If you cannot find a suitable topic for your question, add it to this section.
Perhaps a site search will help you:
Just enter your search query in the specified field:
Comments on this post do not require registration. Anyone can leave a comment. Many different photographic equipment can be found on AliExpress.
Please note that for some questions I do not know the answers, or the answer requires 10 pages of text. When asking questions, try to formulate them correctly and in a detailed manner, honestly, neither I nor other readers of Radozhiva have telepathy and can not understand and even more so answer short, meaningless questions.
If you are completely stuck, then consult with me on my contacts (preferably through any messenger and / or social network).
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram
Hello, Arkady! Please advise which is better to take: Tokina AT-X PRO 80-200mm f2.8 or Tamron 70-200 210 2.8, I want these old lenses, I will put on FF Canon ... Ideally, I would like my native 80-200 2.8, but we have there is no sale, there is no desire to bother with buying on foreign sites.
Victor.
I see for you, yakbi didn’t look wonderful, ale May senior Tamron will be twirling them with vibrator, repairing them with speed, color, little girl and child af.
Good day. Tell me who knows how to turn off the LED backlight in the D7200?
When the built-in flash is raised, when you press the shutter button, the yellow lamp first lights up and the subject is highlighted, and only after that the shutter and flash fire. I can’t take a picture of my dog. This backlight in the face of the animal, scares off and the dog turns away. And when she turns away, shooting takes place. Set the built-in flash to a minimum of power, it sets the clock signal. In the settings menu, I turned off the autofocus backlight, but when the flash is raised, it still lights up. Can I turn it off?
Check the selected flash mode; it may be worthwhile with red-eye reduction instead of the usual one.
Even with continuous AF tracking mode, the light should not seem to be triggered.
You can disable it. Go to the settings.
Thanks, I'll try to figure it out
Good evening. I am an amateur filming my family. 2 years ago I bought nikon d3s, I realized that I do not process raves, I do not use the opportunities. I want to change it to either canon 5d m2 or fujifilm x-e2. For Fuji - they say and write that the jeep is good, against the crop. For kenon-full frame and say the color is better than that of nikon for people, against - poor autofocus. Tell me about the advisability of changing the system. For lenses available 3 fixes 35 2, 50 1.8,85 1.8
Hello, Semyon.
1. Nikon lenses will only work on Nikon cameras.
2. In terms of color and picture quality, neither Kenon nor Fuji will be better than D3s.
3. Autofocus is generally incomparable.
Do not take the second dime after D3s, do not.
Lots of cameras will end up at flea markets. And still go broke on L-ki lenses. And to shoot on Canon, not having L-ek - money down the drain. Better Fuji. Or stay on Nikon and then buy Fuji.
PS> D3s in good condition are now expensive on Avito, not much cheaper than D4.
Quality and color are of interest only in the jeep. In d3s, Rav is definitely better. As for the jeep, I doubt therefore I am writing here.
On Kenon, just like on D3s, you will need to configure jpeg in the camera, nothing will work right away with the factory settings. And still the picture will not be better. I have not encountered the UBC Fuji, but they say that everything is fine with people there, and everything else is very mediocre.
Simon, I had D3s. Recently bought Fuji X100T.
Fuji's JPG is really good and I don't shoot in RAW at all. Fuji is a camera for the lazy. If the camera is correctly configured from the beginning, then you won't have to sit with RAW in the evenings / nights. There are film modes / simulations that produce interesting colors. Fuji photos are peculiar and cannot be compared with Nikon / Canon. I had my doubts, but after watching hundreds of photos of Fuji in this group dedicated to the Claasic regime, Chrome could not resist and bought a camera: https://www.flickr.com/groups/classicchrome/
Now he wants to buy X-T3 as well. I had D3s, now D4. There is also Sigma SD-1 at Foveone.
But so that to abruptly break loose and go to shoot without collecting a photo backpack, Fuji will be most suitable. Fuji loves sunny weather, as does (especially!) Sigma.
D3s is more versatile. But its weight and size, the weight of good lenses for this camera - not for walking, but for making money.
Thanks for the info, very helpful. I don’t earn a photo, so I prefer a camera for the lazy. X-e2 considered to purchase?
No, only the X-T3. There's a new BSI backlit matrix.
Fuji is really really good color. DD on new models is very good.
At first, there was a desire to download the RAW converter and sit in it, as usual, after shooting on other cameras. But after the first hundred frames, the first doubts appeared, and after a couple of thousand frames, everything is already fine. Moreover, I began to catch myself thinking that I often wanted to shoot with Fuji than with other cameras. It's not about the appearance of the camera itself (I've already been asked several times: - Is this “Zenith”?) But, perhaps, the sensations from shooting with this camera and the result obtained.
Hello, tell me, has anyone dealt with this store? Is it worth buying equipment there?https://www.fotosklad.ru
I bought it more than once - no problem
No problem. Two months ago I purchased SIGMA 17-50 2.8 VR DX / Delivery to Nizhnevartovsk, Khanty-Mansi Autonomous Okrug_UGRA for a surprise, 6 days. Sent back, the front focus is more than 20. On the D7000, the scale was not enough. Sent under warranty, though without problems, but for a long time, with the transfer to Peter back and forth it took 40 days. Justified. All OK. The prices are reasonable, there are discounts.
I read in nete that a lot of some kind of gray equipment is sold in such online stores, I want to buy Nikon 7200 and 18-105 glass for it
Good evening. The store, as I understand it, is serious, it doesn’t kick back from customers ’claims, though I didn’t take photographic equipment there, because recently I’ve taken it from a secondary store, a friend took a lens, it seemed to him that it was a front focus, they were engaged in it. I am sure that the gray equipment is made by the same manufacturer as the white one (not in the basement), but it is imported differently. Nesk. years ago I bought a tamron 28-75 / 2,8 in Kotofoto, it was the cheapest, I began to register its website number in order to get a 5-year guarantee, but they say: this number is not in Russia. Gray to see. And it works well, I'm satisfied.
That is, it is better to look from the secondary?
As you wish. If you confidently assess the state of workability of equipment and don’t (sorry) make money on a hobby, look there.
Good day, I’ll help you, I want to buy Nikon d700 ff, but Canon 5d mark 2 I’ll re-work, matrix up to 5 bits. Bazhano with a rear shutter with a run up to 150 000. I can reserve up to 12 000 UAH. (clicked). Yakshcho kogos to give food in comments. Dyakuyu
Take the mark of another one with a greater probation, for example https://www.olx.ua/obyavlenie/canon-5d-mark-ii-IDBGbcY.html#c5ca3cbabc
Hello everyone, Arkady and everyone who can respond, help with the choice of equipment !!!!! I will take pictures mainly from kindergartens, individuals and group photos! And very rarely weddings (maybe) You need a photo, glass and flash! Huge enormous thanks to everyone who leaves a comment and advice here !!! ”! \\
I consider only the Nikon technique
D5+24-70/2.8+70-200/2.8+SB-5000
It is very expensive for me, can you advise something cheaper?
It is very popular with wedding workers D750 (D610), + 24-70 / 2.8 from Sigma or Tamron + Nikkor 50 / 1.4D + Nikkor 85 / 1.4D.
and d 800 as an apparatus, I just read everything they write about it)
I myself shoot on the d800e just the same thing that is written with you. I have three glasses so far: 28mm, 50mm and 85mm 1,8g series. An outbreak can be taken on a sb-800 for $ 100-150, or two for insurance. For d800-current, you need good flash drives with a speed of 60 mb / s, and best of all 150-160 mb / s. And also train to process rav files in various converter programs (a jeep is not suitable for commerce). Personally, I am quite pleased with this set, further in the plans only shirik or 14-24, maybe even a fish. And for weddings you need already two cameras, in this case you can’t take risks. If something interests you in more detail on d800s, you can discuss it by email. I used to use the d3100, d7100 and now the d800e and the impressions from each of them are different.
Arkady good afternoon!
Please tell me for portraits that you would advise Tokin 100 2.8 or Nikon 85 1.8g ?. Thanks!
Arkady, hello! Quite by accident, to my great happiness, I came across your site. Shoveled a bunch of information and finally got confused in choosing a camera. I’m a man who, from photography, was holding only a GoPro camera in my hands, and even then I didn’t even dig into the settings. Recently, they began to travel a lot and wanted good quality pictures for a home album. Please tell me which camera to purchase and with which lens. Budget 70k plus or minus. Preference in photography in descending order: landscapes, portraits, bokeh, macro.
PS I understand that in the hands of a hand * opa and an expensive camera will not do a miracle, so my husband is going to take courses.
something like sony a6300 / a6500. and sigma 30 1.4 DC
Hello. From Nikon I would advise d5200 (or 5300) complete with 18-55 - here's landscapes, a small macro (for a more serious one you need a macro lens like a Nikor 40 / 2,8, etc.) and a little more, for portraits on the crop, 50 / 1,8G is usually advised. I do not recommend things like d7XXX or a used full frame. heavy and bulky for travel.
Good day, I’m grateful for the pleasure of the photographers!
I’m a lover’s photo, I took a photo of myself on a Canon d50, I think I’m buying Canon 5d or Nakon I like, I think it’s amazing to be wondering about Sony 6000, olympus m10 mark ii the system isn’t really important for me to sell (you can choose your photo, please ). Before I vibrate, I get lost, and I need olkh monitority. Zarez I want to buy tіlki carcass budget of approximately 450 $ pіznіше additional purchase ob'ktiv. Dyakoy)
For yourself - you can 5d + lens to taste.
For work - Nikon D7000, Canon 60D + lens for them.
The only question is the wishes and tasks that have not yet been announced.
In the beginning, for myself, friends, friends.
In Maybut I plan pidzaroblyat.
forgetting to write)
like a photo at dusk or night (with garlands, lanterns) in general, like taking photos of people at night. I’m taking photos at the temple!
Good day. In the field of comparing old lenses and cameras, I am a complete noob. Recently acquired Zenith ET without a lens, respectively, now I am looking for a lens. I came across JUPITER-11 4/135 with a Contax-Kiev RF mount. As I understand it, this type is designed for rangefinder cameras. Will it be able to fully use it on SLR cameras (albeit through adapters)?
Will not work. No adapters, just redo. Take Jupiter-11A, it will sit on any DSLR, and it costs a penny.
Thank you very much for your help)
don't go broke on film?
Good afternoon Arkady.
I need your advice whether it is possible to mount the Wave 3 lens (80mm) on the mirrorless Hasselblad X1D, and which adapter would you recommend (link).
Thank you in advance!
Theoretically possible, the working distance allows. In practice, I haven’t seen an adapter from B (Pentacon six) to X1D yet, I can try it through another mount, the same Nikon, but I won’t be able to judge what will happen with the corners. Sorry for that Arcadia.
Alexey, thank you very much for your comment. What do you think about the “Hasselblad XV Lens” adapter for Wave-3:
http://www.hasselblad.com/x-system-accessories/xv-lens-adapter/
Thank you in advance!
This is kind of an adapter for the V system lenses of the same Hassel, not for Pentacon six. Is Wave-3 coming to him?
Thanks for the previous answer! Do you think there are any prospects for Nikon D50 today? Does it make sense to upgrade her lenses. Or is it easier to upgrade to the 3100 line ...?
Given the low cost of d80, it makes sense to switch to d80-d90-d7000
Arkady, sincerely grateful for the prompt and clear answers!
Sorry, I'll intervene again. It's easier to upgrade to the 5100 line rather than the 3100, it's worth it. And d50 to have in parallel - in good light it writes beautifully.
Good afternoon, Arkady!
I appeal to you as a person who has done a titanic work on the study of Soviet glass. Need your vision and advice.
MC HELIOS-44M-7 58mm 1: 2 or Helios-81H or MS HELIOS-77M-4 1,8 / 50.
I’m shooting nature, portrait, macro.
Camera - Sony a6000 with adapter Mitacon (with lens) and Sony a7III.
Best regards,
Alexander
You know, I was disappointed with the use of DSLR cameras. I want to understand: I haven't figured it out yet or the cameras are “not very good”?
I'll start at the beginning. I take pictures since childhood. It is clear, I shot on film Smena-2, Zenit-V, Lyubitel, Zenit-TTL ... There were shots of different quality, I had good luck as planned ...
I purchased a digital soap dish Lumix DMC FZ8. Then Lumix DMC FZ48. The pictures were excellent, even masterpieces (in my opinion)
And so I decided to replenish the arsenal of equipment. For I work at school and the advanced soap dish did not always satisfy. I bought a used one this year. on OLX -Canon 450D. Disappointment has no boundaries. Frames out of focus - landscapes, architecture, macro-super, portraits-good, but had to be modified by the editor ... Sold. Bought Nikon D3100 (well-used, 50000 mileage, but not in the run, look for success or failure)
And the same thing ... Sometimes, good, but I don't like the results anymore. Well, I think you need to look for other objectives ... And at this point I decided to write to you, since I have been reading your site from the very beginning of the “mirror” saga. I read the instructions of these cameras.
I'm going on a trip and take Lumix with me. (Nikon's battery turned out to be barely alive - 100 shots and ...) Alexey, I really like your site. I think you yourself understand why.
What's wrong, what should I do? Teach, calm ...
Perhaps the matter is in the adjustment (back-front) + open aperture. Perhaps you confuse focus with sharpness. For 3100 I won't say, for 450 in jpeg the picture is not very good - I tried it once, I don't shoot in jpeg anymore. It would be nice to see failure, it's not very clear. The focusing above mentioned above is pretty good.
There may be two reasons.
First, used fotik is a surprise, maybe with a defect.
The second, with a DSLR, is either a super photo (with the correct settings and lighting), or generally sucks (soap, overexposure, etc., etc.). The DSLR, unlike the compact camera and phone, does not tolerate errors, especially with focusing.
There are still a lot of reasons, but these two seem to me to be the main ones.
Another third option is possible - the habit of taking pictures from a soap dish. For a dozen years of filming on a soap box, it may well gain a foothold.
Many thanks to everyone, all over the world - benefit to the lover.
There is a link there, look, the opinion of the masters is important to me.
Be attentive at the very least. There are failures, there are few experiences. To teach and recommend, you should ask you about the tasks and goals that the camera should solve and pursue, as well as the budget. And I will immediately remind you that the "masterpiece" buttons have not yet been made,
I also took the d3100 after the soap dish, with novya, there was a noticeable difference in the picture. At first I clicked in the green zone, also mostly not bad, even the flash itself popped up on the case. Then he began to close the aperture and monitor the shutter speed. Can the lens bend? Try another one if possible - 35 / 1,8 DX.
I can’t be silent.
Valery, if I understand you correctly, did you choose the camera with his picture in your hands? And when you compared the picture with the camera, did you see a noticeable difference between them?
“At first I clicked in the green zone,” I heard that there are “red zones” in places of detention, I suppose there are “blue zones”, but I don't know what a “green zone” is. ”Even a flash on the case itself popped up.” And if not on business, then how does she behave with you? I think so, what does she care about how I shoot, what I shoot. Her business is to sit in the “shoe” quietly and not jump out. Covering the diaphragm, you watch the shutter speed! Do you have it, too, like a flash, pops up somewhere?
Vasily, who told you that clever (ornichit) colors? Spit in his face, he framed you.
The problem statement is still ...
Hello Herman. I am writing to you in order to dilute your balm with my fly in the ointment and try to stop the growth of your wings. Because with a large wingspan a lot of noise and dust rises. Your photos, in my humble opinion, are the end result of the usual a photo amateur, whose photo look has been formed since school years, but did not advance beyond the soap dish. You, Herman, like a huge number of photography lovers, do not pass by toads, spiders, mushrooms, bugs, and obligatory sunsets. All these similar plots are littered with Internet, and therefore, it is impossible to call them masterpieces. I saw you have a couple of interesting pictures with an unusual plot, but, Herman, be more modest ... You are offered to post photos on a photo stock. It seems to me that this is a mockery. Be vigilant, Herman.
On one of the resources, one smart person wrote: “not every frame should be taken, not every frame should be printed, not every frame should be shown.” Following this rule, I think there will be no debris in the camera, computer, and most importantly, in the head. And only then, perhaps, the growth of skill, and not of wings, will be felt.
And I want to take off ... But you can't jump higher than yourself, let alone flying.
I wish you, Herman, interesting plots, competent decisions, good lighting, your favorite camera, razor focus and ...
Indeed, there is a lot of noise and dust from you, Vasily.
“What” a person likes to shoot is not a subject of discussion at all. The question is “how” he does it. I also did not find any masterpieces in the one shown, but they a priori have nowhere to come from at this level of the camera. All the talk about what the master will remove for a tin can is in favor of the poor. I think that many people, coming across pictures from cameras of the xxxxD level on the Internet, have thought more than once: “If only it were taken with a good camera ...” I have no doubts that it makes sense for the author to pick up a decent crop with a properly selected lens calls.
In confirmation of your words, I can say that personally I do not know a single decent photographer who photographs at a tin can. For some reason, everyone I know has a very decent technique. The tool matters and it is sometimes very important. But it is rather of a fundamental nature, so to speak. From my own experience I can say that I have one amateur-level camera, which I really like with its colors. But it’s just very inconvenient to work with her. And it seems like a good shot and moment, and then because of flaws in the autofocus system, the shot material is sometimes sent to the basket. And this despite the fact that I use this camera precisely in those cases when rush and responsibility are not required
Of course, pictures that make sense to show to someone outside of a narrow circle of relatives (and relatives are different :), by and large start with FF cameras. At the same time, a good bundle of camera / lens is a kind of happy marriage and, accordingly, is not so common. Regarding autofocus, I think that adding an autofocus needle (especially for novice photographers) is a harmful thing. It is necessary when shooting protocol sessions and dynamic scenes, but in all other cases it is more correct to rely on the eyes and hands.
Well I do not know. I’ve been taking photos since the mid-70s, I got autofocus for the first time in 30 years. And now I can’t imagine how it could be otherwise. However, also with an automatic transmission
We have approximately the same experience. I keep three Canon autofocus fixes - mainly for the above cases. I consider one of them obligatory - 50 \ 1.4 USM; the rest were formed from cash surpluses, i.e. optional. I shoot 15-20% of the total number of shots on them, the rest is done by manuals.
ps Here, as they say, the trick is this. Or you shoot with autofocus using one focusing point, which, for obvious reasons, is not always convenient. Or you shoot several at a time, but here you need a high degree of professionalism and a very quick consideration - what exactly is he aiming at and pressing the shutter instantly until the focus has left somewhere else. This skill is not developed when filming 1-2 times a week and is quickly lost during breaks. Why such training of eyes, brain and hands is needed for people who are not engaged in bombing or reporting - I do not quite understand ...
Rather, it's a matter of the chosen genre .. (family photos, travel) + I'm not a professional. So one point is enough for me (actually a group of 9 or 21 in AF-C mode). Yes, this is not always convenient, so I want a touch screen to quickly change the focus point: you look through the viewfinder and use your finger on the screen ... As in the A7. And I don’t use the auto, 3D modes (in nikon's terminology), to be honest, precisely for the reasons indicated by you. But what is, for me, is better than manual focus. This was what was discussed.
For my taste, when shooting with autofocus, the photographer becomes overly dependent on technology, and, accordingly, is forced to pay less attention to what can be called the creative component of the process. Of course, with a sufficient level of professionalism, you can do everything, but for this, as I wrote above, you need to shoot almost daily (in order to be in the appropriate form).
Or maybe the other way around: automation allows you to give part of the work to technology, and to focus more on the creative component?
I will add - when focusing on one point in manual mode, it is easier to adjust the composition of the frame. In the sense of right-left, up-down; on closed diaphragms, problems, as a rule, do not arise.
On the contrary, one would agree with this if autofocus works perfectly. Do you know a lot of lenses that you can rely on in this sense with absolute certainty?
These or those risks were, are and will (are) always, you just need to manage them. For example, take several shots in burst mode. In general, the lenses that I own are not satisfactory. Although only one of them is "native" systemic.
There are a couple more practical points here. Firstly, in difficult light, I always turn off autofocus - otherwise, unpleasant surprises at the exit are guaranteed. Secondly, when shooting with high-aperture fixes at open apertures, it can be important to determine what you want to have in the field of focus: near, middle or (sometimes) even a distant shot. No autofocus for a photographer will solve this purely artistic problem.
It is difficult to disagree with you here. On the other hand, there is the MA mode. But I've used it as many times as I have fingers on one hand. And, of course, the viewfinder should be good enough for manual focusing. On Pentacon 6 it was great to focus through the “mine”, as if you were watching TV ..
Autofocus is good.
And you don't need to compare it with automatic transmissions, which are also very different. Automatic transmissions of the first half of the 44s and now are two different things. It is convenient to turn manual lenses with your hands when it is the 40th Helios, and when the XNUMXth is already more difficult, especially from the hands, especially in the dark and even when there is a decent side wind. AF is convenience and saved energy. The Nikkor, Sigma and Tokin screwdrivers focus quickly and accurately. Not all, but the vast majority, especially on older FF cameras.
The point is not that autofocus is bad, but that in many cases it is unnecessary, and in some it is harmful. Accordingly, the habit of shooting everything with autofocus is hardly to be welcomed. Anything shorter than 35 mm can be shot on a scale, and everything longer than 100 mm is much more reliable to aim manually. It turns out that autofocus (except for the sessions and dynamics listed above) is needed for those who are too lazy to aim manually with a conventional fifty dollars in half-length portraits. Whether this pleasure is worth the extra money, everyone decides for himself ...
Automatic transmission is still different. The question is not this, but the fact that you do not need to switch manually :)
Andrey, you have your own opinion. I have mine. I take it off my hands and often in the dark. I choose the manual focus point and the af is moved on.
Of course, I express nothing more than my opinion. Just above a colleague, SV complained about a marriage related to the work of autofocus. In my experience, such a marriage with manual focusing is many times less.
Sorry, a slip of the tongue .. Of course ARKADY.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/d7tAawiaFR2Mb6aW7
This is Lumix FZ8
Great photo. And they are truly masterpieces, not just in your opinion. Truly modesty is the sister of talent. Try placing it on stocks. I am sure that the demand will be very high
Thank you, balm !!!
No, I am not offended by anyone. I wrote to Arkady in general, and if someone could not remain silent, then he showed himself, and this makes me feel good so far. Now I breathe any opinion, even if there is little bile and kindness ... I'm an amateur, I shoot for myself, for the soul, so to speak. But I want to keep up with the quality. Thanks, in any case.
You have definitely outgrown the soap dish. Among the examples given, there are many where technology limits the quality - conceived for a camera of a more decent level, but filled with what is.
Or maybe you look towards mirrorless cameras? Of course, they are even used, usually more expensive; but often smaller / lighter, but better in terms of features.
Sometimes there are pleasant exceptions. For example, the new Sony A7 fullframe BZK (mark1) costs less than 1000USD.
Cool photos! I am an amateur, but I really liked it. I had similar problems. I bought a canon 700 and at first there were a lot of disappointments. Now it’s enough, too, but I’ve already started to feel the camera and I understand that I don’t use its capabilities in many ways, I often hurry, I am often too lazy to analyze my mistakes. But in general, the quality of my photos for almost a year of infrequent practice has grown markedly. Recently I tried the old Soviet Helios, which I got on the occasion (apparently a hundred times reassembled and pulled together for some reason with a clamp) and received a lot of pleasure from the process. What I wish you.
P. S. I do not see a link to the photo from Canon 450 at point blank range. And it would be interesting to see.
Thank you, the wings are growing.
What did you shoot with the 450D? - This is not the weakest of the Canon crop ...
Here I have not yet shown the results of shooting at 450D. No, I liked a lot.
Practice is needed more, I realized that.
I'm not talking about the results, but about what kind of lens was shot.
Arkady, good afternoon!
Thank you for your camera reviews and articles!
I used to film (FED and Pentagon (Japan)).
In 2009 I bought a Panasonic Lumix FZ-28 - there was a need for a lightweight, compact, mobile superzoom camera for every day. I like the camera. Although I understand that this is not a camera for you :)). Now I look after the Kenon 77D according to your recommendations and reviews (it seems to me that it is still better than the Canon 800D and the Nikon 5600) Or even better older versions of the Nikon D90 (I had a chance to shoot, I LIKED it! But it is too big for every day.) Such as 7200 or 7500 (I held it in my hands in the store - it seems to me that you don't vilify it for a long time)…. The eternal question of Kenon or Nikon… I'm also interested in compactness, photo and video quality. All the same, I understand that he is better than my Lumix. Please advise which lens for the Kenon 77D is better to buy, or for a start you can use Kitovsky 18-55. Well, in principle, which system is better to buy Kenon or Nikon? (I read a lot of information from you about this, but I can’t completely decide ... this is perhaps like a choice between BMW and Mercedes for motorists).
And please tell me more about Lumix - he has an old battery since 2009.
Already out of production and no originals. They offer analogues on the Internet. But the native battery has an output voltage of 7,2 V, and the analogs have 7,4 V. It somehow confuses this excess of power of 0,2 V, so that nothing in Lyumiks burns out! Or you can put such an analogy with excess food in Lumix and calmly use them until you buy, for example, Kenon, well, then use two in parallel or let the children take pictures to Lumix.
Thank you!
Exceeding the voltage up to 1.5 times usually passes without consequences. If 0.2 V is exceeded, the battery charge will most likely be displayed incorrectly. Which is better than Nikon or Canon, or maybe Sony? No answer. BMW-Mercedes is still flowers) If you already have or want to shoot with Soviet lenses, take Canon.
Thank you Michael!
I heard that there is a power controller at the input of Lumix (and probably other cameras), which limits (within reasonable limits) the incoming supply voltage. Of course there is a risk, I would not want to kill the cool (in my opinion) Lumix camera ... I really like it :) When I bought it, I first wanted to take the Canon S5 IS (it was from a friend), but at that time they were already discontinued. Found a worthy replacement for the FZ28. Now an acquaintance is shooting with Lumix FZ1000. Except for all the connections to Wi-Fi and other bells and whistles, my FZ28 loses to the FZ1000 in terms of picture quality. I'm going to shoot everything: landscape, portrait, architecture, macro, nature, children, parties, sports, animals.
If I could add such an ultrazoom as in Lumix in a DSLR, it would be great at the same time, and at the same time a wide angle and aperture, and fit it all into one lens !!! Probably there is such a thing, but it is quite expensive, and you also want compactness and light weight, and not carry a bunch of optics with you. Well, somehow. I see. I want a lot ... :)
When I bought FZ28, I also re-read a lot of material, but somehow it was easier to decide. Then I thought about buying a Nikon D90 and a Nikkor 16-80 2,8 lens, but it somehow didn’t work out. Now his older brother has released 7500, but somehow, as in the case of the D90, they are confused by the size and weight, including according to the reviews of the owners of the D90.
Yes, I also thought about shooting with Soviet lenses. And after reading the reviews, I realized that it is easier to choose a Soviet lens for Canon than for Nikon. Even for reasons of economy - native Canon lenses cost a certain amount of money, and used Soviet lenses can be found cheaper and not of poor quality. So it turns out that perhaps Canon will be more universal.
I heard from some people that a mirrorless camera is generally better and that you can also put Soviet optics 42 on it, and it is easy for a child to hold and they are compact. But, somehow I am tormented by vague doubts about these mirrorless cameras, and they are more expensive than the aforementioned cameras that I am considering for purchase. Today I am an amateur and I cannot say that I am advanced. But I also don’t want a soap box, in which I can’t make adjustments for shooting in some interesting situation. For example, I like to play with the sun shining through the foliage, when beautiful rays are obtained in the picture with a closed aperture, fast shutter speed and low ISO. Well, all sorts of things. Once (about 20 years ago) on a film Pentagon 50 1: 2,8 I shot beautiful "macro" if you can call them that (with a non-macro lens) red fly agarics in green grass (Fuji film 200) and the sunsets were great without a tripod ... So it turns out that the hands are something that they remember :) and want to configure the camera themselves. but to be honest, not always in the manual in the evening (twilight) on the FZ28, good pictures are obtained, well, I am already attributing this to the skills of a photographer. As soon as I have not taken off for a long time, my instinct is lost, until you fill your hand again. Probably it's just me.
Thanks again! And good photos! :)
Now I would take the BZK, and from the BZK for my tasks (shooting people) - sony a6500 / a7. In the part of the UPC, I am personally confused only by the possible lags of the viewfinder and the mileage on one charge, i.e. the need to immediately take extra. batteries or powerbank if you go anywhere. On the other hand, you can charge by usb, including in the car
Thank you, SV!
I will find out more about the UPC in the reviews, this is a new round in the evolution of cameras. It might be better. ... Until I figure it out, it is difficult to make a decision. Especially if this is a new topic (BZK).
Have a nice photo!
Do not pay attention to the voltage difference 7,2-7,4. There are in any case two conventional lithium cans of 3,7 × 2 = 7.4 volts ('Nominal Voltage'), with an operating range of 3,0-4,2V per can. The 'unusual' lithium ones already differ significantly this: LiFePo - 3,2 × 2 = 6.4 volts, and 3,85 × 2 = 7,7 volts. But the device may not 'like' someone else's controller, so you need to check.
PS The first device - Panasonic FZ50 (since 2007, alive to this day), and since 2011 got hooked on Nikon)
Thanks a lot, BB!
Why are you hooked on Nikon, and not on Canon? This is all subjective, but if you can please write your vision.
Thank you.