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Question to the pros of photography. How to correctly photograph a beautiful openwork fence? I see it, it is very interesting, I take pictures ... And as a result, the bars of the fence merge with the background (unfortunately, not always uniform) and in the photo there is some kind of jumble of twigs / sticks.
They would show a photo, it would be clearer what is wrong.
Here's a shot, for example ...
Here is an example of such a frame.
So DOF should be smaller, so :) And so that the perspective does not distort - choose a telephoto. So it turns out that the conditional 135/2 will do, probably. Only now will have to retreat far. But this is if the task is to take a picture in this particular perspective, otherwise you can think of more interesting things for an artist)
Sergey, everything is sharp in your picture, even the house is far away, what was the picture taken for? Here, IMHO, either shoot a portrait in the style of a smart phone to wash everything from behind, or a full-frame photo with a bright lens. P.S. I tried to shoot a fifty-fifty meter on the FF tree from 1,8 meters, the background starts to wash from 5-15 meters. It would be programmatically eroding, if there is one, I don’t own it.
N. D7500 camera, DX 35 / 1.8G lens (I like this lens and practically don't take it off). I already realized my mistake - I did not take into account the depth of field. Thanks for the tips / hints, I will study further.
And yet, the aperture was 1,8, but the blur rate did not work out ...
From such a distance it will not work) 35 quickly goes to infinity
With aperture 1.8, there will be normal blur, but for a 35 mm lens from a fairly close distance to the subject. Experiment by removing the fence from different distances to it and see for yourself.
A chat of this kind is very useful. Thanks again to everyone.
-If your pictures are not good enough, then you were not close enough.
Robert Capa (s)
shoot at 200mm 2.8, everything behind will be blurred in the trash
>> How to correctly photograph a beautiful openwork fence? - See also what kind of lighting there is at different times. Maybe the sun will illuminate the fence in some interesting way, maybe illuminate it yourself with a flash (while the background will remain dark).
And I would remove only the central outlet. It will be more interesting and easier in terms of blurring the background.
Guys, what kind of camera from Nikon has the function of “shooting with focus shift”. Thanks.
no cheap. no Nikon DSLR has such a function.
PENTAX K1 has it for sure
What for? If you shoot with AF, then I don't see much sense. If you shoot macro (for stitching the stack according to depth of field), then it is better to do it yourself, and even better - using macro rails. With manual optics, when shooting handheld, just move the body a little back and forth (to get focusing in different places) and shoot 3-5-7 frames in series ...
Designate your tasks?
Yes, for macro, there are macro rails, lenses and tripods and other stray. For a stack, 3-7 frames are very few, 20-30 yes, almost the norm, but not always and everywhere.
I think helicon focus will save you)
There is such a thing!
It depends on what macro ...
So what's stopping you from moving along the rails and shooting in series? (on the other hand, it is advisable to use a mirror lift). Or, you can turn on time-lapse photography and move the camera / focus between shots
Nothing interferes, only I did not move the device along the rails, but changed the focal length with the lens.
Or do you mean 'tracking focus'? If yes, then all Nikons have this function, but it works very well starting with the D7100 (perhaps I did not use the d7000 yet, but according to reviews there are complaints about the AF operation of this camera)
Yes, that's right, I made a little mistake in the wording. There is such a function in 850 and several other devices.
If we are talking about focus bracketing, then Nikon does not know how. Kenon has ML firmware for such tasks. Well, if it is needed for macro, then they said correctly below that macro rails are needed.
Friends, there is the task of making a fixed circular aperture with a hole of about F5,6 in the fisheye lens, throwing out the native iris diaphragm (do not ask why))).
But here a few questions arose. What material to use for this, what thickness, what smoothness? In theory, all of these things will affect image quality. And so far it has not been possible to find material similar to the one from which the factory iris diaphragm is made.
Any thoughts on this? Or maybe there are sources where you can study the materiel?
Any black matte and thinner
thin blackened foil. the hole should be perfectly round. the edges of the foil around the hole are completely flat. and blackening of the ends of this very hole is obligatory. all these features can be read in any article about using pinhole.
It should not be perfectly round, Dmitry, do not believe it. Iris native is not perfectly round. This is not a pinhole.
The shape of the diaphragm will affect the shape of the bokeh. But considering that this is a fisheye and a hole in 5.6 ... Well, honestly.
Good afternoon or evening
I have a nikon d5100, I got the idea to sell it and buy a nikon d300s or d5200.
What is better to do?
Help advice
it makes sense on the D7100 or d7200
The D300s is a great reliable reporting camera.
Or is it better to take the d7000?
The 7000th series will definitely be better than the 5200, etc. The 300th is also in most characteristics. The question is what exactly prompted you to think about replacing the camera, what does not suit you, what are the tasks.
We need a more reliable camera so that for centuries,
And the functionality as well as ergonomics were not bad
If you need a camera that “for centuries” and that will outlive Putin, you need to look at the missile defense line - D3s, D4, D4s, D5, or a variant from Canon: 1Dx, 1Dx mk2, 1Dx mk3.
On Avito, there are both those and other cameras with a range of 600-800 thousand. And I have already seen 1DX a couple of times with a mileage of a million frames. And nothing ... they looked clearly better than d200 or d700 after 100-150 thousand frames.
And if you consider between d7000 and d300s?
I would choose the D7000, the matrix there is the same as that of the D5100, so do not expect better image quality. Personally, I took the D5100 after the D7100 and was very pleased.
D7000 will make a little less noise at high ISO + higher resolution matrix. There are complaints about the D7000 AF system (one of the reasons why I chose the D7100). D7000 is slightly lighter than the D300
D3s to buy. Really. she’s not so expensive now.
for centuries - units from kenon. survive everything and everyone.
There is a desire to print individual photos
on paper 20x30 cm. About 100 pieces are typed.
You can watch them without any
devices and anytime. But I want the deadline
storing pictures in the album was about 30 years old.
Ordinary pictures standing on a shelf in a frame,
after a few years they fade.
I called in the darkroom. The price spread is six times and
with a shelf life everything is muddy.
I ask members of the forum to express thoughts about paper, ink for the printer,
printing system and other subtleties.
Podolsk.M.O
Ask for Wet-developing OPTICAL prints. In my experience, they are quite persistent (there are ten to twelve years ago, the condition is normal).
Of the complaints about the “wet” method, I recall only a relatively low print resolution (~ 300dpi), but not very stable, slightly “floating” from load to load of the printing machine density and color rendition (apparently, they strongly depend on the quality and temperature of the chemical solutions used) ... Don't even look in the direction of inkjet printers - prints from them fade in a matter of months!
On normal paper (Lomond, ColorWay) and mid-price inks (NOT the cheapest WWM type slops) prints in the album have been perfectly stored for more than 10 years.
If framed without direct sunlight, the color remains acceptable for 2-4 years.
But the quality of 'wet printing' has dropped dramatically with the massive appearance of digital devices, since now they print an order of magnitude less. I don’t know how things are in the capitals, but two years ago I didn’t find a normal lab in the industrial regional center (3 films were ruined in three labs).
I continue to print the best digital photographs and the quality of the prints is higher compared to negative film. In this connection, I print digital photographs in the so-called “wedding” format - 15X20, 15X22.
So far, everything is in order with the development of films in Moscow. For high-quality work there is “Photoproject” and “FOTOLAB”. Negative films are developed in many places. The positive ones, as I was told, are taken to one place, to one developer. At the end of August last year, I handed over two slide films just before the very same developer went on vacation. 10 years ago, Mosfilm had a service for developing positive film, I don't know if there is now.
They write on the Photoproject and Photolab that they are using the photochemical printing process (the traditional chemical photoprocess for processing color photo paper according to the RA-4 process).
The 100 year old photographs were in a 'silver' process. There is nothing to fade, in general, except that the paper and / or the gelatinous coating turns yellow.
Our family archive has a photo album with photos that were printed over 90 years ago. Nothing happened to them. In the photo album, photographs are well preserved, which can not be said about the prints that are in the light, the reason is ultraviolet radiation, which affects the colors. If you do not print on a home printer, but use the services of photo laboratories, then the quality of the prints is guaranteed for 100 years (for example https://www.fotoproekt.ru/pechat-fotografij/format-a4/) Also, for large format printing (for example, a poster on the wall), this laboratory offers a lamination service to protect against UV radiation (http://rasf2.fotoproekt.ru/port/msk/ru/service/finish/).
About 100 years - this is an advertisement from Fuja
Sublimation ink can last 30 years, and that's not a fact. Well, that is, something will remain on paper ...
Or subtractive (sort of like that?) Print.
Precisely hold b / w photos on the 'silver' process. There are photos of parents of very decent quality from the 80s. But the color photos printed in the early 90s - clearly lost in color rendition.
There is only one conclusion: for one hundred percent preservation, you also need to store the 'negative' (by the way, even color negatives from the 90s were preserved better than a photo).
The main thing with 'digital' is to rewrite it on modern media on time.
I would like to share my experience a little
About 2 years ago, my son and I bought a good Canon Pro10 photo printer, which allows you to print 13 ″ x19 ″ (33x48cm) photos, and this became a decisive link not only when taking photos, but also taking photos - always ask yourself: “And you will you print it (taking into account the price of a good “Hahnemühle” (very good) paper and ink)? ” It usually works very sobering. As a result - huge time savings and disposal of garbage on hard.
Using original ink, manufacturers swear on a 100-year shelf life (I don’t know how they checked it :)
"The great news is that the Lucia inks were rated to approximately 100+ years for colorfastness, meaning no fading or other degradation of the print." - kyanon website
Try printing photos yourself. Prices for this particular printer have fallen strongly (600 CAD).
PS The son and his girlfriend recently opened their site, go visit:
https://www.interval-illusions.com/
Sorry, the site is only in English.
Professional slide film disciplines in the same way. Occupation is not cheap, you think through each frame. And at the present time, the Central Control Commission helps significantly. First, you take a frame on it, look, analyze whether it is worth shooting the same frame on a slide.
How does mp work on the matrix of the camera if you specify a photo size in the settings, for example, less than 4 times. Will neighboring mp merge into 1 or will only 1/4 of the matrix size work?
On the vast majority of cameras, shooting will always occur at the expense of all pixels on the entire sensor, after which the resulting image will be reduced by 4 times programmatically and encoded in JPEG with the selected quality.
They are trying to introduce pixel combining on smartphones, on cameras, practically no one has such a function.
Thanks for the answer. It is a pity that the programmers are not itching or Companies.
Hello! I am the owner
Hello! I am the owner of a Nikon D3200 camera ... I want to get off the whale lens, because it does not pull indoors, but I want it to be quite versatile, I tend to 35 1.8 AF-S G or 50 1.8 AF-S G, as I read a lot of reviews and opinions ... but I wonder if both of them are worth having or is it better to consider something else. From needs: I would like to photograph my daughter))
Buy a flash.
+100500 and flash to the ceiling.
If the child is mobile, then the flash will increase the number of sharp frames by an order of magnitude. And you can cover the diaphragm to reduce the optical imperfections of the dark.
50 mm on the crop is not comfortable indoors. There will be a constant lack of space. 35 mm is better, but not wide enough for ordinary apartments)
What am I talking about. You need to understand who asks and what. Pokemon's answer is certainly useful, but I'm afraid not for Anastasia
Why?
“I want to get off the whale lens, because it doesn’t pull indoors, but I want it to be quite versatile”
The 3 aperture lenses listed by me below are quite universal for almost all occasions.
35 / 1.8 or 50 / 1.8 are not particularly universal and Anastasia will soon understand this.
It's not about universality. A flash will be cheaper than even a single 35 / 1.8. At the same time, its regular lens will give quite decent results. You offer solutions for an advanced photographer. And not the fact that on aperture 2.8 in home lighting, she will not have “blurry” photographs of the child.
Sigma 17-50 / 2.8
Sigma 18-35 / 1.8
Tokina 16-50 / 2.8
Before buying, check the operation of autofocus on all focal points, especially on the open aperture.
“Out of needs: I would like to take pictures of my daughter))” ”, since he doesn’t pull indoors,” Is the daughter a small child or already a schoolgirl? This is dynamic or portrait photography. What is lacking in the room - light, angle, distance? This is a small child, then the flash is desirable. If this is a portrait, then you can get by with whale ones, but you need a tripod. The versatility of the lens will require good money, and this versatility will not always be present. Pokemon gave three options, but there is a "but" ... To give advice, you need to know the shooting conditions.
well, yes, this is a small child .. maybe I am of course a handshake)) but when I photograph at home, then 1) the quality is not always clear, i.e. there is blur and 2) graininess is clearly visible ... 3) when there is a photo with a flash, the one that is built into the camera, then the picture is not very good at once, all the curves and irregular features of people are revealed. Of course, the main goal is a photo for yourself, a photo on trips and in the country ... but I also understand that 35 and 50 are still fixes, and not entirely universal. 50 is a portrait with insanely beautiful bokeh, and 35 can be removed at home with a narrow room ... I also read about 85 ... in general, I just want everything ... but how to choose the right one ... with a whale film perfectly removed on the street ... but not at home, unfortunately ..
1) the quality is not always clear, i.e. blur is present
the auto focus of an amateur camera cannot precisely focus on a moving subject, and even in the dark.
2) the granularity is clearly visible ...
and don’t need to raise the ISO so much, it’s not prof. camera.
3) when there is a photo with a flash, the one that is built into the camera, then immediately the picture is not very
of course, it should be so. light needs to be scattered. and it’s better to use an external flash.
In any place where there is not enough light, the camera is forced to shoot at long exposures - to expose the frame for a long time, up to a second. And since you shoot without a tripod, this is a characteristic blur in the photographs: a person cannot hold the camera even for half a second still, without hand tremors.
"Grain" for the same reason: the camera measures the illumination of the scene, and when there is a lack of light, it is forced to increase the sensitivity - ISO. For Nikon 3200, abundant "grain" appears in photos at ISO 1600.
For half-length portraits - indoors - I would choose a lens from 50mm focal length (in the case of your Nikon). For full-length shooting of a moving child - something in the region of 35 mm.
then another question: what flash to take?
Better "family" Nikon. The Best for amateur use is the SB-700. Further, in descending order, the 500th, 400th and 300th. Arkady has all the reviews (except the last). The main thing is to turn the flash head to the ceiling, or use a light reflective card. Set the TTL auto mode in the settings so that the flash metering and flash output adjustment are automatic. Well, set the red-eye reduction mode.
About SB-600 did not mention. It has long been discontinued, but is present in the secondary market. The level is intermediate between the 500th and 700th.
Anastasia, read the article by Arkady: https://radojuva.com/2013/02/flash-external-for-what/
Thank you very much, Ivan! sure to read.
Anastasia, Ivan very aptly said about a flash directed upward: the light will thus be reflected from a white surface, without making the child's face (for example) overexposed. Plus, the target (the child) will not be afraid of this very flash - a bright light, and cover his eyes at the moment of shooting.
By the choice of the flash and Arkady's article - also to the point.
On my own I will add, in the block of articles - it is on the upper right - after the article on using external flashes, read materials 3, 2 and 20 - probably in this order. Also, if you get involved, 4, 7 and 10 can clarify important points.
And again, if you get involved, for stationary subjects (portraits), I really like mode A (Aperture Priority). For all sorts of squirrels, running hounds, sprinters and children - S (Shutter Priority).
Stay with those articles - the camera will become a bit closer for you. And the photography technique is clearer. And with experience comes confidence.
thank you very much! will have to try ...
Anastasia, I would advise you to look at the GODOX TT685 flash ... It is produced for various systems, in terms of functionality it is not inferior to the “native” ones (Nikon / Canon ...), but much cheaper. And with the prospect for the future, too, is normal.
It seems to me that you take pictures on "Auto"? If so, then neither changing the lens nor buying a flash will help you. You need to set the "pimple" on the camera to the "M" position, make the necessary camera settings in the menu, set it to camera flash, adjust the flash and only then can we talk about the quality of photos.
As I understand it, you are a young mother and you have a long and difficult life of a photographer ahead of you - shooting a child at home, on the street, in a kindergarten at a matinee, at school ... The birth of a second ... And again all over again ... What would I do, arriving in such a situation ? I would buy an SB-910 flash. And not a used one, but a new one, since the road ahead of a photographer is long and difficult. And then, when you "run up" (in the best sense of this word) with your whale, you can look in side of "generalists", but believe me, they are not.
What mode is M, if a person takes a picture on the machine. At least complete the instructions, watch video tutorials on youtube. Then, in M mode, none of those who shoot reports and sports or animals or children for a long time do not shoot.
You can also put “A” -shka - I don't care what to shoot. But she with a flash - “M” -ka just right. When shooting in other modes - there is a problem with setting a short shutter speed. Shooting in the “automatic”, no the ability to understand the relationship between the settings. Only the transition to manual control of the camera settings will make it possible to understand all these photo wisdom.
Basil, do not mislead the girl. All automatic modes for that came to photographic equipment to make life easier for photographers. Who wants to, let him shoot in manual mode.
I’m shooting chir-girls, only mode M, because the camera can make mistakes with exposure when quickly changing the position of objects in the frame.
And that is, you want to say that you can take super photos with a whale lens, having just an external flash? And if not such a flash 910, but cheaper, then what advise?
Dear Vasily and Pokemon! I am wildly sorry, of course, but why did you decide that I "pimp", the so-called mode dial, put on the "letter" AUTO ?! By the way, I try different options ... but if there were fewer too smart ones, and more knowledgeable and good explanations, then everything would be much simpler.
Yes, you are right - there are mostly smart and abstruse people here. It is almost impossible to navigate in their dialogue if there is not enough knowledge and experience. But I have not seen the best overview photo of the site. And, in spite of everything, there is already a positive result - You turned towards the flash. Now decide which flash to take - and you can start “bombing” the photos.
Do not rely on “… to take a super photo with a whale lens.” The super quality of photos, first of all, does not depend on the availability of a lens and a flash, but on the presence of a mind predisposed to photography.
There has already been announced a list. I will only add that it is better to take an average flash from Nikon (even BU) than a top Chinese. Of the non-original, I can advise Nissin DI866 - a fairly reliable and high-quality flash, it worked for me at least 50k frames (rather closer to 100k, it's hard to say for sure).
Welcome all. How do you like the Sigma 18-35mm F1.8 DC HSM Art lens? There is no review of him on the joyful.
I’m thinking about buying, but there are so many contradictions that are written about AF, and problems with focus adjustment. Or maybe tell me please a fast wide-angle with a sky-high price.
I also thought about the NIKKOR 20MM F / 1.8G ED as an option, but it is for the full frame. I, given the crop, will be like a 30mm fix.
And this is not quite a wide angle - this is the only thing that stops me from buying this particular glass.
There are a lot of ideas for shooting, only technology limits (I would like to shoot stars, landscapes at any time of the day, indoors shooting)
I have a Nikon D5600 Nikkor 18-140 f3,5 ED VR and Nikkor 50mm 1,8G.
PS - I would like to additionally hear the opinion of Arkady
Thanks in advance :)
The review is getting ready, the lens is standing.
Super. I am pleased to read)
about this glass is written on every second Internet fence. bright and sharp. on some kenons there is a problem with AF, on nikons I did not notice this. You can always buy a docking station and adjust everything yourself.
But tell me, boyar, do you need a detailed description of how to focus on manual glasses on a canon using a magic flashlight? I have described it on other resources more than once, I don’t remember, maybe I threw it at you. if necessary, I’ll write, and you’ll paste somewhere in the right place on your site.
Yes of course. And the more beautiful the text of the description, the easier and more useful it will be for all users of magic laterna and manuals
Install Magic Lantern, then make these settings
[Overlay]
Global Draw -> on, all modes
Focus Peak -> on, 0.5, Y, gray
everything else off
[Display]
Lv DIGIC Peaking -> Slightly Sharper
everything else by default
[prefs]
Image Review Settings -> Quick Zoom -> SinglePress -> 100%
LiveView Zoom Tweaks -> all items are on except the last one
everything else by default
Then we turn on Live View, we see a black and white picture, on it there will be yellow dots
an EXAMPLE focus area is indicated (if desired, you can enable a color picture and
change the color of the dots highlighting the focus area, however the black and white picture is more
It’s convenient, since it shows better light and shadow, and the highlight points of the focus area, and
color does not distract from accurate focusing). Focus around where you need to.
then OR press the shutter button halfway OR the AF ON button and see the enlarged one,
sharp and contrasting image at the focal point (the increase in contrast and sharpness is done in hardware, this allows you to extremely accurately focus on cilia or some other small details). Carefully bring the focus and shoot. When RELEASING the button of the above image size is automatically returned to the original, which allows you to check the correct cropping. Thus, the whole process can be carried out with one single button (or two who are more used to anything).
In addition, these settings allow you to immediately view the maximum size of a photo when viewing a shot with the [+] button, thereby simplifying focus control in the shot.
Thanks. You need to hide this information somewhere on the site
find where, I'm not very well oriented with you.
if something, in your opinion, is not completely described, ask. I'm an engineer, not a photographer, and so I tried to write as simple as possible)
and, here, I remembered more. somehow wrote, and it seems to you sent, features of switching ISO at kenon. if necessary, I can write again.
Did you find, boyar, where to hide the info? :)
Good info, thanks
Honest people, tell me how to photograph on a Canon RF system using EF-S lenses in full frame, and not at x1,6. I haven’t found such an item anywhere in the menu, but in the framing section the different choices are grayed out (of the type are unavailable for selection), can you somehow activate them?
with a native adapter - no way. Although, maybe someone has already come up with something.
Hello Arkady!
Is it possible to use the nikon sb900 flash as a slave, that is, to set fire to it from the built-in canon 7d flash?
Can. SU-4 mode. Although you can manage a soap box
Well, yes, this is described by Arkady in the sb900 review, but it is described as a difficult process even for a professional, so it probably will not work.
I thought something simpler.
Um ... 'hard process'?
I do not understand what is difficult in manually setting the flash power. In 90% of cases I use just the manual flash mode (therefore, I recently switched to manual yongnuo instead of SB-900 and Nissin-866). Once for the room I picked up the parameters aperture-ISO-flash_power (for the main shooting area) and went to shoot. If you shoot in RAW, there’s no problem at all: 1-2 steps are easily stretched by post-processing, and to get the difference in exposure more than two steps you also need to try: either get very close to the flash, or have a very large room.
PS Of course, for the flash it is worth using a diffuser or reflector - an umbrella, for example
I would like to ask for advice, at the moment there is a Nikon D7100, a whale 18-105mm, a fifty-kopeck F / 1.8 D, as well as the Sigma APO Macro Super 70-300mm (macro at 300) that I just got by accident. I would like to ask which lenses, especially budget ones, are worth looking at in terms of developing your small photo park for shooting, firstly, for all sorts of “near-studio” format of home filming, and secondly, for all sorts of relatively dynamic events like concerts and other performances in not quite gigantic premises, such as concert halls and arenas, and closer to all kinds of clubs.
On flashes, monoblocks, softboxes, backgrounds. The lens in the studio does not greatly affect the result.
I would recommend the Nikon AF-S 28-70mm F2.8D. Newer versions 24-70 and especially with the letter E - supper, of course, but they obviously do not fall into the category of "especially budget".
Anyway, if it drags on, you’ll go to the full frame.
And if there are no such plans, then Nikon 17-55mm f / 2.8G.
It may not be very budgetary, but you will not regret it.
And about the fact that comrade Mikhail writes: "The lens in the studio does not greatly affect the result."
- a very subjective opinion.
Is it completely objective or are you shooting in the studio at 2.8? Well good luck then
Being able to open the aperture to 2.8 or even 1.4 does not mean at all that it SHOULD always be this way. But the quality of the "picture", as a rule, is much higher in such lenses.
And good luck to you
mdja
Mdya, interjection
Meaning:
expression of frustration, regret, thoughtfulness, irony (determined by context).
Do not worry so.
You can even shoot a whale lens. The main thing is that both you and the customers would be satisfied.
Tamron / Sigma 17-50 / 2,8
Hello. I bought a Jupiter-3 lens supposedly without a diaphragm. Well, I think I’ll shoot on a big hole. But as it turned out there is no front lens :( I didn’t immediately notice, because I haven’t seen one before. Tell me please, where can I buy the front lens?
From another of the same lens, for example, pull out. Or find someone repairing old optics
Good day to all!
I'm a noob in photography, just learning.
I bought with my hands an almost new d5200 (6000 + -100 frames were made).
After a while I bought myself a fix of 35 mm.
I photograph mainly items for sale, family, nature.
I ordered a tripod now. Now thinking about the flash. Mega-tricked out for $ 500 + I don’t need.
I choose from among: Godox and Meike.
I have 3 options:
1.Meike Speedlite MK-950II
2.Godox TT685N
3.Godox V860II
The first option is now at a power outlet for very cheap money + a charger as a gift (3200 UAH for everything)
The second has a better filling. More functional. Price 3250+ to 1000 (charger and batteries)
The third has a filling similar to the second, but with a battery. Price 5250.
Tell me what to take better. Or should I pay to some other brands / mogheli?
Sorry for mistakes.
"Or should you pay attention to some other brands / models?"
I use Nikon SB-800. Long. A month ago on EBAYe I bought a second one for 170 Canadian rubles - as Google says it is about UAH 3,280.38.
Triopo interesting flash with Ali.
There's the Triopo TR-586EX - a very unstable flash with a confusing menu.
What is “instability” expressed?
The frame is normal, the next frame - for example, overexposure, the next two, for example - under-light. And so it is constantly, there is no stability, no predictability of the result. Yes, with Nikon SB-900 and Nissin Di-866 the camera also sometimes 'makes mistakes', but this is 1-2 frames per hundred. And with Triopo from 30 to 50% of the marriage. And this is in more or less stable conditions. In the presence of a backlight with Triopo, you can't squeeze out anything at all - it works as you please.
Thank you for the answer and clarification, but maybe you had such a single copy? I haven’t noticed this on my own, I take pictures of insects in nature and use the flash only to illuminate objects, and it’s not so often in my work.
Perhaps - and a copy, but from others I heard about the same reviews about Triopo.
In TTL I shot in relatively large and dark rooms, where the flash was actually the main source of illumination, i.e. a relatively simple situation for camera automation (without backlighting, bright sources in the frame, etc.) And the spread is precisely in the same series: approximately the same distance, the same situation, the same people in the frame. Therefore, the flash has been lying on the bench for a year spare ...
The same Nissin Di866_markII worked a lot of contests without complaints (from about 50 to 100k), and there were no such problems with it.
Money thrown away. I bought a daughter. The flash failed on the third day of use. At first it began to work after two for the third time, then it was generally bent. Bought Yongnuo-568 III. No complaints. I have been using 568-II for five years. Never failed!
This is about Triopo TR-586EX
"Yongnuo-568 III"? It seems like the latest version is Yongnuo-568 II.
YT568NII arrived recently. Shoots well directly. When trying to shoot at the ceiling (with or without a white card), there is a lack of light by 2-2,5 steps (apartment, low white ceilings).
If you need TTL, then it's better native to Nikon (SB-700, for example), I can also recommend Nissin Di866.
For shooting subjects, TTL is not needed - once the power is selected and you shoot.
For flashes with manual power setting, I can recommend Yongnuo Yn-560-III, Yn-560-IV and a synchronizer - RF-603N-II.
PS I sell 2pcs. new Yn-560-IV on OLX for 3400 UAH (per pair), if you write that from Radozhiva I will make a small discount.
For myself, I recently took the GODOX TT685 due to the presence of a built-in radio synchronizer. And I think it will come in handy for home shooting of a subject.
Guys, tell the noob, when viewing ARWs with Sony A7s they are ~ 2MP (as I understand this is a built-in preview), and the pictures themselves are 12MP, as you know. Is it possible to somehow configure so that when ARW is opened, there is a preview size in all 12 MP, well, or at least 10, otherwise it is inconvenient to see if the focus is on the eyes or somewhere else or not. Of course you can shoot RAW + JPG, but why ...
What are you looking at? Through Fast Stone RAWs with Nikon, Canon, Sony, I can normally see in full size. In the settings you need to specify the necessary file formats.
Either through it, or through a regular Windows viewer. There were no such problems with Canon. Perhaps you have more than 12 megapixels on the camera and, therefore, there are no such problems (if the preview compression is percentage-based), although as practice shows, all cameras even have the same line of different RAWs
To be boring, there are as many as three images in a RAW file - exactly what is in RAW, and two in EXIF - there is a built-in full-size JPEG, which, in turn, has a built-in preview. On cameras of different systems, the sizes of these embedded files and their compression may differ, but they are there anyway. All this must be taken into account when viewing.
Ok, ATP for the hint, removed the tick “built-in thumbnail”
Good morning everyone / day! I saw a Helikon macro adapter 35-90 mm and I don’t know what goals / tasks it is for. Maybe someone knows to explain.
Photo adapter or link.
http://ali.pub/4oejv0
It was expressed almost like this: for lenses with which focal length?
I think with some fifty dollars on the M42 it will be fine to replace a set of extension rings from 35mm to 90mm.
Good day, please suggest the price - Nikon d 90 18-105 with mileage 6500 - seemingly normal - for 15 rubles. -?
Sincerely.
Not cheap, it happens for 12, look for yourself on Avito, incl. in other cities.
15k was requested for d300s.
d7000 is also a lot on Avito with low runs in good condition for 16-20 thousand rubles.
how to distinguish MS Helios-44m-6 from MS Helios-44m-7
by the inscription near the front lens
I'm trying to install a Jupiter-37A lens on a Canon EOS-M50 camera through an adapter ring.
Everything is set, regulated, but when you press the shutter button, the shooting does not take place. Why?
In the menu you need to find and allow "Release shutter without lens"
Arkady, do you plan to create a flea market section where you could sell or buy everything related to photography?
There are specialized resources: OLH, Avito, groups in social networks, etc.
Here in its current form (comments) it will be inconvenient. To make it convenient - you need to write and integrate a separate module, moderate ads. It seems to me that Arkady already has something to do.
Good afternoon. My question is quite primitive for professionals, but I myself can’t deal with it (I’m a completely green lover). Need an inexpensive lens for shooting indoors clothing on a mannequin in full growth (2 meters). The distance to the object is 3- 3.5 meters. Nikon d90 camera, there are 2 lenses: the standard nikkor 18-55mm and nikkor 50 mm. thank
And with those lenses that you have in stock, you can’t remove the mannequin?
Here, rather, the question is not in the lens, but in the proper lighting. This is a big topic, you can’t describe it in a nutshell.
There are no special lenses for shooting clothes, as far as I know. With a fifty dollars, a growth figure from three meters in the frame does not fit, shoot on a regular one. I think that FR of 30 millimeters will be enough. Good light and winning angles are more important here, so that clothes show in all their glory
Approach a mannequin as a portrait in a studio, with all the relevant rules. A monophonic background is desirable, it is possible white, and pulsed light: two racks with umbrellas and flashes, can be cheap and synchronizers. I understand that this may seem complicated and incomprehensible to you, but it is not very expensive and gives a predictable, repeatable result from shooting to shooting, regardless of the lighting from the window. Once set up and shoot at least for a thousand-page catalog.
Hello! Tell me, on a camera with new multi-pixel arrays (I have a Nikon D7500, 21 megapixels), which is better to take - Tokin 11-20, or 11-16 2.8 II? Will there be a noticeable difference in image quality (except for focal) between them? There is an option 11-16 2.8 II at a good price, so I think it's worth overpaying. Previously, I noticed that Sigma 17-50 2.8, which on the 7000th model gave a good result, on the 7500 is not that soapy (.
Thanks in advance for your reply.
Hello! I choose between D5100 with sigma 18-100 and D3100 with whale + Nikkorov fifty fifty g.
Both used the first option is cheaper than the second kind of less poyuzanny
But I am for the quality of the picture, from whom will it be better to extract it?
Beginner, but I want to do something thoroughly, I love macro photography
If you mean Sigma 18-200, then the second set is better (whale + fifty dollars).
Oh yes, 18-200
Thank you!
If nikon, then NOT series 3xxx and 5xxx, these are frankly amateur soap dishes with no ergonomics and cut off "self-service" functionality ...
You are wrong. These series are far from soap dishes and for beginners just right.
I myself give the beginners 5D MkII or D300s, who prefers what. And sometimes units. It is much more convenient with them.