
I did it as breaking, -1,0, + 1. This is +1. Those are even worse. But thanks for the advice! To be honest, I constantly forget to make adjustments in the footsteps. Sometimes I shoot again, with adjustments, and sometimes the plot “goes away”.
Maybe you should try to glue all the pictures with exposure compensation in HDR?
Here you need to add contrast, saturation and color balance. All this is easily done in a graphical editor.
I did this for myself - it worked out fine. I just want to take "live" pictures, with little or no processing. And I am not friends with HDR at all, I cannot understand how it works ... I know the theory, but I cannot help but feel it.
1. Any modern landscape photos undergo mandatory processing.
2. read the blog of Elena Petrova http://liseykina.livejournal.com/ She writes well about filming fogs and other landscapes, as well as about processing.
3. Forget about HDR.
About point 1 - Apparently you have to do so, it's not scary. The age of films and negatives retouching is passing ... long live Photoshop!
About point 2 - Thank you! I will definitely study it!
About point 3 - Fuck him! How many times I tried to use it, I did not understand its practical meaning. The technical side and the principle are clear, but in practical use, I didn't notice a fig difference! It's easier to work with your hands and your head! Especially when you are in no hurry!
Thanks for the advice!
but the bush in the center is of course a white fur animal
Is it good or bad? Sorry, I don’t understand the terms!
from a compositional and semantic point of view, this is bad
Got it! There are no questions yet! :)
Photos without processing, only reduced size.
Good afternoon. I am reading your articles. Everything is intelligible and competent. I am a pensioner, now there is time for a photo. I want to buy a used Yongnuo YN565EX Speedlite flash for Nikon d3300. This camera is not on your list of “Cameras that support Nikon's CLS auto flash commander with built-in flash”. Because d3300, new, maybe THIS mode is still included in it? If not, what to buy in return?
The younger D3xxx / D5xxx cameras do not have a CLS Nikon system by default. is always.
Therefore, in your case, if you need to shoot with a flash taken from the camera, and you want to automatically work with TTL metering, you will have to use the TTL sync cable for Nikon. On ebee or aliexpress it can be bought somewhere for about 1000-1500 rubles.
Alternatively, use the flash "on fire", setting it on fire with the built-in flash of the camera, set to the minimum value. But in this case, you will have to set both the camera and the flash in the “M” mode, manually selecting the parameters.
....
You can certainly buy Chinese radio synchronizers with TTL transmission, but they are not cheap.
.......
And if you do not need to use the flash taken from the camera, then take the 565th and do not worry about anything else.
Good day!
Advise a great macro lens for Nikon? For jewelry. Several options are desirable in price categories.
Thank you!
So they are all described here - from 40 to 105. Probably a jeweler and 40 / 2,8 micro will suit.
Good day, dear. LYNX, thanks for the explanatory explanation of the flash for the D3300! In this case, what are the fundamental differences between the Y565 and the Y568 and what is better to take? What to look for and how to check when buying a used flash? Thanks in advance
oh, I don’t know about such subtleties, they bake these flashes like hot cakes, new models. some small additives.
check on the carcass in all modes of puffing, check if there is under-light-overexposure, especially when shooting “in the face” and “puff into the ceiling”.
Scuffs, chips, free rotation of the head, how the zoom works - zoom noise without jamming, the glass is not yellowed, is it not burnt out.
clarify about batteries. In theory, you need good capacious batteries with a good charger, such as black eneluup + BC700 charger.
although at worst any NiMH batteries with a simple charger will do. From the M-video of what.
although if they give it away with a flash - not bad.
Buying a flash off hand is always a lottery. But it is better to take from neophytes - all sorts of "defacek tried photos and merge because they bought the sixth iPhone." Such flashes are usually not particularly useful.
But it’s better not to take any wedding planners and reporters with professional equipment, they are often noticeably killed already, even with an excellent appearance.
Arkady, you have moved the site. But do you also plan to organize a forum?
It is very inconvenient to communicate in a blog format, no search, no other useful and necessary features ...
No, the forum is a fever, the site will turn into a booth. One topic is highlighted for communication, it’s better to ask here.
Hello. I am planning to buy Nikon D7200, but I cannot choose a lens ... I was already ready to take 18-140, but I am afraid of the “vacuum cleaner effect”. The budget is limited: about 50000 hryvnia for a camera and lens. Advise something more or less versatile to start with.
"To be afraid of a wolf - do not go to the forest"
over time, and with lenses with a fixed lens on the matrix, dust will settle, and a couple of dust particles will appear in the lens. The matrix is cleaned, and in the lens dust in such an amount affects only the price, if you decide to sell,
For that kind of money, it’s better to buy a used one. lens but better
"To be afraid of a wolf - do not go to the forest"
over time, and with lenses with a fixed lens on the matrix, dust will settle, and a couple of dust particles will appear in the lens. The matrix is cleaned, and in the lens dust in such an amount affects only the price, if you decide to sell,
For that kind of money, it’s better to buy a used one. lens but better
Your new set costs 35000 UAH.
If you do not know what to take from the lenses (you are not ready to spend money on a full frame), buy a used camera for the camera. 18-105 - swing, decide on the right focal points. Then sell the lens - buy some kind of fixed lens that has received focal points
And what’s better to do: take a full frame and one lens, or a crop camera and two lenses? In any case, I want to buy Nikkor AF-S 85mm F1.8G .. Just if you take a crop, you can buy another lens. Should I sacrifice a second lens, and if so, how much better will the full frame be?
85 1,8zh is definitely a good lens, it's worth the money (for crop. For example, I think the price / quality ratio is 35 1,8zh).
If you are an amateur who will continue to be interested in and develop photography - take a full frame right away. All the same, someday you will come to this. Fortunately now there are all sorts of nikon d610 for example.
In general, do not try to buy everything at once.
Personally, as an amateur enthusiast, I have Nikon D610, whale 24-85 BP, and (temporarily absent) Nikon 85 1,8zh
Thanks for the support. And what is the viewing angle of 85mm? Many call it a telescope .. is it possible to buy it with a carcass, or is it better to start with a whale?
on crop il fullframe?
If in a full frame, then it is most convenient for them for me to photograph a portrait to the waist, if on the street, then it is normal to be in full growth
85 this is very sharp, pretty beautiful bokeh and other praises can be sung about it. But as one lens “for everything” it will not be clear enough
my advice (subjective): take something like nikon d750 or d610 and used. nikon 24-85 BP (it is often sold cheaply as a whale). Decide on which focal point you want to "create art", and take a fix there (you might even want something like 28 1,8 g)
depends on the goals.
For the part you need FF and for the part the crop is not bad.
Great choice. The effect of a vacuum cleaner is not a problem, but a design feature. Take it boldly and have fun.
Good day Friends!
I would like to ask a question about the item in the camera menu (Nikon D5100) - "Image quality". There are three groups there:
1. RAW + JPEG three points in quality
2. Just RAW
3. JPEG - three points for quality
The RAW format and its advantages are clear to me and have been tried out in editing, but why did the manufacturer add JPEG (with different quality) to RAW? As I understand it, in this case, JPEG is needed in order for friends to quickly, on the spot, throw a photo, and to sort out RAW at home ??? But, as I think, adding one more copy, but in a different form, "eats" the battery and increases the time for processing the photo by the camera itself ...
What is the practical benefit of adding JPEG to the installed RAW? Do I need it if I am a fig, first I look at the photo on my computer, transfer it from RAW to the format I need, and then I share the photo with friends?
Thanks in advance for the possible answers to my “childish” question!
this is to save time and process RAW only where JPEG does not suit. I think you won't even notice the difference in the battery consumption. the burst speed will of course decrease. well, and if this were not the case, the question would arise "why not? ..."
A-ha ...!
Thanks! I didn't even think about the “extra” work, when JPEG suits me and I don't have to tinker with RAW! It will save you tons of time!
Thanks again!!!
Good evening to all, I am a amateur photographer, gave Nikon d 810 and 85 fix 1.8, if I understood correctly, the portraits are wonderful. I would like a wide-angle, I doubt between Nikon and Sigma what to get, 18-35, 16-35; 24 f. 18 from nikkor, or sigma, 20 or 24. f-1-4: Thank you for your help
,
The listed widths are very different. You need to understand that the picture at 16 mm and 24 mm are two big differences. For landscapes, I would take Nikkorovsky 16-35 / 4 or / and 14-24 / 2.8. In principle, everything that you listed with the caveat for the need to use the flash on dark lenses in the room and the fact that 24 mm is sometimes not wide enough is suitable for reporting. As for me, the perfect pair is 16-35 / 4 + 24 / 1.4. Decide why you need a lens and yourself will understand what you need to buy.
Thank you very much for the advice, I still doubt whether it is worth taking a 16.35 f4 zoom, or all the same it will be decided on a sigma 24. f-1.4, what do you think?
See also tamron 15-30 2.8
All the same, I ordered Sigma 24. 1.4, I’ve got used to my 85, 1.8 in a bit of time, so I decided not to mess with the zoom, Thanks to Everyone
For starters 16-35, at 810 the sharpness is normal, no matter what they write in the reviews and reviews of this lens. The stabilizer eliminates micro-lubricants completely, only when shooting at a wide angle, follow the displacements of the camera along the axis of the lens, that is, the tilt when you press the shutter button, the angles on the right can be blurred, the stabilizer will not help here.
Good afternoon!
Tell me about the possible reasons for the soapiness of the photo frame on Jupiter 37A with f3,5 + Nikon D3300?
Thank you.
If the lens is not disassembled, then there is condensation from the lubricant on one of the lenses or fungus. If you understood, you could turn the lens over. More precisely, the repairman will say
I bought it from a repairman.
So the master is not very (
Photo, example.
Take a look at the live view of a defocused point light source. Can you imagine the circle of confusion of normal Jupiter-37A?
If your lens is assembled incorrectly, then the circle will be clumsy - with a bright edging, distorted along the edge, etc.
Here the symptoms are similar: https://radojuva.com/2013/04/triplet-f-2-8-78-mm/
The back lens could be turned upside down.
I hope that we exclude the shake? ..
Vibrations are excluded, tripod, delayed descent. Traces of repair can be seen in the bolts and lubrication of lithol-24, the infinity was immediately under Nikon, it was completely possible to visually build on clouds (5 km), while there was an additional move in torsion and extension of the lens block. Turbidity decreases to f5,6, turbidity is similar to a light filter. At f3,5, the turbidity effect is pronounced around the periphery of the frame.
Is it possible to eliminate the defect in the enlightenment of the front lens, there is a 1,2mm point, at some viewing angles in the very center.
In Gimp, I bring the frames back to “normal” with significant adjustments.
I look at the provided sample photos on this site, the difference is very noticeable. Sharpness and saturation are also reduced.
I have I61 2,8 / 58 d38 with a filter, the sharpness is many times better and the color rendering is richer.
Well, then flip the rear lens, as I understand it, there are no more obvious reasons (condensate, stains, fungus).
The lens is upside down.
The alignment ring is superfluous, probably under another focal length to infinity.
Turned over, cleaned, removed the ring.
Works!
Thank you forum users!
Not at all, come to us again)
reason 1 - crooked assembly. I would recommend returning it to the seller with a claim.
True, you can look at the lumen, at the turbidity of the glasses, but this is unlikely.
You can, of course, tinker yourself with "flipping the lenses", more this sometimes gives a result, but in general a normal jupe should not have this.
Good afternoon, please tell me which Soviet lens is better suited for nikon d3100 for wedding photography? I really want to try Soviet optics. thanks for the early reply
For staged shots, I would take Kaleinar 5N 100 / 2.8, Helios 81N 50 / 2.0. To shoot the reporting part on the manual is not the best option.
Thank you, I would like for the production shots
No!
why not?
to make life easier for yourself :), buy Nikon 85 1.8G and you will be happy
I would even recommend a bunch of 85 1.8g + 35 1.8g.
Exposure and focusing - in manual mode, exposure without the help of automation is selected by the trial method, it will take tens of seconds to prepare for the picture, will they be ready to wait for you?
Helios-81N.
With a Lushnikov chip.
In general, for weddings D3100 is certainly not enough.
Hello ! Thanks for your site !!!!! Such a question I suffer before choosing pancolar zenitar 1/7: either this takumarchik ... ... is interested in a level higher than helios ... the goal is all around :)
Level higher than Helios is Nikon 85 / 1,8G
Sewed on soap. Take immediately then any 50 / 1.4.
From manuals like Auto Sears 55 / 1.4 are not bad, they say. The SMC Pentax-M 50 / 1.4 is good.
Thank you, Pentax smc is cool, but I can't pull it ... here such parsley I'm afraid to overpay for a non-working 1.4 if there is 1.8-2 cheaper ... auto sears say good, looked, I will think about options ..
MS Pankolar is not much cheaper than Pentax M, but it is 1.8, and Pentax 1.4 is all the same.
If I choose among F / 2-1.8, I would have stopped at Helios-44) Actually, I did just that.
Takumarchik smc f 2 50
Good day!
Tell me, please, will it be possible to control the aperture from the camera or will I have to shoot on a completely closed aperture when installing manual macro rings on the lens without an aperture ring (D5100 camera)?
Those. the assembly will be of such a plan: D5100 + macro rings + 18-55. Autofocus on 18-55 is already dead.
No, it will not be saved. Do as follows:
1. Set the desired diaphragm value. without macro rings in the chamber;
2. Close the diaphragm with a button on the camera;
3. Without releasing the close button, the lens is removed from the camera - the diaphragm remains closed (at least, Canon seemed to be like that)
4. Put the lens on the ring
5. Profit!
18-55 in any case will close the diaphragm taken from the carcass (Nikon). Either install the diaphragm by clamping the actuator pin on the lens, or buy an old manual including the USSR and do everything manually.
Understood thanks. There are just Soviet manuals - Helios-44-2 and I-61L / D. But the sharpness of Helios is not entirely satisfactory, and for the rangefinder I-61 (sharpness is gorgeous) - you cannot change the focusing distance. :(
In this regard, the question: will Industar-61L / 3 be the same in sharpness as its rangefinder counterpart? Or how lucky?
If you have Industar-61 L / D - remake it as here: https://radojuva.com/2016/03/industar-61-l-d-2-8-55-fed/
And use. A good machine, especially if the instance is successful.
IMHO, LZ to buy after him zero sense - he is only healthier and with a curved diaphragm.
Similarly, Industar-26M gives a good result, which, moreover, will be even poorer. Again, if the instance is intact. https://radojuva.com/2016/01/i-26m-industar-26m-52-2-8/
I personally liked the I-26M most of all, which I use now.
I read it. It's a pity to cut the I-61. And I'm not sure that I will succeed normally. If I could do with a simple disassembly / assembly without "peeling", then I would take a chance.
Want some advice? Get a reverse ring: on one side under the mount, on the other, thread for 52 mm. Set your whale back to front and get the opportunity to control the diaphragm lever (skipping rope), and even an increase many times more, especially with macro rings. But as a light you will need a mini nuclear bomb, well, or a candy bar i.e. studio flash, a normal flash can also be dispensed with, but you need to beat it almost right up close.
And I like this thought. I have already ordered a pair of rings on aliexpress - for 52 and 67 mm.