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Please note that for some questions I do not know the answers, or the answer requires 10 pages of text. When asking questions, try to formulate them correctly and in a detailed manner, honestly, neither I nor other readers of Radozhiva have telepathy and can not understand and even more so answer short, meaningless questions.
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I would start with a used one. This camera can be sold for the same money that you buy. This is if the hobby does not hook. And if you buy a new camera, then the sale will be with a loss of money.
I would start with a used one. This camera can be sold for the same money that you buy. This is if the hobby does not hook. And if you buy a new camera, then the sale will be with a loss of money.
Yes, it turned out funny)))
Guys, tell me, is there an adapter at all in nature to install a lens with a micro 4/3 mount (from Olympus OM-D) on a Nikon F camera? The search engines stubbornly give only the opposite result (so that the F lens can be installed on the camera with m4 / 3).
And if this does not exist, is it possible to dock through some other rings? And the main clarification, is there any sense in all of this, or does such a combination not lead to a normal result? Thank you and the request doesn’t hurt if the question seems pointless to you, I'm not so special in such matters
In short, forget it. And if it’s long then I’ll advise you to learn the materiel. Seriously, get it out of your head.
Where are we, beginners, to you, professionals! All of us, the near-minded, need to be taught, especially materiel. I will take note))))
Each lens has such a concept as the flange - this is the length from the plane of the mount to the plane of the matrix and the diameter of the image circle.
The micro 4/3 has a short flange focal distance, shorter than the Nikon F. This means that you can only focus with this lens at close distances. Can be corrected with an adapter with a lens due to a drop in image quality. Plus, micro 4/3 has a small image circle (because the matrix is small). This means that the edge of the image will be either very blurry or very dark - from vignette to completely black edges, even on an APS-C matrix. And even more so in the full frame.
That is, it is technically possible to make an adapter, even with a lens, and sprinkle an image. Practically, there is very little sense.
Thank you very much for the detailed answer! I thought so
Hello. Please tell me if the Nikon af-s teleconverter tc-20e iii will work with the Tamron SP 150-600mm F / 5-6.3 Di VC USD G2 Nikon F lens? Nikon d750 camera. Thank.
Judging by the documentation, no. https://imaging.nikon.com/lineup/lens/f-mount/teleconverters/af-s_tc-20e_3/ There may be undocumented features, but this is if someone tried it. Perhaps your question was precisely this
Perhaps the question was addressed to those who tried this combination, cap. It is logical that the manufacturer does not guarantee the operation of its equipment with third-party lenses, without disclosing the specifications of the mount, the operation of autofocus and other things.
A very significant addition
Hello, I bought a used Nikon d800, I noticed only later that there are no certain shutter speeds, for example 80,100,320, etc. Is this a feature of the model or a problem?
In modes M and S, the selection of these shutter speeds must be available to the user. Reset all settings to their defaults first, or pay attention to the menu items marked with asterisks, i.e. different from the default, you never know ...
eg exposure step ...
Hello! I’ll ask for advice, I choose between D200 and D300, which one is more suitable for shooting with low-cost carl zeiss ddr lenses (Sonnar, Biometar, Pancolar, etc.)? Thanks in advance.
d300, there is a live view, but it’s better to strain up and take d7000. And if you know a lot about color and are focused on artistic ideas, it’s better to use the Canon 5D classic, and indeed with Canon it’s easier to adapt these lenses than for Nikon.
.
It is clear that ff kenon is the first thing now the best choice when you need color for ridiculous money.
Is now Pokemon, Anatole, Vitaly V and other fanboy companies will not start to troll like dare to recommend canon 5d which is not Nikon and not even crop?
I added one of them to the black list there for conducting conversations with ourselves under different names
Maybe a person has a split personality, and you are so tough)
I hope this helps, otherwise it just became impossible to comment or express your opinion without this team of ancient Nikon lovers.
In the end, in 2019 there are many brands, systems for choosing besides Nikon ten years ago or a fuji of ghouls, which the Pokemon has simply been sick of.
Not to mention the fact that these trolls are often simply technically illiterate.
I am sure that the most trolling and flooding from Anonymous. It is Arkady who can see which IP each message is from. The rest have to guess which of the anonymous authors is writing the next portion of garbage. He seems to write smart things, then garbage. And how to make out who is who ... Therefore, there is nothing to be surprised at the attitude towards anonymous, if the post is not a question of a beginner.
So many, many times talked about registration. Ask Arkady again.
Vitaly, do not talk nonsense. Trolling and flood do not depend on the name, for fanboys the words: kenon, sony, mirrorless, and even worse micra, it is like a red rag for bulls.
All that is not nikon is bad for them, all that is not a SLR is a must-have, all that is not fujah ghoul or D40 is not a camera.
The funny thing is that this fraternity did not work with modern cameras and judging by their envy, it simply does not have money for something modern. So they come out with bile, such as why he corrupts the ibis as Pokemon and other nonsense said.
Pay less attention to names, and more to what is written.
You see, the Pokemon was drawn, Arkady was already tired of him, because he recommends the first steps:
. And if you know a lot about color and are focused on artistic ideas, it’s better to use the Canon 5D classic, and indeed with Canon it’s easier to adapt these lenses than for Nikon.
What do you consider me to be fanboys? Or is it another anonym? There is no registration, but is it so hard to write some sort of nickname? From the outside, this really seems to be the conversation of one person with himself. And who will guarantee that several people are not hiding under Pokemon or someone else? Which right there, under Anonymous, do not argue with themselves?
1) Registration is required at Radozhiv.
2) I do not have bots.
3) Fuji Ghoul I appeared this weekend.
4) I am not a fan of the ancient Nikons. I don’t have any (I'm talking about CCD and early CMOS)
And yes - I did not impose either s3pro or s5pro on anyone. Unlike lovers of first-timers and double-crop matrices. These characters are tired, yes.
c5pro - consider branching off from the Nikon system :)
Yes, but there is a very peculiar menu, much more difficult to understand than on S3Pro.
And there are also nuances with focusing - it’s not Nikonsky. Perhaps this is why, in addition to replacing the matrix filter from s3pro, another popular service among old Fuji repairmen is camera alignment.
Are you by chance not the Anonymous who Mikhail and who alone drowns here in Radozhiv for a double crop?
All the same, I really ask Arkady to think about introducing registration for leaving posts. Radozhiva should know her heroes. All the same, double-crop lovers are very perverse natures.
I suspect that Jura-Misha-Pakemen.
As expected.
No sooner had Arkady recommended Kenon first-hand, as Vitaliy P or Pokemon arranged a flood. And of course Pokemon against Kenon, who would doubt it.
I am not against Canon. I am against the junk. And against the advice of her newbies.
You FIRST drew after the post of Arkady and immediately accused us of flooding. NONE of us even commented on the post of Arkady! It's time to just ignore the posts of onanimas, as insane limited people.
Based on your thoughts, it follows that only the marketers trying to fit us in this year with a modern camera can. Everything else seems to be like undercamera already.
What side am I? Where and when was I against Kenon or other firms? I am against stubborn ononyms talking to themselves. So hard to identify yourself, ononym?
I have not trolled anyone yet for choosing 5D.
There are just few of them left in a decent condition. Better a second penny or one - they are stronger. And I'm not a fan of chasing cheapness.
Can really buy it from the Japanese, along with rotten from a fungus 28-70 / 2.8L？
Thank you so much! Canon is not considering because there is still glass and a flash on Nikon. In general - 300 or 7000, thanks again!
And here Mishanya showed up.
Misha, dear, about ibis, this was my advice FOR a novice girl.
You are our vindictive.
Misha, I have many different cameras and I can put them all together at once and take photos for you. In December last year I bought a new D750 for D4. What do you have Mishan? Mikra, huh?
That's why I ask Arkady to register. Here for people like you.
Or Yura. Who never figured out the difference between FR, EGF and changing the viewing angle with different matrices. Well, I have already sold the camera and is shooting with an iPhone ...
Now I am not surprised when photographers grin, hearing about Radozhiva. No one seems to be reading Arcadia's educational articles at all. And thanks to his gentle diplomacy, the nonsense written in the comments remains forever. More confusing for beginners. Because the writers did not read these materials either. We need either strict moderation, or a forum, or disable comments altogether. Let it remain only as a good database and knowledge.
Arkady, please do the mandatory registration.
It is desirable with the ability to specify links to flickr, social networks.
Or so you can leave comments from accounts of social networks such as Twitter / Facebook / VKontakte.
For example, at least how it was done on the photo gallery:
https://photar.ru/opublikovany-specifikacii-nikon-d760/
Arkady, everyone needs to be able to answer for their words.
I heard you. Anonymous come and go, a very zealous bath. By the way, so far everything is nice and to the point, a small flood out of the blue.
You can’t insult, politics and obscene language are prohibited, the transition to the individual is indicated here. Well, remember, the moderator / admin is always right, without any options.
Hello. I have a Nikon D5300. I need a lens for photographing rings and earrings on all photos for putting them up for sale in ebay. Which lens from YONGNUO can you recommend? I don’t understand lenses at all, I probably need autofocus.
What do you have? You need a macro lens, but, by and large, for decent photos it is better to do even with a whale lens and macro rings with or without autofocus (you can also focus using LiveView), and invest in backgrounds, a tripod and light. The macro rings will make it possible to shoot the rings closer (larger), the tripod will allow you to set any shutter speed and take pictures with large apertures like 11-13, where almost any lens gives good sharpness, and light ... Well, it will give good light. A 40x60 cm softbox on mercury lamps will be enough.
Roman, thanks for the answer. I have a whale 18-55mm and a tamron 18-270mm. I bought rings in China, but they were defective and did not fit, or rather 2 came up, and the third did not fit. There was no quality.
I would like to get something used to buy a new one on the same ebay or YONGNUO.
What do you mean by quality? Grease? Just a blurry image?
Under normal lighting conditions, with a tripod, with macro rings, with a delay in descent (because the camera is shaking, and for macro any minimal fluctuations are already blurry), the result will be quite decent.
The other day I saw a dude who spread a white burlap fotkal collectible badges. His lens was 18-55, plus a ring puff directly on the lens.
I’m wobblers, I shoot perfectly even with a 3,5 cm long 18-55 mm whale, but with two rings, the third turned out to be defective, there is no normal focusing, no details.
Leica M10. It seems nothing camera
Hello, I am fond of macro photography and would like to buy a tripod (as, probably, very good and very cheap for most) on Ali with a link to it. Thanks!
A good tripod should be heavy and stable. All cheap tripods are light and flimsy. More or less normal tripods in local online stores start at about $ 70 (for example, Velbon Sherpa250).
For the middle macro, you can use inexpensive macro rails, I have one, I took it for about $ 20- $ 30 (it was a long time ago, I don’t remember exactly). Without a macro rail, it is inconvenient to induce.
There are macro rails and a helicoid with Soviet lenses, there is also a Tamron macro lens, i.e. ready to shoot butterflies and spiders, but the thing is choosing a tripod. At the expense of the weight and stability of the tripod I agree. Thanks for the answer.
Hello dear DSLR photographers. Tell me how you deal with the dust on the matrix, because this is a real disaster. Tired of running around with napkins and mops before each shooting, like I cleaned everything, but after the shooting, a couple of "UFOs" will definitely appear in the sky. I understand that there is dust everywhere, in the mine, on the mirror, on the shutter curtains, and how many clean, after a few strokes of the mirror, she will definitely come. I'm already trying to shoot so that the sky falls into the frame less. The problem was so "got" that I had to buy an ancient Sony R1 with fixed optics and a large matrix. I agree, this is not a way out of the situation, but there is no dust and it's a thrill. If I were an engineer, I would design a camera with removable optics, but I would not build the matrix into the carcass, but into the lens. Each lens has its own matrix, there is no access to it, which means there is no dust. It seems to me that it was quite possible to implement it.
And how much will such a lens cost?
Firstly, the lens replacement technique should be such as to minimize the amount of dust entering the camera.
Secondly, because of their design, some lenses can pump dust inside, and you do not even need to remove this lens even once.
Thirdly, there is software dust removal (effects from dust) in the camera menu
Fourth, it strongly depends on the terrain - if your region is super dusty - then only a sealed box will help, like those in which they are filmed under water.
1. All of this is manifested on very closed diaphragms (landscape or studio)? 2. There is probably an easier and cheaper way - to cover the lens hole with protective glass. If I'm not mistaken, this is what the Sigma SD quattro did. True, this is the BZK.
The same thing is with the DS-1 Merrill DSLR.
And in canon eos R they also came up with something on this topic ...
As for the glass, it's brilliant! And most importantly, just ...
Try to change the lens quickly and accurately, while keeping the camera baunet down to the ground.
And at home, after shooting, also let it lie in the box with a bayonet down. Usually, in the boxes of the camera they are mounted upside down and all the dust falls on the matrix under the influence of gravity. After each shooting, blow out the lenses with a pear, and the glasses themselves should be under the filters. Try to change lenses as little as possible. Ideally put on the camera forever 24-70 or 70-200 and do not remove it for as long as possible.
Hello. Maybe someone will tell you. The nikon F90X camera has matrix metering. When it is installed, it is displayed on the screen, but at the moment of measurement (by pressing the shutter button), the matrix metering symbol starts blinking. With any other metering method, the symbol for the selected metering does not blink. The question is, why is he blinking?
Have you tried to read the instructions?
Dear friends,
recently encountered a strange feature of Fuji cameras with x-trans.
Look at the photo.
2 shots of the same scene with a Canon 550D and fujifilm x-m1.
The same sensitivity is set (ISO 400), the same metering (spot).
We used the same manual lens with the same aperture value.
As a result, 2 pictures were obtained with a very similar exposure (and histogram).
The only difference will be noticed by the attentive reader)
Fujifilm mirrorless camera with x-trans took a picture at 1/250, and Canon - 1/800 !!!
https://ibb.co/vHbq686
PS
He introduced the exposure correction at fuja -1/3 so that the histograms on both cameras were similar.
This is a long-known advertising setting for ISO in Fujas.
their ISO is non-standard, it differs from Kenon, Nikon, Sony, Olik and Panasonic by about 1.5 stops.
those. when Fuju draws ISO 400 for you, it’s actually ISO 150-ISO 200. which means that it really needs more light to get the same exposure as a kenon with real ISO400. hence, at canon 1/800, and fuj forced to put 1/250.
why did you do that? so that buyers sincerely believe that fuja has super quiet high ISOs))) because ISO is compared, which the camera shows on the screen and not what it is in reality.
You did a standard test, which just proves easily that for comparison in the forehead of kenon and fuja, the ISO of fujah should be overestimated by 1.5 stops. set ISO 800 or 1600 at fuja and compare with ISO 400 at kenon, get the same shutter speed with an accuracy error.
It turns out that Fuji is criminally lying to their customers?
Well, why is it criminal? Just drag out your camera. They were also seen in an unavoidable noise reduction in the RAV (like in the converter, all the sliders are 0, but in fact the picture is a bit bluish).
Misha, there is even a silent noise reduction even in ancient s5pro （jpg / raw）.
There is nothing terrible about it, maybe, and other manufacturers indulge in something similar on some models of their cameras.
In the converter and the settings of the Fuji camera, DO NOT set to leave 0 / std. You just need to open the manual to the camera and read with your eyes that you need to set -1 / -2 or org in the case of s5pro.
Yes, and I do not say that everything is terrible) It seems just the opposite wrote
Fujifilm S3 / S5 has no non-deactivable noise reduction systems.
As they are not in RAV files of other brands of other manufacturers.
Only Sony has but not noise but a hot / dead pixel removal system.
Non-disconnectable noise reduction in X trans is not a RAV file processing by the camera, but a command in RAV files for an editor who understands it, turn on its noise reduction when opening this RAV file.
Well, yes, the tag in exif. Wrong expressed. True, the end result is the same) It seems everything is turned off, and the noise is choking
noises will be choked only in the editor that supports this tag.
in Fujifilm s5 / s3 and in RAVs of other brands this is not.
This is the specificity of Fuj X trance and its variations with the usual Bayer matrix.
In S3Pro it is not, S5Pro it is.
Russian-language manual: pages 107 and 116.
Noise reduction item, std / org values.
An ORG value does not disable noise reduction.
-
In modern cameras, Fuji is always on by default. Even if the value is 0. You can set the noise reduction range from -2 （-1） to +2. A value of -2 does not guarantee its shutdown, but only minimizes its activity.
And all the more or less popular converters support this tag.
Pokemon, you don’t understand what is NON-DISABLED shumodav.
Let me explain - this is when it cannot be turned off by ANY settings.
Fujifilm S3 / S5 do not have this tag, it is as part of the profile settings and even then not in all profiles. Those. This is a DISABLED shumodav.
And almost all editors open the Fujifilm S3 / S5 RAVs without turning on noise reduction.
Michael, yes, you are right.
Hence the endless fables of not very knowledgeable amateur photographers about the clean, high ISO of Fujai.
Although this is just a shifted ISO of 1.5 stops and the work of noise reduction.
Absolutely the same noise level produces any camera with the same matrix from Sony.
Alexander, I don’t see the OFF preset opposite the Noise Reduction item in Fujah.
I always work in staff rav converters recommended by the camera manufacturer. There is Silkypix for everyone, but I rarely use it.
I am a simple person and some tags are not interesting to me.
What I understand, but I do not want to fool. If the full-time developer and the camera do not allow the noise canceling to be turned off, then Allah is with him too, which means that the manufacturer has conceived this way and that means the noise canceling is turned off.
why are they lying? no ISO standard. everyone considers ISO as he wants.
Specifically, the Fuji X trans system:
- X trans filter does not give any advantages, but it reduces the image resolution by reducing pixels in the green channel
- ISO shifted by 1.5 stops in relation to other brands
- the standard Sony matrix is used
- tags for enabling the noise reduction system are used in RAV files even if you disabled it in the settings. It is checked by the standard test of opening a PAB file in an editor that does not support these tags / commands
- by default, it generously pours magents to the brim, so the files require serious post-processing.
- Nothing in common with the old Fujifilm S3 / S5 in color.
S3Pro color (BB auto, wide2, color-high, tone std / hard) is sometimes similar to the standard profile of the same X100T / X100F.
Specially filmed in parallel.
The Skinton S3 / S5 succeeds better, more precisely.
I have S3 / S5 and X100T.
S5Pro more accurately conveys shades of yellow, red, blue and orange than S3Pro.
The color profile is more precisely configured. The case spoils the thick filter, 6 times thicker than the S3Pro. For replacing the filter on the S5Pro matrix with a thinner one, they ask 200 bucks.
All colors of all cameras are a little similar and even sometimes coincide.
Because they use the same color space with a similar color gamut.
In practice, people do not see the difference when the color error reaches 25% -30%.
Fujifilm S3 / S5 have standard color accuracy for CCD matrix. It is no better and no worse than the Nikon D40, for example, and noticeably worse than the best CMOS matrices.
Actually and the question: "What do you think, what is this connected with?"
Thanks in advance for your comments.
So can spot metering fool around?
There was such a thought.
But the final picture looks similar.
Interestingly, it would be necessary to check your Samsung NX, the other day, the spouse will return from a trip with him.
I do not advise. As one smart man said; "If it's not broken, don't try to fix it."
Hello.
Understood.
Maybe someone will be interested.
Indeed, in priority modes, the camera tries to make the picture brighter by offering a slower shutter speed.
However, if you set the same parameters in M mode, the exposure in the pictures is very similar.
I came to the conclusion that one of the readers was right, most likely the matter is in the metering mode.
On the other hand, it is completely incomprehensible on what the comments of some citizens are based on the fact that ISO in underestimated / overstated.
Good luck to everyone.
or maybe I'm wrong again? )))
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1q_29pbPWc98zLlQvnPb_XsE6bQNxELjh?usp=sharing
Good afternoon. I could not find a review of the CanonSX 130is. Is there an opportunity to leave your versatile opinion. I know that in it you can change the software and it can shoot in RAW, is it necessary? I photograph rarely. Thank.
We have the SX150 in stock. I dabbled with RAW - of course, you can stretch more than with JPEG, but you have to additionally struggle with geometric distortions (in jpeg, the camera rules them automatically and on the fly). The level of detail is slightly better than on a smartphone five years ago (along the edges - noticeably better). Zoom pleases.
As for me, the camera has one, but a very serious disadvantage - it is very picky about batteries. Even on good "ready_to_use" batteries it does not work for long, after a few hundred shots (or even less) it shows that they are planted (despite the fact that the flash on them gives more than one thousand puffs).
There is a Nikon d5100 that seems to be fine with everything, but now there is a desire to change to d7100 or d7500. What advise the knowledgeable and experienced.
D7200
If everything suits, then why change it?
The keyword is "like", and so, maybe they have more opportunities (?).
there is no particular sense in such a replacement. What goals do you want to achieve with such a replacement? what is the budget?
There was a desire to change - this is not a purchase criterion. Need moisture protection. Need a bigger matrix. It is very noisy at high ISO, and you have to shoot a lot in poor lighting conditions. Need faster autofocus. Or a screwdriver to park old lenses. Need Wi-Fi / Bluetooth. Or all this at once. Or in some combinations. Then come from needs. In all other cases, it makes no sense.
D7100, at the moment the best ratio of price to quality. The management is much more convenient than the D5100.
If we consider new devices (rather than used ones), then the D7200 costs almost the same, while with a buffer it has better + WiFi.
Why change if the meaning of the replacement is unknown?
If you have extra money - buy optics or flowers for your beloved. Or go to relax by the sea. Enough for that.
Lyokha! Thanks for the advice, I have the same opinion.
Alexander! There are enough glasses, I just wanted to buy a camera so as not to change the optics back and forth during the shooting. The south, of course, is good, only it is contraindicated to me.
To all who took part in this short conversation / advice - thank you from the bottom of my heart and all the best!
Hello! I will ask for advice on which of the two lenses to choose - Carl Zeiss DDR Sonnar 300 4 (zebra) Or Meyer Optic Orestegor 300 4. Thanks in advance.
None of them. Old TVs are not an option. The light transmittance of these two is small, and they themselves, due to the medium format past, are heavy and inconvenient. Of the old three hundred, it makes sense only in tair-3, and it's not a fact that you will come across a successful copy.
If it’s about crop, some kind of dark zoom like 55-250 for Canon or 55-300 for Nikkor will be much more practical. Well, 70-300 for a full frame. I do not think that the difference in price will be so significant compared to these monsters, but the benefits are not an example anymore. Smaller, lighter, with autofocus, sharper. The aperture ratio is compensated by the stub, and a blur of 5,6 is very good. You will play with the same garbage and put it on the shelf or you will look for a buyer.
If you read English, there is a lot on the Web about the “battle of the old three hundred millimeters”. For instance:https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/4389592
http://forum.mflenses.com/300mm-battle-t7048.html
It makes sense to take Zonnars only if you like the Zonnar picture in principle. And not everyone likes it ...
Comrades commenting, this is a question-answer topic, not a place to flood
Hello to experts.
Nikon D600 Meike 950.
Please advise the synchronizer ... I would like to try softbox ... umbrella ...
Simple and reliable - Yongnuo 603-II
TTL needed?
Most likely it is not necessary for an umbrella.
On the other hand, it seems like Nikon CLS holds ...
in indirect visibility, the CLS may not fly (and even at an acute angle in line of sight)
There is little initial data, so let the author of the question read it, maybe apply something ...
Guys, do not tell me what kind of tripod you can buy on Ali for macro photography, probably, like most - of high quality and not very biting at the price (up to 4 tons). If possible, give a link. Thank you to everyone who answered!
Manfrotto PIXI Evo, I really like it, costs about 50%.
50$
Thanks for the answer, Alexey, I’ll look now.
Too small for filming in the field / forest.
Together with the camera, once, I immediately bought this tripod pribluda for 1000 rubles. Then, for my birthday, I presented the same three-legged goner, who was as good as a dog’s fifth leg. And then I went my own way. I took bought Manfrotto 190 made in italy.
That's all, now I don’t have any problems with shooting at least in height, at least in macro.
Comrades experienced photographers, recently changed the system to Sony a6400, there is a wonderful width from sigma 16 / 1.4. Now I can’t decide on portrait glass, because I want manual, vintage, but there are so many that it’s very difficult to decide. Comrades experienced photographers, advise a good portrait lens, you can manual (even desirable).
So far, Kamlan 50 / 1.1, Helius 44-2, Asahi Super Takumar 50mm f1.4, Zuiko 50mm f1.4
Portrait - from 70mm
Good afternoon,
I will be grateful for the advice
I am a user of the Nikon D7000 camera (Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G optics and Nikon AF-S Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.4G optics), before that I used the olympus c-5060 wide zoom.
I want to go to full frame. I photograph mostly my family and on tour trips, occasionally everything "for the soul."
I am considering a D750, or used but pro. D800
I practically do not process photos in editors, I try to make them “live”.
I think for your type of shooting and the D610 will be enough.
What does "practically do not process" mean? If that means you're not shooting RAW, is there any point in replacing it?
It looks like Vitaly is fatally lucky with light - there are no overexposures, no shadows need to be drawn, no colors should be corrected to bright ones. Very advantageous in terms of time. And the meaning of the replacement is still there.
But as stated above - in this case, the D610 is enough, why take a professional one?
Optics for a full frame, you consider that not. I would be in your place switched to FF BZK