When photographing, along with the settings excerpts, aperture, ISO and image quality, one of the most important parameters for a SLR camera is the correct setting of the focus mode and method.
Focus on Nikon
Nikon has many focus options with different combinations of focus modes and focus areas. Usually focusing on modern Nikon DSLR cameras occurs when pressing the shutter button halfwayor by pressing the dedicated AF-ON button.
Focus Modes:
'AF-S' or 'S' (Auto Focus Single) - focus mode camera, in which the camera, when the shutter button is pressed halfway, focuses on focus, and when a successful aim is achieved, it stops focusing. Once pressed - once focused... In the manuals for cameras, the mode is often translated as'Single AF Tracking'. To change the aiming accuracy, release the button and press it again. The mode is suitable for static scenes.
Focus mode switch Nikon D700. The same is available on cameras Nikon D300, D300s, D200, D1, D2, D3 etc.
'AF-C' or 'C' (Auto Focus Continuous) - tracking continuous (continuous) mode of automatic focus of the camera (in the instructions it is often translated as'Continuous AF Tracking'). When the shutter button is pressed halfway, the camera constantly tries to focus correctly. Pressed the button - and the camera constantly monitors the focus. A very useful mode when subjects are moving or composition changes.
AF-A (Auto Focus Automatic) - automatic focus mode selection camera. In this mode, the camera can choose to work in AF-S or AF-C mode. Basically, all amateurs shoot in AF-A mode and often do not even suspect the presence of other modes. I noticed that the mode AF-A more often behaves like the AF-S mode.
AF-A, AF-C, AF-S mode selector on Nikon D90
AF (auto focus) - general auto focus mode. The mode is enabled on the camera itself, not to be confused with the 'A' mode on the lens itself.
AF focus mode switch (lever) on the camera
MF (manual focusing) - manual focus camera... The mode is activated using the camera menu. Usually only cameras without a focus motor have this mode. In this mode, you need to manually rotate the focusing ring on the lens to achieve correct focusing. On the one hand: manual focus can be difficult for beginners, on the other hand: it is A vital focus method for advanced photographers and professionals. Manual focus on the CZK is one of the major advantages over conventional digital cameras (soap dishes). Very often, the automation of the camera and the lens cannot determine how to focus correctly and to achieve optimal focus, just switch to manual mode and point the camera manually for precise focus.
Focus Mode Switch Using the Nikon D5100 Camera Menu
M (M - manual focusing) - manual focus on the lens or on the camera. Same as MF. Attention: Not all lenses have a focus mode switch, such as a lens Nikon 50mm f / 1.8D AF Nikkor It has no focus switches at all. It's important: in order to switch to manual focus mode MF with a lens that does not have a focus mode switch, you need to switch the focus lever to mode M on a camera with a focus motor; on a camera without a focus motor, only the MF mode with such a lens will always be available. About different types of lenses and cameras is described in detail in the section Nikon Lens Differences.
Lens with focus mode switch and lens without focus mode switch
A (Auto) - auto focus mode lens. In this position of the focus switch on the lens, only automatic focusing with the lens is available. Attention: not all lenses have such a focus operation switch, for example, the switch on the lens is shown below Nikon 85mm f / 1.4D AF Nikkor.
Example of a manual or auto focus lens
M / A (autofocus with manual override) - automatic focusing lens with priority of manual control. Attention: not all lenses have this focus mode, the example below shows the switch on the lens Nikon 85mm f / 1.4GN AF-S Nikkor. This mode implies auto focus with instant manual focus adjustmentand the lens does not need to be set to focus mode 'M'. You can read more about this mode. here.
This is how the switch of focus modes on the lens with support for MA-M mode looks
AF-F (Full Time Servo Auto Focus) - continuous tracking focus mode for video shooting. Attention: This focus mode is only available on modern cameras with the ability to record video. This mode does not work when taking pictures. Usually you cannot find the mode in the menu AF-F, it is only available in live view when entering the info menu. This is a very useful mode, it allows you to record with constant auto focus. This mode is available only in cameras starting from Nikon D3100.
AF-F mode for shooting video
Important: due to the fact that all Nikon CZKs have different controls and different menus, each camera switches its focus mode in its own way. In the general case, M, AF, S, C is responsible for choosing the focus mode switch near lens mount for cameras with a focus motor and settings in the menu of the camera itself. For non-powered cameras, the focus mode is selected only through the camera menu. Different combinations of settings for different types of cameras are shown in the diagrams above.
Damn important: if you use a camera with a focus motor, and on it is a lens with auto focus but without a focus motor and without a focus mode switch on the lens itself, for example, a bunch Nikon D90 (camera with motor) and lens Nikon 85mm f / 1.8D AF Nikkor (without focusing motor and without focusing mode switch) - for manual focusing, be sure to switch the lever near the camera mount to the 'M' position, otherwise when focusing manually can damage the camera.
A number of cameras from Nikon have a built-in rangefinder (focus indicator in the viewfinder). The rangefinder in the viewfinder can tell in which direction you need to rotate the focus ring on the lens in order to achieve the correct focus. The range finder works both with automatic and manual focusing. Rangefinder is in the cameras Nikon D3100, D5100, D700 etc. In general, on older lenses that could not focus automatically, there is a special focusing scale, which indicates the distance to the focusing object. It's a pity when using the old AI-S optics on younger Nikon cameras, the rangefinder refuses to work. With manual optics, the rangefinder only works on older Nikon cameras.
The principle of operation of the electronic rangefinder
On any Nikon CLC camera, the green circle in the viewfinder in the lower left corner of the viewfinder is responsible for the accuracy of focusing on the selected focus point. When it is on, this means that the sharpness at the selected point is normal. The green dot (focus confirmation point) is an indispensable tool when working with old class lenses AI-S and similar, for example, such as Nikon 100mm F / 2.8 Series E MF
A green dot that confirms correct focus
Advanced cameras have fine-tuning the focus: Release priority and Focus priority in AF-C and AF-S mode.
Usually in AF-C mode, the choice is:
- FPS frequency - the shutter release is more important for the camera than the focusing accuracy, this is called release priority
- FPS + AF frequency - the shutter is more important for the camera, but it also takes into account the focusing accuracy (not available on all cameras)
- Focus - the focus is more important for the camera, not the shooting speed.
Using the priority setting, you can set what is most important when shooting - focus, and then release the shutter, or release the shutter and ignore focus. I set AF-S priority to focus priority mode, AF-C to shutter priority mode.
Setting Focus Priorities
Important Note:
Younger Nikon cameras do not support shutter priority mode (release priority). The exact list of cameras, as well as other useful information on limiting priorities, can be found in the section “Unpleasant restriction of Nikon entry-level cameras and its solution", As well as in the section"Restructuring AF-S, AF-C modes when working with an external flash. Features Focus Focus".
Live View
live view allows you to turn a complex SLR camera into an ordinary soap box, that is, you can focus (photograph) using the large display of the camera itself, and not through the optical viewfinder (peephole). In Live View, focus is based on contrast. This method is much slower for normal focusing through the optical viewfinder. Moreover, the difference in focusing speed in Live View mode and through the optical viewfinder can be tens of times. Some cameras have two focusing modes in Live View mode. The first one is “tripod” focusing, it is done as on conventional digital cameras (dichotomously, in contrast). Second, you can frame the frame through Live View, but when you press the shutter button to focus, the camera turns off Live View, focuses through the usual focusing system, and then turns on Live View again or takes a picture. For a simple description of how Live View works, see Dmitry Evtifeev’s blog.
How Live View Works
Important:
camera Nikon D700 и Nikon D300 in Live View and Tripod sub-modes, focus only when AF-ON button is pressed.
Focus Points and Focus Areas
Each camera has a different number of points and areas through which it can focus. A special module is responsible for focusing in the camera, which is located at the bottom of the camera’s mirror. The focusing module just calculates the phase values, on the basis of which it gives a command to perform focusing. In fact, modern central control valves have two mirrors, the second mirror serves to perform focusing through the focus module, in more detail here... Usually, a focusing module consists of a certain number of points (zones) on which focus analysis is performed. For 2012 Nikon has cameras with 3, 5, 11, 39, 51 focus points. The number of points affects the usability and focusing accuracy of the camera. You can read in more detail about focus systems on Nikon cameras.
The image shows the focus point where focus is achieved.
For working with focus points, the settings are responsible. AF-area mode.
- Automatic (auto-area AF), denoted as a white rectangle. Focuses on the closest subject using all available points.
- Dynamic (dynamic-area AF), focusing works on only one point, but takes into account information with adjacent points
- Single Point AF, focuses on only one point.
- Additional: 3D-tracking, or the choice of several zones. Such settings are not available on all cameras and often they are sub-functions of the dynamic focus area selection.
Points and focus method: AF-S single point
Important:
It’s very convenient to set the choice of the focus area method for amateur and advanced amateur cameras using a soft key (as I did on Nikon D90) This will allow you to quickly switch between focusing on a single point, automatic zone selection, dynamic mode, 3D tracking, etc. On Nikon professional and flagship cameras, a special zone switch is provided, which simplifies the work with professional equipment.
Attention:
in manual focus mode (M, MF), only one focus point is available.
Important:
A number of cameras can show in the image at which point or group of points the focus was performed. When viewing a picture, you can activate a mode in which the focus points are indicated by squares. This mode is supported only by professional cameras of the type D200, D300 and all full-frame. This is convenient because when setting up a quick preview of the image on a 1 to 1 scale, scaling is done exactly at the focus point at which the shooting was performed. This allows you to quickly check and select good sharp pictures. On advanced amateur and amateur cameras, to view the correct focusing, press the zoom button, and then use the selector to find the area in the image by which focus was performed. If your camera does not have a function that shows at which point the focus was performed, you can use ViewNX, which comes with the camera. Focus points can be displayed on the computer display. This is sometimes very helpful. In the sample photos, I just copied the work of ViewNX 2.
Important:
ViewNX only displays focus points on the computer when the picture was taken in AF-A, AF-S, AF-C modes with focus priority. If AF-S, AF-C with shutter priority is selected, the program will show focus points only if the camera was sure that the focus was correct.
Important:
Not all Nikon cameras allow you to change the area and type of focus when using the automatic modes (green mode). In modes P, A, S, M, everything can be customized to your taste.
Single point focus. AF-C focus mode
Focus point loop function
This function simply allows you to move the focus point in a circle, thus looping it around. When the rightmost point is selected, when you press the selector right, the focus point will go to the leftmost position. This function simply allows you to speed up the work when focusing on a single point.
Wide and standard focus area
In some cameras, you can choose a wide focus area, in contrast to the usual. A wide focus area reduces the number of focus points (zones). For example, for Nikon D200 With 11 focus points, 7 wide areas are created. Optically in the viewfinder, the zones will be larger in size than the dots. This sometimes simplifies the work with the camera.
Focus adjustment (alignment)
Sometimes the lens may malfunction and focus behind the subject (back) or in front of the focus object (front). In the people, such a lack of lenses is called back focus, front focus (back and front focus). Some cameras may adjust to the “wrong” lens. To do this, you need to find the focus adjustment in the camera and adjust the focus. Only have tuning Nikon D300, D300s, D500, D7000, D7100, D7200, D7500, D700, D750, D780, D800e, D800E, D810,D810a, D3, D3s, D3x, D4, D4s, D5, Df, D600, D610.
Focusing with Dark Lenses
Almost all Nikon cameras can focus without problems automatically only when using lenses with apertures up to F / 5.6. This is indicated in the camera manual. When using lenses with a smaller aperture, such as the Tamron 28-300mm F / 3.5-6.3 XR Di VC LD Asph (IF) Macro, it may be difficult to focus on the F / 6.3 aperture. Also, when using teleconvertersthat decrease the effective aperture value of the converter lens, focusing problems may also occur. Only a few cameras can focus without problems with F / 8.0 lenses. The limitation is related to the number of focus points that can work normally at F / 5.6-F / 8.0. You can find more details about which cameras and which focus points (zones) are used to work with 'dark' lenses here.
Single-point focusing with the Nikon D2Xs
Cross-shaped focus points (sensors) vs regular focus points
How many times I didn’t use one-point focusing, I did not find the difference in the quality of focusing using the cross-shaped point and the usual focusing point. Basically, cross-shaped focus points (sensors) are said to do a much better job of focusing than regular focus points. It is generally accepted that cross-shaped focus points are better at handling 'wire against sky' scenes.
Focus light
Nikon cameras have a special light bulb that helps focus in dark conditions. The light bulb simply illuminates the subject in focus and autofocus is easier to focus on. The backlight may not come on in AF-C mode. The focus light is often called the “spotlight” and is recommended to be turned off. Personally, I have the backlight turned off, but in poor lighting conditions I use a flash that has its own "red spot" with a long range. More details about the flashlight in photo tricks section.
Focus light
Important:
Some Nikon CLCs for some reason do not illuminate the subject with the AF-assist lamp in single-point focus mode, if a non-central point is selected. As far as I know, all Nikon cameras provide auxiliary illumination with a lamp in single-point focus mode, if the center focus point is selected.
Important:
Flagship Niko camerasn such as Nikon D1, Dh, D1x, D2h, D2x, D2hs, D2xs, D3, D3s, D3x, Df, D4, D4s, D5 do not have a focus assist lamp at all.
Interesting:
Nikon cameras can be implemented very simply focus trap.
AF-S single-point focusing mode
My experience and recommendations on focusing on Nikon cameras can be found here.
Is everything complicated and little understood?
Then just turn on AF-A and the icon with a rectangular focus area. Automation copes well with the main tasks. I recommend fully automatic focusing for home use. Sometimes fine-tuning the modes of the focus points does not justify itself.
Which Nikon camera focuses best?
Focus best Nikon D5 and Nikon D500 with the most advanced focus modules.
Comments on this post do not require registration. Anyone can leave a comment. Many different photographic equipment can be found on AliExpress.
Conclusions:
Learning how to deal with focus modes will help you more accurately and quickly achieve the desired result. I strongly recommend experimenting with the modes and focus areas on your camera.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram
How to remove the red box from the monitor, tell me pzh. Nikon d7000.
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While watching? Disable focus points in the playback menu.
In live view? In the camera settings, the easiest way to turn off auto focus.
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Thanks so much for the article. Learned for yourself useful.
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Good afternoon, how many focus points to choose for a portrait, shooting children, for example, explain?
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For a portrait, select one focus point and focus on the eyes.
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Hello dear Arkady and visitors to the site. I am writing a comment for the first time and am worried. Therefore, please do not throw rotten tomatoes immediately, but wait a little. Immediately I want to express my gratitude to you Arkady. Thank you for this wonderful site. It is like a “Bible” for amateur photographers. I read a lot of your articles and if there is any hitch in the understanding of this or that, I immediately go to the site and look for answers. For me personally, you are the unquestioned authority of a professional photographer. And it is separately worthy of respect that you do not hit the table with your fist with the words: “Since I said so, it means that it’s not subject to appeal,” but you can admit that somewhere, an inaccuracy was once made and corrected in further with reference to the material, for example, as was the case with the 'AM' switch on lenses such as Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G. And now to the point ... And so about myself: a very, very long time ago Canon PowerShot A520 (excellent macro), a very long time Sony Cyber-shot DSC-R1 (Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T * + FP fill-in internal flash up to 1/2000 s ) I’d still shoot, but it’s been stolen, for several years Nikon D90 + Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G liked everything, I thought I would shoot it until the end of my life, but also stole it. I almost died of resentment. I really wanted to buy a Nikon D7100 (without an OLPF filter, plus 1,3x framing and a dozen more pluses), but I didn’t pull it. Took, a couple of months ago, Nikon D90 + Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G, with hands. It was lucky that same year and with the same mileage (16000 vs 18000), all the more, everything that was left over from the former remained. I did not notice the difference in focusing between these two cameras. Absolutely identical cameras, as in impressions. Autofocus is fast, with extremely rare misses. Previously, I used the AF-S focus mode all the time and it suited me in almost all leisurely tasks. You have a D90 review, there is a photo of a guy jumping into the water, he was shooting on the AF-S in the same way and the result was fine. And now I decided to try to shoot dynamic scenes. He switched to AF-C "Dynamic" and "3D tracking." It seems to be 3D more interesting, since the focus points are visible and they do not disappear, as, for example, in the "Dynamic". But, when I tried to shoot my dog for “3D tracking”, which rushes into my forehead, it turned out that my autofocus, as it were, to put it right, does not keep up with the dog. I'm not talking about shooting with wiring, but rather about the speed of the tracking autofocus. I shot it on a sunny morning, in the rate of fire, at a shutter speed of 1/400 - 1/800, aperture f / 7.1 - f / 9. Result: everything is in focus, but not the dog. I became and I think: maybe there is something with autofocus in this lens, and I went nuts with the purchase of a used camera? What is the difference between Dynamic AF and 3D Tracking? And is there any difference in the focusing speed of these modes? According to you, “3D tracking” is like a sub-item or sub-function of the “Dynamic” zone mode. That is, one follows from the other. In the menu, these items are separate. You can choose either this or that. I think to myself: if Nikon came up with such a wonderful mode as “3D tracking”, then why did you need to leave “Dynamic”? And if left, then not in vain? He climbed into the "Bible", but could not really figure it out, excuse me. I only understood that this is a tracking mode, and when tracking, not only the distance to the object, but also the color (contrast) is taken into account. Useful in the instructions p. 173: Dynamic zone selection - the default value for the Sport mode. 3D tracking (11 points) - used to compose images when shooting relatively stationary objects. That is, not everything is the same with autofocus speed in these modes. I began to search further, on the Internet, and came across the following information: “If we compare the“ Dynamic AF ”and“ 3D tracking ”modes, then in the first case a certain number of points will be used, and in the second - all available ones to monitor the subject. Moreover, “Dynamic AF” activates certain “zones”, activating only! surrounding focus points (as much as we chose in the settings). For example, we selected 9 points, tracking will work as long as the subject is in the zone of 9 focus points surrounding the main one. If the subject leaves this area, the camera will not be able to focus. But in the 3D tracking mode, the camera will continue to observe the object (the newly selected points will be displayed in the viewfinder), even if it significantly moves away from the originally selected point. Professionals use the dynamic autofocus mode during photo hunting for birds and wild animals, using a small number of points: 9 or 21 pieces. There are different opinions regarding 3D tracking, because it is not as fast as with, for example, 9 points of dynamic AF. ” I don’t know whether it’s true or not, because I’m not a professional, and therefore I turn to the question: So, is there any difference in the speed of autofocus in “Dynamic AF” and “3D tracking”? It is one thing to follow the racing Formula 1 car, and another for a white heron, slowly walking, against the background of green reeds. I understand that you are busy on photoshoots and I know about your dream to add another review, but there may be time to answer. Thank you all for your attention. Sorry, that a lot of beech.
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Good day. No need to apologize. Do not confuse the concepts of tenacity and speed. The speed will be similar in the same simple conditions, but with the tenacity and vision of the object will be different options.
If you answer quickly, then you should get used to each mode on each camera, and most importantly - learn to achieve the desired result by hook or by crook.
My practice shows that the “one point” or “one area (point + auxiliary side by side” mode) captures the object most of all. 3D tracking, dynamic selection, etc. on younger cameras may not cope with complex tasks.
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Thank you for such a quick response. I got used to AF-S at one point. Now I will try to get used to AF-C. I made a small conclusion for myself: “Dynamic” for high-speed objects, and “3D” for slow movement in the frame or for recomposition of the frame. Although on the AF-S, from the summer, it is not difficult to catch, for example, a seagull at low level. I will try. Thanks again for the Bible. Great site. All the best to you. Thanks.
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The fact is that 3D-tracking is almost an automatic mode, it works on the difference in color between the object and the background. If this difference is small or the subject is small, the automation may not cope with its task. The same goes for the choice of a large number of focus points (21, 51). Therefore, in difficult cases, it is preferable to use the usual 9-point dynamic focus area selection or generally single-point focusing. Naturally, it is necessary to "guide" the subject in the focusing area yourself.
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Thanks for the help Alexey. In my case, there are only 11 points in the camera. I cling to the object with the central point, and 8 people around me help, in “Dynamic” mode. And I try not to let go beyond these points. It is clear. Does it matter, for example, if I have a wide focus point area instead of a normal area? When the normal zone, there are 11 points, and if the wide zone - 7 zones. Maybe I was stupid ...
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Sorry for the vlaziyu, but I have extensive experience in shooting animals in dynamics (mainly dogs) in different conditions and angles. I shot with D90 for about 10 years, so I can say for sure that it is optimal to use AF-C and single-point focusing in the situation you described. 3D tracking and / or focusing on several points does a poor job with this task. In fact, getting used to focusing on one point is not at all difficult - in portraits of dogs I aim at the eyes, in stands at the ribs (a little closer to the shoulder blade), in dynamics at the dog's chest - there are almost never misses, although I shoot a lot. In fact, there are a lot of specifics in shooting dogs - you can read about this on special sites for shooting dogs specifically). Sharp frames for you!
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I’ll add, with your permission.
I will publish a sports report. The object is always in motion. The perspective is constantly changing. Conditions are usually at the limit of technology.
So, I never use 3D mode in AF-C, even in flagship models it does not cope with my tasks. Dynamic mode only. The number of points already depends on the situation, here you need to shoot yourself and understand what are the best options.
It is very important to learn how to choose the right place on the object where you will focus. This also comes with experience, but in general, you need to try to find the most contrasting details, and keep the AF point there when the subject moves.
Well and most importantly, do not hesitate to press the AF button more often. It is often easier for the camera to focus again than to take the subject.
There is one caveat. I shoot on prof. lenses. How this business will work with whale or dark telezoom, I can only guess.
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Thanks Peter. I get it. Reaping the descent is not shy. I shoot in bursts. But from a distance of 20 meters, from which my York starts, and to me, it flies in 3 seconds. I manage to focus and scribble. It’s difficult, of course, to keep it in the viewfinder. Very brisk, dog. And the result is deplorable. I will train. Thanks for the help.
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I do the same. Thanks.
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It’s strange. I wrote a comment here a week ago, with a picture, but he never appeared here.
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If there were two pictures (attached using links or insertion codes), then they most likely got accidentally in spam (and not in the pending confirmation section) and were deleted (there are about 200 comments in spam per day, this section is not checked by me). I apologize for the inconvenience.
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Good afternoon!
Please tell me who can. I bought nikkor 35-70 f2.8
The whole village is as expected, but does not take pictures in all AF modes (AF-C AF-A AF-s) M also does not give out a specific “scoop”. Focusing in AF mode does not occur, only the focus illuminator lights up and that's it.
Aperture displays FEE value blinking. Tell me please.
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You need to bring the aperture ring all the way to F / 22.
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Thanks for the answer! Summed up, it still doesn't work. What can be I do not understand.
When you insist on focusing on mechanics, you hear a specific sound of focus, but do not take pictures.
Tell me, is this a problem in the lens or in the carcass?
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Most likely in the lens.
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Aperture ring lock switched?
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First of all, thank you for the answers, though the best site!
When I put nikkor 35-70 f2.8 on Nikon D90 the aperture value is exactly “FEE” on the display
i.e. there is no contact (connection) with the lens. I tried to clean the contacts, alcohol did not help (I didn’t take it internally))
There is a crack on the body of the carcass, it means there was a fall and it means that contacts may be displaced (other damage not visible)
What is remarkable on the Canon 5 mark with an adapter works! So the owner declared. But on my Nikon d90 alas.
ps
set the aperture to znac. 22 does not help
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Or as suggested to me, the snag may be
“Most likely you have a broken aperture rheostat lever on the carcass. And the camera does not see the position of the lens aperture ring. ”
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Look at the pictures, what leverage looks like, compare with yours. Aperture at 22, the rheostat should be pressed when the lens clicks. The jump lever should also work. Other lenses are, how do they behave? Well, or take it to the service, there the verdict will be issued faster.
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On the D90, not a rheostat, but an EE lever, thismaybe it is not pressed.
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Try resetting the camera to factory settings.
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Carcass Nikon D90
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The other day, Nikon D3100. This is my first experience after two years with Canon (600D, 450D), it was so unusual to feel the menu on another system, especially at a limited time before shooting. I quickly dealt with semi-automatic modes, but in order to study the operation of auto iso and autofocus, I had to surf the Internet.
In general, I realized that each system has its poles and minuses in terms of the convenience of buttons and algorithms for the software, and it is useful to get acquainted with another system :)
Thanks for the article, Arkady!
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Hello! Help me please. Today I bought a d610 camera and I can't figure out the problem: autofocus does not work. Levers for switching focusing modes on the camera and on the lens - on the auto mode. Focus mode is not displayed at all in the control panel. With all this, you can take pictures in manual mode.
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Try turning the camera off, detaching and attaching the lens.
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Nothing changed.
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Is the mode wheel not on the green zone?
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I don’t understand which wheel and zone are in question.
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Is there another lens? Are there the same problems with him?
Well, leaf through the instructions at least diagonally to know where which buttons are and what they are responsible for in your camera. Still, the D610 is not an entry-level camera, it goes for advanced users, so before buying and using it is necessary to more or less understand the technical issues of photo-making.
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I had in mind the mode dial and the green fotik icon on it.
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Have you solved this problem? My Nikon d7000 is also not displayed in autofocus mode.
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Read the instructions
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A number of cameras can show in the image at which point or group of points the focus was performed. When viewing a picture, you can activate a mode in which the focus points are indicated by squares. This mode is supported only by professional cameras of the D200, D300 type and all full-frame ones. This is convenient because when setting up a quick preview of the image on a 1 to 1 scale, scaling is done exactly at the focus point at which the shooting was performed. This allows you to quickly check and select good sharp pictures.
It looks like the D600 is in flight, it does not have the settings of the central multi selector button, in viewing mode it will not increase.
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610 Stopped focusing by pressing the shutter button. Focuses only with the AF-L button. To the warranty workshop?
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Read instruction
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Many thanks to Arkady. Thank you for being with us. Everything is available, simple, and most importantly free. I searched for several days tormented how to set the sharpness correctly, but here it’s simple and affordable. I bless you, remain so beautiful, sweet and kind. Help people, it will return to you. Regards Tina
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Many thanks! Everything is very clear and detailed
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Hello, Arkady. I have a Nikon D5500. I am a novice blogger, shoot myself on video in Live View and tell girls about the latest in cosmetics. And my problem is focus. The camera has frame-by-frame shooting, continuous and manual. Basically, I choose face-priority single-shot mode. But when I show the cosmetics in front of me, in the face of the product, the camera doesn’t want to focus on them, it only sees my face, although at the moment it’s behind. Moreover, when I look at the captured video, I see that from some point the focus loses to me, because I move my head, gesticulate a little, and no longer focus on me. Manual focus mode is not suitable, because I can’t reach for the camera and focus everything with every movement. Continuous tracking is not suitable, as the sound of focusing is heard on the video, Whack-Whack, Whack-Whack. I did not set the priority of the face, but the normal AF area, wide AF area, AF target tracking, but the focus again does not focus anything that I’m showing in the camera except me. What should I set the focus mode so that the whole picture is in focus throughout the entire video, and I, and everything that appears in the camera? Help pzhl!
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> Constant tracking is not suitable because the sound of focusing is heard on the video, whack-whack, whack-whack.
You need an external microphone. Yes, and shoot on the built-in - this is a bad manners.
There are on-camera ones, but they can also respond to the sound of focusing (although incomparably quieter); or, better, a lapel microphone (but not cheap quality ones, but Chinese ones for 100 rubles are not very good).
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Thank you, I will try
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close the aperture so that all the space you need is in focus and put on manual focus.
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I do not understand how to do this, but I will study. thanks
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AF-F focus mode (via 'i' button), wide auto zone, but in general, this is a difficult business and a good result may not be achieved.
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Thank you, what does it mean, sorry, through the “i” button, where is it?
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That's all, I understood, I did just that. It’s just that the sound of constant focusing is heard later in the video, and because of this, I don’t use that mode (
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Even a cheap $ 2-3 lavalier works quite well, and the sound is heard much better than from a camera microphone. You may need a long cord. You can even write the sound separately on the buttonhole - for example, on the phone, but then you have to synchronize the video and sound in the editor.
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Hello, tell me, for example, you write:
“Damn important: if you are using a camera with a motorized focus, and on it there is an autofocus lens but no focus motor and no focus mode switch on the lens itself, for example, a Nikon D90 bundle (a camera with a motor) and a Nikon 85mm f / 1.8 lens D AF Nikkor (no focusing motor and no focus mode switch) - for manual focusing, be sure to switch the lever near the camera mount to the 'M' position, otherwise manual focusing may damage the camera. ”
Is there anything similar in the combination of Nikon D7000 and Helios 81-H?
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No. There, the lever can be in any position, you can also focus manually manually at any time in any position.
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Victoria, it says “autofocus lens”. Helios 81H does not have automatic focusing, it is a manual focus lens (i.e. manual).
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Hello! I have a d750 camera, lens 35 1.8. Previously, there was a camera d90 and 50 1.8, it was focused manually, I myself chose the focus point with the wheel, but now I just can not heaven and this function on the d750. I’ve already read all the instructions, but I couldn’t find it there ((Please tell me how to do this? So that I wouldn’t focus using the joystick, but use the joystick to choose the focus point. Thank you in advance!
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Good afternoon.
1. You need to switch the point blocker to the “point” position, not the 'L'. A rotary switch is located around the joystick.
2. On the AF / M lever, which is located near the camera mount, near the lens release button there is a recessed button on the AF / M lever itself. She is not like the D90. Press this button and rotate the front or rear control dials until the single-point focus mode is set on the monochrome display.
3. All this is in the instructions :)
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The d600 has terrible focus points, huge identical squares, does it focus on its faces or in the zone inside the square?
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That is, if it were not squares, but rectangles, circles and triangles, and all small and of different sizes, would it be more convenient in your opinion?
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that is, if it was like on d3200, I would be happy, there are 3 points like d600
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There is no fundamental difference. A square is perhaps even more convenient to see than a small dot with brackets. In general, this is not a problem. The problem is rather that these points are collected in the center, are not evenly distributed on the screen. Was it worth it to change the d3200 if changing the appearance of the focus point is already a problem?
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Well, you won’t try, you don’t know, I tried and found out (
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The special flesh is that in the D3200 the focus point is not just a point, but an area around a point, closer to a square on the D600
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Hello, I have such a problem lately out of 10 frames, 8-9 frames are out of focus, back or front, basically a sharp background and the object itself is not there, although I always focus on it, and the most interesting thing is that I tried it on different lenses, but most of all this the effect is noticeable at 50mm 1.8. What is the problem and what to do, please tell me
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Most likely you have back focus. If the camera is a 7xxx series, or cooler, then you can fix it in the camera settings, if 3xxx, 5xxx, then only carry it to the service.
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Good evening! Is it possible to change (move) the focus point in the Nikon D7500 in AF mode? In M and Lv mode, does the focus point move with the multi selector, but in AF this function is not available on this model?
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Figured out)
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Good afternoon!
Thanks for the articles! But we still have to figure it out for a long time)) Yesterday we bought Nicon D5100. HELP please understand (otherwise we are in a panic) -in such cameras (not soap dishes), is there always focus only at one point? Sorry for the stupid question, you are describing a lot on this subject, but we have not yet understood. Is there a mode in which clarity is present in the whole picture, like in ordinary soap dishes?
And also, if possible, please tell me what color rendering depends on? Photos are unexpectedly bright (acidic) - is this regulated by some other shutter speeds, apertures?
We will be VERY grateful if you find time to answer!)
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This is a big and extensive question.
To make the whole picture sharp / clear on a SLR camera, you should use wide-angle optics, for example, at 18mm, the maximum closed aperture and shoot distant objects (landscape, architecture). The number of focus points does not affect the depth of field, the point / dots are used to indicate the place that should be sharp.
Color rendering depends on a million things. First of all, from lighting, white balance, camera settings. All cameras can change the color rendering. In the same d5100 there are many settings for controlling colors in the menu “picture control modes” (landscape / portrait type, they can be adjusted to your taste).
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Thank you for such a quick reply! I will think over everything that you said! All this must be studied. Thank you!
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Thank you so much for the article! Clear, affordable, capacious!
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The second day I own D7500. So far I don't understand anything at all, without your article I generally thought that af does not work ((The question is, is it possible to adjust focusing in lv mode by tapping a finger into the area? I press, something happens in the camera, but the green focus window remains in the center DX AF-S Nikkor 16-85mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED VR lens In the lumix lx10 soap dish it's so intuitively simple ((thanks in advance!
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Hello! Nikon D5200 focuses through the main screen, but not through the prism, blurry image. What could be the reason? (I hope everything is correctly described)
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Back-front focus. Welcome to service
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Hello! Help me please. I have been using Nikon D5100 for 9 years. At first, the clarity of the pictures pleased me, but lately, apparently, the technique is failing - the sharpness is not brought in in the “portrait” mode, macro. Guided from the tenth time. Sometimes the background behind the subject is sharp. It's a shame - I take pictures of children and many pictures are ruined ...
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Maybe in the lens the mechanism is shy and backlash. Usually, the focus ring dangles too
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Good time. A very good and understandable article ... I have a question I'm shooting with Nikon d750 and I have a constant problem, how best to photograph a group portrait? So it turns out that a couple of people are sharp, the rest are out of focus, while the lighting is rarely good. Thanks in advance
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Cover the aperture.
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In advance.
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Hello. You would have to deal with the topic of depth of field, look in the "depth of field calculator" what is the depth of field with your shooting parameters and which should be assigned when the depth of field reaches 1 meter or how much you need (usually cover the aperture).
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