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Good afternoon, I would be grateful if you determine whose lens it is so that I can pick up the adapter for Kenon.
Sigma mirror-telephoto multti-coated 1: 8 f = 600mm
Hello everyone. I have a Nikon D90 18-105 VR. I didn’t drop, did not fight, there were no shocks. I went out into the countryside and took 20 shots. I take the next shot, the whole process worked as it should, and when the mirror was triggered, a sound similar to howling appeared. The frame was dark. The viewfinder is dark, but the settings are visible. He took off the lens, the mirror goes up and down. There is light in the viewfinder without a lens. The display on the top says EER - generally a mistake. I put the lens, it’s dark again, I try to take a picture, it does not focus, but the motor works. Tell me what is the cause of the malfunction?
Shooting without a lens?
The same thing happens, it does not focus, but the motor is audible how it works. Not fotat
If it does not shoot in a fully manual 'M' mode and without a lens, then there is a problem with the carcass (looks like a mechanic), bring it to the service
switching to live view, if there is one in d90, cure the problem?
He is. I click on the button, there is no response.
I can assume that the mirror lifting mechanism is out of order. It is also called the mirror drive mechanism. Google - a lot of materials on the web, perhaps this will allow you to more accurately diagnose the problem. If my assumption turns out to be correct, then if you cannot fix it yourself, the repair will be comparable to the cost of d90 on the secondary
Most likely the lens has nothing to do with it. Remove the lens. The diaphragm should be closed, but open when moving the pusher. If everything is so - the diaphragm assembly in the camera itself. Get someone else's lens and double-check.
Vitaliy. In general, I looked closely at the viewfinder. The light barely passes, but nothing is really visible. When the button is pressed, the focus area shines red in some places, in some places it does not shine. Everything looks something like a broken plasma TV. But again, I didn’t drop the camera, the bag was good shockproof
Dilemma. What is better for an advanced amateur photographer who has grown out of "prosumer", but is not going to make a living photography: 1) a well-used full frame + inexpensive optics or 2) a new, last years of production "crop" + high-aperture fixtures?
And what does “inexpensive optics” mean? For example, I keep a dozen fixes with a total cost of two and a half thousand under 5D price of $ 300. And this is only the very minimum that allows you to reveal the capabilities of the camera. It makes no sense to take a full frame and save on optics.
“There is no point in taking a full frame and saving on optics” - thank you, I understand your idea
Here it is necessary to clarify this. Since I do not know Nikon's technique and am not interested in it at all from the word, I will give an example from the Canon's technique. There are two clipping lines, for example - with the same first dime. Upper - El-lenses, which are, by and large, unnecessary for this penny (maybe, with the exception of 135 mm; this is a separate topic, which I will not go into). The lower cutoff line is Soviet lenses, which do not provide an opportunity to see the natural color of 5D due, to put it mildly, to the peculiarities of Soviet optical glass. Between these borders, there is a lot of interesting things in the price range from $ 30 to five hundred. The only thing that I consider obligatory is a couple of native autofocus fixes.
Thanks! By the way, I was just about to experiment with Soviet optics. One of my acquaintances “bribed” by the fact that he gets excellent results with 135-mm Jupiter in FF.
I mean 37A 135 \ 3.5?
Not sure, but possible. I remembered only “Jupiter” and “135 mm” from its parameters :)
But in relation to the 5D MII, and especially - MIII-IV, the cut lines will move up significantly. Elki will enter the perimeter as a must-have, and a considerable part of the film lenses will fall out of it. About Jupiters I will say this: I do not like the Zannar picture, and even more so in the local version. Just a personal opinion ...
You did not specify the task where the camera will be used.
Budget 70, maximum 80 thousand; shooting - everyday subjects, children, close-ups; some astro photography. There is a good prosumer for landscapes, but it lacks a clean picture at high ISO and aperture after 30 mm.
Take the cheapest full-frame Ncon - D 610, and optics for it are used. from the film era, good, sea. The case when saving on optics will not particularly affect its quality.
I vote for the full frame.
Optics fixes can be bought and inexpensive for ff.
A crop with any lenses will remain crop, and there is not the slightest sense of investing in expensive lenses.
It's like buying a nisan mikra and hanging a kenguryatnik, wheels, tuning - mikra will remain a mikra.
Read the opinion of Arkady - he clearly said that the transition to ff after the crop is like a breath of fresh air.
Thanks for the opinions, I am inclined to the full frame. Even if you need to invest, the system will overgrow with the necessary selection of lenses over the years.
By the way, the situation in the secondary market also speaks of this: out of 10 offers, 8-9 are digital compacts or crop, 1-2 are FF. It is immediately obvious what they are more willing to part with. Moreover, a full frame is very expensive even after many years of operation.
Crop is more difficult to sell. When I was selling the D90, I felt it myself - there were a lot of offers and I had to get crazy for money, although the camera was in good condition.
Selling D700 and D3s (which I used) I lost almost nothing in money.
“… Out of 10 sentences 8-9 - digital compacts or crop, 1-2 - FF. You can immediately see what they are more willing to part with ”- you can still see the volumes of the then sales in these segments.
If you do not print posters of large sizes (A3 or more), there is little point in switching to a full frame.
The print size is not related to the format of the matrix.
The point is not in the large size of the posters, but in a higher working ISO, a smaller problem with the resolution of the matrix lens with the same number of pixels, if necessary, a narrower depth of field, RAW is better drawn.
Good day! Tell me, has anyone used wide-angle attachments (optical converters)? I didn't find reviews or real, not advertising reviews ((Does the aperture decrease? What is the general impression of the photo? There is no way to buy a wide-angle lens. So I am considering options ... I plan to put on an attachment for the 18-200 lens, I already have it dark, but I will take a tripod on the trip.
thanks for answers
Do you need wider than 18 mm ???
Oleg, yes, I want shirik) and I am looking for options other than buying a lens.
Lena, 18 (29 mm for FF) is quite wide. What you get with additional nozzle lenses will be much worse than if you glue the panorama with a conditional fifty dollars.
Well you are not going to shoot people over-the-top;)
Aperture does not change. The nozzle only degrades the image itself, making the lens a little wider
Michael, thanks for the answer. Tell me, did you shoot with such a nozzle? How much is quality deteriorating? Could you give a little more detail, please.
A drop in sharpness, a tenfold zoom curve geometry will become even more crooked, problems with autofocus are possible, up to its absence, a drop in speed, accuracy.
The maximum that the nozzle can do is turn 18mm into 15mm.
Hello!
I am reading your resource with great interest and pleasure, thank you!
I wanted to ask which lens would you recommend for Canon Mark 2 for subject photography? it’s possible that it’s macro, but not in the woods, but in the studio in the lightbox, strictly motionless objects.
Canon 100 / 2.8 Macro or Canon 100 / 2.8L IS Macro - the second is almost identical optically, but it benefits greatly due to the stabilizer and all-weather performance.
thanks, but from cheap options?
Canon 100 / 2.8 Macro is not USM. Yusm macrocell is quite affordable (used up to $ 300).
From cheap - screw 50 / 1.8, hold down the diaphragm to 11 and shoot to health.
If it's even cheaper - manual Helios-44)
Tamron 90mm 2.8 without stub.
On ebee can be found for $ 200.
Good day! Advise the analog (or something similar in quality) of the Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 17-55mm or Nikon N AF-S Nikkor 24-70mm 1: 2.8G ED. Because the camera is sprinkled with me Nikon d90, then of course the analogue for the first option is more suitable. Maybe there are some good Sigma options? The lens is needed for a trip on vacation, to take landscapes, people, a city, in general, a universal one with a good aperture.
https://radojuva.com/2013/12/sigma-17-50mm-2-8-ex-dc-os-hsm/
But when buying, be sure to check for front-back focus.
Thank you.
In the fall I bought a Nikor 17-55mm. No problems with the front-back. Sharpness, color rendition is excellent. In winter I shot for five days in freezing temperatures down to -30 * - no problems. I also have Nikon 90 and I don’t take it off the camera anymore. what I am capable of, the lens provides completely. And this also: vacation, landscape, people, and especially matinees in kindergarten. Yes, constant aperture is like a wife who does not suffer from a headache in the most interesting moments.
Thank you
Hello
Interested in your opinion?
I have a Nikon D3100 and a pair of lenses (17-17 sigma and 150-500 sigma)
The question is. If I purchase Nikon d7200, what will be the difference in the photos taken?
Thank you
almost none in reality.
In my opinion, there is little point in switching from crop to crop.
If we are talking about the quality of the photo, then the changes will be cosmetic.
7200 newer, better focus and battery, more professional chips - yes.
But only the transition to a full frame, which is close in price, will give a noticeable difference.
You are right Alexey.
For the real difference in the picture, you need to change the crop to a full frame.
Can you formulate this notorious “real difference” in some measurable terms? No esotericism.
From what I got:
- Definitely larger viewfinder size, comfortable. But at the same time there are 9 focusing points, which are clustered in the center against 65, scattered over almost the entire field (5D2 vs 7D2), minus the level, minus the grid.
- better for a stop or two at high ISO due to the larger size of the sensor element.
- less depth of field on high-aperture lenses, but this is also not always necessary. Often you have to cover up to 2-2.8.
The notorious difference in the picture.
In order not to start holivar, google and see for yourself. If there is no difference for you, then you better crop 1.5 or even 2, because the difference between 1.5 and 2 is less than between 1 and 1.5.
The drain is counted.
Are you still not able to find a comparison of crop and full frame? Take courses on how to use Google.
What is the difference in the picture? Only in depth of field and bokeh distortion on some lenses? Is it worth the loss of coverage by focus points? A thin depth of field is also not always in place. Good lenses on the FF are more expensive than those on the crop. Weight gain is also not a plus. If you don’t bomb, do you need FF?
FF is cool, crop sucks ... Yes, the owners of SF think the same about you ...
You need to take a camera based on the needs, and not show-offs and children's maximalism.
I have both, and I do not pee with delight at the words "full frame" and "medium format". They think a lot about technology and little about photography. The “picture” is made by light, subject and composition, not full frame and fix. If you call photography walking with some junk in order to find the next flower-leaf-twig and then examine bokeh, detail and divine unique color, then I have bad news for you.
Yes, and another nuance, the author has 150-500, which means he immediately has a free teleconverter 1.6 on crop. But who cares about the goals and objectives of the photographer.
teleconverter 1.6 ??? :) Surround!
I would argue. Switching to a full frame does not make a noticeable difference in itself. The park of full-frame optics also relies on it usually, which will obviously be better than the crop one.
Take a look. With 7200 you get a waterproof case (for example, without fear of spray, I go with my 7D2 into the pool, even with an ordinary lens). That is, more diverse shooting conditions.
You have 51 focus points instead of 11, a significant part of the frame area is covered, you can focus without re-cropping. The electronic horizon allows you to take pictures right away. The virtual grid in the viewfinder also allows you to better compose the frame (the lower cameras always focus in the center and rearrange).
It shoots a little better in the dark, a little more tenacious autofocus due to additional cross points, focusing up to 8 in the center. 6 frames per second - good on dynamic scenes.
If you feel that you have outgrown your camera, then 7200, if you study and begin to use all its advanced features, it will allow you to create images of much higher quality. Not due to some properties of the matrix, dynamic range, etc., but due to these additional features. If you continue to use the camera, then switching to full frame will not work.
When switching to prof. crop I began to shoot much more comfortable and enjoyable, and this is the guarantee of good pictures.
Roman, Konstantin was interested in the difference in the picture, and not moisture protection.
In general, I have a suspicion that he “ate” not so much a camera as glasses. Fast fixes can help unleash the D3100's potential in new ways. And then our heated argument will be meaningless.
Thanks for the answers
about "ate" is debatable, these glasses are excellent, of course 150-500 a bit dark, but fixes with such focal lengths are more expensive
17-70. Well, to be completely frank, well, very good glass photos received with him, well, I don’t know. Well, just great))
photo processing is simple. I change the exposure values and everything in the editor (the editor is the PHOTO program built into the MAC)
a little more about 150-500, very good at the “far end” (not advertising)
Well then, I repeat, most of all the quality of your picture changes your growth as a photographer. And the D7200 will give you a bunch of additional tools for this growth to take place (provided that you use them, of course).
Kostya, we have already given a good example.
If you as a motorist are tired of Nissan Mikra and you are looking for something that will give you a fundamentally new one, then Nissan Mikra with moisture protection and automatic transmission, with a mounted kenguryatnik and alloy wheels will still remain Nissan Mikra.
Only the transition to a normal sedan or SUV will give you new things.
Therefore, people do not invest in expensive crop if they have already grown from a budget crop, but switch to a full frame, especially since it has a ridiculous price now.
Arkady correctly said that a full frame after a crop is like a breath of fresh air.
- Georgians are better than Armenians!
- How better, wai, than better?
- Than the Armenians.
You have a very good example, by the way. Exponential. "I wanted something fundamentally new." I live in Ust-Zazhopinsk, the collective farm "30 years without a crop", I did not have roads and are not expected, but I need a luxury sedan. Or I drive my Micra to work back and forth, I can throw the children to the club or my mother-in-law to the market, but let's go SUV. Something new though.
Without realities, without tasks, without understanding the problems, all this is called with one good word: show-off. Not: “I'm going to ride on ridges and I need an SUV”, not “I have a farm and a pickup would not hurt”, not “My family has grown, I need a bigger car” or “I like to travel, I want a house on wheels”, but simply. I want a cool car. To be cooler than others.
Is an old dead sedan or SUV with a minimum equipment better than a fancy new micra? You need to choose according to your needs and capabilities. I chose between 7100 and 610. I chose the almost new 7100. Cheaper and more convenient. For the same price it was possible to take 610, but in a ushatanny state and remain almost without optics. And having tried both, I decided - if there is a full frame, then it will be the BZK. After crop coverage with focusing points, even the professional FF does not want to look. I don't need to shoot or bomb weddings, I chose whichever is more convenient.
And about the ridiculous prices - why don't you buy SF? This is certainly more than a breath of air. And the price is already ridiculous by the old standards ...
Read the Bones question
“I have a Nikon d3100 and a pair of lenses (17-17 sigma and 150-500 sigma)
The question is. If I buy Nikon d7200, what will be the difference in the received photos? "
The answer is simple - there is really no difference and there will not be, within the same format. It's just a fact. To get a visible difference, you need to change the format. This is also just a fact.
And you can flood endlessly, inventing your own questions and furiously answering them ...
That is, in the framework of one format there is no difference? Then why buy a D750-800-810-850, if you can buy a D600-610 and enjoy? There is a difference, only the owners of FF snobbery rolls over.
By the way, Konstantin did not say a word about FF - he was interested in the question of changing an amateur crop to an advanced one. So you flood, Alexander.
Please help with the advice of fellow photographers. I am the owner of the Nikon D3200 camera. I want to buy a new, but budget lens, it is desirable that you can shoot both portraits and full-length. What can you advise?
Nikon 35 / 1.8G will be a more universal solution. Nikon 50 / 1.8G is more suitable for portraits. Theoretically, growth portraits can be shot at least 300mm, at least 600, just for this purpose it is necessary to move farther and farther away from the subject. And if by 35 mm on a crop you can shoot a full-length portrait in a small studio or a large apartment, then by 50 mm a large studio, etc.
The novel writes theoretically, and in practice I tried using my sigma 150-500 to shoot portraits, the result is gorgeous, on any focal
Sure you may. Moreover, depth of field is obtained as with high-aperture portrait lenses. There is only one minus - the distance to the model is large. Plus - a minimum of distortion of the proportions of the face, especially if the nose is large.
Kostya, if you have the opportunity to rent a studio or you have apartments in which you can shoot full-length portraits on a crop of 500 mm (with a margin of several meters for blurring), then you can only envy your capabilities.
And so in nature - quite. 300 / 2.8 is often used by some fashion photographers, the background in the trash.
just tried it several times, the result was pleasantly surprised (I'm talking about daylight hours)
Only for studio shooting NEVER use background blur, as the backdrops are either special studio backgrounds or the interior of the studio. They are not "blurred".
Usually they shoot at F / 5,6 ... 8 with focal points from 50 ... 70 and higher if the studio allows.
O'rly? Check out the covers of Esquire. Whoever says that they are not filmed in the studio, let him be the first to throw a stone at me.
In the studio, they often remove on apertures up to 8..11, but this is not a reinforced concrete rule, it all depends on the task.
Nikon DX55-300. At the 200mm mark, you can make excellent portraits of all kinds, including growth ones. The background is very blurry.
Nikon 55-300mm f / 4.5-5.6G ED DX VR AF-S Nikkor is great, but only for outdoor shooting.
What is the place perfect for this most ordinary soapy darkness?
The ratio of picture-weight-price, + stub, -focus is not fast.
And if I have a nikon 18-105mm 1: 3,5-5,6 lens and two flashes, how useful will a 35mm 1: 1,8 lens be in the apartment?
If only to highlight the subject due to less depth of field - flowers, crafts, portrait.
Arkady hello!
Please advise inexpensive Soviet lenses for the subject. We need a sharp picture, there is a studio light, in general it is planned to shoot everything in feng shui. Canon 7D Camera I think they are interested in focal lengths taking into account crop from 50, 80, 100 and above.
Thank you in advance!
Yes, Helios is one of those that are newer especially - 44M6, M7 on hole 8. Industar-61 as an option. Only specular (L / Z), not rangefinder (L / D).
And what lens do you recommend so that with a crop factor in the region of 50 it turns out?
From the Soviet, so that with a crop of 1,6 in the region of 50mm? Yes, even sharp for the subject? That is unlikely. Is that the World 24n.
To be honest, it’s better to already spend 3000 UAH (a little more than $ 100) on EF-S 24 / 2,8 or EF-40 / 2.8. They have good MDF and good sharpness.
And for the subject EF-S 35 / 2.8 is generally fine. Macro backlit plus as a staffer can be used, plus a stub. A very underrated lens. Sharpness, contrast. Well, do not be tormented with Soviet glasses when it comes to work.
Thank you very much! Helped to figure it out.
Good day. Tell me, if a person is illuminated with a flash on one side and a medium-sized white reflector is placed on the other side, how many times will the lighting of the photograph taken from the reflector be weaker?
It depends on the pulse power, the distance from the flash to the reflector, from the reflector to the subject.
From the distance and from the reflectivity of the reflector. The multiplicity of the flash power does not matter here if this is the only light source. Double the flash output - double the reflector.
I can give a test Nikon 20mm f / 4
If interested, unsubscribe to the email.
Hello, tell me, I have a Nikon D7000. Which Soviet wide-angle can be picked up? There are a lot of lenses, but because of the crop factor, I don’t understand how to choose one. I want to shoot architecture, nature.
Thanks in advance for your reply)
This is not a very good idea, with Soviet widths on the crop.
https://radojuva.com/2011/12/mc-zenitar-16-mm-2-8-fish-eye-review/
This Zenitar is a fisheye, sometimes with a Nikon bayonet, on the crop the angle of view will correspond to 24mm in a full frame, while the bent geometry of the fish remains. Look better for something modern.
“Because of the crop factor I don’t understand how to choose” - mm of focal length for just one scale: that the zenith is 16 / 2,8 (for FX), that the Nikon 16-85 DX, that the Nikon 16-35 (for FX) - 16mm will give everyone the same viewing angle.
Hello.
Tell me, please, how do you still need to store batteries from Nikon? On the Internet they write that they are fully charged, and in the instructions from the D7000 it is written vice versa before storage to discharge.
To live for a long time - keep charged. If for safety - discharged (if you accidentally short it will not seem a little, up to a fire).
Li-ion batteries are usually advised to keep them half-charged for a long time, in protective plastic caps (if not lost) and recharge them once or twice a year.
Full discharge is harmful to Li-ion, which entails a noticeable degradation of the capacitance.
And long-term storage at maximum is not useful, which also leads to a reduction in capacity, but not as dramatic as due to a full discharge.
If you notice, the equipment is usually sold half charged for this very reason.
Thank you very much, now everything is clear!
Tell me, I turn on the camera (Nikon) on the screen, the inscription-this battery can not be used. Choose a battery that is suitable for this camera. I'm afraid that it started as a battery accidentally stuck to a powerful magnet. Or not? maybe the term has come to her? she’s 10 years old. what’s the reason?
The battery controller could have died. Check is difficult. Try to take another suitable battery from your friends / acquaintances to make sure that the problem is in it, and not in the device. And check your battery in another device.
My D80 battery is also more than 10 years old, the flight is normal.
thank you. I will try. the battery looks good. without blisters and damage. it worked perfectly and here they are for bad luck. yes, and it is not cheap ...
Good day! What advise is the wide-angle M42 lens for shooting architecture and landscapes, not necessarily Soviet?
Nikon D700 camera (adapter with lens)
Thank you in advance!
Why is M42 necessary? Are there few lenses with Nikon mount? The lens in the adapter, as a rule, degrades the quality, especially at long distances.
Recently acquired fotik Nikon D5600 in a set there were 2 lenses.
AF-P DX NIKKOR 18–55 VR
AF-P DX NIKKOR 70–300 VR
some
well, just the same - this is of course a whale lens, which is the cheapest at the moment, but far from the same as the 18-55 AF-S
He did not finish. Below is a question.
Please give advice as a beginner "mirror"
before that fotkal on the Samsung WB850 soap dish.
I got a Nikon D5600 camera in the kit, there were 2 lenses.
AF-P DX NIKKOR 18–55 VR f / 3.5-5.6
AF-P DX NIKKOR 70–300 VR f / 3.5-5.6
which one is better for shooting at slow shutter speeds at night?
18-55, of course. Average hand-held exposure is 1 / focal. Those. at a focal length of 18 mm, somewhere 1 / 20s will be fine. With the stabilizer on, a few more steps, somewhere up to 1 / 4s. By 300 mm, respectively, 1 / 250s.
But it’s with hands, with a tripod anyway.
Or are you talking about astrophoto? Then there is no difference, there is more to the matrix of the camera question, not to the lens.
Better wider too
Well, there is already that a person is shooting - panoramas or individual clusters of stars.
You can’t take off individual constellations from a tripod. A mount is needed, but it’s already easier to use a telescope than to fence a garden
Why do you think so? Can you imagine the viewing angle of a telescope? In comparison even with 300 mm? And what is the problem of installing the camera on a mount?
Yes, and there are techniques for shooting the starry sky from a tripod with a more or less telephoto lens (not 300 mm of course), even down to simple deep-sky objects.
Because at long focal lengths, short ones are obtained. I represent the angle of view of 600-1000 mm in low-cost models, the difference is small. The problem with landing is that separately cheap mounts come with Chinese telescopes. It makes no sense, instead of a telescope, to figure out how to put a camera down and shoot at 300 mm.
Have you really done astrophotography? For many objects, 600 mm is a lot. This is not the usual case with a fifty-kopeck fixed-rate fix; you won't be able to move a little further here so that everything fits in.
There is no problem in landing - on a number of models the mount is de facto compatible with tripod pads of the arca-swiss standard, and even without this it is possible to screw the camera.
And short shutter speeds don't matter if you have super high ISOs, if you know what I mean.
We did. Some models have it, others don't. High ISO on crop is no good. Better a bunch of photos on the stack. At a shutter speed of half a second (for 300 mm) you can't take a lot. So it's easier and better to use a telescope, or shoot the starry sky at a wide angle
I have reasonable doubts about this.
If you are in the know for stacking, it is not clear why you are protesting against shooting with a conventional tripod and against high ISO.
And you misused the '600 rule' - at 300mm the shutter speed will be 2 seconds instead of half a second.
I am not against high ISO, they will be high anyway. I mean, at such focal exposures will be short and nothing good will come of it. Wide-angle shots will produce good shots at minimal cost. And then - a telescope with a mount is better than similar perversions.
thank you)
Hello everyone! I am an artist and I need to photograph my works for the sale of paintings. I have an old Canon EOS 550 with a whale lens. The lens takes very soapy photos. There is no money for an expensive lens, so I choose from the old manual optics. Need good sharpness and decent color reproduction. I look closely at Helios-81n, Inudustar 61 l / z 50 / 2,8 and Carl Zeiss Jena DDR Tessar 50 mm f / 2.8.
I need advice on which one of these is better to acquire, or some other one may be. Thank you in advance!
PS I don’t know if the size of the pictures is important, no more than 50 × 50 cm. And I read a lot of positive things about Carl Zeiss Jena DDR Tessar 50 mm f / 2.8 in terms of sharpness and color reproduction, but also a lot of negative things about mechanics. I don't want to buy a lens and then run around the repair shops.
Yes, a whale lens should not take very soapy photos. Is there a tripod? Take a picture on the open and on the clamped to 8-11, show what happens. It is unlikely that you will get much better pictures on all these old fixes, unless you have something wrong with the lens.
Yes, I photograph only with a tripod. I'll try as you recommend. Thanks.
I took two photos: 1. shutter speed 0.8, aperture 8.0; 2. 1/5 shutter speed, aperture fully open 3.5. I still have a SUNPAK ULTRAVIOLET 58MM filter, can it be removed?
If there is a stub (IS “Image stabilization”) on the lens, then it is better to turn it off when shooting with a tripod: microvibrations affect sharpness.
You have a slow shutter speed, when you press the shutter button, even on a tripod, there is a risk of blur.
Use the remote control or set the shutter release to the timer so that the hands of the camera at the time of shooting on
touch.
Further, if you shoot in jpeg, it can be blurry due to compression settings. Try to add sharpness in the in-camera jpeg (xs how it is done on kenon, I'm a nikonist, but still). Or try shooting in a rav.
If it does not help, then only take a fix. Try to find a good copy of the MC Helios 44M-6, but it is better to find the native Kenon poltos 1.8 in good condition.
PHOTO 1
PHOTO 2
As if yes, sharpness does not shine. It is clear that the smear is large, but at least the texture of the canvas should convey.
Try without a filter and with manual focus in LiveView with high magnification. Perhaps a fingerprint or just dust on the lens closest to the sensor needs to be cleaned with LensPen or a spoon should be smoked with a candle flame and gently clean the lenses with this soot and a cotton bud.
Modern Canon zooms (especially the last one, which is 18-55 / 4-5,6 IS STM, but also everything after DC III) are very good at a tight diaphragm.
On the one hand, of course, you are unlikely to get a much better picture on old manual lenses (especially with regard to color rendering), on the other hand, this is not the limit of what a regular lens can give out.
Well, the lighting is also in doubt, it’s better to shoot at least with a sheet of paper in RAW and set the white balance on it already.
Yes, and nice pictures!
Thank you, I will try your advice.
What kind of tripod? Maybe inexpensive and heavy camera vibration does not dampen?
Tripod - Velbon cx-888, I didn't seem to notice any vibrations.
Well, their eye is not visible. I will add some tips for you)) Do not extend the central pole, do not fully extend the tripod (last leg sections), use the mirror lifter and the shutter lag, and turn off the stabilizer. If you still feel bad try focusing in Liveview. View the Picture Control settings for sharpening (maybe minimized there). Try to unscrew the protective filter (for the whale gag, in general, it is not needed). Nothing else comes to mind. The whale lens, of course, is wretched, but not so much. Good luck
Thanks for the tips, I'll try.
old manual lenses - not for quality, but for an unusual picture. you will definitely not have bokeh when photographing pictures.
buy some modern macro lens. or if the whale is soaping, just replace it with another whale, but a working one
The author of the question wrote “good sharpness and decent color rendition”, not bokeh, the picture is half a meter on the floor, why mvcro lens?
Macro lenses usually have well corrected distortion and, most importantly, the field of focus is not curved. And the sharpness is all right.
That's why he and Kit, to soap ... Even with old fixes - it will be much sharper!
Or will Roma add money to a new, super sharp?
Guys, tell me, if the ad for a used camera has a postscript "Mileage 95 thousand frames, there was a planned replacement of the shutter", this means that the mileage is the same for the old and new shutters, right? And if the shutter is new, then it can last about the same with careful use, or is it not a fact? Should such a device be considered at all?
It is unclear by whom, when, under what conditions, and most importantly ~ for what reason the shutter changed. Scheduled shutter replacement ~ how is it? Similar records on Avito saw only the D750 with such low mileage. They sold wedding men and videographers. The cameras were squeezed out like a lemon. Just because the shutters do not change, especially with modern cameras.
When the first time, while still under warranty, the shutter lay on my d7000 (about 115 mileage), he went to Kiev under warranty, and there it was replaced in the official service, the counter “reset”, the second and third time (for 000 and 220 000 mileage) also changed in the service, but not in the official one, the counter was not reset.
They easily change the gates of the d600 when the matrix is sprinkled with small dots - according to Nikon's program "fixing jambs", he passed it himself. Perhaps the d750 does too. As for the mileage, ask the seller what he had in mind, when the shutter is replaced, the mileage is reset.
Apparently, 95k mileage is already with a new shutter. It depends on which camera, of course.
Hello. Please give some advice. I have a Nikon d700 camera and bought lenses for it
1- Nikon 85 1.8d
2- tamron 28-75 2.8
3- Samyang 14 2.8
4- Sigma 70-300 makro
And accessories 2 flashes sb-900 and sb-800, 4 batteries and other little things. I will buy another battery pack.
About 10 years I am engaged in amateur photography of friends, family etc. used in order Canon 1000d-nikon d90- nikon d7000. I have not matured much and decide to earn extra money in photographs and I want to shoot weddings, matinees in kindergartens and other events. Are my lenses enough at the moment for entry-level? What can you offer to buy or change? Preferably budget for a start.
By the way, he himself is from the north and we often have the northern lights. Samyang 14 bought to shoot the Northern Lights, but I think it will be useful for other purposes. Waiting for your advice. Thanks in advance 👍)
By the way, who writes these articles, thank you very much for the articles that helped me a lot when choosing both a camera and lenses. I spend 3-4 hours a day on this site a day. I myself am from Turkey but I like your articles in Russian more.
Thank you so much 👍. I would also like articles on photo processing for beginners.
By the way, you can criticize if you want (I will be grateful for the comments). In the photo is my daughter. I shot on d700 +85 1.8d and made a crop I don’t remember how much)
Yeah, out of focus and not enough light.
Thanks 👍
What is all green….
A set for all occasions. All you need to do is practice. Practice and practice again.
As for the processing of photographs - I myself would have read good articles or watched the same courses, most of the amateurs are self-taught, incl. and photo processing. But I think that the final photo should be bright, colorful (although in reality it was not so). You have such a bright child in the picture, but in the general light the photo seems gloomy.
Thank you 👍 I will consider it next time)
Thanks 👍
Can i charge my nikon d5600 with a paverbank?
How much battery life is enough if you take pictures while looking at the display and not through the peephole?
The instructions should indicate whether there is the possibility of such recharging, I think that this is impossible. When shooting through Live View, the accumulator by itself, sits much faster.
Charging from PowerBank is no different from charging from a power outlet via an adapter. See what your charging current is on the adapter, if it is more than 1000mA (1A, 2A), take a fast charging power bank so that it has a 2A output and charge calmly.
I wonder how you are going to do this? The usb connector on the camera is for data transfer only. You can charge the batteries with third-party charging from a power bank, you can insert an adapter into the camera instead of a battery, which also works from 5 volts.
But they could have done, Canon has long been sanding for this. Fujiki added here. It would be very convenient to take one universal adapter with you on the road.
I think that charging in the camera is not worth doing. And the quick ambulance is not necessary for the DSLR. Soap dish with infrequent use is one thing, a mirror is another thing, on which several thousand can be snapped off per day. But they could do charging for batteries with universal power. Thanks to the Chinese for doing this.
There are charges for EN-EL14 with an external adapter. USB cable is something else. So you can safely stick a bank
Well, yes, you said that about it)
Arkady, why don't you make a comparative test review of a modern smartphone camera in the price range of $ 200-300 and a cropped DSLR 5-7 years ago? Take the most popular subjects: portrait, landscape, street photo. And see what happens in fact for an ordinary, not fanatically enthusiastic user. It seems to me that this year has become some kind of turning point in the minds of an ordinary user, who takes not a top smartphone or top lenses. I think many people were interested in this, because the trust in you, your site and the huge work done by you personally seems to me above any criticism. Moreover, not so long ago you wrote that there is some kind of oversaturation from new glasses and sometimes it is more interesting to shoot with some kind of whale than to survey another new product from the brand. Sincerely.
First, the comparison will not be equal - “raw” photos from a DSLR and processed from a smartphone. And secondly - to smartphone owners, like mirrorless DSLRs, it will be great. The first do not need troubles, the second, and so everything is clear. Some photos, and some photos.
The result, I think, is already known. I tried, even the bokeshka is somehow monotonous (without differences in depth), not to mention the absence of gradations of color and light on relatively plain colored objects (leather, greens).
Therefore, if compactness is needed, I have a pro-twilight. And a smartphone for documents, price tags, step-by-step analysis, etc. Well, landscapes can be clicked for wallpaper ... on a smartphone.
Smartphones and DSLRs complement each other rather than compete. And without comparison, it’s clear that the camera (no difference or no SLR) under the same conditions will provide more opportunities for a good photo. However, with increased opportunity, both weight and size increase. At the same time, it is not always good quality and it is important when you consider that the pictures taken on the phone will be viewed on the same phone. I am especially touched by the moments when I go and see someone with a DSLR on their neck enthusiastically takes photos with a smartphone. At the sight of this, I am lost in conjecture.
Ken Rockwell has a lot of photos from a smartphone and in my opinion they are no worse than from a SLR
Does Nikon know? :)
And then. Nikon cut his warmth, other manufacturers took advantage of this. I won’t be surprised if he soon starts to spin children’s cars or seats in cars.
Hello everybody. I have such a question. What is the difference between firms in DX format Nikon, tamron and yungnuo. It is clear that Nikon is the most expensive.
The essence of the question: is it worth trusting those other optical companies? what are they in comparison in quality? maybe someone has such.
You can read, there are many reviews of lenses and tamron and yongnguo and other so-called. third-party manufacturers, and DX and FX. These reviews also contain feedback from their owners and users.