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Good day, Andrey! Since I want to give a camera and a lens and I don’t understand much about it, I would like to ask such questions:
Which camera for a professional photographer is better for you: Canon 5d m4 or Canon R? Is Sony a7r3 much more interesting? Maybe there are other options for a full frame?
The person to whom I want to give, shoots gorgeous photoshoots in the studio and outdoors at 600d with whale lenses and a fifty fifty (1.8 L).
The budget is certainly not rubber, but there are $ 2300 per carcass. Therefore, the question is about the ability to shoot with existing lenses (possibly through adapters), and the requirements are as follows:
1. Maximum light sensitivity (due to filming with the projector when the lights are off).
2. Good and fast focusing in the dark with a minimum number of misses.
A person doesn’t shoot video at all, but besides filming in the dark, there is a need for wedding photo shoots, where continuous shooting without mistakes is very important.
I thought to give Canon R and later accumulate on the lens RF 28-70 with a value of f 2.0, which theoretically should be enough for any task. However, making such gifts would be foolish not to ask a professional!
Thank you in advance!
I apologize, t9 corrected the name, but I did not notice Arkady!
I shoot mostly on a 35mm Nikkor 1.8. In a room where you need a large angle there are 18-105. I would like to try taking a larger picture. Yes 85 Nikkor would be nice, but the price for an amateur also bites. Probably still try 81n.
Hello, alas, Arkady!
Please help with choosing a lens for ff nikon d600.
I now have a fifty dollars and I want something universal with a wide angle of 24-28mm for very inexpensive.
I saw such options on the alder:
1. Nikon AF 28-200 3.5-5.6d
2.Nikon AF NIKKOR 28-85mm 3.5-4.5 (mk1, mk2)
3. Nikon AF Nikkor 24-120mm 3.5-5.6d
4. Nikkor AF 24-85mm 1: 2.8-4d
5. Nikon AF 24-50mm 3.3-4.5 (very cheap)
6. Tokina AF 20-35mm f 3.5-4.5 (as an option)
Or fix 20, 24 (though it’s already a little expensive for me now)
I would be grateful for the answer.
And what does not suit the 24-85 G-shny option? They sell enough and cheap
I know about 24-85mm g.
But it costs $ 200, and I want to buy something cheaper to make sure that cheap doesn't mean bad. What if I am surprised by an old captive for $ 50-100))
Read the Nikkor 28-105 / 3.5-4.5D review on Radozhiva. Arkady praised him.
It’s also very inexpensive and very pleased with it. It costs criminally cheap, and the result is decent.
Thank you!
I like purely focal 20-35. This is from a solid wide angle to an acceptable standard.
Do not want to try the BU technique?
Thoughtful, thorough, as it seems to me, technique removes SHU fixes. which I saw (also recently thought about buying)
Manual fix can already be bought from 10k rubles, and the quality will be acceptable. BU does not mean bad.
The width of modern installment plan for many networks.
It depends on what is more important to you - an interesting picture or mega-sharpness.
Oh, sorry, I wanted to write a respected Arkady)))
Arkady, good afternoon! I wanted to twist RAFs from Fuji S5 Pro in editors, but all links to the cloud are dead ...
Good afternoon, I take my daughter a Nikon D3500 kit 18-55 mm camera. The first camera for shooting landscapes and the city, not portraits. Friends said not to take a SLR already, but what I read was that a mirror gives a better image. And the cost is certainly more friendly compared to the same Canon.
What do you think for the camera at the beginning of professional shooting?
Tatiana, in terms of image quality and the general principle of use, there is no difference between SLRs and mirrorless mirrors and between Nikon and Kenon. While DSLRs have an advantage in the optics park. At the BZK, everything is much more expensive.
For starters, the D3500 is enough with the head. Even the D3300 is enough.
thank you very much, reassured)))) d3300 and wanted initially, but in Kiev there is nowhere available
Take 5100 from the secondary, there are a lot of them almost new and inexpensive. There is more functionality (read more convenient) than the 3X00, and the pixels are smaller, but 16MP is enough.
Usually, people on the secondary do not take the first camera. This is only later, when they figure out what's what, consciously….
so he will be the second, after the D3500
about this in more detail "What do you think for a camera at the beginning of professional shooting?"
if you shoot a video, then the Nikon D5100 will not work
and for professional shooting it’s better to choose a Canon system
1) So there is a video there. 2) Exactly, one of the nickels. Or dormouse.
Guys, who bought any photo accessories in the e-catalog? If you bought, then where exactly, I do not want to get in the wrong place.
So this is not a store, but only a resource that gives you links to various photo stores (in our particular case). Almost all the stores there are verified.
Thank you Oleg, you can safely order.
I bought more than once on F.Ua, for example, ABC-photo, Photomost.
I looked at the indicated sites today ... only they are all in Ukraine, and I live in Russia. Can someone tell me the verified sites in Russia.
Good afternoon, I want to ask those who have long been on kenon. What is the first SLR to take for familiarization with kenon. I have Nikon D40 and D5100. Options: 350d, 550d, 600d, 5d?
I liked the color and skinton of kenon, I want to try that. I think 5d to take. And question number 2: Will the rest 5d lose? Priority portrait.
the video is not interested
I wonder what it can, in principle, lose to the above-named cameras? 5d is very successful, but there is a problem - the mileage cannot be determined, and the age is already respectable
If you liked some photos, it does not mean that you should buy the same camera and you will have exactly the same.
Well, if you want and can, then in life everything is worth a try))
Someone will tell an analog of the approximate lens Nikkor 80-200 MK3, Only on Canon.
EF 70-200 2.8L
Tamron SP 70-200mm F / 2,8 Di VC USD G2 is very.
Hello.
Can someone tell me, since I did not find detailed information anywhere on the Internet.
Lens Industar-50 50 mm f / 3.5 (for movie cameras). I wonder if the front lens rotates when the focus ring rotates.
Thank you.
Here he is.
Hello. I want to do macro landscape and tamlapse. to rent or friends do not have the opportunity. I choose the system for a long time, but due to lack of knowledge and experience I can’t decide. The budget is not very big $ 240-350 I plan to start with used equipment. Are entry-level Nikon lenses so good? Or it’s better to look towards Kenon. Do not throw slippers at me =) I will be glad to hear the opinion of professionals.
So you macro or landscape?
macro to a greater extent
A budget camera like 1100D, a kit 18-55 for it (from $ 100 to $ 150) and a tripod. Magic Lantern - third-party firmware - allows you to take timelapse photos without an external remote control.
A set of 58mm close-up lenses from +1 to +10 - something around $ 10.
A polarizing filter is very useful for landscapes, but it’s better not to save on it. Buy 58 mm, then through the adapter rings can be used on lenses with a front lens of 52 and 49 mm.
Well, for macro, an inexpensive flash. Having tried, everything can be invested in $ 350 and removed quite decent.
Hey. Advise a good lens service.
AFS 80-200 MK 4. From time to time refuses to focus, if you manually remove the focus to full soap, it focuses quickly and correctly, if, after focusing on one object, you refocus on an object almost standing next to it, then everything does not want to focus, you need to manually take it away in soap, then autofocus works…. ...
This is such a disaster.
I went to different services, after diagnosis, some talk to change the cable, others motor.
I want to go to the third.
Thank you
Vladimir
It’s good to indicate another place of residence) Although I haven’t seen normal Nikon repair services (even the branded one isn’t very good. If only a competent private entrepreneur is told
…. yes ... Kiev, a private trader will do, thanks.
I will not prompt a private owner, but I can strongly recommend NOT to carry it to any of the two "official" services in Kiev.
Good day. Enlighten what kind of lenses. Thanks.
Stand-up - Something long throw (500-600mm or more) from the 70s, like the Soligor. Reclining - it is not clear, there is not enough lens in the frame, but with a tripod socket, large and made in japan.
Here is a photo of the second. Thanks.
Photo of the second.
Hello everyone, I want to take the first camera
On the secondary. There are two options for the Canon 110d and Canon 600d. Mostly thinking about macro. But the priority is landscape. Since I will study, I will try all genres of photography. Help with the choice or advise other options. I will be glad to your comments.
Macro and landscape are quite specific genres and here more depends on the choice of suitable lenses and additional. devices. Basically, the cameras you specified are both suitable.
Good afternoon, tell me please for Nikon d3200 whether the Nikon AF-P 18-55mm f / 3.5-5.6G VR DX lens is suitable
no. AF-S only
Nikon 18-55mm f / 3.5-5.6G AF-S DX VR II lens on Nikon D3200
yes, this one is best from the 18s-55s
thanks a lot
Good afternoon! Petersburgers who are not too advanced in the repair of Soviet optics, but have already repaired in third-party services, may respond. While there was only nikon, even a manual one - you could go to the photo van. But fotovan does not take up Soviet lenses.
Perhaps repairs are not required, more likely diagnostics are needed - see if you suddenly need to clean, a slightly tight focusing ring (not so critical, but suddenly it is a symptom that the whole mechanism is needed, etc.) With the technical part, I am on you, even for detailed I will not undertake to disassemble video tutorials (of which there are many on the network now), most likely.
Interesting services are not too pathetic, but tested, without advice I’m afraid to meditate somewhere.
Thank you!
An interesting experience, in connection with the question above - who still has film cameras. In the event of a serious breakdown (wear) of functional parts, such as a shutter, is it possible to replace-restore such a camera. Interested in the F3 Nikon as an example.
Only if you find a private master and he suddenly has spare parts
Hello, I'm interested in your opinion on the Helios lens. I found an advertisement for the sale of a Helios 44-2 lens with the MMZ logo, I tried to find a review on the site, but I did not find one, the case on it looks like a Helios 44-3 lens from the review, but Helios 44-2 is written on the front side. Could this be a collection of 2 lenses?
Thank you in advance!
P.S. I attach a photo of the lens
This is exactly 44-2 Belomo. https://radojuva.com/2015/04/gelios-44-helios/ See section MMZ, designation h203.
Thank you, apparently overlooked.
Kenon or Nikon. Which system will be cheaper in terms of optics and other devices?
For what specific purposes?
For any crop, Canon has two universal miracles EF-S10-18 and EF-S55-250, which cover almost the entire range of focal lengths, which in principle you may need and easily fit in a photo bag. They can shoot almost everything, both with a stub.
The whale replaces the hole in the middle. Or a pair of inexpensive lenses 24 / 2.8, 50 / 1.8, which in themselves are capable of solving a bunch of problems. Or one 35 / 2.8 - with a stub and good macro capabilities.
In terms of capabilities for such a price for Nikon, and even his native, hardly anything can be advised.
Some cameras may adjust to the “wrong” lens. To do this, you need to find the focus adjustment in the camera and correct the focus. - This is from one theme of Arcadia.
I'm interested in the technology of this focus adjustment.
Arkady, please give a link to the article, how to correctly adjust the focus in the camera with a specific lens?
It is very simple. We take a ruler, put it vertically at an angle of 45 degrees on the table (for example, abut against the wall).
We take the camera, put it on the stop or a tripod at a distance of about 1 meter from the ruler. We must photograph the center of the ruler, say, the number 15 (if the ruler is 30 cm).
| \ —–> :: || camera
We set the manual mode, the lens has the most open aperture, the shutter speed is shorter, you can use the flash. In order to avoid displacement of the camera from its place, we do the descent either with the remote control or through a 2sec timer.
Further, the process is as follows:
1. We are guided by live view to the number 15 of the line, we take a picture. This will be your correctly focused shot.
The number 15 will be in sharpness, from which the sharpness will evenly fall at numbers 16 (the one that is farther) and 14 (the one that is closer to the camera). and so on. Live view will always focus correctly. We will see that the field of focus is around the number 15, gradually and evenly
goes into blur on the numbers before and after 15 cm.
2. We repeat, but not by live view, but through the optical viewfinder at the central point. In the second picture there may be such options:
A. Focused on 15, the real sharpness is just 15. As in the first photo. Its OK.
B. Focused on 15, real sharpness at 14 and closer. This is a front focus.
B. Focused on 15, the real sharpness turned out to be 16 and beyond. This is back focus.
3. Without moving the camera from a place, we climb into the AF-fine tune menu, make a correction of several units in one direction or another. Take a second shot through the optical viewfinder.
We look where the area of real sharpness has moved.
4. Repeat the procedure and test shots until the field of focus is in its proper place - the number 15 and the photo becomes identical to the very first photo via live view.
The correction value in the AF-fine tune at which this is achieved will be the correct correction.
The camera remembers this correction for each of the lenses.
Note. This is a method for adjusting fixes, for zooms, you will need to select the average focal length and make test measurements and corrections on it.
Thanks. The work is painstaking, but you need to try.
Question: as I understand it, we do this setting on an open aperture, and with well-closed apertures, the back and front focuses are not so pronounced?
Yes that's right
Yes, on a completely open, in order to level the effect of the diaphragm on the depth of field.
Painstaking work, I agree, but for once I did for my lenses several years ago and forgot. The camera stores individual settings and when installing the lens, automatically loads the desired profile. I have a Nikkor 50mm 1.8D which had solid soap at 1.8. After this adjustment, 1.8 became reasonably sharp.
Another question. How many units of correction were in your case (for interest)?
Everything is very individual, for different glasses from -18 to +6
Thanks again !
Good day! I purchased an adapter M-42 for your advice. EOS camera asks you to write the software update to the card
Good day.
Interesting situation.
Used Helios on Nikon through adapters M39 / M42 + M42 NikonF with a lens without a chip. The lens focused on infinity (the confirmation circle was on, the picture was moderately sharp)
I put Canon on the Canon M39 / M42 M42 without a chip. Infinity was, the picture was moderately sharp.
I put Canon M39 / M42 M42 Canon with a chip - focus confirmation worked, without it it was hard. But infinity was gone. And the focus sensor does not work, but the distance is difficult to determine + the sensor is very slow.
What is the name of the lens setting in this case? Is this also an adjustment or just need to look for other chips?
Also interesting, I heard that the chips wear out quickly and you need to buy them in reserve. Is it true?
Thanks in advance for your reply.
Good afternoon, Arkady.
Thank you for a great site.
My question is this: there is a nikon d3500 camera. Photography experience - 1 year. The first six months I practiced with the kit 18-55, then I made a not very successful purchase in the form of a Tamron 70-300 di ld macro. Nevertheless, he squeezed everything out of him.
Two months ago, on your advice, I bought the first high-aperture fix - nikon 35mm 1.8g. Compared to previous zooms - like heaven and earth. The quality of photos has become an order of magnitude higher, and the process of photographing itself has become incredibly pleasant. It's somehow more pleasant to work with fixes personally, and so I decided to expand the range of focal lengths by purchasing two prime lenses:
1. The new (in the sense of not used) nikon 50mm 1.8g. I’m going to buy this lens anyway, because
a. empirically found that the use of 85mm / 100mm on the crop in the premises is not too convenient for chest portraits
b. I hope sooner or later to switch to ff, then this lens can be used as a staffer
in. I really liked the lens itself and I’m sure that I can find various applications for it.
2. As the second lens I want to take an autofocus portrait. The choice is between the new Yongnuo 100mm F2 and used. Nikon 85mm 1.8g
In favor of the first one: price (I can take a new Nikon fifty dollars and this new yaga right now) and novelty. As for optical qualities, the lens is doing very well, as I understood from the reviews. Of the minuses, of course, Chinese.
Quality certainly plays in favor of the second, but there are also serious drawbacks for me: price (a used copy costs twice as much as a new yag) and second-hand. The fact is that I have never dealt with used photographic equipment. And I don’t have any familiar photographers who could help me choose the right copy. I'm afraid of cheating.
I ask Arkady and other knowledgeable people to help determine.
1. There is no special sense in 50mm when there is no 35mm, this issue is considered here
2. Definitely Nikon 85mm 1.8g
Hmm, well then, in principle, to the money that I could spend on the new nikon 50mm 1.8g and yongnuo 100mm 2, it will be easier to add $ 70 and buy a new 85mm 1.8g.
Thanks, Arkady.
Arkady hello. Go send pictures taken on the phone, let them check it out too
Let's