The Tamron Aspherical LD XR DI II SP AF 17-50mm 1: 2.8 [IF] A16 is an interesting crop lens with APS-C sensor size. This review shows the A16 N II model designed for Nikon DX cameras.
![Tamron Aspherical LD XR DI II SP AF 17-50mm 1: 2.8 [IF] A16, Model A16 N II](https://radojuva.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/tamron-17-50-f-2-8-model-a16-n-ii-for-nikon-with-motor.jpg)
Tamron Aspherical LD XR DI II SP AF 17-50mm 1: 2.8 [IF] A16, Model A16 N II
- Canon - Model A16E (good review here)
- Pentax - Model A16P
- Sony / Minolta - Model A16S
- Nikon - Model A16N or A16N II
In total, the line of such Tamron lenses for Nikon cameras consists of four models:
- Tamron Aspherical LD XR DI II SP AF 17-50mm 1: 2.8 [IF] - Model A16N, February 2006 (country of origin - Japan or Vietnam)
- Promaster DIGITAL XR EDO AF Ashperical LD [IF] 17-50mm 1: 2.8, which is a model of the Tamron Model A16 N under the Promaster brand.
- Tamron Aspherical LD XR DI II SP AF 17-50mm 1: 2.8 [IF] - Model A16NIIMarch 2008, the model is shown in this review.
- Tamron Di II SP 17-50mm F / 2.8 VC - Model B005NII, September 2009, review is located here.
Difference between Tamron A16 N II and Tamron A16 N
- Tamron A16 N Model Older
- The Tamron A16 N does not have a built-in focus motor and is similar to the 'AF' lens for Nikon cameras. The Tamron A16 N II has a built-in focus motor and is the counterpart to the 'AF-S' lens for Nikon cameras. The older Tamron A16 N model will not automatically focus on Nikon cameras without a built-in focus motor, an accurate and complete list of cameras without a focus motor can be viewed here... Be careful, both models are labeled 'Tamron AF', but this abbreviation does not refer to Nikon's designations and can be confusing.
- The Tamron A16 N II has an AF / MF focus mode switch. The older version lacks such a switch.
- The Tamron A16 N has a screwdriver slot on the bayonet side, which connects the camera focusing motor to the lens focusing mechanism. The Tamron A16 N II lacks this slot.
- Tamron A16 N has 5 microprocessor contacts, Tamron A16 N II has 8 microprocessor contacts (interesting information on microprocessor contacts here).
- Lenses come in different boxes. The Tamron A16 N II version has a clear indication of its model, it says 'Model: A16 N II, Built-In Motor for Nikon D'.
Please note that the Tamron A16 N II and Tamron A16 N models have the same name spelling on their case and only the generic 'A16' model is indicated throughout. Be careful when shopping. The easiest way to distinguish lenses from each other is the number of microprocessor contacts. Also, for Tamron A16 N II version, 'A16N II' is indicated on the box.
In short
Tamron Aspherical LD XR DI II SP AF 17-50mm 1: 2.8 [IF] A16 (abbreviated as Tamron A16 N II) is high-speed universal zoom lens for Nikon DX cameras. Interesting big maximum constant aperture over the entire range of focal lengths and low price. The native analog of this lens is Nikon AF-S Nikkor 17-55mm 1: 2.8G ED IF SWM DXwhich is about 3 times more expensive than the Tamron A16 N II.
Key Features Tamron Aspherical LD XR DI II SP AF 17-50mm 1: 2.8 [IF] A16 (Nikon version of A16NII)
| Review Instance Name | Tamron Aspherical LD XR DI II SP AF 17-50mm 1: 2.8 [IF] A16 (box: Model: A16N II Filter Size: Ø 67mm for Nikon D compatible ”) |
| Basic properties |
|
| Front Filter Diameter | 67 mm |
| Focal length | 17-50 mm EGF for Nikon DX cameras is 25.5-75 mm |
| Zoom ratio | 2.94 X (often rounded to three) |
| Designed by | for Nikon DX cropped digital cameras |
| Number of aperture blades | 7 rounded petals that form a fairly even hole |
| Tags | focusing distance in meters and feet, focal lengths for 17, 24, 35, 50 mm, hood attachment mark, bayonet mount mark |
| Diaphragm | from f / 2.8 over the entire range of focal lengths to f / 32. The lens does not have an aperture ring (G - lens type for Nikon cameras) |
| MDF | 0.27 m, maximum magnification ratio 1: 4.5 (at a value of 50 mm focal length) |
| The weight | 440 g |
| Optical design | 16 elements in 13 groups of which 2 are aspherical hybrid (Aspherical, marked in pink), 1 special low dispersion element (LD, marked in green) and 3 elements with a high refractive index (XR, marked in blue). Clickable Image |
| Lens hood | Included petal hood |
| Manufacturer country | Lens manufactured / manufactured in Japan, China and Vietnam |
| Price | |
| Period | From February 2006, in September 2009 replaced by Tamron Di II SP 17-50mm F / 2.8 VC |
What need to know about Tamron A16NII:
- The lens is used constant maximum relative aperture F / 2.8 over the entire range of focal lengths. Actually, this is one of its strengths. The difference in aperture between F / 2.8 and F / 5.6, which are used in simple whale lenses, is 4 times (2 steps).
- Price. The price of the lens is approximately 3 times lower for the native analogue from Nikon.
- Very convenient range of focal lengths. EGF lens for Nikon DX cameras will be 25,4-75 mm which is a very popular focal length range.
- Built-in focus motor. The lens will work with any Nikon digital SLR camera.
- Included lens hood, which helps a little when shooting in side and backlight. The hood can be installed in the reverse position for transportation, in this position it’s a little inconvenient to zoom, and the focus ring is completely locked.
- The diameter of the front filter is 67 mm, which is a standard diameter and will allow you to easily find filters for the lens
- Strange lock buttonwhich locks the zoom at 17mm. Strange because the lens does not have the ability to independently lengthen its 'trunk' and this button is here just for the sake of a tick. Perhaps, over time, the button will come in handy.
- When focusing front element does not rotate or extend, you can use special light filters without any problems. This option in the lens name is called [IF] (Internal Focusing)
Of the disadvantages:
- To focus manually or adjust the focus, be sure to switch the focus mode switch to M on the lens.
- Auto focus is fast enough, but very noisy.
- Spread in quality. My copy was selected on the third attempt.
- Very poor build quality and lens design itself. At first, questions about assembly do not arise, but after prolonged use, the ring near the front lens begins to loosen and the focus ring loosens. Moreover, it seems that the focus ring is about to fall off. The image quality was not affected.
- When focusing manually, hard to focus due to the fact that the focus ring has a stroke of only 45 degrees. Even in Live View mode, getting into focus is very difficult.
Interesting moments:
- The lens is marked SP (Super Performance - super performance), which hints at its professional lenses.
- The lens has a large zoom ring.
- The difference between 17 mm for the amron A16 N II) and 18 mm for the kit lens class 18-55 / 3.5-5.6 is very difficult to feel. So 17mm as a wide angle is not a good idea when choosing a lens.
- I shoot with this lens almost always at three values, this is 2.8 - when needed aperture in poor lighting or a 50 mm portrait. F4.0 - when you need to slightly increase the depth of field without closing the aperture much and F9.0 when you need to get a sharp picture.
- In the position of the zoom ring at 50 mm, the lens does not give a clear 50 mm, but gives a wider angle than a fifty-fifty (fixed lens with real 50 mm focal length). This complicates the photography of portraits by 50 mm a little.
Image quality
The lens has a good contrast, but in lateral light can catch glare and flare. Chromatic aberrations very noticeable at the edges and corners of the image, in the center of aberration are much better compensated. At 17 mm there is a tangible barrel-like distortion. Sharpness - here is a very interesting point, the copy from this review does not give normal sharpness on apertures from F / 2.8 to F / 5.6. Moreover, closing the aperture to F / 5.6, the sharpness changes very weakly. The lens is suffering very strong vignetted on the diaphragms aboutt f / 2.8 to f / 4.0. The lens does not distort color reproduction and has a simple 'bokeh'.
All fast universal zoom lenses
Below is a list of all such aperture-type universal zoom autofocus lenses for SLR and mirrorless cameras with an APS-C sensor or less.
Tokina (DX, various mounts)
- Tokina AT-X PRO SD 16-50 F2.8 DX Internal Focus, model AT-X 165 PRO DX, for Canon (C/EF version) and Nikon (N/AIS version), from July 2006. Optical design is the same as Pentax SMC DA* 16-50mm f/2.8 ED AL (IF) SDM
Tamron (DI II, DI III-A, various mounts)
- Tamron Aspherical LD XR DI II SP AF 17-50 mm 1: 2.8 [IF], model A16 N / E / P / S (under Nikon [N], Canon [E], Pentax [P], Sony / Minolta [S]), since February 2006. Produced in Japan, China and Vietnam
- promaster DIGITAL XR EDO AF Ashperical LD [IF] 17-50 mm 1: 2.8 MACROprevious lens under the brand Promaster
- Tamron Aspherical LD XR DI II SP AF 17-50 mm 1: 2.8 [IF], model A16 NII (only for Nikon cameras), since March 2008
- Tamron Di II SP 17-50 mm F / 2.8 VC B005, model B005 E / NII (for Canon [E] or Nikon [NII]), from September 2009, Japan or China)
- Tamron 17-70 mm F / 2.8 Di III-A VC RXD Model B070, Model B070, Sony E only, from December 2020
Sigma (DC, different mounts)
With constant maximum aperture (DC EX and DC ART series):
- Sigma DC ZOOM 18-50mm 1: 2.8 EX (+ -D), since July 2004, for Sigma SA, Nikon F, Canon EFS, Pentax K. The version for the '4/3' system has been available since February 2006 (not mass-produced). The version for Nikon in its name includes the prefix 'D'.
- Sigma dc 18-50mm 1: 2.8 EX MACRO, since September 2006, for Sigma SA, Nikon F, Canon EFS, Pentax K, 4/3
- Sigma dc 18-50mm 1: 2.8 EX MACRO HSM, since June 2007, for Nikon DX cameras only (Nikon F mount)
- Sigma dc 17-50mm 1: 2.8 ZOOM EXOS HSM, from February 2010, for Sigma SA, Nikon F, Canon EFS, Pentax K, Sony / Minotla A
- Sigma dc 18-35mm F1.8 A [ART, HSM], from April 2013, for Sigma SA, Nikon F, Canon EFS, Pentax K, Sony / Minotla A
- SIGMA DC 18-50 mm 1: 2.8 DN C [Contemporary], since Oct 2021, for Sony E, Leica L
With variable maximum aperture (DC and DC Contemporary series):
- Sigma dc 17-70mm 1:2.8-4.5, February 2006, for Sigma SA, Nikon F, Canon EFS, Pentax K, Sony / Minotla A
- Sigma dc 17-70mm 1:2.8-4.5 MACRO HSM, from July 2007, for Nikon DX cameras only (Nikon F mount)
- Sigma dc 17-70mm 1:2.8-4 MACRO HSM OS, from December 2009, for Sigma SA, Nikon F, Canon EFS, Pentax K, Sony / Minotla A
- Sigma dc 17-70mm 1:2.8-4 C, [MACRO, OS, HSM, Contemporary], from September 2012, for Sigma SA, Nikon F, Canon EFS, Pentax K, Sony / Minotla A
- Sigma dc 18-50mm 1:2.8-4.5 HSM OS ZOOM, from March 2009, for Sigma SA, Nikon F, Canon EFS, Pentax K, Sony / Minotla A
Nikon (DX, F mount)
- Nikon DX VR AF-S Nikkor 16-80mm 1:2.8-4E ED N, Nikon F mount, from July 2015
- Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 17-55mm 1: 2.8G ED IF SWM, Nikon F mount, from July 2003
Pentax (DA, Q, K and Q mounts)
- Pentax SMC DA * 16-50 mm 1:2.8 ED AL (IF) SDM, Pentax KAF2 mount, since February 2007. Optical design is similar to the lens Tokina AT-X PRO SD 16-50 F2.8 DX Internal Focus (joint development of Tokina and Pentax)
- HD PENTAX-DA * 1: 2.8 16-50 mm ED PLMAW, from July 2021, Pentax KAF4 mount
- HD Pentax-DA 1: 2.8-4 20-40 mm ED Limited DC WR, Pentax KAF3 mount, black or silver body, from November 2013
- SMC Pentax 1: 2.8-4.5 5-15 mm ED AL [IF] [LENS 02], Pentax Q mount (crop factor Kf=5.53X or Kf=4.65X)
Canon (EFS, EF-S mount)
- Canon Zoom Lens EF-S 17-55mm 1: 2.8 IS USM (Image Sabilizer, Ulstrasonic, EFS), Canon EF-S mount, since May 2006
Sony (DT, A and E mounts)
- Sony DT 2.8/16-50 SSM, Sony A mount (Minolta A), since August 2011
- Sony E 2.8/16-55G (Sony SEL1655G), Sony E bayonet mount, from August 2019
Fujifilm(X)
- Fujinon Ashperical Lens Nano-GI XF 16-55mm 1: 2.8 R LM WR, Fujifilm X mount, since January 2015
- Fujinon Ashperical Lens Super EBC XF 18-55mm 1:2.8-4 RLM OIS, Fujifilm X mount, September 2012
Samsung (NX)
- Samsung lens 1: 2-2.8 S 16-50 mm ED OIS i-Function, Samsung NX mount, since January 2014
Olympus/Panasonic/Leica/Yongnuo (4/3, Micro 4/3, Kf=2X)
Mirrored 4/3:
- OLYMPUS ZUIKO Digital 11-22 mm 1:2.8-3.5, from February 2004
- OLYMPUS Digital 14-54 mm 1:2.8-3.5, from June 2003
- OLYMPUS Digital 14-54 mm 1:2.8-3.5 II, from November 2008
- OLYMPUS ZUIKO Digital 14-35 mm 1: 2 ED SWDsince January 2005
- Panasonic Lumix LEICA D VARIO-ELMARIT 1: 2.8-3.5 /14-50 ASPH. MEGA OIS, from July 2006
Mirrorless Micro 4/3:
- OLYMPUS M.ZUIKO DIGITAL 12-40 mm 1:2.8 PRO, since October 2013
- Panasonic Lumix Leica DG Vario-Summilux 10-25 mm f / 1.7 ASPH.since May 2019
- LUMIX G VARIO 1: 2.8 /12-35 ASPH. POWER OIS, since June 2012, in March 2017 an improved sub-version is released (outwardly they do not differ in any way)
- Panasonic Lumix Leica DG Vario-ELMARIT 1: 2.8-4.0 /12-60 ASPH., since March 2017
- Yongnuo 12-35 F2.8-4 STM ASPH, since April 2023
This is what the version of Tamron A16P for Pentax cameras looks like:
Sample Photos
Photos from the campaign (the size is reduced to 2048 pixels on the long side, the photos are clickable)
More examples of photos (the size is reduced to 2048 pixels on the long side, the photos are clickable):
RAW source files ('.NEF', Nikon D80) can download from this link (15 photos, 130 Mb).
Another gallery with Tamron 17-50 F2.8 I have here.
Lens price
Prices for the Tamron 17-50mm F / 2.8 XR Di II LD Aspherical (IF) lens in popular online stores can look at this link.
Comments on this post do not require registration. Anyone can leave a comment. Many different photographic equipment can be found on AliExpress.
Results
Tamron Aspherical LD XR DI II SP AF 17-50mm 1: 2.8 [IF] A16, model A16 N II is an unusual lens, it is difficult to choose a copy with normal sharpness. The lens assembly is far from professional. The lens attracts a large aperture over the entire range of focal lengths, nice color reproduction and low price.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram
Would you leave yourself a Tamron 28-75 f / 2.8 and 50mm
1.8G?
It is possible and this option, only Tamron will be a little narrow on the crop.
Here I am tormented with the question how much will 28-75 be narrow on the crop? and is it worth taking 17-55 for this. There is a Nikon 50mm. Tell me, I take the lens as a staffer. I will use it for weddings
“Weird“ Lock ”button that locks the zoom at 17mm. Strange because the lens does not have the ability to independently lengthen its "trunk" and this button is here just for the sake of a tick. " - it does not have it on its own, but under accidental external influence it even has, for example, it is convenient to go on hikes with frequent movements with an uncovered camera so as not to blur the lens once again, block it with this strange button. I often run through the woods with a dangling camera on my shoulder, and I don't always see what is happening to him there, but by pressing this button I will know (because I used to run with another device) that he will not go anywhere))) even when you attach the lens to the bayonet so that it does not disperse when connected))) otherwise you cannot attach it.
I will answer both. This button is in order to conveniently remove the lens from the camera.
If it is not blocked, then it starts to zoom. You need to lock the button and then quietly twist the zoom ring. I think that this button was just the same and was provided in connection with the prevailing construct, for convenience. Agree with me.
And now attention, the correct answer:
the blocking is necessary so that the two front lenses do not bump against each other. The probability is small, but under a certain set of circumstances they will knock and beautiful cracked holes will appear on both inside the lens - I saw it myself.
so is it better to take Tamron or kit 18-105? I'm tired of reading different forums, tell me PLEASE, I want to make a choice !!!
For what purposes, for what tasks?
I have a D 7000, mostly I'm an amateur, but sometimes I photograph weddings, childish photos. I have Nikon 50mm f / 1.4 AF-D in my presence.
PSI understand that you are constantly asked these stupid questions, but believe me, you are doing a great job for those people who do not really understand this, and constantly doubt it, because the opinion of smart and most importantly smart people like you is important. Thank you very much for this.
Better this Tamron :)
is it better to take with a stub or without? there are a lot of different negative comments about Tamron, because I’m worried (
There are many rumors. In general, the stabilizer is better, although the version with the stabilizer in the general case may be slightly worse optically.
Judging by the tests from the site http://www.photozone.de, the quality of the picture for Tamron without a stub is from 3,5 to 4 on a 5-point scale, and with a stub it is only 3, and the geometry of Tamron with a stub is worse.
Referring all to the same site, Tamron’s build quality is 3,5 points, and Nikkor 18-105’s only 2,5 and the mount to the mount is plastic, maybe 2,5 points in total
I kind of opted for Tamron without a stub as an everyday lens, but after reading your review about the quality of its assembly, I already doubted it. And so it seems like excellent glass, the main hole is 2,8 over the entire range of focal lengths, and of course the price is. And in a compartment with Nikon D7100 with its dopcrop in 1,3, generally a class. Three in one (shirik, staff member and portrait).
In general, it’s very difficult to choose optics in such a range of focal lengths for reasonable money (for me it’s 500-700 dollars) so that the build quality and pictures would be at their best
thanks a lot!!!!!!!!!
I have already decided to take it, and then again I read all sorts of forums and write that the nikon d7000 is not very good with this lens, the soap is in the frame, the focus is not always stable and the lack of light is almost constant. that the real aperture is not 2.8. So IMHO - it's better to take Nikkor 16-85, like this. what do you say to this, I already trust you so much)))
Take somewhere to try 17-50 and find out for yourself, this will be the best option.
Maybe this information will help someone - I recently had a loose front lens on this lens. As it turned out, the problem is solved in 5 minutes. To do this, first remove the plastic ring that covers the 4 screws with a small screwdriver. Then tighten these screws more firmly and replace the ring. Detailed video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IiOj-7MAO_w
Hello! Tell me, I want to buy the first DSLR. What to choose Nikon 3100 or Nikon 5100? And it is better to take with a whale lens or is there a variant Sigma 18-50 mm f2.8-4.5 DC OS? Thanks
You have a great resource !. I want to take this lens for photogrammetry with a k-30 carcass. The same strange Lock button, which everyone dislikes so much, is very valuable for technical photography, where you need pictures with a strictly set focal length (at least arbitrary, but the same in many frames). I wanted to ask, is this lock only 17 mm pinches the zoom, or is it possible in other positions? And one more thing: is it possible to manually adjust the focus without cutting AF?
Good afternoon, Arkady! Very interesting and informative site! Thank you for your fruitful work and professionalism with the absence of snobbery, so often coming from the "pros".
For this lens, I would like to note here. Great everyday high-aperture zoom lens. But. A vacuum cleaner. = (I bought it by hand, and already at the time of purchase it was noticed that there was dust inside. It seems that it doesn’t interfere with an open hole, but it’s sometimes noticeable in landscapes. Moreover, it seems to me that since the time of purchase, there was more dust inside. Have you encountered such misfortune? Do you think it is worth giving the lens for disassembly-cleaning, or will this only temporarily solve the problem?
I have the same situation. Cleaning is just a temporary solution.
And it also incorrectly transmits information to the exif - at all focal points it shows the same 24mm. Is it somehow getting right?
Perhaps the question is not the topic. I just did not understand how to personally contact you.
I have a nikon d5000 kit 18-55,
I want to change the lens for some with more sensitivity, so that at night we get better photos not yellowish but bright and colored. I don’t want portraits, they fit too little, and I like to take a picture of a company or landscape sometimes or a building, or sometimes in the dynamics something to take a picture because autofocus should also have a stabilizer.
But I’m looking for something that’s not expensive. I'm not a pro, but I just want to simplify my life a little bit with a better option than the basic kit.
They advised taking Nikkor 16-85mm f3.5-5.6 AF-S DX G-ED VR.
I read your review about him and hesitated a little. Although in principle it can be used for little money
Thank you
Arkady, tell me please, if you compare this lens and the Nikon 35mm f / 1.8G AF-S DX Nikkor, the 35mm picture under the same conditions will be very different, where will it be better? I am choosing a lens for photographing children. And my brother will have a wedding soon ...
If you compare the Tamron 17-50 / 2.8 and 28-75 / 2.8 in sharpness and focus speed, which one is better in your opinion?
Help me choose I can’t understand the difference (except in price) for the lens Lens for Nikon Tamron AF17-50 / 2.8 XR DI II LD A16NII and Lens for Nikon Tamron AF17-50 / 2.8 DI II XR VC LD B005NII? Which is better? Sometimes I rent a wedding?
Arkady! Learn Russian, it pays off.
Thanks. I teach.
Arkady, thanks for, as always, an informative review.
As for the sharpness, I’m not going to disagree with you, just judging by the examples of your photos, I want to make a correction (I think this will be appropriate).
I have a Nikon D5100 with a whale lens (18-55), and so, in my opinion, if we compare the sharpness at the maximum open aperture, this and the whale lens - heaven and earth!
I do not have this lens, I just see your examples and admire it even when the aperture is fully open.
Good afternoon, Arkadiy in me є nutrition, I’ve added a tamron of 17-50, ale vіn miss the focus if I put the yogo at 17-30mm (with a slight increase in distance), I’ve got about 11 mm f50 (f2.8) the trick is not overshooting hiba yakshcho the object of taking photos in full time, whole thing with the lens, if my hands are crooked, I’ll be in vain for you to vidpovіd !!!!
Hello. Does the autofocus of a given lens often miss? In a bourgeois review I read that his autofocus is very inaccurate. With the fact that he is not very fast, you can live for that kind of money .. Thank you.
Mine misses mostly in the wrong hands. :) Just a few times noticed such a sin behind him.
Good afternoon. I have a question - I want to buy a 17-50mm F / 2.8 on a used market, but which one?
What is better tamron 17-50mm f / 2.8 or similar sigma 17-50mm f / 2.8
By survivability, picture quality, convenience?
Thank you in advance.
Klasnі photo! ..
Of the shortcomings, I can also add very quickly stretching rubber on the zoom ring. How to deal with it?
Arkady, hello. I am a novice photographer, I photograph weddings, while on a whale 18-105, the D 7000 camera, this lens completely suits me in terms of distance, but not at all in terms of sharpness. The bottom line: As I understand it, with Tamron SP AF 17-50mm f / 2.8, all problems with sharpness will disappear, but he is a wide-eyed one, will the difference be noticeable for me, and for weddings this difference is a plus or minus? Thanks in advance for the answer! =)
I came across a sharp specimen, but the tamron has a good quality, so it’s best to test the lens in a store and draw your own conclusions about sharpness. In fact, your 18-105 covers almost the same range of focal lengths as 17-50, so your thoughts are not entirely clear). In the range of 17-50 you will gain aperture and sharpness, while losing versatility (the range 51-105 will be lost).
Thank you, well, in general, you need to take a portrait and the whole problem is settled)) yes?