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Hello everyone! I dropped the flash of the SB700 in a whale set in a case, fell from 2 meters (the mezzanine) onto the carpet. I inserted the batteries and I hear the lamp with the reflector go to a narrow angle to the extreme position of 120 mm, it came to a rattle and with vibration returned to the diffuser on 24mm. The display shows a zoom error. When you press the manual zoom button, there is no reaction. There is no change in position on the template either, the lighting angles do not change. There are flashes in M and in TTL, the power in M changes. I disassembled it looked like nothing fell off from mechanics, heard that sb 700 the worm falls out - the motor is spinning and moving the reflector. Maybe something has happened with the electronics? The processor or the program crashed. Resetting the settings did not help. Maybe a new firmware download and install. Advise.
from falling or soldered wiring at the drive - you need to inspect
or the drive or "limit switch" has flown out and the system "does not catch".
it’s better to take it to the master.
all examined mechanical damage, only suspicion of boards and microcircuits. Now the plans are to get into the special SC Nikon or Yekaterinburg or in the main SC of the Russian Federation Moscow.
Hello, I have a nikon d5200, I want to try to shoot something like documentary films, or films in general, short films, etc. tell me a good lens from the “not expensive” vintage, which will do this job well, while I don’t pretend to be a big screen, but want to get maximum fit with a budget lens.
Yes, any manual that fshshtyrit you drawing
world 1 for example. a sufficient combination of vintage and figurative design to make it "like real"
what's the best 35mm?
the best - Olympus 35 / 2.8
and nikon has art-sigma 35 / 1,4 (it seems)
But how to put the Olympus on Nikon D5200?
very difficult
Sorry for asking, please tell me, 35-ku at a budget price, which for my camera
Nikon 35 / 1,8G on the secondary from 6 to 20 thousand.
the best way
https://radojuva.com/2013/03/obzor-mir-2-8-37/
I like this one)
I bought exactly a week ago for 15000 new.
This is not a collage, but a gallery. The building is located on Khreshchatyk in Kiev.
and considered this world? https://radojuva.com/2011/09/obzor-ms-mir-24-n/
this is world-1
no place here for such topics
is always!
Do I understand correctly that if I crop the frame during processing, then I must first worry about the movement. With the rule 1 / (focal length of the lens) and the prospect of cutting out part of the frame during processing, make a correction and shorten the shutter speed n times with the type 1/2 * (focal lens). Those. instead of 1/60, use 1/125 for 50 mm glass on a camera with FF, and for crop cameras, adjust in advance for the crop factor?
no. if there is a stir, then it is.
and whether you "cut", or print on a larger format - the difference is insignificant.
just if you look at the frame with shake only on the smartphone screen, then it will be almost invisible.
...........
in general, it is better not to do strong cropping. Trim edges - yes, but don't cut half of the frame
Thanks. But sometimes in the frame of "mimoprohodism" there may be a lot of unnecessary things. There may be an option when the subject is very successful for a portrait, but you need to cut off more than half of the linear dimensions and here (with a sufficient number of MP) you can see a significant drop in sharpness. Contribution to this drop, IMHO, is made by the resolution of the lens and micro-lubrication.
And I (if that) absolutely agree that it is better to crop before releasing the shutter :)
in 90% of cases, if a person has enough self-criticism and taste, frames with such a strong crop somehow end up in the trash, so it’s better not to bother right away.
read Bresson, even though he’s a little fanatical about it.
The master has almost all famous photos - staged
there .. everything is not so clear. )))
I declare it to you as the daughter of Nikon and Fujik.
Dear community, tell me what to purchase on Nikon d 810, there are two options for consideration. 18.35 f.3.5- 4.5 or 16-35. f.4 with a stub. The former has higher grades at DXOMARC; weight and price, the second stub and constant aperture, what do you think, thank you in advance for your help
1. Do not believe DXO
2. 16-35 professional lens and take it (wider, with a stub, a constant aperture, etc.)
Arkady, thanks for the advice, I thought you would say about 70. 200 f4 as an addition to 16.35, the photographer is not professional, but for myself, there are 1.8 85 portraits very much.
Arkady, thank you, but about 70.200 f 4.for an amateur on Nikon 810, I did not find an alternative to him for the price of quality, only if there is a tamron, but I fear, I repeat, an amateur, I photograph for myself, What do you think, is a good choice?
I would rather take a portrait of 80-200 mk3
Arkady, good evening again. Thank you very much for the advice about 16.35.f4, I did so and ordered it. I want to ask for advice again, maybe it was not so explained about the portrait, I have 85.1.8, I wanted to ask about 70.200 f4 or a veteran 70.300. Φ4.5 .5.6. as the zooms are not very heavy and which I can take with me with decent picture quality. I understand everything, it can be seen at a price, but, I repeat, the photographer is not a professional, for pleasure, the d810 camera, therefore weight and quality and focus are important. Of these two options, what would you buy for this camera? PS Maybe there is an alternative? Thank you so much for your advice.
70-200 / 4 VR and 70-300 are boring for a portrait. Of these, of course, I would take the first. An alternative is the old 70-210 / 4 with a beautiful pattern. Personally, I would buy 85 180 for 2.8tka, it is inexpensive, you can find it in general for 250 USD. But 180 2.8 will tear any, even a light tele zoom class 70 (80) -200 (210).
250 - this is in a damaged condition, for almost new 400-450 they ask, but in general, yes, the glass is good. I also bought a x1,5 autofocus teleconverter for mine and put up Tair-3 for sale, comparing the result. It turned out to be an excellent option for portraits (without a teleconverter) and for birds / squirrels
Arkady, thanks again for your advice, you think that in addition to 85.18 and 16.35. f4, get, like a telephoto 180 2.8, instead of 70.200? I searched for it on our Internet, only in Amazon through dpreview I found for 1000 the same in our store costs 70.200. And where to buy such a lens, if not through Amazon and a new one?
Look somewhere, we have a dime a dozen at our flea markets.
fuck youhttps://www.elcorteingles.es/electronica/A12313929-objetivo-nikon-af-s-180-mm-f28-if-ed-para-nikon-slr/
Horrible. What an illiteracy.
illiteracy, horror, I asked you for advice, showed how much it costs, if you ever ask someone what you don’t really understand. Would you like that answer? Thank you for your advice.
Arkady, please, do not go to the “bazaar of photo-makers” that calls lenses “lenses”! As a trained person, you know perfectly well the difference between the lens and the lens itself, one of the lens details. A large army of amateur photographers needs to be taught literacy and you are an example for them in the first place! Good luck !!!
Yes, this is simply clumsy Anglicism - they call lenses "lens", unlike the Germans, for example. But borrowing is so-so.
Maybe in a laboratory with a 20-pound tripod, 18-35 will be better than 16-35, but in real life, the stabilizer allows you to take it off 1/8 second, if you get a hold of it. Grain at 810 is noticeable with ISO200, respectively, the detail also suffers. The advantages of sharper lenses are noticeable only at the minimum ISO values. According to experience 16-35, it is maximally sharp at f5.6, with detail falling from 8. Angles can be soapy when shooting with hands from tilting along the axis of the lens from pressing the shutter button, the stabilizer has nothing to do with it. And yet, the rubber band from the whale 18-55 approaches him
Hello, does anyone know how many lines are in the center and around the edges of the Nikkor 35mm F1,8G lens?
I beg for help, I’ve already broken my head, I want a vintage lens, 35mm, 50mm, which will be on the nikon d5200 with preservation of infinity and all nishtyakov, which will give a nice flat picture and not twisted background, thanks a lot in advance for the answer.
I beg for help, I’ve already broken my head, I want a vintage lens, 35mm, 50mm, which will be on the nikon d5200 with preservation of infinity and all nishtyakov, which will give a nice flat picture and not twisted background, thanks a lot in advance for the answer.
you need to get a great picture that lends itself well to grading
or can a wider angle be better?
wider or already it is up to you to decide.
look for Nikon ai-s or D on ebee:
20/2,8
28/3,5
28 / 2,8E
35 / 1,4 Ai
Look here, may be interested
https://www.youtube.com/user/mat0fr
Hello everyone!
Winter is coming, cold! The question of using a DSLR camera (Nikkon D5100) in the cold begins to torment. There is no experience of using digital SLRs in the cold at all, and I have not used film ones for a long time! Hence the question-help: HOW CORRECTLY TO USE CLC and LENSES ON THE COLD ??? Until the Internet "was". Please tell us what is possible and what is not, or advise sensible literature !!! Thanks in advance for possible answers! I hope this is interesting not only for me!
Well, 5100 and it’s really better not to drop or beat off, all the same, not reporting.
try not to rotate the screen, the issue of fragility of the plastic on the axis.
Be sure to get a second battery that you need to carry in your inner pocket, because in the cold, small Nikon batteries can behave unpredictably, but they often sit corny.
Do not be afraid of external moisture, but as it was already said - when bringing it into a warm room, it is better to leave it for an hour in a "classic wardrobe bag". the camera will gradually warm up (1-3 hours), and avoid condensation on the inside of the camera. If you have to shoot both indoors and out, first shoot everything indoors, and only then outdoors.
lower than -10 ~ -15 should beware, to -10 even amateur cameras in principle suffer.
..........
There are no problems with batteries, as many as 3 pieces! Condensation is a common practice for all electronics. But what about the lenses, there is a motor, gears and ...? Thanks!
with lenses - exactly the same as with a carcass. condensation problems, including which will then dry on the internal lenses and the matrix and there will be stubborn stains, so it is best to avoid.
oh yes, gears in cheap and ordinary lenses are usually plastic, motors are often ordinary "motors", sliding contacts are brass ... so there is nothing to rust there.
People nollarmy pay me for this and you are giving it away!
Don't worry, especially 5100 with a whale lens at -20 was tested for about an hour in winter - the zoom didn't wedge, the stabilizer and autofocus worked as it should. Maybe the technique would have withstood more, but I could not. Only charge the battery fully before leaving.
ps I mean physical use! For example: dropping into the snow, beating off icicles with a lens is not worth it, but what else?
in severe frost, the photographer will be bent earlier than a modern DSLR. Do not bring the camera into a warm room after frost in the on state or turn it on immediately after it has been brought into heat, because condensation appears on and in the chamber, and it may fail. And remember that in cold weather, batteries run out faster.
https://radojuva.com/2012/01/winter-photo-camera/ - great article on this topic. There is also a lot of discussion and experience outlined in the comments.
Hello.
Today, after two years of using the Nikon D7100, I suddenly made an unpleasant discovery.
It turns out that the autofocus system on my camera gives very different results at different focusing distances.
This is the story - I bought the legendary Nikon ED AF Nikkor 80-200mm 1: 2.8D (MKII) portrait lens from my hands. After using the lens for a while, I began to notice a noticeable instability in focusing - some shots looked amazingly sharp, some were outright soap. I began to scrutinize the lens at home from a tripod to the front / back focus using well-known templates from the Internet. I determined the front focus separately for different focal points, set a certain average value in the camera closer to those focal points that I use most often (around the middle 95-145). I go to photograph children on the street in clear weather - the same garbage - some of the frames are sharp as a razor, some are ugly soap. Shaving is excluded - I deliberately shoot at shutter speeds of at least 1/250, lighting allows. After a couple more front focus checks, I finally discovered that if I focus from a distance of about 2 meters, I get some front focus values (on average about -15), which can be corrected using the autofocus correction system in the camera. When I go out onto the balcony and take a photograph of the sign from 4 meters, the back focus goes much further, the maximum possible correction of -20 does not help anymore, there it is already necessary to set everything at -40, which the camera no longer allows.
Decided to check on other lenses? on another telephoto lens (Sigma 70-210, f3,5-4,5) and on a fifty-ruble 1,8G- - absolutely the same picture. A fifty-kopeck piece at 2 meters is perfectly sharp, without any front / back focuses, I step back 4 meters - soap begins, terrible front focus.
Has anyone encountered such a disaster? Is this a problem with the focus module specifically on my camera?
Perhaps (and most likely) it really is in the camera. I had similar problems on d7000. The same lens on the d3300, d80 and d5200 worked flawlessly, but on the d7000 it required corrections. I faced the same on canon 50d - 40d, 5d, 7d gave a hit, and 50d smeared on different glasses. Moreover, on a number of glasses, both 50d and d7000 behave absolutely well, and on a number of glasses they smear. I did not notice the connection with the quality of the lenses. At 50d, a cheap 55-250 hit the target, 70-200 2.8lis2 smeared, 50 1.4d hit, 50 1.4g smeared. Personally, I didn’t do anything about it, I just used other carcasses with problem lenses, and I didn’t wear these glasses on the d7000 and 50d. Ideally, the solution is to go to the service and do the alignment. Again, ideally, align the camera with glasses, let the workers adjust all the glasses to work with the carcass. The d7100 that I used for a short time did not smear at 50 1.8g, 18-105vr and 70-300vr (I did not seem to put other glasses on it).
In general, the network has hundreds of texts of the same type on how to check LENS for front / back focus.
There are also a couple of extremists' texts who, at home, twisted “three cherished cogs” (google this phrase) to set the autofocus sensors exactly in the focal plane, thereby eliminating a stable single-type miss (back focus or front focus). But I have not yet found information about my case - this is when autofocus smears not stably, but differently depending on the focusing distance.
In general, in the articles about how people shoot at a target, in order to calculate the number for the autofocus correction, there are no unequivocal recommendations on the topic from what distance to take a photo of a test target. As my case showed, this is not just important, it RADICALLY changes the test results. The results at distances of 1,5 m, ~ 2 meters and ~ 4 meters, in my case, give three completely different results.
So I want to understand - how frequent a problem my case is and how to act in such a situation.
Well, this is a clear jamb of the camera, by the way, at different distances the focusing is often different, as well as in different lighting conditions - this is a relatively common jamb. So take it to the service.
in general, misses on the focal point are a jamb of lenses, and a lot of glasses suffer from them.
but "at a distance" and the truth is most likely knocked down the focus of the carcass. but it is definitely better to go to the service center, because it is very easy and very strong to screw up "with three cherished cogs".
Hello, advise 28mm, 35mm vintage lens, camera - nikon
CZ flektogon 2.4 / 35
but is there anything cheaper, but no less cool?)
free cheese only in a mousetrap
Hello! only my virus is downloaded for android (mobile version of the site)? file name of the form android **** 6.0.apk
Yes, only you.
Hello, please tell me which lens is better to buy Nikon 50 1.4d or 85 1.8d. Thanks for the great reviews.
85 1.8d, IMHO, more interesting.
50 / 1,8G
Thanks for the answers, it's just that in my city these two lenses are sold at good prices =)
Hello. Faced here with a little difficulty. The point is this. I'd like to get hold of 85 manual. At the same time, it’s not strange, I want to support the domestic, God grant him health and direct hands, the manufacturer. Hence the question: does anyone own, or perhaps even try on Zenitar 85 / 1,4? If so, how is it? What do you think?
Wait, save up money for Samyang 85mm f / 1.2 manual, will appear soon.
New Zenitar unreasonably expensive, while the quality is average.
For less money, you can find Jupiter-9 (better Krasnogorsk white, but you can also black, but it needs to be adjusted, because it usually soaps); as an option Vega-12B (90 mm). Their reviews are on this site.
There is a Samyang 85mm f / 1.4, but also expensive; although, according to reviews, very good.
better have an autofocus native ... problems will be much less. especially on the crop
Relatives, Samyang ... That's all clear. So the glass too. By the way, I have Jupiter37 and Helios81. Both with dandelions. I am completely satisfied with them, only Jupiter is too long for me, for the crop. I want something new, not used. Therefore, I asked. We will search, as they say))
Hello! Help with advice please! Today for the first time in my life I want to photograph the starry sky. The weather promises to be good, the sky is clear, until the fig (I'm at the dacha, 40 km from the city), why not! Hence the question - how and with what? There are: Nikon D5100, remotes, batteries, tripod. There are 3 lenses: Nikkor 18-105, Nikkor 35 / 1.8, Tamron 70-300. Briefly advise how to shoot, so as not to lose a fine night! Of course, I understand that the masterpieces will not work the first time, but I really want to get an acceptable result and shut up my ego !!! Thanks in advance!!!
http://photo-monster.ru/lessons/read/fotografiruem-zvezdyi-s-deyvom-morou.html
Hello again! Please tell me if the photographer's vision affects the sharpness of the frame when focusing through the viewfinder. I have not very good eyesight, myopia. With autofocus, the quality is standard, and with manual sharpness every other time. The viewfinder sharpness setting is not enough, since there is not enough “revolutions” of the wheel, the service information in the viewfinder is ALMOST “sharp”. They shoot without glasses, it is not convenient, even with an anatomical eyecup. Maybe your hands are just crooked? Lifeview is not always applicable ... Thanks in advance!
affects of course.
look for “diopter” viewfinder attachments.
Have you tried focusing on a non-focusing sensor in the OVI - the green circle at the bottom left? Lights up when the focus is at the selected point, it helps me.
sorry, "... on the focus sensor .."
My good friend, bespectacled man, takes off his glasses, without any anatomy, and is not steamed, he’s used to it.
I put such a nozzle on the viewfinder http://ali.pub/2i8ch0
I put it for working with manual glasses, the solution is not the most ideal, tk. do the Chinese and you have to catch at what angle to look into it :), but I stuck. I put my eyepiece after my own - I didn't like it, so this one is always on the camera, although the vision is normal, but with this magnifier the eyes get tired less, even with autofocus lenses.
And I put the 1.17 Nikon eyepiece on the d7100. And it became easier to focus, and all indicators are visible
In bright bought.
In bright bought
Find out what kind of eyepiece, where to get it?
No need to take off your glasses, everything is well tuned in them.
Do they send cash on delivery to Gomel?
Good afternoon, did anyone use such a lens that you can say good / bad about it?
People tell me who used a cleaning pencil, how much is it enough?
I think depending on how often you wipe the lenses. I rarely use it for more than 3 years.
You can use soot from smoked glass on a cotton swab and the effect will be the same :)
In principle, for a long time, if there are not many lenses. One pencil is enough for me for 2-3 treatments of all of my optics (about 50 glasses). He also wiping all the protective filters (pieces 25-30). Then the effect is already lost, you have to buy a new one. But I don’t really worry about lens cleaning, so far only a second pencil works for me.
You cannot with cotton wool, it scratches. Cleaning pencils are for lenses with a concave surface, there are for flat filters. They are not interchangeable, spend on both, enough for a long time.
Friends, do not wipe the lenses with a pencil, everything that sticks to it (dust, sand, etc.) will be like an abrasive surface.
You need to clean the lenses only with a microfiber cloth moistened with clean water and well wrung out, and wipe dry with the same cloth only dry. And clean the rest of the equipment in the same way.
I fully support you in this survey! I had a set of different microfiber rags for a long time, and I began to wipe the optics with them. The result is very positive, although I carry a "pencil" in reserve! So I think - one thing, the other is not a hindrance!
Thank you all for your advice.
Please tell me, is there a difference between the adapter rings MD-MAF and MD-MA? If so, what is it? Thanks.
The people, and does anyone have experience in the so-called adjustment in the service?
I already wrote above about my problems with autofocus at different focusing distances, I want to take at least the carcass to the service. With different glasses, the carcass behaves completely differently (somewhere back-focus, somewhere front-focus, somewhere it hits only from a close distance). If I bring a carcass and several lenses to the service, what is the chance of getting an acceptable result with all lenses? Or is it better to bring only one lens with the carcass (favorite, or the most problematic)? I have already expired the off-warranty (1 + 1) - in this case, they will ask me to pay for the carcass and for each lens? Or how is it usually going there? Lenses Tamron and Sigma, I suppose, it makes no sense to drag Nikon's authorized service? Tell someone about your experience in alignment - what did you get at the output, how much did it cost, how long did it take, is it possible to do the alignment in an unauthorized service, is there a danger that everything will worsen as a result?
I wore Nikon to my native service in Moscow ... 2nd Syromyatnichesky lane, 1 ... two carcasses D7000, D7100 and two glasses 18-140 and 18-200 ... set up normally and quickly ... I handed it over in the morning, took it at lunchtime .... The warranty software is free, after the warranty it is paid, but the price is reasonable ...
Hello Dear! Perhaps such a question has already been asked and I skipped it, but still I will ask it, if you will! HOW TO UNDERSTAND SUCH CONCEPT AS “STOP” s? This is me talking about the ratio of exposure parameters when changing them ... How to change the SHUTTER SPEED when changing the IRIS, ISO or vice versa. I understand that these values are not linearly dependent on each other. I can't understand their ratio ... :( Maybe there is some kind of saying (like "every hunter ...") or an associative phrase to remember this ratio? I watched a bunch of videos, read several articles and finally got confused ... even on a smart program I downloaded it, but I can't understand the “physics of the process”! Help please! Thank you in advance!
I understand feet as a series of diaphragm numbers that change the amount of light passing through the lens by 2 times. Namely F1; 1,4; 2; 2,8; 4; 5,6; 8 onwards n * 1,4. Or (n-1) * 2. It is clear that by changing the shutter speed or ISO twice the amount of light also doubles.
And can a couple of examples in numbers for clarity ?! So far, no fig!
If the shutter speed is halved, i.e. one stop, for example, from 1/60 to 1/125, then to maintain the same exposure, it is necessary to open the aperture twice as well, i.e. one stop, for example, from f / 4 to f / 2.8 with constant ISO. A number of diaphragms with one-stop increments have been written to you, a series of diaphragms with one-stop increments: 100,200,400,800,1600,3200, etc. A series of shutter speeds in steps of stop: 1,1 / 2,1 / 4,1 / 8,1 / 15,1 / 30,1 / 60,1 / 125,1 / 250,1 / 500,1 / 1000 and t .d.
Thank God! At least someone "complicated" explained simply! THANK YOU SO MUCH! I almost broke my head!
You are there, the starry sky managed to photograph
By the method of poke and chuyka :) In vain trying to prick! Maybe I have little experience, but stubborn! Set a task - I will do it!
Chuikoy! In vain, offend offend!
Arkady, friends, hello everyone again.
I have been shooting for a long time on the Nik-f100 and Nik-f6, for the Nik-f100 I bought the SB-28, with the flash I shoot very rarely. Recently I bought Nik-Df thanks to its frenzied ISO, however, sometimes it is necessary to highlight and freeze a dynamic scene on it.
Question:
With modern flashes, everything is clear, but does anyone know under what settings Nik-Df will work correctly with SB-28? I shoot either puff on the ceiling with a softbox on the flash, or, if further away - on the forehead and also with a softbox on the flash.
Thank you.
Has anyone ever been to make an expodisk following the example http://club.dns-shop.ru/forum/?action=thread&id=48673.У Unfortunately, I didn’t have a coffee filter. I made rolltan out of good reviews from the lid, the result was not impressive, Dove