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Good day. There is a Helios 44m4. I want to try to shoot a portrait on Nikon 5100. If you use an adapter without a lens, then what is the focus distance? Or all the same, we need a box. lens?
Head and shoulders will fit. Here it is approximately:
Thanks. That's what I want. I read that using cor. Lens quality is lost but there is the possibility of focusing on infinity. But for a portrait, as I understand it, is infinity and don’t need that?
Without an adapter, infinity ends at about 2 meters. A cheap adapter with a lens STRONGLY spoils the picture, an adapter with a good lens is comparable with the lens, it is better to redo the lens.
Here I am about that. But I won’t be able to remake it myself, but to give it to someone, I don’t even know to whom. Probably I’ll try without a lens, and there it will be seen.
Good evening. I ask for your advice. I want to buy an external flash for home use on the nikon d 5100. The choice between the food and the analogue. Here and there my paths diverged and I do not know what to look at.
Look at the sb400 - cheap, compact, reliable.
Hello Arkady. I would like to know your pro opinion on the Tamron 35-150mm f / 2.8-4 Di VC OSD Lens for Nikon. I want to purchase and use the Nikon D7100 as a telephoto zoom lens on my crop camera.
Thank you Sergey
After 2 shots on the street, you will understand that telephoto does not smell here. even aperture will not save. I use nikkor 7100-70 300-4.5 ED VR (for ff) with the D5.6 and sometimes it seems a little. And aperture of 70-300 is covered by an excellent stub.
and yet, despite the fact that 70-300 for a full frame, then on the crop the image is taken from the center of the lens. I think there is no need to comment.
Hello. I have an old huge (20kg) sanyo plc 700me projector and it has a giant lens. Tell me, is it worth bothering with its limit for mounting under a modern camera and will it make an intelligent lens for mirrorless? (For ebay, such lenses are sold for some reason very expensively .. maybe the bourgeoisie mastered their conversion to a photo?) Thank you all!
Good afternoon. How to cancel the newsletter from this site?
In the letters, at the end, there is a link to the reply
There is a Nikon D3500 + AF-P 18-55 camera (a new kit with adaptation for video shooting), but there is no review here. Arkady, are you interested in a reader's review with examples of photos and videos?
Good evening everyone.
Who has canon cameras, tell me - can you see the frame counter directly in the camera? Specifically in Canon 7D. In order not to bother with the computer. They say that it is possible, but how exactly?
Hello Arkady!
Can I see the frame counter on the Canon 7D? One seller sent this photo
it is with magic lantern custom firmware
Thanks, Arkady.
Hello! I came across a Nikon D4 camera. The owner wants 600 euros for him. Number of 136000 shots. There is only one problem, the pin for fixing the lens on the camera is broken. I checked the quality of photographing today. The question arises: is it worth taking and how long has it been quoted, like a real professional camera? The number of megapixels is only 16 megapixels. The owner himself switched to the Nikon D850. I think I’ll do the pin myself or build up or completely replace it. The pin mechanism itself comes with a block of mirrors, and this at the moment is only 300 euros on Aliexpress.
I can't figure it out in any way, my sister gave me the old canon D5 mark II, the camera had been used a lot already, the mileage was 225553 in the studio and at weddings, but it seemed to work :) I took several trial frames with different lenses (50 mm, 24-70 canon) and noticed that on ISO 200-400, when processing in the shadows, a strong noise comes out. When raising shadows or exposure in the raw editor by several levels, this is hard to see. Shoveled the entire Internet there are no similar requests. I'm not a specialist in aging cameras, but I don't technically boast of a special mind, before that I was friends with the Nikon D3200 for a long time, such noises are absent there at 400 or even 800 iso and if there is something they can easily be corrected in a RAW converter which is imperceptible with the canon 5d mark II then it looks “clumsy”, stripes are noticeable. Maybe clever people will tell me what the problem is why there are terrible noises on iso 200 f1.8 1/25 sec or iso 200 f2 1/20 sec when processing shadows? Could this be a consequence of the killed matrix due to the high mileage and you just need to say goodbye to the canon by throwing it to hell, or is it my curvature and lack of education and can I fix something?
Well, depending on how you edit the shadows. Usually, during normal exposure, you don’t need to pull them into several levels, if you have to, it means you either have too much light, or the lighting conditions are bad, there may be pure photon noise - physically there is little light, so 10 photons fall somewhere, 20 somewhere and heterogeneities are noticeable. Do not shoot at night or in the dark in very poor light, few cameras can handle it.
Although if it’s precisely with stripes, and not with grain, it can be a dead matrix by video shooting, for example. Show the pictures, it will be clearer. Well, try to shoot in the afternoon under normal light and pull your two or three steps.
Thank you very much for the answer Roman! Hmm, I did not shoot in the best lighting, I will call it “daylight-cloudy” a little further from the window (the main light source) of the house. Plus, for the first time on FF I photograph something “hand-held”. In the photo with an angel is 200+ at converting to RAW added +1,5 to exposure and +34 to shadows. So I googled everywhere “a photo with a dead matrix” but did not find anything worthwhile, alas. Maybe my examples will be the first :)
Kote iso 400 f2 1 / 5c, the same lighting (in the doorway opposite the window) added +1,50 to the exposure in the RAW converter and +34 in the shadows so that it could be seen. These distortions are visible. The matrix ? Or am I just not understanding ff?
It seems to me that 1/5 is too much. Reset RAW if not hard khleborodov.oleg@gmail.com
Strips. It definitely shouldn’t be so
Thank you Michael for the answer. So the matrix? Probably there is no point in saving, as far as I remember, quite expensively and not always a successful result comes out?
Maybe a matrix - I don't know. Maybe something else gives such a result. You can also try with jpeg chamber to experiment
Hello, however!
Happy owner of Nikon d90.
I bought the same used 50mm 1.4f Nikkor. I felt like a man. There is also a whale 18-105 and Jupiter 37a (thanks to the site for the list of top portraits). The Soviet past is completely delighted, but the lack of af at the moment is very depressing.
Question on 50ke. At f1.4 and f2, the sharpness is rather weak. This is normal? Or did Jupiter spoil me?
Try shooting on open ones with focus through the live-view.
If sharpness improves, then adjustment is required for front-back focus.
Good day.
Thanks for the informative articles, for your Blog. I learned a lot of interesting things from your site.
I am a beginner, only versed in the field of photography. Recently found a pair of cameras, inherited from relatives
An old FED-3M, his time is gone, and I think nothing will work out with him in the near future.
Also, more or less modern Nikon D90 and a pair of lenses. Among them, Jupiter 21M 4/200 without an adapter, tell me if I understood correctly by buying the M42-Nikon F with a chip, you can solve the problem of installing this lens on the D90.
I also found Helios 44M, but with some kind of makeshift ring, it seems to be installed and even works. Can you also put such a ring on it?
You can bet, only there will be no infinity
Since lenses with M42 threads do not fit well with Nikon (only close-up shots, there will be no further focus, and adapters with a lens impair quality), you can consider 2 options: 1) sell lenses with M42 and buy with Nikon mount, for example, Helios 81N or Jupiter 37A, if the tail of KP-A / N is installed on it; 2) sell a Nikon camera, buy a Canon camera, with which the M42 lenses work without restrictions.
Nuances: a) Nikon D90 does not measure exposure with Soviet lenses, you will have to select values by eye, while Canon measures everything, b) on Nikon, when it comes into focus, the indicator in the viewfinder will work, and on Canon, it will not focus only on the eye, or an adapter with a chip, although this is not a panacea, it can overshoot.
Live View Panacea)
Good afternoon!
Tell me pliz which device is better to take consider b,
the teenager’s daughter asks a simple girl mastered. The photo is mostly nature. In this matter, I’m not asking for a hint
consider Nikon D3100 D90 D80
thank you
I'm over 3100 (for a teenage girl then). It would be nice to add a little and take 5100. With any type of lens 18-55 (105).
Thanks found next to sell on Saturday we'll see thanks
Take the D90, it is higher in class than the D3100. And in terms of nothing but the video, no worse. A 24 MP on the D3100 will not solve anything
24 megapixels is already 3200. The difference between the D90 and D5100 is about half a stop in ISO, closely comparing them in medium-bad lighting conditions.
notapicу: This is for you d90 above the class, and "a teenage daughter asks for a simple one" - and 3100 with a head.
Tell me how the Kenon 75-300 ultrasonic lens will behave if you use the K & F Concept Nic - Eos adapter and use it on the Nikon D3200. Sincerely. Valentine
It won't be - this is a reverse adapter. Nikon lens - Canon camera. You can't put on Nikon Canon lenses (at least I've never seen such adapters in nature). On the contrary, you can.
Thanks Michael. The question is cleared.
Hello, Katerina!
Most likely a matrix. At ISOs such as 200 and 400, on the Canon 5D Mark II camera, even if you increase the exposure in the RAW converter by 1,5 steps, there should not be such noticeable noise as in your photographs. Here is an example photo taken at 5D Mark II generally at ISO 6400, followed by an increase in exposure in Lightroom by 0,7. Noises intentionally left as is. As you can see, the noise is noticeable, but uniform throughout the frame.
I just can’t find what kind of lens, please help
99% that it is Helios-44m (or any of 44x) with a wound macro ring.
Good day!
We have a nikon d5100. In stock Helios 81n and Jupiter 37a. When adjusting the aperture ring in Lv mode, the exposure changes, unscrew it by 16, the screen darkens, but then returns to normal, wind it by 2, brightens and immediately aligns to normal. How to treat it, what settings or is it in the device software? With a friend on the kenon, he set the aperture and is displayed on the screen. Thanks!
A closed aperture will darken the JVI image. And also in LV on the monitor when the mode is set to “M”. And when viewing on the monitor in LV in automatic and semi-automatic shooting modes, the device stretches the exposure to the optimal selection of shutter speed or ISO (if auto ISO is on)? which is shown by the monitor connected to the matrix. It should be so.
And you just did not notice the differences in the settings of the two cameras.
Helios and Jupiter manual lenses, the shooting mode, respectively, M. ISO is always at a minimum of 100. There are no dumb ones to confuse the settings of two cameras!
Gennady. I want to say that there are no dumb ones either, and what are Helios and Jupiter sorted out.
I will surprise you, but there are devices that work with manual lenses in any mode and perfectly determine the exposure parameters. Unfortunately, the amateur D5100 really does not know how to do this, so you only have the “M” mode available. I did not take this into account.
As you describe, my monitor works both in semi-automatic mode "A" and in manual mode "M" and this is the correct operation of the device. But my device determines the exposure with manuals. And how the monitor behaves “correctly” on devices where the exposure is not available I cannot say.
But in my opinion it is necessary to bother just the owner of Canon
I do not ask, like others, I am clearly interested in my model.
By the way, a friend has 1100d, he also has a Jupiter, this is for information. I will wait for an adequate answer, not speculation ...
All Canon measure exposure with Soviet lenses, but Nikons 3xxx and 5xxx do not, and this may be the reason. That is, Nikon shows on the screen just a picture, without taking into account the entered values, and Canon already takes them into account, so it darkens or brightens the picture as it will eventually turn out.
Just turned up the opportunity to test the same bunch: 5100 + 81N. On the screen, the picture is the same, no matter how you change the aperture, but the pictures themselves are obtained in different lighting conditions.
So, really, the reason is the lack of exposure metering by this model of the camera with this type of lens. It is necessary to select the iso value, shutter speed and aperture value "by eye" when shooting through live view, or through the optical viewfinder.
Ohoho.
How do you like this answer?
It turns out so it is ... I went through all the settings, the result is zero. But I think who came up with the thread patches or there is a firmware to move away this bug!
PS. I forgot to clarify that in mode A, the monitor's brightness is fully compensated when the aperture is changed from 1,9 to 22, and in mode M, it is partial.
I remembered one more "feature": in the "settings" menu, the brightness of the monitor is AUTO. At manual brightness, the monitor completely repeats the “dimming” as in the OVI when the iris is closed.
I don't have that, just a scale of -3 ... 0 ... + 3.
The 5100 most likely does not have a live image display setting. The advanced ones have several modes, if you don't have them, it means nothing
There was such a thought. Maybe Canon specifically made the matrix a bit smaller than that of Nikon so that you can use the M42 lenses without restrictions? )
It's still easier - the decision to come up with a / 1.6 crop and release amateur cameras with such matrices was dictated by the presence of cameras with a / 1.3 crop in the line ~ i.e. reporting 1D.
Those. so it would be: ff （1Ds）, reporter / 1.3 （1D）, amateur crop / 1.6. To further separate them from each other.
I'm not talking about that, but about the fact that Nikon has a 1,5 crop, and Canon has 1,6.
It’s not the matrix, but the working segment. Nikon has a longer working distance, so the ability to focus at infinity is lost. Kenon clearly did not focus on m-42 lenses, since when creating a new bayonet, he completely abandoned his old FD optics, which was very painful for that period. And helios and Jupiters were clearly not interested in him, just as they were not interested in Nikon.
Hello
Please tell me for Nikon D5100 which fix is needed?
I want to buy Fix but got confused in these letters and numbers. Which one with autofocus
Irina, what are you planning to shoot?
If you are confused in letters and numbers, then maybe the fix is not needed, but is there enough whale zoom to determine your favorite focal?
Whale zoom does not pull. I need to shoot my robots. Namely, felted sculptures in the room. And often he lacks aperture and clarity. They advised fixing 35 to take but there are several varieties of them and I don’t understand which one is the one with autofocus.
Probably you mean which with the motor and for the crop:
https://radojuva.com/2011/03/obzor-nikkor-af-s-35mm-f1-8-dx/
Thank you, yes it is)
I advise you to purchase an external flash. Even an inexpensive one will do (for example, something from Yongnuo). Adds light and clarity. You can use a sheet of white material (paper / cardboard / polystyrene) commensurate with the subject, and reflect flash light from this sheet. Or buy a photo umbrella. The quality of images will increase by an order of magnitude, on a whale lens it will be enough just to cover the aperture.
There is a reflector. The quality of the pictures has become better. But still not perfect. But a flash, too, is necessary.
Get ready for the fact that to shoot the subject, the aperture on the fix will also have to be covered to obtain the necessary depth of field.
Here, direct the flash to the reflector and get enough light to shoot at an acceptable ISO (of course, if you do not need to shoot the Statue of Liberty, you need a little more than one flash :)). Or there are inexpensive studio flash pulsers: the price is comparable to the on-camera ones, the power is several times more and the batteries are not needed, but you need a socket.
Help identify the adapter for the Soligor lens with an SL mount (three wings, one of them small) on Sony
SL? better send a photograph from the bayonet side
Hello, I'm new to this, I have a nikon D90 and the Nikkor 35mm 1: 2.8 Ai / s lens came along with it, I’m shooting like a good shot, but I want it to have autofocus, and here's the question! Should I buy 50mm 1.8? Or take something else?
If you are satisfied with the focal, it is better 35 1.8. Between 50 mm and 35 mm the difference in the angle of view is 1,5 times, this is noticeable, especially when shooting in a confined space, when there is no way to move away. But if there is no question of selling a manual 35 mm, it makes sense to take 50 mm 1.8 and use both lenses as needed.
Good evening everyone !
Canon 7D is offered, it is from Japan, the menu is in Japanese and English. Will it be difficult to understand, especially since the camera is a pro? Or not ? Take? Who had experience, tell me.
Experience with the Nikon D300S is, but in Russian, of course.
Arkady, you also advise.
Can such Japanese cameras be updated by sewing from the canon website?
Well, if only with English so tight) Great difficulties should not arise
Good afternoon.
Friends need help .. I'm a newbie) First, I bought a nicon d60 kit.
I need to shoot pictures, but I need your advice. The camera is blue (((It can change the lens, now it's native. The format of the pictures is from 15x20 (cm) to 2,0x3,0 (m), the color rendition is important. I mostly take pictures on the street in cloudy weather. Maybe pay attention to something .. It's just a problem ... the photo is attached ...
Check white balance. You can shoot in RAW and take at least a sheet of paper before shooting, and then set the white balance for this shot.
Thank you!
Hello!
Tell me, please, what kind of lens is this? The front ring with the inscriptions is missing.
Aperture control rings have never been at all. M42.
Thank you.
Photo
No photo.
The lens?
Hello.
Share how you store your photo archives (format and resolution). thanks
HDD, format, resolution - maximum (original + processing + PSD).
I used to write on DVD-R in duplicate. Some discs of 2007-2010 are already partially unreadable, so storage on DVD is not reliable, at least on “household” discs. At the moment, HDDs are the most reliable and cheapest. If archival storage is planned, then this is a HDD disconnected from the power supply (it can store information for a very long time, unlike SSDs and flash drives).
"Clouds" and other similar services have several significant drawbacks: firstly, at any moment it can disappear (it became an "enemy site", the server was hacked, just glitches, just closed, etc.) - that is, the reliability of saving is questionable ; secondly, there is no 100% guarantee of privacy, and that your photos will not fall into the wrong hands; thirdly, many photo hosting sites squeeze photos, degrading the quality; fourthly, the Internet is needed, but it is not always stable, and at the right time it may not be available ...
It is believed that after a year of storage, the reflectivity of conventional CD / DVD discs noticeably decreases. Because they use aluminum amalgam, which is quite intensively oxidized.
More durable are rims with silver and gold amalgam.
But the most durable and accordingly expensive are platinum discs.
Since the temperature of the sprayed platinum on the carrier exceeds the melting point of acrylic plastic, an artificial sapphire substrate is used. Of course there are none on sale.
Life hack from my own experience.
If you are writing to CD / DVD discs, use a lower speed. This will increase the storage life of the information. Friends, when the drives were “dying”, because of the degradation of the laser, they stopped reading first “self-records”, then branded discs and only then those that I recorded for them.
For storage there are little-known DVD-RAM discs. 15 years and all info read. Unlike all others, it works on the principle of a flash drive or hard drive. You can delete and add files, folders, etc. A little expensive, but it's worth it. Buy only trusted companies.
But it's very difficult to find - once, the cost will be higher than HDD - two, what will you read in ten years? - three. There are already two HDD interfaces for the last 15-20 years: IDE and SATA, that is, you can buy one adapter for all your HDDs.
IDE is already dead.
SATA almost too.
SSDs switch to M2
Yeah, the HDD has been buried for about 5 years, but still. IDE is dead, SATA adapter costs $ 2
There are external portable DVD-RW-RAM drives that work via USB 2 & 3.1. If you buy it and don't drive it every day, then you can use it for 20 years. Even if something changes, it will always be possible to use adapters. Now the most important thing is to live these 10 ... 20 years. And in order to live one must give up corpse food and animal adventures, eggs, butter, etc. Of all that is prohibited, you can drink only kefir for transitional and cleaning. To help books by Arnold Ehret and Vin Hof's methods for starting the immune system.
I'm embarrassed to ask, alcohol is not of cadaveric or animal origin, is it?
Recently, I myself was thinking about storage, consulted with familiar computer experts, the only way out was blue disks. For long storage. Drive about 5tyr. Hdd pouring, breaking, the cloud may fall off
HDDs do not break or crumble during normal use, and if they start to crumble, then, as a rule, you still have time to copy the data. Of course, if you drop and beat the HDD during operation, you can easily 'saw down' the surface and heads. And the HDD lying on the shelf is generally a very reliable thing.
BD disks, in addition to the price of the disks and the drive themselves, have one big minus: due to the high recording density, the slightest scratch on the surface can lead to the loss of several gigabytes of information. Yes, and it is not yet known how long they will be able to store information (without surface degradation), I suggest that approximately, like Dvd, only again, due to the high recording density, data loss, most likely, there will be more
HDDs are reliable if it is not a Seagate.
WDC / Western Digital is more reliable. For more than 15 years I have been buying HDD and basically WDC live longer.
Although, their age is already walking because of cheaper SSDs.
SSDs are not yet so cheap this time, and secondly, with long-term storage, they are not doing very well (especially in a de-energized state). Thirdly, if the controller is dead on the HDD, then you can drop the controller from the donor and restore the information, if the controller is dead on the SSD, then that's it, because only the controller “knows” where what was lying.
The cheapest and rather reliable option is to burn data to DVD-disks, but not in the usual form, but to create RAR archives without compression, but with the addition of information for recovery. This will increase the volume of data, but significantly increase the chances of complete or almost complete recovery of the original data, even if it is damaged. The likelihood of recovery will depend on the amount of recovery information added. I stored a lot of data in this way 10-15 years ago. And not multimedia, but programs and drivers, where damage to one bit makes the data unusable. And for photos and videos, the method is working and even more so.
When it comes to hard drives, one can argue. Even the disc on the shelf is aging. The lubricant in the engine thickens, corrodes the metal. In fact, the hermetic zone with pancakes is not airtight, but has an air maze through which the pressure is equalized when the temperature changes. Thus, moisture also gets there. There is a desiccant, but it can't work forever. I have many examples from practice, when the HDD after a long idle time (years) at the first start worked normally, the surface test went well, and after a couple of hours or days it wedged or started to “click”.
For myself, I chose the following method: I store photos on three different computers, synchronizing them from time to time. You shouldn't keep everything, don't be lazy after each “photo session” to sort through the photos and choose only the best ones. Even you won't look at the garbage, and even many years later. As a result, there won't be much data. For example, since 2007 I have only 90 GB of photos.
Of 10-year-old DVDs, I already have 10 percent unreadable at all. That is, add at least 50% for recovery - it will not help. Rims are 'household', but Verbatim and TDK.
The HDD can have both a labyrinth / filter, and a sealed compartment, in the latter case they put a membrane to equalize the pressure.
If you shoot only 'for yourself' - this is one thing, and if you at least sometimes shoot for others, then this is another. I have over a terabyte of photos now. Yes, you need to sort it out, 50-70 percent will fly past the basket, but this is the time, which is constantly lacking. It's easier for me to buy another three-terabyte HDD, drop a copy there, turn it off and sleep peacefully.
With DVD, especially with an archive (until you copy the entire archive - you won't open one photo, for example) there is a problem with access speed + you need to keep some kind of 'catalog' with a list of what is recorded on the disks, otherwise the archive turns stupidly into a graveyard.
I store it on 2 HDDs, on one copy, and on the second I copy without garbage + I dropped only the family archive onto DVD and store it not at home. Also annually I print the best family photos, format 13 * 18, somewhere around 20-30 photos.
Now I come to the idea of annually printing a photo book with comments.
I keep all the archives on cassettes, here is an example.
Price of cassettes, price of drive? Well, there is a suspicion that over time they are demagnetized.
SureStore DAT24 streamer, there is also a larger capacity. in the secondary market, both the drive itself and the cassettes are inexpensive, because they are no longer used, having been replaced by LTO tape arrays. a manufacturer's guarantee for a storage period of 30 years, and this can be trusted, since their application is in the banking and corporate sector. at the time of release (1996) the drive cost about $ 2000, so it was not (and is not) a toy.
The price of the drive now, the availability and price of cassettes?
I gave the name, everything is searched on the net in five minutes.